VOLUMES
1- 4
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of
World Cities
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of
World Cities VOLUME
1
Atlanta, Georgia to Denver, Colorado
Edited by Jill Copolla and Susan Bevan Gall
J U N I O R WO R L D M A R K E N C Y C L O P E D I A O F W O R L D C I T I E S
U•X•L Staff Allison McNeill, U•X•L Senior Editor Carol DeKane Nagel, U•X•L Managing Editor Thomas L. Romig, U•X•L Publisher Dorothy Maki, Manufacturing Manager Evi Seoud, Assistant Production Manager Rita Wimberley, Senior Buyer Pamela A.E. Galbreath, Art Director This publication is a creative work copyrighted by U•X•L and fully protected by all applicable copyright laws, as well as by misappropriation, trade secret, unfair competition, and other applicable laws. The authors and editors of this work have added value to the underlying factual material herein through one or more of the following: unique and original selection, coordination, expression, arrangement, and classification of the information. All rights to this publication will be vigorously defended. Copyright © 2000 U•X•L An imprint of the Gale Group All rights reserved including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form.
Printed in United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Cover photos (top to bottom): Paris, France: Louvre (EPD/Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp) Monrovia, Liberia: Redemption Day Celebration (EPD/Homer Sykes; Woodfin Camp) Tokyo, Japan: Kids with skateboards (EPD/Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp) Lima, Peru: Market (EPD/Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp) Washington, DC: Lincoln Memorial (EPD/Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp)
Susan Bevan Gall and Jill Marie Coppola, Editors Timothy L. Gall, Executive Editor Mary Francis Sugar, Eleftherios E. Netos, Jennifer Wallace, James C. Woodring, Associate Editors Bridgette M. Nadzam, Graphics and Page Layout Gregory M. Hurst, Editorial Assistant Magellan Geographix, Cartographers
Contributors Olufemi A. Akinola, Ph.D. W.E.B. DuBois Institute, Harvard University Cynthia Andrews. Researcher/Writer, Suttons Bay, Michigan Mike Cikraji. Researcher/Writer, Bay Village, Ohio Patricia Hale. Researcher/Writer, West Hartford, Connecticut Bruce Heilman. University of Dar es Salaam, Tanzania Jim Henry. Researcher/Writer, Chicago, Illinois William Hodgson. Researcher/Writer, Vancouver, British Columbia Dave Hribar. Researcher/Writer, Avon Lake, Ohio Ignacio Lobos. Journalist, Honolulu, Hawaii Deryck O. Lodrick, Ph.D. Visiting Scholar, Center for South Asian Studies, University of California, Berkeley Lupa Ramadhani. University of Dar es Salaam, Tanzania Gail Rosewater. Researcher/Writer, Cleveland, Ohio Carmen Urdaneta, M.A. Researcher/Writer, Boston, Massachusetts Jeffrey Vance. Researcher/Writer, Brighton, Massachusetts Rosalie Wieder. Researcher/Writer, Cleveland, Ohio Steven Wolinetz, Ph.D. Memorial University, St. John’s Newfoundland
CONTENTS C I T Y F I N D E R TA B L E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . viii R E A D E R ’S G U I D E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix ATLANTA, GEORGIA ................................................................ 1 B A N G K O K , T H A I L A N D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 B E I J I N G , C H I N A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 B E R L I N , G E R M A N Y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 B O S T O N , M A S S A C H U S E T T S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 B R U S S E L S , B E L G I U M . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 B U E N O S A I R E S , A R G E N T I N A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 C A I R O , E G Y P T . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 C A R A C A S , V E N E Z U E L A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 C H I C A G O , I L L I N O I S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 C L E V E L A N D , O H I O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 D A L L A S , T E X A S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 D E N V E R, C O L O R A D O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 G L O S S A R Y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
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C I T Y F I N D E R TA B L E Volume number appears in brackets []
Toronto, Ontario .......................[4]151 Vancouver, British Columbia......[4]169
Africa
Mexico
Cairo, Egypt .............................[1]115 Johannesburg, South Africa ......[2]123 Lagos, Nigeria ...........................[2]139 Monrovia, Liberia........................[3]69 Nairobi, Kenya ..........................[3]115
Mexico City, Mexico....................[3]19
United States Atlanta, Georgia ...........................[1]1 Boston, Massachusetts .................[1]65 Chicago, Illinois ........................[1]145 Cleveland, Ohio ........................[1]161 Dallas, Texas .............................[1]177 Denver, Colorado.......................[1]191 Detroit, Michigan ..........................[2]1 Honolulu, Hawaii ........................[2]39 Houston, Texas ............................[2]57 Indianapolis, Indiana ..................[2]77 Los Angeles, California ..............[2]189 Miami, Florida.............................[3]37 Minneapolis, Minnesota .............[3]53 Nashville, Tennessee ..................[3]137 New Orleans, Louisiana.............[3]153 New York, New York ................[3]173 Phoenix, Arizona .........................[4]19 Philadelphia, Pennsylvania .............[4]1 San Francisco, California .............[4]85 Seattle, Washington....................[4]101 Washington, D.C..........................[4]18
Asia Bangkok, Thailand ......................[1]17 Beijing, China ..............................[1]33 Hong Kong, China.......................[2]21 Istanbul, Turkey ..........................[2]93 Jerusalem, Israel.........................[2]107 Manila, Philippines .......................[3]1 Mumbai (Bombay), India.............[3]99 Sydney, Australia .......................[4]117 Tokyo, Japan ............................[4]133
Europe Berlin, Germany...........................[1]49 Brussels, Belgium ........................[1]83 Istanbul, Turkey...........................[2]93 London, United Kingdom .........[2]169 Madrid, Spain ...........................[2]205 Paris, France ..............................[3]195 Prague, Czech Republic ...............[4]35 Rome, Italy ..................................[4]63
South America Buenos Aires, Argentina...............[1]97 Caracas, Venezuela ...................[1]131 Lima, Peru ................................[2]155 Rio de Janeiro, Brazil ..................[4]49
North America Canada Montréal, Québec .......................[3]83
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R E A D E R ’S G U I D E this Reader’s Guide, all of whom offered substantive insights that were instrumental to the creation of this work. The editors are extremely grateful for the time and effort these distinguished reviewers devoted to improving the quality of this work. Sixteen researchers, many of whom live in the city they profiled, are listed on the staff page. Their well-researched profiles give users of Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities an opportunity to compare the history and contemporary life in 50 of the world’s greatest cities—from the ancient cities of Cairo, Egypt and Istanbul, Turkey, to the fast-growing modern metropolitan communities of Lagos, Nigeria; Sydney, Australia; and Seattle, Washington.
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities presents profiles of 50 major cities from around the world, arranged alphabetically in four volumes. Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities is a new reference work organized under the Worldmark design. The Worldmark design assembles facts and data about each city in a common structure. Every profile contains a map, showing the city and its location. The challenging task of selecting the cities to be profiled in this first edition of Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities was accomplished with input from librarian advisors. From a list of over 100 candidate cities, 50 were selected to represent the continents and cultures of the world, with an emphasis on cities of the United States. Twenty-five cities from North America (including 21 U.S. cities) are profiled, 9 cities from Asia, 7 cities from Europe, 5 cities from Africa, and 4 from South America fill the four volumes. Profiles present text and graphical elements, including photographs, with the needs and interests of student researchers in mind. Recognition must be given to the many tourist bureaus, convention centers, city government press offices, and graphic agencies that contributed the data and photographs that comprise this encyclopedia. This edition also benefits from the work of the reviewers listed at the end of
Sources Due to the broad scope of this encyclopedia many sources were consulted in compiling the information and statistics presented in these volumes. Of primary importance were the official web sites posted by many of the cities’ government offices and tourist/convention bureaus on the World Wide Web. Also instrumental in the development of this publication was the web site of the U.S. Bureau of the Census, available at http://www.census.gov/. Finally, many fact sheets, booklets, and statistical abstracts were used to update
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READER’S GUIDE data not collected by federal or city governments. Profile Features The structure of the Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities entries—22 numbered headings—allows students to compare two or more cities in a variety of ways. Each city profile begins with the city name, state or province (where applicable), country, and continent. A city fact box provides information including dates founded and incorporated, city location, official city motto and flower, time zone, ethnic composition, city elevation, latitude and longitude, coastline (where applicable), climate information, annual mean temperature, seasonal average snowfall (where applicable), average annual precipitation, form of government, system of weights and measures used, monetary units, telephone area codes, and city postal codes. Where available, a picture of both the city seal and the city flag, with description, appear. With regard to the time zone, the standard time is given by time zone in relation to Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). The world is divided into 24 time zones, each one hour apart. The Greenwich meridian, which is 0 degrees, passes through Greenwich, England, a suburb of London. Greenwich is at the center of the initial time zone, known as Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). All times given are converted from noon in this zone. The time reported for the city is the official time zone. Also provided in each article is a Population Profile box comparing the city proper with its greater metropolitan
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area, including suburbs (where available), and lists facts such as population, racial breakdown, and nicknames. Profiles also include a City Fact Comparison box, comparing daily costs of visiting the city with costs for visiting representative cities elsewhere in the world (Cairo, Egypt; Rome, Italy; and Beijing, China). City maps, locator maps, and photos complement the entries. The body of each city’s profile is arranged in 22 numbered headings as follows: 1
INTRODUCTION. The city’s location
is described. City features are outlined, sometimes citing key facts from city history and major attractions. 2
GETTING THERE. Information is pro-
vided on major highways offering access into and around the city, as well as information on bus and railroad service, airports, and shipping. 3
GETTING AROUND. Information is
outlined on means of transportation within a city, including bus and commuter rail service; some entries include transportation modes that will be less familiar to many student researchers, such as the three-wheeled tuk-tuk of Bangkok, Thailand. Both commuter and sightseeing transportation methods are included. 4
PEOPLE. A population count is pro-
vided for the city proper and its metropolitan area, along with an ethnic/racial breakdown of the populace. For many cities, population growth patterns, languages, and religions are also discussed 5 NEIGHBORHOODS. Location, characteristics, and attractions of city historic
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
READER’S GUIDE and ethnic neighborhoods, and business and cultural districts are described. 6 HISTORY. City history is detailed from its founding to the present. 7
GOVERNMENT. Style of government
is described, and elected offices are listed, along with a description of each office and length of an elected term. 8 PUBLIC SAFETY. Police, fire, and ambulatory services are outlined, as well as any special city safety projects. Crime rate statistics are also listed. 9 ECONOMY. This section presents the key elements of the economy. Major industries and employment figures are also summarized.
Topography, climate, and flora and fauna are described, as well as any environmental concerns, programs, or clean-up efforts. 10
ENVIRONMENT.
11 SHOPPING. Popular shopping districts and venues are described, as well as any specialty items for which the city is renowned. 12 EDUCATION. Information about public education and key universities and technical institutes is detailed. 13 HEALTH CARE. Hospitals and other health services are described. Alternative or non-Western health care practices are described in some city profiles. 14
MEDIA. City newspapers, magazines,
television, and radio stations are listed. Where applicable, government influence on media is discussed.
15 SPORTS. Professional and amateur sports—from auto racing and rodeo to cricket and baseball—sports venues, and championships held are listed. Annual sporting events, major international tournaments, and popular recreational sports are also described. 16 PARKS AND RECREATION. Popular recreational activities and city pastimes, from strolling in a city park to playing polo, and the venues where they can be enjoyed, are detailed. 17 PERFORMING ARTS. Performing arts offered in the city are described, as well as the theaters and performing arts halls where they are offered. Notable annual events are listed. 18 LIBRARIES AND MUSEUMS. Notable libraries and descriptions of their holdings are described. Major museums, with information about their collections, are listed. 19
TOURISM. The importance of tourism
to the city is summarized, along with factors affecting the tourism industry. Key tourist attractions are listed. 20
HOLIDAYS AND FESTIVALS. Annu-
ally celebrated holidays and events are listed. 21
F A M O U S C I T I Z E N S . Famous peo-
ple who were born or lived in the city are listed, along with birth and death dates and short biographical descriptions. Bibliographic listings are provided at the end of each profile as a guide for accessing further information. Included are Web sites, 22
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
FOR
FURTHER
STUDY.
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READER’S GUIDE government offices, tourist and convention bureaus, major city publications, and books about the city and its history. Because some terms used in this encyclopedia will be new to students, each volume includes a glossary. A keyword index to all four volumes appears in Volume 4. Acknowledgments The editors are indebted to the following reviewers, without whom Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities would not have been possible. The individuals listed below were consulted on the content and structure of this encyclopedia. Their insights, opinions, and suggestions led to many enhancements and improvements in the presentation of the material. Ken Cornwell, Library Media Specialist, Northeast High School, Lincoln, Nebraska
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Cindy Doll, Librarian, Columbus Metropolitan Library, Columbus, Ohio Marilyn Eanes, School Library Media Specialist, Hopewell Middle School, Round Rock, Texas Jane Thomas, Library Manager, McNeil High School, Austin, Texas Glenda Willnerd, School Librarian, Lincoln High School, Lincoln, Nebraska Comments and Suggestions We welcome your comments on the Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities, as well as your suggestions for cities to be included in future editions. Please write: Editors, Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities, U•X•L, 27500 Drake Road, Farmington Hills, Michigan 48331– 3535; call toll-free: 1-800-877-4253; or send e-mail via www.galegroup.com.
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Atlanta Atlanta, Georgia, United States of America, North America Founded: 1837; Incorporated: 1847 Location: Northwestern Georgia, United States, North America Motto: “Wisdom, justice, and moderation” (state motto) Flag: City seal in yellow on blue field. Flower: Cherokee rose (state flower) Time Zone: 7 AM Eastern Standard Time (EST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: White 30%, Black 67.1%, Other 2.9% Elevation: 320 m (1,050 ft) Latitude and Longitude: 33º74'N, 84º38'W Coastline: None Climate: Moderate temperatures, with highly changeable weather patterns; natural barriers protect the city from very severe cold; snowfall is infrequent. Annual Mean Temperature: 17.9ºC (64.2ºF); January 5.8ºC (42.4ºF); July 25.5ºC (78.0ºF) Seasonal Average Snowfall: 5 cm (2 in); Average Annual Precipitation (total of rainfall and melted snow): 123.4 cm (48.6 in) Government: Mayor-council Weights and Measures: Standard U.S. Monetary Units: Standard U.S. Telephone Area Codes: 404, 678, 770 Postal Codes: 30301–94, 31101–56
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Introduction
Originating as a rail terminus in the nineteenth century and becoming an airline hub in the twentieth, Atlanta is a “city on the move” in more ways than one. Located in northwestern Georgia, Atlanta combines the local color of its Southern heritage with the progressive spirit that enabled it to rebuild from the fires of war, triumph over racial intolerance, and become a thriving, cosmopolitan business and cultural center. The city’s attractions were spotlighted when it won the coveted honor of hosting the 1996 Olympic Games, which provided yet another opportunity for Atlanta to display its
energy and its courage in overcoming adversity, when the Games were completed as planned in spite of the bombings in Centennial Olympic Park. 2
Getting There
Atlanta is the capital of Georgia and its largest city, as well as the seat of Fulton County. It is located south of the Appalachian Mountains in northwestern Georgia. Highways North-south highways providing access to Atlanta include I-85, which connects the city to Greenville, South
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Atlanta
Atlanta Population Profile City Proper Population: 396,000 Area: 341.4 sq km (131.8 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 30% white; 67.1% black; 2.9% other Nicknames: City of Trees, Capital of the New South
Metropolitan Area Population: 2,689,000 Area: 15,866 sq km (6,126 sq mi) World population rank1: 113 Percentage of total US population2: 1% Average yearly growth rate: 0.7% Ethnic composition: 71.4% white; 25.8% black; and 2.6% Asian/Pacific Islander ——— 1. The Atlanta metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the total population of the United States living in the Atlanta metropolitan area.
Carolina; Charlotte, North Carolina; and Montgomery, Alabama; and I-75, which extends northward to Chattanooga and Knoxville, Tennessee, and south to Florida. The major east-west expressway is I-20 (the West Expressway), which leads to Birmingham, Alabama; Jackson, Mississippi; and westward to Texas and beyond. All of the preceding interstate highways intersect with I-285, known locally as “the Perimeter,” which rings the city. Bus and Railroad Service Greyhound offers bus service to Atlanta. While slower than other modes of travel, it provides a unique way to experience the local color of the South.
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The Amtrak-operated Crescent, running north-south, connects Atlanta with points along the eastern seaboard. Airports As one of the nation’s major airline hubs, Hartsfield International Airport, located about 16 kilometers (10 miles) outside downtown Atlanta, is one of the world’s busiest airports, carrying 68 million passengers per year and providing nonstop service to 186 cities in the United States. The airport is home to Delta Airlines, which offers more than 500 flights a day from Hartsfield. A new concourse—the nation’s largest— opened in 1994 for international travel, and further major improvements were made the following year, including a new central atrium linking the major terminals. Shipping Although it is an inland city, Atlanta is a thriving shipping center, with Hartsfield International Airport accounting for the largest volume of goods shipped. A Foreign Trade Zone near the airport makes Atlanta an especially attractive destination for international shippers. The city is also served by the CSX and Norfolk Southern rail lines, as well as hundreds of motor freight carriers. 3
Getting Around
Rather than a grid pattern, Atlanta was originally laid out with its streets converging on a central downtown area (Five Points). The city’s growth has
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Atlanta
complicated this pattern with the addition of new streets—several dozen of which include the name “Peachtree”— and interstate highways cutting through the city. For visitors (and even, at times, natives), navigating the city’s streets can be a challenge.
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Bus and commuter rail service Atlanta boasts one of the nation’s cutting-edge rapid transit systems, known as MARTA (Metropolitan Atlanta Rapid Transit Authority). The system operates 240 electric rail cars
3
Atlanta
Atlanta skyline. (Timothy Eagan: Woodfin Camp)
over 62.7 kilometers (39 miles) of track. Lines running north-south and eastwest converge at the Five Points Station in the heart of the city. Bus service is coordinated with the rapid-transit schedule; some 150 bus routes cover a total of 2,413 kilometers (1,500 miles). Sightseeing Guided sightseeing tours are offered by several tour lines. A variety of specialty tours are offered as well, including a walking tour sponsored by the Atlanta Preservation Center, a tour of the Fox Theatre District, the Historic Downtown Tour focusing on architecture, the Sweet Auburn/MLK District
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Tour focusing on black history, and a tour of the neighborhood that served as the setting for the play and film Driving Miss Daisy. 4
People
In 1990, the population of Atlanta was 394,000, with the following racial composition: 30 percent white and 67.1 percent black, with other groups each accounting for percentages of less than one percent. Hispanics (an ethnic rather than a racial designation) accounted for 1.9 percent of the population. The 1994 population estimate was 396,000. The population of the Atlanta Primary Metropolitan Statistical
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Atlanta Area was estimated at 3,627,184 as of 1997. The region’s racial composition was listed by the U.S. Census Bureau in 1996 as 71.4 percent white; 25.8 percent black; and 2.6 percent Asian/ Pacific Islander. Hispanics accounted for three percent of the metropolitan area population. 5
Neighborhoods
Downtown Atlanta is the city’s business and financial center. Its landmarks include the Peachtree Center hotel, convention, and office complex; the Underground Atlanta shopping facility; Georgia State University; Centennial Olympic Park (developed for the 1996 Olympics); the Georgia World Congress Center; and the Georgia Dome athletic facility. The traditionally black neighborhood of Sweet Auburn, home of Martin Luther King, Jr., draws large numbers of visitors every year. The National Park Service has accorded park status to the district in honor of Dr. King, whose boyhood home and church are located here. The Midtown area, north of downtown, is home to some of Atlanta’s bestknown cultural institutions, including the renowned Fox Theatre, Woodruff Arts Center, where the Atlanta Symphony performs, the Hugh Museum of Art, and the Alliance Theatre. Also located here are Piedmont Park and the Atlanta Botanical Garden. Buckhead is an upscale district located about ten kilometers (six miles)
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
north of downtown Atlanta, home to elegant mansions, exclusive shops and boutiques, and fine restaurants. The Atlanta History Center is located here. The Virginia-Highland neighborhood is Atlanta’s Greenwich Village, featuring a colorful mix of bookstores, sidewalk cafes, art galleries, bistros, ethnic restaurants, and eclectic shops that draw the culturally sophisticated to this part of town. Against a gracious setting that includes a number of Victorian homes, Little Five Points serves as a center for youthful Generation X- and Y-ers to display the latest in offbeat youth culture trends. The suburb of Decatur, founded in 1823, is known for its many festivals and other annual events, as well as the impressive Farmers Market. 6
History
Atlanta’s origin as a railroad settlement was evident in its original name— Terminus—when founded as a village in 1837. It was to this spot that the Western & Atlantic railroad was to run southward from the Tennessee state line, and from here that it would connect with other parts of the state. Reinforcing the white settlers’ hold on the area was an edict forcing 17,000 Cherokee and Creek Indians hundreds of miles westward, on the route that became known as the “Trail of Tears.” The town was renamed Marthasville in 1843, Atlanta two years later, and incorporated in 1848. By the start of the
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Atlanta cal center during the conflict, a fact that also made it an attractive target for Union forces. In the summer of 1864 Confederate forces under the command of General William Tecumseh Sherman laid siege to the city, which was first occupied and then virtually burned to the ground by Union troops. Military occupation by Union soldiers continued until 1876, but the city began energetically rebuilding. The railroads were repaired, and new homes, businesses, and cultural and educational institutions sprang up. In 1877 Atlanta became the permanent capital of Georgia; in 1888 it adopted as its official symbol a phoenix rising from the ashes, as the city itself had done. In the last two decades of the twentieth century, the city’s population more than doubled, to 90,000.
The Phoenix was adopted as the symbol of Atlanta after the Civil War. (Al Stephenson: Woodfin Camp)
Civil War (1861–65), Atlanta was a bustling commercial center. In 1861, after vigorous public debate, Atlanta decided to become one of the 11 states seceding from the Union over the issue of slavery, even making a bid to become the capital of the Confederacy—an honor that ultimately went to Richmond, Virginia. The rail links that had allowed the city to rise to prominence before the war made it a vital supply depot and medi-
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The city continued its rapid growth in the early twentieth century, its population reaching 155,000 by 1910 and continuing to rise in spite of a second catastrophic fire in 1917. The city’s black population grew rapidly, and the early years of the century were marred by the racial intolerance common throughout the South. In 1900 Atlanta professor W. E. B. du Bois founded the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People (NAACP), still the nation’s leading advocacy institution for blacks. Following race riots in the early 1900s, the black business community formed its own successful enclave on Auburn Street, where it thrived. Eventually, Atlanta became a center of black higher education, characterized by long-time mayor William
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Atlanta
City Fact Comparison Atlanta (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
2,689,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1837
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$93
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$36
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$22
$14
$15
$16
$131
$173
$246
$207
1
13
20
11
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
Total daily costs (hotel, meals, incidentals) Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
Atlanta Journal- Akhbar El Yom/ Constitution Al Akhbar 303,698
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1868
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
Hartsfield as a city “too busy to hate.” With the rise to prominence of Martin Luther King, Jr., Atlanta became a hub of the Civil Rights movement of the 1960s. Atlanta, begun as a rail terminus, continued its tradition of transportation leadership with the completion of its first airport in 1929 and its rapid rise to become one of the nation’s major air transport centers. Improved facilities followed in rapid succession in 1961, 1977, and 1980, the year the new Hartsfield International Airport opened. “Whether you’re going to heaven or
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
hell,” it has been said, “you’ll have to change planes in Atlanta.” In the post-war decades Atlanta has become an increasingly cosmopolitan city, drawing a growing number of international travelers with such facilities as a 4,500-seat civic center, a 16,000-seat coliseum, and a 232,250square-meter (two-and-a-half-millionsquare-foot) convention center. The city acquired three major-league sports teams in the 1960s. In 1988, Atlanta gained international attention when it hosted the Democratic National Convention. The global spotlight shone even more brightly on the city in the
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Atlanta 1990s, as it prepared for the 1996 Olympics, transforming its landscape with the construction of the Olympic Village. The Games drew 11,000 athletes from 197 different countries—a record for the modern Olympics. They were marred by a bombing in Centennial Olympic Park that killed two people and injured more than 100, but the Games went on as scheduled. Crowds soon flocked back to the park, and the focus returned to the athletes themselves, whose triumphs ultimately provided the main drama of the Games and left the city with indelible positive images of the long-planned event. 7
Government
Atlanta’s municipal government vests executive power in its mayor; the legislative function is carried out by an 18-member council, whose members are elected both by individual districts and citywide. Atlanta is also the capital of Georgia and home to its 56-member state senate and 180-member house of representatives and its governor. 8
Public Safety
With more than 2,300 employees, the Atlanta Police Department is Georgia’s largest law enforcement agency. It has declared as its major public safety priorities youth-related crime, domestic violence, and the perception of crime in Atlanta. In 1995, violent crimes reported to police (per 100,000 population) totaled 3,646 and included 45 murders, 109 rapes, 1,300 robberies, and 2,191 aggra-
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vated assaults. Property crimes totaled 13,421 and included 2,892 burglaries, 8,463 cases of larceny/theft, and 2,065 motor vehicle thefts. 9
Economy
Atlanta has a thriving economy and is known for its pro-business climate, the result of a combination of factors, including its excellent infrastructure and status as an airline hub, and the welcoming attitude of the city and its residents toward outsiders. Major corporations headquartered in Atlanta include BellSouth Corporation, Coca-Cola, the United Parcel System, Delta Air Lines, Pacific Corporation, and Home Depot. In addition, several hundred of the nation’s top companies have branch offices in Atlanta. Atlanta’s most famous businessman is broadcasting mogul Ted Turner, founder of the Cable News Network (CNN) and owner of the Atlanta Braves and Atlanta Hawks sports teams. 10
Environment
For a major urban area, Atlanta has an unusual degree of tree cover, and the city works hard to keep it that way. A government permit is required to cut down a tree, and all trees that are removed must be replaced by a variety of shade trees. Trees Atlanta, a nonprofit organization dedicated to tree conservation, planted more than 12,000 trees in the 1990s.
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Atlanta antique stores (for which Bennett Street is known), and galleries, as well as two major shopping malls, both located at the intersection of Peachtree and Lenox roads. Attracting 14 million visitors annually, Lenox Square is Atlanta’s oldest and largest shopping mall. It is anchored by major retailers, including Neiman Marcus, Macy’s, and Atlantabased Rich’s, and boasts some 200 specialty stores of all kinds. Nearby is the upscale Phipps Plaza, home to Lord & Taylor and Saks Fifth Avenue, as well as such famous brand name stores as Tiffany and Gucci. Other popular malls in the Atlanta area include Perimeter and the Galleria. Stone Mountain Village, just outside Stone Mountain Park, features antiques, crafts, and collectibles in an old-time village setting with historic buildings. 12 Stairway descending to Underground Atlanta, one of the city’s most famous shopping centers. (S. Moore: Woodfin Camp)
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Shopping
Atlanta is considered the shopping capital of the southeastern United States, famed both for the number and variety of retailers in the region. In the heart of the city is Underground Atlanta, with both underground and above-ground shopping thoroughfares. The wealthy Buckhead neighborhood is considered a “must” for shoppers, with a variety of specialty stores, boutiques,
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Education
Atlanta’s public school system enrolled 60,064 students in a total of 99 schools in the fall of 1996 and employed 3,605 classroom teachers, with a student/teacher ratio of 16.7 to one. During the 1995–96 school year, 2,054 students graduated from high schools in the city. In the 1994–95 school year, revenues from state, local, and federal sources totaled $499,845,000, and expenditures totaled $416,105, or $6,986 per pupil. In the 1990s public education in Atlanta received a boost with the inauguration of the Georgia Lottery for Education. Among the activities it has helped fund are a prekindergarten pro-
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Atlanta gram, the HOPE scholarship program, and new educational technology, as well as centers to train school personnel in using it. Atlanta’s public school system has been widely praised for its Magnet School Program, which offers concentrated courses of study to students interested in particular career areas, including communications, performing arts, information processing, and the hospitality industry. Located in downtown Atlanta, Georgia State University is the state’s second-largest institution of higher learning. The university enrolls more than 20,000 students, who take courses offered by 50 academic departments. Emory University is a noted private university situated on a 255-hectare (631acre) campus in Atlanta. It underwent major physical improvement and expansion in the 1990s thanks to a $105 million gift from the Emily and Ernest Woodruff Fund. A unique academic presence in Atlanta is Atlanta University Center, a consortium of six traditionally black colleges in the area. The six colleges, which share some facilities, but remain independent entities, are Clark Atlanta University, Interdenominational Theological Center, Morehouse College, Morehouse School of Medicine, Morris Brown College, and Spelman College. Other colleges and universities in the Atlanta area include the Atlanta College of Art, Atlanta Metropolitan College, DeKalb College, the DeVry Institute of Technology, Georgia Institute of Technology, and Oglethorpe University.
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Health Care
Home to many first-rate health care professionals and facilities, Atlanta offers its residents the highest quality of care. Both Emory University and the Morehouse School of Medicine train future doctors, and the Emory University Health Care System—comprising Emory University Hospital, Crawford Long Hospital, the Emory Clinic, and other affiliates—is the city’s largest healthcare institution. In 1998, Emory University Hospital had 513 staffed beds, employed 1,220 personnel, and recorded 20,336 admissions and 72,898 outpatient visits. Egleston Children’s Health Care System is a major referral center for the Southeast, treating more than 100,000 children every year. In 1995 the Atlanta metropolitan area had 43 community hospitals, with a total of 9,706 beds and 5,755 officebased physicians. 14
Media
As home to the Turner Broadcasting System, the Weather Channel, 11 television stations, and both a morning and afternoon major daily newspaper, Atlanta is a major media outlet. Turner Broadcasting operates CNN, the first round-the-clock all-news network, begun in 1980 by media magnate Ted Turner, as well as other networks and a number of subsidiaries. The company also owns the rights to thousands of film and TV titles, including Gone with the Wind, the classic film written by Atlantan Margaret Mitchell. In addition to 11 major local television stations,
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Atlanta Atlanta has dozens of AM and FM radio stations running the gamut from National Public Radio (NPR) to countryand-western. Atlanta’s major newspaper is a daily that appears weekday mornings as The Atlanta Constitution and afternoons as the Atlanta Journal. Combined editions of the two papers appear over the weekend. In 1998 daily circulation was reported as 353,770 mornings, 123,220 evenings, and 677,019 for the combined paper on Sundays. Other Atlanta dailies are the African-American newspaper the Atlanta Daily World, the Daily Report, a paper for the business and legal communities, and the Marietta Daily Journal, which focuses on local coverage of Cobb County. General-interest periodicals published in Atlanta include the monthly Atlanta Magazine, the bi-monthly Atlanta Now, published by the Atlanta Convention and Visitors Bureau, the Atlanta Tribune, a newsmagazine that focuses on African Americans, and the monthly Guide to Georgia, which lists upcoming events in Atlanta and elsewhere in the state. Special-interest periodicals include the quarterly Popcorn, focusing on glamour and entertainment; Poets, Artists, and Madmen, which covers the arts; and Art Papers, a bimonthly that is the most influential art publication in the Southeast. 15
Sports
Atlanta fields major-league teams in baseball, basketball, football, and hockey. The Atlanta Braves baseball
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franchise, owned by Ted Turner, was dubbed the “team of the ‘90s,” competing in the World Series four times in the decade and winning the championship in 1995. Turner Field, the Braves’ home since 1997, was modified from a structure originally built for the 1996 Olympic Games. The Atlanta Hawks NBA basketball team, also owned by Turner, moved to a new home downtown in Philips Arena in the fall of 1999. The NFL’s Atlanta Falcons play home games in the Georgia Dome. A new NHL hockey team, the Atlanta Thrashers, began play in Philips Arena in the fall of 1999. Auto racing can be seen at Road Atlanta, a 45-minute drive north from downtown and one of the region’s best auto-racing venues. 16
Parks and Recreation
At 75 hectares (185 acres), Piedmont Park is Atlanta’s largest park. The tree-filled park is a favorite with walkers, who can enjoy a six-kilometer (four-mile) loop trail over its somewhat hilly terrain. There is also a paved fivekilometer (three-mile) jogging path and trails for cycling and skating, as well as ball fields frequently used for baseball and football. Home to the annual Arts Festival of Atlanta and many other fairs and festivals, Piedmont Park is also the location of the Atlanta Botanical Garden and a regular venue for summertime Atlanta Symphony Orchestra concerts. Other Atlanta parks include Chastain Park and Grant Park.
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Atlanta The Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area extends along the Chattahoochee River shoreline. It is graced with scenic views and abundant plant and animal life and also offers 113 kilometers (70 miles) of trails. The Chattahoochee Nature Center offers both woodland and wetland trails. Other parks in the Greater Atlanta area include Panola Mountain State Conservation Park, Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park, and Sweetwater Creek State Park. Atlanta has a number of municipal golf courses, and several privately owned courses are also open to the public. The Atlanta area also offers facilities for horseback riding, field hockey, ice skating, racquetball, tennis, and other popular recreational activities. 17
Performing Arts
The Atlanta Symphony Orchestra, which rose to prominence under the direction of famed American choral and orchestral conductor Robert Shaw, performs in Woodruff Arts Center under the direction of its current music director, Yoel Levi. Also performing a regular season of classical music are the Atlanta Chamber Players, whose repertoire ranges from the classics to contemporary pieces specially commissioned by the ensemble. The Atlanta Opera, directed by William Fred Scott, stages four productions annually at the Fox Theatre, attracting top guest soloists from across the country. In 1998, the Opera had 6,822 seasonal subscribers and a budget of $4.96 million. The
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company’s educational and outreach division, the Atlanta Opera Studio, performs throughout the state, staging comic and one-act operas. Atlanta’s main theater group—and the major theatrical group in the Southeast—is the Alliance Theatre Company, which performs at the Woodruff Arts Center, staging approximately ten plays per year. Special performances for children are staged by the Alliance Children’s Theatre. Other Atlanta theater companies include Actor’s Express, Horizon Theatre Company, Neighborhood Playhouse, Theatrical Outfit, Theatre Gael, and Theatre in the Square. First founded in 1929 as the Dorothy Alexander Dance Concert Group, the Atlanta Ballet is the oldest continuously performing ballet troupe in the nation. In addition to a six-productions annual series, the company offers a performance of The Nutcracker every year. In addition to the Woodruff Arts Center and the Fox Theatre, other venues for local and touring performers include the Atlanta Civic Center and Variety Playhouse. Outdoor theaters include Chastain Park Amphitheatre and the Coca-Cola Lakewood Amphitheatre. 18
Libraries and Museums
Founded in 1901, the Atlanta-Fulton Public Library System serves 780,694 people, with an annual circulation of 3,102,081. Its book holdings total approximately 426,248 volumes.
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Atlanta The library system also operates 32 neighborhood branches. The areas in which it holds special collections include African American Culture & History, Genealogy, and Margaret Mitchell. Atlanta’s High Museum of Art is housed in a modern award-winning building designed by architect Richard Meier and completed in 1983. The building features a series of ramps that curve along the building’s front wall and an elevator that goes to the very top. The museum maintains some 10,000 artworks in its permanent collection, ranging from primitive to classical to contemporary, and regularly features traveling exhibitions. A separate collection, housed in the GeorgiaPacific Center, features folk art and photography.
MARCH
Atlanta Home Show St. Patrick’s Day Celebration APRIL
Atlanta Dogwood Festival Atlanta Steeplechase Fat Tuesday Jazz & Heritage Crawfish Festival Inman Park Spring Festival & Tour of Homes PGA BellSouth Classic APRIL-MAY
Atlanta Renaissance Festival MAY
Atlanta Caribbean Folk Festival Atlanta Jazz Festival Springfest Festival Taste of the South Festival LATE MAY-EARLY JUNE
Spring Boat Show JUNE
Atlanta Film & Video Festival Stone Mountain Village Arts & Crafts Festival JUNE-AUGUST
Georgia Shakespeare Festival JULY
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To u r i s m
Atlanta’s cosmopolitan reputation and thriving business activity bring many visitors to the city, and tourism received a major boost from the 1996 Olympics. In 1995 approximately 495,000 foreign travelers visited the city, ranking it twelfth nationally in this category. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY
Atlanta Boat Show Atlanta Garden & Patio Show National King Week Peach Bowl
National Black Arts Festival Thunder Over Atlanta Fireworks LATE AUGUST-SEPTEMBER
Montreux Atlanta International Music Festival SEPTEMBER
Arts Festival of Atlanta Atlanta Greek Festival Roswell Arts Festival Yellow Daisy Festival OCTOBER
Scottish Festival & Highland Games Tour of Southern Ghosts Fright Fest NOVEMBER
Atlanta Christmas Show Peachtree International Film Festival NOVEMBER-DECEMBER
Art of the Season Holiday Celebration
FEBRUARY
DECEMBER
Southeastern Flower Show
CNN Center Tuba Christmas
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Atlanta
The Martin Luther King, Jr. National Historic Site includes his tomb as well as his birthplace and church. (S. Moore: Woodfin Camp)
Festival of Trees First Night Atlanta New Year’s Eve Peach Drop
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Famous Citizens
Henry Louis “Hank” Aaron (b. 1934), black baseball great who broke Babe Ruth’s home run record in 1974. Henry W. Grady (1850–89), editor of the Atlanta Constitution during the post-Civil War period who worked to reconstruct Atlanta as a modern metropolis.
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Joel Chandler Harris (1848–1908), author famous for his children’s tales of B’rer Rabbit. Robert Tyre “Bobby” Jones (1902–71), golfer who founded the Masters Tournament and compiled a golfing record unsurpassed in the history of the game. Martin Luther King, Jr. (1929–1968), civil rights leader and Nobel Prizewinning champion of social progress through nonviolent resistance.
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Atlanta Margaret Mitchell (1900–49), onetime reporter famous as the author of Gone with the Wind.
Atlanta Planning and Development Dept. 55 Trinity Ave. SW, Suite 1450 Atlanta, GA 30335 (404) 330-6070
John C. Portman (b. 1924), architect who pioneered the atrium-lobby in hotel design and designed many major Atlanta buildings in the 1960s.
Mayor’s Office 55 Trinity Ave. SW, Suite 2400 Atlanta, GA 30335 (404) 330-6100
Robert Edward “Ted” Turner (b. 1938), media and entertainment mogul who founded the Cable News Network (CNN) and owns the Atlanta Braves and the Atlanta Hawks. Alfred Uhry (b. 1936), prize-winning playwright and author of numerous award-winning dramas, including Driving Miss Daisy. Robert W. Woodruff (1889–1985), CocaCola Company president known for his outstanding civic leadership. 22
For Further Study
Websites Atlanta.TheLinks.com [Online] Available http:// www.atlanta.thelinks.com/ (accessed October 15, 1999). DigitalCity WebGuide Atlanta. [Online] Available http://www.webguide.digitalcity.com/ atlanta (accessed October 15, 1999). Excite Travel, Inc. [Online] Available http:// www.city.net/countries/united_states/ georgia/atlanta (accessed October 15, 1999). Info Atlanta. [Online] Available http:// www.travel.to/atlanta (accessed October 15, 1999).
Government Offices Atlanta City Hall 55 Trinity Ave. SW Atlanta, GA 30335 (404) 330-6000
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Tourist and Convention Bureaus Atlanta Convention and Visitors’ Bureau 233 Peachtree St. NE, Suite 100 Atlanta, GA 30303 (404) 521-6600
Publications Atlanta Constitution/Journal P.O. Box 4689 Atlanta, GA 30302 Atlanta Magazine 1330 Peachtree St. NE, Suite 450 Atlanta, GA 30309
Books Allen, Frederick. Atlanta Rising: The Invention of an International City, 1946–1996. Atlanta, GA: Longstreet Press, 1996. Clayton, Sarah Conley. Requiem for a Lost City: A Memoir of Civil War Atlanta and the Old South. Ed. Robert Scott Davis, Jr. Macon, GA: Mercer University Press, 1999. David, Harold E. Henry Grady’s New South: Atlanta, A Brave and Beautiful City. University of Alabama Press, 1990. Davis, Ren, and Helen Davis. Atlanta Walks: A Guide to Walking, Running, and Bicycling Historic and Scenic Atlanta. Atlanta: Peachtree Publishers, 1993. Garrison, Webb B. Atlanta and the War. Nashville: Rutledge Hill Press, 1995. Gournay, Isabelle. AIA Guide to the Architecture of Atlanta. Athens: University of Georgia Press, 1993. Knorr, Rosanne. Kidding Around Atlanta. J. Muir, 1997. Kuhn, Clifford M. Living Atlanta, An Oral History of the City, 1914–1948. Athens: University of Georgia Press, 1990. McCarley, J. Britt. The Atlanta Campaign: A Civil War Driving Tour of Atlanta Area Battlefields. Atlanta: Cherokee Publishing Co., 1984. Mitchell, Margaret. Gone With the Wind. New
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Atlanta York: Macmillan, 1936. [Fiction] Pomerantz, Gary. Where Peachtree Meets Sweet Auburn: The Saga of Two Families and the Making of Atlanta. New York: Scribner, 1996. Shavin, Norman, and Bruce Galphin. Atlanta:
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Triumph of a People. Atlanta: Capricorn Corp., 1985. Thompson, Joseph F., and Robert Isbell. Atlanta: A City of Neighborhoods. Columbia, SC: University of South Carolina Press, 1994.
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Bangkok Bangkok, Thailand, Asia Founded: c. 1769 Location: Located in the Chao Phraya River basin, Thailand, in a region often called the “Rice Bowl of Asia” Time Zone: 7 p.m. = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: Thai, 90%; Chinese, 9%; other, 1% Latitude and Longitude: 13°45’N, 100°30’E Coastline: Gulf of Thailand Climate: Subtropical. Bangkok is hot all year, with temperatures ranging from an average of 25°C (77°F) in December to 30°C (86°F) in April. Bangkok has three distinct seasons: the hot season (March through May), the rainy season (June through October), and the cool season (November through February). Annual Mean Temperature: 28°C (82°F) Average Annual Rainfall: 150 cm (59 in) Government: Thailand is a constitutional monarchy. The city of Bangkok is designated as a province and governed by an elected governor. Weights and Measures: Metric Monetary Units: The baht is Thailand’s basic unit of currency. In 1999, the exchange rate was approximately 40 Thai baht to one U.S. dollar. Telephone Area Code: 02; 66 (Thailand country code)
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Introduction
Bangkok has been Thailand’s dominant city since the eighteenth century. Established as the capital in 1767 after the fall of the ancient city of Ayutthaya, Bangkok is located on one of southeastern Asia’s most important rivers, the Chao Phraya. In the 1980s and 1990s, Bangkok underwent rapid modernization, growing to approximately ten million people, making this the only major city in a country of villages and small towns. Bangkok’s ancient palaces and Buddhist temples contrast with high rises and traffic jams. Dense air pollution blankets the city. In fact, police
directing traffic are required to wear masks. Still, despite modern problems, Bangkok is a major tourist destination, drawing millions of visitors each year. 2
Getting There
Bangkok is located in central Thailand along the Chao Phraya River. Most visitors to Thailand travel by air though travelers in neighboring countries can reach Bangkok by bus, rail, or boat. Bus and Railroad Service Traveling by bus into Thailand is not common for foreigners, though
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Bangkok
Bangkok Population Profile Population: 7,221,000 Area: More than 2,300 sq km (900 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 90% Thai; 9% Chinese; 1% other World population rank1: 28 Percentage of Thailand population2: 12% Average yearly growth rate: 2.0% Nicknames: Venice of Asia, City of Angels, Divine City ——— 1. Bangkok’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of Thailand’s total population living in the Bangkok metropolitan area.
buses do enter the country from Malaysia, Laos, and Cambodia. Due to past conflicts, much of Thailand’s border with Myanmar (formerly Burma) is mined and unsafe for travelers. The Hualamphong Railway Station on Rama IV Road is the city’s main rail station, serving most long-distance routes. The Bangkok Noi, across the river from the Grand Palace, is used for shorter trips outside of the city. Airports Bangkok International Airport is the major gateway to all of Thailand. Located about 24 kilometers (15 miles) north of Bangkok, the airport is served by more than 35 airlines. Northwest Airlines is the U.S. carrier with the most frequent flights while Thailand’s major airline is Thai Airways International, with flights to many international cities. Since the airport is located outside of the city, visitors traveling to Bangkok
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must arrange transportation into Bangkok. Buses, taxis, hotel minibuses, and a riverboat shuttle all connect the airport with downtown. Flight times from some major U.S. cities include New York, 22 hours; Chicago, 20 hours; and San Francisco, 17 hours. Shipping Bangkok is Thailand’s major port, handling nearly all of the country’s exports and receiving over 70 percent of its imports. The Chao Phraya River connects the city to the Gulf of Thailand, 27 kilometers (17 miles) downstream. 3
Getting Around
Originally, Bangkok’s transportation system was based on the Chao Phraya River and a series of canals. With the advent of the automobile, however, many of the canals have been filled in to make way for roads, and water travel is most common on the Chao Phraya. Finding your way around Bangkok is a challenge. Bangkok is not a planned city, and its growth has often been chaotic. The city sprawls alongside the Chao Phraya River, with roads and alleys spiraling off in every direction. Rama I Road goes through the center of town. Further along, Rama I turns into Sukhumvit Road, an area with many hotels, restaurants, and bars. Most visitors to the city travel by taxi, river taxi, or tuk-tuk (cheap open-air, threewheeled taxis).
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Bangkok
Bus and Commuter Rail Service Buses in Bangkok are cheap and convenient, with many routes and frequent stops. For a fare of less than 20 baht (less than 50 cents), riders can take an air-conditioned bus to popular desti-
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nations. For less than 20 cents, riders can take the more frequent, non-airconditioned buses to just about anywhere in the city, though these buses tend to be crowded and very hot. Buses operate from 5:00 AM until 11:00 PM, and though the routes are confusing,
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Bangkok maps are available from most street-side book vendors. An elevated rail system was projected to begin operation in early 2000. A subway system is also underway, though its construction is progressing slowly. Boats Water travel was once the main means of transportation in this city of rivers and canals. River taxis and ferries are still one of Bangkok’s most popular means of travel although they are losing out to automobiles. Commuter boats run several routes along and across the Chao Phraya. The main jetty stops are located at the Oriental Hotel, the Royal Orchid Sheraton, the River City Shopping Center, and the Grand Palace. The fare is reasonable at about 15 baht (25 cents), depending on distance. For more leisurely sightseeing trips, long-tailed boats can be rented by the hour for about 400 baht (ten dollars). Taxis and Tuk-tuks In 1993 meters were installed in all city taxis, although most drivers refuse to use them. Drivers almost always charge much higher fares than the meters would tally, but taxis are relatively cheap by Western standards. A tuk-tuk is a colorful threewheeled vehicle. Passengers ride in an open-air compartment that offers little protection in an accident. Tuk-tuks are the cheapest—and most dangerous— way to travel within the city. Tuk-tuk
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drivers weave in and out of dense traffic. Despite the hazards, a ride in a tuktuk may be the most convenient way to travel for a short trip or during rush hour. 4
People
Thailand is one of the most racially homogenous countries in Asia, with more than 80 percent of its population being native Thai. The major minority group is Chinese, comprising ten to 14 percent, while all other ethnic groups combined, including Malays, Indians, Burmese, Vietnamese, Cambodians, and Europeans, account for approximately five percent. In Bangkok these numbers are even more extreme, with native Thais making up as much as 90 percent of the population. The Chinese are again the largest minority group, at about nine percent, and they are the most integrated of the non-Thai populations. Intermarriage between Chinese and Thai is common and accepted, and the Chinese population has a long and historic presence in Bangkok. Because of restrictive foreign immigration quotas adopted after World War II (1939–45), Bangkok’s population is becoming less, not more, diverse. Bangkok is a rapidly expanding city, with the population growing from approximately five million in the early 1990s to more than ten million at the beginning of the twenty-first century. The population is overwhelmingly young, with as many as half of
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Bangkok
City Fact Comparison Indicator
Bangkok (Thailand)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
7,221,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
c. 1769
753 BC
723 BC
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$125
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$59
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$15
$14
$15
$16
$199
$173
$246
$207
37
13
20
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Thai Rath
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
700,000
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1958
1944
1976
1948
Total daily costs (hotel, meals, incidentals) Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established 1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
Bangkok’s residents under the age of 20. Females slightly outnumber males. The main language of Thailand is Thai (or Tai). In Bangkok and the southern regions of the country, a dialect of Thai is spoken that is faster and more abbreviated than other Thai dialects. English is the secondary language of the country’s educated and elite, and English is spoken much more commonly in Bangkok than other regions of the country. Buddhism is considered the country’s official religion, and Bangkok is Thailand’s Buddhist center, home to many of the country’s most famous
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temples, called wats. Buddhism is also the city’s largest religion, with close to 95 percent of all citizens being Buddhist. Four percent of Bangkok’s population is Muslim while Christians, Hindus, Confucians, and Sikhs account for less than one percent. 5
Neighborhoods
While Bangkok as a whole is confusing—sprawling for over 2,331 square kilometers (900 square miles)—the city can be broken down into several major and distinct neighborhoods. Old Bangkok, on the west side of the Chao Phraya River, is the original site of the
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Bangkok
City of Bangkok on the Chao Phraya River. (Robert Frerck: Woodfin Camp)
capital. Old Royal City is on the east side of the river and contains the major tourist attractions, including the Grand Palace, the Wat Pho Temple, and the National Museum. Southeast of Old Royal City is Sam Peng. Sam Peng has a large foreign population, including many Chinese merchants. Further east, Chinatown is another district with a large Chinese population. Chinatown offers many small shops and ethnic restaurants, as well as hotels catering to Chinese businessmen. South of Chinatown is Silom. Silom is the center of the city’s financial district, and many of Bangkok’s most expensive hotels are
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located there. Sukhumvit, which used to be considered the outskirts of the city, is northeast of Silom. Sukhumvit is a major tourist area, with many hotels, restaurants, and bars. Sukhumvit is also noted as having the city’s best nightlife. Houses consist mostly of one- or two-story wooden structures built closely together. Most of these homes are overcrowded, and the shortage of housing gets worse every year. Government housing programs barely address this shortage. Some government-sponsored concrete high-rises have been constructed, but the demand for hous-
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Bangkok ing continues to grow faster than new housing can be built. To make matters worse, real estate developers focus only on providing homes for middle- and upper-income residents. Squatters occupy unused public land, a practice permitted by the government. 6
History
Since the late 1700s, Bangkok has been Thailand’s largest and most important city. In 1767, after the Burmese sacked and burned Ayutthaya, the ancient capital of Siam (now named Thailand), the capital was moved down the Chao Phraya River to Thon Buri or Old Bangkok, on the west bank of the river. In 1782 King Rama I (1737–1809; r. 1782–1809), upon ascending to the throne, moved the capital to a village across the river. This move was strategic, putting the wide Chao Phraya River between the capital and the ofteninvading Burmese. The village across the river was then composed mostly of Chinese traders and was known as Bangkok, which translates as "Village of Wild Plums." Rama I wanted his new capital to equal the splendor of Ayutthaya, which had served as the country’s capital for more than 400 years. By the end of his reign, Bangkok was a thriving city, and King Rama I had established a walled palace complex, the Grand Palace, and a major Buddhist temple, the Wat Phra Kaeo. To fortify the new capital, Rama I ordered the construction of a sevenkilometer-long (four-and-a-half-milelong), three-meter-high (ten-foot-high)
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wall along the river, which further protected the city from invasion. During the reigns of King Rama II (1768–1824; r. 1809–1824) and Rama III (r. 1824–1851), many of the city’s Buddhist monasteries (called wats) were constructed. In addition to their religious functions, the wats served as centers of learning, medicine, and recreation. Major temples included the Wat Arun, the Wat Yan Nawa, and the Wat Pho. During this period, however, the rest of the city was neglected. The kings built few other major public buildings and almost no paved roads. Average citizens relied on a series of interconnected canals (khlongs) for transportation. Until the reign of Rama V (1853– 1910; r. 1868–1910) public works were not a priority. The king foresaw the importance of the automobile and established a system of roadways and bridges. In addition, Rama V instituted a post and telegraph service, an electric tram service, and the State Railway. Much of Thailand’s history has been a battle for sovereignty, and while the country has suffered through many invasions, Thailand boasts that it is one of the few countries in Asia never conquered and colonized. This point is debatable. During World War II (1939– 45), though Thailand was technically allied with the Japanese, troops from Japan controlled much of Thailand and were concentrated in Bangkok. In the past 20 years, Bangkok has expanded rapidly. During the Vietnam War era, American soldiers used the city
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Bangkok
During the reign of King Rama II (1768–1824; r. 1809–1824) and Rama III (r. 1824–1851), many citizens relied on canals for transportation due to a lack of roads in the city. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
as a rest-and-relaxation destination. The city then had a population of 1.5 million, a population that has since ballooned to approximately ten million. The increase in population means congestion and pollution in the city. Air pollution in Bangkok is perhaps the worst in the world, and the overcrowding and lack of planning have impacted everything from transportation to drinking water to housing. In the 1990s, Bangkok had close to one million registered motor vehicles, along with an ever-expanding superhighway system. Most of Bangkok’s canals were filled in and paved over to make new roads. This replacement caused parts of the city to sink, and annual flooding has become a problem.
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Despite modern problems, however, the city retains much of its ancient charm. Bangkok’s colorful markets, historic buildings, and ornate temples attract millions of tourists each year. 7
Government
Thailand is a constitutional monarchy. King Bhumibol Adulyadej (b. 1946) formally rules over a highly centralized government, but real decisionmaking power in governmental affairs rests with the prime minister. The king signed a new constitution on October 11, 1997. The city of Bangkok has provincial status, meaning it is run by an elected governor instead of a mayor. Up until
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Bangkok 1985, Bangkok's governor and assemblymen were appointed by the central government. However, starting in November 1985, elections were instituted for the first time. 8
Public Safety
Bangkok is one of the world’s most populated and crowded cities, and like most major cities, Bangkok has problems with crime. As Bangkok’s population grew in the latter half of the twentieth century, so too did its crime rate. The number of murders, assaults, thefts, and armed robberies all increased. Smuggling is widespread in Bangkok, with drugs, endangered animal products, and stolen antiques all passing through the city. International pressure has been exerted to urge Thailand to deal with two major criminal problems: child prostitution and the opium drug trade. With prostitution having a semi-legal status in Thailand, advocacy groups have been formed to address childhood prostitution and pornography. As for opium, rural Thailand is one of the world’s major growers of poppies, used to make opium, and many nations have been pressuring Thailand to more aggressively combat the drug trade. The Bangkok Metropolitan Police are responsible for providing law enforcement services for the city and its suburbs. The urban police force is operated by an appointed commissioner.
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Economy
Bangkok is the center of Thailand’s economy and the country’s principal port. Bangkok is the country’s financial center, home to over one-third of Thailand’s banks, as well as the Bangkok Stock Exchange. Thailand’s basic unit of currency is the baht, with the exchange rate at approximately 40 baht per U.S.$1. Most of the factories in Bangkok are small, many of them family-owned. Food processing, textiles, and the production of building materials are the chief manufacturing enterprises. Other industries include cement, electronics, petroleum refining, and tourism. Bangkok is a major regional city, but it has begun seeking foreign investment in an effort to increase its importance internationally. Recent events, however, have undermined this effort. Bangkok’s crime rate remains high, with foreigners often the targets of violence, and widespread corruption continues to plague many business ventures. To make matters worse, the country is suffering through a severe and lingering recession. In the mid1990s, the Thai economy virtually collapsed, with exports drying up and many banks hurt by bad loans and uncollected debt. Thailand’s collapse helped trigger a financial crisis that engulfed nearly all of Asia. In August 1997, the Thai government applied for and received IMF loans. (The IMF, International Monetary Fund, is an organization that promotes worldwide economic stability.) In return for $14
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Bangkok billion of assistance, the country agreed to a series of banking and market reforms. 10
Environment
Being an urban area, Bangkok has few natural resources, with most of its land devoted to development. The Kingdom of Thailand, however, has many natural resources. Its major resources are tin, rubber, natural gas, tungsten, tantalum, timber, lead, fish, gypsum, lignite, and fluorite. Elephants receive considerable attention in Bangkok. Although it is technically illegal to bring elephants into the city, more are showing up on Bangkok’s city streets. Because the elephants’ natural habitat is being destroyed by development, handlers bring their animals into Bangkok to beg for food. Elephants are popular with tourists but unpopular with city drivers. Many elephants are involved in traffic accidents on Bangkok’s overcrowded streets. 11
Shopping
Bangkok has many colorful and crowded markets. Booths sell everything from fake Rolex watches to designer clothing. Bangkok's most popular exports are silks, jewelry, celadon pottery, lacquerware, masks, carvings, and antiques—all of which are relatively cheap by Western standards. Bangkok’s largest market is the open-air Weekend Market at Chatuchak Park. The Weekend Market is an
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authentic Asian-style bazaar. Silom Road has both booths and shops and is crowded almost every night. Throughout Bangkok there are many malls and chain stores. Haggling is common in the traditional Thai markets. 12
Education
Because of its large school-age population, Bangkok’s schools are grossly overcrowded. With too few teachers and schools, education in the city varies greatly, with the standard of education often depending on a student’s social class. Children of upper-class parents usually attend private schools, many of which focus on English-language instruction. Poorer students often attend schools associated with Buddhist temples. Education is compulsory for children from the ages of seven to 14. Bangkok is home to the majority of Thailand’s universities. However, in Thailand a Western education is highly prized, and students who can afford to study abroad usually do. The overall literacy rate of the country approaches 95 percent. 13
Health Care
Public health in Thailand improved greatly in the second half of the twentieth century. In the late 1990s the life expectancy for men was 65 years; for women it was 73 years. In 1960 the life expectancy for both men and women had been only 51 years. Much of this increase was due to a successful struggle against malaria, which had once been the number one cause of
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Bangkok
Damonen Saduak floating market. (A. Ramey: Woodfin Camp)
illness and death. Citizens in Bangkok receive the best health care of anyone in Thailand. This is simply due to the fact that a disproportionate number of health care facilities are concentrated in the Bangkok area. Of major concern to health officials is the issue of drinking water. Bangkok has the highest access to safe drinking water of any region in the country, but fully 40 percent of Bangkok’s residents have little access to uncontaminated public water, forcing many of the city’s poor to drink from rainwater pooled in shallow wells or
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collected from roof drainage. Others resort to drinking from the polluted rivers and canals. Reported cases of AIDS were on the rise at the end of the twentieth century. Much of this rise was blamed on the fact that prostitution is accepted and widespread in Bangkok. 14
Media
Thailand’s constitution guarantees freedom of the press, and most outside observers agree that the Thai press enjoys a reasonable amount of freedom.
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Bangkok Nevertheless, writers and reporters exercise a degree of self-censorship, due to unwritten but very real government constraints. Criticism of the monarchy is especially frowned upon. The majority of Thailand’s newspapers are based in Bangkok; most of these are independent and privately owned. The Thai Rath and the Daily News have the largest readerships. Government agencies, including the Thai News Agency, issue many of their own reports. The Office of the Prime Minister controls radio and television broadcasting. Hours, content, and programs all must be approved by government officials. The National Broadcasting Services of Thailand (NBT) is the official government broadcasting station, focusing on local and international news. By the 1980s television had become Bangkok’s dominant news medium, with nine out of ten households owning at least one television set. Computer and internet use are still mostly confined to the upper classes. 15
Sports
Thailand’s national sport is Thai Boxing. Thai boxing combines traditional boxing with martial arts. Matches in Bangkok draw huge crowds, and betting is common in the stands. Besides boxing, Bangkok offers horseracing enthusiasts two tracks with races every Sunday. Soccer is growing in popularity, and Bangkok’s National Stadium is host to many important matches.
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Parks and Recreation
Lumphini Park Lumphini Park is Bangkok’s most popular and oldest park. Lumphini is one of the few green spaces in this congested city. Restaurants and bars line the north side of the park, and, although not legal within city limits, elephant trainers often bring their elephants into the park and offer tourists rides for a modest fee. King Rama IX Royal Park This park opened in 1987 to commemorate the King Rama IX’s sixtieth birthday. The park contains a public park, a water park, and botanical gardens. Samphran Elephant Grounds & Zoo Located on the outskirts of Bangkok, this is the best place in Thailand to see elephants. Shows reenact eighteenth-century Thai battles, with the elephants clad in armor. Elephants also perform in a circus and in polo matches. Massage Massage is one of Bangkok’s most popular pastimes. In Thailand, and much of Asia, massage is considered a component of good health. Massage schools and businesses can be found all over the city.
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Bangkok 17
Performing Arts
Classical Thai dance is Bangkok’s performing art of note. Traditional dance blends a series of controlled gestures and movements with drama. The dancers wear elaborate costumes and masks, and performances are accompanied by woodwind and percussion instruments. 18
Libraries and Museums
The National Museum The National Museum is considered to be Southeast Asia’s largest and most comprehensive museum. Founded in 1782, the museum’s several buildings house artifacts representing more than 10,000 years of history. The museum gives visitors a thorough overview of Thai history and culture. The Grand Palace The Grand Palace was founded in 1782 when Bangkok was made the nation’s capital. It is still surrounded by high white walls that were originally used for protection. This is Thailand’s most frequented tourist site. The Palace consists of more than 100 elaborately decorated buildings. Within the Palace grounds is the Wat Phra Kaeo temple, considered one of the most beautiful temples in Thailand. The Wat Pho The Wat Pho is one of Bangkok’s oldest and largest temples. It is located just south of the Grand Palace. The
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temple houses the gigantic 35-meterlong (115-foot-long) gold Reclining Buddha. The Wat Pho also served as Thailand’s first university. The Pasteur Institute The Pasteur Institute is also known as The Snake Farm. The Red Cross runs this farm as a center for snake venom collection. Handlers milk poison from cobras, black mambas, pit vipers, and other dangerous snakes, and then the venom is used to make an antidote for people bitten by poisonous snakes. National Theatre Thailand's National Theatre is located on Na Phra Lan Road next to the National Museum. Thai Classical dramas and other types of international arts are periodically staged here. Current programs can be checked at the theatre on weekdays between 8:30 AM and 4:30 PM. Special exhibition shows of Thai classical dancing and music are held on the last Friday and Saturday of each month. Royal Ceremonial Barges The King’s royal ceremonial barges are housed in a shed on the west side of the Chao Phraya River, across from the Grand Palace compound. Dating from the early part of the twentieth century, the barges were carved to look like mythical creatures. They are considered a national treasure.
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Bangkok
Elephant sculptures flanking a shrine at the base of a large, gilded Phra Si Ranta Chedi, one of the most prominent buildings in the Wat Phra Kaeo complex. (Lindsay Hebberd; Woodfin Camp)
National Art Gallery This gallery exhibits both modern and traditional Thai art, and it also schedules rotating and traveling exhibitions. 19
To u r i s m
Thailand is one of Southeast Asia’s major tourist destinations, and almost all visitors to Thailand pass through Bangkok. In the 1990s, an estimated six to seven million tourists visited Bangkok each year. While Bangkok is famous for its food and wild nightlife, it is probably best known for its history.
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Historic buildings and temples are scattered throughout the city. The Grand Palace is considered one of Thailand’s most important tourist sites. The Grand Palace dates back to 1782, established when King Rama I moved the capital to Bangkok. Bangkok’s famous temples include the Wat Pho and the Wat Traimitr. The Wat Pho temple is home to the 35-meter-long (151-foot-long) Reclining Buddha, and the Wat Traimitr temple houses the world’s largest solidgold Buddha, weighing five metric tons (five-and-a-half tons) and standing three meters (ten feet) high. The Royal Ceremonial Barges are another popular
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Bangkok history, respected for his skills as a musician and composer, also well known as a painter, sculpture, and photographer.
attraction. These elaborately decorated, intricately carved longboats take the form of mythical creatures and are only used by the king on special occasions. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY-FEBRUARY Chinese New Year (a two-day holiday based on a lunar calendar)
FEBRUARY Magha Puja (a Buddhist Holiday commemorating the day when 1,250 Buddhist disciples spontaneously heard Buddha preach the cardinal doctrine)
APRIL Songkran (the Thai New Year, celebrated by setting birds and fish free)
MAY Coronation Day
JULY-AUGUST Visakha Puja (celebrated on the full moon of the sixth lunar month, commemorating Buddha’s birth, enlightenment, and death. Monk’s lead candlelight processions around temples.)
AUGUST
Queen Sirikit (b. 1932), wife of King Bhumibol Adulyadej, activist for rural women, the conservation of natural resources, and protection of forestlands and endangered animals. Jim Thompson (b. 1906), an American who moved to Bangkok after World War II, credited with reviving Thailand’s silk industry, mysteriously disappeared into the Malaysian jungles in 1967. Mai Charoenpura (b. 1969), model and actress, as well as one of Thailand’s most popular singers. Venerable P. A. Payutto, Thailand's foremost Buddhist scholar and author, most famous for his book Buddhadhamma (1995).
Queen’s Birthday (August 12)
NOVEMBER Loi Krathong (a time of atonement, celebrated to honor water spirits. After sunset people make their way to a body of water and float candles on small lotus-shaped boats.)
DECEMBER King’s Birthday (December 5; Thailand’s Royal Elite Guards lead a colorful procession.) Constitution Day
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Famous Citizens
Bhumibol Adulyadej (b. 1927), highly respected King of Thailand (r. 1946–), born in Cambridge, Massachusetts, considered the embodiment of religion, culture, and
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For Further Study
Websites Bangkok.com. [Online] Available http:// www.bangkok.com (accessed October 12, 1999). Bangkok, Thailand. [Online] Available http:// bangkok.thailandtoday.com/index.shtml (accessed April 14, 2000). CIA, the World Factbook 1999, Thailand. [Online] Available http://www.odci.gov/cia/ publications/factbook/th.html (accessed October 12, 1999). Thailand the Big Picture. [Online] Available http://www.nectec.or.th/ (accessed October 12, 1999). Thailand Travel Information Center. [Online] Available http://www.thaiinfo.com/ (accessed October 12, 1999).
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Bangkok Government Offices Tourist Police Unico House Ploenchit Soi Lang Suan Bangkok Phone: (02) 221–6209 United States Embassy 95 Wireless Road Bangkok Phone: (02) 252–5040 Tourist Authority of Thailand 372 Bamrung Muang Rd. Pom Prap, 10100 Bangkok Phone: (02) 226–0060
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Tourism Authority of Thailand offices in the United States: East Coast: 5 World Trade Center, Suite 3443 New York, NY 10048 Phone: (212) 432–0433 Midwest: 303 E. Wacker Dr., Suite 400 Chicago, IL 60601 Phone: (312) 819-3990 West: 3440 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 1100
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Los Angeles, CA 90010 Phone: (213) 382–2353
Publications Bangkok’s two major English-language daily newspapers are both available online: The Bangkok Post. [Online] Available http:// www.bangkokpost.com.net/ (accessed October 12, 1999). The Nation. [Online] Available http:// www.nationmultimedia.com/ (accessed October 12, 1999).
Books Bailey, Donna. Thailand. Austin, TX: SteckVaughn, 1992. Buckley, Michael. Bangkok Handbook. 2nd ed. Chico, CA: Moon Publications, 1995. Cooper, Robert and Nanthapa Cooper. Culture Shock!: Thailand & How to Survive It. Portland, OR: Graphic Arts Center Publishing Company, 1991. Hoskin, John. Bangkok. Lincolnwood, IL: Passport Books, 1991. McNair, Sylvia. Bangkok. New York: Children's Press, 1999. Ringis, Rita. Elephants of Thailand in Myth, Art, and Reality. New York: Oxford Univ. Press, 1996. Segaller, Denis, Thai Ways. Bangkok: Bangkok Post Books, 1998. Wyatt, David, Thailand: A Short History. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1986.
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Beijing Beijing, Hebei Province, People’s Republic of China, Asia Founded: c. 723 B.C.; First Known as Beijing: 1421 Location: North China Plain Time Zone: 8 PM Chinese time=noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: Han, 96.2% Elevation: 30–40 m (100–130 ft) Latitude and Longitude: 39º55'N, 166º25'E Coastline: None Climate: Continental monsoon climate in a temperate zone, with long winters and hot, rainy summers Annual Mean Temperature: 12ºC (53ºF); January –4ºC (24ºF); July 26ºC (79ºF) Average Annual Precipitation: 635 mm (25 in) Government: Centrally administered by the national government Weights and Measures: Metric system, with some use of traditional Chinese units Monetary Units: Yuan (also called kuai); Monetary system called Renminbi (“people’s currency”) (abbreviation: Rmb) Telephone Area Codes: 10 (Beijing area code); 86 (China country code)
1
Introduction
Located on the North China Plain in the north-central part of the country, Beijing (also known as Peking) is the capital of the People’s Republic of China and its second-largest city. As the political and cultural center of one of the world’s largest and oldest countries almost continuously for nearly 800 years, Beijing has had a colorful and fascinating history, from its days as the aristocratic imperial “center of the world” to revolution, foreign occupation, and civil war in the twentieth century. During the last two decades of the twentieth century, Beijing was transformed yet again, as the economic liberalization and modernization of the post-Mao Zedong era turned the for-
merly austere Communist capital into a bustling commercial metropolis and tourist center and home to a thriving consumer economy. (Mao Zedong, 1893–1976, was the founder of the People’s Republic of China and ruled from 1949 to 1959, but he remained chairman of the politburo until his death.) 2
Getting There
Beijing is situated in the southern part of the North China Plain, with the Taihang and Yanshan mountains to the north and west and a flat plain to the southeast, leading to the Bohai Sea, where the five rivers that run through the city come together and empty out. About two-thirds of the city’s total land area is hilly.
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Beijing
Beijing Population Profile City Proper Population: 6–8 million Area: 750 sq km (290 sq mi) Nicknames: The Celestial City, The Northern Capital, The Center of the World
Metropolitan Area Population: 12,033,000 Description: Beijing Administrative Zone, which includes the city and its outskirt Area: 16,800 sq km (6,486 sq mi) World population rank1: 12 Percentage of national population2: 0.9% Average yearly growth rate: 1.3% Ethnic composition: 96.2% Han; 3.8% Manchu, Mongolian, Hui, and 52 other groups ——— 1. The Beijing metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of China’s total population living in the Beijing metropolitan area.
Highways Highways radiate outward in all directions from Beijing: northeast to Chengdo; eastward to Tangshan; southeast to Tanggu and Tianjin; southward to Hengshui, Baoding, and Shijiazhuang; southwest to Laiyuan; and northwest to Zhangliahou. Bus and Railroad Service Trains are the most commonly used mode of passenger transportation in China, and Beijing is the nation’s rail hub, serving as the terminus for many rail lines. Service is provided between Beijing and all Chinese provinces
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except Tibet. Beijing has four main train stations, of which the largest is the recently built West station in the southwest part of the city. Nearly every city in China, as well as many towns, can be reached from Beijing by train. Long-distance bus service is used primarily to travel between Beijing and its suburbs, or to nearby cities. However, some bus lines travel as far as Shanghai or Qungdao. Airports Beijing Capital Airport, located about 30 kilometers (19 miles) northwest of the central city, is China’s major international airport. Its domestic and international terminals are located in the same building, with a new international terminal under construction. Scheduled flights connect Beijing with Shanghai, Canton, and all other major Chinese cities and tourist sites. There are direct flights to many international capitals, including New York, Los Angeles, London, Paris, Rome, Tokyo, and Berlin. Nanyuan Airport, south of Beijing, is used for domestic flights. 3
Getting Around
Beijing’s central city retains its carefully planned historic layout, arranged around a central north-south axis seven-and-a-half kilometers (five miles) long that passes through the city’s entire central core, from the Bell Tower and Drum Tower in the north, through the Forbidden City at the center, to the site of the former Yung-ting Gate in the south. This central core is
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Beijing
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Beijing actually the remnant of two adjoining walled cities, whose outlines are retained although their walls are long gone—a roughly square-shaped “inner” city to the north and a rectangular “outer” city to the south. Bus and Commuter Rail Service Buses are the most popular means of transportation in Beijing. The city has over 200 bus and trolley routes, and the buses are always packed. They run every five to ten minutes, from 5:00 or 5:30 in the morning until 10:00 or 11:00 at night. Tickets, which are inexpensive, are purchased after the passenger has boarded the bus, and the fare varies according to the distance traveled. Minibuses are also available, primarily for traveling to tourist attractions or railway stations. Beijing has two subway lines, the east-west First Line, which runs from the western suburb of Xidan to the center of the city (and is slated to be extended to the eastern suburbs), and the Circle Line, which follows a circular route that corresponds to the former location of Beijing’s original city walls. The subway is faster and less crowded than the bus lines but does not travel to all spots in the city. Taxicabs have become increasingly popular in the past decade, and it is now easy to hail one of the many cabs that cruise the city streets and offer a convenient but relatively inexpensive alternative to the bus or subway.
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Sightseeing Organized tours are offered by China’s tourism agencies, of which the two major ones are the China International Travel Service (CITS) and the China Travel Service (CTS). CITS offers a variety of “Dragon Tours,” which include such attractions as the Great Wall, Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City, the Summer Palace, the Beijing Zoo, and rickshaw rides. 4
People
Beijing grew rapidly in the twentieth century, especially after the Communist revolution of 1949. Today the Beijing metropolitan area has a population of more than 12 million people. Between six and eight million live in the city proper, and the rest in the surrounding area. The population of the central city has also been expanded by the presence of more than three million transient workers from other areas. Officially, 56 different ethnic groups are recognized in Beijing; however, an overwhelming majority of the population (96.2 percent) belongs to the Han ethnic group. The remainder are divided among the 55 other ethnicities, of which the most populous are the Manchus, Hui, and Mongolians. Several ethnic groups live in their own neighborhoods, with special facilities for observing their traditional cultural practices.
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Beijing
City Fact Comparison Beijing (China)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
New York (United States)
Population of urban area1
12,033,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
16,626,000
Date the city was founded
723 BC
753 BC
1613
Indicator
AD
969
2
Daily costs to visit the city Hotel (single occupancy)
$129
$193
$172
$198
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$62
$56
$59
$44
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$16
$14
$15
$26
$207
$173
$246
$244
11
13
20
10
Renmin Ribao
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
The Wall Street Journal
3,000,000
1,159,339
754,930
1,740,450
1948
1944
1976
1889
Total daily costs (hotel, meals, incidentals) Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established 1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
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Neighborhoods
Greater Beijing is a vast metropolitan area of 16,800 square kilometers (6,486 square miles), first carved out under an imperial government centuries ago. Its unity has been preserved by the People’s Republic, and today it is divided into ten districts (ch’u) and eight counties (hsien), which can be delineated into three concentric areas. The central one is the Old City, encompassing four of the ch’u; this is the area originally enclosed by the city walls. It is further divided into the Inner and Outer Cities, two adjacent areas with the Outer City to the south. At the
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heart of the Inner City lies the Forbidden City, a historic district that is the former home of China’s emperors. The Outer City consists mostly of residential and commercial areas and parks. Encircling the central city is the zone of inner suburbs that accounts for five of the remaining ch’u. It is home to government buildings, schools, factories, and workers’ residences, and its outer belt is cultivated to provide the city with a local supply of fresh produce. The Beijing and Qinghua universities lie in the northwest suburbs of this region.
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Beijing
Tiananmen Square. (Timothy Eagan; Woodfin Camp)
Beijing’s outermost, or far suburban, zone is made up of the one remaining ch’u and the eight hsien, or rural counties. This district consists largely of farmland and supplies the city with agricultural products, as well as coal, lumber, water, and other basic necessities. Its residential areas are primarily country towns. 6
History
The Beijing area is known to have been inhabited by prehistoric humans (Homo erectus pekinensis, or Beijing man) approximately 500,000 years ago. The
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earliest recorded settlement, in what is now southwest Beijing, dates back to around 1045 B.C. By 453–221 B.C. (the “Warring States” period), the site was home to a city called Ji, which was the capital of the Yan Kingdom. In 1215, the city at the site of present-day Beijing was torched by the Mongol conqueror Genghis Khan (1162–1227), who built a new city called Dadu (“Great Capital”), or Khanbaliq. Later in the thirteenth century, under the rule of Kublai Khan (1215– 1294), it became the capital of a vast empire, and it has been China’s
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Beijing national capital almost continuously ever since. It was renamed Beiping (“Northern Peace”) at the beginning of the Ming dynasty (1368–1644). In 1421, the third Ming emperor, Yongle, made the city his capital, and it assumed its present name of Beijing (“Northern Capital”). It was during this period that the present grid pattern of the central city was established, arranged around a north-south axis centering on the Imperial Palace. The city’s design followed the traditional architectural principles of feng shui, a system of using space in a way intended to achieve maximum harmony between the human and natural worlds. In 1553 walls went up around the “outer city” to the south, enclosing suburbs that had grown up adjacent to the original city. Under the Qing dynasty of the Manchus (1644–1911), Beijing underwent substantial renovation and expansion although the basic character of the city during the Ming period was largely preserved. The last century of Manchu rule was a period of foreign encroachment from without and political instability within. The city of Beijing was captured by French and British forces during the second Opium War (1858– 60), and the Summer Palaces were burned down. Foreign forces attacked the city during the Boxer Rebellion (1898–1900) at the turn of the twentieth century, destroying many of its artistic and historical treasures. Beijing remained at the center of Chinese history following the 1911 revolution that ended Chinese imperial rule and placed
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the nationalist Kuomintang in power. At the conclusion of World War I (1914–18), it was the site of a historic demonstration in Tiananmen Square, opposing Chinese capitulation to the terms of the Versailles Treaty (signed in 1919, the Versailles Treaty officially ended World War I). Military and political developments in the second quarter of the twentieth century affected the status of Beijing. Fighting to regain control of the country from the warlords who had seized power shortly after the revolution of 1911, the Kuomintang (the Chinese Nationalist Party), under Chiang Kaishek, moved its capital to Nanjing in 1928 and renamed Beijing, calling it Beiping (“Northern Peace” instead of “Northern Capital”). In 1937 the Japanese seized control of the city when they invaded China, and it remained under occupation until the end of World War II (1939–45), with Chungking serving as the temporary Nationalist capital during the bitter warfare of that period. Beijing was retaken and held by the Kuomintang during the ensuing civil war, but the city finally fell to the Communists under the leadership of Mao Zedong (1893–1976) in January, 1949, and became the capital of the People’s Republic of China the following October, regaining its former name and its position as the nation’s political, cultural, and financial hub. Under Mao’s leadership, the city underwent modernization, as streets were widened, vestiges of imperial rule were demolished, and technical advisers from the Union of Soviet Socialist
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Beijing
The Summer Palace, featuring traditional Chinese gardening, was burned down by the allied forces of Great Britain and France in the second Opium War (1858–60). (Mike Yamashita; Woodfin Camp)
Republics (U.S.S.R.) introduced examples of Soviet-style architecture. From 1966 to the late 1970s, life in Beijing, as elsewhere in China, was dramatically affected by the Cultural Revolution. Beijing’s Tiananmen Square was the site of the 1976 demonstration, honoring deceased political leader Zhou Enlai, that marked the beginning of the end for this disastrous campaign of political repression. For the final time in the twentieth century, Beijing’s Tiananmen Square became the stage for a major political
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event, as the student-led pro-democracy movement was crushed there in the spring of 1989, accentuating the disparity between the country’s economic reforms and its continuing level of political repression. Although China’s human rights record continues to draw criticism from abroad and dissent at home, the economic liberalization of the past two decades has changed the face of its capital, with the construction of skyscrapers, the proliferation of the services and conveniences that characterize a modern consumer economy, and the exponential growth of tourism.
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Beijing 7
Government
Although it has its own elected and appointed government officials, Beijing is one of three municipalities in China (the other two are Tientsin and Shanghai) that are ultimately under the control of the national government rather than the surrounding province (in the case of Beijing, this is Hebei Province). For administrative purposes, the urban and suburban parts of Beijing are divided into ten districts (ch’n; four urban and six suburban), and the surrounding rural areas of the municipality are divided into eight counties (hsien). The major governing body at the municipal level is the People’s Congress of Beijing Municipality, which has budget, taxation, and administrative responsibilities. Its members also elect the officials of the executive branch. Known as the Beijing People’s Government, it consists of a mayor, several vice mayors, and the heads of various bureaus. Each district has its own mayor, and within each district some civic duties are assumed at the neighborhood level as well. As China’s national capital, Beijing is also home to almost all major government institutions, including the National People’s Congress and the State Council. 8
Public Safety
Violent crime is relatively rare in Beijing, but petty theft is common. Pickpockets like to target crowds, espe-
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cially crowds of tourists, and grab bags and wallets, or use knives or razors to slit open bags and steal their contents. Most crimes are handled by the Public Security Bureau, which apprehends, prosecutes, and sentences criminals. Beijing’s districts have their own police jurisdictions, with a number of substations, or precincts, to each district. Crimes involving illegal drugs are prosecuted harshly. 9
Economy
Since the Communist revolution of 1949, Beijing has become one of the nation’s industrial centers. In the 1950s and 1960s, the Chinese government funded major development of heavy industry in the city, led by the modernization of the Shih-ching-shan Iron and Steel Works, which is now one of the country’s major steel-producing facilities. Today Beijing ranks second only to Shanghai in industrialization, with highly developed machinery, textile, and petrochemical sectors. Agriculture also plays a significant role in Beijing’s economy, with a large farming belt on the city’s periphery serving to reduce its dependence on food supplies shipped in from the Yangtze Valley. Beijing has a rapidly growing service sector, consisting mostly of government agencies. The People’s Bank of China, the major institution in China’s centralized banking system, has its head office in central Beijing, which is also home to a variety of specialized banks, including the Industrial and Commercial Bank of China and the
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Beijing Agricultural Bank of China. Other financial institutions in the city include major insurance companies, credit cooperatives, securities firms, and investment companies. Wholesale and retail commerce and tourism also play a major role in the city’s economy. The free-market economic reforms of the 1990s created an economic boom for Beijing with the influx of foreign capital and technology. 10
Environment
Like other cities throughout the world, Beijing has paid an environmental price for its twentieth-century economic and technological progress. The heavy industrialization introduced in the 1950s brought with it air pollution, which the government has addressed by relocating factories to the outskirts of the municipality and using natural gas instead of coal as a heating fuel. However, the growing number of motor vehicles in the city has created a new threat to Beijing’s air quality. In response, the government has undertaken highway improvement programs in an effort to relieve traffic congestion, but the new roads have quickly become crowded as cars and taxis replace bicycles and buses. Growing consumer affluence and the corresponding increase in the use of modern appliances and other conveniences have led to increased energy use, as well as waste from disposable packaging.
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Shopping
Beijing’s main shopping thoroughfare, Wangfujing Market Street, attracts some 100,000 customers every day. Anchored by the Beijing Department Store, its mostly state-operated retailers include other department stores, bookshops and other specialty stores, as well as the Dong’an Mall. Major additions and renovations are slated for completion around 2000. Although renovated in the 1980s, Liulichang Street still has the appearance of a market street from the Qing Dynasty. Its shops are known for their selection of antiques, rare books, calligraphy, and arts and crafts. In the Qianmen district south of Tiananmen Square, street vendors sell foods, traditional Chinese medicine, and a colorful variety of consumer goods, from bamboo streamers to suitcases. Traditional markets, such as the Hongqiao Market and the Guanyuan Market, offer an eclectic selection of goods, ranging from food to furniture to songbirds. Another traditional shopping venue is the temple fair. Traditionally these fairs, featuring vendors and entertainment, were held at Beijing’s temples during various religious festivals. The custom has been revived, but only during the Spring Festival. Among the most popular items sought by visitors to China are antiques, carpets, silk products, furniture, jewelry, paintings, calligraphy, and porcelain.
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Beijing 12
Education
The educational system in Beijing, as elsewhere in China, consists of six years of universal primary education and six years of secondary education. In addition, both the government and a number of private groups operate nurseries and kindergartens for younger children to make it easier for their mothers to work. The early years of primary education emphasize reading, writing, and arithmetic, with history, geography, and science added in the later years. There are three types of secondary schools: general middle schools, which offer college-preparatory courses; normal schools, which prepare students to attend teacher training colleges; and vocational and technical schools. As home to both Beijing University and Qinghua University, Beijing is an important center for higher education in China. Beijing University, founded in 1898, was relocated from its original site in the central city to a new campus that has been significantly expanded to accommodate one of China’s largest universities. With six schools, 31 departments, and 44 research centers, Qinghua University is China’s premier technical institute and one of the country’s major centers for scientific and technical research and development. The northwestern edge of the city, home to both Beijing University and Qinghua University, has become a major educational and research district that is also home to the People’s University of China, the Central Institute of Nationalities, the Beijing Normal
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College, the Beijing Medical College, and the Central Conservatory of Music, as well as institutes specializing in aeronautics, petroleum production, forestry, agriculture, and other fields. 13
Health Care
Medical education and practice in China combines Western medicine with traditional Chinese practices, notably the use of herbal medicine and acupuncture. Beijing’s largest hospital is Capital Hospital, founded in 1921 as Beijing Union Hospital. Today it combines a general hospital with pediatric and gynecological clinics. Many hospitals have been built in Beijing since 1949; a large number are affiliated with medical schools as clinical teaching institutions. The city’s major pediatric facility is the new Beijing Children’s Hospital, located near the site of the Fuhsing Gate. Beijing has a number of specialty hospitals, including facilities devoted to orthopedic, chest, plastic, and traumarelated surgery. 14
Media
Two daily national newspapers are published in Beijing: Renmin Ribao (People’s Daily), the official newspaper of the Chinese Communist Party, which had a 1998 circulation of approximately three million, and Gongren Ribao (Worker’s Daily), which had a 1998 circulation of approximately 2.5 million. Other major daily papers published in the capital (with 1998 circulation figures) are Nongmin Ribao (Peasant’s Daily;
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Beijing one million); Zhongguo Qingnian Bao (China Youth News; one million); Beijing Ribao (Beijing Daily; 700,000); Beijing Wanbao (Beijing Evening News; 800,000); and Guangming Ribao (Guangming Daily; 950,000). China Daily is an English-language newspaper published by the Chinese government (1998 circulation 150,000), and the Economic Daily is a daily business paper. Radio broadcasts are under the control of the Central People’s Broadcasting Station (CPBS). Programs are aired in the official Chinese dialect of putonghua, as well as local dialects and minority ethnic languages. Two television stations (CCTV 1 and 2) are operated by Chinese Central Television, and three more are operated by Beijing Television (BTV). 15
Sports
Located in the eastern part of the city, the Beijing Workers’ Stadium is China’s largest sports facility, seating 80,000 for soccer (the country’s most popular sport) and track and field events. Facilities for table tennis and other indoor games are available at the capital Gymnasium in western Beijing, which also accommodates an indoor ice rink for hockey and figure skating. The indoor sport of basketball has become quite popular among the Chinese in the winter months, and the country now has two professional basketball leagues. Martial arts retain their traditional popularity, with demonstrations provided at the Asian Games Village. Beijing also has a golf course and a race-
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track, where spectators can place bets although other types of gambling are illegal in China. 16
Parks and Recreation
Beijing’s history as a gracious imperial city can be seen in its parks and outdoor recreational areas, which are more numerous than those in most other Chinese cities. The most centrally located is Chung-shan Park, adjacent to the west wall of Tiananmen Square. With pavilions, kiosks, and other structures scattered amid pools, flower gardens, willow trees, and bamboo, the park constitutes a characteristic Chinese garden landscape that includes a pavilion built over a lotus pond. This park is also the site of an ancient altar and the Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall (formerly a religious shrine), which is over 500 years old—Beijing’s oldest wooden building. Ching-shan Park, also called Meishan (or Coal Hill) Park, extends over an artificial hill north of the Forbidden City. The park, which affords a dramatic view of the city, is also home to the educational and recreational facilities of the Beijing Children’s Palace, located at its northern end. Half of Pei Hai Park’s 71 hectares (176 acres) consist of water, making this park a favorite with rowers in summer and ice skaters in winter. A number of cultural and educational facilities, including the Beijing Library, are located within its boundaries. The Summer Palace is the largest park on the outskirts of the city. K’unming Lake occupies four-fifths of the
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Beijing
A giant panda bear naps in the Beijing Zoological Gardens, China’s largest zoo. (Israel Talby; Woodfin Camp)
park’s 324 hectares (800 acres), with the rest consisting of artificial landscaping. There are more than 100 buildings in the park, as well as elaborate covered promenades connecting its lakefront sites. The Beijing Zoological Gardens at the western edge of the city is China’s largest zoo and is home to animals from all over China and the world. The zoo is especially famous for its giant panda bears. Popular outdoor activities in Beijing include tennis, golf, miniature golf, badminton, squash, horseback riding, kite flying, martial arts, swim-
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ming, and the contemporary sport of paintball. 17
Performing Arts
Beijing has traditionally been the cultural and educational capital of China, a legacy that dates back to the Ming dynasty. The political upheavals of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries led to a decline in the traditional Chinese arts, which reached a low point during the Cultural Revolution of the 1960s and 1970s. Since the late 1970s, however, government support for the arts has revived, and Beijing has
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Beijing become an active venue for both traditional Chinese and Western performing arts. Classical concerts by both Chinese and foreign artists can be heard at the Beijing Concert Hall, and the capital has its own symphony orchestra. The Central Ballet of China performs both foreign and Chinese works on several different stages. Chinese folk dance is performed by the Oriental Song and Dance Ensemble. The traditional Beijing Opera was revived in the 1990s although it has been popular primarily among China’s older residents. There are more than 25 theaters in Beijing, and theatrical presentations range from the works of British playwright William Shakespeare (1564– 1616) to American dramatist Arthur Miller (b. 1915) to contemporary avant garde Chinese works. The major theatrical venues are the Capital Theater and the Central Academy of Drama Experimental Theatre. The traditional performing arts of puppetry and acrobatics remain very popular. 18
Libraries and Museums
The Beijing Library, located within Pei Hai Park, is home to the history collections of China’s National Library, including material from imperial libraries dating back to the Sung, Ming, and Ch’ing dynasties. The collections include ancient books and manuscripts, maps, and rubbings from historic inscriptions. Since the late 1980s, the library’s modern holdings have been
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housed in a new building at the western edge of the city. Beijing’s largest collection of artistic treasures—including stone and ivory carvings, enamel work, metal work, embroidery, and porcelain—is housed in the Palace Museum, located within the Imperial Palace. The original decor of many of the rooms has been preserved, constituting an additional artistic and historic attraction. The artifacts in the Museum of Chinese History, located adjacent to Tiananmen Square, chart the progress of Chinese history over the past 4,000 years, from its ancient civilizations through its dynastic periods. Its collection includes thousands of artworks, relics, and scientific inventions. Located in one of its wings is the Museum of the Chinese Revolution, which traces the history of the Chinese Communist Party from its origins through the revolutionary and civil war periods leading up to 1949. The China National Art Gallery displays traditional calligraphy and watercolors, as well as temporary exhibits of works by contemporary Chinese artists. Beijing also has museums devoted to military history, imperial archives, and natural history, as well as the China’s first planetarium, with an adjacent observatory and meteorological station. The former residence of acclaimed author Lu Xun (1881–1936) has been turned into a museum, displaying photographs and documents related to his life.
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Beijing
To u r i s m
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In recent decades, Beijing’s tourist industry has grown rapidly to become an important sector of the city’s economy, thanks to the historical and cultural attractions of the central city itself and those found in outlying areas, such as the Great Wall, the tombs containing the remains of 13 of the 16 Ming emperors, and the sites where Beijing man and other prehistoric human remains have been found. The influx of visitors has spurred new hotel construction and the renovation of existing facilities. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY–FEBRUARY Spring Festival (celebrated in many Asian nations as Lunar New Year, and known in the United States as Chinese New Year)
MARCH International Working Women’s Day
APRIL
The Great Wall is one of China’s greatest tourist attractions. (Mike Yamashita; Woodfin Camp)
Qingming
MAY
OCTOBER
International Labor Day Youth Day
National Day
JUNE
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International Children’s Day
JULY Anniversary of the Founding of the Chinese Communist Party
JULY-AUGUST Dragon Boat Festival
AUGUST Anniversary of the People’s Liberation Army
SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER Mid-Autumn Festival
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Famous Citizens
Cao Zhan (1715–1763), author of China’s most famous novel, Dream of the Red Chamber. Deng Xiaoping (1904–1997), political leader. Ding Ling (1904–1986), short story writer. Lao She (1899–1966), satirical novelist.
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Beijing Li Dazhou (1888–1927), co-founder of the Chinese Communist Party. Lu Xun (1881–1936), author. Mao Zedong (1893–1976), Chinese Communist leader. Zhang Tianyi (b. 1907), short story writer and novelist. Zhang Yimou (b. 1950), film director. Zhou Enlai (1898–1976), Chinese premier. Zhou Zuoren (1885–1996), essayist and scholar. 22
For Further Study
Websites Beijing Centre for Planning, “”Beijing Window.” [Online] Available http://www.china.org.cn/ AcrossCountry/Beijing_w/beijing/ indexe.htm (accessed April 14, 2000). China Travel System [Online] Available http:// www.beijing.chinats.com (accessed December 30, 1999). Excite Travel, “Destination: China.” [Online] Available http://www.excite.cm/travel/ countries/china/beijing (accessed December 30, 1999).
Government Offices Ministry of Supervision 4 Zaojunmiao Haidian Qu Beijing 100081 State Development and Planning Commission 38 Yuetannan Jie Xicheng Qu Beijing 100824
Tourist and Convention Bureaus China International Travel Service (CITS) 103 Fu Xing Men Nei Dajie Beijing 100800
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China Travel Service (CTS) Beijing Tourist Building 28 Jianguomenwai Dajie, 100022 State Bureau of Tourism Jie 3 Jian Guo Men Nei Dajie Beijing 100740
Publications China Daily 15 Huixin Dongjie Chaoyang District, 100029 Gongren Ribao Liupukeng Andingmen Wai Nongmin Ribao 61 Guxing Lu Renmin Ribao 2 Jin Tai Xi Lu
Books Baldwin, Robert F. Daily Life in Ancient and Modern Beijing. Illustrations by Ray Webb. Minneapolis: Runestone Press, 1999. Cohn, Don, and Zhang Jingqing Beijingwalks. New York: H. Holt, 1992. Elder, Chris, ed. Old Peking: City of the Ruler of the World. New York: Oxford University Press, 1997. Lin, Yutang. Imperial Peking. New York: Crown Publishers, 1961. Lindesay, William, and Wu Qi. Beijing. Lincolnwood, IL: Passport Books, 1997. Meyer, Jeffrey F. The Dragons of Tiananmen: Beijing as a Sacred City. Columbia, SC: University of South Carolina Press, 1991. Salisbury, Harrison Evans. Tiananmen Diary: Thirteen Days in June. Boston: Little, Brown, 1989. Shi, Tianjian. Political Participation in Beijing. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1997. Sit, Victor F.S. Beijing: The Nature and Planning of a Chinese Capital City. New York: Wiley, 1995. Strand, David. Rickshaw Beijing: City People and Politics in the 1920s. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1989.
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Berlin Berlin, Germany, Europe Founded: October 28, 1237 Location: Europe, northeastern Germany, on the River Spree Flag: A white field with a red stripe on top and bottom; the Berlin bear rests in the center. Time Zone: 1 PM = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: 23% of the foreign residents in Germany live in Hamburg and Berlin, including a large population of Turkish immigrants. Elevation: 34 meters above sea level. Berlin lies on a huge plain in the northeast corner of Germany, comprising 833 square kilometers. Latitude and Longitude: 52°31’ N, 13°25’ E Coastline: None Climate: Mild summers and wet winters. Annual Mean Temperature: 47°F (8°C); in January: 31°F (-1°C); in July: 66°F (19°C). It either rains or snows in Berlin during 91 days of the year. Its placement on the European continent, with the Atlantic Ocean to the west and the Baltic Sea above, make the city subject to the prevailing winds from across the water, carrying moisture to the land. Average Annual Precipitation: 23 inches Government: A parliament, senate and mayor Weights and Measures: Metric Monetary Units: 1 deutsch mark = 100 pfennige Telephone Area Code: Germany country code: 49; Berlin code: 30 Postal Codes: 10000–12527, 12531–14199
1
Introduction
The political home of Germany’s Federal Government and the educational center of Germany, Berlin is the nation’s capital and busiest city. Although major reconstruction projects have helped make Berlin an attractive, modern city, the shadows of World War II (1939–45) and the Berlin Wall still darken its recent history. This is the seat of German power, where Adolf Hitler (1889–1945) gained control in 1933 by marching through the Brandenburg Gate and taking over parliament in the
Reichtags building. After World War II, Berlin turned into a Cold War battleground, separated into a Soviet-influenced East and an American-influenced West by the Berlin Wall in 1966. But, there are startling contrasts to war in Berlin, such as the intellectual and scientific blossoming of the Enlightenment during the 1700s and “golden” 1920s of the twentieth century. Always a cultural center, Berlin has continued this tradition with many museums and theaters, while Berlin’s trade associations employ the majority of the work-
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Berlin where transportation lines lead directly into all sections of the continent.
Berlin Population Profile Population: 3,337,000 Area: 883 sq km (340 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 95.1% German; 2.3% Turkish; 0.7% Italian; 0.4% Greek; 0.4Polish; 1.1% other Area: Area within city limits, including the western Kurfürstendamm and the eastern Alexanderplatz, plus Spandau, Marzahn, Hellersdorf, Grunewald, Frohnau, and Westend World population rank1: 85 Percentage of total country population2: 4.0% Average yearly growth rate: 0.1% Nicknames: Divided City; Venice of the North; the name Berlin means “bog” in Slavic, so called because of the swamps surrounding the city. ——— 1. The Berlin metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of Germany’s total population living in the Berlin metropolitan area.
force with apprenticeships permanent jobs. 2
and
Getting There
Berlin is located in the northeastern corner of Germany on the banks of the river Spree. On the South Bank, along the Strasse des 17 Juni, monuments like the Berlin Zoo, Tiergarten, Brandenburg Gate, Reichstag, and Schloss Bellevue draw tourists. Numerous transportation projects are currently under way, modernizing and extending the existing system, and connecting the former East and West Berlin into one community. The city is also seen as something of a gateway between Eastern and Western Europe,
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Highways Berlin’s urban motorway is the A100, while the six-lane A113 travels along the Teltow Canal. Bus and Railroad Service High speed trains, such as the Inter City Express (ICE) and the Euro City (EC) operate to and from Berlin, but in 2005 the Transrapid magnetic levitation train will make travel even faster between Hamburg and Berlin (the two largest cities in Germany). There have been some problems finding funds to install the Transrapid, which have delayed the opening. Lehrter Bahnhof is the major train station in Berlin, which is located in the government precinct, right next to the Chancellery. From this train station, a passenger will be able travel directly to any location on the continent. Airports The Tegel airport is the main international airport in western Berlin, closely followed by Shonefeld in the east. These airports will soon be complemented by the new Berlin-Brandenburg International Airport (BBI), slated for completion in 2007. Major airlines, such as Air France, Austrian Airlines, British Airways, Delta, KLM, Lufthansa, and Pan Am, operate in Berlin.
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Berlin
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Berlin 3
Getting Around
The city of Greater Berlin was laid out in its present form in 1920, divided down the middle into North and South banks by the river Spree, and into Eastern and Western sections by the former Berlin wall. Some major roads that run through the city are the Strasse des 17 Juni, Kurfurstendamm, Potsdamer, Friedrich, and Unter den Linden. These roads are lined with historical buildings and cultural venues that are easily accessible by the underground railways. Bus and Commuter Rail Service The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG—Berlin Public Transportation) in Berlin has attempted to lessen noise, pollution, and traffic by strengthening the public transportation service. Bus service is less convenient than using the trams (which run mostly in eastern Berlin) and quick underground railways. The suburban railway network, “Sbahn” and “U-bahn,” consists of 300 kilometers (186 miles) of track which runs around in circles under the city. The U5 travels from east to west while the U6 travels north to south.
River. Potsdamer Platz, in the center of the city, holds the State Library, National Gallery, and Philharmonic Concert Hall. Tour boats travel on the many lakes and canals around the city. 4
The population of Berlin in 1999 amounted to more than 4.3 million, but this figure has been declining since the 1970s, in part because the birthrate is one of the lowest in the world. Only ten-and-a-half births occur per 1,000 inhabitants during a given year. However, an increasing number of foreigners have been settling in Berlin due to recently loosened immigration laws and easier citizenship requirements. Nearly 500,000 foreigners live in what has been called the most international city in Germany, including Turks, Russians, Poles, and others. Despite the mixture of cultures the official language of the people is High German, which came into common usage after Martin Luther’s translation of the bible in the sixteenth century. There is also a residual split between East Germans, or “Ossis,” and West Germans, who are called “Wessis.”
Sightseeing Many of Berlin’s sights are within walking distance of the public transportation system, including the boulevard Unter den Linden which starts at Brandenburg Gate, continuing to the river, with the Tiergarten nearby. Museum Island is a popular place to view the extensive art collections of Berlin, which is actually located in the Spree
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People
5
Neighborhoods
The center of Berlin is marked by the Reichstag, or Deutscher BundestagPlenarbereich Reichstagsgebäude (German Federal Assembly-Plenary Area, Imperial Assembly Building), which was renamed to symbolize a break with the city’s Nazi history. The Brandenburg Tor, or Gate, is the doorway from West
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Berlin
City Fact Comparison Berlin (Germany)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
3,337,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
28 October 1237
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$118
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$66
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$16
$14
$15
$16
$200
$173
$246
$207
8
13
20
11
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
Total daily costs (hotel, meals, incidentals) Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
Akhbar El Yom/ Berliner Zeitung Al Akhbar 370,000
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1877
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
to East, where the Berlin Wall crossed the city center before it was destroyed in November 1989. The eastern and western portions of the city differ greatly, with the western Kurfürstendamm, or Ku’damm, commercial center sporting all of the nicest shops and cafés while the eastern Alexanderplatz has been described as “depressing.” This should change soon because the greatest building activity in Germany is taking place in Berlin, improving the infrastructure that will link both sides of the city together again. Much of the population lives in the suburbs. Spandau, in the west of Berlin, is home to one of Berlin’s largest residential devel-
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opments, Wasserstadt Oberhavel on the banks of the Havel. Biesdorf-Süd, between Marzahn and Hellersdorf, houses 500,000 residents on the edge of the former East Berlin. The nicer neighborhoods lie around the lakes in the west, including the Grunewald, Frohnau, and Westend communities. The majority of Berliners rent housing and enjoy the idea of a local community, or the Kiez. Although Berlin has always been a popular place to live, more people are emigrating to nearby towns and cities than are moving into the capital city. The government has embarked upon a complete restructuring of surrounding communities
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Berlin century or more of separation, the administrations of these two towns merged in 1307 to fight against robber barons. These “noblemen” acted more like pirates, demanding huge tributes and terrorizing the populace, but without an army the citizens of Berlin could not fight back. By the year 1411, the town had asked the Holy Roman Emperor for protection, bringing in Fredrich von Hohenzollern, Burggraf of Nuremberg and his army. The Hohenzollerns ruled Berlin and most of Germany for centuries, conquering Prussia in 1640 and founding the German Reich in 1871. Traditionally the capital city and royal residence of the Hohenzollerns, Friedrich Wilhelm chose Berlin as his seat of power in the newly founded Prussia. Eight Friedrich Wilhelms followed his example, building the military and economic strength of Germany from Berlin. The changing skyline of Berlin. The reunification of Communist Germany has prompted rapid modernization. (Bernard Boutrit; Woodfin Camp)
designed to help draw back residents; it is expected to show results by the year 2010. 6
History
In 1237, the fishing community of Colln was first registered as a town located on the south bank of the Spree River. After 1244, opposite this settlement on the north bank, lay the larger merchant town of Berlin. Following a
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The Industrial Revolution (c. 1750) brought new factories and an influx of settlers to the city from the surrounding countryside. During the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, the city’s population reached more than four million, attracting both industry and culture. By 1871, Otto von Bismarck (1815–1898) and Wilhelm I (1797– 1888) succeeded where others had failed by bringing together Denmark, Austria, France, Prussia, and the German states into one empire, with Berlin as the capital. This was the first time that the German states were truly unified, but the German empire, which extended across Europe and into the
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Berlin
German cathedral, opera house, and French cathedral, the centerpiece of Frederick the Great. (Bernard Boutrit; Woodfin Camp)
colonies, still posed a military challenge. The shock of losing World War I (1914–18) caused riots in Berlin against the traditional imperial system, which was replaced by a democratic constitution in Weimar, in 1919. This political instability was accentuated by the economic problems, or Great Depression, of the “golden” 1920s, but Berlin seemed to flower under pressure. Ironically, the city bloomed into the most popular gathering place for avant-garde artists, like Fritz Lang, Klaus Mann, and
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Bertolt Brecht. In 1933, Hitler ended the party by marching thousands of troops into Berlin and imposing military rule. The 1936 Olympic games in Berlin were sadly overshadowed by war preparations. When Hitler annexed Austria and part of Czechoslovakia in 1938, he also ordered the destruction of Jewish buildings in Berlin called Reichskristallnacht, or the night of the broken glass. The Nazis systematically killed approximately 50,000 Jews in concentration camps until World War II ended in 1945. Only two-and-a-half million of
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Berlin Berlin’s four million inhabitants were left after the fighting ended. Berlin was divided into four parts at first, with the Soviet Union, United States, Britain, and France overseeing the reconstruction. By 1948, the United States had claimed West Germany, and the Soviet Union had assumed control of East Germany, but Berlin’s location in the east caused problems. The democracies wanted to keep some hold on Berlin (the traditional power seat), so they proceeded to airlift food into the starved Soviet city. In 1961, the Soviets built a wall dividing the city in half, which remained until 1989. At this point, the western capital moved to Bonn while the Soviet occupiers stayed in Berlin. This artificial separation made reunification a happy occasion, but difficult economically and socially. In 1994, the last foreign troops left Berlin, signaling the end to 50 years of occupation and allowing the German government’s homecoming to Berlin in 1999. 7
Government
The city-state of Berlin’s political system consists of the mayor, the House of Representatives, or city Parliament, which is elected for four-year terms with a minimum of 150 representatives and public meetings, and the Senate. There are ten ministerial portfolios. The constitution written in 1950 for western Berlin has applied to eastern Berlin as well since 1991. The city is also the Federal Capital of Germany, with all major governmental offices located on the banks of the river Spree.
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8
Public Safety
The police force in Berlin consists of the general police for petty crimes, criminal police for serious crimes, alert forces for large-scale problems, and the river police. The Federal Criminal Police Office (BKA), which deals with criminals that operate across state boundaries, has one of its bases in Berlin and is also the national center for Interpol. The border patrol also operates along the Polish border, which lies only 100 kilometers (62 miles) away from Berlin. 9
Economy
Berlin began as a fishing and trading community, selling primarily rye and timber. This role in trade grew larger through the centuries as a disciplined military force protected foreign tradesmen and helped collect customs tariffs. The 1830s brought the Industrial Revolution to Berlin, which hastily built factories to produce machine tools, dyes, medicines, and electrical goods. AEG and Siemens had an early start in Berlin, fueling participation in both World Wars. The Great Depression brought economic chaos, but success in the arts, especially in film production. Although Berlin was devastated by the time World War II was over, major reconstruction projects funded by the victors helped to keep the economy going. Berlin continues to deal with ongoing reintegration of the West with the East, as well as an economy that is shifting from the processing to the service sector. Many companies relocated from
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Berlin
The Brandenburg Gate is the doorway from West to East, and signifies the difference between the western commercial center sporting all of the nicest shops and cafés and the eastern side described as “depressing.” (Bernard Boutrit; Woodfin Camp)
Berlin during the uncertain years after the war, but now Daimler-Benz, Sony, IBM-Germany, and German Rail have headquarters along the Spree. Berlin is one of Germany’s largest banking centers, the world’s leading conference center, the seat of Federal Government, and the largest university city in Germany (147,000 students) with three major universities. Half of the 1.6 million workers are in the service sector, and about 13 percent of the workforce is unemployed, but recent restructuring aims to lower this figure. Also, projects
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with the rest of the European Union, including monetary unification, have played an important role in stabilizing the Berlin economy. 10
Environment
The Social Democrat-Green Party coalition in Germany’s federal government gave environmentalists a strong say in policymaking at the end of the twentieth century. As the twenty-first century begins, the Federal Environmental Agency in Berlin hopes to pro-
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Berlin mote the efficient use of energy, to close substance cycles, and reverse land depletion trends, but the biggest problem comes from eastern industry. Lignite was the main source of energy in the former GDR, satisfying 70 percent of the east’s requirement, leading to massive pollution throughout Germany. Lignite is still the principal domestic source of energy, with reserves reaching 43 billion tons in the Rhineland. The alternative, nuclear power, has gained ridicule from environmentalists who see nuclear power plants as more of a danger than a viable resource. A number of rivers and lakes flow in and around Berlin, which are as polluted as the streets of the city. The administration’s energy policy hopes to reduce carbon dioxide emissions by 25 percent between 1990 and 2010, in part by building new, energy-efficient flats and limiting industrial pollutants. By 1995, carbon dioxide levels were down by ten percent. The Berlin Solar Campaign also hopes to bring solar energy, which can be used without creating harmful emissions, into widespread use. In recent years, flooding in Germany resulting from alternating El Niño and La Nina weather patterns and stimulated by global warming has washed away topsoil and endangered lives. It is hoped that with replanting and other soil conservation measures the land and forests will remain an important resource for generations to come. 11
Shopping
At the trendy Prenzlauer Berg, art galleries, cafés, and restaurants line the
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street. A large, new shopping mall has been built at Potsdamer Platz, a startling contrast to the eastern Alexanderplatz, which has barely been renovated since Soviet occupation. The Kurfürstendamm, or Ku’damm, is a threeand-a-half-kilometer (two-mile) strip of shops, movie theaters, bars, and cafés, including 6,500 pubs and restaurants. Ku’damm and Tauentzienstrasse in the West are the main shopping centers, along with Friedrichstrasse in the East. Shop hours are normally 9:30 AM to 8:00 PM Monday through Friday and 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM Saturday. Most shops are closed on Sunday, but more and more stores are opening their doors to customers all week long. Business is booming in the newly renovated capital of Germany, drawing customers and holiday travelers from around the world. A visitor can get a three-day pass on the underground in order to visit all the shopping centers without missing a store. 12
Education
Compulsory schooling begins for Berlin students at age seven and lasts for nine or ten years. Most children are tested at age ten for aptitude and then placed in a Hauptshule or Realshule for vocational trades, a Gymnasium for academics, or a comprehensive Gesamtschule, which teaches all trades. Those from the Gymnasium finish school with their abitur exams while children from the Realschule continue on to technical school, or Fachobershule, and polytechnic university, or Fachhochschule. Education through post-graduate work is free
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Berlin for all, including foreigners. There are three major universities in Berlin: Freie Universität Berlin with 61,000 students, Technische Universität Berlin with 38,000 students, and Humbolt Universität zu Berlin with 19,000 students. There are numerous other colleges that cater to more particular professions and trades. The guild system, which began during the middle ages in Germany, continues to some extent through the educational system which is geared towards satisfying the business community’s needs with apprenticeship and internship requirements in many fields. Berlin is also home to a large number of foreign students that come to the international city to learn the German language, as well as about the clash between western and eastern culture and the two world wars that took place largely on German and French soil. 13
Health Care
Everyone in Germany is entitled to health care, with benefits programs divided into two categories. Statutory insurance provides virtually free choice of doctors (on a quarterly basis), unlimited visits and checkups, prescription drug coverage with a co-payment, comprehensive dental visits, vision and hearing aids, mental health visits, monthly home allowances for the chronically ill, liberal maternity benefits, and disability pay. The government receives funds to pay for health care from employee taxes and public and private donations, but much of the money comes from government coffers. Partly as a result of comprehensive
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health care and the social welfare system, the German government’s debt has risen substantially. 14
Media
Die Welt is the only national German daily to move its headquarters from Bonn to Berlin and to add expanded coverage of the city. There are nearly 1,200 accredited correspondents in Bonn and Berlin, working for the following newspapers and magazines. The B.Z. has the largest circulation of the city with 298,500; the Berliner Zeitung comes next with 216,600; and the Berliner Morgenpost, Tagesspiegel, and Tages Zeitung also have extensive circulations. Magazines such as Der Spiegel and Focus are popular, but American and other European magazines can be found on most store shelves as well. 15
Sports
The Berlin New Year Run brings athletes out of doors for one of the largest sports events in the city. The Berliner SV 1892 rugby club, the Berlin Cricket Club—the Refugees—and ALBA Berlin basketball team—Albatros—comprise the major sports clubs. 16
Parks and Recreation
In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, Prussian Kings and German Emperors of the House of Hohenzollern transformed the Havel landscape into a series of parks, beginning a great tradition of German respect for nature. The
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Berlin
The National Theater is located in Academy Square in East Berlin, the music capital of Germany. (Sepp Seitz; Woodfin Camp)
center of these public works was in Potsdam, but this extended towards the Berlin royal palace and winter residence that were both destroyed during World War II. On King’s Road to Berlin, Glienicke Palace’s gardens contain a landscaped park, and Babelsberg Palace’s gothic buildings are surrounded by manicured land. In the center of Berlin, Unter den Linden is a nice boulevard to promenade, leading to the Zoologischer Garten and Tiergarten, which is a protected woodland. On Museum Island, a number of gardens also surround the museum district, making the island an
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attractive place to visit. The lakes and rivers throughout the city lend the opportunity to sightsee by boat and to enjoy nature and the great outdoors. 17
Performing Arts
Berlin is the music capital of Germany, named so because of the many opera houses and orchestras. There are three opera houses and five other orchestras, including the top-rated Deutsche Staatsoper Unter den Linden with international music director Daniel Barenboim and the Philhar-
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Berlin monic Hall, the Deutsche Oper Berlin, and the Komische Oper. The Musical Theatre Berlin, Theater des Westens, Friei Volksbühne Berlin, and Theater am Kurfürstendamm put on plays and musicals. To get a taste of cabaret-style entertainment, a visitor can go to Bar Jeder Vernunft-Spiegelpalast, the Wintergarten, and Chamäleon Variete. The Berlin Festival, Film Festival, and Theater make the city a gathering place for young artists in the progressive cultural scene. The nightlife is scattered with small club gatherings that feature live music, electronic music, and theatrical productions. On just about every street corner in the arts districts, street performers can be seen juggling, dancing, singing, painting, or playing an instrument. 18
Libraries and Museums
The Berlin Central and Regional Library is a fusion of the American House Library and the Berlin State Library which took place in 1995. The new Bundestag Library supports governmental officials. For business reference, the Science and Technology Center Berlin Adlershof (WISTA) contains a wealth of products and services in information technology in an integrated technology park just southeast of Berlin. For tourists, the New National Gallery contains works by Hals, Rembrandt, and Vermeer, as well as twentieth-century German art, especially Berlin portraits and cityscapes by Geroge Grosz and Otto Dix. The Pergamonmuseum contains classical artifacts
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and antiquities, such as Islamic art, a Pergamon Altar (160 B.C.), and a Babylonian Throne Room, located on Museum Island in the middle of the river Spree with the Bodemuseum. Finally, the Bauhaus Archive Design Museum holds works from the Bauhaus period, which lasted from 1919 to 1933. A three-day pass to these museums and more can be purchased from the German tourism board. 19
To u r i s m
More than six million tourists visit Berlin every year, making it one of the most popular cities in Europe. Volker Hassemer, managing director of the city’s marketing agency, claims that “If you want to see the past, go to Rome. If you want to see the future, come to Berlin.” The city is undergoing massive reconstruction, with some of the most advanced architecture in the world. Hanover Expo 2000 set out to prove to the world that Germany has not only recovered from World War II but thrived on foreign investment and European protection. Nevertheless, many tourists still come to see historical monuments, including Haus am Checkpoint Charlie, the Berlin Wall memorial, the Fernsehturm (TV tower) which gives a spectacular view of the city, the Reichtags building, and Brandenburg Gate. A number of companies offer walking tours of the city, as well as boating excursions on the river Spree.
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Berlin 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Berlin New Year’s Run Unter den Linden
FEBRUARY Berlinale Annual International Film Festival
JULY Love Parade (techno and rave party with a procession through Berlin)
OCTOBER Jazz Festival Berlin Deutschland Festival (street procession Unter den Linden with presentations by German states)
NOVEMBER International Riding and Jumping Tournament in the Deutschlandhalle Anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall “NovaEuropa—New Europe” Festival (European dance festival)
21
Famous Citizens
Otto Hahn (1879–1968), physical chemist, discovered the radioactive protactinium in Berlin with Lisa Meitner. Alexander von Humboldt (1769–1859), baron, naturalist, and traveler.
Party, first woman named as senior member of the Bundestag. Max Planck (1858–1947), theoretical physicist, formulator of the quantum theory. Rudolf Schoenheimer (1898–1941), biochemist. Louise Schroder (1887–1957), committed socialist, first woman to be called “Mother of Berlin” in the late 1940s. 22
For Further Study
Websites Berlin Central and Regional Library. [Online] Available http://www.zlb.de/ (accessed April 14, 2000). Berlin website with links. [Online] Available http://www.berlin.de/ (accessed November 30, 1999). Senate Department of Construction, Housing and Transport, Berlin, Germany. [Online] Available http://www.bau.berlin.de/verkehr/ berlinetwork (accessed April 14, 2000). The Week in Germany. [Online] Available http:// www.germany.info.org/ (accessed April 14, 2000).
Government Offices
Karl Wilhelm von Humboldt (1767– 1835), statesman and philologist, founder of the Friedrich Wilhelm (now Humboldt) University of Berlin.
Senatskanzlei Berliner Rathaus 10173 Berlin Tel. (030)90260 Fax (030)90262013
Helen Lange (1848–1930), founder of the German Women’s Teacher’s Association in Berlin in 1889.
Tourist and Convention Bureaus
Marie-Elizabeth Luders (1888–1966), first woman named as honorary president of the Federal Democratic
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German National Tourist Office 122 East 42nd St. Chanin Building, 52nd Floor New York, NY 10168–0072 USA Tel. (212)661–7200 Fax (212)661–7174
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Berlin
The Berlin Wall crossed the city center before it was destroyed in November 1989. (Bernard Boutrit; Woodfin Camp)
Publications Berliner Morgenpost Axel-Springer-Str. 65 D-10888 Berlin Tel. (030) 25910 Fax (030) 2516071 [Online] Available http://www.berlinermorgenpost.de/ (Accessed April 14, 2000).
Books Gumbel, Andrew. Berlin. London: Cadogan Books, 1991. The Heads of Government of the 16 Constituent
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States in Germany. Bonn, Germany: Inter Nations Press, 1999. Koppler, Dr. Arno and Stefan Reichart, eds. Facts About Germany. Frankfurt am Main: German Societats Verlag, 1996. Larsson, Mans O., ed. Let’s Go Germany. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1999. Merkl, Peter H. The Federal Republic of Germany at Fifty: The End of a Century of Turmoil. New York: NYU Press, 1999. Solsten, Eric, ed. Germany: A Country Study. 3rd ed. Washington, D.C.: Federal Research Division, Library of Congress, 1995.
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Boston Boston, Massachusetts, United States of America, North America Founded: 1630; Incorporated: 1822 Location: Eastern Massachusetts on the Atlantic coast; United States, North America Flag: Adopted in 1917, the flag features the city seal in white with a creamy beige border on a dark blue field. Time Zone: 7 am Eastern Standard Time (EST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: White 63%; Black 26%; Hispanic origin (of any race) 11% (numbering 34,200 in 1990) Elevation: 6.1 m (20 ft) above sea level. Much of Boston’s once-hilly peninsula at the head of Massachusetts Bay was leveled to fill in the tidal flats of the Back Bay. Now the city lies mostly on gently rolling terrain. Latitude and Longitude: 42º35'N, 71º06'W Climate: Generally mild summers and cold, damp winters. The city’s climate is influenced by the Atlantic Ocean, which moderates winter cold, increases fog and humidity, and makes Boston one of the country’s windiest cities. With frequent spring and summer showers and regular snowfall in the winter, Boston is also one of the wettest cities in the country. Annual Mean Temperature: January –1ºC (30ºF); July 23ºC (74ºF). Seasonal Average Snowfall: Over 101.6 cm (40 in) Average Annual Precipitation (total of rainfall and melted snow): 1,120 mm (44 in) Government: Mayor and nine-member city council Weights and Measures: Standard U.S. Monetary Units: Standard U.S. Telephone Area Codes: 617, 781 Postal Codes: 02101–02125; 02127–28; 02133–63; 02199; 02201–22
1
Introduction
The historic city of Boston is located in New England, on the Atlantic coastline of Massachusetts. One of the first European settlements in North America, the city has been called the “Cradle of the American Revolution.” The home of Paul Revere, Boston was also the site of the Boston Tea Party and the Battle of Bunker Hill. In the nineteenth century, it became a major center for the abolitionist movement, as well as the focal point for an unprece-
dented flowering of American culture. For most of its history, Boston has been a major maritime and commercial center. The decades following World War II have seen the growth of the service and financial sectors and the tourist industry. Harvard University and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (M.I.T.) head the long list of colleges and universities that have made Boston “the college capital of the United States.” By drawing an educated work force to the city, these schools helped make the Boston area one of the nation’s leading
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Boston centers for research-based high-technology industries. 2
Boston Population Profile
Getting There
Boston is located on an extension of Massachusetts Bay and runs along the Charles River, which divides it from Cambridge to the north, the location of the area’s two most prestigious institutions of higher learning—Harvard University and M.I.T. Major neighborhoods and other well-known parts of the city include the waterfront, the North End, the West End, Beacon Hill, Charlestown, the financial district, Downtown Crossing, Back Bay, the theater district, Chinatown, South Boston, and the South End. Highways
City Proper Population: 574,283 (1990 Census) Area: 125 sq km (48.4 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 63% white; 26% black
Metropolitan Area Population: 5,690,000 (1990 Census) Description: Five-city New England County Metropolitan Area (Boston-WorcesterLawrence-Lowell-Brockton), including all or part of seven counties in Massachusetts and one in New Hampshire Area: 16,800 sq km (6,450 sq mi) World population rank1: 102 Percentage of total US population2: 1.1% Average yearly growth rate: 0.5% Ethnic composition: 91% 2hite; 6% black; 3% other ——— 1. The Boston metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the total US population living in the Boston metropolitan area.
Three major interstate highways lead to and from Boston: I-95 runs northward along the Atlantic coastline in New Hampshire and Maine, and south to Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York and beyond; the Massachusetts Turnpike (I-90) runs westward from Boston through Massachusetts and connects with the New York State Thruway; and I-93 extends northward (the Northeast Expressway) to Canada and southward (the Southeast Expressway) toward Cape Cod.
Atlantic Avenue. Travel times to Boston via Greyhound are four to five hours from New York; 11 hours from Washington, D.C.; and 24 to 27 hours from Chicago. Amtrak passenger trains arrive and depart from South Station and Back Bay Station. Express trains travel between New York and Boston in four hours.
Bus and Railroad Service
Airports
Buslines serving Boston include Greyhound, Bonanza, American Eagle, Concord Trailways, and Peter Pan. Boston’s main bus station is the South Station Transportation Center at 700
Major domestic airlines running flights to and from Boston’s Logan International Airport include American, Continental, Delta, Northwest, and TWA. Many international airlines also
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Boston
fly directly into Logan, which is five kilometers (three miles) northeast of downtown Boston. Shipping With 40 kilometers (25 miles) of
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docking area, Boston’s outstanding natural harbor is the largest port in New England, handling over 18 million metric tons (20 million tons) of freight annually. Port operations are managed by the Massachusetts Port Authority.
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Boston 3
Getting Around
Many of Boston’s major roads— including Beacon Street, Storrow Memorial Drive, Commonwealth Avenue, Marlborough Street, and Boylston Street—converge at the Boston Common, the famous park near the center of the city. The major arteries of Charles Street and Atlantic Avenue form a semicircle bordering the city’s wharves. Bus and Commuter Rail Service The Massachusetts Bay Transportation Authority (MBTA, known locally as “the T”) operates buses, subway trains, and trolleys throughout Greater Boston, as well as running two ferry systems. Boston’s subway system, the nation’s oldest, was completed in 1897. The subway lines are color-coded Red, Green, Blue, and Orange, and cars run from 5:15 AM until after midnight. A separate Purple Line, providing commuter rail service to the suburbs and beyond, extends as far as Providence, Rhode Island. The 85-cent fare is paid by purchasing a token. Trains are labeled “inbound” or “outbound,” referring to their direction in relation to the Part Street station. Buses operated by the MBTA provide service across the city and to the suburbs; fares are 60 cents. Sightseeing Walking tours to Boston’s compact historic sites are very popular. The bestknown route is the Freedom Trail, which connects 16 historic sites in a space of less than five kilometers (three
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miles). Several companies offer hourand-a-half to two-hour trolley tours. One-hour and hour-and a-half cruises of Boston’s harbor are offered by Boston Harbor Cruises, Massachusetts Bay Lines, and the Charles River Boat Company, and longer cruises in the surrounding waters are also available. 4
People
In 1996 Boston ranked twenty-second in population among cities in the United States, with a population of 558,394, down 2.8 percent since the 1990 census when its residents numbered 574,283 (48 percent male, 52 percent female). The 1997 population for Boston’s five-city New England County Metropolitan Area (NECMA), spanning both Massachusetts and New Hampshire, was 5.83 million, up from 5.69 million as of the 1990 census. Boston’s population is projected to pass 600,000 by 2010 when a population of 6.5 million is projected for the NECMA. Boston’s original settlers were mostly of English origin and formed the basis of the city’s old aristocracy, known as the “Boston Brahmins.” By the middle of the nineteenth century, the first waves of Irish immigration began, made up largely of peasants fleeing the potato famine in that country. The Irish eventually became one of the city’s major ethnic groups and gained a dominant position in its political life. The first Irish mayor of Boston was elected in 1885. In 1960 the scion of two prominent Boston Irish political families—John Fitzgerald Kennedy
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Boston
City Fact Comparison Boston (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
2,915,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1630
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$192
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$44
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$26
$14
$15
$16
$238
$173
$246
$207
Total daily costs (hotel, meals, incidentals) Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
3
13
20
11
The Boston Globe
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
470,825
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1872
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
(1917–1963)—was elected president of the United States. In spite of the city’s original Puritan roots, nineteenth-century waves of Irish, Italian, and FrenchCanadian immigration made Boston a strongly Catholic city. Today more than half the city’s population is Catholic— the third-largest percentage of any city in the United States. Escaped slaves arrived in Boston during the Civil War era via the Underground Railroad. In the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s, Boston’s Hispanic and Asian American populations grew. Many immigrants are drawn to the region by
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its educational institutions and hightechnology jobs. Boston is also home to a sizable Jewish community, which accounts for the single largest distinct religious denomination after the Catholics. Two other religions have their headquarters in Boston: the Unitarian-Universalist Association and the First Church of Christ, Scientist, founded in the city in 1894 by Mary Baker Eddy (1821–1910). An imposing modern Christian Science complex, including a school, library, and worship facilities, was completed in the early 1970s.
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Boston
Boston skyline along the Charles River. (Nubar Alexanian; Woodfin Camp)
5
Neighborhoods
Housing in Boston is notoriously expensive, particularly in the wake of a real estate boom that began in the 1980s, the effects of which have been felt as far away as Providence, Rhode Island. More than 60 percent of the city’s residents live in apartments. As of the 1990 census, Boston had 250,000 housing units, with the lowest vacancy rate in the country (four-and-a-half percent). The median value of an owneroccupied home in 1990 was $161,400 (compared with the national average of roughly $100,000); median monthly rent was $546. Boston’s rich ethnic mix is reflected in the composition of several of its bestknown neighborhoods. Beacon Hill has traditionally been known as the home of the Boston Brahmin elite. The major
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Irish population centers are Charlestown and South Boston (“Southie”). The North End is heavily Italian, and primarily black neighborhoods include Roxbury, Mattapan, and Codman Square. In recent years, sizable Hispanic populations have grown up in Jamaica Plain and Dudley. The Boston Redevelopment Authority, established in 1957 by Mayor John B. Hynes, oversaw the development of the $150 million, 13hectare (31-acre) Prudential Plaza, a shopping, residential, and hotel complex crowned by Prudential Tower, the 52-story building that gave the city a new skyline and was its tallest building until the completion of the John Hancock Tower in the 1970s. In the 1960s, the rundown Scollay Square area was razed to make way for Government Center, a complex of federal and state
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Boston office buildings. Development of Boston’s waterfront since the 1970s has seen the conversion of existing buildings into apartments and the erection of new high-rises. 6
History
The city of Boston was founded in 1630 by the Puritans, three years after the landing at Plymouth Rock. It was named for the town in Lincolnshire, England, from which some of the first settlers had come. Within the first decade, it was already flourishing: the nation’s first school (1635) and first post office (1639) were founded, as well as Harvard University (1636), then called Harvard College and established for the training of future ministers. Within ten years, the population reached 16,000. With its excellent natural harbor, Boston became a center for shipping, shipbuilding, and other maritime occupations. In 1684 the British revoked the charter of the Massachusetts Bay Colony (of which Boston was already the capital), and the city came under direct British rule. In the following decades and throughout the eighteenth century tensions between Bostonians and their rulers—like tensions elsewhere in the colonies—grew. Known as the “Birthplace of the American Revolution,” Boston was the site of the Boston Massacre (1770), the Boston Tea Party (1773), and the Battle of Bunker Hill (1775). In the first half of the nineteenth century, shipping declined in impor-
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tance as manufacturing grew. The first railroad connected Boston with inland areas of Massachusetts by the late 1830s. As home to William Lloyd Garrison’s antislavery newspaper, The Liberator, during the same period, Boston became known as a center of the abolitionist movement, as well as the site of a great intellectual flowering that came to include such eminent figures as Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803–1882), Nathaniel Hawthorne (1804–1864), Henry David Thoreau (1817–1862), Louisa May Alcott (1832–1888), and Oliver Wendell Holmes (1809–1894). The city’s new industrial base was assured of a steady supply of labor as new immigrants began arriving from Ireland by mid-century. Nearly 243 hectares (600 acres) were added to Boston with the reclamation of the Back Bay’s lowlands between 1857 and 1894. In addition, Boston annexed the nearby towns of Roxbury, Dorchester, Charlestown, Brighton, and West Roxbury. Major cultural and scientific institutions founded in the following the Civil War included Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Massachusetts General Hospital, the Boston Museum of Fine Arts, the Boston Symphony Orchestra, and the New England Conservatory of Music. The decline of Boston’s industrial base in the early twentieth century was hastened by the Great Depression of the 1930s, although wartime mobilization the following decade brought with it a temporary reprieve. After World War II (1939–45), however, New England’s traditional manufacturing
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Boston
Surviving the War of 1812, the USS Constitution, also known as “Old Ironsides,” rests in the Boston Harbor. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
industries—textiles, shoes, and glass— once again weakened, as did its shipping industry. However, its colleges and universities brought new life to the city as thousands of students enrolled on the G.I. Bill. (In its original version, signed into law in 1944, the G.I. Bill entitled anyone with 90 days of service in the U.S. military to one year of higher education. Each additional month of active duty earned a month of schooling, up to a maximum of 48 months.) In the post-war decades, Bos-
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ton grew into a major financial and commercial center. A construction boom beginning in the late 1950s changed the city’s skyline with the completion of the Prudential Center in 1959. In 1962 Scollay Square was torn down to make way for the new Government Center complex, and the restored Faneuil Hall Marketplace opened in 1976. Racial tensions erupted into violence in the mid-seventies with the advent of court-ordered busing to
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Boston desegregate the public schools, and whites organized a boycott of the schools. By the 1990s, “white flight” had given Boston a disproportionately large black population (25 percent) while many whites had moved to suburbs surrounding the city. In the 1980s and 1990s Boston became one of the country’s foremost centers for high technology, with research-based firms clustered in a band along Route 128, which encircles the city. In the late 1980s and early 1990s, a number of businesses left Boston and relocated to surrounding areas of Massachusetts and other states, driven out by high taxes and lease rates and a general downturn in the region’s economy as the country slipped into recession and unemployment rose. However, the city effectively confronted its fiscal problems, and by 1993 a recovery was under way. In the same year, Thomas Menino became Boston’s first ItalianAmerican mayor. In 1988 a massive highway construction project was approved to relocate the city’s Central Artery (I-93) underground, reclaim the land above it, and link the Massachusetts Turnpike to Logan International Airport. The expected completion date was 2004. 7
Government
Boston has a mayor-council form of government, with a nine-member council elected at large and a strong executive branch. The mayor is elected to a four-year term; council and school committee members are elected for two
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years. Municipal elections, held in November of odd-numbered years, are nonpartisan. Boston has traditionally been a strongly Democratic city. 8
Public Safety
Established in 1838, Boston has the oldest police department in the United States. The city comprises 11 police districts. Boston has a relatively high crime rate. In 1995, the FBI crime index figure for Boston was 9,492, with the following breakdown into specific categories (all figures are per 100,000 population): all violent crimes, 1,737; murder, 17.4; rape, 68.8; robbery, 182.3; aggravated assault, 998.2; all property crimes, 7,755; burglary, 1,211; larceny, 4,721; and motor vehicle theft, 1,822. In 1997 the police department moved into a new state-of-the-art headquarters at One Schroeder Plaza. 9
Economy
After its founding in 1630, Boston’s economy was initially based on shipping and shipbuilding, which retained their central position until the nineteenth century when they were eclipsed by manufacturing, which was fueled by technological advances, the development of railroads, and a steady supply of immigrant labor. Boston’s traditional industries started to decline in the twentieth century, especially during the Great Depression of the 1930s. However, there was an upsurge in industrial demand during World War II.
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Boston Since then new industries have helped keep Boston’s economy strong, as well as spur growth in the service sector. The area circling the city along Route 128 has seen a proliferation of new research-based firms, becoming one of the nation’s leading high-technology centers, with the nation’s second-highest number of biotechnology firms. Boston has also grown into one of the country’s leading banking, insurance, and investment centers. The largest employment sectors are service industries (especially health care), government (Boston’s local government had a work force of 22,000 in 1995), and the financial sector. In 1996 Boston’s labor force numbered 288,267, and unemployment stood at four-anda-half percent. The Boston area is considered a leading manufacturing center, especially in electronics and computers. Other manufacturing industries in the region include machinery, motor vehicles and other transport equipment, ships, apparel, cameras, printing and publishing, chemicals, shoes, books, and textiles. Since the 1980s Boston has become known for its research-based high-tech industries, although these are largely located outside city limits along Route 128, which circles the city. Major companies headquartered in the Boston area include Raytheon, Gillette, Fidelity Investments, and Digital Equipment Corporation.
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10
Environment
Located on the Shawmut Peninsula, at the mouths of the Charles and Mystic Rivers, Boston has an excellent natural harbor that has played a decisive role in its history as a shipping and shipbuilding center, and its access to the Atlantic Coast has contributed to the cosmopolitan character of the city. Once the maritime capital of the nation, Boston today remains its leading fishing port, with more than 907,200 kilograms (two million pounds) of fish caught in the surrounding waters annually. At the time the city was founded, Boston’s hilly peninsula was almost entirely surrounded by water and connected to the mainland by only a narrow strip of land. The area today known as Back Bay was composed of marshes and mud flats that were covered by water during high tide. In the early nineteenth century a dam was constructed there to generate power for the new mills that were being built. By the 1830s, the portion of the Back Bay just west of the Boston Common was filled in to create the land for the 10-hectare (24-acre) Public Garden. In the latter part of the century, additional land from the peninsula was leveled to fill in and reclaim more of the marshlands, adding significantly to the original area of the city. In the 1880s a master plan for a network of city parks was laid out by esteemed landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted (1822–1903). A large open park called the Fenway was created,
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Boston linking the Boston Common and Public Garden with Franklin Park. The Arnold Arboretum in Jamaica Plain, affiliated with Harvard University, was part of the network as well. 11
Shopping
Boston’s traditional retail district is located in Downtown Crossing, in the heart of the city on the narrow thoroughfares of Washington, Summer, and Winter streets, which have been turned into a pedestrian mall. The most famous landmark here is the teeming and chaotic Filene’s Basement—literally the lower level(s) of Filene’s department store, where a wide variety of merchandise undergoes a series of markdowns the longer it remains on the shelves. Today the most popular shopping district is Back Bay, which combines high-quality national retail establishments like Neiman Marcus, Lord & Taylor, and Saks Fifth Avenue with the trendy, upscale boutiques for which Newbury Street, in particular, is famous. Also found in this neighborhood are bookstores, coffee shops, galleries, and a variety of specialty stores, as well as numerous restaurants. Other distinctive shopping destinations are the restored Faneuil Hall marketplace and Harvard Square in Cambridge. 12
Education
Home of the nation’s first school and first university (both established in the 1630s), Boston is renowned as an educational mecca. There are more than a dozen four-year institutions of
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higher learning within the city proper and many more in the surrounding area. Colleges and universities within Boston itself include Boston University, Northeastern University, the New England Conservatory of Music, Simmons College, and a branch of the University of Massachusetts, and Harvard’s medical school. Across the Charles River in Cambridge are the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (M.I.T.) and Harvard University. Other wellknown institutions of higher education in the region include Tufts University, Boston College, Brandeis University, and Wellesley College. Boston Latin School, opened in 1635, is the oldest public school in the United States. In 1998, the Boston School District was comprised of 129 elementary, middle, and high schools (72 elementary schools, 20 middle schools, seven K–8 schools, and 18 high schools), with a pupil/staff ratio of approximately 13 to 1. As of fiscal year 1999, public school enrollment was 63,000; the racial and ethnic breakdown was 49 percent black, 26 percent Hispanic, 15 percent white, and 9 percent Asian. Private and parochial schools enrolled 15,400 students. Boston was the first major city to provide Internet access to all public school students. The public school system employed 4,534 teachers, 536 administrators, and 450 support personnel. The Boston school system’s NetYear project was launched in 1996, with the goal of providing one computer for every four students by 2001.
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Boston patient-care physicians in 1995 was 18,449. Well-known medical facilities include Massachusetts General Hospital, New England Medical Center, the Dana Farber Cancer Institute, and New England Deaconess Hospital. In 1997 Massachusetts General Hospital had 819 beds. It recorded 34,908 admissions and 657,777 outpatient visits, and employed a work force of 10,902. Hospital expenditures for the year totaled $705 million. The health-care industry is one of the city’s top employers. 14
Harvard University is one of the many colleges that make Boston the “College Capital of the World.” (Susan Lapides; Woodfin Camp)
Boston has two major daily newspapers: the Boston Globe and the Boston Herald. The Christian Science Monitor, a national newspaper that appears daily on weekdays, is also published in Boston. Well-known magazines published in Boston include Boston Magazine and The Atlantic. The city has nine television stations, including affiliates of the four major commercial networks and the Public Broadcasting System (PBS). PBS station WGBH is recognized nationally as a leading outlet for educational and cultural programming. 15
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Health Care
With world-class research institutions and more than a dozen teaching hospitals in the region, Boston is known for pioneering medical advances and quality health care. The number of
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Media
Sports
Boston has professional major league baseball (the Red Sox, American League), football (the New England Patriots), basketball (the Celtics), and hockey (the Bruins). The Red Sox won their only World Series in 1918. Between 1918 and 1986, they played in four more World Series contests, losing all of them in the seventh game.
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Boston
Opening day at Fenway Park, home of the Boston Red Sox. (Paula Lerner; Woodfin Camp)
Boston’s major sports venues are Fenway Park, home of the Red Sox, and Fleet Center, site of the Celtics’ and the Bruins’ games. The Patriots play at Foxboro Stadium. Horse racing takes place at Suffolk Downs. Greyhound racing at Wonderland Park is also a popular sport. Boston is also famous as the site of the Boston Marathon, held annually on the third Monday in April. 16
Parks and Recreation
Boston’s best-known park is the 19hectare (48-acre) Boston Common, located in the heart of the city, along
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with the 10-hectare (24-acre) Public Garden. The land for the Common was purchased by the city in 1634 from a property owner for $150. Today’s visitors to the Common jog, skate, or play frisbee on a historic site that has, in its time, served as a pasture, execution and drill ground, and football field. Also within the city limits, located in the Back Bay, are the Back Bay Fens, which extend from Beacon Street to Brookline Avenue, and the Esplanade along the Charles River, site of the summer Boston Pops concerts, which take place in the Hatch Shell. Other notable parks in the Boston area include Harvard’s 90hectare (223-acre) Arnold Arboretum
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Boston and Franklin Park and Zoological Garden, covering 213 hectares (527 acres). 17
Performing Arts
In addition to its historic attractions, Boston boasts numerous cultural attractions. The Boston Symphony Orchestra (BSO), founded in 1881, is considered one of the country’s top orchestras. During the regular season, it performs in Symphony Hall. In the summer the BSO is in residence at the Tanglewood Festival in the Berkshires, a popular destination for Bostonians, who can also hear concerts by the Boston Pops at the Hatch Shell on the banks of the Charles River in Back Bay. Boston is also a thriving concert venue for recitals and chamber music concerts by top-notch local performers and major touring artists, and is noted for its active early-music scene. The New England Conservatory’s Jordan Hall, noted for its exceptional acoustics—and completely renovated in the early 1990s—is the scene of numerous student and faculty concerts and recitals, as well as performances by other artists. Boston is also home to three opera companies and the Boston Ballet, the fourth-largest ballet company in the nation. In addition, the city has several professional theater troupes, including the American Repertory Theater, the Huntington Theater Company, and the Boston Shakespeare Company.
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18
Libraries and Museums
The reference and research collections at the Boston Public Library are ranked third in the country, following only those of the New York and Los Angeles public libraries. The library, founded in 1852, employs a staff of 489 and circulates some 2.4 million items annually. Its book collection includes 6.7 million volumes. The library’s main building in Copley Square is an architectural landmark. Built in Italian Renaissance style in 1895, it boasts murals by John Singer Sargent (1856– 1925) and other beautiful works of art, as well as a picturesque courtyard. A modern atrium-centered addition, the McKim building, was completed in 1972 and provides a dramatic contrast to the original building. The John F. Kennedy Library holds the presidential papers of the late president. The Museum of Fine Arts is one of the finest in the country; many rank it second only to New York’s Metropolitan Museum. Built in 1909, it added the new West Wing, designed by renowned architect I. M. Pei (b. 1917), in 1981. The museum is especially noted for its Asian and Old Kingdom Egyptian collections, but there are many masterpieces by European and American painters as well, including a 1796 portrait of George Washington by Gilbert Stuart (1755–1828). Boston’s other museums include the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, the Museum of Contemporary Art, Harvard’s Fogg Art Museum, and the Science Museum.
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Boston 19
To u r i s m
Boston has a combination of attractions that make it one of the nation’s most popular tourist destinations. More than ten million people visit the city annually. In 1995 Boston attracted 970,000 foreign visitors, ranking tenth among the nation’s cities in this category. Boston’s most famous tourist attractions are its historic sites, many of which can be found on the Freedom Trail, covering some four kilometers (two-and-a-half miles) of downtown Boston. It begins at the Boston Common, a large park in the heart of the city, which also offers the legendary Swan Boat rides on an artificial pond. Among the historic sites included on the trail are the State House, the Park Street Church, the Old South Meeting House, the Old State House, Paul Revere’s house, the Old North Church, and the Bunker Hill Monument. The Black Heritage Trail, another popular walking tour, celebrates Boston’s history as a center of the abolitionist movement and includes stops on the Underground Railroad and abolitionist meeting places. Other popular Boston tourist sites include the restored Faneuil Hall marketplace; the redeveloped waterfront; the 226-meter-high (740foot-high) observation deck of the John Hancock Building, Boston’s tallest structure; and Harvard Square in Cambridge. Convention facilities in Boston include the John B. Hynes Veterans Convention Center, the World Trade Center, and the Bayside Exposition Center.
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20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Chinese New Year celebration featuring parade and fireworks (Chinatown) Boston Wine Festival
FEBRUARY Black History Month Beanpot Hockey Tournament
FEBRUARY-MARCH International Cultural Festival
MARCH New England Spring Flower Show St. Patrick’s Day Celebration
APRIL Boston Marathon Red Sox opening day Patriots Day
APRIL-OCTOBER Boston Pops Concerts in the Hatch Shell
MAY Boston Kite Festival Lilac Sunday (Arnold Arboretum) Street Performers Festival (Faneuil Hall Marketplace)
JUNE Art Newbury Street Boston Globe Jazz & Blues Festival
JULY Boston Harborfest Central Square World’s Fair
AUGUST Heritage Days Italian-American Feasts
SEPTEMBER Boston Film Festival Cambridge River Festival
OCTOBER Columbus Day Parade Head of the Charles Regatta Harvard Square Oktoberfest
NOVEMBER Christmas Crafts Show
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Boston DECEMBER Boston Common Tree Lighting Boston Tea Party Reenactment First Night Boston
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Famous Citizens
Samuel Adams (1722–1803), Revolutionary War leader. Larry Bird (b. 1956), star player for the Boston Celtics. Louis D. Brandeis (1856–1942), first Jew appointed to the U.S. Supreme Court. Charles Bulfinch (1763–1844), architect of numerous Boston landmarks. William Ellery Channing (1780–1842), founder of American Unitarian Association. Julia Child (b. 1912), culinary expert and television personality. John Singleton Copley (1738–1815), first great North American portrait painter. Dorothea Dix (1802–1887), tenacious investigative reporter. Mary Baker Eddy (1821–1910), founder of the Christian Science church. Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803–1882), writer, philosopher, and leading Transcendentalist. Arthur Fiedler (1894–1979), Boston Pops conductor and organizer of the Esplanade concerts. William Lloyd Garrison (1805–1879), abolitionist writer and editor.
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Paul Revere, Revolutionary War hero, rode from Boston to Lexington to warn the countryside that the British were on the march. (Susan Lapides, Woodfin Camp)
John Hancock (1737–1793), first signer of the Declaration of Independence. John F. Kennedy (1917–1963), president of the United States (1960–1963). Malcolm X (1925–1965), Black Muslim leader. Cotton Mather (1663–1728), Congregational clergyman known for sermons.
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Boston Frederick Law Olmsted (1822–1903), landscape architect who planned Boston’s park network. Paul Revere (1735–1818), Revolutionary War era patriot. Ted Williams (b. 1918), Red Sox baseball hero. 22
For Further Study
Websites Excite Travel. About Boston. [Online] Available http://www.city.net/countries/ united_states/massachusetts/boston. (accessed October 14, 1999). Greater Boston Convention & Visitors Bureau. Welcome to Boston USA. [Online] Available http://www.bostonusa.com. (accessed October 14, 1999). Massachusetts Office of Travel and Tourism. Massachusetts: Take a Real Vacation. [Online] Available http://www.mass-vacation.com. (accessed October 14, 1999). Massachusetts Port Authority. Mass port. [Online] Available http://www.massport.com. (accessed October 14, 1999
Government Offices Boston Redevelopment Authority Boston City Hall, Ninth Floor Boston, MA 02201 (617) 722-4300 Mayor’s Office City of Boston One City Hall Square Boston, MA 02108 (617) 725-3914
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Greater Boston Convention and Visitors Bureau P.O. Box 990468 Prudential Tower, Suite 400 Boston, MA 02199 (617) 536-4100; (888) SEE-BOSTON Massachusetts Office of Travel and Tourism 100 Cambridge St., 13th Floor Boston, MA 02202
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(800) 227-6277; (617) 727-6525
Other Resources The Bostonian Society 200 Washington St. Old State House Boston, MA 02110 (617) 242-5610 Boston Public Library 666 Boylston St. Boston, MA 02117 (617) 536-5400 Greater Boston Chamber of Commerce 125 High St. Boston, MA 02110 (617) 426-1250
Publications Boston Business Journal 200 High St. Boston, MA 02110 The Boston Globe P.O. Box 2378 Boston, MA 02110 Boston Herald P.O. Box 2096 Boston, MA 02106 Boston Magazine 300 Massachusetts Avenue Horticulture Hall Boston, MA 02115
Books Appleberg, Marilyn J. I Love Boston Guide. Illustrations by Albert Pfeiffer. 3rd ed. New York: Collier Books, 1993. Campbell, Robert. Cityscapes of Boston: An American City Through Time. Boston: Houghton Mifflin Co., 1992. Formisano, Ronald P. Boston Against Busing: Race, Class, and Ethnicity in the 1960s and 1970s. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1991. Frost, Jack. Boston's Freedom Trail: A Souvenir Guide. 2nd ed. Chester, CT: Globe Pequot Press, 1986. Harris, Patricia, and David Lyon. Boston. 2nd ed. Oakland, CA: Compass American Guides, 1999. Hitzemann, Marietta, and Ed Golden. New-
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Boston comer's Handbook for Boston. 2nd ed. Chicago: First Books, 1998. Kennedy, Lawrence W. Planning the City Upon a Hill: Boston Since 1630. Amherst: University of Massachusetts Press, 1992. Lukas, J. Anthony. Common Ground. 1st ed. New York: Knopf, 1985. Meerwood, Anne. Frommer’s Irreverent Guide to Boston. New York: Macmillan, 1999. Moore, Barbara W. and Gail Weesner. Back Bay: A Living Portrait. Boston : Century Hill Press, 1995. Morris, Jerry. The Boston Globe Guide to Boston. 4th ed. Old Saybrook, CT: Globe Pequot Press, 1999. O'Connor, Thomas H. Boston Catholics: A History
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of the Church and its People. Boston: Northeastern University Press, 1998. O'Connor, Thomas H. South Boston, My Home Town: The History of an Ethnic Neighborhood. Boston: Quinlan Press, c. 1988. Waldstein, Mark. Mr. Cheap's Boston. Holbrook: Adams Pub., 1995. Wilson, Susan. Boston Sites and Insights. Boston: Beacon Press, 1994.
Videorecordings Boston: The Way It Was. Produced and written by Lorie Conway. Boston: WGBH Educational Foundation, 1995.
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Brussels Brussels, Belgium, Europe Founded: 979 Location: Europe, central Belgium, around the river Senne Motto: “L’Union fait la force–Eendracht maakt macht.” (Unity is powerful.) Flag: Yellow marsh iris on a field of blue. Flower: Yellow (or golden) marsh iris (Iris pseudocorus) Time Zone: 1 PM = noon GMT Ethnic Composition: 55% Flemish (Dutch), 33% French (Walloons), 12% Germans and others Elevation: Sea level Latitude and Longitude: 50° 50’ N, 4° 00’ E Coastline: None Climate: Moderate temperatures year-round with little snow in the winters, predictable rainfall and mild summers Annual Mean Temperature: 10° C (50° F), ranging from 3° C (37° F) in January to 18° C (64° F) in July. Average Annual Precipitation: 70 cm (28 in) Government: Mayor, congress, and district representatives under a constitutional monarchy Weights and Measures: Metric Monetary Units: Belgian franc (BFr) Telephone Area Codes: 02 Postal Codes: B-1000, B-1020
1
Introduction
Brussels lies in the center of Belgium, with the Senne, a small stream splitting neatly in two around the city center. A popular convention and tourist center, the city is world-renowned for its fine beer, divine chocolate, and Belgian lace. Known as the “Capital of Europe,” Brussels hosts the European Union Commission, as well as NATO headquarters, and is regarded as the international meeting hub of the twenty-first century.
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Getting There
Getting to Brussels is fairly easy due to the advanced state of the city’s transportation systems and city planning. Access to the Brussels Capital Region, the Grand Place center of town, and the many museums and shops in the Sablon district is provided by numerous routes that are vital to commerce and tourism. Highways The total area of Brussels highway system covers 430 kilometers (267
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Brussels
Brussels Population Profile City Proper Population: 951,580 Ethnic composition: 55% Flemish (Dutch); 33% French (Walloons); 12% German and other Nicknames: City of Beer, Capital of Europe, Company Town (for the European government)
Metropolitan Area Population: 1,122,000 World population rank1: 330 Percentage of national population2: 11.0% Average yearly growth rate: less than 0.1% ——— 1. The Brussels metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of Belgium’s total population living in the Brussels metropolitan area.
miles) of paved roads. Brussels Ring Road leads to Brussels International Airport, surrounding the Inner Brussels Ring Road which links to the three major train stations. From Brussels, the E40 leads east to Liège and Köln, and west to London. The E19 takes vehicles north to Antwerp and Amsterdam, south to Mons and Paris, while the E411 goes south to Namur and Luxembourg. Brussels roads are known for their foggy conditions, resulting from their proximity to the English Channel and North Sea. Bus and Railroad Service There are three main train stations that carry passengers into the city, the North, Central, and Midi (South) sta-
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tions. The southern station receives the Thalys train from Paris and the Eurostar from London. Belgian Railways (SNCB/ NMBS) services trains to and from Brugge, Ghent, Antwerp, Liège, Amsterdam, and Cologne, among other cities. Charter buses and coaches from tour operators also carry passengers into Brussels, such as “De Lijn” buses and “TEC.” An airport express runs to and from Antwerp every hour. Airports Brussels National Airport is actually located in Zaventem, a close suburb of Brussels. Belgavia and Sabena are the main flight operators, but Air Canada, British Airways, Delta, KLM, Virgin Atlantic, Finnair, Quantas, Singapore Airlines, United Airlines, and Varig also fly into Brussels. 3
Getting Around
The streets of Brussels have grown out of the haphazard planning of the middle ages, making navigation in the city somewhat like traveling a maze. Tourists will need to find a street map in order to successfully get around in Brussels on their own, or find a reliable tour guide. Bus and Commuter Rail Service Trains, buses, and the Metro can all be accessed with one ticket at 55 BFr for one hour. The city also provides day cards, ten-drive or five-drive tickets at a reasonable price. The metro is considered very safe and efficient with 58 stations. Five-hundred buses traverse the city, as do 15 tramlines.
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Brussels
Taxis In order to get a taxi, tourists must go to a taxi stand instead of attempting
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to flag one down. Taxis come in all different colors and brands, but a lighted sign on top says “Brussels Gewest-TaxiRégion de Bruxelles,” and there should
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Brussels be a yellow and blue license emblem. A taxi from the airport to the city center is 1,000 BFr (about $30).
lecht, St.-Gilles, Ixelles, Etterbeek, Woluwe-St.-Lambert, Woluwe-St.-Pierre, Andeghem, Watermael-Boitsfort, Veele, and Forest.
Sightseeing The Tourist Information Office is located in the right wing of Town Hall, a fifteenth-century structure which towers over the Grand Place town square. Many tours and excursions depart nearby, including De Boeck tours, which have a combined walking/ luxury coach tour of the capital. 4
People
The population of Brussels numbers 951,580, most of whom speak French. While the southern Walloons are French speakers, the northern Flemish peoples speak Dutch. A small German enclave also exists in Liège. About one-third of the Brussels populace is made up of foreigners, many of whom work at the European Union and North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO) headquarters. The majority of Brussels inhabitants are Roman Catholic; however, there is also an active Jewish community, and Turkish migratory workers, who are Muslim, have a sizable community as well. Tensions between the more affluent Flemish and the poorer Walloons have existed for centuries. 5
Neighborhoods
The Brussels Capital Region is made up of 19 communes: Bruxelles, Jette, Ganshoren, Berchem-St.-Agathe, Koekelberg, Schaerbeek, Evere, St.-JosseTen-Noode, Molenbeek-St. Jean, Ander-
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The “petit ring” of the city is divided between the Upper and Lower sections, the more expensive areas being higher up, except for the Grand Place, which lies for the most part in the Lower town. The Gare du Midi area houses mostly immigrants and is more economically depressed than the Gare du Nord area that is still somewhat troubled. Once in the heart of the city, the scenery completely changes, with most of the government buildings and nice shops. The main town square in the historical city center is called Grand Place, featuring city hall, Hotel de Ville, most administrative offices, and some shops. The Cinquantenaire district, on the edge of the city center, showcases the Triumphal Arch, museums and art nouveau houses, and the European Union Commission, Parliament, and Council of Ministers. To the east of city center, Royal Square houses the royal residency and Parliament, with a number of gardens and pleasant vistas. The Anderlecht area, west of the center, is well known for its soccer team but is otherwise seen as an industrial, drab neighborhood. The Heysel district and Sablon district to the south contain antique dealers and markets, and the fashionable neighborhood of Grand Sablon Square lies in the heart of the Sablon district.
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Brussels
City Fact Comparison Indicator
Brussels (Belgium)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
1,122,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
979
753 BC
723 BC
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$123
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$59
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$15
$14
$15
$16
$197
$173
$246
$207
Total daily costs (hotel, meals, incidentals) Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
8
13
20
11
De Nieuwe Gazet
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
307,512
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1897
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
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History
At the end of the sixth century, the Preacher Saint Gorik built a chapel on a small island formed by the two arms of the river Senne, creating the first building known to have been built in Brussels. Later, in A.D. 977, the first written record of Brussels declared Charles of France to be the legal owner of LowLorraine, including the island of SaintGorik, on which he built a fortress. But Brussels was not officially founded until 979, after Lambert of Leuven inherited the land from Charles. During the next three centuries, the city grew as a trading post and popular resting spot on
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the way to the channel ports, and the marshland surrounding the city slowly dried, opening up more land for habitation. The increased population put stress on the social system of guilds and noblemen, resulting in peasant uprisings that were quickly stifled during the thirteenth century. In 1402, construction on Grand Place began after 50 years of recession, and in 1430 Philip the Bold, Duke of Burgundy became the Duke of Brabant through marriage to Margaret, an heiress of the former ruler of Brussels, Duchess Joan. This period of relative calm was marked by a flowering of the arts and commerce in Brussels. The period of calm was shattered,
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Brussels city. Alva triumphed, only to be replaced by Isabella and Archduke Albert of Austria. Another plague outbreak, with losses comparable to the first, occurred in 1578, before Albert came into power in 1596. In 1695, Brussels was attacked by French King Louis XIV and his army, led by field marshal Villeroi, which destroyed more than 4,000 houses and Grand Place through fire and looting. The Royal Palace was burned down in 1731, and the French captured Brussels in 1746. This occupation lasted for about a century, until the Belgian revolution freed 138,000 Brussels citizens in 1830. On July 21, 1831, Leopold I became Belgium’s first King, and the country rebuilt.
The Grand Place with the Hotel de Ville (City Hall) expresses traditional Flemish architectural design in the heart of Brussels. (Christophe Gruner; Woodfin Camp)
however, when a plague killed about half of the city’s 60,000 inhabitants in 1489. In 1507, Margaret of Austria was appointed General Governor of the Netherlands, and growth resumed in Brussels for a good 50 years. The intrigues of Emporer Charles V and his successor Philip II brought revolution back to Brussels, as those sympathetic to William of Orange, supervisor of Holland (and champion of Charles V), fought against those who followed the Duke of Alva (favorite of William of Orange) in a battle for power over the
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During World War I (1914–18), Brussels was an occupied city, but German troops did not incur much damage. The Germans returned during World War II (1939–45), resulting in Belgium’s split into two semi-independent regions, the Flanders and Walloon Provinces, while the Brussels district had its own government. The Universal Exhibition took place in Brussels in 1958, and in 1970 construction of the Berlaymont building, house of the European government, began. The European Union and NATO moved their headquarters to Brussels, turning the city into quite an international meeting place for the twenty-first century. 7
Government
Brussels, the capital of Belgium, has an independent congress, mayor, and
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Brussels administration, all of which are elected by the people. On June 18, 1989, the citizens of Brussels elected their regional representatives directly for the first time because the Region of Brussels Capital is considered an autonomous region from the rest of the country of Belgium, which is a constitutional monarchy. On July 14, 1993, the Belgian parliament approved the creation of a federal state of Belgium, which amended the Constitution and Devolution Acts to give the regions (including Brussels) more political power. 8
Public Safety
The Brussels Fire Brigade employs 925 professional firemen, serving in more than nine fire stations. A fleet of 150 units is available to help with road accidents, and there are at least 40 ambulances, five with intensive care surgeons. The emergency number is 100; the police can be reached at 101. Each year the city responds to more than 30,000 calls. 9
Economy
Brussels has a well-developed infrastructure that is supported by about 2,000 foreign companies, including 1,400 U.S. companies and more than 1,000 international associations. The Belgian capital sports the world’s second-largest congressional center, where numerous conferences for business are held each year. About 60 foreign banks operate in Brussels, making the city the seventh-largest financial market in the world. Despite the international links,
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the Brussels economy is actually based on small, private enterprises that service the European Community. About three-quarters of trade occurs with other European Union countries, and there is a large public debt due to social welfare programs. Gross domestic product (GDP) per capita stands at $23,400 annually for Brussels citizens, which is mostly service-based, but about onequarter of wages are for industrial labor. Unemployment has held steady at around 14 percent, along with most of the rest of Europe, but the administration has launched extensive workincentive programs. As the capital of Europe, Brussels also experiences special treatment at the hands of European bureaucrats in the allocation of funding, since most fonctionnaires (officials) live in and around the city. In January 1999, the Euro came into common usage in non-cash transactions, and in 2002 the coins and bills will start circulating, replacing the Belgian franc and furthering the transition to a truly European economy. 10
Environment
The Meuse River provides drinking water to Brussels, as does the Scheldt River, but these two principal rivers have been polluted by steel production wastes that need to be filtered before consumption. Other rivers and tributaries are polluted by animal wastes and fertilizers from agricultural activity. Industry in the Brussels environs has caused acid rain to fall throughout the city and to drift over Europe, killing trees and plants and damaging monu-
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Brussels
Although the king reigns but does not govern, Brussels, the capital of Europe, is comparable to Washington D.C. in that it is the center of political decisions and global weight. (Homer Sykes; Woodfin Camp)
ments and other buildings. Flooding is a threat to reclaimed forestland, but a series of dikes that hold back the ocean protect the land from the majority of flood damage. As one of the Low Countries, much of the land is at or below sea level, causing the need for reclamation projects. Natural resources include coal and natural gas, which are the source of much of the country’s pollution problems. Alternative sources of energy are being tested, including solar power and nuclear energy. The Center for Economic and Social Studies on the Environment, located in Brussels, was
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created in 1972 by the United Nations to conduct research on sustainable development and to compile an environmental metadatabase to take a holistic approach to environmental troubleshooting. While the research that the center does has global ramifications, local applications of new environmental policies are common. The Exporec 2000, European Recycling Exhibition, was held in Brussels, April 21–28, 2000, and showcased the many ways that products from industrial production and general use may be reused
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Brussels instead of merely thrown away to damage the environment. 11
Shopping
There are three main shopping districts: Blvd. Adolf Max & Rue Nuve; Place Stephanie & Ave. Louise; and around Grand Sablon. Some of the popular souvenirs to bring home from Brussels are the famous fruit beers that often come with a matching glass, Sablon lace, Godiva chocolate, and comic strips like Tintin. Most supermarkets are on the outskirts of the city and in the suburbs, but there are two supermarkets near the Stock Exchange Building. Sunday is traditionally market day when Grand Place holds a bird market, and Sablon Square holds an antiques market (Saturday 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM, Sunday 9:00 AM to 3:00 PM). Every day of the week there is a flea market at the “Place du Jeu de balles” near the Palace of Justice. Near Place Bara and Slaughterhouse in the suburb of Anderlecht there are food markets. Chocolates can be found in shops by the name of Godiva, Wittamer, Neuhaus and Corne. The Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert was Europe’s first shopping mall, built in 1847, located on the Rue d’Arenberg. The famous Sablon lace comes from the Maison Antoine Old Brussels Lace Shop in Grand Place. 12
Education
The Brussels school system teaches approximately 35,000 students who live in the Brussels Capital Region. Schooling is compulsory from six to 15
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years of age, while nearly all children start with nursery and kindergarten. This system is fairly successful, considering the virtually nonexistent illiteracy rate among Brussels adults, which is practically unheard of, even in other advanced societies. Classes are taught in French, Dutch, and German, and some schools teach a combination of these languages in order to prepare students for the international European business scene. Both public “official” schools and private “free” schools (Catholic) are financed by the Brussels government, which has come under scrutiny from those who advocate the separation of church and state, religious and secular lives. The government has recently started an Internet system called BRUNETTE (Brussels Network for Telematics in Education), connecting all schools to the Internet with advanced technology. Brussels has been a major center of learning since the Middle Ages and hosts eight major universities and numerous technical and vocational colleges. The Free University of Brussels was originally created to alleviate the Catholic rule over education in the country. It is separated into two almost completely different institutions, one French-speaking and the other Dutchspeaking. The constitution guarantees the freedom of choice of education, which draws foreign students seeking refuge from educational, political, and religious persecution in their own homelands.
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Brussels 13
Health Care
The IRIS network of Brussels (Interhospitalière Régionale des Infrastructures de Soins) offers nine public hospitals, basic medical care, and specialists who are available to all citizens. University hospitals also provide a number of services while teaching new doctors and nurses the trade. Modern medical, psychological, and geriatric care is available from state-run hospitals, clinics, and private doctors. About 95 percent of the Brussels population are covered by the state health plan. The twentieth International Symposium on Intensive Care and Emergency Medicine was held in Brussels March 21–24, 2000, helping to update the techniques used by Brussels practitioners in emergency situations. 14
Media
The Brussels media is composed of three major French newspapers: Le Soir, La Libre Belgique, and La Derniere Heure; three major Dutch newspapers: De Standaard, De Morgen, and Het Laatste Nieuws; and one English weekly: The Bulletin. Most Brussels citizens get cable, which provides 40 channels: six of which are French (France), five Belgian Flemish, five Belgian French, three Dutch (Holland), two local Brussels (Dutch/French), two German, BBCI and BBC2, CNN, NBC Superchannel, Euronews, and a channel each from Italy, Portugal, Spain, Greece, Morocco, and Turkey, among others.
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The Palais des Boux-Arts hosts many dance and musical concerts and recitals by world-renowned performers and conductors throughout the year. (Christophe Gruner; Woodfin Camp)
15
Sports
Brussels holds an annual 20-kilometer (12-mile) half-marathon every year on the streets of the city. The most popular sports are bicycling and soccer (also called football, but very different from American football). The Red Devils are Belgium’s national soccer team, run by the Royal Belgium Football Association.
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Brussels 16
Parks and Recreation
Along the Bois de la Cambre, a visitor can stroll along the banks of the river, row on the river, bicycle, go horseback riding, roller-skating, or play miniature golf. The Park of Brussels also is a pleasant place to visit. On the Arcades of Cinquantenaire, Jabel Park was built to commemorate the fiftieth anniversary of the Belgium Kingdom. La MiniEurope lies in the Laeken district, complete with a miniature Eiffel Tower, leaning Tower of Pisa, and other well-known monuments, in a theme park perfect for family vacations. In the same district is the Atomium, a large structure simulating the make-up of an atom, built for the 1958 World’s Fair held in Brussels. In Tervuren, there are acres of green land in the Forêt de Soignes and the Parc de Tervuren, making this the most popular destination for outdoors recreation. About 15 percent of Brussels is given over to parks and wildlife, which is a large amount considering the dense population of the city and suburbs. 17
Performing Arts
The Théatre Royal de la Monnaie, open since 1700 and supported by the Belgian government and Brussels City government, houses the Opera of Brussels and the Royal Ballet Company, putting on numerous shows every year. Other theaters include the Kaaitheater, the Royal Flemish Theater, and the Theater Factory Europe. The Palais des
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Beaux-Arts holds a wide range of dance and musical concerts and recitals by world-renowned performers yearround, and the Brussels Chamber Music Ensemble Oxalays performs classical music. One specialty of Brussels is the Toone Theater, or Theatre Toone VII, which is held in a pub built in 1696 near Grand Place. On the first floor, marionettes perform classical operas and Brussels folk stories in French, Dutch, and English; the second floor houses the actual pub. Every summer, the Festival of Flanders features concerts, theater, and dance performances in Brussels and other Belgian cities. Brussels has also hosted the Queen Elisabeth International Music Competition since 1951, offering support to young pianists, violinists, and composers. 18
Libraries and Museums
Brussels has a wealth of museums that cover topics ranging from antiquities to comic strips. The Cinquantenaire Museum of Classical Art and History, founded in 1835 and moved to Cinquantenaire Park in 1889, contains artwork from all over the world, from prehistoric times to the present. Brussels City Museum, located in the King’s House on the Market Place of Brussels, opened in 1884. It showcases artwork specifically about the city of Brussels, featuring wall tapestries and the 600costume wardrobe of Manneken Pis. The Museum of Modern Art and Natural Sciences Museum also have
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Brussels
The collection of the Museum of Modern Art displays pieces of many Brussels-inspired artists. (Christophe Gruner; Woodfin Camp)
extensive collections. Victor Horta House focuses on one of the founders of the art nouveau style, and the Belgian Comic Strip Centre houses the largest collection of comic strips in the world, including Belgium’s Tintin. The Royal Library, or Bibliotheque Royal Albert I, located near the central train station, provides citizens with reading and reference material. The library holds nearly everything published in Belgium and much of what is printed in Europe. 19
To u r i s m
Whether shopping and sightseeing in Grand Place, Sablon Square, or the Heysel district, tourists get a grand taste of the good life in Brussels. The city’s cuisine is one of the finest in the world, and the numerous chocolate shops
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make divine desserts. Known for its beer, Brussels is also a fine place to socialize in the pubs and take in a marionette play. Tourists from all over Europe come to Brussels because of its international ranking as a convention center and the capital of Europe. The museums and parks are top-notch and deserve as much time as possible from curious tourists. The comic strip museum, beer museum, and city museum offer rare glimpses into the private lives of Belgians and promise to entertain visitors. Although the weather is not always sunny, it is usually mild, allowing for comfortable sightseeing throughout the year. With the welldeveloped transportation, there is no reason that a traveler should pass up the opportunity to visit Brussels. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Brussels Annual International Motor Show
FEBRUARY Brussels Cartoon and Animated Film Festival (from the end of February until the middle of March)
MARCH International Symposium on Intensive Care and Emergency Medicine
APRIL The Music and Light Show at Grand Place (from April through September)
MAY The 20km Annual Marathon Brussels Art Festival
JUNE Ommegang (Thousands parade on the streets in colorful costumes to commemorate the welcome of Charles V to the city.)
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Brussels JULY The Festival of Flanders
AUGUST The Ivo Van Damme Memorial
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Famous Citizens
Albert II (b. 1934), King of Belgium (r. 1993–present), brother of King Baudouin I.
Tel.: (02)504–02–76 Fax: (02)513–07–50 Centre Administratif (CA) 6 Boulevard Anspach 1000 Bruxelles Ville de Bruxelles City Hall (Hôtel de Ville, HV) Grand Place 1000 Bruxelles Tel.: (02)512–75–54
Baudouin I (1930–1993), King of Belgium (r. 1951–1993).
Mayor—Mr. François-Xavier de Donnea Tel.: (02)279–50–10 Fax: (02)279–50–21
Victor Horta (1861–1947), architect.
Tourist and Convention Bureaus
Georges Rémi (1907–1983), creator of Tintin. Antoine Joseph Sax (known as Adolphe Sax, 1814–1894), inventor of the saxophone. Jean-Claude Van Damme (b. 1960), movie star and karate expert, nicknamed “the muscles from Brussels.” 22
For Further Study
Websites Brussels Online. [Online] Available http:// www.brussels-online.be/ (accessed December 20, 1999). City of Brussels. [Online] Available http:// www.brussels.be/ (accessed December 20, 1999). Irisnet. [Online] Available http:// bruxelles.irisnet.be/index.html (accessed December 20, 1999). Timeout.com. [Online] Available http:// www.timeout.com/brussels/ (accessed December 20, 1999).
Atomium Blvd. Du Centenaire B-1020 Bruxelles Tel.: (02)477–09–77 Fax: (02)477–83–98 e-mail:
[email protected] Brussels Exhibition Center Place de Belgique B-1020 Bruxelles Tel.: (02)474–82–77 Fax: (02)474–83–90 e-mail:
[email protected] Tourist Office (Tourist Information Brussels) Hôtel de Ville Grand Place B-1000 Bruxelles Tel.: (02)513–89–40 Fax: (02)514–45–38 e-mail:
[email protected]
Publications Le Soir Rue Royale 120-1000 Bruxelles Belgique Tel.: (32)2–225–54–32 e-mail:
[email protected] La Libre Belgique. [Online] Available http:// www.lalibrebelgique.com (accessed December 20, 1999).
Government Offices Brussels Congress Rue du Marché-aux-Herbes 61 1000 Brussels
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Books Deprez, Kas and Louis Vos, eds. Nationalism in Belgium: Shifting Identities, 1780–1995. New
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Brussels York, NY: St. Martin’s Press, 1998. Ephrem et. al. Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium: A Guide to the Collections of Ancient Art and Modern Art. Brussels: Alice Editions, 1996.
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Roberts-Jones, Philippe, ed. Brussels: Fin de Siècle. Köln: Taschen, 1999. Swimberghe, Piet and Jan Verlinde, eds. Brussels: The Art of Living. New York, NY: Stewart, Tabor and Chang, 1998.
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Buenos Aires Buenos Aires, Argentina, South America Founded: 1536 Location: On the western bank of the Río de la Plata estuary across from Uruguay, 150 miles inland from the Atlantic Ocean, Argentina, South America. Flag: A black eagle with a red beak, wearing a crown and holding a red cross, on a white field. Time Zone: 9 AM = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: 75% Spanish or Italian descent. Latitude and Longitude: 34º36’S, 58º28’W Coastline: 20 kilometers (12 mi)along the Río de La Plata. Climate: Hot, humid summers. The winter months of June to August are mild but humid. Frosts occur from May to September, but snow is extremely rare. Annual Mean Temperature: Overall 60ºF (16ºC); summer (December–February) 83ºF (28ºC); winter (June–Aug) 52ºF (11ºC). Average Annual Precipitation: 43.2 inches (1,096 mm) Government: Elected mayor and legislature, but Federal government makes major decisions affecting the capital city. Weights And Measures: Metric Monetary Units: The peso (on par with the U.S. dollar). U.S. dollar is widely accepted. Telephone Area Codes: Argentina country code: (54); Buenos Aires: (1). Postal Codes: The Correo Argentino, the privatized postal service, created a 4-letter, 4-number code.
1
Introduction
Early in the twentieth century, Buenos Aires, the city of fair winds, became one of the world’s great cities. By the tens of thousands, European immigrants sailed across the Atlantic to the “Paris of Latin America” looking for a better life. Money seemed no object in those days. Fueled by the great agricultural wealth that came from the heartland of the nation, great new buildings and monuments were the order of the day. In 1908, a grand opera house opened its doors to world acclaim and became a symbol of Buenos Aires'
wealth and sophistication. By 1913, the city had Latin America's first underground metro system in operation. The city continued growing through two world wars and a global economic crisis in the 1930s. The city's residents, known as Porteños, or people of the port, were confident and brash. To the people of neighboring countries, the Porteños were arrogant and aloof. The dapper Carlos Gardel epitomized the Porteño during the height of his musical and acting career early in the century. Supremely confident, always well
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Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires Population Profile City Proper Population: 3,040,000 Area: 200 sq km (77 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 75% Spanish or Italian ancestry; 25% other, including Russian Jews, English, French, German, Lebanese, and Syrian Nicknames: Inhabitants are known as Porteños (port dwellers or people of the port)
Metropolitan Area Population: 12,431,000 Description: Greater Buenos Aires Metropolitan area (city and 22 suburbs) Area: 3,680 sq km (1,420 sq mi) World population rank1: 10 Percentage of national population2: 34% Average yearly growth rate: 1.0% ——— 1. The Buenos Aires metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of Argentina’s total population living in the Buenos Aires metropolitan area.
dressed and neatly groomed, Gardel was an ambassador to the Tango, a melancholic music that grew out of the fringes of Buenos Aires. By the end of the twentieth century, Buenos Aires had managed to retain if not its confidence at least its arrogance as it literally fell apart. In the 1990s, the Porteño media were busy reporting stories about decaying buildings that dropped balconies onto the street like rotten apples falling off trees, the heavy pollution that tainted the city's buenos aires, corruption and police brutality, the proliferation of rats and
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feral cats, and countless other problems. Economists and historians are still trying to figure out what went wrong in Argentina. Once the seventh-wealthiest country in the world, it quickly dropped to seventy-seventh by the 1960s. The blame is often placed on the economic policies of former President Juan Domingo Perón, who created the nation's most powerful political movement in the 1950s and attempted to industrialize the nation at the cost of agriculture. Just as devastating to the nation was the brutal military dictatorship of 1976–83, which ruled with an iron fist from the capital city of Buenos Aires. Thousands of Argentineans were killed, and thousands who were arrested were never seen again. In the capital's main Plaza de Mayo, a square in front of the government palace, each Thursday a group of mothers remind the nation of sons and daughters not yet found. Yet, despite all its problems, Buenos Aires retains much of its old charm. Some of its neighborhoods have not changed at all in the past 100 years and remain a living example of the city's golden age. Millions of people visit Buenos Aires each year. They come to experience the tango, eat at renowned and expensive restaurants, shop at sophisticated boutiques, and visit dozens of museums. Slowly, the city is transforming itself, starting with its longneglected waterfront. More people are riding the improved subway, which saw declining numbers for decades. Porteños go on, sipping thick espressos
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Buenos Aires
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Buenos Aires and mate, a national drink made from a herb. During long sobremesas, the customary after-meal conversations, they continue to discuss politics and other issues of importance. 2
Getting There
Buenos Aires is located on the west bank of the Río de la Plata, at the northeastern edge of the Pampa, a flat plain of rich soil that is to Argentina what the Midwest is to the United States. The Río de la Plata is an estuary of the Paraná and Uruguay rivers that come together to form a broad, shallow, and muddy marine inlet between Uruguay and Argentina. Highways The national highway system is centered in the city, radiating from there to all of Argentina and neighboring countries. All distances on the national highway system are measured from a 0-kilometer marker located in a small square across from the National Congress building. From there, national highways 1, 2, and 3 (which runs to Tierra del Fuego) serve the southern part of the country. Highways 5 and 7 serve the western part of the country, and highways 8 and 9 serve the north. Bus, Railroad, and River Service Three major bus terminals offer daily national and international travel, with departures to dozens of Argentinean cities, and the neighboring countries of Chile, Bolivia, Uruguay, Brazil, and Paraguay. Unlike the United
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States, dozens of bus companies compete for business in Argentina. At bus terminals in Buenos Aires, each company has a desk like an airline ticket counter. Buses have replaced inter-city trains and only the Roca line within Buenos Aires province maintains service. Three companies provide boat and ferry service to the Uruguayan cities of Colonia and Montevideo across the Río de la Plata. Aliscafos has fast hydrofoils. Ferrylineas has hydrofoils and ferries. Buquebus offers a ferry-bus combination to Colonia and Montevideo. Airports Ezeiza International Airport, 30 kilometers (19 miles) southwest of downtown Buenos Aires, has national and international service, with direct flights to selected cities in the United States. Aerolineas Argentinas, with 150 international and 350 domestic flights per week, is the largest carrier at Ezeiza. Aeroparque Jorge Newbery, five minutes north of the downtown area, serves as a regional airport, with some international departures. Shipping The Port of Buenos Aires is the largest in South America and the economic engine of the country. It handles 96 percent of the nation's container traffic and 40 percent of all international transactions measured in U.S. dollars. In 1998, it handled nearly eight million metric tons (nine million tons) of cargo. Sixty maritime companies work out of five terminals handling more than 70 vessels per week. The port has a
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Buenos Aires
City Fact Comparison Buenos Aires (Argentina)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
12,431,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1536
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$235
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$72
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$18
$14
$15
$16
$325
$173
$246
$207
28
13
20
11
Clarin
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
700,000
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1945
1944
1976
1948
Total daily costs (hotel, meals, incidentals) Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established 1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
grain terminal that can handle 170,000 metric tons (187,340 tons). A narrow channel that leads from the port to the mouth of the Atlantic is constantly being dredged to keep the heavy traffic flowing. The port is old, and most of its decaying facilities have not been replaced. Thousands of trucks coming in and out of the port each week contribute to Buenos Aires' critical traffic problem. Five railroad lines serve the port. 3
Getting Around
Central Buenos Aires is built on a grid parallel to the Río de la Plata. The Plaza de Mayo is a large open square
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near the waterfront. From here, Buenos Aires grew outward in a semicircle. Rivadavia Avenue, which begins at Plaza de Mayo, continues westward for about 40 kilometers (25 miles). Bus and Commuter Rail Service Private companies operate the bus system. The fleet serves 299 lines covering 24,135 kilometers (15,000 miles) of roads. The private Subterraneos de Buenos Aires, a subway in operation since 1913, has five underground lines and 63 stations, covering 36.5 kilometers (23 miles) of the city. A light rail line travels 7.4 kilometers (five miles) with 13 stops. Six commuter trains covering
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Buenos Aires 965 kilometers (600 miles) serve Buenos Aires and its suburbs. According to 1988 figures, 73.3 percent of passengers rode buses and trolleys, 16.6 percent rode the metropolitan rail, and ten percent rode the subway. At the same time, nearly one million passenger vehicles crowded the streets. Sightseeing Many companies offer sightseeing tours in Buenos Aires and the surrounding areas. A train that caters to tourists departs from the Retiro station in Buenos Aires to the northern suburb of Tigre. There are daily departures to the Uruguayan cities of Colonia and Montevideo. 4
People
According to Argentina's National Institute of Statistics and Census, the population of Buenos Aires stood at 3.04 million people (1.65 million women and 1.38 million men) in 1998. The greater metropolitan area had 13.9 million people, making it one of the largest urban concentrations in the world. The densely populated city has 15,201 inhabitants per square kilometer. Nearly 11 percent of the city's residents are foreigners. In the year 2000, 16.8 percent of residents were over the age of 65, and 17.5 percent were under the age of 14. Most Porteños are the descendants of immigrants from Spain and Italy who came to Argentina in large numbers in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century, long after the con-
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quering Spaniards pushed off the indigenous people from the area. Many other Europeans have settled in Buenos Aires, including Germans, British, and Jews from central and Eastern Europe. More than 400,000 Jews live in the city, one of the largest Jewish communities in the world. In the 1990s, Buenos Aires was the focus of anti-Semitism. An explosion killed 29 people at the Israeli Embassy in 1992, and another bomb destroyed a Jewish cultural center in Buenos Aires, killing 87 people. Non-European immigration historically was not welcomed, but there are many people from the Middle East, including Syria and Lebanon. They are collectively known as turcos (Turks). The term sometimes is used in a derogatory manner. Despite their small numbers, some have risen to national prominence, including President Carlos Menem, who is of Syrian ancestry. In the 1930s, large numbers of poor immigrants from Northern Argentina moved to Buenos Aires looking for work. The newcomers were mostly Mestizo (mixed Indian and European). Today, Mestizos make up about onethird of the population of the city, and many of them remain in poverty. Some live in the villas miserias (villages of misery), shantytowns in the outskirts of the city, and in crowded conditions near the heart of the city. In more recent years, many Bolivians, Peruvians, Paraguayans, and Uruguayans have moved to Buenos Aires. The national language is Spanish, but many other languages are spoken in
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Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires skyline. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
the city, including Italian, German, and English. One of the oldest English-language newspapers in the Americas, The Buenos Aires Herald, has been in circulation since 1876. A colorful slang known as Lunfardo is spoken in the city's slums and waterfront neighborhoods. Argentineans and neighboring Chileans often refer to the Spanish language as Castellano (Castilian). 5
Neighborhoods
The capital city is divided into 48 barrios, or neighborhoods. Most are working-class barrios, while others resemble the rich enclaves of Los Ange-
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les and New York City. Buenos Aires developed outward from the Plaza de Mayo, the historic square that is surrounded by the presidential palace known as the Casa Rosada (pink house), the colonial Town Hall (cabildo), and the Metropolitan Cathedral. As the city grew, it turned its back on its working waterfront, physically and metaphorically. The Casa Rosada looked toward the Pampas, not the Río de la Plata. By the 1990s, city officials shifted gears and developed a plan to revive the waterfront. Millions of dollars were pumped into the new waterfront neighborhood of Puerto Madero.
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Buenos Aires A marina was built, and expensive restaurants and shops opened in the old brick warehouses. The latest census showed a few hundred people lived in the neighborhood. West of Puerto Madero, in an area generally known as the centro (downtown), buildings date to the nineteenth century. To the south, in the barrio San Telmo, visitors can still see many buildings from the colonial era. The barrio was once a fashionable address, where the wealthier Porteños settled in large homes. In the nineteenth century, the elite abandoned San Telmo to escape yellow fever and moved further inland and north of the centro. They settled in barrios known as Palermo, Recoleta, and Retiro, today home to middle and upper-class Porteños. San Telmo declined for many decades, and many homes became conventillos, cramped and unkempt living quarters for poor immigrants. Today, San Telmo is considered an artist's quarter, with low rents, and many antique stores and restaurants. Some areas have been restored and gentrified. South of San Telmo is the famous and colorful barrio of La Boca (mouth), a mostly working class neighborhood that got its start at the mouth of the Riachuelo River. Originally, Italian immigrants settled in La Boca. They worked in the neighborhood's meat salting plants, which brought prosperity to Buenos Aires in the nineteenth century. Tourists flock to Caminito, a pedestrian walkway named after a famous tango, an Argentinean form of
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ballroom dancing that got its start on the fringes of Buenos Aires in the late 1880s. Caminito is flanked by modest homes brightly painted in an array of colors. During the day, artists sell their work, and couples show their tango steps to tourists. North of Plaza de Mayo, the city opens up into large avenues, pedestrian walkways, and large parks. The cultural and business center of the nation is here. Avenida Santa Fe, lined by expensive restaurants and boutiques, is typical of the Barrio Norte, which includes the neighborhoods of Recoleta, Palermo, and Retiro, among others. Recoleta has remained a chic address, even for the dead. Some of the wealthiest and most famous Argentineans, including the cultural icon Eva Perón, are buried at the Cementerio de la Recoleta in the heart of the neighborhood. Detached single-family homes are quite rare in Buenos Aires. Traditionally, families lived in row houses with interior patios or gardens. As the population grew more rapidly, two- and threestory buildings separated by a common wall were built. These buildings were known as petit hotels. In the twentieth century, detached high-rise apartment buildings began to dominate the landscape. In the Barrio Norte, these buildings stretch for many blocks. Some of them take up a whole block. According to government figures, about five percent of the population lives in substandard housing. In metropolitan Buenos Aires, the typical living unit in the villas miserias is a corrugated metal shack.
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Buenos Aires 6
History
In 1536, the Spaniard Pedro de Mendoza—under orders by the Spanish kingdom to establish a settlement—and 1,600 of his men camped on a bluff overlooking the Río de la Plata. To the west, and stretching as far as the eye could see, lay the Pampa, a flat plain of rich soil. Relations with the Querandí (an indigenous people who populated this part of the continent) quickly deteriorated, and the Spaniards were forced to leave five years later. More than four decades would pass before the Spaniards attempted to settle the area again. In 1580, Juan de Garay (c. 1528– 1583) and 300 people settled at the mouth of the Río Riachuelo and reestablished the city of Buenos Aires. They discovered that cattle and horses brought by Mendoza’s men had multiplied and spread across the Pampa, easing their attempts to settle the area. In time, the domestication of wild horses and cattle and life in the vast Pampa would have a profound impact on the culture of Argentina and Buenos Aires' rise to power. For 200 years, Buenos Aires remained a sleepy, isolated town, governed by the Viceroyalty of Peru. (A viceroyalty is a province ruled by a governor in the name of the Spanish King.) Buenos Aires' growth was hampered by Spain's rigid trade regulations, which allowed only certain ports to handle goods destined for Spain. Any goods from Argentina traveled over vast distances by land to the Peruvian port of Callao, where they were shipped to
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Panama and then transferred to ships going to Spain. The great distance between Lima and Buenos Aires helped Porteños establish their own distinct identity. The isolation and vastness of the Pampa gave rise to a unique culture as well. The Pampa became synonymous with the Gaucho, the celebrated Argentinean cowboy whose image was resurrected as a symbol of national identity. By the early eighteenth century, the fertile and well-irrigated land west and north of Buenos Aires was producing thousands of tons of cereal and dried beef and thousands of cattle hides. Financed by British capital, smugglers exported the goods through the Port of Buenos Aires to markets in Brazil and the Caribbean Islands, much to the consternation of Spain, which could not stop the illegal trade. In 1776, the Spanish kingdom named Buenos Aires the capital of the new Viceroyalty of the Río de la Plata. Many factors led to that decision. Chief among them was the growing economic importance of Buenos Aires and the entire region. Spain also sought to deflate British influence and collect more taxes from the growing commerce. The British, of course, would not give up so easily on Buenos Aires. British troops attempted to invade the city in 1806 and 1807 but were soundly defeated by local forces. Already infused with a strong sense of self-identity, the victories over the British boosted Argentine nationalism among Porteños. By 1808, when French commander Napo-
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Buenos Aires leon Bonaparte’s forces invaded Spain, the citizens of Buenos Aires began to question their allegiance to the Spanish kingdom. Two years later, in May of 1810, Buenos Aires severed its ties with Spain. But the surrounding provinces did not follow suit until 1816, when they declared their independence and named Buenos Aires the new capital of the United Provinces of Río de la Plata. By then, Buenos Aires had become a dominant force in the region, and neighboring provinces attempted to curve its power. Following a long period of unrest and a power struggle, Buenos Aires emerged even stronger and was named the federal capital of Argentina in 1880. Heavy British investment had sustained growth in the region during this time, and by the late 1880s, Buenos Aires was becoming one of the wealthiest and most important cities in the world. Porteños began to call their city the Paris of South America and embarked on an ambitious construction program. Beautiful mansions and buildings, wide avenues, expensive hotels, and restaurants became permanent fixtures in the city's landscape. The Teatro Colón, an architectural jewel used for ballet, opera, and classical music, opened in 1908 to world acclaim. With massive immigration from Spain and Italy to keep the factories and farms spinning around the clock, the city's population grew from about 90,000 people in 1851 to 1.3 million people by 1910. By the beginning of World War I (1914–18), Argentina had become one of the world's top exporters
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of agricultural products, with most of it channeled through the Port of Buenos Aires. Yet, few benefited from the wealth. Large numbers of newcomers were forced into substandard housing. Workers could barely feed their families on low wages. Social unrest in the city reached a boiling point in 1919, when the army attacked metalworkers on strike. The suppression of the workers came to be known as La Semana Trágica (The Tragic Week). Buenos Aires kept on growing rapidly. By the 1930s, the city embarked on a modernization project, tearing down colonial neighborhoods and narrow streets and replacing them with modern buildings and wide avenues. Suburban communities and Buenos Aires grew closer to each other, becoming a massive metropolis after World War II (1939–45). The mid-twentieth century also marked a dramatic shift in migration. By 1930, international immigration came to a halt. The new migrants were mostly mestizos from northern Argentina. They poured into the city by the thousands. Unable to find suitable housing, they settled in the villas miserias around the city. The centralization of jobs, goods, and services in Buenos Aires brought prosperity to the city at the cost of other cities, where growth simply stopped. In time, it also hurt Buenos Aires. Buenos Aires today is a tired but proud city. It is obsessed with trying to fix its decaying infrastructure, to alleviate its heavy pollution, and to deal with massive poverty and chronic unem-
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Buenos Aires D.C., Buenos Aires has a voting member in Congress. Until 1996, the president appointed the mayor of Buenos Aires, and the elected city council had negligible power. By law, the president and congress controlled any legislation that affected the city. But constitutional reforms allowed Fernando de la Rúa to become the city's first elected mayor in 1996. In 1999, he was considered a top contender for the presidency. The city council was replaced with an elected 60-member Poder Legislativo (legislative power). The members are elected by proportional representation to four-year terms. City officials, including the mayor, are allowed to run for two consecutive terms but must sit out for a full term before running for office again. The design of the Palacio Del Congresso is similar to the U.S. capitol but unlike Washington, D.C. it has a voting member in Congress. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
ployment. Argentine officials have attempted to decentralize government by moving the federal city to other regions of Argentina; however, their attempts have not been successful. 7
Government
Like Washington, D.C., Buenos Aires is a federal district. It is home to the President of the Republic and National Congress. Unlike Washington,
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8
Public Safety
Statistics from the Buenos Aires government show a sharp increase in crime between 1991 and 1996. Crimes reported to police increased from 42,796 in 1991 to 126,920 in 1996. Homicides rose from 19 to 177 during the same period. Of great concern to the Buenos Aires population are crimes committed by police. In 1998, the United Nations Committee Against Torture reported its concerns over growing police brutality in Buenos Aires and the rest of the nation. Amnesty International, a London-based human rights organization, also noted police obstruction to prevent investigations of police brutality, the atrocious treatment of
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Buenos Aires prisoners, media.
and
attacks
against
the
Between 1976 and 1983, Argentina was ruled from Buenos Aires by a brutal dictatorship responsible for the murder of thousands of Argentineans, many of them in the capital city, where the police and military acted as a repressive force. As many as 9,000 Argentineans are among the "disappeared," people whose bodies have not been found. In recent years, Buenos Aires' new government has attempted to curb police abuses such as bribery and brutality by decriminalizing some activities, including prostitution and public drunkenness. 9
Economy
Throughout its history, the city has depended on its port, the largest in South America, for much of its economic activity. Argentina is heavily dependent on the export of its agricultural products, and most of it is processed and shipped from Buenos Aires. The intense trade helped Buenos Aires develop a diversified economy, and by the twentieth century the city was the nation's center of banking and finance. The city itself was unable to absorb the massive growth in trade-related and new industries during the twentieth century. Most of those jobs went to the suburbs, where about half of the nation's manufacturing jobs are located. Avellaneda, just south of the Federal District, is an important industrial center.
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While most workers are engaged in food processing, including grains, meat, and fish, others assemble cars, refine oil, or work in other factories. In the city, the workforce numbers about 1.4 million people, with about 36 percent involved in services, 18 percent in trade, 17 percent in manufacturing, and about 12 percent in finance, insurance, and real estate. As part of its economic plan, Argentina privatized many public assets during the 1990s, including many enterprises that affect the city. Some of the most important former public services that been sold or licensed to private companies include the phone company ENTel, the national airline Aerolineas Argentinas, the petroleum enterprise YPF, the mail system, and public transportation, including the underground metro service and regional commuter rail service. 10
Environment
The Riachuelo River is the most visible example of Buenos Aires' environmental problems. The river is littered with rusted ships, many of them barely floating on water that is heavily saturated with oil. The sediments are even a worse problem, with untold concentrations of heavy metals and chemical pollutants. The Río de la Plata also is heavily contaminated. Cleaning the waterways remains one of the city's most pressing problems. With hundreds of thousands of cars, buses, and trucks on the roads, the air is heavily polluted.
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Buenos Aires
Tren de la Costa shopping mall and amusement park. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
The city also has reported serious problems with feral (wild) cats and mice. 11
Shopping
Buenos Aires is famous for its leather and woolen goods. Leather jackets, saddles, boots, and many other items are sold at many expensive shops in the northern barrios of the city. Some downtown streets lined by shops have been closed to automobiles and turned into pedestrian malls. Buenos Aires is a well-read city, and hundreds of bookstores offer books in many languages. Expensive shops and malls similar to those in the United States are
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found throughout the city and the metropolitan area. 12
Education
Porteños are among the best-educated people in the world, with high literacy rates and school completion rates. The world-renowned University of Buenos Aires (1821) had more than 180,000 students enrolled in 1997. Its faculty members have earned Nobel Prizes in science and medical fields. In the Spanish-speaking world, Buenos Aires is a publishing powerhouse and home to important literary figures. In 1997, 664,273 students attended primary and secondary school. Most pri-
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Buenos Aires 13
Health Care
In 1995, Buenos Aires had more than 1,000 medical facilities, including 181 hospitals. More than 23,000 hospital beds are available at private and public hospitals. Many Argentineans come to Buenos Aires for special care not available in other parts of the country. The city has seven physicians per 1,000 residents. 14
Cleaning up the rivers is one environmental issue that Buenos Aires is trying to address. Here, an old ship sits in the renovated river front of the Puerto Madero area. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
mary and secondary schools are public, including special national high schools that function as college preparatory schools. The Roman Catholic Church also operates many private institutions, including two universities: Salvador University and Roman Catholic University. Other important institutions of higher learning are the private University of Belgrano, the National Conservatory of Music, and the National School of Fine Arts.
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Media
Buenos Aires is Argentina's media capital, with 49 book publishers, 29 periodicals, 14 daily newspapers, 12 foreign press offices, six television stations, and three news agencies. Newspapers in Buenos Aires have clearly defined political leanings, with some of them claiming a centrist position. The tabloid Clarín, with a daily circulation of 600,000 and more than one million on Sundays, is the world's largest Spanishlanguage newspaper. La Nación (1870) is one of the oldest and most respected newspapers in Latin America. The English-language Buenos Aires Herald has been publishing daily since 1876. Pagina 12 is a left-leaning newspaper known for its investigative pieces. 15
Sports
Buenos Aires and the greater metropolitan area are home to some of the most celebrated professional soccer teams in the world. Many of the top clubs got their start in Buenos Aires before moving to the suburbs. Eight of the 20 first-division teams are in the capital city, while five are in the sub-
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Buenos Aires urbs. Among the best-known teams are Boca Juniors, which plays at the famous La Bombonera stadium, and its archrival River Plate, which plays in the wealthy northern barrio of Nuñez. Independiente's home is just south of La Boca in the suburb of Avellaneda. Other well-known teams include Racing Club and San Lorenzo. The national team won the World Cup in Greater Buenos Aires in 1978 when the country hosted the event. Porteños are not limited to soccer. The country's long history and attachment to horses continue to fuel great interest in polo, horse racing and pato (duck), a game similar to polo that owes its root to Gaucho culture. Pato was once a violent game played with a real duck encased in a leather bag. Serious injuries were common. But the game has mellowed, and pato players now use a ball with handles instead of a real duck. Many other sports are popular in the city, including tennis, boxing, and basketball. 16
Parks and Recreation
The city has many parks and plazas, and they are quite busy on weekends when Porteños traditionally go out for a stroll. One of the city's largest parks is in Palermo. Within its grounds are a horse racing arena, polo fields, tennis courts, and bicycle and pedestrian paths. Nearby Plaza Alemania is a favorite hangout for young skateboarders. During the dictatorship years of 1976 to 1983, the military filled a large
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area in the Río de la Plata just east of the port as part of a plan to create a satellite city. The city never materialized, but birds and other wildlife took over the area. Today, it is known as Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, an ecological reserve popular with birdwatchers. 17
Performing Arts
The Teatro Colón is a beautiful building and symbolic of the importance given to the performing arts. The theater is home to the country's national ballet and national symphony. In recent years, Porteños have revived and firmly embraced the tango as a symbol of Porteño life. The old tango and the modern, sometimes experimental, tango are performed throughout the city, in important venues, seedy cafes, and often on the streets. Much like New York City, Buenos Aires has a lively theater culture, especially during the winter season when dozens of new plays open to the public. One of the main venues is the San Martin Municipal Theater, which has three main auditoriums and several smaller ones. Porteños are fond of peñas, a performance where folk songs and dances are accompanied by a hearty Argentinean meal. 18
Libraries and Museums
Buenos Aires is home to the National Library and dozens of public and private museums, some operated
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Buenos Aires
The Colón Theater Opera House is the home to Argentina’s national ballet and symphony. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
by the municipal government. Several museums are devoted to the history of the city and its residents. They include the Mitre Museum, dedicated to one of Argentina's earliest presidents, Bartolomé Mitre (president 1862–68); Museo de la Ciudad (the City Museum), and a museum dedicated to the economic history of the city and province of Buenos Aires. The Museo del Cine (the Cinema Museum) focuses on the long, and sometimes glorious, history of Argentine cinema. The National Historical Museum offers a portrait of the country, and the National Museum of Theater
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traces the history of Argentine theater. The National Museum of Fine Arts has the works of many of the world's greatest masters. The collection includes works by Argentinean painters and sculptors. 19
To u r i s m
Buenos Aires is a popular tourist destination, with more than ten million visitors annually. Most visitors are from Argentina and neighboring countries, but large numbers of visitors come from the United States and Europe. Tourism
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Buenos Aires is important to the city’s economy. During the summer of 1997–98 (December through March), two-and-a-half million visitors spent more than $900 million. The city has a wide variety of accommodations, from luxury hotels to simple rooms in private homes. In 1997, there were a total of 1,228 places to stay, with more than 84,000 beds. The city has much to offer visitors, from fine dining to sports and cultural activities. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Año Nuevo (New Year’s Day, January 1)
MARCH-APRIL Viernes Santo (Good Friday)
MAY Día del Trabajador (Labor Day, May 1) Revolucíon de Mayo (May Revolution, May 25)
Luis Maria Drago (1859–1921), statesman who became a respected member of the Permanent Court of Arbitration at The Hague, Netherlands, best known for the international law called the Drago Doctrine (1907). Alberto Evaristo Ginastera (1916–83), twentieth-century composer of opera known for combining nationalistic musical idioms with twentieth-century techniques. While the following notable citizens may not have been born in Buenos Aires, they are closely identified with the city: Former President Juan Domingo Perón (1895–1974), and his first wife, Eva Perón (1919–1952), both considered to be political and cultural icons of the nation.
JUNE Día de las Malvinas (Day of the Falkland Islands, June 10) Día de la Bandera (Flag Day, June 20)
Tango singer and actor Carlos Gardel (1890–1935).
JULY Independence Day (July 9)
AUGUST Día de San Martín (commemoration of San Martín’s death)
OCTOBER Día de la Raza (Columbus Day, Oct. 12)
21
Famous Citizens
Jorge Luis Borges (1899–1986), one of the most important writers in Latin American and world literature. Manuel Puig (1932–90), novelist, internationally known for his novel Kiss of the Spider Woman (1976).
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22
For Further Study
Websites Buenos Aires Herald (English-language). [Online] Availablehttp://www.bueonosairesherald.com (accessed April 17, 2000). Columbus World Travel Guide. “Buenos Aires.” [Online] Available http://www.travelguides.com/data/arg/arg140.asp (accessed April 17, 2000).
Government Offices Argentinean Embassy 1600 New Hampshire Ave. Washington D.C. 20009 Phone: 202 238–6460
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Buenos Aires U.S. Consulates: 5550 Wilshire Blvd. Suite 210 Los Angeles. CA 90036 Phone: 213 954–9155 205 N. Michigan Ave. Suite 4209 Chicago, IL. 60601 Phone: 312 819–2610
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Direccion General de Turismo de la Municipalidad de Buenos Aires (tourism offices for the city of Buenos Aires) Centro Cultural San Martin Sarmiento 1551 Montserrat, Buenos Aires Phone: 54–1–4476–3612 Direccion Nacional de Turismo (National Tourism Office) Ave. Santa Fe 883 Retiro, Buenos Aires Phone: 54–1–4312–2232
Books Adelman, Jeremy. Republic of Capital: Buenos Aires and the Legal Transformation of the
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Atlantic World. Stanford: Stanford University Press, 1999. APA Publications. Inside Guides: Buenos Aires. Singapore: Hoyer Press, 1998. Baily, Samuel L.and Franco Ramella (eds.). One Family, Two Worlds: An Italian Family's Correspondence Across the Atlantic: 1901–22. New Brunswick: Rutgers University Press, 1988. Bernhardson, Wayne. Buenos Aires, From Worldclass Opera to Tango Lessons. Victoria, Australia: Lonely Planet, 1999. France, Miranda. Bad Times in Buenos Aires: A Writer's Adventures in Argentina. New Jersey: Ecco Press, 1999. Reid, George Andrews. The Afro-Argentines of Buenos Aires: 1800–1900. Madison: University of Wisconsin Press, 1980. Ross, Stanley R.and Thomas F. McGann (eds.) Buenos Aires: 400 Years. Austin: University of Texas Press, 1982. Scobie, James R. Buenos Aires: Plaza to Suburb, 1870–1910. New York: Oxford University Press, 1974. Sofer, Eugene F. From Pale to Pampa. A Social History of the Jews of Buenos Aires. New York: Holmes & Meier, 1982. Shumway, Nicolas. The Invention of Argentina. Berkeley and Los Angeles: University of California Press, 1991.
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Cairo Cairo, Egypt, Africa Founded: A.D. 969 Location: Near the head of the Nile River delta, Egypt; northeastern Africa Time Zone: 2 PM Cairo time = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Elevation: 194 m (636 ft) Latitude and Longitude: 43º40'N, 79º22'W Coastline: (Greater Cairo) approximately 27 km (17 mi) Climate: Desert climate, with hot summers and mild winters; rain is rare, and hamsin dust storms can occur in the spring. Annual Mean Temperature: January -4ºC (24ºF); July 21.7ºC (71ºF) Seasonal Average Snowfall: 141 cm (55.5 in) Average Annual Precipitation (total of rainfall and melted snow): 81.3 cm (32 in) Government: governor-council Weights and Measures: Metric Monetary Units: Egyptian pounds Telephone Area Codes: 20 (Egypt), 02 (Cairo)
1
Introduction
Located on the banks of the Nile River, Cairo is Africa’s largest city, as well as the largest city in the Arab world. In the course of its thousandyear history it has been the capital of the great Egyptian dynasties of the Middle Ages, a British colonial enclave, and a modern industrialized city. Today it is a teeming, vibrant national capital with one of the world’s highest population densities per square mile. Even as the city struggles with the social and environmental effects of overcrowding, it dominates Egypt politically, economically, and culturally and remains a prime tourist destination in spite of a campaign of terrorist activity by Islamic
extremists seeking to destabilize the country’s government. 2
Getting There
Cairo, the largest city in Africa, is located on the Nile River, 160 kilometers (100 miles) inland from the Mediterranean Sea and 135 kilometers (80 miles) west of the Red Sea. Highways Cairo is connected by highway with all other major cities in Egypt. The Desert Road links Cairo and Alexandria; there are main roads connecting Cairo with Ismailiyyah and Luxor. In addition, there is the Red Sea Highway, completed in the early 1990s. Roads connect Cairo with Libya to the west
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Cairo
Cairo Population Profile
Alexandria, and buses run between Cairo and all major towns. Airports
City Proper Population: 9,690,000 Area: 20 sq km (7.7 sq mi) Nicknames: Mother of the World, The WellGuarded
Metropolitan Area Population: 12,000,000 Description: Central Cairo, Giza, Shubra alKhaymah, and parts of Giza and Qalyubiyah provinces Area: 215 sq km (83 sq mi) World population rank1: 17 Percentage of national population2: 16% Average yearly growth rate: 2.1% ——— 1. The Cairo metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of Egypt’s total population living in the Cairo metropolitan area.
and Israel to the east (however, special permission must be obtained to enter Egypt from Israel in a private vehicle). Bus and Railroad Service Rail service is available between Cairo and all areas of the Nile River Valley. An air-conditioned nonstop express train, the turbino, makes three trips daily between Cairo and Alexandria. Cairo’s main railway station is located at Maydan Ramsis. Several bus companies offer inter-city bus service between Cairo and Alexandria, the Nile Valley, the Red Sea, Sinai Peninsula, the Suez Canal, and other destinations. There is nonstop bus service between Cairo and
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Cairo International Airport, an important connecting point between Europe, Asia, and Africa, offers regular service by most major airlines. EgyptAir offers both domestic flights to Luxor, Aswan, and Hurghada and international service. Shipping Although it is located on the Nile River, Cairo is not one of Egypt’s major shipping cities, all of which have ports on the Mediterranean (Alexandria, Suez, and Port Said). 3
Getting Around
Greater Cairo is spread out over both banks of the Nile River, which runs north-south through the center of the city. The neighborhoods of Gizah, Aguza, Mohandisin are on the west bank, the districts of Gazirah and Geziret Al-Rawdah on islands in the river, and the major urban center on the east bank, together with a number of suburbs. Downtown Cairo’s streets and avenues are laid out around a series of traffic circles—Maydan Talaat Harb, Maydan Orabi, Maydan Mustafa Kamel, and, at the heart of the city, Maydan Tahrir. Bus and Commuter Rail Service Packed buses offer local service in Cairo, stopping at the Maydan Tahrir, the Maydan Ataba and Opera Square, the Pyramids Road, Ramses Station, and
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Cairo
the Citadel. Minibuses offer more reliable and somewhat more expensive service. Also available are privately owned and operated 12-seat taxis. Cairo’s commuter rail service, the Metro, runs both above- and underground. The trains are clean; service is efficient; and fares are reasonable. Sightseeing Organized tours to Cairo’s major tourist attractions, such as the Giza and
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Saqqara pyramids and the Sphinx, are offered by hotels, private guides, and travel agencies. 4
People
More than one-quarter of all Egyptians live in Cairo. The population of the city proper stood at 9,690,000 in 1998 while the population of the greater metropolitan area has been variously estimated between 12 and 18 mil-
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Cairo lion. The city’s population is more homogenous today than during the colonial period when large numbers of Europeans lived in Cairo. Today about 95 percent of the city’s residents were born in Egypt, and 90 percent are Muslims. Cairo’s population also includes significant numbers of people from other African countries, especially Sudan (Sudanese are thought to number about 400,000). About 20,000 African Muslims from other countries are students at Al-Azhar University. Even more are refugees who fled their homelands. 5
Neighborhoods
Downtown Cairo, whose center is the plaza of Maydan Tahrir, is a bustling district of shops, restaurants, hotels, and other commercial establishments, as well as museums, gardens, and art galleries. It also affords a scenic view of the Nile River. To the east of central Cairo is the walled medieval section of the city known as Islamic Cairo, which includes poorer residential districts, historic architecture dating back over a thousand years, and the bustling Khan Khalili marketplace. Its main street, Shar’a Mu’iz, is lined with buildings from several eras of Egyptian history, including those of the early dynasties before the Ottoman Era. Garden City, south of Maydan Tahrir, is an upscale district with expensive homes and numerous embassies. To the east is the area dominated by the Citadel, a medieval fortress that was
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home to Egypt’s rulers for some 700 years. In the vicinity are three mosques and several museums. Northeast of Cairo’s central and historic districts is the wealthy residential suburb of Heliopolis, home to Egypt’s former president Gamal Abdel Nasser. Although named for an ancient Egyptian city, Heliopolis was actually planned and laid out with reference to European models and is more spacious than other parts of Cairo. (Egyptians generally call the suburb Masr alGedida, or New Cairo). Many members of the professional classes live in the neighborhood, which has a large Christian minority. The exclusive residential suburb of Zamalek—Cairo’s wealthiest neighborhood—is located on the island of Gazirah, occupying the northern twothirds of the island; the remainder is the site of private sports clubs and parks. The newer suburbs of Duqqi, Mohandisin, Aguza, Gizah, and Imbabah are located on the west bank of the Nile, opposite the older part of the city. 6
History
The first settlement in the region of present-day Cairo was al-Fustat, founded in A.D. 641 as a military encampment by the Arabic commander 'Amr ibn al-'As. Under the dynasties that ruled Egypt over the following centuries, the town grew into a major port city. In A.D. 969 Jawhar, the leader of an Islamic sect called the Fatimids,
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Cairo
City Fact Comparison Cairo (Egypt)
New York (United States)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
10,772,000
16,626,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
AD 969
1613
753 BC
723 BC
$193
$198
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$56
$44
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$14
$26
$15
$16
$173
$244
$246
$207
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
Total daily costs (hotel, meals, incidentals) Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
13
10
20
11
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
The Wall Street Journal
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
1,159,339
1,740,450
754,930
3,000,000
1944
1889
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
founded a new city near al-Fustat, initially naming it al-Mansuriyah (its name was later changed to al-Qahirah, or Cairo). When the Fatimids became the rulers of Egypt, founding a dynasty that lasted for two centuries, Cairo became their capital. When Saladin, a Sunni Muslim, defeated the Crusaders and founded the Ayyubid dynasty in the twelfth century, he retained Cairo as his capital, and it became the center of a vast empire. (AlFustat, however, was burned down as part of the “scorched earth” strategy that defeated the Crusaders.) In the thirteenth century, the Ayyubids were
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eclipsed by Turkish military conquerors known as the Mamluks, who ruled Egypt from A.D. 1260 to 1516. During the first hundred years of Mamluk rule, Cairo experienced its most illustrious period. Al-Azhar University, which had been founded in the tenth century, became the foremost center of learning in the Islamic world, and Cairo played a key role in the east-west spice trade. Most of its greatest buildings were constructed during this period. Starting in the second half of the fourteenth century, Cairo experienced a decline, beginning with the scourge of the Black Death (1348) and other epi-
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Cairo
Cairo skyline along the Nile River. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
demics. By the end of the fifteenth century, new trade routes had broken the city’s monopoly on the spice trade, and in 1517 the Ottoman sultan Selim I (r. 1512–20) conquered Egypt, defeating the Mamluk forces at Ar Raydaniyah, outside Cairo, and the city came under Turkish rule. Under the Ottomans, Cairo was reduced to a provincial capital, and by the end of the eighteenth century, its population had declined to under 300,000. The city was occupied by Napoleon’s troops between 1798 and 1801 but then returned to Turkish rule. The modernization of Egypt and its capital began under Mehemet ’Ali (c.
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1769–1849), often called the “father of modern Egypt,” who ruled the country for nearly half a century beginning in 1805, modernizing and strengthening it, and expanding its borders. Modernization of Cairo began in 1830, but the period of greatest progress occurred during the reign of Ismail Pasha (r. 1863-79). Pasha undertook a major modernization of the city modeled on the renovation of Paris under Napoleon III (1808–1873). To the west of the older, medieval part of Cairo (now called Islamic Cairo), a newer section of the city boasted wide avenues laid out around circular plazas in the style of a
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Cairo European city. The development of this area was also influenced by the growth of French and British colonial power in Egypt. The advent of the twentieth century saw advances in bridge building and flood control, which encouraged riverfront development. By 1927, Cairo’s population had reached one million. In the first half of the century, Cairo was dominated by foreign influences. During World War I (1914–18), it became the center for British military operations in the region, and British troops were headquartered in the city. The British military presence in Egypt was curtailed in the 1920s, but the country was reoccupied by British forces during World War II (1939– 1945). With the Egyptian Revolution in 1952, the colonial presence in Cairo— and throughout the country—came to an end. Since then, large numbers of Egyptians from other parts of the country have migrated to the capital, and the government has worked to accommodate a rapidly growing urban population by creating new, planned suburbs, including Nasr City, Muqattam City, and Engineers’ City. In recent decades, Cairo has become the nation’s industrial, commercial, and cultural center, as well as the seat of its government. 7
Government
Cairo has only had a municipal government since 1950, and Egypt’s
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central government plays a large role in administering the capital, controlling its budget and spending programs. The city’s municipal government consists of a governor, who is appointed by the president of Egypt, and a council called the Popular Assembly, which includes both appointed and elected members. Only the elected members can vote. 8
Public Safety
Although Cairo is notorious for government corruption, it is known as a safe city with a much lower incidence of violent crime than most major Western cities. Petty theft—especially pickpocketing—is known to occur, and in recent years there have been some reports of armed robbery and sales of hard drugs. However, the major form of violence to which Cairo has been subjected is terrorism. In 1992 Islamic extremists began a campaign of terrorism aimed at overthrowing the secular government of President Hosni Mubarak. Within the first four years, 920 people had died, including 25 foreign visitors. Terrorism persisted in the latter part of the 1990s in spite of a government crackdown on extremist groups. 9
Economy
Cairo is the economic center of Egypt, with two-thirds of the country’s gross national product generated in the greater metropolitan area. Industrialization, which began in the nineteenth
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Cairo century, grew rapidly following the 1952 revolution and revolved primarily around textiles (based on Egypt’s traditional economic mainstay, long-staple cotton) and food processing. Other industries include iron and steel production and consumer goods. Today the majority of Cairo’s work force is employed in service sector jobs, especially in government, financial services, and commerce. The tourism industry is a major source of revenue for the country, along with weapons sales, petroleum, and Suez Canal tariffs (following nationalization of the canal on July 26, 1956). Foreign aid from other countries is also an important source of income. Although government agricultural subsidies, cheap public transportation, and low-cost medical care help keep Cairo’s cost of living relatively low, the average Cairene still struggle to make ends meet, often holding down two or more jobs, or going overseas to find work and send money home. The poorest are forced to send their children to work as early as eight or nine years of age, often in “sweatshops” producing manufactured goods. 10
Environment
Industrial and vehicular emissions combine to give Cairo a serious air pollution problem. Thousands of old vehicles crowd the city streets without government regulation of emission levels, and the city’s factories create additional environmental hazards. Levels of both lead and particulate emissions far exceed internationally acceptable stan-
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dards. In the 1990s the Egyptian government began a serious effort to improve the city’s air quality, with legislation requiring air filters in factories as well as an air-quality-improvement project, the Cairo Air Improvement Project (CAIP), designed to reduce pollution from lead and particulates. CAIP’s goals included development of a vehicle emission testing and certification program; increasing the use of compressed natural gas a fuel in municipal buses; the upgrading and relocation of secondary lead smelters; and air quality monitoring and analysis. 11
Shopping
Cairo’s most famous shopping venue is the Khan al-Khalili Bazaar, a large open-air market located amid medieval ruins. Featured among its wares is the handiwork of local craftsmen working in gold, silver, copper, brass, ivory, and leather, as well as such items as carpets and perfumes. The Tentmakers’ Bazaar (Khiyamiyyah) in the old part of the city is known for its appliqué. In both the Khan al-Khalili and the myriad of other bazaars in the city, bargaining is a universal practice, for both tourists and locals alike. Other items available in the city’s bazaars and boutiques include handwoven rugs, ceramics, glassware, inlaid boxes, handwoven goods made from rattan and palm fiber, antiques, and a variety of clothing. A number of artisans sell high-quality crafts at their own shops or galleries.
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Cairo
The Khan al-Khalili Bazaar, Cairo’s most famous shopping venue, features handiwork, carpets, perfumes, fruits and grains. (Adam Woolfitt; Woodfin Camp)
12
Education
Primary education is free and compulsory in Cairo, as elsewhere in Egypt, and university tuition has been free since 1962. In the 1990s, Egypt’s first lady, Suzanne Mubarak, spearheaded a program to improve literacy that included the creation of new public libraries; the “Reading for All” program to make inexpensive juvenile books
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available to children throughout the country; and a series of international book fairs. The Children’s Cultural Center was officially opened by Mrs. Mubarak in Heliopolis in 1997. Founded in the tenth century, AlAzhar University, the premier center of religious instruction in the Islamic world, is said to be the oldest continuously operating university in the world.
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Cairo
Al-Azhar University is said to be the world’s oldest operating university. Post-secondary education has been free in Egypt since 1962. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
Cairo University, founded in 1908, produces the country’s largest number of college graduates and college-educated professionals. It has about 155,000 students and 3,158 faculty members, operates some 100 research institutes and offers programs in agriculture, medicine, nursing, economics, political science, the arts, and other fields. Most facilities of the university’s main campus are located to the southeast of downtown Cairo, and it operates branches in Al Fayyum and Bani Suwayf, as well as Khartoum (Sudan).
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Cairo’s third major institution of higher learning is Ain Shams University. Located in the heart of the city, it enrolls approximately 100,000 undergraduates and 30,000 graduate students and has a faculty of 3,700. 13
Health Care
Cairo is Egypt’s major center for health care. It has the greatest concentration of medical facilities in the country, including government hospitals, such as Qasr al-Ayni and Dimardash; smaller private hospitals, such as the
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Cairo Anglo-American Hospital; and facilities affiliated with university medical programs. There are also hospitals and clinics for the treatment of specific types of problems, including several that specialize in eye disorders. 14
Media
Cairo is the only city in Egypt with daily newspapers, of which it has four (all distributed nationally). The oldest and best known is Al-Ahram, founded in 1876 in Alexandria. Others include Al-Alam al-Yom, a newer and livelier paper with a strong business focus, and a local edition of the Arabic world daily, Al-Hayat. Daily newspapers are also published in English (The Egyptian Gazette) and French (Le Progrès Egyptien and Le Journal d’Égypte). Two Englishlanguage weeklies also appear: AlAhram Weekly and Middle East Times. A monthly magazine, Egypt Today, features general-interest articles and events listings and is affiliated with two other monthlies, Sports & Fitness and Business Today. Three government-operated television stations broadcast in Arabic and are supplemented by at least a halfdozen private stations, and satellite and cable TV are also available at some locations. Both AM and FM radio stations are in operation throughout the week. 15
Sports
Soccer is Cairo’s (and Egypt’s) most popular sport, boasting players of international stature. Matches are played every weekend to sell-out crowds, and
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the city’s residents eagerly follow games by its two leading teams, Zamalek and Ahli. The soccer season runs from September to May, and matches are held in Cairo Stadium. Horse racing can be seen at the Heliopolis Hippodrome. Every year the city hosts the Cairo Classic, a running and cycling event. 16
Parks and Recreation
The Zoological Garden (Hadiiqat al-Hayawaan), located in the southern suburb of Giza, is over 100 years old. When it was founded in 1891, it contained the private menagerie of Egyptian ruler Khedive Ismail, and for years it was one of the world’s premier zoos. Although the zoological garden no longer serves as a noteworthy botanical or zoological attraction, it remains a popular recreation area for local residents, who use it for sports, picnics, and other activities. There are several parks, as well as sporting clubs, located in the southern part of the island of Gazirah, whose northern section is occupied by the suburb of Zamalek. With their warm climate, Cairo residents enjoy spending their leisure time in outdoor activities, from strolling and window shopping to swimming and picnicking in open areas surrounding the city. The best venues for participant sports are the city’s exclusive sports clubs, made up of middle- and upperclass Cairenes. The most prestigious is the Gazirah Sporting club, which offers facilities for basketball, squash, and ten-
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Cairo nis, as well as a golf course, two swimming pools, a running track, and a croquet lawn. Skeet shooting is offered at the neighboring Shooting Club in Dokki. Cairo also has a rugby club, yacht clubs, and a diving club. 17
Performing Arts
The new Cairo Opera House (National Cultural Centre), rebuilt in the 1980s after the nineteenth-century original was destroyed by fire in 1971, is the city’s principal performing-arts venue. The Cairo Opera House presents touring theater and ballet troupes and musical groups, as well as local performers, including the Cairo Opera Ballet Company and the Cairo Orchestra. Located in the parklike setting of the Gazirah Exhibition Grounds on the island of Gazirah, the opera house complex includes an open-air theater and amphitheater, as well as two indoor halls (a main one and a smaller one). A newer facility, the 2,500-seat Cairo International Conference Centre in the suburb of Madinat Nasr, was a gift from the Chinese in 1991. It opened the following year with a performance by the Grigorovich Ballet of Russia’s Bolshoi Theatre. Popular performance sites in Islamic Cairo, especially during the holiday period of Ramadan, are the House of Zeinab Khatoun and the Al-Ghouri complex. Plays and recitals are also presented at the Ewart Hall and Wallace Theater on the campus of American University in Cairo.
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Cairo is a center of legitimate Arabic theater, although performances are subject to government censorship. Both ballet and modern dance are exceptionally popular in Cairo, whose ballet company (the Cairo Ballet) was founded in 1960 with help from the Soviet Union, which sent its own dance teachers to help train the members of the company. However with the expulsion of Soviet advisers from Egypt in 1972, the Russian presence at the ballet ended. The quality of the troupe is subsequently said to have declined, and in 1991 it was bolstered by the addition of dancers from Russia and Italy. Cairo is the film capital of the Arabic world, although its film industry has declined since its heyday in the 1940s and 1950s, thanks to strict censorship and economic factors. However, Cairo’s residents are avid filmgoers and flock to both Egyptian and foreign movies. The Cairo Puppet Theater performs at the Ezbekiyya Gardens north of Ataba from October through May. 18
Libraries and Museums
The Greater Cairo Library, housed in a restored villa in Zamalek, is over 100 years old. Its holdings include books in Arabic, German, French, and English. A research library, its collection contains only non-circulating items, but its operating hours are extensive. It has good collections in the areas of art and science, as well as international periodicals. Included in its map collec-
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Cairo grams for children and has a high-tech multimedia auditorium. The newer El Mustaqbal Library has only non-circulating materials. English-language books are available in libraries at the British Council and the American Cultural Centre. Cairo University has a central library, additional libraries for various disciplines, and some 100 scientific research centers.
Tutankhamun’s (d. c. 1340 B.C.) death mask, along with his tomb and other artifacts are on display in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. (GN/Mairani; Woodfin Camp)
tion are hand-drawn maps of Cairo dating back to 1480. The Mubarak Library is located in Giza. Opened in 1995, it provides a popular library of circulating materials, with a large collection of books, magazines, newspapers, CDs, cassettes, and videos. Special services include story hours and puppet shows for preschoolers. There are also two libraries in the suburb of Heliopolis. The older Heliopolis Public Library offers organized pro-
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Cairo’s cultural legacy is evident in its rich and varied museum collections. The Egyptian Museum at Maydan Tahrir houses the city’s premier collection of over 100,000 artifacts from nearly every period of Egyptian history. The museum’s neoclassical building, which dates from 1902, has received updated security and lighting following a daring 1996 robbery attempt, and there has long been talk of building a new facility that can more adequately house the museum’s voluminous holdings. Among these holdings are the treasures of Tutankhamun (d. c. 1340 B.C.), a royal mummy room, artifacts from the Old and Middle kingdoms, jewelry rooms, and animal mummies. The Coptic Museum, located in Misr al-Qadimah, displays items from the pre-Islamic period, including textiles, stones, and religious icons. A church on the museum grounds, popularly known as the Hanging Church, is said to date back to the fourth century A.D. and is thought to be the earliest place of Christian worship in Cairo. The renovated Museum of Islamic Art, in Bab Zuweyla, houses brass, wood, glass, inlaid items, textiles, carpets, and fountains from the Mamluk and Ottoman
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Cairo tral to the local economy. Roughly onethird of Egypt’s hotels (including three Hilton hotels) are located in the city, and souvenir shops and restaurants cater to travelers and locals alike. In the 1990s, Egypt’s $4.1 billion dollar per year tourist industry was threatened by terrorist attacks by Muslim extremists seeking to overthrow the secular government of Hosni Mubarak. In 1996 terrorists killed 18 members of a Greek tour group as they left a hotel on the outskirts of the city, bound for the Pyramids. The following year, nine German tourists were killed in an assault on a tour bus in front of the Egyptian Museum. In 1996, visitors to Egypt numbered 3,895,942. Tourists can find the Giza Pyramids grazing the skyline in the outskirts of the city. (Barry Iverson; Woodfin Camp)
eras, as well as Mamluk Korans and illuminated manuscripts. Other museums in Cairo include the War Museum, the Egyptian National Railways Museum, the Museum of Modern Art, and National Military Museum, as well as a post office Museum, an agricultural museum, and a carriage museum. 19
To u r i s m
Popular for its warm climate and famous as the home of King Tutankhamun's treasures, Cairo is Egypt’s most popular tourist city, and tourism is cen-
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20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY New Year’s Day Cairo Book Fair
APRIL Sinai Liberation Day Images Festival of Independent Film and Video
MAY May Day
JULY Revolution Day
SEPTEMBER Experimental Theatre Festival
OCTOBER National Day Pharaohs’ Rally
NOVEMBER Arabic Music Festival
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Cairo DECEMBER Cairo International Film Festival
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Famous Citizens
Auguste Mariette (1821–1881), Frenchborn archaeologist. Saad Zaghlul (1857–1927), early nationalist leader. Taha Husayn (1889–1973), controversial historian. Naguib Mahfouz (b. 1911), Nobel Prizewinning novelist.
Embassy of the United States of America 5 Latin America Street Garden City Cairo, Egypt
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Egyptian Ministry of Tourism Misr Travel Tower Abbassia Square Cairo, Egypt Tourist Friends Association 33 Qasr el-Nil, 9th Floor Cairo, Egypt
Publications
Abbas al-Aqqad (1889–1964), poet.
Al Ahram Sharia al-Galaa Post No.11511 Cairo, Egypt
Tawfiq al-Hakim (1898–1987), playwright and leading figure in modern Egyptian literature.
Al Hayat 1 Latin America St. Garden City Cairo, Egypt
Yusuf Idris (1927–1991), groundbreaking playwright and short-story writer.
Egyptian Gazette 24-26 Sharia Zakaria Ahmed St. Al Tahir Cairo, Egypt
King Faruk (1920–1965), Egypt’s last ruling monarch.
Books
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For Further Study
Websites Egypt World Wide Web Index. [Online] Available http://www.pharos.bu.edu/Egypt/ Home.html (accessed October 7, 1999). Egyptian Ministry of Tourism. [Online] Available http://interoz.com/Egypt (accessed October 7, 1999). Middle East Times. [Online] Available http:// www.metimes.com (accessed October 7, 1999).
Government Offices Cairo Chamber of Commerce 4 Maydan Falaki Bab al-Luq Cairo, Egypt
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Abu Lughod, Janet. Cairo: 1001 Years of the City Victorious. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1971. Freeman-Grenville, G. S. P. The Beauty of Cairo: A Historical Guide to the Chief Islamic and Coptic Monuments. London: East-West Publications, 1981. Gaston, Wiet. Cairo: City of Art and Commerce. Trans. Seymour Feiler. Norman, OK: University of Oklahoma Press, 1964. Ghosh, Amitav. In an Antique Land. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1993. Raafat, Samir. Maadi 1904–1962: Society and History in a Cairo Suburb. Cairo: Palm Press, 1994. Roberts, Paul William. River in the Desert: Modern Travels in Ancient Egypt. New York: Random House, 1993. Rodenbeck, Max. Cairo: The City Victorious. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1999. Stewart, Desmond. Cairo: 5500 Years. New York: Crowell, 1968.
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Cairo Wikan, Unni. Tomorrow, God-willing: Self-made Destinies in Cairo. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1996. Williams, Caroline. Islamic Monuments in Cairo: A Practical Guide. Cairo: American University in Cairo Press, 1993.
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Videorecordings Egypt 1 [videorecording] : Cairo & the Pyramids. Derry, NH: Chip Taylor Communications, 1991. 1 videocassette (16 min.): sd., col.; 1/2 in. “Exploring the World” series. Travel magazine.
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Caracas Caracas, Venezuela, South America Founded: July 25, 1567 Location: North-central Venezuela, South America Flag: Coat of arms on a deep red field. Time Zone: 8 AM = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: 80% mestizos (of mixed European, Indian and African ancestry), 20% white, 8% black, and 2% Indian Latitude and Longitude: 10° 30’N, 66° 56’W Coastline: On the coast, approximately 25 km from the port of La Guaira Climate: Subtropical Annual Mean Temperature: From 10° to 25° C (50° to 70° F) Government: Federal Republic. Caracas is ruled as a federal district; it is the center of all government in Venezuela and hosts the executive, judicial and legislative branches of government. Weights and Measures: Metric system Monetary Units: The bolivar, a paper currency of 100 centimos Telephone Area Codes: 58 (Venezuela country code); 02 (Caracas city code) Postal Codes: None
1
Introduction
Located in the central north region of Venezuela, Caracas is a sophisticated, cosmopolitan city with a fast-growing population. The words of Simón Bolívar, liberator of the country, after the 1812 earthquake, appropriately describe the plight of this Venezuelan capital: “If nature opposes us, we will fight against it and force it to obey.” When Diego de Losada founded the city, he believed he had found the ideal location—a city in a valley with agricultural potential, warm days, cool nights, and proximity to a port. He could not have imagined the incredible growth the city has experienced in the last few decades. Modern-day Caracas is indeed a city in a
valley, but one that is surrounded by shantytowns covering the hillsides in every direction. It is a city continually fighting pollution, traffic, and crime spurred by urbanization and mismanagement. Despite its problems, Caracas’s traditional charm, coupled with its reputation as one of Latin America’s most modern capitals, has for years drawn visitors from all over the world to its wonderful restaurants, museums, and nightlife. 2
Getting There
Most people entering Venezuela do so via Caracas.
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Caracas
Caracas Population Profile Population: 3,153,000 Area: 1,930 sq km (740 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 80% mestizos (of mixed European, Indian and African ancestry); 20% white, 8% black, and 2% Indian World population rank1: 92 Percentage of national population2: 13.1% Average yearly growth rate: 1.0% Nicknames: The City of Eternal Spring ——— 1. The Caracas metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of Venezuela’s total population living in the Caracas metropolitan area.
Bus Few foreigners arrive in Caracas by bus, but buses run daily from most Venezuelan cities and cover the entire country. The inexpensive buses arrive at the noisy, dirty and dangerous terminal of Nuevo Circo, located in the Caracas city center. Airports The Simón Bolívar International Airport of Maiquetía is located near the port of La Guiara on the Caribbean coast, approximately 25 kilometers (16 miles) from the Caracas city center. A highway connects the airport with the city. The airport has two terminals: one for national flights (daily to Maracaibo, Mérida, and other major Venezuelan cities), and another for international flights. There are daily flights from Miami (approximately a two-and-a-
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half-hour flight) and New York (approximately a six-and-a-half-hour flight) and many major European cities. The most common U.S. airline with the most routes to Caracas is American Airlines, and the Venezuelan national airlines of Avensa and Aeropostal also offer direct service from Miami. The Maiquetía airport also offers service to most Latin American capitals. There is a frequent bus service from the airport to the city center; travelers may also take taxis or arrange for hotel pick-ups. Shipping The port of La Guiara is one of the busiest ports in the country, but passenger service is not available. However, several Caribbean cruise lines do make common one-day stops in the Caracas area. 3
Getting Around
Bus and Commuter Rail Service The French-built Caracas metro, completed in 1983, is clean, efficient, and safe. It is by far the best way to get around the city and is organized into two lines. Line 1 travels east-west, and Line 2 travels from the city center southwest toward the zoo and the suburb of Caricuao. A Metrobus is also available for the suburbs not covered by the metro lines. The metro is open from 5:30 AM to 11:00 PM, and fare is typically a maximum of 50 cents (in US currency). For routes not covered by the metro, the Caracas bus network is
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Caracas
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Caracas extensive in the city and surrounding areas. Most buses in the city are smaller buses, known as carritos. Inexpensive though they may be, the buses are often a difficult way to travel as they are overcrowded and frequently get caught in daily traffic jams, making them a slow means of transport. Sightseeing The city offers a variety of good museums, excellent restaurants, and a lively night life. Sightseers may begin their tour of the city at Plaza Bolivar, the heart of the city center. The Catedral, Palacio de Gobierno and Palacio Municipal are located on the sides of the plaza. In the city center is the Capitolio Nacional and the Casa Natal de Bolívar, where the famous liberator Simón Bolívar was born. 4
People
Caracas is a city of migrants and immigrants from all over the world; its people are mestizos, coupled with immigrants from Italy, Portugal, and many Latin American countries. The breakdown of the Venezuelan population is approximately 80 percent mestizos (of mixed European, Indian and African ancestry), 20 percent white, eight percent black, and two percent Indian. Caraqueños (the people of Caracas) reflect the same breakdown and are proud of their modern, cosmopolitan city. They too reflect the sophistication and modernity for which their city is known. Since Caracas is the business and political capital of the country, people generally dress up more than in
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the smaller cities. The people of Caracas also present contrasting images—while on one hand the city is full of many (often wealthy) professionals, it is a also a city surrounded by slums and a poverty-stricken, struggling lower class. Many rural people emigrate here for work, and the class differences of rich and poor are clear to most visitors upon looking up the hillsides at the slums that occupy them. 5
Neighborhoods
Caracas covers 20 kilometers (12 miles) along the valley in an east-west direction. The city center is made up of skyscrapers from the neighborhoods of El Silencio to Chacao, areas crammed with banks, offices, shops, restaurants, and public buildings. The historic quarter is west of the city center, and to the east the district Los Caobos is known for its museums. The Sabana Grande neighborhood is a pedestrian mall, filled with shops and restaurants. To the east of the city center are the commercial districts of Chacao and Chacaíto. South of these areas lie El Rosal and Las Mercedes with many well-known restaurants. The wealthy residential neighborhoods are the Caracas Country Club and Altamira, located to the north. The Parque Nacional El Ávila to the north is uninhabited. Because it did not have the riches or sophisticated native populations of other Latin American countries, Caraqueños did not have strong ties to the old colonial buildings and way of life. They actually embraced modernity,
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Caracas
City Fact Comparison Caracas (Venezuela)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
3,153,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
25 July 1567
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$164
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$71
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$18
$14
$15
$16
$253
$173
$246
$207
16
13
20
11
Meridiano
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
300,000
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1969
1944
1976
1948
Total daily costs (hotel, meals, incidentals) Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established 1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
much more so than their counterparts across the continent. Therefore, colonial Caracas exists only in a small area of town around the deteriorating La Pastora neighborhood and Plaza Bolivar, downtown in the city center. 6
History
Discovered by Francisco Fajardo from the nearby Margarita Island in 1560, the valley that is now Caracas was originally inhabited by the fierce Toromaima Indian tribe. Fajardo founded the first settlement, named San Francisco, and began his subsequent attempts to drive out the indige-
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nous population. The native peoples prevailed; however, in 1561 the founder of the Venezuelan city of Mérida, Juan Rodríguez Suárez, revived the city, after the indigenous tribes had destroyed it, and named it Villa de San Francisco. In 1567, the governor of the province of Venezuela ordered a complete conquest of the valley, and Captain Diego de Losada finally defeated the tribe and re-established the settlement on July 25 of the same year under the name Santiago de León de Caracas. In 1577, the governor Juan de Pimentel nominated the town to become the administrative center of the Province of
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Caracas
Caracas is nestled in a valley of the foothills of the Andes Mountains. (Gary Braasch; Woodfin Camp)
Venezuela; thus, Caracas became the third and final capital of Venezuela. In 1578, 60 families lived in the 25-block city. Caracas was never a popular city— it lacked the gold and riches of other cities in Peru and Mexico and was well known for pirate attacks, plagues, and other catastrophes. In 1595, the first pirate attack burned the city to the ground, and after persistent reconstruction, it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1641 that claimed the lives of approximately 500 citizens. Things improved in the eighteenth century: the Universidad Real y Pontificia de Caracas (now called the Univer-
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sidad Central de Venezuela) was founded in 1725. In 1728, the trading company Real Compañía Guipuzcoana, made up of 700 captains and merchants from the Basque region of Spain, was established. The trading company dominated trade between Spain and the colony and made significant economic contributions to Caracas, though many of its citizens complained of corruption. It was no surprise then when, in 1749, Juan Francisco de León began a riot against the company that would become known as the first open protest to lead into the independence movement. Francisco de
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Caracas Miranda (b. 1750) is largely credited for paving the way to the independence movement, and Simón Bolívar (1783– 1830) for actually achieving it. However, the independence struggle was not easy. In 1810, a group of Caraqueños formed a coup to take over the government, denouncing the Spanish governor’s authority. The clash continued until July 5, 1811, when Venezuela finally declared its independence from Spain. Although independence was won, struggles of a different sort continued. In 1812, an earthquake struck and killed 10,000 people—destroying much of the city. The church took the opportunity to claim the disaster as a punishment from God for rebelling against the Spanish Crown. Simón Bolívar’s victory at the Battle of Carabobo in 1821 again established the independence of Venezuela, though Spain did not recognize it as a country until 1845. In the first part of the twenieth century, Caracas grew modestly and was not known for much. It was not until oil was discovered in the Maracaibo basin in 1914, and the oil boom of the 1970s hit, that the population of Caracas exploded—going from 350,000 in 1950 to five or six million today. Thanks to the oil money, Caracas became a modern, booming capital. Though remnants of the old colonial town are difficult to imagine (most colonial buildings were destroyed during modernization), its architecture is well known on the continent, and skyscrapers abound.
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Venezuela has one of the oldest democracies in South America. Here, school children march on the National Capital during “a week of our own rights.” (Gary Braasch; Woodfin Camp)
7
Government
Venezuela has one of the longestrunning democracies in Latin America. It is a federal republic with a National Congress. It recently passed a new Constitution that dissolved the traditional two-house Congress into one and made provisions to allow two consecutive
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Caracas terms for the president. Venezuela’s government has survived numerous coup attempts, including the 1992 golpe de estado led by now-President Hugo Chávez. Chávez is the first president of late who is not of one of the traditional Venezuelan parties: Acción Democrática and the Social Christian COPEI. During the coup attempt in 1992, more than 20 lives were lost in Caracas. The federal district of Caracas is the center of all government and houses the executive, judicial, and legislative branches of government. It is ruled as a federal district. 8
Public Safety
Caracas is an increasingly dangerous city, largely because of the incredible growth of its poor neighborhoods and the many citizens who live below the poverty level. The unstable economy and political situation are blamed for the growing disparity between rich and poor. Though most violent crimes occur in the poor neighborhoods, they have also spread to the wealthier areas. The historic quarter is dangerous after dark, and visitors and citizens alike are advised not to carry expensive jewelry, watches, or cameras. Armed robberies do occur. People who drive cars are continually advised to lock their car doors as car-jackings are fairly common occurrences. 9
Economy
Venezuela’s economy is almost exclusively based on oil. Discovered in 1914, oil turned Venezuela into one of
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Latin America’s richest countries, and it still accounts for more than 20 percent of the country’s gross domestic product (GDP). The big oil boom came during the 1970s, transforming the country virtually overnight. Though the main oil deposits are located in the Maracaibo basin, Caracas has benefited tremendously from the revenue generated from oil; its modern architecture and its status as the center of political, scientific, and cultural Venezuela is due largely to oil revenue. Caracas is the main business center in the country, as well as the center of all business sectors—agriculture, oil, electricity—even though most of the resources come from different parts of the country. The recent transfer of power in the country’s largest oil company has added to the economic uncertainty of the oilproducing nation, and economists are watching the markets, business sector, and political situation in Caracas closely. 10
Environment
Venezuela offers a variety of natural habitats: from the Amazon Rain Forest to the plains of Coro (los llanos), from the idyllic beaches on the islands to the Andes mountains, and from Angel Falls to the cities. Caracas has been blessed with an ideal location in a valley, warm days and cool nights, and proximity to the beaches. The Guiare River flows through the city (though difficult to see through the skyscrapers). Though its lush surroundings, good climate, and palm trees make it beautiful, Caracas suffers from severe environ-
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Caracas
Caracas’s modern architecture and it’s status as the center of political, scientific, and cultural Venezuela is due largely to oil revenue. (Mireille Vautier; Woodfin Camp)
mental problems that are worsening because of rapid urbanization. The city in the valley is surrounded by hillsides that are covered in rachos, makeshift housing and slums where poverty, crime, and desperation prevail. Caraqueños’ reputation for loving their cars is also catching up with them. Traffic and pollution are at all-time highs, and government plans to help quell them have thus far been unsuccessful. Caraqueños and other Venezuelans are feeling the pain of environmental
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degradation more than ever. In December 1999, excessive rains caused devastating flooding across the northern coast of Venezuela. The area around Caracas was devastated, and between 30,000 and 50,000 people perished; the exact figure is still unknown. Many environmental experts are particularly concerned because the rapid deforestation of the mountains around the Caracas valley resulted in the earth being incapable of absorbing the rainwater. Further, much of the makeshift housing that was unregulated by the government simply could not withstand the
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Caracas rains. Looking to the future, the government will likely have to develop more successful measures of protecting the environment of Caracas, as well as its citizens. 11
Shopping
Shoppers will be delighted in Caracas only if they are not expecting the large, inexpensive Indian markets typical of many Latin American cities. The well-known Sabana Grande, a one-mile boulevard where no cars are allowed, extends beyond Plaza Venezuela. It is known for its upscale boutiques, shoe stores, perfume shops, and bookstores. The many outdoor cafes also give Sabana Grande a European feel. This is not a typical Latin American market place with inexpensive handicrafts; it is the typical Caracas-sophisticated and trendy shopping experience. The Artesanía Venezolana store is well known for its excellent selection of local handicrafts. The Central Comercial Ciudad Tamanaco (CCCT) is the continent’s largest shopping mall and has one of Caracas’s best collections of boutiques. This mall also includes bistros and movie theaters. The older shopping mall of Paseo Las Mercedes, located in the wealthy Las Mercedes neighborhood, has a variety of stores and an excellent bookstore. For those desiring the more traditional markets, Caracas is not the best city, but there are still several. The Mercado Coche, near the Nuevo Circo bus terminal is the most centrally located.
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The Mercado Guiacaipuro is more colorful and located on Avenida Andrés Bello. The flea market of Mercado de la Pulgas is open weekends in the parking lot of the Universidad Central de Venezuela’s baseball stadium. Finally, the Mercado Chino is a unique market that attracts Chinese who come to buy and sell Chinese vegetables and other food not available elsewhere. It is located near the metro stop Chacaíto. 12
Education
The Venezuelan educational system improved with the oil boom of the 1970s. Today there is a compulsory (required) six-year primary education, and the literacy rate is 91 percent. This high rate is due to the economic prosperity provided by the oil industry. However, since the more difficult economic situation of the 1980s and 1990s, cuts in education have affected many schools. In Caracas, like other Venezuelan cities, children may go to private primary (compulsory), secondary, and professional schools. Public schools in Caracas tend to be less well kept and supplied than the private, tuition based schools. In order to continue after bachiller, or high school, students must achieve certain scores on collegeentrance exams. Once passing, they may attend any of the public or private institutions across the country. Caracas hosts the country’s largest and oldest university. The Universidad Central de Caracas was founded in 1785 and has approximately 70,000 students. It offers
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Caracas a variety of disciplines, including medicine, law, journalism, and engineering. Another large university located in Caracas is the private Universidad Católica Andrés Bello, named after the famous educator of liberator Simón Bolívar. 13
Health Care
Caracas has the typical private and public health care system of the rest of the country. There are many farmacias (pharmacies) across the city, and in most neighborhoods there is one that is de turno, or open late into the night. Most medicines are available over the counter. There are several private clinics and hospitals available to visitors in Caracas and though sanitary conditions are better than many Latin American countries, they are not what many Westerners are used to in the United States or Europe. It is generally safe to drink the water out of the faucet in Caracas, but it is not recommended to eat at the many outside food stands, and it is recommended to avoid salads and uncooked meats. 14
Media
Caracas has two of the best and largest newspapers in Venezuela. El Universal and El Nacional are both sold countrywide and cover national and international topics, business and economics, culture, and sports. The Daily Journal is an English-language newspaper published in Caracas that also covers national and international affairs and society and culture. Most of the almost 20 radio stations in the city
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cover imported pop and rock music, but several also cover classical and jazz, the best of which is La Emisora Cultural on 97.7 FM. There are three private television stations (Radio Caracas la Televisión, Venevisión, and Televén) and one public station (Venezolana de Televisión) that are run out of Caracas and broadcast countrywide. They all feature the general film, music, sports, and cultural programming. Telenovelas, or soap operas, dominate prime-time programming; Venezuela is famous for its telenovelas, which are popular all over Latin America. 15
Sports
Locally called béisbol, baseball is the sport of choice for Venezuelans, including the Caraqueños. Two of the national teams are from Caracas: the Leones and Tiburones. Visitors to the city from mid-October to January will find it easy to get tickets to see one of the local teams play. Many Caraqueños also enjoy spending a day at the local horse track of La Rinconada. The track was once considered one of the best in Latin America, and though cutbacks have decreased its notoriety, it is a good, large track with stables for 2,000 horses and seats for 48,000 fans. 16
Parks and Recreation
Parque del Este (at Parque del Este metro stop) is the largest city park, and its cactus garden is a good place for walks. One of the city’s two zoos, the Parque Zoológico El Pinar is located in
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Caracas the southwestern part of the city. Also located in the southwestern part of the city, the bigger and better Parque Zoológico de Caricuao is more recommended and has hundreds of animals in their native habitats. East of Parque Central (located in the heart of the city), visitors may find the Parque Los Caobos, named so because of its many mahogany trees. This is where bicyclers, mimes and puppeteers, and families gather throughout the week. The Jardín Botánico is a nice relaxing place to rest amidst tropical trees and flowers, though its proximity to the highway can make it a bit noisy. Finally, the Avila National Park is located on top of Mount Avila on the city’s north side, but it can be difficult to reach. 17
Performing Arts
Caracas has its share of good theaters; most are open Wednesday through Sunday though some only offer performances on weekends. The Ateneo theater is known to have interesting performances and houses Rajatabla, one of the country’s well-known theater groups. Every April, Caracas hosts an International Theater Festival, which is an excellent choice for visitors wishing to see some of Latin America’s best theater. The Complejo Cultural Teresa Carreño hosts many concerts and ballets and attracts foreign performers as well as locals. The Aula Magna in the Universidad Central de Venezuela is a recommended performing arts hall with excellent acoustics. This is where the Symphony Orchestra of Caracas performs (usually on Sundays) and
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where many cultural activities are also performed. For filmgoers, Caracas also has more than 50 cinema theaters, but productions tend to be the imports from the United States. 18
Libraries and Museums
Caracas has the best museums in Venezuela, several of which are well known on the continent. The Galería de Arte Nacional is located opposite Museum de Ciencias Naturales (natural science) and displays 400 works of art from four centuries of Venezuela’s disciplines. The Museo de Bellas Artes is located next to it and features temporary exhibitions. A well-known Venezuelan architect, Carlos Raúl Villanueva, designed both. The Museo Criollo is on the ground floor of the Palacio Municipal (across from Plaza Bolivar in the city center) and houses items related to the city’s history and works of local artist Raúl Santana. The Museo Bolivariano, just south of Plaza Bolívar, is located in a colonial house, and it hosts independence documents, weapons, and several portraits of liberator Bolivar. The Museo Fundación John Boulton is in the same area in Torre El Chorro on the eleventh floor. This museum has a collection of historic objects collected by the Bolivar family, including colonial furniture and Bolivar memorabilia. In the suburb of San Bernardino in the colonial mansion of Quinta de Anauco, visitors will find well-recommended Museo de Arte Colonial, which
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Caracas has a variety of works of art and furniture and offers tours in English. The lovely environment is a restored coffee hacienda and contains slave quarters now dedicated to a library on colonial art and history. In the modern heart of the city, the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo is located in Parque Central. This museum of contemporary art is the best of its kind in the country and also said by many to be the best on the continent. In its 16 halls, famous Venezuelan artists, such as Armando Reverón, Francisco Narváez, Jacobo Borges, and Alejandro Otero, display their works. International artists on display include Chagall, Picasso, Leger, and Miró. The museum also features a collection of approximately 100 engravings by Picasso. Finally, the Museo de los Niños (Children’s Museum) is also located in Parque Central and provides interesting visits for kids and adults alike. 19
To u r i s m
Caracas is no stranger to tourism. As the gateway to the continent, the capital city draws tourists heading to Venezuela’s idyllic beaches, to the forests and waterfalls of Parque Nacional de Canaima, as well as many business travelers. There are several tourist offices available throughout the city. The city offers tourists a variety of good museums, excellent restaurants, and a lively night life. Visitors may begin the tour of the city at Plaza Bolivar, the heart of the city center. The Catedral, Palacio de Gobierno and Palacio Municipal are
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Visitors may start their tour of Caracas in Plaza Bolivar, the heart of the city center. (Gary Braasch; Woodfin Camp)
located on the sides of the plaza. In the city center, one may also find the Capitolio Nacional and the Casa Natal de Bolívar, where the famous liberator Simón Bolívar was born. (See also Libraries and Museums above). 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY New Year’s Day
FEBRUARY-MARCH Carnaval (the Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday)
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Caracas MARCH-APRIL
Government Offices
Semana Santa Maundy Thursday and Good Friday
United States Embassy in Venezuela Avenida Francisco de Miranda, La Floresta Caracas (58 02) 285–2222
APRIL Declaration of Independence Festival Internacional de Teatro (even years)
MAY Labor Day Vélorio de Cruz de Mayo
Tourist and Convention Bureaus
JUNE Battle of Carabobo
JULY Independence Day Bolivar’s birthday
OCTOBER Discovery of America
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Embassy of Venezuela-United States 1099 30th Street, NW Washington, DC 20007 (202) 342–2214
Famous Citizens
Simón Bolívar (1783–1830), Caracas’s most famous citizen, known as “El Libertador,” the liberator of what is today Venezuela, Colombia, Panama, Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia. Francisco Miranda (b. 1750), largely credited for paving the way to the independence movement, the mentor under whom Simón Bolívar began his military career.
Corporación de Turismo (Corporturismo) Torre Oeste, Parque Central Piso 37 Caracas (58 02) 507–8815/507–8829 Fairmont International Plaza Venezuela, Sabana Grande Caracas (58 02) 782–8433/781–7091 South American Explorers Club 126 Indian Creek Road Ithaca, NY 14850 (607) 277–0488 Venezuelan Tourist Association (VTA) PO Box 3010 Sausalito, VA 94966 (415) 332–2720
Publications El Universal (newspaper) El Nacional (newspaper) The Daily Journal (English-language newspaper)
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For Further Study
Websites CIA World Factbook. [Online] Available http:// www.cia.gov/publications/factbook/ country.html (Accessed January 10, 2000.) Library of Congress Country Study-Venezuela. [Online] Available http://www.llcweb2.gov (Accessed January 10, 2000.) Lonely Planet Guides. [Online] Available http:// www.lonelyplanet.com/dest/sam/ven.htm (Accessed January 10, 2000.)
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Dempsey, Mary; and Ann Kelosh. Insight Guides Venezuela. APA Publications, 1995. Fisher, Wenzel, and Willy Haas. Impressions of Venezuela. Caracas, Venezuela: Distribuidora Santiage C.A., 1992. Grayson, Richard. I Survived Caracas Traffic: Stories from the Me Decades. Avisson Press, Inc., 1996. Lombardi, John. Venezuela: the Search for Order, the Dream of Progress. New York, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1982. Marquez, Patricia. The Street is My Home. Stanford University Press, 1999.
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Chicago Chicago, Illinois, United States of America, North America Founded: 1830; Incorporated: 1837 Location: Northeast Illinois, Lake Michigan coast, United States, North America Motto: “I will” in Latin Flag: Two blue stripes representing Lake Michigan and the Chicago River, and four sixpointed red stars representing events in Chicago history, all on a white field. Flower: Violet (state flower) Time Zone: 6 AM Central Standard Time (CST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: White 56.9%; Black 39.1% Elevation: 181 m (595 ft) Latitude and Longitude: 41º88'N, 87º65'W Coastline: 40 km (25 mi) Climate: Continental climate; cold winters, with heavy snowfall from cold fronts off Lake Michigan, and hot summers Annual Mean Temperature: 9.5ºC (49.2ºF); January -4.3ºC (24.3ºF); July 23.7ºC (74.7ºF) Seasonal Average Snowfall: 102 cm (40 in) Average Annual Precipitation (total of rainfall and melted snow): 86 cm (34 in). Government: Mayor-council Weights and Measures: Standard U.S. Monetary Units: Standard U.S. Telephone Area Codes: 312, 630, 708, 773, 847 Postal Codes: 60601-64
1
Introduction
Long the United States’s secondlargest city (now its third-largest), Chicago is the only Midwestern metropolis to rank with the great cities of the nation’s east and west coasts. Its nickname, “the Windy City,” though thought by many to refer to a climate influenced by the city’s location on the southwest shore of Lake Michigan, actually has its origin in the civic pride that has inspired its citizens to boastfulness for generations. The “City of Big Shoulders” and “Hog Butcher to the World”—in the words of poet Carl
Sandburg, one of its most famous sons—Chicago has undergone important changes in the latter half of the twentieth century, most notably its population shrinkage in the face of growing suburbanization. Nevertheless, the legendary city of skyscrapers— still home to the world’s tallest building—remains a vital commercial, intellectual, and cultural center. 2
Getting There
Chicago, the seat of Cook County, is located in northeastern Illinois, on the southeastern shore of Lake Michi-
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Chicago gan and at the junction of the lake and the Chicago River.
Chicago Population Profile
Highways Chicago is accessible by several interstate highways. The city is approached from the northwest by I-94, which merges with the John F. Kennedy Expressway and the Dan Ryan Expressway, traversing the city north-south before turning into the Calumet Expressway heading south out of (or into) the city. To the west, I-294 rings much of the Greater Chicago area, turning into the Tri-State Tollway further south and intersecting I-290, which runs east-west, becoming the Dwight D. Eisenhower Expressway into the heart of the city. I-55 leads to Chicago from the southwest, turning into the Adlai E. Stevenson Expressway.
City Proper Population: 2,732,000 Area: 591 sq km (228 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 56.9% white, 39.1% black, 3.7% Asian/Pacific Islander Nicknames: The Windy City, The Second City, The City of Broad Shoulders
Metropolitan Area Population: 6,945,000 Area: 13,118 sq km (5,065 sq mi) World population rank1: 29 Percentage of national population2: 2.5% Average yearly growth rate: 0.3% Ethnic composition: 76% white; 19.5% black; and 4.3% Asian/Pacific Islander ——— 1. The Chicago metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the total US population living in the Chicago metropolitan area.
Bus and Railroad Service Chicago is an Amtrak hub, servicing travelers from the renovated Union Station. The Greyhound station, on West Harrison Street, is slightly to the southwest of downtown. Airports More than 66 million passengers a year arrive at and depart from O’Hare International Airport, on more than 880,000 flights annually. Located 27 kilometers (17 miles) outside downtown Chicago, O’Hare is said to be the busiest airport in the world. As a hub for both American and United Airlines, it offers nonstop service to most major destinations in the United States, and
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many foreign cities as well. Also servicing the Windy City is Midway Airport. Shipping Its central location and Great Lakes coastline have always made Chicago an important shipping center, especially since the 1959 opening of the St. Lawrence Seaway connecting the Great Lakes to the Atlantic Ocean. Some 750 motor freight carriers ship over 45 million metric tons (50 million tons) of ground freight to and from the city every year; another 36 million metric tons (40 million tons) are handled by rail. More than one million metric tons
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Chicago
(1.1 million tons) per year are shipped through Chicago’s airports. 3
Getting Around
Downtown Chicago is laid out in a grid pattern, with State Street (north-
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south) and Madison (east-west) as the main points of reference. Lake Shore Drive borders the Lake Michigan shoreline, and Grant Park extends along much of the coast. The Chicago River, running east-west, divides the North Side from the central Loop section, and
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Chicago the north and south branches of the river run northwest to south, further demarcating parts of the city. Bus and Commuter Rail Service The Chicago Transit Authority (CTA) runs the city’s bus and rail service, offering access to both Chicago and its suburbs. The CTA operates over 1,000 rapid transit, or El, cars over five rail lines whose routes are designated by different colors. The CTA also operates numerous bus routes, with most buses running at intervals of every five to 20 minutes daily and many running at night. Sightseeing Several walking tours of downtown Chicago landmarks are available, including a taped, self-guided tour put together by the Chicago Office of Tourism. The Friends of the Chicago River offers walking tours along the river and boat cruises along the shoreline as well. Sightseeing tours of the downtown area are also offered on both regular and double-decker buses and open-air trolleys. In addition, a variety of tours and cruises on Lake Michigan are available. 4
People
Chicago is the third most populous city in the United States, surpassed only by New York and Los Angeles. In 1990, the population of Chicago was 2,784,000, with the following racial composition: 56.9 percent white, 39.1 percent black, 3.7 percent Asian/Pacific Islander, 0.3 percent American Indian.
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Hispanics (an ethnic rather than a racial designation) accounted for 19.6 percent of the population. The 1994 population estimate for Chicago was 2,732,000. The population of Chicago’s Primary Metropolitan Statistical Area was estimated at 7,773,896 as of 1997. The region’s racial composition was listed by the U.S. Census Bureau in 1996 as 76 percent white; 19.5 percent black; and 4.3 percent Asian/Pacific Islander. 5
Neighborhoods
The heart of Chicago is the rectangular downtown section known as the Loop, extending southward from the Chicago River and east from its south branch, and encircled by the elevated train route with the same name. Although most of the retailers have departed from legendary State Street, the Loop is still a bustling commercial center filled with corporate and government offices. Its La Salle Street has been called “the Wall Street of the Midwest.” The South Side, the area south of the Loop, has seen considerable redevelopment. Today it is home to a number of communities, including Hyde Park, Morgan Park, and Beverly. The area to the west of the Loop has traditionally been an industrial district, although many of its businesses have relocated in recent times. It is also home to an Italian community and the site of the historic Hull House, where Nobel Prize winner Jane Addams ministered to the needs of the city’s workingclass poor at the turn of the century. The West Side Medical Center, with
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Chicago
City Fact Comparison Chicago (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
6,945,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1830
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$130
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$44
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$26
$14
$15
$16
$176
$173
$246
$207
5
13
20
11
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
Total daily costs (hotel, meals, incidentals) Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
Akhbar El Yom/ Chicago Tribune Al Akhbar 673,508
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1847
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
seven hospitals and two medical schools, is the largest medical complex in the world.
North Michigan Avenue, also known as the Magnificent Mile, home to pricey retailers, hotels, and restaurants.
Chicago’s North Side, to the north and northwest of the Chicago River, is a mostly residential area. The part nearest to the Loop has undergone a renaissance since the 1980s, as artists and other city trendsetters set up lofts in a former industrial and warehouse district that has drawn comparisons to New York’s SoHo neighborhood. Today known as River North, it has become an increasingly upscale locale of galleries, studios, and clubs. Another successfully redeveloped area north of the Loop is
A less heartening part of Chicago’s North Side is the Cabrini-Green public housing project to the northwest of the River North district. Further to the north of the city, beginning with the Mid-North Side to the west of shorefront Lincoln Park, are upscale residential neighborhoods, including Edgebrook and Sauganash. To the southeast is an industrial area traversed by the Chicago skyway. To the southwest are Bridgeport and Chinatown.
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Chicago Chicago is the center of an eightcounty metropolitan area extending about 65 kilometers (40 or so miles) from the city, to the north, west, and south. Its suburbs include such wealthy communities as Oak Park, Evanston, Skokie, and Lake Forest. Some nearby towns in Indiana, including Gary and Hammond, have also become de facto suburbs of Chicago. 6
History
The first Europeans to arrive at the site of present-day Chicago were French explorer Louis Joliet and Father Jacques Marquette in 1673. Over a century later, in 1783, Jean Baptiste Point du Sable became the first permanent resident of European descent in the area when he established a fur-trading post there. Early in its history, the settlement endured the massacre of 53 Americans when 500 Potawatomi warriors stormed Fort Dearborn, which had been built to protect the settlers, during the War of 1812. (The fort was rebuilt by 1816.) The first major spur to the growth of the town was the building of the Illinois & Michigan Canal linking the Great Lakes with the Mississippi River basin. Planned in 1830, the canal wasn’t completed until 1848, although a speculative land boom was already underway in the 1830s, and the population surged upward. The city was incorporated and held its first mayoral election in 1837. By 1848, when the canal was completed, the first railroad arrived in the city, and Chicago became the rail hub
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of the growing nation and a marketing center for farm produce and livestock, as well as the center of the meatpacking industry and home to the country’s first financial exchange, the Chicago Board of Trade. By mid-century, the arrival of Irish, German, and Scandinavian immigrants was providing a labor force to spur the growth in industry, and the Irish established one of the city’s first ethnic communities in Bridgeport. The city’s population grew from 4,470 in 1840 to 28,000 in 1850, and then to 110,000 by the following decade. By 1890 it passed the one-million mark to become the nation’s second-largest metropolis after New York. In 1860 Chicago hosted the Republican Convention that nominated Abraham Lincoln for the presidency, and the city played a vital role in the Civil War by serving as the primary supplier of beef to the Union soldiers. In the postwar era, Chicago became the country’s major lumber market as well as its grain-handling capital, as well as a manufacturing center for farm machinery. While the city’s upper classes enjoyed unprecedented wealth, its thousands of working-class residents suffered the overcrowded and unsanitary conditions common to the urban poor of the industrial age. Jane Addams’s Hull House became famous for its efforts to improve conditions for immigrant tenement dwellers on the city’s West Side. Eventually sanitary conditions became so lethal that the course of the Chicago River was reversed at the turn of the century to keep its sewageand industrial waste-laden waters from
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Chicago further polluting Lake Michigan and to end recurring outbreaks of waterborne infectious diseases. Although the Great Fire of October 8, 1871, devastated the city, killing between 250 and 300 people and destroying more than 17,000 buildings, Chicago’s economic base—its stockyards, freight yards, and industrial area—were spared, enabling the city to rebuild rapidly. Much of the city was restored within a year, and Chicago continued to grow. In 1893, in the face of a nationwide economic depression, the city hosted the World’s Columbian Exposition, which attracted some 21 million visitors. The 1890s was also the decade when Chicago became famous as the home of a new form of architecture that was to transform America’s urban landscape—the skyscraper. During this period, the city’s wealth also financed the creation of major cultural institutions such as the Chicago Symphony Orchestra and the Art Institute. By the late nineteenth century, Chicago was already notorious for its political corruption, and reform efforts were implemented by the 1890s. However, the city reputation as the vice capital of the nation was renewed with the rise of mobsters Al Capone, John Dillinger, and their cohorts in the 1920s and 1930s. Chicagoans suffered keenly from the Great Depression but, like other areas of the country, recovered during World War II (1939–1945), becoming one of the nation’s top centers for defense-related production, as well as the site of its first controlled nuclear reaction, overseen by Enrico
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Fermi at the University of Chicago in 1942. A major development of the postwar era has been the suburbanization of the city, whose population, which accounted for roughly two-thirds of the metropolitan area in 1950, shrank to only one-third by 1990, and Los Angeles replaced Chicago as the nation’s second most populous city. Chicago’s racial balance has also changed during this period, with blacks becoming the major ethnic group in an increasingly segregated city, and suburban sprawl has replaced formerly populated areas in the heart of the city with teeming expressways. The first postwar decades were the Daley era (1955–1976), when Mayor Richard J. Daley oversaw a period of robust expansion and modernization that included the construction of O’Hare International Airport and the world’s tallest building, the Sears Tower. However, it was also during the Daley years that the disturbances at the 1968 Democratic convention etched themselves indelibly on the consciousness of the nation. Since then Chicago has had a woman mayor (Jane Byrne, 1979– 1983) and its first black mayor (Harold Washington, 1983–1987), as well as its first female black senator (Carol Moseley-Braun, 1992–). The Daley name regained its prominence in city politics in the 1990s with the election of Richard M. Daley to the post of mayor.
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Chicago 7
Government
Chicago’s municipal government operates under a 1971 charter, providing for a mayor-council form of government. The city’s mayor and the 50 alderman who make up the council are all elected for four-year terms. 8
Public Safety
The Chicago Police Department is the second-largest municipal police force in the United States. In 1997 the department employed 13,466 sworn officers, 2,060 civilian employees, as well as 1,000 crossing guards. In 1995, violent crimes reported to police (per 100,000 population) included 30 murders, 1,094 robberies, and 1,426 aggravated assaults. Property crimes totaled 7,198 and included 1,463 burglaries, 4,418 cases of larceny/theft, and 1,316 motor vehicle thefts. 9
Economy
Chicago has long been one of the country’s major manufacturing and distribution centers. Important manufacturing industries include steel, telecommunications equipment, automobile accessories, agricultural equipment, scientific instruments, diesel engines, consumer electronics, paint, and food products. The city’s central location, inland port, and rail accessibility made it a major market for Midwest farmers by the nineteenth century, and it remains a significant transport center today. Retailing is another dominant sector in the economy of Chicago, which is home to thousands of whole-
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salers and retailers, including such retail giants as Sears, Marshall Field, and Montgomery Ward. Home to the Midwest Stock Exchange, the Chicago Board of Trade (the nation’s oldest financial exchange), and the Chicago Mercantile Exchange, Chicago is one of the top financial centers in the United States. Its LaSalle Street is considered the Wall Street of the Midwest. The city is also a publishing powerhouse, ranked second only to New York, and a leader in industrial research and biotechnology. Chicago’s largest employers include Jewel Food Stores, Motorola, Advocate Health Care, Ameritech, and First Chicago Corporation. 10
Environment
Two bodies of water have been central to the history and development of the city of Chicago—the Chicago River and Lake Michigan, the third largest of the Great Lakes and the only one completely within the United States. The southwestern shore borders an urban area that includes not only Chicago, but also Milwaukee, Wisconsin, and Gary, Indiana. The concentration of industrialization has led to growing pollution problems. The Chicago River formerly flowed into Lake Michigan, but its course was reversed, because of pollution, in 1900. In the waning years of the twentieth century, significant efforts were made to clean up the river, which had suffered from the effects of unhampered industrialization since the nineteenth
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Chicago century. The Chicago River became a repository of refuse from the slaughterhouse industry and other forms of industrial pollution. By 1999, over 50 species of fish—including salmon, carp, and perch—returned to the river’s waters, and the Friends of the Chicago River began to lead walking tours along the riverfront. Encircling the city along its northern, western and southern boundaries, the Cook County Forest Preserves cover 66,746 acres, providing woodlands, open spaces, and recreational facilities. About five percent of the preserves belong to the Illinois Nature Preserve system, which protects the natural habitats of endangered species and other animals. 11
Shopping
Although many of the major retailers have left Chicago’s central Loop district, the city still offers abundant and varied shopping outlets. Today its premier shopping area is the “Magnificent Mile” on North Michigan Avenue, stretching north of the Chicago River to Oak Street. Its multi-story shopping complexes boast such top-notch department stores as Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman-Marcus, Lord & Taylor, and Marshall Field’s, as well as upscale retailers including Louis Vuitton, Tiffany, Cartier, Brooks Brothers, and Gucci. Further north is the ArmitageHalsted-Webster shopping area. In contrast to the exclusive shops found in these shopping districts, Chicago is also the home of the world’s largest whole-
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Chicago’s shopping districts range from exclusive fashion boutiques to stores such as Merchandise Mart, the world’s largest wholesale store. (Peter J. Schulz; City of Chicago)
sale store, Merchandise Mart on North Orleans Street. The waterfront North Pier Mall offers a shopping complex in a renovated warehouse. Another interesting shopping district is the Andersonville area on the North Side, whose specialty stores include a feminist bookstore (Women and Children First), an apothecary shop stocked with fragrances and other personal-care products, a store featuring American-made crafts, a Swedish bakery, and a canine deli bakery (Fido’s Food Fair).
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Chicago 12
Education
As of 1995, 84 percent of Chicago metropolitan area residents had completed high school; 31 percent of males and 26 percent of females had completed a bachelor’s degree. The Chicago Public Schools District, the state’s largest, operated 567 schools in the fall of 1996 when it enrolled 408,201 students. Close to 90 percent were minority students, mostly black (54 percent) and Hispanic (32 percent). The system employed 23,433 teachers, with a pupil/teacher ratio of 20 to one; support staff totaled 27,827. The school district has won national attention for its Stephen Decatur Classical School, an elementary school for gifted students, and also operates the Chicago High School for Agricultural Sciences, which is located on a farm within the city boundaries. Chicago also has over 200 parochial schools and more than 100 secular private schools. The University of Chicago, founded in 1891 and endowed by John D. Rockefeller, has a national reputation for excellence, in both the sciences and the humanities. Its research facilities include the Enrico Fermi Institute and the Argonne National Laboratory. The University of Illinois at Chicago offers bachelor’s, master’s, doctoral, and professional degrees to some 25,000 students. Chicago is also home to three Catholic universities: DePaul, Loyola, and Saint Xavier. The city has a variety of other institutions of higher learning, including Chicago City-Wide Colleges, Roosevelt University, the Illinois Insti-
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tute of Technology, the Scholl College of Podiatric Medicine, Vandercook College of Music, and the prestigious Art Institute of Chicago. 13
Health Care
Chicago—the site of prime-time television’s most famous medical drama of the 1990s, ER—is also a top healthcare center in real life. The city has a total of more than 60 hospitals. Its University of Chicago Hospitals are renowned both for their treatment and research facilities. Among these facilities are Wyler Children’s Hospital, Chicago Lying-in Hospital, and Bernard Mitchell Hospital. In 1998 the hospital system logged 23,470 admissions and 428,396 outpatient visits and employed 1,593 people. Rush-Presbyterian-St. Luke’s Medical Center is affiliated with Rush Medical College and Rush School Nursing. The Chicago area’s major public health facility is Cook County Hospital. Other hospitals include Chicago Memorial Hospital, Edgewater Hospital, Grant Hospital, Holy Cross Hospital, John F. Kennedy Medical Center, Roseland Community Hospital, South Chicago Community hospital, and Weiss Memorial Hospital. 14
Media
Chicago has two major daily newspapers, both published in the morning—the Chicago Tribune (daily circulation 584,097, Sundays 1,019,458) and the Chicago Sun-Times (daily circulation 332,047, Sundays 411,334). The Chicago Daily Defender is
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Chicago a well-known daily newspaper serving the black community, and there are many more newspapers published for the city’s various racial and ethnic populations. Crain’s Chicago Business is produced by the Crain media chain; The Reader is an alternative weekly that circulates primarily on the North Side, and Streetwise is published for the benefit of Chicago’s homeless. Chicago Monthly magazine contains feature articles and dining and entertainment information, and the bimonthly Chicago Life also covers the metropolitan area. In addition to local publications, Chicago—as one of the country’s major publishing centers—is the source of hundreds of nationally distributed newspapers and magazines, including Ebony, American Libraries, and Jet, as well as a number of scholarly journals published at the University of Chicago. All the major television networks have affiliated stations in Chicago, which has a total of about 20 commercial, public television, and cable stations, as well as some 60 AM and FM radio stations. A major regional broadcast center, Chicago is also home to the Oprah Winfrey show and to Winfrey’s production company, Harpo Productions. 15
Sports
Chicago’s long history as an avid sports town had its nadir in baseball’s infamous “Black Sox” scandal of 1919, when members of the White Sox baseball team were bribed to lose the World
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Series championship, and its crowning glory in the 1990s, when superstar Michael Jordan led the Chicago Bulls to six National Basketball Association (NBA) championships in eight years under the stewardship of coach Phil Jackson. Chicago is also home to two major-league baseball teams—the National League’s Chicago Cubs, who play at Wrigley Field, and the American League’s White Sox, whose home games take place at Comiskey Park. The Chicago Bears of the National Football League (NFL) play at Soldier Field, and Chicago is also home to the Chicago Black Hawks of the National Hockey League (NHL). Horse racing takes place at Arlington International Racecourse, Balmoral Park Racetrack, Hawthorne Downs Racetrack, Maywood Park Racetrack, and other venues, and auto racing can be seen at the Santa Fe Speedway. 16
Parks and Recreation
Chicago has 2,954 hectares (7,300 acres) of parkland. Its largest and bestknown park is Grant Park, extending along Lake Michigan at the city’s eastern edge, and encompassing within its boundaries Soldier Field, the Art Institute of Chicago, and the Field Museum of Natural History. The second-largest park is the 242-hectare (598-acre) lakefront Burnham Park. Of Chicago’s inland parks, the largest is Washington Park. Lincoln Park, on the North Side, extends from Lake Michigan to Clark Street.
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Chicago
Comiskey Park is the home of the Chicago White Sox of the American League. (Javet M. Kimble; City of Chicago)
In addition to parks located within city limits, Chicagoans also enjoy the Cook County Forest Preserves that ring the city, offering open space, as well as 13 golf courses and driving ranges, swimming pools, bicycle paths, picnic areas, and over 30 fishing lakes and ponds. The Shedd Aquarium’s 170,000square-foot Oceanarium is the world’s largest indoor marine mammal exhibit. One of the last free zoos in the United States, the privately managed Lincoln Park Zoo houses over 1,000 animals and receives support from the Chicago Park District.
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Chicago has over 24 kilometers (15 miles) of swimming beaches and 29 kilometers (18 miles) of lakefront bicycle paths. Other popular participant sports include canoeing, fishing, golf, tennis, cross-country skiing, ice skating, and toboganning. 17
Performing Arts
Chicago is renowned for its theater tradition. Stage performances draw around three million attendees annually. Among the two best-known theatrical organizations in the city are the Goodman Theater, its oldest resident troupe; Steppenwolf Theater Company,
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Chicago associated with playwright David Mamet; and the famed improvisational group Second City, training ground for many talented comic performers who have since gone on to achieve nationwide success in film and television. Other theater groups include the Court Theatre, the Pegasus Players, Victory Gardens, and Wisdom Bridge. Touring performances of Broadway productions can be seen at the Schubert Theatre. The Chicago Symphony, one of the best in the nation, performs from fall through spring at Orchestra Hall on Michigan Avenue and at the Ravinia Festival on the North Shore in the summer months. Chicago has two opera companies, Lyric Opera of Chicago, which performs operas in their original languages with supertitles displayed above the stage, and Chicago Opera Theater, which performs in English. Chicago’s resident ballet troupe is Ballet Chicago, founded in 1988. Hubbard Street Dance Chicago stages contemporary dance performances. Known as “the Blues Capital of the World,” Chicago has been a prime venue for blues clubs and performers since the 1930s, and this tradition is vibrantly renewed every spring at the lakefront Chicago Blues Festival, which draws crowds of as many as 400,000 during its three days. 18
Libraries and Museums
Founded in 1872, the Chicago Public Library serves over two-and-a-half million people, with an annual circula-
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tion of 8,305,158. Its book holdings total nearly six-and-a-half million volumes while its non-book holdings comprise some four-and-a-half million items. The library operates the central Harold Washington Library Center, 77 neighborhood branches, and two regional libraries. Special collections include the Chicago Theater Collection, the Chicago Blues Archives, an early American newspaper collection, and many others. Besides its public library, Chicago is also home to a number of university and government libraries, as well as private libraries run by historical and cultural societies, private corporations, medical facilities, and other groups. The main library of the University of Chicago, serving some 10,000 students and over 1,000 faculty members, maintains a collection of over six million books, more than 20,000 compact disks, and other materials. The university’s libraries house special collections in modern poetry, anatomical illustration, English Bibles, and numerous other areas. The university’s Newberry Library also houses a wellknown research collection. The Art Institute of Chicago is one of the country’s premier art museums. It houses more than 300,000 artworks, cared for by ten curatorial departments. It has one of the world’s great collections of Impressionist art, as well as outstanding collections of twentiethcentury art and Japanese woodblock prints. Its print and drawing collections is also one of the nation’s finest. With a collection of over 16 million items, the Field Museum of Natural History ranks
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Chicago plays folk art from many countries; the Museum of Broadcast Communications; and the Museum of Science and Industry. Among the city’s many museums dedicated to the heritage of specific racial and ethnic groups are the Du Sable Museum of African American History, the Mexican Fine Arts Center Museum, the Spertus Museum of Judaica, the Swedish American Museum Center, and the Ukrainian National Museum.
To u r i s m
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Chicago is a popular tourist destination for both domestic and overseas visitors. In 1995 approximately twoand-a-half million foreign travelers visited the city, ranking it ninth nationally in this category. In August 1999, the city expected to attract $192.7 million in convention business. The Navy Pier hosts “Pier Walk,” the world’s largest outdoor sculpture exhibition starting in the spring and running through the fall annually. (Willy Schmidt; City of Chicago)
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Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Chicago Boat, Sports, and RV Show
FEBRUARY
as one of the world’s great natural history museums. Chicago has over 40 other museums of all kinds, including the Museum of Contemporary Art and the Museum of Contemporary Photography; Chicago Academy of Sciences, featuring lively inter-active exhibits; the hands-on Chicago Children’s Museum; the Chicago Historical Society museum; the International Museum of Surgical Sciences; the May Weber Museum of Cultural Arts, which dis-
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Chicago Auto Show Chinese New Year Parade Navy Pier County Fair Winter Break 3 on 3 Basketball Tournament Azalea and Camellia Show
MARCH Chicago Flower and Garden Show Maple Syrup Festival St. Patrick’s Day Celebration & Fireworks South Side Irish St. Patrick’s Day Parade
APRIL Chicago Latino Festival
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Chicago MAY Wright Plus House Walk Printer’s Row Book Fair
JUNE Chicago Blues Festival Chicago Country Music Festival Chicago Gospel Festival 57th Street Air Fair Boulevard-Lakefront Bicycle Tour Andersonville Midsommarfest
MID-JUNE TO MID-AUGUST Grant Park Music Festival
LATE JUNE-EARLY JULY Taste of Chicago
JULY
Hillary Rodham Clinton (b. 1947), First Lady of the United States. Jesse Jackson (b. 1941), African-American civil rights leader. Walter Elias (Walt) Disney (1901–1966), animator and filmmaker. Jack Benny (1894–1974), comedian. Saul Bellow, Nobel Prize-winning author. John Dos Passos (1896–1970), author.
Fiesta de Hemingway Venetian Night Lakefront fireworks (July 3) Chicago to Mackinac Island Boat Race World’s Largest Block Party Newberry Library Book Fair
Jane Addams (1860–1935), founder of Hull House.
AUGUST
David Mamet (b. 1947), playwright.
Chicago Air & Water Show Latin Music Festival Chicago Triathlon
Benny Goodman (1909–1986), clarinetist.
Michael Jordan (b. 1963), basketball superstar.
LATE AUGUST-SEPTEMBER Chicago Jazz Festival
OCTOBER Berghoff Oktoberfest Chicago International Film Festival LaSalle Banks Chicago Marathon
NOVEMBER Ski Snowmobile & Winter Sports Show Magnificent Mile Lights Festival
DECEMBER Chicago Park District Winter Festival Flower Show
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Famous Citizens
Famous citizens who were born in Chicago include: Mayor Richard J. Daley (1902–1976).
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22
For Further Study
Websites Chicago City Net. [Online] Available http:// www.city.net/countries/united_states/ illinois/chicago. (accessed October 11, 1999). Chicago City Page. [Online] Available http:// www.chicago.thelinks.com (accessed October 11, 1999). Chicago Home Page. [Online] Available http:// www.city-life.com/chicago. (accessed October 11, 1999). City Insights Chicago. [Online] Available http:// www.cityinsights.com/chicago.htm. (accessed October 11, 1999).
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Chicago Government Offices Chicago City Hall 121 N. La Salle St. Chicago, IL 60602 (312) 744-0000 Chicago Office of Tourism 78 E. Washington St. Chicago, IL 60602 (312) 744-2359 Mayor’s Office 121 N. La Salle St. Rm. 507 Chicago, IL 60602 (312) 744-3300
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Chicago Convention and Tourism Bureau 2301 S. Lake Shore Dr. Chicago, IL 60616 (312) 567-8500
Publications Chicago Magazine 500 N. Dearborn Ave. Suite 1200 Chicago, IL 60610 Chicago Sun-Times 401 N. Wabash Ave. Chicago, IL 60611 Chicago Tribune 435 N. Michigan Ave. Chicago, IL 60611 Crain’s Chicago Business 740 N. Rush St. Chicago, IL 60611
Books Abrams, Isabel S. The Nature of Chicago: A Comprehensive Guide to Natural Sites In and Around the City. Chicago: Chicago Review Press, 1997. Addams, Jane. Twenty Years at Hull-House. New York: Macmillan, 1910. Bellow, Saul. Humboldt’s Gift. New York: Viking, 1975. [Fiction]
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Crimi, Carolyn. Kidding Around Chicago: What to Do, Where to Go, and How to Have Fun in Chicago. Santa Fe, N.M.: John Muir Publications, 1998 Dale, Alzina Stone. Mystery Reader's Walking Guide, Chicago. Lincolnwood, Ill.: Passport Books, 1995. Farber, David. Chicago ‘68. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1988. Figliulo, Susan. Romantic Days and Nights in Chicago: Romantic Diversions in and Around the City. 2nd ed. Old Saybrook, Conn.: Globe Pequot Press, 1999. Granger, Bill, and Lori Granger. Fighting Jane: Mayor Jane Byrne and the Chicago Machine. New York: Dial Press, 1980. Hayner, Don, and Tom McNamee. Metro Chicago Almanac. Chicago: Chicago Sun-Times, 1991. Hayner, Don, and Tom McNamee. Streetwise Chicago, A History of Chicago Street Names. Chicago: Loyola University Press, 1988. Liebling, A. J. Chicago: The Second City. Drawings by Steinberg. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1952. Miller, Ross. American Apocolypse: The Great Fire and the Myth of Chicago. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1990. Rowe, Mike. Chicago Blues: The City and the Music. New York: Da Capo Press, 1975. Royko, Mike. Boss: Richard J. Daley and His Era. Chicago: Dutton, 1971. Saliga, Pauline A., ed. The Sky's the Limit: A Century of Chicago Skyscrapers. New York: Rizzoli, 1990. Sandburg, Carl. Chicago Poems. New York: Holt, 1916. Terkel, Studs. Division Street: America. New York: Pantheon, 1967. Uhl, Michael. Frommer's Memorable Walks in Chicago. New York: Macmillan USA, 1998.
Videorecordings Chicago: One Magnificent City. San Ramon, CA: International Video Network, 1991.
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Cleveland Cleveland, Ohio, United States of America, North America Founded: 1796; Incorporated: 1836 Location: Northeastern Ohio on the southern shore of Lake Erie, United States, North America Motto: Progress and Prosperity Flag: Red left panel, white center panel with emblem, and blue right panel. Flower: Carnation Time Zone: 7 AM Eastern Standard Time (EST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: City—49% white; 47% black; 5% Hispanic origin (of any race); 21.7% of Cleveland’s European Americans were of German ancestry; Irish, 12.5%; English, 9.1%; Italian, 7.1%; Polish, 6.1%; Slovak, 4.2%; French, 2.8%; Hungarian, 2.4%; Yugoslav, 1.6%; Scottish/Irish, 1.6%; Russian, 1.2%; Czech, 1.5%; and Dutch, 1.5%. Elevation: 201 meters (660 feet) above sea level. Most of the city is on a level plain 18–24 meters (60–80 feet) above Lake Erie; an abrupt ridge rises 150 meters (500 feet) above the shore on the eastern edge of the city along its border with the community of Cleveland Heights. Latitude and Longitude: 41º30’N, 81º70’W Coastline: 22 kilometers (14 miles) on the southern shore of Lake Erie. Climate: Hot, humid summers and cold, snowy winters. The climate is influenced by Lake Erie, which moderates both summer heat and winter cold. Annual Mean Temperature: 10ºC (50ºF); January –3ºC (27ºF); July 23ºC (73ºF). Seasonal Average Snowfall: 52 inches (132 cm); western suburbs, 45 inches (112 cm); eastern suburbs, 90 inches per year (230 cm). Average Annual Precipitation (rainfall and melted snow): 32 inches (81 cm). Government: Mayor and 21-member City Council Weights and Measures: Standard US Monetary Units: Standard US Telephone Area Codes: 216 in the city; 440 and 330 in suburban areas Postal Codes: 44101–44115; 44117, 44119–44122; 44126–44129; 44134, 44135, 44144
1
Introduction
Once renowned for the 1972 Cuyahoga River fire and identified as part of the “Rust Belt,” Cleveland is no stranger to disaster and hardship. However, in the 1990s the city once called the “Mistake on the Lake” earned a welldeserved new nickname—the “Come-
back City.” As a result of a downtown rehabilitation program, Cleveland entered the twenty-first century as a proud host to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum, the Great Lakes Science Center, the Gateway sports complex, comprised of Jacobs Field, home baseball park for the Cleveland Indians, and Gund Arena, home court for the
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Cleveland
Cleveland Population Profile
ufacturing sector suffered a downturn in the 1980s, The Flats area was redeveloped into an entertainment district with restaurants and nightclubs.
City Proper Population: 505,616 Area: 200 sq km (77 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 49% white; 47% black; 4% other Nicknames: Mistake on the Lake (1960s and 1970s), Comeback City (1980s and 1990s)
Metropolitan Area Population: 2,900,000 Description: Includes Cuyahoga County (where Cleveland is located), neighboring Lorain, Medina, Summit, Portage, Geauga, and Lake Counties; and outlying Ashtabula County Area: 9,360 sq km (3,613 sq mi) World population rank1: 192 Percentage of national population2: 0.6% Average yearly growth rate: 0.4% Ethnic composition: 72% white; 25% black; 3% other ——— 1. The Cleveland metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the total US population living in the Cleveland metropolitan area.
men’s and women’s basketball teams, the Cleveland Cavaliers and Cleveland Rockers, and a new home football stadium for the new Cleveland Browns team. 2
Getting There
Cleveland is located on the southern shore of Lake Erie, one of the five Great Lakes. The Cuyahoga River divides the city into an east side and west side. The area along the Cuyahoga River is known as The Flats. The Flats area was once the site of steel mills and other factories; when Cleveland’s man-
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Highways Three major interstate highways intersect in the downtown area: I-71 and I-77 run north-south connecting Cleveland with the Ohio cities of Columbus and Akron, respectively. I-90 runs east-west, linking Cleveland to Erie, Pennsylvania to the east and Toledo, Ohio, and Chicago, Illinois, to the west. I-480 connects the eastern and western suburbs on a route south of the city; I-271 runs east of the city on a north-south route; and I-490 connects I-90, I-71, and I-77 away from their downtown merges. Bus and Railroad Service Greyhound Bus Lines provides daily service into downtown Cleveland, and to many cities in the Greater Cleveland area. Amtrak passenger rail service to points east and west is provided by the train called the Lakeshore Limited. The Capital Limited train travels to Washington, D.C. via Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Airports The largest airports serving the area are Cleveland Hopkins International Airport (served by 14 air carriers providing 11.5 million passenger arrivals/ departures in 1996), Burke Lakefront Airport (commuter air service provided 219,512 arrivals/departures in 1996), and the Cuyahoga County Airport (pro-
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Cleveland
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Cleveland viding business and general aviation services). Continental Airlines has the largest number of flights with over 300 daily departures. Shipping The Port of Cleveland, declared a foreign trade zone in 1990, is the largest overseas general cargo port on Lake Erie and is the third largest on the Great Lakes. Ships from the Atlantic Ocean enter the Great Lakes via the St. Lawrence Seaway, which opened in 1959. The port handles about 13 million metric tons (14 million tons) of cargo annually. 3
Getting Around
Many of Cleveland’s major roads were laid out along the paths of dried out creek beds or trails used by displaced Native Americans. City streets branch out from Public Square. Cleveland’s tallest buildings surround Public Square. The streets that run west from Public Square all feature large bridges over the Cuyahoga River. There are 13 bridges in The Flats area, directly to the west of Public Square. West of the Cuyahoga River lies the neighborhood known as Ohio City, incorporated into the city of Cleveland in 1852.
downtown area. In 1988, Cleveland became the first city in the United States to have commuter rail service from downtown to the airport when RTA connected Public Square to Hopkins Airport. There is a loop bus route (fare is 50 cents) serving the downtown area from 6 AM to 6:30 PM. In 1996, commuter rail service was extended to the newly developed waterfront area. The RTA operates 102 bus lines, 72 of which reach downtown. Sightseeing The Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Railroad operates a 90-minute round trip through the Cuyahoga National Recreation Area to the south of the city of Cleveland. Sightseeing cruises on the Cuyahoga River and Lake Erie are operated during the summer months, and dozens of marinas serve pleasure boaters of the area. A fleet of trolley cars known as Lolly the Trolley provide sightseeing tours. 4
People
Bus and Commuter Rail Service
In 1990, the population of the city of Cleveland was 505,616 (47 percent male, 53 percent female). The total population of the Cleveland Metropolitan Statistical Area is 2.9 million, making it the fourteenth-largest metropolitan area in the United States.
Within the area, Cleveland’s Regional Transit Authority (RTA) serves 59 million passengers annually. Its rail line consists of 54 kilometers (34 miles) of track connecting the closest suburbs with Public Square in the center of the
Cleveland has a rich ethnic mix, with a population representing 60 ethnic groups from all continents. The city has the largest mix of Eastern Europeans of any city in the United States and has the largest concentrations of Slo-
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Cleveland
The Cleveland, Ohio skyline. (EPD Photos)
vaks (Slovakia), Slovenes (Slovenia), and Hungarians (Hungary). There are also large German, Irish, Polish, Italian, Czech, Croat, Russian, Puerto Rican, and Ukrainian communities. In recent years, Asians have also settled in the area, primarily Asian Indians, Filipinos, Koreans, and Chinese. More than 60 languages are spoken in Cleveland. In 1994, languages other than English spoken at home (by percentage of households) included Spanish or Spanish Creole (24.1 percent), German (11.7 percent), Italian (9.8 percent), Polish (7.9 percent), South Slavic (7.8 percent), other Slavic (seven percent), French or French Creole (6.4 percent), Hungarian (6.1 percent), Arabic
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(3.4 percent), Greek (2.7 percent), Chinese (2.3 percent), Indic (2.3 percent), Korean (1.2 percent), and Japanese (one percent). An estimated 40 percent of the metropolitan area’s regular worshippers attend Catholic churches. The following denominations have significant membership among Clevelanders: Catholic (Roman and Eastern Orthodox), 534,785 members; Southern Baptist, 117,282; American Baptist, 28,176; United Methodist, 33,607; United Church of Christ, 21,146; and Jewish, 50,500. There are also significant numbers of other Protestant denominations, Muslims, Buddhists, and Hindus.
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Cleveland 5
Neighborhoods
Little Italy, located on the city’s eastern border with Cleveland Heights, is a thriving Italian neighborhood that in recent years has become an arts center. On the near east side, just to the north of midtown, is a small Chinatown. On the northeast side is the Slavic Village, and to the east is Hough, a largely African American neighborhood that was the site of violent riots during the Civil Rights movements of the 1960s and 1970s. The Van Sweringen brothers, real estate developers, purchased from a community of Shakers (the devout religious sect) a large tract of land about 16 kilometers (ten miles) east of Public Square. This land became the community of Shaker Heights, the first planned suburban community in the nation. To lure Cleveland’s new and growing middle and upper classes into their community, the Van Sweringens bought a rail line and converted it to a commuter rail connecting their land with a downtown station they built. In 1996, the city received grants and loans of $22.6 million from the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development to help build 400 new homes and renovate 65 homes in the Central neighborhood, a residential, industrial sector just east of the downtown. In 1994, the cost of housing in Cleveland was the second lowest among large cities in the country. In the greater Cleveland area, the average price for a single family home in 1994 was $104,400, compared to $161,600
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nationally. Among the 18 largest U.S. metropolitan areas, Cleveland residents also had the lowest average mortgage payments. In 1989, the Northeast Ohio Coalition for the Homeless was established to provide housing for the estimated 12,000 homeless people in the greater Cleveland area. 6
History
In 1682, King Charles II of England ceded a large tract of land west of Pennsylvania to the colony of Connecticut that became known as the Western Reserve. In 1796, Moses Cleaveland, an executive with the Connecticut Land Company, was sent to survey the reserve with the possibility of developing it. Cleaveland arrived at the mouth of the Cuyahoga River, where it empties into Lake Erie, and recognized that it would make an excellent site for a port. He laid out a plan for a small village, named the town after himself and returned to Connecticut, never again to set foot in the city that bore his name. (The “a” was dropped from the city name somewhere along the way. Popular stories hold that a newspaper writer either ran out of space or “a”s, thereby changing the name of the city permanently.) The area turned out to be inhospitable, mainly because the Cuyahoga River was a nesting ground for mosquitoes and frequently flooded. By 1800, only seven people lived in the town Cleaveland had laid out. In 1803, Ohio became a state, the first state that never
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Cleveland
City Fact Comparison Cleveland (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
1,724,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1796
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$86
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$40
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$24
$14
$15
$16
$128
$173
$246
$207
1
13
20
11
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
Total daily costs (hotel, meals, incidentals) Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
Akhbar El Yom/ The Plain Dealer Al Akhbar 382,933
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1842
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
had been a colony. Growth was slow until the digging of the first stages of the Erie Canal in 1827, which opened the tiny frontier town to commerce. By 1850, the city had grown to 30 times its 1820 population. By 1860, it had become a well-established haven for new immigrants, and half its population that year was foreign born. During and following the Civil War (1861–65), Cleveland became a prosperous industrial city due to the discovery of large iron ore deposits and the establishment of the Standard Oil Company by John D. Rockefeller (1839–1937), soon to become the richest man in the world. Steel, shipping, and coal companies
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also flourished and created a class of rich merchants who built up the city with their wealth. The Great Depression of the 1930s devastated the Cleveland economy, but World War II (1939–45) revived industry, and Cleveland companies recruited new workers to fill its expanded industrial capacity from among southern blacks and white Appalachians. The middle class, however, began moving out of the city into suburbs, as was the pattern nationally, and the inner city of Cleveland began to decline. By the 1960s, much of the city had sunk into poverty, and in 1966 the primarily
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Cleveland
Cleveland’s “Rapid” links the downtown area with the airport, the eastside suburbs, and the westside suburbs. (EPD Photos)
black neighborhood of Hough erupted in riots that made national headlines. Three years later, the Cuyahoga River, saturated with a century of industrial pollutants, caught on fire. The image of a burning river, broadcast around the world, became an image that the city of Cleveland would find difficult to shake. Its reputation was further tarnished during the 1970s when it suffered a devastating fiscal crisis causing it to declare bankruptcy in 1976.
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Beginning in the 1979, with the election of George Voinovich as mayor, Cleveland’s business and civic leaders began revitalizing the downtown area, hoping to reverse the now decades-long population flight. In 1985 Standard Oil of Ohio built a new corporate headquarters building on Public Square. (The building is now known as the BP Building, after British Petroleum, the company that bought Standard Oil.). Other new buildings soon followed and The Flats area along the Cuyahoga River—the site of the river fire—was redeveloped as a district of restaurants and bars. When Michael R. White was elected mayor in 1989, the downtown rehabilitation continued. Notable is the construction of a downtown sports complex called Gateway, comprised of Jacobs Field, a baseball park for the Cleveland Indians, and Gund Arena, home court for the men’s women’s basketball teams, the Cleveland Cavaliers and Cleveland Rockers. Development along the lakeshore included the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum designed by I. M. Pei (1917–), the Great Lakes Science Center, and a new home football stadium for the new Cleveland Browns team in 1999. 7
Government
The city’s chief executive is the mayor, elected to four-year terms on a non-partisan ballot. Michael R. White (Democrat) was elected mayor in 1989, reelected in 1993 and again in 1997. The legislature is a City Council; its 21 members are also elected on a non-partisan ballot to four-year terms. (Until
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Cleveland 1980, the mayoral and council terms were two years.) 8
Public Safety
In 1996, Cleveland had six police districts with 1,791 sworn officers; 26 fire stations with 957 uniformed fire fighters; and 18 Emergency Medical Services (EMS) ambulances with 224 uniformed employees. In 1994, there were 137 homicides; 751 rapes; 3,924 robberies; 2,947 aggravated assaults; 8,008 burglaries; 12,931 larcenies; 9,062 auto thefts; and 801 cases of arson. 9
Economy
Historically, Cleveland was a major industrial and manufacturing center. During the late 1970s and early 1980s, however, the local economy suffered, leaving Cleveland and many other midwestern cities, in an economic recession. During the 1980s, Cleveland lost 11.9 percent of its population when workers moved to take new jobs in the south and west. (During this period industrialized cities of the Midwest and Northeast were labeled the Rust Belt, and their counterparts in the South and Southwest, the Sun Belt.) Beginning in the late 1980s and continuing into the 1990s, however, Cleveland made the transition from an industrial economy to a services-based economy. In 1995, in fact, 28.8 percent of the workforce in the Cleveland metropolitan area was engaged in services, compared to 20.6 percent in manufacturing. Wholesale and retail trade employed 23.6 percent
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that year and 12.8 percent worked for local, state, and federal government. In 1995, Cleveland was home to 95 companies with revenues exceeding $100 million. Among the largest employers in the area (1994) were the U.S. government (18,500); Ford Motor Company (10,896 employees); Catholic Diocese of Cleveland (10,000); Cleveland Clinic Foundation (9,900); Cleveland Board of Education (9,673); Cuyahoga County Government (9,232); MetroHealth System (8,328); City of Cleveland (8,226); University Hospitals (7,640); State of Ohio (7,630); LTV Steel Company (7,500); Riser Foods (6,500); First National Supermarkets (6,451); Centerior Energy (6,200); Goodyear Tire and Rubber (5,937); and Ameritech (5,309). 10
Environment
Cleveland’s most vital natural resource is Lake Erie, the fourth-largest lake in the United States and the twelfth-largest lake in the world. It is 388 kilometers (241 miles) wide and contains 500 trillion liters (132 trillion gallons) of water. The cities that grew up around Lake Erie—Cleveland, Ohio; Detroit, Michigan; and Buffalo, New York—all spewed pollutants into Lake Erie from the early 1900s. In the late 1800s, vast deposits of salt were discovered beneath the lake, and the commercial enterprises continue to extract salt from mines about two-and-a-half kilometers (one-and-a-half miles) beneath the surface of Lake Erie. In 1970, pollution was so heavy that the governor of
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Cleveland Ohio suspended fishing on Lake Erie because of mercury contamination of fish. Since then, environmental laws and downturn in industrial activity along the river have resulted in improved health of the river and Lake Erie ecosystems. In the 1990s, fishing was a favorite pastime. Fishers on Lake Erie catch as many fish as fishers on the other four Great Lakes combined. The Cuyahoga River was one of the most polluted rivers in the country and actually burned in 1952, when a huge fire caused $1.5 million in damage, and again in 1969. The Cuyahoga River fire of June 22, 1969, elicited national headlines and created a national image of Cleveland as a polluted industrial wasteland. 11
Shopping
Clevelanders employed in retail and wholesale trade number 261,500. In the 1980s and 1990s, two major malls—Tower City Center and The Galleria at Erieview—opened in the business district, combining to contain approximately 160 popular specialty shops and restaurants. In total, there are over 625 retail outlets in the downtown section of Cleveland. Another downtown indoor shopping area is The Arcade, built in downtown Cleveland in 1890. It was the first indoor shopping mall in the United States. On the near west side of Cleveland, the Ohio City neighborhood is home to beautifully renovated Victorian houses, restaurants, coffee houses, and the historic West Side Market, an enclosed pro-
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duce, meat, and bakery market. It is the largest covered farmer’s market in the United States. Almost every suburban community in the Cleveland area has a shopping strip or indoor mall. 12
Education
In the 1993–94 school year, Cleveland Public Schools enrolled 73,633 students, with a per-pupil expenditure of $6,017. Fifty percent of the system’s students fail to graduate high school, but 51 percent of those who graduate go on to college. Students enrolled in suburban school systems demonstrate higher average graduation rates. Cuyahoga County has 33 public school systems and 22 private schools. Public/private partnerships in education include Project SMART (School of Manufacturing and Automotive Related Technologies), which helps students learn real-world skills for existing industrial jobs. It is administered by the Cleveland Public Schools, Cleveland State University, and the non-profit group Cleveland Education Partners. The 22 universities and colleges (five public, 17 private) in greater Cleveland include Cleveland State University, Case Western Reserve University, John Carroll University, and Oberlin College. Enrollment at colleges and universities in the metropolitan area is 143,000. 13
Health Care
Cleveland is home to some of the finest medical facilities in the country,
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Cleveland including the Cleveland Clinic (which pioneered open heart surgery and organ transplants), University Hospitals (affiliated with Case Western Reserve University), St. Vincent Charity Hospital (pioneered development of heart-lung machines), and Metropolitan General Hospital (specializing in burn treatment). The health care industry employs 125,000 workers (11 percent of the workforce) and generates $9 billion for the local economy. The Cleveland area has 9,000 physicians and 22,000 professional health care workers.
stations, including six college radio stations. The top ten radio stations reach an average adult audience of 344,197 daily. The Plain Dealer, Cleveland’s principal daily newspaper and Ohio’s largest daily newspaper, has a circulation of 1,002,892. Cleveland Magazine and Northern Ohio Live, regional arts and entertainment magazines, have a combined circulation of 241,000; a weekly newspaper reporting on the business community is Crain’s Cleveland Business.
The city of Cleveland’s Department of Public Health employs 320 people and has an operating budget of $24 million. In 1995, the department provided flu shots to 2,500 senior citizens, tested 5,000 adults for HIV/AIDS, screened 42,855 children for lead poisoning, and increased the number of patients served at health centers from 23,728 to 36,938. The infant mortality rate in inner-city neighborhoods served by the Department was 16.3 per 1,000 live births in 1993.
Cleveland has professional major league baseball (the Indians), men’s basketball (the Cavaliers), women’s basketball (the Rockers), hockey (the Lumberjacks), and indoor soccer (the Crunch) teams. Cleveland’s National Football League team, the Browns, was relocated in 1996 to Baltimore, Maryland, where the name was changed to the Ravens. Cleveland kept the rights to their NFL team name (Browns), and a new Browns team began playing in Cleveland in 1999.
14
Media
The Cleveland Designated Market Area (CDMA) comprises 1.47 million households, the fourteenth-largest media market in the U.S. (CDMA is defined as all counties in which Cleveland television stations receive a majority of total viewing hours.) Cleveland has network affiliate television broadcasters for ABC, CBS, NBC, and Fox. There are over 100 media companies in the area, and 25 AM and 34 FM radio
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15
Sports
The Indians won the World Series in 1920 and 1948. In 1995 and 1997, the Indians won the American League pennant, but lost in the World Series to the Atlanta Braves (1995) and the Florida Marlins (1997). Gund Arena, home to professional men’s and women’s basketball, professional hockey, and the site of numerous concerts and special events, opened in August 1994; it is one of the first buildings designed to comply with the Americans with Disabilities Act, with 200
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Cleveland seats for the disabled. There are 3,300 parking places at the arena, more than 10,000 parking spaces within a tenminute walk. About one hour west of Cleveland in Sandusky lies Cedar Point amusement park. To the southeast, in Aurora, Six Flags Ohio (formerly Geauga Lake) amusement park and Sea World of Ohio are popular summer attractions. 16
Parks and Recreation
The Cleveland Metroparks system, known as “The Emerald Necklace,” consists of 19,000 acres of parks that surround the city. The system includes 12 separate reservations and the Cleveland Metroparks Zoo, all within 15 minutes of downtown. Parks within the city of Cleveland itself have 163 tennis courts, 41 swimming pools, and 156 baseball diamonds. There are six separate park facilities on the shore of Lake Erie in the greater Cleveland area. In the city itself, the largest is Edgewater Park, which has 274 meters (900 feet) of beach. There are over 200 public and private golf courses and 35 bike trails in the area. The 32,000-acre Cuyahoga National Recreation Area covers 35 kilometers (22 miles) of the Cuyahoga River was established in 1974, and features hiking and nature programs. About 32 kilometers (20 miles) east of the city is The Holden Arboretum, one of the world’s largest museums of trees and shrubs.
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Performing Arts
Cleveland is host to a thriving music, theater, and film community. The Cleveland Orchestra (TCO), founded in 1918, is considered one of the finest orchestras in the world. TCO performs during the concert season at Severance Hall, which opened in 1931, and during the summer at Blossom Music Center. The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum, designed by I. M. Pei (1917–), opened on the lakeshore in downtown in 1994. The Polka Hall of Fame, located in Euclid, celebrates Polka Month (November) each year with an induction ceremony and a weekend-long program of concerts and events. The Cleveland Play House, the oldest repertory theater in the United States, operates three stages in a large theater complex. Karamu (Swahili for “a place of joyful gathering”) House is the oldest U.S. theater producing plays written by African Americans. In the downtown business district, the Playhouse Square area includes four theaters: the Ohio, home to the Great Lakes Theatre Festival; the State, home to Cleveland Opera and Cleveland Ballet; the Palace, home to large touring Broadway shows; and the Allen. There are 175 movie theaters in the greater Cleveland area. The Cleveland International Film Festival, held each spring, is nationally renowned. 18
Libraries and Museums
The Cleveland Public Library is the second largest municipal library in the
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Cleveland
Cleveland’s science museum (left) shares the lakefront with the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame (right) in downtown Cleveland. (EPD Photos)
United States. It was the first library in the country to allow users to take the books off the shelves themselves (without asking a librarian for help). In 1997, the main branch of the Cleveland Public Library opened the Louis Stokes Wing, a 48,865-square-meter (526,000square-foot) building.
Downtown Cleveland features the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum; the Great Lakes Science Center and Cleveland Clinic Omnimax Theatre; the William G. Mather Museum, a 188-meter (618-foot) ore freighter; and the USS Cod, a World War II submarine.
The 29-branch Cuyahoga County Public Library has the seventh-highest circulation rate in the United States. The Cleveland Area Metropolitan Library System (CAMLS) is a consortium of 77 public, academic, hospital, corporate, and school libraries.
University Circle is a 500-acre area on Cleveland’s east side, six kilometers (four miles) east of Public Square. A Loop Bus provides transportation between the points of interest in University Circle, including Case Western Reserve University, Cleveland Children’s Museum, Cleveland Health
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Cleveland Museum, Cleveland Institute of Art, Cleveland Institute of Music, the Cleveland Museum of Art, Severance Hall (home of the Cleveland Orchestra), the Cleveland Museum of Natural History, the Dittrick Museum of Medical History, the Temple Museum, Western Reserve Historical Society, and Crawford Auto-Aviation Museum. The Cleveland Museum of Art holds one of the world’s finest collections, consisting of more than 30,000 works produced over 5,000 years of world history. Founded in 1916, the collection is housed in a beaux-arts building designed by the Cleveland architectural firm of Hubbell and Benes and is situated on a 15-acre public park designed by the renowned Olmsted Brothers firm. Highlights of the museum’s collection include Van Gogh’s Poplars at Saint-Remy, Picasso’s La Vie and Harlequin with Violin, Michaelangelo’s The Crucifixion of St. Anthony and Degas’ The Dancers. The Cleveland Center for Contemporary Art is housed in a former Sears & Roebuck store adjacent to the Cleveland Play House. South of Cleveland in Canton, Ohio, is the Pro Football Hall of Fame, where memorabilia of professional football and its players is displayed. Between Cleveland and Akron, Hale Farm and Village depicts nineteenthcentury rural life in Northeast Ohio.
million domestic visitors. Five-hundred-thousand visitors toured the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum, one of the city’s largest national and international draws since its opening in 1994. For conventions, the downtown offers the Cleveland Convention Center, the Clarion Hotel and Conference Center, and the I-X Center. 20
Holidays and Festivals
MARCH St. Patrick’s Day Parade Buzzard Day, Cleveland Metroparks Hinckley Reservation, celebrating annual migration of the turkey vulture
APRIL Cleveland International Film Festival Tri-C Jazz Fest, Cuyahoga County Community College Revco-Cleveland Marathon and 10-K race
APRIL-MAY I-X Indoor Amusement Park with ten-story ferris wheel
JUNE Parade the Circle Celebration, University Circle, first Saturday in June Summer Art Walk, Little Italy
JULY Cleveland Orchestra Concert on Public Square
AUGUST Feast of the Assumption, Little Italy Twins Day Festival, Twinsburg, southwest of Cleveland
SEPTEMBER National Air Show, Burke Lakefront Airport
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To u r i s m
In 1995, Cleveland had 12,621 hotel rooms and attracted some seven
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OCTOBER Sweetest Day (October 10) was first celebrated in Cleveland Columbus Day Parade
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Cleveland election to become the first black mayor of a major U.S. city.
NOVEMBER Polka Festival Weekend (Thanksgiving Weekend) and Polka Hall of Fame induction
Famous citizens born in the Cleveland area include:
Toni Morrison (b. 1931), born in Cleveland-area community of Lorain, winner of the 1988 Pulitzer Prize for literature and the 1993 Nobel Prize for literature.
Charles Brush (1849–1929), inventor of the arc light.
Famous citizens who resided in Cleveland include:
Hart Crane (1899–1932), modernist lyrical poet.
John D. Rockefeller (b. New York, 1839– 1937), founder of Standard Oil of Ohio, richest man in the world and philanthropist.
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Famous Citizens
Jesse Owens (1913–80), Olympic athlete, set a world record for the 100yard dash when he was a senior at East Tech High. Adella Prentiss Hughes (1869–1950), founder and first manager of the Cleveland Orchestra. Bob Hope (b. 1903), actor and vaudevillian. Jerry Siegel and Joe Schuster, creators of Superman, the comic book hero, while students at Glenville High in 1933. Dorothy Fuldheim (1893–1989), the first woman television news anchor, beginning in 1947. Alan Freed (1922–65), radio disc jockey who coined the term “rock and roll”. Paul Brown (1908–91), coach of Cleveland Browns football team. Carl B. Stokes (1927–96), grandson of a s l a v e w h o d e f e a t e d S e t h Taf t , grandson of President William H. Taft, in the November 13, 1967,
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George Szell (b. Hungary, 1897–1970), internationally renowned conductor and music director of the Cleveland Orchestra. Elliot Ness (1903–57), famed crime fighter, stationed in Cleveland 1934–1942. 22
For Further Study
Websites City of Cleveland Home Page. [Online] Available http://www.cleveland.oh.us (accessed on January 15, 2000). Crain’s Cleveland Business. [Online] Available www.crainscleveland.com (accessed on January 15, 2000). Homepage maintained by local newspaper and television station. [Online] Available www.cleveland.com (accessed on January 15, 2000).
Government Offices City Hall 601 Lakeside Avenue Cleveland, OH 44114 (216) 664–2000 Community Relations Board (216) 664–3290
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Cleveland Mayor’s Office 601 Lakeside Avenue Suite 202 Cleveland, OH 44114 (216) 664–2220
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Convention and Visitors Bureau of Greater Cleveland 50 Public Square, Suite 3100 Cleveland, Ohio 44113 (800) 321–1001 (216) 621–4110 Greater Cleveland Growth Association 200 Tower City Center, 50 Public Square Cleveland, Ohio 44113 (216) 621–3300 The New Cleveland Campaign 1809 East Ninth Street, Suite 1020 Cleveland, Ohio 44113 (216) 574–8940
Publications Call and Post (African American newspaper) 1949 East 105th St. Cleveland, OH 44115
Books African American Heritage Trail of Cleveland Tour Guide. Cleveland: National Association of Black Journalists, Cleveland Chapter, 199?. Cameron, Patience. Cleveland on Foot: A Guide to Walking and Hiking in Cleveland and Vicinity. Cleveland: Gray & Co., 1995. Cleveland, A City Built on Strong Neighborhoods: A Comprehensive Guide to the City’s Thirty-six Neighborhoods. Cleveland: LIVE Pub., 1996. Cleveland Fact Book. Cleveland: Greater Cleveland Growth Association, 1997. A Galaxy of Cleveland’s Black Stars, 1796–1996: A Bicentennial Activity Book for Children, Ages 7– 12. Cleveland: New Day Press, 1996. Grabowski, John J. Sports in Cleveland: An Illustrated History. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1992. Johnston, Christopher. ed. Best Things in Life: 236 Favorite Things about Cleveland (by Clevelanders). Cleveland: Gray & Co., 1994. Peacock, Nancy. Kidding Around Cleveland: A Funfilled, Fact-Packed Travel and Activity Book. Sante Fe, New Mexico: J. Muir Publications, 1997. Springstubb, Tricia. Cleveland for Kids. Cleveland: The Cleveland Arts Consortium, 1993.
Cleveland Magazine 1422 Euclid Avenue, Suite 730 Cleveland, Ohio 44115
Van Tassel, David D., and John J. Grabowski, ed. The Dictionary of Cleveland Biography. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1996.
Crain’s Cleveland Business 700 West St. Clair Ave., Suite 310 Cleveland, OH 44113–1230
Van Tassel, David D., and John J. Grabowski, ed. The Encyclopedia of Cleveland History. 2nd ed. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1996.
Northern Ohio Live 11320 Juniper Road Cleveland, Ohio 44106 Nueves Horizontes magazine (serving the Hispanic community) 2012 West 25th Street, Suite 717 Cleveland, Ohio 44113 The Plain Dealer 1801 Superior Avenue Cleveland, Ohio 44114 (216) 999–5000
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Stoffel, Jennifer, and Stephen Phillips. Cleveland Discovery Guide: Greater Cleveland’s Best Family Recreation. Cleveland: Gray & Co., 1994. Wickham, Gertrude Van Rensselaer. The Pioneer Families of Cleveland 1796–1840. Salem, Massachusetts: Higginson Book Co., 1993.
Videorecordings Cleveland Neighborhood Development Corporation. Cleveland Neighborhoods: Weaving the Fabric of the City. Cleveland, OH: The Corporation, [199–?]. One 15-minute videocassette.
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Dallas Dallas, Texas, United States of America, North America Founded: 1841 Location: North-central Texas; southern United States, North America Slogan: “Dallas, the Texas Star” Flag: White star with yellow emblem centered over stripes of red, white, and blue (top to bottom). Flower: Bluebonnet (Texas state flower) Time Zone: 6 AM Central Standard Time (CST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: White 65%; Black 14%; Hispanic origin (of any race) 17%; other, including Native Americans and Asian/Pacific Islanders, 21%. Elevation: 150–250 m (500–800 ft) above sea level Latitude and Longitude: 32º50'N, 96º50'W Climate: Hot, humid summers and mild winters. Annual Mean Temperature: January 1ºC (34ºF); July 37ºC (98ºF) Average Annual Precipitation: Snowfall is rare; precipitation is 750 mm (29.5 in). Government: Council-manager, with an 11-member council, 8 of whom are elected from single-member districts; the remaining 2 and the mayor are chosen by voters in a nonpartisan election. Weights and Measures: Standard U.S. Monetary Units: Standard U.S. Telephone Area Codes: 214 and 972 Postal Codes: 75201–75398
1
Introduction
Dallas is located on the rolling prairies of northeast Texas, where the three branches of the Trinity River merge. It is the second-largest city in Texas and the eighth-largest city in the United States. Founded in 1841 by John Neely Bryan, who chose the site along the river for his trading post, Dallas grew slowly at first. However, significant expansion occurred during the Civil War years (1861–65), when Dallas was used as a supply depot for Confederate troops. In 1872 the Texas Central Railroad was routed through town, and a
year later the Texas Pacific Railroad arrived. The 1930 oil strike in east Texas caused a boom in the Dallas economy, with the city becoming a financial and freight center serving the oil wells. Dallas entered the twenty-first century a center for banking, oil, cotton, and high technology, as well as a rapidly expanding city, both in terms of population and economy. 2
Getting There
Highways Several major highways lead into Dallas. Interstate-20 runs east to west. I-
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Dallas
Dallas Population Profile City Proper Population: 1,068,880 Area: 980 sq km (378 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 65% white; 14% black; 17% Hispanic descent, any race; remainder Native American and Asian or Pacific Islander descent Nicknames: Big D
Metropolitan Area Population: 3,912,000 Description: Includes Dallas and suburbs (the area known as DFW Metroplex also includes Forth Worth, Arlington, and suburbs) Area: 16,800 sq km (6,490 sq mi) World population rank1: 62 Percentage of national population2: 1.4% Average yearly growth rate: 1.6% ——— 1. The Dallas metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the total US population living in the Dallas metropolitan area.
30 runs from the northeast into the city. Running northeast to southwest is I-35, the major route from Dallas to Austin and San Antonio. I-45 runs from Dallas southeast to Houston. US 75 (North Central Expressway) comes into Dallas from the North. I-635 forms a loop around Dallas and the neighboring cities of Arlington and Fort Worth. Driving time to Houston is three hours and 40 minutes, while it takes four-anda-half hours to drive to San Antonio. Bus and Railroad Service Both buses and passenger trains serve Dallas. The Greyhound bus sta-
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tion is located downtown at 205 S. Lamar Street, and in addition to Greyhound, several other smaller bus lines run out of this location, including El Conejo and Euro-Coach. Trains arrive at Amtrak’s Union Station, 400 S. Houston Street. Airports Dallas has two airports: DallasForth Worth International Airport (DFW) and the smaller Love Field, which offers commuter transit. DFW is located 29 kilometers (18 miles) northwest of downtown. Transportation to and from the airport is available by bus, airport shuttle, rental car, or taxi. Most major domestic airlines fly into Dallas, including American, Continental, Delta, and TWA. Regional airlines include America West, Atlantic Southeast, Southwest, and Sun Country. Several international airlines also service Dallas, such as Aeromexico, British Airways, Japan Airlines, and Korean Air. Flight times from major U.S. cities are as follows: New York, four hours; Chicago, two-and-a-half hours; Los Angeles, three hours. 3
Getting Around
Major highways converge in the center of the city, just east of the Trinity River, forming a loose, lopsided rectangle. Due to rapid expansion in the latter half of the twentieth century, roads sprawl haphazardly in many directions, making it difficult to tell Dallas proper from surrounding suburbs and cities.
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Dallas
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Dallas
City Fact Comparison Dallas (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
3,912,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1841
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$89
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$44
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$26
$14
$15
$16
$135
$173
$246
$207
Total daily costs (hotel, meals, incidentals) Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper
1
13
20
11
The Dallas Morning News
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
479,863
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1885
1944
1976
1948
Date largest newspaper was established 1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
Streets do not form a traditional grid, making travel confusing. The main roads downtown are Main Street, Elm Street, and Commerce Street. Buses and Commuter Rail Service Dallas Area Rapid Transit System (DART) offers bus and light rail transportation to the city and 12 surrounding suburban communities. DART provides 130 bus routes, while the light rail services major sites, with free parking at most rail terminals. A trolley line circulates downtown. Fares for DART range from 50 cents to two dollars.
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Walking Because of urban and suburban sprawl, Dallas is not a city well suited for pedestrians. However, tourists can and do take walking tours downtown and in the historic West End. In most other areas, people either drive or take public transportation. 4
People
Prior to the Civil War, Dallas’ peak population was only 430 people. However, by 1990 it was the second-largest city in Texas and the eighth-largest city in the United States. Estimates for 1999 put the population at 1,068,800, while
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Dallas the total population of the Dallas-Fort Worth region is estimated at just under five million. In 1997 whites were the ethnic majority at 65 percent. Those of Hispanic descent made up 17 percent of the population, while African Americans accounted for 14 percent. The remaining population is made up of Native Americans and a growing number of immigrants from Asia and Europe. 5
Neighborhoods
A sprawling megalopolis, Dallas is often lumped together with neighboring Fort Worth and Arlington, the entire area called the DFW Metroplex by residents. These three separate cities blend seamlessly together and, along with several suburbs, form one large metropolis. Each neighborhood in Dallas has its own flavor. The West End Historic District is a preservation area, with buildings from the early 1900s transformed into retail spaces. Another historic area is the Swiss Avenue District, where over 200 houses have been preserved, the houses representing Georgian, Prairie, and Spanish architectural styles. The Dallas downtown area combines historic buildings with a modern skyline. The downtown skyline is a cluster of buildings designed by some of the twentieth century’s most prominent architects, such as I. M. Pei (b. 1917) and Frank Lloyd Wright (1867– 1959). Architect William D. Cook came up with the layout plans for the upscale
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suburb of Highland Park, which is located just north of downtown. One of the most popular and upscale neighborhoods in Dallas is the newly renovated warehouse district of Deep Ellum, which was the center of the city’s African American population for much of the twentieth century. Only three blocks from downtown, this neighborhood represents a shift in Dallas’ city expansion, with suburban growth slowing and more people moving back into the central city. Dallas, along with its surrounding communities, is home to 45 colleges and universities. Neighborhoods catering to students surround Southern Methodist University, located directly north of Highland Park, and the University of Texas at Dallas, at the northernmost edge of the city. 6
History
In 1841 John Neely Bryan settled at a site where the Trinity River’s three branches merged. Bryan noticed that the river’s main branch was narrower at this point than at any other place for miles, making it an ideal place for a trading post. By 1842 a few more settlers arrived and Bryan’s encampment was called Peter’s Colony. In 1845 the name was changed to honor U.S. Vice President George Mifflin Dallas (1792–1864). Dallas was incorporated as a town in 1856 and as a city in 1871. The settlement grew slowly until the Civil War, when it served as a sup-
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Dallas
Dallas’s central business district is the heart of the city. (Dallas Convention & Visitors Bureau)
ply depot for Confederate troops. In 1872 the Texas Central Railroad was lured to Dallas through bribes and land gifts. The following year, the Texas Pacific Railroad was routed into town, making Dallas the major distribution center of the southwest. Cotton, wheat, and wool all came into Dallas to be exported by rail. Between 1872 and 1886 the population expanded from 6,000 to 36,000. Cotton growing in north Texas made Dallas one of the world’s largest inland cotton markets, and by 1900 Dallas had become the regional financial center servicing Texas’ cotton farmers. The next boom for Dallas came in 1930 with the east Texas oil strike. The city’s financial institutions began ser-
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vicing the region’s oil magnates, and many of Dallas’ citizens became rich off of petroleum-related enterprises. The 1930s also made outlaw robbers Clyde Barrow and Bonnie Parker an infamous part of Dallas’ history. Both lived in the city as children, and they were working in Dallas in January of 1930 when they met. After several of their escapades, Bonnie and Clyde were nearly captured in Dallas in 1933. They were ambushed by Dallas police but escaped with only minor injuries. A fire and flooding both influenced the city’s development. In 1860 a fire destroyed much of the downtown business district. By 1908 frequent flooding of the Trinity River forced city leaders to consider redesigning the city. Planning engineer George Kessler developed a
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Dallas city plan that included widening the Trinity River, moving railroad tracks outside of the city, and widening city streets. At the time, these plans were considered radical; however, Kessler’s ideas were slowly carried out over many years. Perhaps Dallas will always best be known for one dark moment in American history. On November 22, 1963, President John F. Kennedy (president 1961–63; 1917–1963) was assassinated as his motorcade passed by Dealy Plaza in downtown Dallas. Riding in an open limousine, President Kennedy was shot twice, once in the head and once in the neck. He was pronounced dead upon arriving at Parkland Memorial Hospital. Texas Governor Connally, riding with Kennedy, was also shot, though not fatally. After the shots, a reporter looked up at surrounding buildings and saw a rifle being drawn back into a sixth-floor window of the Texas School Book Depository. Lee Harvey Oswald was accused of the killing. Oswald himself was shot only two days later in the basement of a Dallas police station by Jack Ruby. A presidential commission headed by Earl Warren, U.S. Supreme Court Chief Justice, ruled that Oswald acted alone and was not part of a conspiracy, as many believed. Skeptics dispute the Warren Report, though conclusive evidence has yet to be uncovered implicating anyone other than Oswald. The controversy and mystique surrounding the Kennedy assassination draw many tourists to both Dealy Plaza and the Texas School Book Depository. Dedicated in June 1970, the
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John F. Kennedy Memorial, designed as a place for remembrance and meditation, is located at the corner of Main and Market Streets. Dallas’ image was tarnished by the Kennedy assassination, and the city worked hard to rebuild its reputation. In 1973 the Dallas-Fort Worth Airport opened, and in 1984 Dallas hosted the Republican National Convention. From 1980 to 1982 the television drama Dallas was the top-rated series in the United States. In 1998 the city suffered through a severe drought and heat wave. Temperatures of at least 56°C (100°F) held for 29 consecutive days, causing widespread crop damage and more than 100 deaths. At the beginning of the twenty-first century, Dallas is still a center for traditional businesses, including the cotton and petroleum industries. It is also a center for women’s fashions, and it is a regional hub for financial and insurance institutions. High-tech industry has been growing in Dallas and is projected to be a major growth industry in coming years. 7
Government
In 1931 Dallas adopted a city council-city manager style of government. The city is run by a city manager who is appointed by an elected mayor and an elected city council. The city manager is not a politician and is charged with the responsibility of handling administrative matters for the city. The mayor is
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Dallas elected to a four-year term, while the ten city council members are elected for two-year terms. The mayor may serve two terms, and the council members may serve four terms. 8
Public Safety
As of 1997, the city of Dallas had 2,872 uniformed police officers working out of six full-service police stations. Fifty-five fire stations and 1,544 firefighters served the city as well. In 1998 the crime rate in Dallas was significantly above the national average. The property crime rate was 5,470 per 100,000 people, and the violent crime rate was 717.6 per 100,000. According to a 1999 Money magazine survey of 300 major cities, Dallas ranked at numbers 222 and 221 respectively in these two crime categories.
petroleum companies. Dallas is home to more petroleum company headquarters than any other city. Dallas is a major international cotton market, and the city has more than 250 insurance company headquarters. About 20 percent of Dallas area workers are employed in manufacturing industries. Twenty percent work in the service sector, while close to 30 percent work in retail. After World War II (1939–45), Dallas became one of the country’s largest manufacturers of aircraft and missile parts. In the 1950s, Texas Instruments, the company that created the integrated circuit computer chip and the hand-held calculator, pioneered Dallas’ high-tech movement, a trend that continues into the twenty-first century. 10
9
Economy
In 1999 the Dallas economy was especially strong, in keeping with a robust U.S. economy. The unemployment rate was a low three percent, and job growth from 1998 to 1999 stood at 3.8 percent, well above the national average. The Dallas economy is projected to grow nearly 20 percent by the year 2010. Dallas is a regional financial center, serving the American southwest. As such, it is home to the Eleventh District Federal Reserve Bank. Although the Texas oil boom slowed in the latter half of the twentieth century, The city continues to serve as a corporate center for
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Environment
Situated on the rolling prairies of northeast Texas, along the Trinity River, the altitude of Dallas ranges from 137 to 229 meters (450 to 750 feet) above sea level. Historically, the Dallas area has been plagued by floods and drought due to its location in a region between lush and rainy Louisiana and the desert of west Texas; wet and dry years often alternate. Though droughts have hit the city as recently as 1998, city officials combated the flood problem early in the twentieth century by straightening and widening the channel of the Trinity River. The Trinity River, as many highly trafficked bodies of waters, was polluted
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Dallas for much of the twentieth century, though clean-up efforts and a lessening of water-borne shipping have improved the river’s water quality. In 1998 the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) gave the Dallas watershed a high rating, well above the national average; however, the air quality was not as good, ranking below the national average. In September 1995, the EPA made Dallas a pilot city for its Brownfields National Partnership grant program. (Brownfields are abandoned and contaminated industrial sites.) The program allotted nearly $53 million towards the cleanup and redevelopment of blighted areas in Dallas. Dallas has a Sunbelt climate, with hot summers and mild winters. Average highs in July are close to 53°C (96°F), while average lows in January only dip to 19°C (34°F). It rarely snows in Dallas. Annual average rainfall is 81 centimeters (32 inches). Dallas’ Sunbelt climate offers an average of 237 sunny days per year. 11
Shopping
Dallas is said to have more per capita retail space that any other city in America, and its 630 shopping centers lend credence to this claim. The city’s most popular store is the downtown Neiman-Marcus on Main Street. The Dallas Galleria is a major shopping mall, with more than 160 stores and an ice skating rink. In the West End, a cracker factory has been converted into the West End
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The Texas Rangers brings exciting Major League Baseball to the ballpark in Arlington. (Dallas Convention & Visitors Bureau)
Marketplace, a collection of specialty shops. To the north of the West End is the Quadrangle, a cluster of upscale shops. Art galleries and antique shops are concentrated on Coit Road. The Farmers Market is located at 1010 South Pearl Street. The city is probably best known for its cotton products, especially women’s clothing. Cotton dresses can be purchased at bargain prices in area stores. Dallas is becoming a high-tech center,
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Dallas and the Infomart complex has offices and showrooms for many high-tech information companies. 12
Education
There are 40 public school districts in the Dallas-Fort Worth Metroplex and more than 250 private and parochial schools in the area. The Dallas Independent School District is the tenth-largest school district in the United States, with 220 schools and 157,000 students. The Dallas Independent School District has ten magnet high schools, two secondary special education schools, and five secondary alternative schools. Until the 1880s Dallas schools were private. In 1877 Dallas voters turned down a proposal to levy taxes to form a public school system. It wasn’t until 1881 that the tax levy was passed, and in 1884 the first Dallas public schools opened.
las County. These community colleges enroll nearly 100,000 students each semester. 13
Health Care
There are 37 general hospitals in Dallas, the major hospitals being Baylor University Medical Center, Methodist Medical Center, and St. Paul Medical Center. Other health services include the Dallas Homeless Outreach Medical Services, which offers mobile medical care to the underprivileged and homeless, and the Parkland Health and Hospital System, which provides a network of neighborhood-based health centers. LocalSource Dallas (www.localsource.com) offers free referrals to area doctors. Dallas residents interested in alternatives to Western medicine have access to acupuncturists, holistic healers, and message therapists.
Dallas and its nearby communities are home to 45 colleges and universities, which attract more than 250,000 students to the area each year. Public universities in the Dallas area include the University of North Texas, the University of Texas at Dallas, and Texas Women’s University. Private colleges and universities include the Dallas Baptist College, Southern Methodist University, Texas Christian University, and Texas Wesleyan University.
The Dallas Morning News is the city’s daily general newspaper. The Dallas Observer and the Dallas Times are weekly papers covering news, features, and entertainment. The Daily Commercial Record covers legal and business news, while the Dallas Business Journal provides business coverage.
Dallas has a large community college enrollment. The Dallas County Community College District consists of seven colleges located throughout Dal-
Television stations include the following: 4 (FOX), 5 (NBC), 8 (ABC), 11 (CBS), 13 (PBS), 21 (UPN), 27 and 39 (independent), and 68 (public access).
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14
Media
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Dallas
Historic Fair Park is the home of the annual Southwestern Bell Cotton Bowl Classic football game. (Dallas Convention & Visitors Bureau)
A variety of commercial radio stations serve the Dallas-Fort Worth Metroplex, broadcasting everything from rock to classical to sports to talk shows. Dallas’ public radio station is KERA 90.1 FM. 15
Sports
Dallas has six professional sports teams, including baseball’s Texas Rangers who play in Arlington. The city’s professional football team, the Cowboys, have won five Super Bowl titles. Dallas’ professional hockey team, the Stars, won the Stanley Cup in the 1998–
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1999 season. Also playing are the Mavericks, a professional basketball team, and two pro soccer teams, the Burn, an outdoor team, and the Sidekicks, an indoor team. The Mesquite Championship Rodeo has weekly competitions from April through September. Dallas hosts college football’s Cotton Bowl on New Year’s Day. 16
Parks and Recreation
Dallas has 336 parks, with parkland covering over 50,000 acres. Dallas resi-
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Dallas dents have access to 50 reservoirs and lakes for fishing, swimming, sailing, and boating. White Rock Lake is Dallas’ version of New York’s Central Park. White Rock, in the center of the city, is a favorite for jogging, biking, fishing, and sailing. Dallas has over 805 kilometers (500 miles) of bike trails in parks and bike lanes along city streets. Many city parks also have public golf courses. Other participant sports offered in the city include horseback riding, ice-skating, swimming, sailing, and tennis. Six Flags Over Texas is one of the country’s oldest and biggest amusement parks. Located just west of Dallas in Arlington, only a 20-minute drive from downtown Dallas, Six Flags has more than 100 rides, shows, and attractions and is home to Mr. Freeze, the tallest and fastest roller coaster in Texas (as of 1999). 17
Performing Arts
Dallas is home to several performing arts organizations. Plays are staged at the Dallas Theater Center, housed in a building designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. Two symphonies perform regularly, the Mesquite Symphony Orchestra and the celebrated Dallas Symphony Orchestra, which performs downtown in Mortin H. Meyerson Hall. Dallas also has a ballet, several summer musical festivals, an African-American dance theater, a Shakespeare festival, and several community theater groups. The Deep Ellum neighborhood, a renovated warehouse district just east of downtown, has long been Dallas’ unof-
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ficial music center. In the early 1900s, Deep Ellum was the center of the city’s African-American community, and in the 1920s and 1930s famous blues musicians often played in area clubs. Leadbelly and Blind Lemon Jefferson both performed in many of Deep Ellum’s clubs. In the 1990s, Deep Ellum attracted bands that performed a variety of musical styles, including rock, jazz, alternative, Latin, and country. 18
Libraries and Museums
Dallas has 23 city libraries housing over seven million volumes of books. The main branch of the library is the J. Erik Jonsson Central Library at 1515 Young Street. A good place to learn about Dallas’ history is the G. B. Dealy Library. Maintained by the Dallas Historical Society, the G. B. Dealy Library collects materials documenting Dallas’ past. The Dallas Museum of Art displays works ranging from pre-Columbian to contemporary. The Dallas Aquarium houses nearly 400 species of aquatic animals. The Dallas Zoo keeps its animals in areas meant to recreate natural habitats. The Sixth Floor Museum, the John F. Kennedy Memorial, and the Conspiracy Museum all explore the life of President John F. Kennedy and his eventual assassination in Dallas. The Sixth Floor Museum is in the former Texas School Book Depository, the site from where Lee Harvey Oswald shot President Kennedy.
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Dallas 19
To u r i s m
Hot, muggy summers and cool, rainy winters make spring and fall the best times to visit the city. Dallas has plenty of restaurants—four times more restaurants per capita than New York City. Local cuisines include southwestern, Tex-Mex, and Texas-style steakhouses. Dallas restaurants vary from cheap hole-in-the-wall diners to fourstar restaurants, of which Dallas has six. Popular dining locations are Restaurant Row, Uptown, and the West End. Dallas is also considered one of Texas’ premiere night spots. Each night, up to 110 musical acts perform around the city. Although the music ranges from jazz and blues to rock and alternative, tourists tend to favor the many country and western bars around the city. Many fine hotels service downtown Dallas, but when staying downtown, even the more run-of-the-mill motels tend to charge high prices. For more affordable lodging, it is necessary to stay outside of the city limits. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY New Year’s Day Cotton Bowl
MARCH Dallas Blooms, held in the Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Garden
MAY Memorial Day weekend’s Artfest
JULY AND AUGUST Shakespeare Festival in Samuel Grand Park
SEPTEMBER Dallas Airshow at Love Field
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Big Tex greets over 3 million visitors to the State Fair of Texas each year. (Dallas Convention & Visitors Bureau)
OCTOBER Texas State Fair Cityfest
LATE OCTOBER—EARLY NOVEMBER Autumn at the Arboretum
DECEMBER Cotton Bowl pre-game parade and celebration
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Famous Citizens
John H. Holliday (d. 1887), better known as “Doc” Holliday, gun-
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Dallas fighter and gambler, a once-practicing dentist in Dallas. Blind Lemon Jefferson (1897–1929), blues musician who earned his fame playing in the Deep Ellum neighborhood of Dallas, the bestselling black blues singer in the United States for three years in the 1920s. Clyde Barrow (1909–1934) and Bonnie Parker (1911–1934), outlaws. Harry Hines, millionaire who made his fortune in oil, served as Texas Highway Commission Chairman from 1935 to 1941. Annette Strauss, Dallas’ first woman mayor, elected in 1987. 22
For Further Study
Dallas, TX 75201 (214) 670–4607. Dallas Mayor’s Office 1500 Marilla, Room 5EN Dallas, TX 75201 (214) 670–4054 Dallas Parks and Recreation 1500 Marilla, Room 6FN Dallas, TX 75201 (214) 670–4071 Dallas Police Department 2014 Main Street Dallas, TX 75201 (214) 670–3698
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Dallas Convention and Visitors Bureau 1201 Elm Street, Suite 2000 Dallas, TX 75270 (214) 571–1000 Dallas Visitor Information Center 100 Houston Street Dallas, TX 75202 (214) 571–1300
Websites
Publications
Areaguide Dallas. [Online] Available http:// www.dallas.areaguides.net (accessed January 15, 2000). City of Dallas official website.[Online] Available http:// www.ci.dallas.tx.us/ (accessed January 15, 2000). Dallas Chamber of Commerce. [Online] Available http://www.dallaschamber.org (accessed January 15, 2000). Dallas Convention and Visitors Bureau. [Online] Available http:// www.dallascvb.com (accessed January 15, 2000). LocalSource Dallas. [Online] Available http:// www.local-source.com (accessed January 15, 2000). Virtual Relocation: Dallas. [Online] Available http://www.virtualrelocation.com/usa/ Texas/Cities/Dallas/ (accessed January 15, 2000).
Daily Commercial Record 706 Main Street Dallas, Texas 75202 Phone: (214) 741–6366
Government Offices Dallas Fire Department 1500 Marilla, Room 7A South
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Dallas Business Journal 10670 North Central Expressway, Suite 710 Dallas, TX 75231 Phone: (214) 696–5959 Dallas Morning News 508 Young Street Dallas, TX 75202 Phone: (214) 977–8222 The Dallas Observer P.O. Box 190289 Dallas, TX 75219 Phone: (214) 757–9000 Dallas Times 200 W Jefferson Blvd. Dallas, TX 75208 Phone: (214) 943–7445
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Denver Denver, Colorado, United States of America, North America Founded: 1858; Incorporated: 1861 Location: North-central Colorado near the foothills of the Rocky Mountains Motto: Nil sine numine (Nothing without providence; state motto) Flower: Rocky Mountain columbine (state flower) Time Zone: 5 AM Mountain Standard Time (EST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: White 83.6%, Black 12.8%, American Indian 1.2%, Asian/ Pacific Islander 2.4% Elevation: 1,609 meters (5,280 feet) above sea level Latitude and Longitude: 39º66'N, 104º83'W Coastline: None Climate: Mild, dry, arid climate; mild winters and comfortable summers with low humidity Annual Mean Temperature: 10ºC (50ºF); January –1ºC (30ºF); August 22ºC (72ºF) Seasonal Average Snowfall: 152 cm (60 in) Average Annual Precipitation (total of rainfall and melted snow): 39.4 cm (15.5 in). Government: Mayor-council Weights and Measures: Standard U.S. Monetary Units: Standard U.S. Telephone Area Codes: 303, 720 Postal Codes: 80201–14, 80216–25, 80227, 80229, 80231, 80233–95
1
Introduction
From a nineteenth-century gold and silver boomtown frequented by gamblers and gunmen, Denver, the capital of Colorado, has evolved into a major Western commercial and population center, the largest city in a 965kilometer (600-mile) radius. Today Denver is known as much for the cultural sophistication, business savvy, and new skyline of its flourishing downtown as for the majestic mountain backdrop that borders the city and provides a picturesque view and abundant recre-
ational opportunities for residents and visitors alike. 2
Getting There
Located 1.6 kilometers (one mile) above sea level, Denver is situated on the high rolling plains of north-central Colorado, at the junction of the South Platte River and Cherry Creek and near the eastern foothills of the Rocky Mountains and the Continental Divide. Although generally regarded as a Western city, it is only 557 kilometers (346 miles) west of the exact center of the continental United States and is more
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Denver centrally located than any other major U.S. city except Kansas City, Missouri.
Denver Population Profile
Highways Denver is accessible by I-25 (State Route 87), running north-south, and I70, running east-west. Merging with I25 north of the city is I-76, which runs northeast to southwest to the east of the city; I-225 connects I-25 and I-70. Together with State Route 470, I-225 and I-70 form a loop around the city. Bus and Railroad Service Amtrak trains stop at Denver’s Union Station three times daily on its major east-west route from Chicago to Los Angeles. Greyhound provides all long-distance bus service to Denver. The city is a major inter-city busline hub, with more than 60 arrivals and departures daily.
City Proper Population: 510,000 Area: 397 sq km (153.3 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 83.6% white; 12.8% black; 1.2% Native American; 2.4% Asian/Pacific Islander Nicknames: The Mile High City, The Queen City of the Plains, The City of Silver and Gold
Metropolitan Area Population: 1,901,156 Description: Area within city limits, plus the suburbs of Arvada, Northglenn, Westminster, Thornton, Aurora, Golden, Lakewood, Wheat Ridge, Cherry Hills, Greenwood Villages, Littleton, and Englewood Area: 9,741 sq km (3,761 sq mi) World population rank1: 199 Percentage of national population2: 0.6% Average yearly growth rate: 1.0% Ethnic composition: 90.1% white; 6.2% black; 2.9% Asian/Pacific Islander ——— 1. The Denver metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the total US population living in the Denver metropolitan area.
Airports Denver International Airport, which opened in 1995, covers 137 square kilometers (53 square miles) and has five full-service runways. The airport, which served over 37 million passengers in 1999 and has a maximum capacity of 110 million passengers, is the second-largest hub nationwide for United Airlines. With “peaks” designed to represent the Rocky Mountains, the airport’s main terminal building has become one of Denver’s most prominent architectural landmarks.
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Shipping Thanks to its central location, Denver is a major commercial hub for ground transportation, serving four major rail carriers and more than 160 trucking companies, as well as air cargo carriers. It is estimated that more than 30 million people receive goods transported through Denver by air, rail, or truck every year. With its designation as a Free Trade Zone, the city is also a busy import and export center.
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Denver
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Denver 3
Getting Around
Downtown Denver is laid out in a grid pattern and bordered on the south by Colfax Avenue (the major east-west thoroughfare) and on the east by Broadway, running north-south. The downtown area is easy to negotiate. It is possible to walk from one end to the other in about a half-hour, and the mountains on the western horizon make it easy to get one’s bearings at all times. In the part of the city outside the immediate downtown area (which has its own grid pattern), avenues run from east to west while streets run northsouth. Bus and Commuter Rail Service Denver’s Regional Transportation District (RTD) runs bus routes that carry passengers to every part of the urban area between the hours of 5:30 AM and 10:30 PM. The main bus station is located at Broadway and Colfax, next door to the Civic Center. The RTD also operates a light rail system along a limited route. The Cultural Connection Trolley (which is actually a bus) covers a downtown loop route that takes in many of the city’s major cultural attractions. Sightseeing Gray Line Tours operates out of the city’s main bus terminal at 19th Street and Arapahoe Street and offers sightseeing tours of Denver and the surrounding area. Half- and full-day scenic and historic tours are offered by Best Mountain Tours and Discover Colorado
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Tours. There is also a special tour available of the area’s brewpubs. 4
People
Denver is the nation’s twentieth most populous city. In 1990, the population of Denver was 468,000, of which 12.8 percent was black, 1.2 percent American Indian, and 2.4 percent Asian. Hispanics (both white and black) accounted for 23 percent of the population. As part of a larger statewide population boom, the city’s population has increased by 23 percent in the past decade; the current population is estimated at 510,000. The population of the Denver Primary Metropolitan Statistical Area was estimated at 1,901,156 in 1997. The region’s racial composition was listed by the U.S. Census Bureau in 1996 as 90.1 percent white; 6.2 percent black; 2.9 percent Asian/Pacific Islander. The percentage of residents of Hispanic origin (an ethnic rather than a racial designation) was 14.2 percent. The median age of Denver’s residents is 32.9, slightly lower than the U.S. median age of 33.2. However, the age group that really stands out is the baby boomer generation: Denver has a greater percentage of boomers among its population than any other major U.S. city—32.8 percent (compared with 31.5 percent for its nearest competitor, Seattle).
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Denver
City Fact Comparison Denver (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
1,687,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1858
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$83
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$40
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$24
$14
$15
$16
$125
$173
$246
$207
2
13
20
11
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
Total daily costs (hotel, meals, incidentals) Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
Akhbar El Yom/ The Denver Post Al Akhbar 341,554
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1892
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
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Neighborhoods
Downtown Denver is divided into four main districts. To the south lies the Civic Center Park area. The park, which is the locale for Denver’s major annual festivities, is surrounded by museums and government buildings, and the state capitol building is located on a nearby hilltop. The heart of Denver’s business and theater districts is the 16th Street Mall, a mile-long pedestrian-only thoroughfare located a block away from Civic Center Park. A series of parks and shops line the mall, including Denver Pavilions, a recently completed entertain-
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ment complex whose attractions include a Hard Rock Cafe and 15 movie houses. The historic center of the city is the LoDo (short for Lower Downtown) district, a formerly run-down 26-block area where Victorian and late nineteenthcentury buildings have been restored and converted into retail and dining establishments, galleries, and lofts. This revitalization was spurred by the 1995 completion of Coors Field, the new home of the Colorado Rockies baseball team, which brought crowds into the area and motivated entrepreneurs to develop it. Today the district is home to
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Denver
The majestic Rocky Mountains border Denver’s skyline. (Denver Metro Convention & Visitors Bureau)
more than 40 art galleries, 80 sports bars, and numerous shops and restaurants. To the northwest lies South Platte Valley, located on land reclaimed from a floodplain. It is home to an amusement park, a world-class aquarium, a children’s museum, and the new Pepsi Center sports arena. In addition to the existing downtown districts, a new area called Commons Park is being planned northwest of Union Station, as well as further development in the Golden Triangle south of Civic Center Park.
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The metropolitan area spreads out in all directions from downtown Denver. To the north are the residential suburbs of Arvada, Northglenn, Westminster, and Thornton; Aurora is situated to the east; the western suburbs include Golden, Lakewood, and Wheat Ridge; and the southern suburbs include Cherry Hills, Greenwood Villages, Littleton, and Englewood. 6
History
Permanent settlement of Denver began in 1858 when gold was discovered in small deposits along the South Platte River, near its junction with Cherry Creek. The area attracted pros-
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Denver pectors disappointed with the yields at Pike’s Peak, as well as gold-seekers newly arrived from the East. By 1867, Denver (named for an early territorial governor, James Denver) had been designated as a territorial capital. The city’s early years were marked by misfortunes that included two major fires, flooding, Indian attacks, and invasion by Confederate forces from Texas during the Civil War (1861–65). Denver also acquired a rather unsavory reputation as new gold discoveries drew a variety of colorful characters to the growing boomtown. However, by 1880, as gold discoveries were waning, gold was replaced by silver as the area’s primary source of wealth, and Denver’s growth accelerated. The city rebounded from a depression caused by a drop in silver prices in 1893 to become a bustling cosmopolitan center by the late nineteenth century, graced by parks, statues, mansions, and such landmarks as the Tabor Opera House, built by silver baron Horace Tabor. Approximately 30,000 trees were planted along the city’s boulevards, and 20,000 acres of land were acquired for its mountain park system. Denver’s rapid development and newfound sophistication led to the nickname “Queen City of the Plains.” In the early twentieth century, infrastructure improvements continued, and in 1928, with the opening of the Moffat Tunnel through the Rocky Mountains, the railroad provided a direct connection to the West Coast, spurring additional growth. (The transcontinental line of the Union Pacific
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Railroad had bypassed Colorado in the nineteenth century, but Denver built a rail line to meet the Union Pacific at Cheyenne, Wyoming.) With a direct link to the West, Denver became a hub for the nation’s rail lines and growing highway system. By World War II, the establishment of government agencies including the U.S. Mint and the Bureau of Land Management helped spur a new surge in population, which continued through the 1950s, as the city’s climate and recreational opportunities sparked a building boom. Movement to the suburbs resulted in a drop in population in the 1960s, and the energy crisis of the 1970s also slowed the city’s growth. However, urban renewal and a new construction boom, beginning in the late 1970s and continuing through the 1980s and 1990s, have changed the face of the city, giving it a modern, vibrant downtown with 16 skyscrapers constructed during the last decade alone. Denver’s downtown is now the nation’s tenth largest, and its population is double what it was in 1960. Major improvements continued in the 1990s with the construction of Coors Field, one of the country’s top baseball stadiums, and the large, modern Denver International Airport, both of which opened in 1995. The city continues to grow and modernize, with major development planned for the Commons Park area northwest of Union Station—including a series of pedestrian bridges over the South Platte River—and further development in the Golden Triangle district south of Civic Center Park. A major
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Denver enlargement of the city’s convention center is planned as well. 7
Government
Denver’s government administers both the city and county of Denver under a strong mayor, elected to a fouryear term, and a council whose 13 members are also elected for four years. 8
Public Safety
Denver is known for its clean, safe downtown area. The Denver Police Department, whose operations are organized into six districts, is the largest in the state of Colorado. In 1995, Denver police received reports of 861 violent crimes per 100,000 population, including 16 murders, 63 rapes, and 279 robberies. Property crimes reported numbered 6,012 and included 1,465 burglaries and 1,036 motor vehicle thefts. 9
Economy
After taking steps in the 1980s to reduce its dependence on the energy sector by diversification, Denver has thrived in the 1990s as a center for commerce and finance, a transportation hub, and a manufacturing center. It is home to major companies in fields including telecommunications and air transport as well as numerous government agencies and is also the major research center for alternative energy sources between the east and west coasts.
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The city has a well-educated work force and a low unemployment rate. Its standard of living is above the national average, and housing and health care costs are high (although utility costs and commercial lease rates are low compared to other parts of the country). The service sector employs the greatest number of people, followed by wholesale and retail trade, government, manufacturing, transportation and public utilities, and financial services. Goods manufactured in the Denver area include mining and farm machinery, fabricated metals, chemicals, scientific instruments, transportation equipment, rubber goods, feed and flour, luggage, and western clothing. 10
Environment
In spite of its association with the Rocky Mountains, Denver is actually built on a high plain and is one of the flattest cities in the United States. The two outstanding features of Denver’s environment are its proximity to the mountains and its altitude. The most prominent peak visible from the city is Mount Evans, at 4,346 meters (14,260 feet). On clear days, Pike’s Peak (97 kilometers/60 miles to the south) and Long’s Peak (80 kilometers/50 miles northwest) can also be seen. Denver’s altitude, which averages 1.6 kilometers (one mile) above sea level, ensures its residents a low level of air pollution and skies that appear bluer (also due to lower levels of water vapor). Water in Denver boils at 112°C (202°F) rather than the standard 118°C
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Denver (212°F), making a challenge out of cooking, or even brewing a good cup of coffee. On the other hand, the altitude lends itself to beer brewing, for which the city is famous.
United States, and the chain of multistory Gart Brothers sporting goods stores.
Denver also receives nearly 25 percent more ultraviolet radiation than cities at sea level, making it important for its residents to receive adequate protection from the sun.
According to the U.S. Census Bureau, the Denver metropolitan area ranks first in the United States in terms of education, with the highest percentage of both high school and college graduates (92 percent and 35 percent respectively, compared to national averages of 82 percent and 23 percent).
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Shopping
Downtown Denver’s premier shopping venue is the 16th Street Mall, a lively and crowded mile-long pedestrian thoroughfare that is home to a wide variety of retail outlets. Most recently, it was expanded to include Denver Pavilions, a retail and entertainment complex that opened in the fall of 1998 and includes a Virgin Records Megastore, a Hard Rock Cafe, and a Barnes and Noble Superstore. The Tabor Center, at one end of the mall, is the locale for upscale retailers such as Brooks Brothers. Other downtown malls include Larimer Square, Writer Square, and Cherry Creek Mall, home to exclusive stores including Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman-Marcus, and Abercrombie and Fitch. The recently opened Park Meadows shopping complex, which includes Nordstrom, Dillard’s, and Foley’s, was designed to resemble a ski lodge and boasts a huge fireplace at the center of its main court. Notable Denver retailers include the three-story Tattered Cover Bookstore, which stakes a claim to be the largest independent bookstore in the
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
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Education
The Denver County School District operates 118 schools. In the fall of 1996, 66,331 students were enrolled in the system, which employed 3,198 classroom teachers and 7,117 staff personnel. The Denver metropolitan area is home to 14 four-year colleges, including the University of Denver, the University of Colorado at Denver, and Metropolitan State University. There are also eight two-year and community colleges and over 90 technical and vocational schools in the area, as well as the nontraditional Denver Free University. 13
Health Care
Denver’s fresh mountain air has long given it a reputation as a healthy place to live or spend time. The traditional association between mountains and the treatment of lung disorders provided the initial impetus for the founding of the National Jewish Hospital, today an internationally acclaimed center for research in and treatment of
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Denver respiratory diseases as well as allergic and immunological problems. In the 1990s Denver acquired a new claim to fame as a healthy place when a nationwide survey found that its residents are, on average, the thinnest in the United States, with fewer than 20 percent suffering from obesity, as compared with the national average of 50 percent. This finding has been attributed to the active lifestyle encouraged by the city’s weather and location. Considered the premier medical center of the Rocky Mountain region, Denver boasts over 20 major hospitals known for their research and treatment facilities, including Denver General Hospital, University of Colorado Health Sciences Center, AMC Cancer Research Center, Rose Medical Center, Colorado Psychiatric Hospital, and Fitzsimmons Army Medical Center. 14
Media
Denver has two major daily newspapers, both published in the morning. Known for its in-depth reporting and quality columns, The Denver Post is widely regarded as Colorado’s top newspaper, as well as one of the best in the western part of the country. In the fall of 1998 it had a weekday circulation of 341,554 and a Sunday circulation of 484,657. The Denver Rocky Mountain News is older and more conservative than the Post. Founded in 1859, it is Colorado’s oldest newspaper. Its fall 1998 circulation was 331,978 weekdays and 432,931 on Sunday.
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Westword is Denver’s lively and sometimes controversial news and arts weekly. It is especially known for its comprehensive entertainment listings and its annual “Best of Denver” survey, published in June, which rates restaurants and a wide variety of other businesses and services. The Denver Business Journal is a business weekly, and numerous smaller neighborhood weeklies are published as well. Periodicals covering the Denver area include Colorado Country Life, Colorado Outdoors, Colorado Legionnaire, Colorado Rancher, and Farmer. The three major commercial networks and public television have affiliates in Denver, which has a total of nine major television stations as well as cable channels. Broadcasts by more than 45 AM and FM radio stations are received in the city and surrounding area. 15
Sports
Thanks to its pro sports facilities and opportunities for participant sports, Denver was named “Best Sports City” by The Sporting News in 1997. With major league teams in all professional sports, Denver has seen the approval and/or completion of three new major sports venues in the 1990s. Coors Field, the home of baseball’s National League Colorado Rockies (which began playing in Denver in 1993 in Mile High Stadium), opened in 1995 and hosted the all-star game in 1998. Acclaimed as one of the nation’s top new ball fields, it has also been the
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Denver
Coors Field, the new home of the Colorado Rockies baseball team, was completed in 1995. (Denver Metro Convention & Visitors Bureau)
Parks and Recreation
centerpiece for the transformation of the LoDo (lower downtown) area.
16
The 20,000-seat Pepsi Center, which opened in the fall of 1999, is the new home of the Denver Nuggets of the National Basketball Association and the National Hockey League’s Colorado Avalanche, which won the 1996 Stanley Cup. A new $360 million football stadium to be built adjacent to the old Mile High Stadium is slated for completion in 2001 when it will become the home of Denver’s 1998 and 1999 Super Bowl champions, the Denver Broncos.
Public land open to all types of recreation accounts for roughly half the state of Colorado, which is home to two national parks, 11 national forests, 30 state parks, and three national recreation areas. Nearly 100 hiking, cycling, horseback riding, and ski trails operated by the Colorado State Trails Program pass through the Denver metropolitan area. The metro area also boasts over 200 parks with facilities for activities including picnicking, cycling, tennis, and swimming. Popular and accessible
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Denver ing. The high-profile ski resorts of Vail, Aspen, and Breckenridge are easily accessible from the city, as well as lesser-known facilities that also offer world-class skiing, such as Arapahoe Basin. Between December and April, the Ski Train carries passengers from Union Station to Winter Park Ski Resort via the Moffat Tunnel through the mountains for a weekend of skiing. Bicycling is one of the most popular recreational activities in Denver, which has more than 724 kilometers (450 miles) of paved bicycle paths, including two that wind through the downtown area along the South Platte River and Cherry Creek. Another major outdoor activity is golfing, and there are more than 70 golf courses in Denver, as well as over 143 public tennis courts. Punting (riding in a boat resembling a gondola) is available on Cherry Creek. Not only does Denver’s prime location near the Rockies provide unlimited recreational activity, but the city also boasts over 200 parks, including the popular Botanic Gardens. (Denver Metro Convention & Visitors Bureau)
parks include City Park (also the location of the Denver Zoo and the Natural History Museum), Denver Botanic Gardens, Bear Creek Lake State Park, Cherry Creek Lake State Recreation Area, and Chatfield Lake State Recreation Area. Denver’s location near the Rocky Mountains makes skiing a prime recreational activity; numerous slopes can be reached in less than two hours of driv-
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Elitch Gardens and Amusement Park, which moved to a new site near Coors Field in 1995, offers 32 rides (including whitewater rafting), miniature golf, and other attractions. Lakeside Amusement Park is located just west of the city. 17
Performing Arts
With a total seating capacity of 10,800, the Denver Performing Arts Complex, home to the Denver Symphony Orchestra, the Colorado Ballet, and the Denver Theater Company, is the nation’s second-largest performing arts complex, surpassed only by Lincoln Center in New York City. The center’s
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Denver facilities, which occupy four city blocks, include the Auditorium Theatre, Boettcher Concert Hall (the nation’s first symphony-hall-in-the-round), and the Temple Buell Theater (a 2,800-seat venue for Broadway theater productions), as well as the world’s first laboratory for the study of the human voice. The Denver Center Theater Company, which is the leading repertory theater in the West, won the 1998 Tony award for best regional theater. The troupe produces 12 plays every season, on four different stages. The Changing Scene Theater supports up-and-coming talent by producing only world premieres. Since 1968, some 300 productions have been staged at the 76-seat facility, and some have gone on to successful runs in New York, Los Angeles, and other cities. The theater has won grant support from such sources as the National Endowment for the Arts and the Rockefeller Foundation. Besides the Performing Arts Complex, Denver has some 30 other theaters, as well as over 100 movie houses. The Lower Downtown area (LoDo) has become a thriving center for popular entertainment, including jazz, comedy, and dance. 18
Libraries and Museums
The Denver Public Library operates a central library downtown and 22 neighborhood branches. With a total of 1,882,487 book and government docu-
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
ment volumes and over five million items altogether, the library serves a population of over half a million and employs a staff of 453. Its special collections cover subject areas including Western history, fine printing, mountaineering, aeronautics, Napoleon, and folk music. The main library is housed in a new $64 million building completed in 1995. Its interior includes a three-story atrium, and the Western History Room has a rotunda that measures 24 meters (80 feet) in diameter and affords an outstanding view of the Rocky Mountains. Denver is home to a variety of museums, with collections in areas ranging from art to history to horticulture. The Denver Art Museum houses the world’s premier collection of American Indian art, including artworks from all tribes. The facility, which celebrated its one-hundredth anniversary in 1993, is the largest art museum between Kansas City and the West Coast. Many of its holdings are exhibited in a way that highlights connections between different cultures and societies. The Black American West Museum and Heritage Center explores the role African Americans played in settling the West. Other museums with Western themes are Buffalo Bill’s Grave and Museum, the Colorado History Museum, and the Museum of Western Art, which features works by artists including Georgia O’Keefe (1887–1986) and Frederic Remington(1861–1909). The Molly Brown House and Museum celebrates the life of this early feminist and heroine of the Titanic disaster. The museum is housed
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Denver in a restored Victorian mansion that Brown purchased with her husband in 1894. The Denver Museum of Natural History is the nation’s fourth-largest natural history museum and displays 80 dioramas portraying animals from all over the world. It also has a notable dinosaur collection, a planetarium, and an IMAX theater. The Children’s Museum of Denver is an interactive museum that offers a wide array of activities, including a computer lab and a grocery store. Denver’s other museums include the Museo de las Americas (which focuses on Latin American history and culture), the Forney Transportation Museum, and the Mizel Museum of Judaica. More than ten billion coins are struck at the U.S. Mint every year, and the basement has the second-largest storehouse of gold bullion in the nation after Fort Knox. The U.S. Mint has several public displays, including a real gold bar, and offers 30-minute tours that describe the coin-production process.
ballroom. Altogether, 29,000 hotel rooms.
Denver
has
In late 1999 Denver voters approved a construction project that will double the size of the Colorado Convention Center by 2003, adding new exhibit and meeting space, a new ballroom, a new 5,000-seat auditorium, and a parking garage. The expansion will make the convention center the sixth largest west of the Mississippi and the fifteenth largest in the country. Plans were also announced for major hotel expansion, with a 1,100room Marriott hotel to be built across the street from the convention center and a new 659-room Hilton hotel to go up at the site of the Denver Executive Tower Hotel. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Denver Boat Show National Western Stock Show & Rodeo Blossoms of Lights Winterfest Weekends
FEBRUARY Denver Auto Show
19
To u r i s m
After an economic slowdown in the late 1980s, Denver had its highest hotel occupancy rate in eight years in 1997. The city has 5,200 hotel rooms within walking distance of the $125 million Colorado Convention Center. Opened in June 1990, the convention center has 9,300 square meters (100,000 square feet) of meeting space and a 3,255 square-meter (35,000 square-foot)
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FEBRUARY-MARCH Buffalo Bill’s Birthday Celebration
MARCH Denver March Pow Wow St. Patrick’s Day Parade
APRIL Rocky Mountain Children’s Book Festival
JUNE Bethesda Dutch Festival Capitol Hill People’s Fair Cherry Blossom Festival Greek Festival
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Denver International Buskerfest Juneteenth Festival
JUNE-AUGUST Renaissance Festival Summer Nights
JULY Cherry Creek Arts Festival Colorado Indian Market & Western Art Roundup Independence Day Celebration Winter Park Jazz Festival
JULY-AUGUST Theater in the Park
AUGUST-SEPTEMBER
Bandleader Paul Whiteman (1890– 1967). Former U.S. Senator Alan K. Simpson (b. 1931). Actors Ward Bond (1903–1960), Douglas Fairbanks, Sr. (1883–1939), and Pat Hingle (b. 1923). Actress Barbara Rush (b. 1927). Comedian and actor Tim Allen (b. 1953).
Colorado State Fair
SEPTEMBER Festival of Mountain & Plain: A Taste of Colorado
22
OCTOBER
Websites
Boo at the Zoo Colorado Performing Arts Festival Denver International Film Festival Great American Beer Festival Oktoberfest Spirits of the Past
NOVEMBER Rocky Mountain Book Festival
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER Radio City Christmas Spectacular World’s Largest Christmas Lighting Display Winterfest Weekends
DECEMBER First Night Colorado Parade of Lights Wild Lights Blossoms of Lights
Famous Citizens
For Further Study
Denver City Net. [Online] Available http:// city.net/countries/united_states/colorado/ denver (accessed November 29, 1999). Denver City Pages. [Online] Available http:// denver.thelinks.com/ (accessed November 29, 1999). Denver Metro Convention and Visitors Bureau site. [Online] Available http:// www.denver.rog/media/releases (accessed November 29, 1999). Denver Online. [Online] Available http:// www.denveronline.com (accessed November 29, 1999).
Government Offices Denver City Hall 1437 Bannock St. Denver, CO 80202 (303) 640–5555
Famous natives and residents of Denver include:
Denver County 1437Bannock St. Denver, CO 80202 (303) 640–2628
Feminist and Titanic heroine (“the unsinkable”) Molly Brown (1867– 1932).
Mayor’s Office 1437 Bannock St., Rm. 350 Denver, CO 80202 (303) 640–2721
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Denver Tourist and Convention Bureaus Colorado Convention Center 700 14th St. Denver, CO 80202 (303) 640–8799 Denver Metro Convention & Visitors Bureau 1555 California St., Suite 300 Denver, CO 80202 (303) 892–1112
Publications Denver Business Journal 1700 Broadway Denver, CO 80290 Denver Post 1560 Broadway Denver, CO 80202 Rocky Mountain News 400 W. Colfax Ave. Denver, CO 80204
Books Alley, Jean, and Hartley Alley. Colorado Cycling Guide. Boulder: Pruett Publishing, 1990.
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Caruso, Laura, and Robert Ebisch. 1st ed. The Insiders' Guide to Denver. Boulder: Boulder Publishing Co. ,1997. Denver: A Picture Book to Remember Her By. New York: Crescent Books, 1987. Green, Stewart M. Walking Denver. Helena, MT: Falcon Pub., 1998. Halls, Kelly Milner. Kids Go! Denver: A FunPacked, Fact-Filled, Travel and Activity Book. Santa Fe, NM: John Muir Publications, 1996. Hornby, William H. Voice of Empire : A Centennial Sketch of The Denver Post. Denver: Colorado Historical Society, 1992. Iversen, Kristen. Molly Brown: Unraveling the Myth. Foreword by Muffet Brown. Boulder: Johnson Books, 1999. Leonard, Stephen, and Thomas J. Noel. Denver: Mining Camp to Metropolis. 1st ed. Niwot, CO: University Press of Colorado, 1990. Ludmer, Larry. Colorado Guide. New York: Open Road Publishing, 1998. Mar, M. Elaine. Paper Daughter: A Memoir. 1st ed. New York: HarperCollins, 1999. Noel, Thomas J. Denver Landmarks and Historic District: A Pictorial Guide. Niwot, CO: University Press of Colorado, 1996.
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Glossary ABOLITIONIST: Person or organization that opposes slavery. When slavery was legal, abolitionists fought to have laws created to make keeping slaves illegal. ADMINISTRATION: Government officials and the policies by which they govern. AIR POLLUTION: Harmful chemicals discharged into the air, making it unclean and sometimes unsafe. ALLIES: Groups or persons who are united in a common purpose. Typically used to describe nations that have joined together to fight a common enemy in war. In World War I, the term Allies described the nations that fought against Germany and its allies. In World War II, Allies described the United Kingdom, United States, the USSR and their allies, who fought against the Axis Powers of Germany, Italy, and Japan. AMALGAM: A mixture of different things. ANCHORAGE: Settling or staying in place by means of holding on to something. ANNEXATION: The act of adding on a smaller thing to a larger thing. ANNUAL MEAN TEMPERATURE: The temperature that falls at the middle of the range of high and low temperatures for the entire year. ANTI-SEMITISM: Fear or hatred of Jews. APARTHEID: The past governmental policy in the Republic of South Africa of separating the races in society. ARCHAEOLOGICAL REMAINS: Relics and artifacts left by past cultures. BOROUGH: District or large section of a city, especially New York, New York. BUDDHISM: A religious system common in India and eastern Asia. Founded by and based upon the teachings of Siddhartha Gautama, Buddhism asserts that suffering is an inescapable part of life. Deliverance can only be achieved through the practice of charity, temperance, justice, honesty, and truth. CABARET: A restaurant or nightclub with short musical performances with singing and dancing as entertainment. CADENCE: Any rhythmic flow of sound or measured movement to a rhythm or beat. CANTON: A territory or small division or state within a country. COMMUNISM: A form of government whose system requires common ownership of property for the use of all citizens. All profits are to be equally dis-
tributed and prices on goods and services are usually set by the state. Also, communism refers directly to the official doctrine of the former U.S.S.R. COSMOPOLITAN: Containing elements of all or many parts of the world. COUT D’ÉTAT OR COUP: A sudden, violent overthrow of a government or its leader. CULTURE: The ideas and typical habits of a group of people. DAILY CIRCULATION: Number of newspapers or other publications that are distributed each day. DIALECT: One of a number of regional or related modes of speech regarded as descending from a common origin. DIVERSITY: Variety; a mixture of different or dissimilar elements, items, or people. ENDEMIC: Anything that is peculiar to and characteristic of a locality or region. ENTREPRENEUR: Someone who starts and operates a small business. ETHNIC: Referring to a group of people with the same cultural heritage. FEDERAL: Pertaining to a union of states whose governments are subordinate to a central government. FEZ: A cone-shaped felt hat with no brim and a flat top, from which a long tassel hangs; the national headdress for men in Turkey. FUNICULAR: Hanging from or worked by pulling up and lowering of ropes or cables. GLOBAL ECONOMY: Relating to the economic situation (management of wealth and resources) of the whole world as a single community. GOLD RUSH: Describes people traveling in a hurry to a place where gold was discovered. GREENWICH MEAN TIME (GMT): Mean solar time of the meridian at Greenwich, England, used as the basis for standard time throughout most of the world. The world is divided into 24 time zones, and all are related to the prime, or Greenwich mean, zone. GROSS DOMESTIC PRODUCT (GDP): A measure of the market value of all goods and services produced within the boundaries of a nation, regardless of asset ownership. Unlike gross national product, GDP excludes receipts from that nation’s business operations in foreign countries. GROSS NATIONAL PRODUCT (GNP): A measure of the market value of goods and services produced by the labor and property of a nation. Includes receipts from that nation’s business operation in foreign countries
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GLOSSARY HERESY: An opinion believed to contradict a basic
NATIONALIST: Person or government policy that
law of a religion. INDIGENOUS: People, plants, and animals that lived in a place from ancient times. Also called native people, plants, and animals. INHABITED: Lived in. INQUISITION: A general tribunal, or court, established in the thirteenth century for the discovery and suppression of heresy and the punishment of those who were guilty of heresy (called heretics). ISLAM: The religious system of Mohammed, practiced by Muslims and based on a belief in Allah as the supreme being and Muhammad as his prophet. The spelling variations, Moslim and Mohammed, are also used. Islam also refers to those nations in which it is the primary religion. LABYRINTHINE: Curving in an intricate or confusing pattern; curvy, like a snake. MAGNATE: Important person, or person with special influence. MELANESIAN: The native or original inhabitants of islands in the Pacific Ocean south of the equator, including the Fiji Islands. METRO: Short form of metropolitan, usually used with a city name. For example, metro Detroit describes the city of Detroit and its surrounding area. METROPOLIS: Large city or center of population. METROPOLITAN: Term used to describe a city and its area of influence. For example, “metropolitan Detroit” refers to the city of Detroit and its surrounding area.
puts the needs and interests of the country first over the needs and interests of the other countries or international groups. PER CAPITA: Literally, per person; for each person counted. PHILANTHROPIST: Person who gives large sums of his or her own money to benefit community organizations or institutions. POLYNESIAN: The native or original inhabitants of islands in the Pacific Ocean, including Hawaii, Samoa, Tonga, Tahiti, and New Zealand. PRE-COLUMBIAN: Refers to the time in the history of North and South America before the arrival of Europeans (before 1492). Named for the first European to reach the Western hemisphere, Christopher Columbus. PROGRESSIVE: Person or government that is open to new ideas and willing to move forward or change habits or practices. PROTESTANT: A member or an adherent of one of those Christian bodies which descended from the Reformation of the sixteenth century. Originally applied to those who opposed or protested the Roman Catholic Church. ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH: The designation of the church of which the pope or Bishop of Rome is the head, and that holds him as the successor of St. Peter and heir of his spiritual authority, privileges, and gifts. RURAL: Describes landscape of the countryside, with large areas of open space and few roads and buildings covering the land. SOUTHEAST ASIA: The region in Asia that consists of the Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, the Philippines, Thailand, and Vietnam. SUBURB: Community on the edge of a large city where people live. People who live in a suburb usually travel to the city to work. SULTAN: A king of a Muslim (Islamic) state. TREATY: A negotiated agreement between two governments. URBAN: City landscape, with streets and buildings covering most of the area. VISIONARY: Person who can imagine positive changes and can explain the possible results to others. XENOPHOBIA: Fear or intense dislike of people from other places. ZENITH: The high point.
METROPOLITAN STATISTICAL AREA (MSA): Official term used by government agencies to define the city and its surrounding communities. The MSA describes the area included when gathering and reporting statistics. MILITARY COUP: A sudden, violent overthrow of a government by military forces. MILLENNIUM: 1,000 years. Also used to refer to the one-thousandth anniversary of an event. MISSIONARIES: People who travel to, and often live in, another area for the purpose of teaching the inhabitants there their religious beliefs. MOBILITY: The freedom and ability to move from one area or region to another. MOSQUE: An Islam place of worship and the organization with which it is connected. MUSLIM: Name used to describe people who observe the religious rules of Islam.
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Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of
World Cities
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of
World Cities VOLUME
2
Detroit, Michigan to Madrid, Spain
Edited by Jill Copolla and Susan Bevan Gall
J U N I O R WO R L D M A R K E N C Y C L O P E D I A O F W O R L D C I T I E S
U•X•L Staff Allison McNeill, U•X•L Senior Editor Carol DeKane Nagel, U•X•L Managing Editor Thomas L. Romig, U•X•L Publisher Dorothy Maki, Manufacturing Manager Evi Seoud, Assistant Production Manager Rita Wimberley, Senior Buyer Pamela A.E. Galbreath, Art Director This publication is a creative work copyrighted by U•X•L and fully protected by all applicable copyright laws, as well as by misappropriation, trade secret, unfair competition, and other applicable laws. The authors and editors of this work have added value to the underlying factual material herein through one or more of the following: unique and original selection, coordination, expression, arrangement, and classification of the information. All rights to this publication will be vigorously defended. Copyright © 2000 U•X•L An imprint of the Gale Group All rights reserved including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form.
Printed in United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Cover photos (top to bottom): Paris, France: Louvre (EPD/Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp) Monrovia, Liberia: Redemption Day Celebration (EPD/Homer Sykes; Woodfin Camp) Tokyo, Japan: Kids with skateboards (EPD/Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp) Lima, Peru: Market (EPD/Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp) Washington, DC: Lincoln Memorial (EPD/Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp)
Susan Bevan Gall and Jill Marie Coppola, Editors Timothy L. Gall, Executive Editor Mary Francis Sugar, Eleftherios E. Netos, Jennifer Wallace, James C. Woodring, Associate Editors Bridgette M. Nadzam, Graphics and Page Layout Gregory M. Hurst, Editorial Assistant Magellan Geographix, Cartographers
Contributors Olufemi A. Akinola, Ph.D. W.E.B. DuBois Institute, Harvard University Cynthia Andrews. Researcher/Writer, Suttons Bay, Michigan Mike Cikraji. Researcher/Writer, Bay Village, Ohio Patricia Hale. Researcher/Writer, West Hartford, Connecticut Bruce Heilman. University of Dar es Salaam, Tanzania Jim Henry. Researcher/Writer, Chicago, Illinois William Hodgson. Researcher/Writer, Vancouver, British Columbia Dave Hribar. Researcher/Writer, Avon Lake, Ohio Ignacio Lobos. Journalist, Honolulu, Hawaii Deryck O. Lodrick, Ph.D. Visiting Scholar, Center for South Asian Studies, University of California, Berkeley Lupa Ramadhani. University of Dar es Salaam, Tanzania Gail Rosewater. Researcher/Writer, Cleveland, Ohio Carmen Urdaneta, M.A. Researcher/Writer, Boston, Massachusetts Jeffrey Vance. Researcher/Writer, Brighton, Massachusetts Rosalie Wieder. Researcher/Writer, Cleveland, Ohio Steven Wolinetz, Ph.D. Memorial University, St. John’s Newfoundland
CONTENTS C I T Y F I N D E R TA B L E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . viii R E A D E R ’S G U I D E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix DETROIT, MICHIGAN ............................................................... 1 H O N G K O N G , C H I N A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 H O N O L U L U , H A W A I I . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 H O U S T O N , TE X A S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 I N D I A N A P O L I S , I N D I A N A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 I S T A N B U L , TU R K E Y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 J E R U S A L E M , I S R A E L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 J O H A N N E S B U R G , S O U T H A F R I C A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 L A G O S , N I G E R I A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 L I M A , P E R U . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 L O N D O N , E N G L A N D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 L O S A N G E L E S , C A L I F O R N I A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 M A D R I D , S P A I N . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 G L O S S A R Y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
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C I T Y F I N D E R TA B L E Volume number appears in brackets []
Toronto, Ontario .......................[4]151 Vancouver, British Columbia......[4]169
Africa
Mexico
Cairo, Egypt .............................[1]115 Johannesburg, South Africa ......[2]123 Lagos, Nigeria ...........................[2]139 Monrovia, Liberia........................[3]69 Nairobi, Kenya ..........................[3]115
Mexico City, Mexico....................[3]19
United States Atlanta, Georgia ...........................[1]1 Boston, Massachusetts .................[1]65 Chicago, Illinois ........................[1]145 Cleveland, Ohio ........................[1]161 Dallas, Texas .............................[1]177 Denver, Colorado.......................[1]191 Detroit, Michigan ..........................[2]1 Honolulu, Hawaii ........................[2]39 Houston, Texas ............................[2]57 Indianapolis, Indiana ..................[2]77 Los Angeles, California ..............[2]189 Miami, Florida.............................[3]37 Minneapolis, Minnesota .............[3]53 Nashville, Tennessee ..................[3]137 New Orleans, Louisiana.............[3]153 New York, New York ................[3]173 Phoenix, Arizona .........................[4]19 Philadelphia, Pennsylvania .............[4]1 San Francisco, California .............[4]85 Seattle, Washington....................[4]101 Washington, D.C..........................[4]18
Asia Bangkok, Thailand ......................[1]17 Beijing, China ..............................[1]33 Hong Kong, China.......................[2]21 Istanbul, Turkey ..........................[2]93 Jerusalem, Israel.........................[2]107 Manila, Philippines .......................[3]1 Mumbai (Bombay), India.............[3]99 Sydney, Australia .......................[4]117 Tokyo, Japan ............................[4]133
Europe Berlin, Germany...........................[1]49 Brussels, Belgium ........................[1]83 Istanbul, Turkey...........................[2]93 London, United Kingdom .........[2]169 Madrid, Spain ...........................[2]205 Paris, France ..............................[3]195 Prague, Czech Republic ...............[4]35 Rome, Italy ..................................[4]63
South America Buenos Aires, Argentina...............[1]97 Caracas, Venezuela ...................[1]131 Lima, Peru ................................[2]155 Rio de Janeiro, Brazil ..................[4]49
North America Canada Montréal, Québec .......................[3]83
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R E A D E R ’S G U I D E this Reader’s Guide, all of whom offered substantive insights that were instrumental to the creation of this work. The editors are extremely grateful for the time and effort these distinguished reviewers devoted to improving the quality of this work. Sixteen researchers, many of whom live in the city they profiled, are listed on the staff page. Their well-researched profiles give users of Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities an opportunity to compare the history and contemporary life in 50 of the world’s greatest cities—from the ancient cities of Cairo, Egypt and Istanbul, Turkey, to the fast-growing modern metropolitan communities of Lagos, Nigeria; Sydney, Australia; and Seattle, Washington.
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities presents profiles of 50 major cities from around the world, arranged alphabetically in four volumes. Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities is a new reference work organized under the Worldmark design. The Worldmark design assembles facts and data about each city in a common structure. Every profile contains a map, showing the city and its location. The challenging task of selecting the cities to be profiled in this first edition of Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities was accomplished with input from librarian advisors. From a list of over 100 candidate cities, 50 were selected to represent the continents and cultures of the world, with an emphasis on cities of the United States. Twenty-five cities from North America (including 21 U.S. cities) are profiled, 9 cities from Asia, 7 cities from Europe, 5 cities from Africa, and 4 from South America fill the four volumes. Profiles present text and graphical elements, including photographs, with the needs and interests of student researchers in mind. Recognition must be given to the many tourist bureaus, convention centers, city government press offices, and graphic agencies that contributed the data and photographs that comprise this encyclopedia. This edition also benefits from the work of the reviewers listed at the end of
Sources Due to the broad scope of this encyclopedia many sources were consulted in compiling the information and statistics presented in these volumes. Of primary importance were the official web sites posted by many of the cities’ government offices and tourist/convention bureaus on the World Wide Web. Also instrumental in the development of this publication was the web site of the U.S. Bureau of the Census, available at http://www.census.gov/. Finally, many fact sheets, booklets, and statistical abstracts were used to update
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READER’S GUIDE data not collected by federal or city governments. Profile Features The structure of the Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities entries—22 numbered headings—allows students to compare two or more cities in a variety of ways. Each city profile begins with the city name, state or province (where applicable), country, and continent. A city fact box provides information including dates founded and incorporated, city location, official city motto and flower, time zone, ethnic composition, city elevation, latitude and longitude, coastline (where applicable), climate information, annual mean temperature, seasonal average snowfall (where applicable), average annual precipitation, form of government, system of weights and measures used, monetary units, telephone area codes, and city postal codes. Where available, a picture of both the city seal and the city flag, with description, appear. With regard to the time zone, the standard time is given by time zone in relation to Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). The world is divided into 24 time zones, each one hour apart. The Greenwich meridian, which is 0 degrees, passes through Greenwich, England, a suburb of London. Greenwich is at the center of the initial time zone, known as Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). All times given are converted from noon in this zone. The time reported for the city is the official time zone. Also provided in each article is a Population Profile box comparing the city proper with its greater metropolitan
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area, including suburbs (where available), and lists facts such as population, racial breakdown, and nicknames. Profiles also include a City Fact Comparison box, comparing daily costs of visiting the city with costs for visiting representative cities elsewhere in the world (Cairo, Egypt; Rome, Italy; and Beijing, China). City maps, locator maps, and photos complement the entries. The body of each city’s profile is arranged in 22 numbered headings as follows: 1
INTRODUCTION. The city’s location
is described. City features are outlined, sometimes citing key facts from city history and major attractions. 2
GETTING THERE. Information is pro-
vided on major highways offering access into and around the city, as well as information on bus and railroad service, airports, and shipping. 3
GETTING AROUND. Information is
outlined on means of transportation within a city, including bus and commuter rail service; some entries include transportation modes that will be less familiar to many student researchers, such as the three-wheeled tuk-tuk of Bangkok, Thailand. Both commuter and sightseeing transportation methods are included. 4
PEOPLE. A population count is pro-
vided for the city proper and its metropolitan area, along with an ethnic/racial breakdown of the populace. For many cities, population growth patterns, languages, and religions are also discussed 5 NEIGHBORHOODS. Location, characteristics, and attractions of city historic
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
READER’S GUIDE and ethnic neighborhoods, and business and cultural districts are described. 6 HISTORY. City history is detailed from its founding to the present. 7
GOVERNMENT. Style of government
is described, and elected offices are listed, along with a description of each office and length of an elected term. 8 PUBLIC SAFETY. Police, fire, and ambulatory services are outlined, as well as any special city safety projects. Crime rate statistics are also listed. 9 ECONOMY. This section presents the key elements of the economy. Major industries and employment figures are also summarized.
Topography, climate, and flora and fauna are described, as well as any environmental concerns, programs, or clean-up efforts. 10
ENVIRONMENT.
11 SHOPPING. Popular shopping districts and venues are described, as well as any specialty items for which the city is renowned. 12 EDUCATION. Information about public education and key universities and technical institutes is detailed. 13 HEALTH CARE. Hospitals and other health services are described. Alternative or non-Western health care practices are described in some city profiles. 14
MEDIA. City newspapers, magazines,
television, and radio stations are listed. Where applicable, government influence on media is discussed.
15 SPORTS. Professional and amateur sports—from auto racing and rodeo to cricket and baseball—sports venues, and championships held are listed. Annual sporting events, major international tournaments, and popular recreational sports are also described. 16 PARKS AND RECREATION. Popular recreational activities and city pastimes, from strolling in a city park to playing polo, and the venues where they can be enjoyed, are detailed. 17 PERFORMING ARTS. Performing arts offered in the city are described, as well as the theaters and performing arts halls where they are offered. Notable annual events are listed. 18 LIBRARIES AND MUSEUMS. Notable libraries and descriptions of their holdings are described. Major museums, with information about their collections, are listed. 19
TOURISM. The importance of tourism
to the city is summarized, along with factors affecting the tourism industry. Key tourist attractions are listed. 20
HOLIDAYS AND FESTIVALS. Annu-
ally celebrated holidays and events are listed. 21
F A M O U S C I T I Z E N S . Famous peo-
ple who were born or lived in the city are listed, along with birth and death dates and short biographical descriptions. Bibliographic listings are provided at the end of each profile as a guide for accessing further information. Included are Web sites, 22
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
FOR
FURTHER
STUDY.
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READER’S GUIDE government offices, tourist and convention bureaus, major city publications, and books about the city and its history. Because some terms used in this encyclopedia will be new to students, each volume includes a glossary. A keyword index to all four volumes appears in Volume 4. Acknowledgments The editors are indebted to the following reviewers, without whom Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities would not have been possible. The individuals listed below were consulted on the content and structure of this encyclopedia. Their insights, opinions, and suggestions led to many enhancements and improvements in the presentation of the material. Ken Cornwell, Library Media Specialist, Northeast High School, Lincoln, Nebraska
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Cindy Doll, Librarian, Columbus Metropolitan Library, Columbus, Ohio Marilyn Eanes, School Library Media Specialist, Hopewell Middle School, Round Rock, Texas Jane Thomas, Library Manager, McNeil High School, Austin, Texas Glenda Willnerd, School Librarian, Lincoln High School, Lincoln, Nebraska Comments and Suggestions We welcome your comments on the Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities, as well as your suggestions for cities to be included in future editions. Please write: Editors, Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities, U•X•L, 27500 Drake Road, Farmington Hills, Michigan 48331– 3535; call toll-free: 1-800-877-4253; or send e-mail via www.galegroup.com.
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Detroit Detroit, Michigan, United States of America, North America Founded: 1701; Incorporated: 1802 (Village), 1815 (City) Location: Southeastern border of Michigan, where the Detroit River separates the United States and Canada. Because of a bend in the river, Detroit is directly north of Windsor, Ontario. Motto: “Resurget Cineribus” (It shall rise again from the ashes) and “Speramus Meliora” (We hope for better things) Flower: Apple Blossom (Pyrus coronaria) Time Zone: 7 AM Eastern Standard Time (EST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: White 21.6%, Black 75.7%, American Indian, Eskimo, Aleut 0.4%, Asian and Pacific Islander 0.8%, Other 1.5% (1990 Census) Elevation: 585 feet above sea level Coastline: Michigan has 3,288 miles of shoreline. Climate: Winters are cold; summers are hot and humid. Annual Mean Temperature: 48.6°F; January, 28.1°F; July 72.3°F Annual Precipitation: 30.97 in (787 mm) Government: Mayor-council Weights and Measures: Standard U.S. Monetary Unit: Standard U.S. Telephone Area Codes: 313, 810, 248, 734 Postal Codes: 48201–48240, 48242–48244
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Introduction
The metropolitan city of Detroit is a combination of old and new and often is associated with adjectives like dynamic, bustling, and progressive. A history peppered with ethnic richness grants Detroit an edge. It is a strong city, thriving with people, and a genuine delight for the senses. Art makes a statement—whether it is music from an area pub, aromas from street vendors, or vivid murals and architecture. Economically, Detroit has come a long way from the fur trapping days of French soldiers, traders, and missionaries. The vision of its founder, Antoine
de la Mothe Cadillac, was for this fort on the strait to grow into a thriving trade center. What he could not have known is that not only would the trading post succeed, but the settlement would eventually become the anchor of a tri-county area with more than four million culturally diverse people. 2
Getting There
Located in Southeastern Michigan, Detroit is the largest city in the state. It is a well-designed city. Transportation flows smoothly, like the spokes of the wheel it represents. The street signs are generally visible; entrance and exit ramps are clearly identified, and moni-
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Detroit Airports
Detroit Population Profile City Proper Population: 1,514,000 Area: 360.6 sq km (138.7 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 21.6% white;75.7% black; 0.4% American Indian, Eskimo, Aleut; 0.8%, Asian and Pacific Islander; 1.5% other Nicknames: Arsenal of Democracy, The Motor City, Motown
Metropolitan Area Population: 3,785,000 Description: City and suburbs in three-county area World population rank1: 66 Percentage of national population2: 1.4% Average yearly growth rate: 0.3% ——— 1. The Detroit metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the total US population living in the Detroit metropolitan area.
tored parking is available. None of this should be a surprise in the automobile capital of the world. Highways Served by several interstate highways and a number of additional limited-access expressways, Detroit’s freeway system, designed in the 1950s, is one of the most efficient in the country. Networks of six-lane freeways weave across city boundaries. Drivers can access the city from either north or south on Interstate-75 or US-10; east and westbound expressways include Interstates 696, 96, and 94.
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Detroit is also home to two major airports: Wayne County Metropolitan Airport and City Airport. Wayne County Airport is a regional center for Northwest Airlines and is the world’s 14th busiest airport. Located 29 kilometers (18 miles) southwest of downtown, it is a major international business and leisure travel hub with 1,200 scheduled departures and landings per day. Geographically, Detroit is about a 90minute or less flight to over 60 percent of the United States. A $1.6 billion expansion project that began in 1996 includes new construction and improvements to the three existing terminals. The scheduled project completion year is 2001. All major domestic airline carriers and three international carriers offer service from this locale. Detroit City Airport is located about 16 kilometers (ten miles) from downtown and offers both private and commercial passenger service. 3
Getting Around
The early 1900s found the first mile of concrete pavement in the United States on Woodward Avenue, and the tide of transportation has moved forward ever since. The main arteries that frame and connect the city include the famous avenues of Woodward, Jefferson, Michigan, Grand River, and Gratiot. One of the better-known boulevards is named after Rosa Parks, a civil rights activist who settled in Detroit. With industrial-
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Detroit
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Detroit ization exploding, the late 1920s found tunnel and bridge access, commencing with the opening of the Detroit-Windsor Tunnel and the Ambassador Bridge. Easy mobility has always been a priority for the city’s visionaries. Public transportation by taxi, bus, train, and trolley is readily available. Bus and Commuter Rail Service The Detroit Department of Transportation (DDOT) has distinctive green and yellow bus stations and runs a prompt schedule on a fixed route. Most routes operate during the day and evenings until 1 AM. The fare is $1.25; transfers are 25 cents. Tickets can be purchased at Comerica Bank branches. The Downtown Detroit Trolley operates authentic trolley cars, manufactured from 1895 through the 1920s, along Jefferson Avenue and Washington Boulevard, between the Renaissance Center and Grand Circus Park. Correct change is required for the 50cent fare. The People Mover is transportation by monorail on an elevated track that encompasses a three-mile radius. Another economic 50-cent fare allows a bird’s-eye view of the city. Normal business hours are Monday through Thursday, 7 AM–11 PM, Friday and Saturday until midnight, and Sunday until 8 PM. Token machines are at every station, but hours of operation may change. The buses for Suburban Mobility Authority for Regional Transportation (SMART), located at 660 Woodward Avenue, run a flexible agenda and vari-
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ous routes between Detroit and its surrounding suburbs to accommodate the lifestyles of its passengers. Whether heading to the office, shopping malls, or major attractions, SMART transports for $1.50 fare. Customer Service is open from 6:30 AM until 6 PM. Sightseeing A vacation means sights, sounds, and flavors. Visitors can have it all by sightseeing on foot. Enjoy a coney dog, a walk through Hart Plaza, and a visit to “The Fist,” Robert Graham’s 7-meter (24-foot) sculpture commemorating Detroit boxer Joe Louis at Woodward and Jefferson Avenue. Take a city bus down Woodward to the Campus Martius area and view the figure of “Emancipation," modeled after Sojourner Truth, the nineteenth-century abolitionist and feminist who is rumored to have lived in the area at the time. The outdoor plazas and sidewalks invite bicycles and roller blades, and summer months find the streets filled with people and activity. 4
People
Detroit is defined by its people. A culturally diverse population, the city’s character has been defined and redefined by wave after wave of immigrants from all over the world, many of whom arrived with hope for a new and better life. The reality, however, is that some ethnic minority groups and illegal immigrants are among the city’s less privileged people, living in deprived inner-city neighborhoods.
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Detroit
City Fact Comparison Detroit (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
3,785,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1701
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$109
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$44
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$26
$14
$15
$16
$155
$173
$246
$207
2
13
20
11
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
Total daily costs (hotel, meals, incidentals) Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
The Detroit Free Akhbar El Yom/ Press Al Akhbar 278,286
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1831
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
The latest figures indicate Detroit’s current population is approximately one million. Included in that figure is a spectrum of personalities. In 1834, the first Roman Catholic Bishop of the Detroit Diocese arrived, Bishop Frederick Rese. A century later, the city’s first policewoman was appointed; Gar Wood won the international prize for unlimited powerboat racing; and in 1937, Joe Louis emerged as the heavyweight boxing champion of the world. The early 1960s found newly elected Mayor Jerome P. Cavanaugh changing Detroit’s image. A favorite of the national press and Democratic administration in Washington, D.C., Mayor Cavanaugh
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aided Detroit on the road to racial peace. Shrewd political moves brought an acknowledged and successful administration to its peak. In response, federal assistance, in the amount of $360 million, began pouring into the city. Civil rights activist Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., debuted his “I Have a Dream" speech on the streets of Detroit in 1963. Currently, the professionals who reside or work in Detroit demonstrate community ideals. At a grass roots level, many citizens are involved in civic affairs, local sports, or social activities. With culture, education, and growing
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Detroit
Detroit lies directly north of Windsor, Ontario, separated by the Detroit River. (Dale Fisher; Metropolitan Detroit Convention & Visitors Bureau)
prosperity, employment is at an all time high. 5
Neighborhoods
Detroit neighborhoods are evolving. Mayor Albert Cobo began a slum clearance in the 1950s that led to private development of cleared lands. His administration had direct bearing upon future urban development. The 1960s endured public housing changes and a shocking crime wave that proved painful, indeed. But, Mayor Jerome P. Cavanaugh brought economic growth and prosperity to a formerly distressed city. In the 1970s Coleman Young promoted the city as a model of social
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progress. Today, median housing value is $69,260, and owner-occupied (single family) housing is approximately 70 percent, one of the highest in the country. Still prospering, the locals and immigrants who continue to migrate into the Detroit area keep the economic structure developing. Greektown is admirably well known, and metro Detroit has a significant Polish influence. The enclave city of Hamtramck is known for authentic cuisine, as well as a visit from Pope John Paul II in 1987. To the west, Dearborn is home to the largest Arabic community in the
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Detroit world outside the Middle East. On the east side, small Italian neighborhood markets have evolved into major building and manufacturing companies. Not far from historic Tiger Stadium is Mexicantown, where a growing number of Hispanic communities are flourishing. Oakland County is home to a steadily expanding number of Russian Jewish immigrants, while the Metropolitan Airport area and southern Wayne County are attracting Japanese families. Further south, along the Detroit River from Wyandotte to Grosse Ile, are communities rich in Hungarian and Polish traditions. Suitably, the distinct mix of people make metro Detroit a cosmopolitan map of the world. 6
History
Historically, the Civic Center in downtown Detroit started as a fur trading post and grew into a frontier military station. Cadillac Square was formed with 1-meter (3-foot) flagstones before it was paved, and the marketplace sold produce and goods, much like the Eastern Market today.
the American Flag was raised over Fort Pontchartrain. A devastating fire swept Detroit in 1805 that destroyed each one of its 200 structures and left only a stone warehouse standing. Following the War of 1812, the development of the steamboat, and the opening of the Erie Canal, Detroit began to experience dramatic growth again and finally was incorporated as a city in 1815. By the time Michigan was admitted to the Union as the twenty-sixth state in 1837, Detroit had become a significant station on the Underground Railroad. The Underground Railroad was a secret system that helped fugitive slaves reach freedom in the northern states and Canada. Eight years later, the city was honored to hold President Andrew Jackson’s funeral.
The city of Detroit was founded on July 24, 1701, by Antoine de la Mothe Cadillac. With a pledge of patriotism, he demonstrated community ideals and the courage to foster them.
With the dawning of the Industrial Age, new products surfaced, and the manufacture of stove and kitchen ranges became Detroit’s leading industry. Tastefully complimenting the ranges, additional consumable products emerged, like Vernors Ginger Ale, Stroh’s Beer, and the famous Sanders candy, cakes, and ice cream. Having all the goods, Detroit needed a place to promote their treats, and the Detroit Metro Convention and Visitors Bureau was born, the world’s first such organization.
In the middle 1700s, Detroit was turned over to the British as a spoil of the French and Indian War (1755– 1763), but by 1796, George Washington forced the British out of the city and
With the population rapidly multiplying, communities and businesses were prospering. Ford Motor Company was established, and the introduction of the assembly line revolutionized the
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Detroit auto industry. Detroit put America on wheels. The daily wage paid five dollars. The year was 1921, and the Detroit Times newspaper was purchased by William Randolph Hearst. Making headlines was nothing new to Detroit. The following decade brought with it the retirement of baseball’s great Ty Cobb, the grand opening of the Detroit Institute of Arts, and the unveiling of the Ambassador Bridge. The bridge connected Detroit to Canada and was hailed as the longest international suspension span in the world. Complementing the bridge, travelers could also gain international entry to Canada via the new Windsor Tunnel. Business for Detroit merchants boomed until the Great Depression, which temporarily slowed the city’s progress. But in the world of sports, there was no depression. Detroit teams were still making headlines. In 1935, the Tigers captured the World Series; the Lions were National Football League champions; and the Red Wings won hockey’s Stanley Cup. Detroit was riding high, and the world was still watching. In 1937, Mr. Joe Louis Barrow (Joe Lewis), the Brown Bomber, won the world’s heavyweight boxing championship. On the eve of World War II (1939–1945), Joe Louis was a good guy to have on your side. During World War II, Detroit played a key role as the nation’s “Arsenal of Democracy.” Economic growth during the mid 1940s placed Detroit at the forefront of the nation’s industrial fields, including salt products, electric
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refrigeration, seeds, adding machines, stove manufacturing, and of course, automobiles. In turn, the city engineers designed a massive freeway system to transport the fruits of the automobile industry. However, for progress there was a price. Many public housing units were destroyed in order to accommodate the planned freeway expansion. Public housing residents were evicted and offered no plan for relocation. The city of Detroit did not comply with the Federal Housing Act 048, which required alternative housing for dislocated renters. In effect, the city created 17,000 refugees and wide distrust for local government. Thereafter, the city’s middleincome population began to shift to more suburban locales, and the nation’s first shopping mall opened in Southfield in 1954. Northland Mall was the harbinger of the new suburban lifestyle. The following decade, Detroit recovered under Mayor Jerome P. Cavanaugh’s administration. The formerly distressed city became a model of social progress. In July 1963, Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., led a massive civil rights movement in Detroit; still, Detroit was not an island unto itself. The riots in July 1967 shattered the city like a terrifying earthquake. The shock was to prove painful, indeed. On the heels of freedom and turmoil, Berry Gordy created the Motown Sound and taught the nation—and indeed the world—a new way to sing. By the year’s end, New Detroit was founded.
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Detroit
The Henry Ford Museum chronicles a changing Detroit. (Mark J. Arpin; Metropolitan Detroit Convention & Visitors Bureau)
Billed as the United States’ first “urban coalition,” New Detroit organized to improve education, employment, housing, and economic
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development. With strong leadership and community support, New Detroit set a new pace for the city. Soon afterwards, business leaders founded Detroit
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Detroit Renaissance to help formulate the city’s economic future. In 1971, Henry Ford II, head of Detroit Renaissance, Inc., announced plans for the construction of the largest privately financed project in the world—The Renaissance Center. Celebrated in rebirth, Detroit’s renaissance was an attempt to protect the value of existing investments and future profit opportunities in the downtown hub. The city’s first black mayor, Coleman Young, took office in 1974 to build Detroit’s assets. Mayor Young sought to improve racial equality in city government and increase solidarity among African-American residents. He served an unprecedented five terms. With the 1980s, the revival continued. Detroit hosted the thirty-second Republican National Convention at the new Joe Louis Arena. The Millender Center and Greektown’s Trappers Alley Marketplace opened. Complementing new business, the Detroit People Mover provided another source of downtown transportation—a monorail. Expansion of the $225 million Cobo Conference/ Exhibition Center was completed, and sports enthusiasts were thrilled. Detroit hosted the first Grand Prix on the city streets, and Super Bowl XVI played to a sold out crowd at the Pontiac Silverdome. Sparky Anderson and the affable Detroit Tigers captured the 1984 World Series, and the Pistons secured consecutive NBA championship titles in 1989 and 1990. Metro Detroit’s prosperity continued in the 1990s. Chosen as a site for World Cup Soccer in 1994, the Silver-
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dome earned the unique opportunity to host the first indoor soccer championship in World Cup history. The American automobile industry and the Metropolitan Convention and Visitor’s Bureau celebrated their Centennial, and the decade ended with another blockbuster season in sports. The Detroit Red Wings won back-to-back National Hockey League Stanley Cup Championships and kept Lord Stanley’s cup for two years, 1997 and 1998. 7
Government
The Detroit city mayor and ninemember city council are elected members and serve a four-year term of office. The charter rules under a mayor-council form of government. Aided by a chief administrative staff, the mayor collaborates in the performance of duties. Citizen bureaus include organizations dedicated to improving and maintaining the business and civic community of Detroit; for example, Southeast Michigan Council of Governments (SEMCOG) is a voluntary association of more than 130 local governments designed as a regional planning and intergovernmental coordination agency. 8
Public Safety
As the city council conducts hearings for the new budget, commitment to improving public safety remains an important issue. Following the scandal with city police chief William Hart, who was convicted and sent to prison for stealing drug money, and accusa-
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Detroit tions of police racism, the city departments are undergoing a healthy purge and continually integrating means for securing new equipment and more recruits. Additional coalitions have formed, like the Detroit Economic Growth Corporation, dedicated to serving the disadvantaged. A public corporation endowed with the power to establish project areas where jobs are at stake, they acquire properties, issue taxes, and enjoy strong support from citizens in the community. 9
Economy
Detroit is well positioned to benefit from the trends currently shaping the nation. A tight labor market, combined with the area’s low unemployment rate of 2.8 percent, reflect the larger prosperity of the country. Welfare statistics have fallen to the lowest level since 1970, and city officials feel there are almost more jobs than can be filled, particularly in the field of engineering. Detroit has a large skilled labor force, which is supported by both industrial and public technical centers. Wayne State University, the University of Detroit-Mercy, and the Detroit College of Law are located in the region; technical and community colleges are numerous and include Henry Ford, Highland Park, and Wayne County Community Colleges, among others. The quality of life is very different from the image of living in a Rust-Belt city. Recreational activities, like golf, skiing, tennis, and sailing, abound in the
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region. Detroit is home to a renowned symphony, the renovated Opera Hall, several museums, major sports teams, and four-star dining establishments. The vibrant growing economy is shifting from sole reliance on the automotive industry to a diversified high-tech and commercial base. Recently named the largest metropolitan exporting center in the country, Detroit exports over $27 billion of industrial goods to countries around the globe. An increase in the available number of high-skilled jobs has made employee turnover an issue of concern. To entice commitment from employees, local employers are offering higher salaries, stock options, and training programs. In return, the managers are sharpening their listening and social skills, making Detroit the perfect vehicle for business success. Excellent transportation and communication links make it easy for multinationals to stay connected. Throughout the 1990s, the business climate improved dramatically as a result of state and city regulatory and administrative reforms aimed at attracting and retaining businesses; this includes a competitive tax system, which rewards new investment and profitable companies. A diversified marketplace, many of the world’s innovative companies are based in Detroit or its metropolitan area. Among others it is home to Better Made potato chips, Duraliner truck beds, Falcon golf clubs, Faygo beverages, Jiffy mixes, Kowalski sausage, Lionel trains, Sanders ice cream, Shedd’s spread, and Vlassic foods. Com-
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Detroit puware, the world’s eighth largest software company, is currently developing a massive, 130,060 square-meter (1.4 million square-foot) building and adjacent parking structure that accommodates 3,000 cars. Mexicantown Community Development Corporation has announced plans for an $8 million International Welcome Center and Mercado in Detroit’s Hispanic neighborhood. Free enterprise has always played a dominant role in Detroit’s economy, but recently some residents rejected the idea of building a casino. Prosperity in the Canadian casinos prompted a change of heart, and the Motor City skyline has shifted. Two new casinos, MGM Grand and Motor City opened in 1999. Atwater and Greek Town casinos were scheduled to open in 2000 on Detroit’s waterfront. The value of commercial real estate in the city is prime. The last vacant piece of Stroh River Place, a large brick structure within a historic mixed-use development along the Detroit River, will be converted into luxury loft condominiums. Earlier in the twentieth century, the 14,864 square-meter (160,000 square-foot) structure served as the headquarters for Parke Davis Pharmaceutical Company. The building will undergo a $15 million renovation and is the last building to be redeveloped by the Stroh Brewing Company. The complex, located south of East Jefferson, includes offices, loft apartments, stores, and restaurants. The lofts will be priced from $140,000 and are joined by several neighboring developments,
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including a $40 million headquarters for the United Auto Workers-General Motors (UAW-GM) Human Resource Center, expected to open in 2001. Finally, Detroit remains the U.S. headquarters for General Motors, Ford Motor Company, Daimler-Chrysler, Mazda, and Volkswagen. With recent efforts by automotive companies to take a more global approach toward business, Detroit’s economy should remain on the cutting edge. 10
Environment
Air pollution is a point of great concern for the Motor City. Like other major cities, Detroit’s air is contaminated daily by human activities, such as driving cars, burning fuel, and industrial manufacturing. The Detroit region is surrounded by hundreds of lakes and miles of rivers and streams. Most are working or recreational bodies of water. Some watershed areas have previously been plagued with environmental degradation, like Zug Island, Metropolitan Beach Parkway, and the Detroit River. The state, U.S. Federal, and Canadian governments have identified the Detroit River as an international area of concern. The river’s environmental problems and ecological impairments stem from urban growth and industrial development. Since the late 1800s, 95 percent of the Detroit River’s original wetland habitat has been lost through urban and industrial development. Areas of the Detroit River have sediments contaminated with high concentrations of
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Detroit metals and organic compounds, a legacy of industry and a naive understanding of the ecosystem. Although industrial history has played a significant role in the river’s problems, the environmental degradation continues. Municipal and industrial discharges, poor land-use practices, combined sewer overflows, urban and agricultural runoff, and contaminants from air deposition continue. Plans to address the environmental concerns and improve the overall quality of the ecosystem have been developed and implemented by several different conservancy organizations in and around the Detroit area. A plan with priority action is to protect the remaining fish and wildlife habitat in the Detroit River watershed. 11
Shopping
The ethnic diversity of the Detroit community makes shopping in the city a global experience. Unusual and unique shops are scattered everywhere, but premier shopping can be found to the west at Maple and Woodward in Birmingham or Big Beaver Road in Troy at the Somerset Mall. All corporateowned stores, like Neiman Marcus, Hugo Boss, and Saks Fifth Avenue, are connected by a pedestrian overpass that offers a bird’s-eye view of the surrounding area. To satisfy a taste for the alternative, shoppers should head for Royal Oak, where boutiques are nonpareil; cuisine is trendy; and the streets are energetic.
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Home, garden, and food shoppers will be thrilled at the Eastern Market, located at 2934 Russell. There, weekends explode with activity as vegetable farmers, flower growers, honey collectors, plant vendors, and orchard owners display their fresh wares, and city dwellers arrive in droves. The most ardent shoppers at this market, which dates back to the late 1800s, arrive in the pre-dawn hours to get prime selections. Bargain seekers arrive in late afternoon when vendor prices are reduced to sell. In addition to Saturday vendors who sell goods both inside and out, there are also supreme wholesale stores. Restaurants, pubs, and specialty shops extend for several blocks in and around this no-pretense-permitted market. The Central Market, for example, holds fresh meat and fish counters; Rafal’s aromatic spice shop sells only spices, coffee, and sauces, and R. Hirt, Jr., boasts blue ribbon cheeses. A must stop on Monroe Street in Greektown is Astoria Pastry shop, where rows of treats beckon to be tasted. Across the street is a used music and book store, where coffee house aromas linger closeby. Winding back toward the river, the Renaissance Center’s unmistakable cluster of glass towers caters to both the practical and the prosperous. With restaurants, stores, theater, shops, a hotel, and occasional access to the People Mover, the “Ren Cen” offers a variety of stores and personal services.
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Detroit At 10125 Jefferson Avenue is Pewabic Pottery, now listed as National Historic Landmark. Pewabic tiles grace everything from fireplaces to lobbies in many of Detroit’s historic homes. The pottery studio, founded in 1903 by Mary Chase Perry Stratton, moved in 1907 to its present address. A Tudor mansion, the shop operates as a nonprofit arts center and museum. Visitors can learn about the pottery process through a self-guided tour and view both antique and contemporary displays of pieces designed and executed by Stratton and her earliest students. Many of the Pewabic art pieces, which include tiles, candlesticks, and vases, are available for purchase. Finally, there are the outdoor strip malls and several indoor shopping malls in the suburban areas outside Detroit. Most are within a 40-minute ride of the city. Hours and locations are listed in the local yellow page directory. 12
Education
A rich resource of which Detroit is proud is the wide array of educational services and schools available. Anyone can improve skills, learn new technology, and earn degrees or certification in a variety of fields, all within a short radius of the city. Dog grooming, court reporting, beauty, seminary, x-ray technology, modeling, and flying are only a few of the many fields in which certification is available. Two public schools of higher education include Wayne County Community College and Wayne State University (WSU).
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Of the nation’s 3,600 accredited colleges and universities, the top classifications must annually award 50 or more doctoral degrees. Wayne State awarded 239 in 1998. Rated in the country’s top three percent, WSU is located in the heart of the University Cultural Center and has branch extension centers throughout the metropolitan area. The university offers over 5,500 courses, 128 bachelor programs, 61 doctoral programs, and 30 certification specialist and professional programs. Additionally, there are several privately funded institutions that join the ranks of higher education. Among these are Detroit College of Business, Detroit College of Law (Michigan State Campus), University of Detroit Mercy, and Marygrove College. 13
Health Care
Many of Detroit’s medical care facilities are considered outstanding. Children’s Hospital is no exception. Nationally recognized for exceptional care and facilities, the hospital continues to provide top-notch service for children’s health care needs. Joined by Detroit Receiving, Harper Hospital, Huron Valley-Sinai, Hutzel, Sinai-Grace, the Rehabilitation Institute of Michigan, the International Center, Karmanos Cancer Institute, and the Kresge Eye Institute, patients are afforded the most recent developments in medical procedures. In addition, The Detroit Medical Center (DMC), also located downtown, is the regulating center for
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Detroit (United Paramount) and WTVS (PBS), Detroit’s own stations. Fox2-WJBK and WB20 (Warner Brothers) keep viewers up to date with news and information.
The Detroit Red Wings won back-to-back National Hockey League Stanley Cup Championships and kept Lord Stanley’s cup for two years, 1997 and 1998. (Mark Hicks; Metropolitan Convention & Visitors Bureau)
seven hospitals, 3,000 doctors, two nursing centers, 100 primary care physicians, and both teaching and clinical research for Wayne State University. Detroit is headquarters to Blue CrossBlue Shield of Michigan, one of the nations largest health care providers. Also making headlines is DMC’s Huron Valley-Sinai hospital. They welcomed the first millennium baby in the United States, Bella Rose, born on January 1, 2000, at the stroke of midnight. 14
Media
Like most progressive centers, Detroit has a good amount of media resources. Supplementing the three top television stations, WDIV (NBC), WXYZ (ABC), and WWJ-TV (CBS), is UPN 50
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In print are the city’s two major newspapers: the Detroit News and the Detroit Free Press. These two publications share production facilities but are each printed daily and cover both local and national news. The Free Press is the morning edition, and the News hits stands in the afternoon. Sunday’s paper is a combined effort, and this system works well. The Observer and Eccentric newspapers produce geographic editions, focusing on local suburban news. Covering alternative and funk is the Metro Times, which discusses music, dining, and shopping. Business headlines in and around the metro area can be found in the Detroit Legal News, the Detroit Journal, or Crain’s Detroit Business. For listening pleasure, there are an abundance of radio stations that play a diverse mix of country, rock, jazz, soul and motown, classical, and offbeat music 24 hours a day. Listeners who enjoy talk radio can tune in to AM stations WJR-760, which covers topics of public interest, or WWJ-950 radio, the first commercial radio station in America, which encourages a reader forum to exchange ideas. 15
Sports
Detroit sports bring only one word to mind—championship. In addition to optimal convention facilities and festivals, sporting arenas like the Palace of
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Detroit Auburn Hills, Joe Louis Arena, and the new multi-plex Comerica Park are second to none. Detroit is a huge sports town with loyal fans who won’t hesitate to prove their dedication. The Motor City boasts a long history of sports legends. A sculpture memorializing boxer Joe Louis, designed by Edward N. Hamilton, is located in Cobo Convention Center’s main entrance. Also in the Center is memorabilia on Louis’s life and career. Boxing victors Thomas Hearns and Michael Moorer also hail from Motown, as do National Football League Hall of Famer Lem Barney and basketball superstars Dave Bing and Chris Webber. In addition to producing sports superstars, the past two decades have produced a series of victories for professional sports teams in Detroit. Tiger baseball at Tiger Stadium, Pistons basketball at the Palace of Auburn Hills, and Red Wing Hockey at Joe Louis Arena, all have captured world championship titles. The Tigers started the 2000 season in their new digs at Comerica Park, a $285 million arena. Blending innovation, show business, and sports tradition, Comerica Park seats 40,000 fans. The stadium also hosts a 60-passenger ferris wheel on site. The sport park’s turn-of-the-century theme is underscored with the 12-passenger ferris wheel cars designed like baseballs. In keeping with respect for the game, Comerica Park houses the largest scoreboard in baseball history. Complementing its world-class sports teams, Detroit has most recently
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introduced the Detroit Shock, playing for the Women’s National Basketball Association; the Vipers, playing for the International Hockey League; and the Detroit Rockers, playing soccer. 16
Parks and Recreation
Detroit parks are hot spots for recreation. There are hundreds of lakes in the region and miles of rivers and streams. Michigan claims more registered boaters than any other state and boasts about 230 public and private golf courses, not to mention dozens of downhill ski runs and cross-county trails within easy driving distance. In the city, Chene Park winds gently along the waterfront, landscaped and inviting. Summertime brings a mix of open-air concerts, festivals, and people. Belle Isle is an island park, spread over 397 hectares (982 acres) in the Detroit River. Native Americans called the island “Mah-nah-be-zee,” or Swan Island. French settlers called it Isle St. Claire. During the eighteenth century, farmers used the island as a safe haven for animals; thus, it also became known as Hog Island. However, it was renamed Belle Isle, which translates as beautiful island, and by 1845, it was a popular picnic spot for city residents. The City of Detroit purchased Belle Isle for $200,000 in 1879 and designated it as a park in 1881. The original park, designed by Frederick L. Olmsted (1822–1903), featured only recreational canals; however, in the early 1900s, the
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Detroit city built Lake Takoma, Lake Okonoka, and some other canals. Historically, walkways along the water, ornate bridges, and covered bandstands were popular attractions. Canoeing was an important recreational activity for island visitors. In the 1930s, the Civilian Work Authority (CWA) labored with shovels, wheel barrows, and small tractors to create more canals and lakes on the island. Belle Isle supports over three kilometers (two miles) of canals and four lakes, ranging from 7 to 17 hectares (18 to 43 acres). However, some years of neglect have resulted in stagnant water, excessive weed growth, and poor aesthetic character. Today, Belle Isle is one of the most used parks in the city of Detroit. It provides many of its four million annual visitors opportunities to participate in a variety of recreational experiences within a unique natural environment. Recognizing the value of this resource, the City of Detroit Recreation Department has committed to restoring basic water recreational activities, which have historically been part of the Belle Isle experience. Boating enthusiasts can find worthy marinas in the area. Information on docking facilities at Erma Henderson, Grayhaven, Riverside, and St. Aubin can be obtained by phoning the supervisor. Several area recreation centers offer the opportunity for fitness, swimming, and ice skating for youth and seniors alike.
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Performing Arts
World renowned for its musical history, Detroit frequently jives with live performances at a variety of downtown venues. National tours of Broadway productions include stops at four Detroit locales: Fox Theatre at 2211 Woodward Avenue; Fisher Theatre at 3011 W. Grand Boulevard; Masonic Temple and Detroit Music Hall at 350 Madison. Most venues have been architecturally preserved and are an important part of Detroit’s performance art history. Other local professional theatre companies include Second City Comedy Troupe at 2305 Woodward; Attic Theatre; Chene Park Music Theatre at 2600 E. Atwater; Detroit Actors Guild; Detroit Opera House at 1526 Broadway; Detroit Repertory Theatre; Gem Theatre at 333 Madison; Hartland Theatre Company; Harmonie Park Playhouse at 230 E. Grand River; Jewish Ensemble Theatre; 1515 Broadway at 1515 Broadway; and Wayne State Theatre. 18
Libraries and Museums
The Detroit Public Library is an independent municipal corporation governed by a seven-member Detroit Library Commission. In addition to the main locale, there are 24 branch libraries, a Municipal Reference Library, Special Collections, and a bookmobile service for seniors and shut-ins. Library revenues originate from resources that include money from the
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Detroit state equity grant, penal fines, the single business tax reimbursement, the city general fund, state air, and the city of Detroit property taxes. The Main Library receives funding as a state of Michigan resource.
including faces of celebrated people tucked into the scenes.
The Detroit Public Library, in association with Highland Park’s McGregor Public Library, forms the Detroit Associated Libraries (DAL), one of 16 public library cooperatives in Michigan. The Detroit Public Library is also a member of DALNET, the Detroit Area Library Network, an organization of southeastern Michigan libraries who share the costs and benefits of automation.
Music plus museum equals Motown—Berry Gordy’s love child that changed the voice of America was founded on the streets of Detroit in 1959. The museum memorializes the sights and sounds of artists who graced that period.
Detroit is also home to many legendary museums and celebrated galleries. Indeed rated as world class, the Detroit Institute of Arts (DIA) is the country’s fifth-largest fine arts museum. Erected in 1885, the striking building houses “The Thinker," a famous outdoor sculpture by Auguste Rodin (1840– 1917). Locals are proud, and visitors are surprised by the museum’s treasures. Included galleries are those of Italian Renaissance Art, the works of notable African-American artists, a rare armor collection, and the masterworks of luminaries Van Gogh, Rembrandt, and Warhol. Making a statement is Mexican muralist Diego Rivera’s “Detroit Industry." Frescos in the museum’s central courtyard, the dramatic mural pays tribute to the good and evil of American industrialization. A guidebook helps mural viewers discover hidden symbols,
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Galleries featuring Ancient Art, Islamic, and the audio phone tour of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries are only a few of the unique exhibits.
Greenfield Village is living history at its best. Authentic representation of eighteenth-, nineteenth-, and early twentieth-century America, museum presenters are dressed in period clothing and encourage visitor participation with chores like dishwashing and candle making. Other noteworthy historical properties in the Detroit area include the Detroit Historical Museum, the Museum of African American History, the Detroit Garden Center, the Gospel Music Hall of Fame, the Detroit Hydroplane Museum, the Detroit Science Center, Graystone Jazz Museum, the Heidelberg Project, and Hitsville USA/ Motown Historical Museum. 19
To u r i s m
Detroit has a reputation that beckons loudly, and it is becoming a popular tourist destination. With great enthusiasm, visitors are flocking to the Motor City. In fact, the Detroit metropolitan area (Wayne, Oakland, and
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Detroit Macomb counties combined) drew more than 16 million visitors last year. The Detroit Metro Convention and Visitors Bureau is a non-profit organization that promotes Detroit as a destination for meetings, conventions, trade shows, and visitors. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Dr. Martin Luther King Holiday North American International Auto Show
FEBRUARY African American Heritage Month Motown Historical Museum Artist Tribute
MARCH Annual St. Patrick’s Pub Crawl Oscar Night—Detroit Institute of Arts
NOVEMBER Thanksgiving Parade
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Famous Citizens
The Motor City is well known for its automotive legends and musicians. The following people also call Detroit their hometown: Charles Lindbergh (1902–74), airmail pilot who achieved worldwide fame by making the first non-stop solo transatlantic flight. Ralph J. Bunche (1904–71), diplomat, United Nations mediator, winner of the 1950 Nobel Peace Prize. Francis Ford Coppola (b. 1939), film director and producer.
APRIL NAACP Freedom Fund Dinner Detroit Tigers Baseball Opening Day
MAY Eastern Market Flower Day Bal African—black tie hosted by Detroit Institute of Arts
JUNE Detroit Grand Prix Henry Ford Museum/Greenfield Village—Celebration of Emancipation Village Art Festival—Grosse Pointe
JULY International Freedom Festival and Fireworks Afro-American Music Festival—Metropolitan Arts Complex
AUGUST African World Festival—Hart Plaza
SEPTEMBER
Ed McMahon (b. 1923), television personality. Singers Diana Ross (b. 1944), William “Smokey” Robinson (b. 1940), and Bob Seger (b. 1945). Singer-actresses Madonna (Madonna Louise Ciccone, b.1959) and Della Reese (b. 1932). Actors George C. Scott (1927–99) and Tom Selleck (b. 1945). Robin Williams (b. 1952), actor and comedian. Sports figures who had notable careers in Detroit include:
Montreaux Detroit Jazz Festival—Hart Plaza
OCTOBER Ancestors Day Oktoberfest
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Joe Louis (Joseph Louis Barrow, b. Alabama, 1914–81), heavyweight boxing champion from 1937 to 1949.
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Detroit Baseball Hall of Famer Al Kaline (b. Maryland, 1934), a Detroit Tigers star. 22
For Further Study
Websites Detroit Net. [Online] Available http://detroit.net (accessed February 7, 2000). Detroit Institute of Arts. [Online] Available http://dia.org (accessed February 7, 2000). Metro Guide. [Online] Available http:// metroguide.com (accessed February 7, 2000). Visit Detroit. [Online] Available http:// visitdetroit.com (accessed February 7, 2000).
Government Offices Detroit City Clerk 200 City County Building (313) 224-3270 Detroit City Council 1340 City County Building (313) 224-3443 Detroit Mayor’s Office (Dennis Archer) 2 Woodward Avenue (313) 224-3400 Detroit Port Authority 8109 E. Jefferson (313) 331-3842 Ombudsman Office 114 City County Building (313) 224-6000
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Cobo Hall Conference Center 1 Washington Boulevard (313) 877-8111
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Detroit Chamber of Commerce 1 Woodward Avenue, Suite 1700 Detroit, Michigan 49232 (313) 964-4000 Metropolitan Detroit Convention and Visitors Bureau 211 W. Fort Street, Suite 100 Detroit, Michigan 48226 (313) 202-1952
Publications Crain’s Business 1400 Woodbridge Detroit, MI (888) 909-9111 Detroit News/Free Press 615 W. Lafayette Detroit, MI 48226 (313) 222-6400 Metro Times 733 St. Antoine Detroit, MI (313)961-4060 Michigan Chronicle 479 Ledyard Detroit, MI 48201 (313) 963-5522 Observer and Eccentric Newspapers 805 E. Maple Birmingham, MI (248) 644-1100
Books Beasley, Norman and George W. Stark. Made in Detroit. New York: Putnam’s Sons, 1957. Henrickson, Wilma Wood. Detroit Perspectives, Crossroads and Turning Points. Detroit: Wayne State University Press, 1991. Stark, George W. City of Destiny. Detroit: ArnoldPowers, Inc., 1943.
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Hong Kong Hong Kong, Special Administrative Region of China, Asia Founded: Inhabited since prehistoric times, though the earliest modern people lived there by the 2nd millennium B.C. Modern Hong Kong dates back to the British presence, formalized in 1898. Location: Southeastern China, in eastern Asia, bordering the South China Sea and China’s Guangdong Province Flag: Red field with a white Hong Kong orchid featuring red stars on each of its five petals. Motto: “A Future of Excellence and Prosperity for All” Flower: The Hong Kong orchid, Bauhinia blakeana. Time Zone: Eight hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT plus eight hours) Ethnic Composition: Chinese, 98%; non-Chinese Asian (mostly Japanese, Indian, Pakistani, Singaporean), 1%; non-Asian (mostly from UK, Canada, Australia, US, New Zealand), 1% Elevation: Victoria Peak on Hong Kong Island rises to 550 m (1,810 ft); Tai Mo Shan on Lantau Island reaches 957 m (3,140 ft) Latitude and Longitude: 22º15´N, 114º10´E Coastline: 733 km (458 mi) Climate: Subtropical, with monsoons between May and August; cool and humid in winter, hot and rainy from spring through summer, warm and sunny in fall. Annual Mean Temperature: 22.2°C (72°F); 15°C (59°F) in February; 27.8°C (82°F) in July Seasonal Average Precipitation: 2,220 mm (88 in) Government: Special Administrative Region (SAR) of China, with a chief executive appointed by Beijing and a legislature combining elected and appointed officials Weights and Measures: Metric Monetary Units: Hong Kong dollar (HK$), with an exchange rate of HK$7.8 to US$1 (December 1999) Telephone Area Codes: 852
1
Introduction
With its spacious harbor offering deepwater anchorage and its prime location on the edge of the teeming continent of Asia, Hong Kong has long been a major center for trade, finance, and small manufacturing. Hong Kong’s commercial importance has ensured its prominence in the global economy as well as in the economy of Asia, a position Hong Kong acquired after the
establishment of British hegemony over the region in the nineteenth century, when Hong Kong was transformed from a minor coastal town into a center of British influence in East Asia. Hong Kong’s prosperity has continued since the return of the territory to China by the British in 1997. Today Hong Kong stands as a bustling metropolis of almost seven million people, a city centered around an island of gleaming skyscrapers reminiscent of Manhattan and
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Hong Kong
Hong Kong Population Profile Population: 6,097,000 Area: 1,092 sq km (420 sq mi) Description: Special Administrative Region (SAR) by the Chinese government, including harbor, Kowloon Peninsula, New Territories, Stonecutters Island, Lantau Island, Hong Kong Island, and more than 230 smaller islands Ethnic composition: 98% Chinese; 1% nonChinese Asian (Japanese, Indian, Pakistani, Singaporean); 1% non-Asian (mostly from UK, Canada, Australia, US, New Zealand) World population rank1: 35 Percentage of national population2: 0.5% Average yearly growth rate: 3% Nicknames: The Fragrant Harbor ——— 1. The Hong Kong metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of China’s total population living in the Hong Kong metropolitan area.
offering the world a lively and fascinating amalgam of the cultures of East and West. 2
Getting There
Highways Surface access for automobiles, trucks and buses is by three routes between Hong Kong and mainland China. Two bridges at Man Kam To handle traffic to and from China, and a new link was completed in 1985 at Sha Tau Kok. A third connection is at Lok Ma Chau, where a road linked to the New Territories Circular Road (NTCR) was finished in 1989.
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Due to Hong Kong’s high population density and limited area, there are legal restrictions on the number of vehicles allowed in the city. Even so, about half a million motor vehicles drive Hong Kong’s 1,740 kilometers (1,081 miles) of roads. The highway system centers on the NTCR, which rings the city center. A network of bridges and tunnels provides rail and road connections among the various parts of Hong Kong that are separated by water; one of these is the Tsing Ma Bridge, which is among the longest suspension bridges in the world and links Kowloon with Lantau. Bus and Railroad Service After the repatriation of Hong Kong in 1997, train service was inaugurated between Kowloon and the cities of Beijing and Shanghai. The BeijingKowloon train stops en route at seven intermediate stations. The ShanghaiKowloon train runs every other day and requires 29 hours each way. Airports Air access to the city was improved in 1998 when the Hong Kong International Airport began operating on Chek Lap Kok Island and replaced the old airport at Kai Tak. The new airport is connected to the urban areas of Hong Kong by means of a high-speed rail link; travelers going into Hong Kong can make the 23-minute trip downtown by means of the Airport Express train, from which transfers can be made to shuttle buses and Mass Transit Railway (MTR) trains. The MTR itself can be
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Hong Kong
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Hong Kong reached by a shuttle bus from the airport, and a number of shuttles connect the airport directly to destinations throughout the city. Shipping Access to Hong Kong, the “fragrant harbor,” is readily available by sea for both passenger and freight traffic. A ferry service runs from Tuen Mun to Chek Lap Kok Ferry Pier, from which a shuttle accesses the airport. 3
Getting Around
Bus and Commuter Rail Service Most of the populace uses public transportation, the cheapest and most efficient means of getting around in crowded Hong Kong. Buses are the most readily available and the most used form of public transport and incorporate a minibus service as well. A rapid transit system, the Mass Transit Railway (MTR), connects the main districts of Hong Kong Island and Kowloon with areas as far away as Tsuen Wan in the New Territories. The Kowloon Canton Railway (KCR) runs between Kowloon and Lo Wu, on the border of Hong Kong and mainland China. In the New Territories, the Light Rail Transit (LRT) connects Tuen Mun with Yuen Long. On Hong Kong Island, there is a funicular that connects the Central District with Victoria Peak, and a tram that runs along the island’s northern side. Numerous ferry and hovercraft ply the waters among Hong Kong’s numerous islands and link them with Kowloon and the New Territories.
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Sightseeing Access to various parts of the city is convenient and relatively inexpensive by both train and bus. Travel within the region is also easily accomplished by means of the train systems and the local buses, and water travel on the different ferries is also cheap and widely used. Sightseers can experience something of traditional Chinese culture in places like the Kam Tin Walled Village (Kut Hing Wei) in the New Territories, the Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island, or the scenic beauty of the outer islands. Soon both Hong Kong natives and travelers will be able to visit Hong Kong Disneyland, scheduled to open on Penny’s Bay in 2005. 4
People
Hong Kong’s ethnic composition is almost wholly Chinese, from Guangdong province and Hong Kong itself; some ten percent come mostly from Fukien, Chekiang, Shanghai, Kiangsu, and Taiwan. Non-Chinese constitute only about two percent; about half of these are Asians (mostly from Japan, India, Pakistan, and Singapore), and the remainder are mostly British, Americans, Australians, Canadians, and New Zealanders. English and Cantonese remain official languages, with the latter more widely spoken. The use of Mandarin is increasing and will be required in schools. Dialects such as Siyi, Chaochow, Hakka, Hoklo, and Tanka are also used in their respective communities.
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Hong Kong
City Fact Comparison Hong Kong (China)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
6,097,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1898
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$180
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$92
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$23
$14
$15
$16
$295
$173
$246
$207
Total daily costs (hotel, meals, incidentals) Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
87
13
20
11
Oriental Daily News
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
600,000
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1969
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
Taoism, Confucianism, and Buddhism are the predominant religions in Hong Kong. About ten percent of the population is Christian, with a small number of Hindus, Jews, Sikhs, and Muslims. 5
Neighborhoods
Hong Kong Island is what is typically considered Hong Kong, with crowds pursuing business and pleasure among skyscrapers and elegant department stores and restaurants. The island’s Central District, on the north side, is the hub of the Hong Kong good life. To the east of Central is an entertainment district called Wanchai. Fur-
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ther on is Causeway Bay, another area of hotels, restaurants, department stores, and boutiques. The south of Hong Kong Island is mostly residential, with high-rise luxury apartment buildings. Near Aberdeen, also in the south, are two aquatic centers, Ocean Park and Water World. The theme established by Hong Kong Island’s Central District is continued in Kowloon’s Tsim Sha Tsui district. The area also boasts a number of museums, the Hong Kong Coliseum, and the Jamia Masjid Islamic Center. In the New Territories north of the Kowloon hills, one encounters small to
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Hong Kong
Aberdeen Harbor, Hong Kong. (Israel Talby; Woodfin Camp)
medium-sized rural settlements. Towns and villages in the low-lying areas are generally inhabited by Cantonese; settlements in the valleys and foothills are usually populated by the Hakka people. Among the latter are some traditional fortress-like walled villages, such as Kut Hing Wei. The Temple of 10,000 Buddhas is one of several beautiful temples in the New Territories. Much of Kowloon and the New Territories are comprised of crowded shanty towns. In contrast to both the luxury of Hong Kong Island and Tsim Sha Tsui and the squalor of the shanties, the outlying islands offer scenic natural beauty. Lantau Island, larger than Hong Kong
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but with 20,000 people, is rustic enough to be the site of the impressive Buddhist monastery of Po Lin, as well as a Trappist monastery. Lantau’s beaches offer an impression of the beauty of the beaches on many of the other of Hong Kong’s 230-plus islands. Hong Kong also has a small and shrinking population of Tanka, fisherfolk who live on boats in fishing towns, such as Aberdeen, Shau Kei Wan, and Cheung Chau. 6
History
Recently discovered artifacts dating back to Neolithic times indicate that
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Hong Kong Hong Kong has been inhabited for millennia; the earliest modern peoples are thought to have come there from North China in the second millennium B.C. China claimed Hong Kong and its environs about 2,000 years ago, during the Han Dynasty. The Cantonese and later the Hakka settled in the area around the fourteenth century. With its mountainous terrain and lack of fertile soil and fresh water, it was natural that Hong Kong early on became an economic center. With trade came trouble; imperial records mention troops assigned to the area to guard the pearls harvested by the Tanka, while the other two trades plied in Hong Kong appear to have been fishing and opium traffic. The Manchus wiped out the piracy that became rampant by temporarily evacuating Hong Kong in the seventeenth century. The British, expanding into Asia in the early nineteenth century, recognized the value and strategic importance of Hong Kong’s deepwater harbor and began to use it by 1821 to anchor opium-carrying vessels. China’s rulers, concerned about the effect of opium on the county’s populace, eventually sought to prevent the importation of opium. British resistance to Chinese Imperial control resulted in the first Opium War (1839–42), in consequence of which, Britain gained control of Hong Kong Island. The conflict continued, and less than two decades later the second Opium War erupted (1856–60), after which Kowloon Peninsula and Stonecutters Island were ceded to the British by the Convention of Peking
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(1860). Hong Kong’s 235 outlying islands and the New Territories were later leased to Britain for 99 years by the terms of the Convention of 1898. Hong Kong’s previously small population had grown to 120,000 by 1861 and to more than 300,000 at the turn of the century. Subsequent relations between China and Britain were largely antagonistic for the next few decades. Burgeoning Chinese nationalism nurtured a concomitant xenophobia, and Hong Kong became a refuge for political refugees from mainland China after the Chinese Republic was established in 1912. From 1925 to 1927, the Chinese denied British ships access to ports in southern China. In the face of growing hostilities between China and Japan, beginning with Japan’s occupation of Manchuria in 1932 and culminating in the Sino-Japanese War in 1937, China looked to Europe for military supplies and support, and Anglo-Chinese diplomatic relations improved. Hundreds of thousands of Chinese fled to Hong Kong as a result of Japan’s invasion of China. Britain strengthened the colony's defenses, but they proved inadequate, and the Japanese took Hong Kong in December, 1941, during World War II (1939–1945). Britain regained control after Japan’s surrender in 1945, by which time Hong Kong’s population had dropped to 650,000 from its prewar peak of 1.6 million. Hong Kong’s postwar economic recovery proceeded only gradually. A large influx of refugees from the mainland after the Communists took power in Beijing in 1949 added substantially
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Hong Kong to Hong Kong’s population and labor force, but the city’s economy was hampered by a U.S. ban on trade with Communist China in 1950. Hong Kong eventually underwent an economic boom by the 1960s, due primarily to heavy foreign investment encouraged by liberal tax policies. Political stability was tested by Communist-inspired riots in 1967, but Hong Kong weathered the storm, and more refugees came from the mainland in the 1970s. However, economic and other ties between Hong Kong and the mainland improved throughout the 1970s and 1980s. On July 1, 1997, Hong Kong was returned to Chinese sovereignty by Britain according to a 1984 agreement which refined the stipulations of the Convention of 1898. A committee appointed by China from among Hong Kong’s civic leaders had designated Tung Chee-hua as Hong Kong’s chief executive, and the former British colony became a Special Administrative Region (SAR) under the direct control of China’s central committee. Although the 1984 agreement guaranteed the survival of the established legal, social, and economic systems of Hong Kong for the next 50 years, an interim legislative council had already approved restrictions on political rights in Hong Kong before the Chinese resumed control in 1997. Hong Kong’s economy suffered along with others in Asia in the subsequent economic recession that affected the region. In the legislative elections in May 1998, most of the open seats were won by pro-democracy candidates.
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7
Government
The government of Hong Kong is formulated after the provisions of the Basic Law of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region (HKSAR), enacted by China’s National People’s Congress in 1990. The Basic Law ensures “one country, two systems,” according to which principle Hong Kong retains its capitalist economy and a large degree of political autonomy while remaining part of China, which provides for Hong Kong’s foreign policy and defense. The previous law code remains in place and is generally that of Britain. A five-member Court of Final Appeal is the highest court, followed by a High Court, which is in turn followed by district, magistrate, and special courts. The chief legislative body is the 60member Legislative Council, 20 of which are directly elected. Executive authority rests with the chief executive, who is directly responsible to Beijing and serves a five-year term. While all these positions were initially appointed by the 400-member Provisional, the positions are to be filled by direct elections by the year 2007. 8
Public Safety
The Commissioner of Police, who is directly responsible to the Chief Executive of the HKSAR, is the commander of the Hong Kong Police Force. The commissioner is assisted by two deputy commissioners, one for operations and one for management.
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Hong Kong
Exports of goods and services constitute for the majority of Hong Kong’s economy. (John Blaustein; Woodfin Camp)
The Hong Kong Police Department consists of the Operations Wing and the Support Wing and is divided into six regions: Hong Kong Island, Kowloon East, Kowloon West, New Territories North, New Territories South, and Marine. Force Headquarters consists of five departments: Operations; Crime and Security; Personnel and Training; Management Services; and Finance, Administration and Planning (FAP). In 1998, Hong Kong had an overall crime rate of 1,076 incidents per
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100,000 people, and a violent crime rate of 220 per 100,000. 9
Economy
In 1998, Hong Kong had an estimated labor force of over 3.3 million. The labor force can be roughly divided into manufacturing (28 percent), services (46 percent) finance (9 percent) communications and transportation (4.5 percent), construction (2.5 percent), and other (ten percent). With exports valuing some $181 billion, primarily in textiles, electronics, and small manufacturing, Hong Kong’s gross
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Hong Kong domestic product (GDP) was estimated at $175.2 billion. Inflation stood at slightly less than three percent, and unemployment just under five percent. Imports (primarily in the form of food, raw materials, petroleum, and unfinished manufactured products) amounted to $199 billion. While exports of goods and services accounts for the bulk of Hong Kong’s economy, tourism constitutes seven percent of the GDP. Cinematic production is also a significant part in the region’s economy. Hong Kong’s primary trading partners are mainland China and Japan for import sources and the U.S., China, Britain, Canada, Germany, and Japan as export markets. With scarce natural resources, Hong Kong imports much of its food. Water is also largely brought in from the Chinese mainland. Only 12 percent of the land is arable, and of that only half is actually cultivated, mostly in the New Territories. Vegetables are the primary crops. Fishing remains a major industry, with an annual harvest of almost 200,000 metric tons of fish. Two percent of the land is under fish ponds. 10
Environment
Consisting of over 200 islands and a peninsula on the southeast coast of China on the South China Sea and covering a total land area of 1,092 square kilometers (422 square miles), Hong Kong is situated around an outstanding harbor offering 60 square kilometers (23 square miles) of deepwater anchorage. The Sham Chun River defines the
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border with Guangdong Province, and part of Hong Kong is situated in the Zhu Jiang (Pearl River) delta. On the peninsula are Kowloon and the New Territories. Two of the larger islands are Hong Kong Island and Lantau Island, and there are over 230 smaller outlying islands. Much of the terrain is hilly, with the highest peaks being Tai Mo Shan on Lantau at 957 meters (3,140 feet) and Victoria Peak on Hong Kong Island at 550 meters (1,810 feet). Fifty percent of the region is sparse grass and shrub on poor soil. Seven percent is arable land, although about 40 percent of that lies fallow or uncultivated; one percent is under permanent cultivation; meadows and pastures constitute another one percent; forest and woodland, 12 percent; and two percent is under fish ponds. With annual monsoons—winds from the southwest bearing warm, moist air from the equator—Hong Kong’s climate is subtropical, despite its location within the tropics, and has a rainy season from May through August. Temperatures average 22.2°C (72°F), with a low of 15°C (59°F) in February and a high of 27.8°C (82°F) in July. Average rainfall is about 222 centimeters (88 inches). The climate encourages the lush vegetation found in areas that are not urbanized or barren; much of the extant forest is the result of forestation programs since World War II. 11
Shopping
Hong Kong is well known throughout the world as a shopper’s paradise,
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Hong Kong
Locals and tourists engage in the hustle-bustle of Hong Kong’s busy shopping district in Kowloon. (Kim Newton; Woodfin Camp)
and stores and shops of various kinds can be found on almost every corner. The highest concentrations of places to shop, however, are in the Central District, Causeway Bay, and Stanley on Hong Kong Island, and Tsim Sha Tsui, Mongkok, and Yaumati on Kowloon. Department stores include both indigenous Hong Kong stores and stores from abroad. The former are the most prominent in the Central District, among them Wing On, Dragon Seed, and Lane Crawford. Elsewhere one can find the British store Marks & Spenser and Japanese stores like Seibu, Isetan, and Mistukoshi. Hong Kong also fea-
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tures a number of large malls that offer a concentration of fine stores, quality restaurants, and upscale boutiques. Also found throughout the region are Chinese product emporia specializing in Chinese goods such as clothing, silks, embroidery, jade, and cloisonné. There are several shopping lanes and street bazaars around Hong Kong, among them East and West Li Yuen Streets, Pottinger Street, Man Wah Lane, and Jardine’s Crescent. 12
Education
Schools are divided into primary, junior secondary, and senior secondary
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Hong Kong levels, with examinations for passage between each. Education through the junior secondary level (for children between the ages of six and 15) is mandatory. About 60 percent of all these schools are private; 30 percent receive some form of government subsidy; and the rest are public. Nearly all of Hong Kong's people have at least a primary school education. Enrollment in the primary schools in mid-1990s totaled about 470,000 while total enrollment in secondary and vocational schools came to around 520,000. Colleges and universities in Hong Kong are generally small; the University of Hong Kong (founded 1911) and the Chinese University of Hong Kong (1963), for example, have a combined enrollment of around 14,000. These two schools, together with Hong Kong Polytechnic (1972) and Hong Kong Baptist College (1956), are the main institutions of higher education. There are also students at numerous other schools for vocational, technical, and industrial instruction. The City University of Hong Kong is a new school that opened in 1984, representative of recent efforts to expand the size and the number of institutions for post-secondary education in Hong Kong. Thousands of students also go abroad to pursue their studies. 13
Health Care
Improving health indices and a steady decline in major communicable diseases point to a continued increase
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in public health, attributable for the most part to efforts to educate the public (such as an anti-smoking campaign) and programs to make preventive medicine and personal health services readily available. Cancer, heart disease, and stroke are the usual causes of death. Moreover, the Hong Kong public generally enjoys a relatively high quality of life. Life expectancy is just under 77 years for men and slightly above 82 for women. A growing elderly population has become an increasing concern. Hospitals, like the schools, are either private, partly subsidized, or public. Among the region’s many hospitals are St. John’s and Ruttonjee on Hong Kong Island, Queen Mary and Hong Kong Buddhist Hospitals in Kowloon, and Caritas and Tai Po Hospitals in the New Territories. Social welfare programs are mostly limited to emergency relief, with some provision for old age and disabilities. Hospital services are supplemented by specialized clinics and clinics in outlying areas, some of them on boats, in an effort to provide all citizens of Hong Kong with access to health care. 14
Media
Hong Kong’s international commercial importance and strategic location make it a natural communications center. Hong Kong is thus a base of operations for East and Southeast Asian bureaus for a number of news services. Printing and publishing are also significant industries in Hong Kong, and the city has several dozen newspapers and
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Hong Kong even more periodicals in Chinese and other languages. Among the newspapers are the Hong Kong Daily News, the Sing Tao Daily, and the South China Morning Post. Several television and radio companies serve Hong Kong, among which are Asia Television, Metro Broadcast Corporation, and Hong Kong Commercial Broadcasting. 15
Sports
Hong Kong has two particularly impressive sports venues, the Queen Elizabeth Stadium and the Hong Kong Coliseum, one of Asia’s largest indoor stadiums, at which it is able to host international sporting events. Among such events held in the city are the Hong Kong Marathon, the Hong Kong Open Golf Championship, the International Dragon Boat Races, Hong Kong Sevens for rugby, and tournaments of various sports. Horse racing is a Hong Kong passion and can be experienced at two courses, Happy Valley on Hong Kong Island and Shatin in the New Territories. Many clubs around Hong Kong offer excellent facilities where members can play everything from cricket to hockey and tennis. 16
Parks and Recreation
Some 40 percent of Hong Kong’s land is devoted to its park system, and its 21 parks scattered throughout Hong Kong and Lantau Islands and the New Territories are well used by the citizens. Tai Chi, hiking, bicycling, kite flying, and picnicking are popular activities for
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which the ultra-urban people of Hong Kong resort to the wooded areas surrounding the city. Hong Kong’s waterfront setting also provides ample opportunity for aquatic recreation, such as pleasure sailing, waterskiing, and canoeing, and the city has several boating clubs. Organized recreation is also available at community centers. Among the larger parks are Hong Kong Park in the Central District, which has a Museum of Tea Ware, a greenhouse, an aviary, gardens, and sports facilities. Victoria Park is built on reclaimed land in Causeway Bay and is a typical urban park. Behind the old Governor’s House are the Zoological and Botanical Gardens, which have beautiful manicured gardens, a small zoo, and an aviary. In the New Territories, the MacLehose Trail is a 100-kilometer (60-mile) parkway linking eight separate parks and offering dramatic scenery and coastal views. 17
Performing Arts
Venues for the performing arts in Hong Kong include City Hall (for classical music, theater, and film), the Hong Kong Arts Centre, the Fringe Club (mostly for contemporary and avant garde) in Central District. Queen Elizabeth Stadium (for ballet and pop and orchestra concerts) and the Hong Kong Academy for the Performing Arts (with two theaters for dramatic performances and classical and modern dance) are in Wanchai. The Hong Kong Stadium in Happy Valley is used for pop concerts,
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Hong Kong
Visiting troupes of the Bejing Opera perform in Shouson Theater. (Mike Yamashita; Woodfin Camp)
as is the Hong Kong Coliseum in Kowloon. Performance groups include the Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra, which performs in City Hall; the Hong Kong Chinese Orchestra, playing traditional Chinese music; some ten troupes performing Cantonese opera; and visiting troupes from the mainland that perform Peking opera. The Hong Kong Dance Company performs Chinese dance and contemporary choreography on Chinese themes. The Hong Kong Ballet performs traditional and contemporary Western pieces while the City Contemporary Dance Company
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performs more innovative works. The Fringe Club presents drama of various sorts in English and Cantonese, and the Zumi Icosahedron is an avant garde drama and dance troupe. 18
Libraries and Museums
The major higher educational institutions, such as the University of Hong Kong and the Chinese University of Hong Kong, have fairly comprehensive libraries. The city also operates a system of 25 public libraries, including two mobile library units.
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Hong Kong Several of the region’s museums are located in Kowloon. Among these are the Hong Kong History Museum in Kowloon Park, the Space Museum by the waterfront, the Hong Kong Museum of Art, and the Science Museum. Also in Kowloon is Young’s Wax Museum, with figures of personages from Chinese history, such as Confucius and Sun Yat-sen. The Lei Cheng Uk Museum is a burial vault from the Han Dynasty (c. A.D. 25–220). The Sung Dynasty Wax Museum depicts life in a Sung Dynasty village, from about A.D. 960 to 1280. On Hong Kong Island, the Fung Ping Shan Museum, operated by the University of Hong Kong, has a large collection of Chinese and Nestorian antiquities. The Museum of Chinese Historical Relics is located in Wanchai. And the Museum of Tea Ware can be found in Hong Kong Park. 19
To u r i s m
Some three million tourists visit Hong Kong each year, and the tourist industry accounts for seven percent of Hong Kong’s gross national product (GNP). Almost all visitors from abroad need both passport and visa to enter the region. Package tours by which travelers arrive by air or sea are readily available with a variety of options, and both government-run tourist bureaus and private tourist organizations have a wealth of information and services to offer. Access to various parts of the city from the airport is convenient and relatively inexpensive by both train and
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bus. Travel within the region is easily accomplished by means of the train systems and the local buses, and water travel on the different ferries is also cheap and widely used. Tourists can experience the ultra-modern in Hong Kong’s abundant department stores, boutiques, and malls, or experience something of traditional Chinese culture in places like the Kam Tin Walled Village (Kut Hing Wei) in the New Territories, the Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island, or the scenic beauty of the outer islands. Soon tourists will also be able to visit Hong Kong Disneyland, scheduled to open on Penny’s Bay in 2005. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY-FEBRUARY Lunar New Year Birthday of Che Kung Hong Kong Arts Festival Hong Kong City Festival
FEBRUARY Yuen Siu (Spring Lantern Festival)
APRIL Ching Ming (Rembrance of Ancestors) Birthday of Tin Hau Hong Kong International Film Festival
APRIL/MAY Cheung Chau Bun
MAY Birthday of the Buddha Birthday of Tam Kung
JUNE Dragon Boat Festival (Tuen Ng) Birthday of Kwan Tai
JULY Hong Kong Special Administrative Region Establishment Day
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Hong Kong
A festival follows the International Dragon Boat Races held every June. Because of Hong Kong’s sports facilities, the city can provide for events like these. (Kim Newton; Woodfin Camp)
AUGUST Maidens (Seven Sisters) Festival Yue Lan (Hungry Ghost) Festival
SEPTEMBER Mid-Autumn Festival Monkey God Festival Chinese Opera Fortnight
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER Birthday of Confucius Chung Yeung
OCTOBER National Day
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER Festival of Asian Arts
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21
Famous Citizens
William Alison Anders (b. 1933), American astronaut on Apollo 8. Jackie Chan (b. 1954), actor. Marguerite Higgins (1920–1966), Pulitzer Prize-winning writer (Korean and Vietnam Wars). Bruce Lee (1940–1973), actor and martial arts master. Joan Lorring (b. 1926), actress, best known for her starring role in The Corn Is Green, 1949. Daniel C. Tsang, American librarian and co-founder of AWARE.
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Hong Kong Kitty Tsui, writer, best known for Breathless, 1995, and Words of a Woman Who Breathes Fire. Lin Yutang (1895–1976), writer and philologist. 22
For Further Study
Websites CIA World Factbook (Hong Kong). [Online] Available http://www.odci.gov/cia/publications/factbook/ hk.html (accessed December 9, 1999). Daily information bulletin for weather, news and major speeches by government officials. [Online] Available http://www.info.gov.hk/ isd/news/ (accessed December 9, 1999). Hong Kong government. [Online] Available http://www.info.gov.hk/hkfacts/facts_e.htm (accessed December 9, 1999). Hong Kong government. [Online] Available http://www.info.gov.hk/orgindex.htm (accessed December 9, 1999). Hong Kong government Works Bureau and the Planning, Environment and Lands Bureau. [Online] Available http:// www.wpelb.gov.hk/ (accessed December 9, 1999). Hong Kong Travel Association. [Online] Available www.hkta.org (accessed December 9, 1999). Official website of the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region [Online] Available government.http://info.gov.hk/ (accessed December 9, 1999). PBS: Hong Kong: Lives in Transition. [Online] Available http://www.pbs.org/pov/ hongkong/ (accessed December 9, 1999).
Government Offices Central Government Offices Lower Albert Road Hong Kong Office of the Ombudsman 31/F Gateway Tower 1 25 Canton Road Tsimshatsui, Kowloon Hong Kong
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Tourist and Convention Bureaus Hong Kong Tourist Association 548 Fifth Avenue New York, NY 10036 (212) 947-5008 Hong Kong Tourist Association 35/F Jardine House 1 Connaught Place Central Hong Kong
Publications Government Publications Centre G/F, Low Block, Queensway Government Offices 66 Queensway, Hong Kong Publications Unit, Census and Statistics Department 19/F, Wanchai Tower, 12 Harbour Road Wan Chai, Hong Kong
Books Cameron, Nigel. An Illustrated History of Hong Kong. Oxford, 1991. Chan, Ming K., ed. The Challenge of Hong Kong's Reintegration with China. (Hsiang-kang hui kuei Chung-kuo chih t`iao chan / Ch`en Mingch`iu pien chu.) Hong Kong: Hong Kong University Press, 1997. Cheng, Joseph Y. S., and Sonny S. H. Lo. From Colony to SAR : Hong Kong's Challenges Ahead. Hong Kong: Chinese University Press, 1995. Dimbleby, Jonathan. The Last Governor: Chris Patten & the Handover of Hong Kong. London: Little, Brown, 1997. Elegant, Robert. Hong Kong. Time-Life, 1977. Fosh, Patricia, ed., et al. Hong Kong Management and Labour: Continuity and Change. New York: Routledge, 1999. Hsiung, James C., ed. Hong Kong the Super Paradox : Life After Return to China. New York, N.Y.: St. Martin's Press, 1999. Leung, Beatrice, and Joseph Cheng. Hong Kong SAR: In Pursuit of Domestic and International Order. Sha Tin, N.T., Hong Kong: Chinese University Press, 1997. Lo, C. P. Hong Kong. NY: Belhaven Press, 1992. McGurn, William. Perfidious Albion: The Abandonment of Hong Kong, 1997. Ethics and Public Policy Center, 1992. Morris, Jan. Hong Kong. Random, 1988, 1989. Patten, Christopher. East and West: China, Power, and the Future of Asia. Random House/Times Books, 1998.
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Hong Kong Pang-kwong, Li, ed. Political Order and Power Transition in Hong Kong. Hong Kong: Chinese University Press, 1997. Rafferty, Kevin. City on the Rocks: Hong Kong's Uncertain Future. Viking, 1990. Rioni, S. G., ed. Politics and Economics of Hong Kong. Commack, N.Y.: Nova Science Publishers, 1997. Scott, Ian, ed. Institutional Change and the Political Transition in Hong Kong. New York: St.
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Martin's Press, 1998. Segal, Gerald. The Fate of Hong Kong. New York: St. Martin's, 1993. So, Alvin Y. Hong Kong's Embattled Democracy : a Societal Analysis. Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press, 1999. Warner, John. Fragrant Harbour: Early Photographs of Hong Kong. Hippocrene, 3rd ed., 1980. Welsh, Frank. A Borrowed Place: The History of Hong Kong. Kodansha, 1993.
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Honolulu Honolulu, Hawaii, United States of America Founded: In 1850, Kamehameha III proclaimed Honolulu the capital city of the independent Kingdom of Hawaii. Under US control, the county of Oahu was established on July 1, 1905. Two years later, it was renamed the city and county of Honolulu. A city charter was adopted when Hawaii became a state in 1959. Location: Southern shore of Oahu, one of eight major islands in the state of Hawaii, in the northern Pacific Ocean, 2,390 miles from California, and 3,850 miles from Japan Flag: Honolulu does not fly a city flag. Motto: Ua mau ke ea o ka aina i ka pono (state motto, attributed to King Kamehameha III, meaning “The life of the land is perpetuated in righteousness.”) Island Flower: Ilima Time Zone: Hawaii is located in its own time zone, called Hawaiian Standard Time. The state does not observe Daylight Savings Time. Noon in Hawaii = 2 PM on the US West Coast/5 PM on the US East Coast (Standard Time, November through August). During mainland Daylight Savings (April–October), there is a three hour difference with the West Coast and a six hour difference with the East Coast. Ethnic Composition: 24% Caucasian; 21% Japanese; 17% mixed ancestry, other than part-Hawaiian; 16% part-Hawaiian; 7% Filipino; 6% Chinese, 1% pure Hawaiian Latitude and Longitude: 21°18’25 N, 157°51’30 W Coastline: Southern shore of the island of Oahu Climate: Typically warm and sunny throughout the year, with slight temperature variations; nearly constant trade winds moderate heat and humidity. Kona weather, with warmer winds from the south, brings higher temperatures and humidity. Winter months are wetter, and sometimes stormier, but rainbows quickly follow the rains. Annual Mean Temperature: Summer highs range from 85 to 87°F (29.4–30.6°C); night lows average 70 to 74°F (21.1–23.3°C). In the winter, daytime highs range from 70 to 74°F (21.1–23.3°C); night lows average 65 to 69°F (C18.3–20.6°C). Average Annual Precipitation: Varies dramatically in different parts of the city. The waterfront district of Waikiki only averages about 25 inches of rain, but the Lyon Arboretum in the upper Manoa Valley, about 5 miles to the north, averages 158 inches. Government: Mayor and nine-member city council. Weights and Measures: Standard US Telephone Area Code: 808 in the city and county of Honolulu
1
Introduction
Aptly named “The Gathering Place,” Oahu is the hub of the Hawaiian Islands, and Honolulu is the heartbeat of Oahu. Most of Honolulu is settled in a narrow shoulder on the south shore
of Oahu, nestled between mountains and the Pacific Ocean, and surrounded by fields of sugarcane and pineapple, ranch lands, and farms. One of the most ethnically diverse cities in the United States, more than 75 percent of the state’s multicultural population
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Honolulu
Honolulu Population Profile Population: 377,050 Area: 1,540 sq km (594 sq mi–Oahu) Ethnic composition: 24% Caucasian; 21% Japanese; 17% mixed ancestry, other than part-Hawaiian; 16% part-Hawaiian; 7% Filipino; 6% Chinese, 1% pure Hawaiian World population rank1: unranked Percentage of national population2: <1% Nickname: The Gathering Place ——— 1. The Honolulu metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the total US population living in the Honolulu metropolitan area.
reside there. The economic and entertainment capital of Hawaii, Honolulu is a sophisticated metropolis with a plethora of activities, attractions, and events; however, the city also enjoys a tropical atmosphere and magnificent natural beauty. Much of Hawaii’s culture is preserved in Honolulu, in its many museums, churches, national memorials and monuments, and the Iolani Palace, the only royal palace in the United States. Perhaps all of these are reasons why 70,000 travelers from around the world visit the island each day.
the city is compact and easy to navigate, the private automobile remains a predominant mode of transport, often clogging the freeways during rush hour. The city has experimented with water transport with little success. Mayor Jeremy Harris’ proposed light-rail system has not been well received. Airports Located in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, Honolulu did not become a popular tourist destination until the airplane age. Today, most people who come to Oahu arrive at the Honolulu International Airport. Before 1932, the airport was named after Commander John Rodgers. He made the first flight from the mainland United States to Hawaii in 1925. It is possible to get to Hawaii by cruise ship and travel to the other islands by cruise ship, but the bulk of inter-island travel is serviced by airlines. Hawaiian Airlines has daily flights to Seattle, San Francisco and Los Angeles. The smaller Aloha Airlines also serves the West Coast. All major U.S. airlines fly to the islands. Japanese airlines have daily service to Honolulu and neighboring islands. Honolulu is a hub for many Pacific Islands. Shipping
2
Getting There
Highways The island of Oahu has two major freeways that are part of the national highway system: H-1 and H-2. While
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Honolulu is located at the crossroads of transpacific cargo carriers, and its port has extensive shipping facilities. The port also serves local industries, including pineapple canneries, sugar refineries, and clothing factories.
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Honolulu
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Honolulu 3
Getting Around
Bus and Commuter Rail Service Oahu Transit Services operates a successful public bus service. The American Public Transit Association named “The Bus” America’s Best Transit System in 1994–1995. “The Bus” transports 260,000 people over 60,000 miles each day. Buses, many of them equipped with bicycle racks, travel throughout the island. With 1,350 employees, “The Bus” is one of Oahu's largest employers. Sightseeing Honolulu ranks first in tourist arrivals, and some of the state's most visited attractions are within its boundaries. In Oahu, most visitors head for the Waikiki district of Honolulu. Other popular spots in and around the city include the USS Arizona Memorial and Visitors Center in Pearl Harbor; Punchbowl Crater, home of the National Memorial Cemetery; the retired battleship USS Missouri; the Queen Emma Summer Palace; and Iolani Palace, the only royal palace in the United States. 4
People
Honolulu is one of the most diversified cities in America. About 24 percent of residents are Caucasian; 21 percent are Japanese; 17 percent are mixed ancestry, other than part-Hawaiian; 16 percent are part-Hawaiian; seven percent are Filipino, six percent are Chinese; and about one percent are pure Hawaiian. There are many small Pacific and Asian minorities. According to the
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1990 U.S. Census, in the city and county of Honolulu, 264,372 people were white; 195,149 were of Japanese ancestry; 120,029 were Filipino; 63,265 were Chinese; 91,967 were Hawaiian; 25,875 were black; 3,532 were Native American; and 72,042 were of other heritage. Early Hawaiians worshipped many ancestral gods and spirits. They made daily offerings to Pele, goddess of the volcano. They also made offerings to Ku, the god of war, and Lono, the god of fertility. Today, many Hawaiians hold on to their beliefs. Others have accepted Christianity or other religions. The remains of heiau, places of worship for early Hawaiians, are found throughout Oahu. The Catholic Church, with some 200,000 members, is the largest congregation in the state. Buddhists are second, with more than 85,000 members. There are Jewish, Hindu, and Muslim houses of worship as well. English and Hawaiian are the official languages. Hawaiian, a melodious language, is a Polynesian dialect. It has only 12 letters: the vowels a, e, i, o, u, and the consonants h, k, l, m, n, p and w. In order to clarify pronunciation, a glottal stop (‘) or ‘okina—similar to the sound between the oh's in the English oh-oh—is used in the Hawaiian language. The state's name often is spelled Hawai‘i. About 85 percent of all place names in Hawaii are in Hawaiian. Many Hawaiian phrases and words, as well as words from immigrant groups, have been incorporated into everyday usage. Some common Hawaiian words include aloha (a word of many meanings that
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Honolulu
City Fact Comparison Honolulu (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
377,050
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1850
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$112
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$52
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$13
$14
$15
$16
$177
$173
$246
$207
Total daily costs (hotel, meals, incidentals) Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
2
13
20
11
The Honolulu Advertiser
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
102,358
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1856
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
expresses love, affection, compassion, grace and charity. It is often used as a greeting), and mahalo (thanks). Pidgin, a simplified form of English, is still used in the islands. It was developed by Hawaii's many immigrant groups to communicate with one another. Modern pidgin has been defined as local slang and has come under attack by some educators who believe it is keeping children from speaking proper English. Others defend pidgin as a cultural treasure unique to Hawaii. Pidgin is not easy to pick up. It has a cadence of its own, double meanings, and borrowed words from many
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languages. Some examples include talk story: to have a conversation, to gossip; ono grinds: good food (or broke da mouth, for delicious); brah: brother or friend; I am pau: I am done, finished; and Pau Hana: quitting time. Japanese and other Asian languages also are widely spoken. 5
Neighborhoods
One of the world's most famous neighborhoods is Waikiki, on the southern shores of the island of Oahu. Separated from the rest of Honolulu by the Ala Wai Canal, Waikiki truly seems to be a city of its own. With about 25,000 residents and thousands of daily
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Honolulu
Honolulu is on the island of Oahu, one of the eight major islands of Hawaii. (Ignacio Lobos; EPD Photos)
visitors, Waikiki never seems to sleep. It has more than 400 restaurants and well over 300 bars and clubs. Yet, remarkably, Waikiki architecture, except for a few buildings, is quite unremarkable. Most are large concrete monoliths with little visual interest. North of the city is the neighborhood of Makiki, one of the most densely populated areas in the city. Makiki Heights, which as the name implies, climbs up the hills that buttress the northern end of the city, is one of the most exclusive neighborhoods in Honolulu. Just to the east is Manoa Valley, where beautiful residential homes are surrounded by lush green hills on three sides. It is also one of the rainiest areas in the city. One of the most typi-
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cal buildings in the city is the “walk up,” a two, three, or four-story building without elevators. Because of its benign weather, more than 80 percent of households do not use heating or air conditioners. 6
History
Archaeological evidence suggests that the first settlers to the Hawaiian Islands arrived from the Marquesas sometime between 500 and 750. Settlers from Tahiti arrived sometime in 1000 and may have enslaved the Marquesans, forcing them to build temples and work in the fields.
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Honolulu The British explorer Captain James Cook (1728–79) was the first known Westerner to sight the island of Oahu, on January 18, 1778. He was killed in a fight with Hawaiians when he returned to the islands a year later. Many Westerners would soon come to the islands, some with the idea of conquest in mind. By the late eighteenth century, powerful Hawaiian rulers battled for control of the archipelago. In 1795, King Kamehameha the Great (c. 1758– 1819; r. 1792–1819), who controlled the Big Island of Hawaii, captured Maui and Molokai and set his eyes on Oahu. Kamehameha's large fleet of battle canoes landed in present-day Waikiki. His soldiers moved across the valley and into the mountains pursuing Kalanikupule, the king of Oahu. Kamehameha had quite an advantage. Among his troops were several Western sharpshooters with firearms. With superior firepower, they forced Kalanikupule's troops high into the valley. In the final battle, hundreds of Oahuans were forced to jump to their deaths from the Nuuanu Pali (cliffs). After his victory, Kamehameha united the islands under one kingdom. During the time of the Kamehameha's invasion, Honolulu was little more than a village of small huts near the water. In 1793, Captain William Brown directed his English frigate Butterworth into what is now known as Honolulu Harbor. He named it Fair Heaven, but it came to be known as Brown’s Harbor. It is not clear how the harbor came to be known as Honolulu, which means protected bay. But it was
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clear to sailors that the bay offered a perfect place to set anchor. As more ships came, Honolulu began to grow. By 1809, King Kamehameha moved his residence from Waikiki to Honolulu to tighten his control on the valuable sandalwood trade. By the 1820s, whaling ships began to stop in Honolulu. Their crews were a rough crowd. Taverns and brothels soon followed to serve their needs. Not far behind were Christian missionaries who traveled to the islands to convert the Hawaiians. The missionaries exerted enormous influence. By the mid-1800s, they managed to convince the Hawaiian royalty to prosecute drunken sailors and curb the growing prostitution trade. Most whaling boats abandoned Honolulu for the safer confines of Lahaina on Maui. The sons of these original missionaries would in time become businessmen who wielded enormous power in the islands. They came to control most of the land, and operated large and profitable sugar plantations. Westerners also brought many diseases that decimated the native Hawaiian population. Faced with a worker shortage, the plantation owners brought thousands of Japanese, Chinese, Portuguese, Filipinos, and Koreans to work the land. Hawaii had become a desirable place to outsiders. In 1843, the British held the island for five months before leaving. The French followed in 1849. The Hawaiians got their kingdom back but could not stop the steady flow of foreigners coming to the islands. By 1893, the Hawaiian kingdom was once again under siege by outsiders. White
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Honolulu
Sugar plantations, which were established by wealthy businessmen in the 1800s, attract groups of school children and tourists. Today, sugarcane is a staple crop of Hawaii. (Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp)
planters and businessmen plotted with the United States Minister to Hawaii, John L. Stevens, to overthrow the Hawaiian monarchy. Queen Lili'uokalani (1838–1917; r. 1891– 1894), who had recently succeeded her brother, Kalakaua, was pushing for democratic reforms when she was forced to relinquish her authority. But the queen did not cede her powers to the provisional government that had just overthrown her. She ceded it to the United States with the hope that it would “undo the action of its representatives and reinstate me in the authority which I claim as the constitutional sovereign of the Hawaiian Islands.”
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U.S. President Grover Cleveland (1837–1908; president 1885–89; 1893– 97) agreed the overthrow of Queen Lili'uokalani had been illegal. “By an act of war, committed with the participation of a diplomatic representative of the United States,” Cleveland wrote, “and without authority of Congress, the Government of a feeble but friendly and confiding people has been overthrown. A substantial wrong has thus been done which a due regard for our national character as well as the rights of the injured people requires we should endeavor to repair.” Cleveland ordered the lowering of the U.S. flag, but the provisional government refused. Hawaiians, greatly
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Honolulu outnumbered and without weapons to defend themselves, were no longer in control of their own destiny. The provisional government in Honolulu systematically tightened its control of the islands, even imprisoning Queen Lili'uokalani for several months. By 1898, Hawaiians could only watch as the United States finally annexed the islands. “Because of the overthrow and annexation, Hawaiian control and Hawaiian citizenship were replaced with American control and American citizenship. We suffered a unilateral redefinition of our homeland and our people, a displacement and a dispossession in our own country,” wrote Haunani-Kay Trask, professor of Hawaiian Studies at the University of Hawaii. Today, many of the remaining Hawaiians are among the poorest residents on the islands. For the United States, the Territory of Hawaii—especially Honolulu— became a key military post. Large installations were built, including bases inside Diamond Head, an extinct volcano and important Honolulu landmark. Massive guns pointed out to sea. Through the early 1900s, the military presence grew steadily. “A day that will live in infamy,” President Franklin D. Roosevelt (1882– 1945; president 1933–45) told Americans on December 7, 1941, after 360 Japanese aircraft dropped bombs on Pearl Harbor, just west of Honolulu, and other military bases throughout the island of Oahu. A 798-kilogram (1,760-
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pound) armor-piercing bomb slammed through the deck of the USS Arizona and ignited its forward ammunition magazine. The massive explosion at about 8:10 AM was heard in Honolulu. In less than nine minutes, the ship sank with its crew. The loss of the Arizona symbolized the beginning of World War II (1939–45) for Americans; the explosion that instantly galvanized public opinion in favor of the war effort. Admiral Isoroku Yamamoto, who planned the attack on Pearl Harbor even though he opposed going to war against the United States, said he feared that Japan “had awakened a sleeping giant and filled him with a terrible resolve.” In all, 2,341 military personnel and 54 civilians were killed. More than 50 of the bombs that fell on Honolulu were American Navy anti-aircraft shells that missed their targets. The Japanese destroyed eight battleships, three destroyers, and 188 planes, bombing several military targets throughout the island. The Japanese lost 64 men, 29 aircraft, and five midget submarines. In the middle of the Pacific, Honolulu played a crucial role in the war against Japan. More than one million soldiers passed through the city on their way to battles in the Pacific. Thousands who died in the war were buried in a cemetery in Honolulu. Its residents lived under martial law for more than three years, the only place in the United States subjected to such measures.
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Honolulu
Pearl Harbor, a key military post for the United States, was bombed by the Japanese on December 7, 1941. (Gerd Ludwig; Woodfin Camp)
In many ways, the World War II effort demanded more from civilians living in the territory of Hawaii than anywhere else in the United States. In Honolulu, military authorities declared martial law and suspended civil liberties the day of the attack. Civilian authorities expected martial law to last only a few months, but for the next three years, Honolulu and the islands became virtual armed military camps. During the war, as much as one-third of the island of Oahu was occupied by military forces. The lives of regular citizens were drastically altered by the war. Japanese immigrants and their American-born second generation in Hawaii immediately came under suspicion, and their loyalties were questioned. They exceeded 40 percent of the population,
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with 124,000 American citizens and 45,000 immigrants. The military forced Americans of Japanese ancestry who worked at military bases to wear a black-bordered badge to indicate their ethic origin. Their banks, Shinto shrines, department stores, and language schools were confiscated and 1,875 Japanese Americans were arrested and sent to relocation or internment camps on the mainland. “Speak American” posters could be seen throughout Honolulu, one of the most ethnically diverse areas of the United States. While Japanese Americans were singled out, the war and martial law affected the entire population. Everyone was required to carry a gas mask at all times. The beautiful beaches of Waikiki were covered with barbed wire. Curfews and blackouts forced
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Honolulu everyone indoors by 6:00 PM. Every citizen in the islands was fingerprinted, the first mass fingerprinting of civilians in U.S. history. Phone calls and mail were censored, and the military issued dollar bills—with a Hawaii imprint—that could only be used on the islands. Hawaii residents didn't complain much about their plight and were often eager to prove their loyalty. More than 40,000 volunteered to serve in the armed forces. Among them were Americans of Japanese Ancestry (AJA) who joined the all-AJA 100th Infantry Battalion and the 442nd Regimental Combat Team, one of the most highly decorated units in the war. The years 1941 through 1945 would forever alter the character of Honolulu and the Hawaiian Islands. On August 21, 1959, Hawaii became the fiftieth state of the United States. Most people celebrated, but for many native Hawaiians, becoming a state was just another blow against dreams of sovereignty. In 1993, in a joint resolution, Congress formally apologized to the Hawaiian people for the illegal overthrow of Queen Lili'uokalani. Many native Hawaiians continue to press for some type of sovereignty. Status as a new state, the tourism hype, romantic and often inaccurate Hollywood movies about Hawaii, and the selling of the Hawaiian culture soon turned the islands into a major travel destination for Americans. Honolulu’s Waikiki District, which in the early twentieth century was mostly wetlands
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and fertile agricultural land, came to host more than 30,000 hotel rooms by the 1990s. On a typical day, Waikiki, which has a population of about 25,000 people, hosts thousands of visitors. Honolulu felt the growing pressures. Uncontrolled growth littered the city with ugly buildings. Rents went up, and many Honolulu residents soon were unable to afford to buy their own homes. Tourism brought jobs, but mostly low-paying jobs. By the 1990s, Hawaii, and Honolulu became heavily dependent on tourism, especially Japanese tourism. By 1999, the Asian economic downturn affected Honolulu, due to the steady erosion of Asian visitors in the previous two years. 7
Government
Oahu is incorporated as the city and county of Honolulu. The mayor is elected to a four-year term, but cannot serve for more than two consecutive terms. The mayor appoints a managing director to run several city departments. The Council has nine members, each elected to a four-year term. Like the mayor, council members cannot serve for more than two consecutive terms. 8
Public Safety
Honolulu ranks as one of the safest cities in America, with low crime rates. The Police Department reported an 11 percent drop in overall crime in 1998, the lowest in ten years. Police officials believe greater efforts at community policing have decreased overall crime.
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Honolulu Hawaii were in an economic downturn. Hawaii is highly dependent on Japanese tourism, but the Asian economic crisis cut into the number of visitors. Honolulu is located at the crossroads of transpacific cargo carriers, and its port has extensive shipping facilities. The port also serves local industries, including pineapple canneries, sugar refineries, and clothing factories. 10 Sealife Park provides educational programs for students of all ages. (Mike Yamashita; Woodfin Camp)
During 1998, 47,453 crimes were reported in Honolulu, a decrease of 11 percent from 1997. In 1995, 67,000 crimes were reported. Violent crime was down by 11 percent in 1998, and property crime had a similar drop. The largest decrease came in larceny-theft. Tourists are often targeted by petty larceny. Rental cars are particularly vulnerable. 9
Economy
Tourism is the most important industry in Hawaii, especially in Honolulu, which is the leading economic center of the state. Tourism brings between $8 billion and $9 billion to the state each year, or about 55 percent of all income. The military contributes about 19 percent while services and merchandise contribute about 26 percent. During 1998–99, while the mainland United States was thriving economically, Honolulu and the rest of
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Environment
With close to 900,000 residents in less than 1,554 square kilometers (600 square miles), Oahu, once a pristine island, has suffered much environmental degradation. Sugar plantations and other agricultural activities have added to pollution problems. There is little air pollution, but the island remains sensitive to water pollution. Some of its beaches are in danger of erosion. However, the endangered green turtle has shown signs of recovery in Hawaii. 11
Shopping
Because it is highly dependent on tourism, Oahu offers a great deal of shopping, from giant malls to small kitsch souvenir shops. Many tourists take home Hawaiian shirts, even surfboards made locally. Flower leis are also very popular. 12
Education
There are four major colleges in Oahu. The University of Hawaii has its main campus in the Manoa Valley in Honolulu. A branch of UH, as it is
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Honolulu known locally, is located in West Oahu. The East-West Center, established in 1960 to promote technical and cultural exchange between the United States and Asian countries, is located at the UH Manoa Campus. Chaminade University was established in 1950, and Hawaii Pacific University, which attracts students from throughout the world, was established in 1953. UH's three campuses and seven community colleges have a total enrollment of about 50,000 undergraduate and graduate students. UH offers degrees in more than 80 programs, including oceanography, tropical agriculture, and Hawaiian studies. Kapiolani Community College in Honolulu is renowned for its culinary school. Also in Oahu is the Hawaii Campus of Brigham Young University. 13
Health Care
Hawaii ranks first in the United States in life expectancy, with about 76 years for men and 81 years for women. They are considered among the healthiest in the world. The state has 240 doctors and 82 dentists for every 100,000 people. In Oahu, there are 11 major hospitals. While heart disease and cancer are leading causes of death in Hawaii, sunburn is one of the most common ailments. 14
Media
Two daily newspapers, The Honolulu Advertiser, and The Star-Bulletin, serve Honolulu. There are several weeklies, including some that cater to immi-
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grant communities. The major networks, ABC, CBS, NBC, and FOX, have local affiliates. Oceanic Cable offers dozens of channels to subscribers. Major West Coast newspapers often reach Honolulu readers on the day of publication, and The New York Times offers home delivery. 15
Sports
There are no professional sports teams in Hawaii, but in Honolulu, the University of Hawaii provides plenty of action. Women’s and men’s NCAA volleyball is quite popular, with some of the more competitive matches played in front of sell-out crowds. The Wahine (women) have won several national titles. The university football team had a rough decade in the 1990s but finished the 1999 season with a winning record. Water sports rule in Hawaii, especially in Oahu, which has nearly 600 surfing sites, including the famous Banzai Pipeline. North Shore, about a halfhour's drive north of Honolulu, is host to some of the most important surfing and body board events in the world. During the winter, waves reach six to nine meters (20 to 30 feet) in height, with some breaks as high as 12 meters (40 feet). Summer is the best time to surf on the south shore. Outrigger canoe racing is one of the fastest growing sports in the islands. In January 2000, public school authorities were considering making it an official sport.
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Honolulu 16
Parks and Recreation
Oahu has more than 60 beach parks, including the large Ala Moana, just west of Waikiki. Beach parks are popular with Oahu families. During weekends at Ala Moana, many people arrive at the break of dawn to reserve some of the more popular spots. Large extended families spend the entire day at the park, cooking, and playing games. Kapiolani Park, home to the city's zoo, also is a popular park. A large section is dedicated to sports fields, including soccer, rugby and softball. There is plenty of hiking in the nearby mountains, with trails that lead to waterfalls and gorgeous views of Honolulu. Diamond Head, an extinct volcano, offers one of the most popular walks in the city. 17
Performing Arts
Honolulu has a lively, albeit modest, performing arts scene. Diamond Head Theater has been staging Broadway shows, revivals, and musicals for 84 years. Kumu Kahua Theater promotes Hawaii's cultural heritage. The Hawaii Theater, with seating for 1,400 people, hosts many community gatherings and performances. The John F. Kennedy Theater at the University of Hawaii is home to the department of theater and art. The Neal S. Blaisdell Center is home to the Honolulu Symphony Orchestra. The Royal Hawaiian Band, founded in 1836 by order of King Kamehameha III, is the only full-time municipal band in the United States.
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18
Libraries and Museums
The Bishop Museum and Planetarium holds more than 20 million artifacts from Hawaiian and Polynesian history, the world’s largest collection. The Honolulu Academy of Arts has exhibits on Western and Asian art. It is home to the Kress Collection of Italian Renaissance paintings. The Contemporary Museum has many important art pieces. The Hawaii Maritime Center features Pacific maritime history. The Mission Houses Museum displays the history of early missionary settlements in Hawaii. The Judiciary History Center, located in the historic Ali'iolani Hale, has exhibits on nineteenth-century legal and judicial processes that shaped the Kingdom of Hawaii and the islands' territorial years. The U.S. Army Museum of Hawaii, located at Fort DeRussy on the western end of Waikiki, focuses on the history of the army in Hawaii. The Honolulu Library is located downtown and has several branches throughout Oahu. 19
To u r i s m
Tourism is the most important source of income in Hawaii. Honolulu and other communities have developed a sophisticated travel industry to care for visitors. Honolulu ranks first in tourist arrivals. Some of the state's most visited attractions are within its boundaries. In Oahu, most of the tourism activity is centered in the Waikiki district of Honolulu. With more than 30,000 hotel rooms, luxury resorts,
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Honolulu expensive international restaurants and shops, and beautiful beaches, Waikiki attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors each year. In Honolulu, and nearby, the most visited sites have military connections. The USS Arizona Memorial and Visitors Center in Pearl Harbor ranks first among visitors, while Punchbowl Crater, home of the National Memorial Cemetery and final resting place for 34,000 veterans of World War II and the Korean (1950–53) and Vietnam (1945– 1973) wars, is a close second. The retired battleship USS Missouri was brought to Pearl Harbor in 1998 and has become a major visitor attraction. The Queen Emma Summer Palace also is a favorite destination. Iolani Palace, the only royal palace in the United States, was built in 1882. It is located in downtown Honolulu. 20
Holidays and Festivals
Tourism is the most important industry in Honolulu, bringing in between $8 and $9 billion annually. Waikiki Beach is just one of the many beaches that attracts tourists. (Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp)
JANUARY New Year's Day Martin Luther King's Day Chinese New Year (January or March)
FEBRUARY Presidents Day
FEBRUARY-MARCH Cherry Blossom Festival
MARCH
MAY Lei Day (May 1) Japanese Boy's Day (May 5) Memorial Day
JUNE King Kamehameha Day (June 11)
Japanese Girl's Day (March 3) Prince Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole Day (March 26)
JULY
MARCH-APRIL
Admission Day (anniversary of Hawaiian statehood) Samoan Flag Day Obon (Japanese festival that honors deceased ancestors)
Good Friday (the Friday before Easter)
APRIL Buddha's Birthday (April 8) Father Damien Day (April 15)
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Independence Day (July 4)
AUGUST
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Honolulu SEPTEMBER Labor Day
SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER Aloha Week
OCTOBER Columbus Day
NOVEMBER General Election Day Veterans Day (November 11)
DECEMBER Pearl Harbor Day (December 7)
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Famous Citizens
Princess Ka'iulani (1875–99), next in line to be queen until the overthrow ended her dreams, the Princess traveled to Washington D.C. to convince U.S. officials to restore sovereignty to Hawaii. Queen Emma (1836–85), known for her charitable causes, one of Hawaii’s most remarkable queens, founded hospitals and schools. Queen Lili'uokalani (1838–1917), last Hawaiian monarch, overthrown in 1893. 22
For Further Study
Websites Arizona Memorial Museum Association. [Online] Available http://members.aol.com/ azmemph/index.htm (accessed January 25, 2000). Contemporary Museum of Art. [Online] Available http://www.tcmhi.org (accessed January 25, 2000). The Hawaii Opera. [Online] Available http:// www.hawaiiopera.com (accessed January 25, 2000). Hawaii Theater. [Online] Available http:// www.hawaiitheater.com (accessed January 25, 2000). The Honolulu Academy of Arts. [Online] Avail-
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able http://www.honoluluacademy.org (accessed January 25, 2000). Japanese Cultural Center of Hawaii. [Online] Available http://www.jcch.com (accessed January 25, 2000). Kapiolani Community College. [Online] Available http://www.kcc.hawaii.edu (accessed January 25, 2000). Oahu Transit Services, Inc. [Online] Available http://www.thebus.org (accessed January 25, 2000). State Museum of Natural History. [Online] Available http://www.bishop.hawaii.org (accessed January 25, 2000). University of Hawaii, Manoa Campus. [Online] Available http://www.hawaii.edu (accessed January 25, 2000).
Government Offices City and County of Honolulu Mayor’s Office 530 S. King Street Honolulu, HI 96813 (808) 523-4141 Fax 527-5552 Internet page for the City and County of Honolulu. [Online] Available http:// www.cchnl.oceanic.com (accessed January 25, 2000). Hawaii State Judiciary. [Online] Available http:// www.state.hi.us/jud (accessed January 25, 2000). The Honolulu Police Department. [Online] Available http://www.honolulupd.org (accessed January 25, 2000).
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Hawaii Visitors and Convention Center. [Online] Available http://www.gohawaii.com/hokeo/ index.html (accessed January 25, 2000).
Publications Honolulu Advertiser. [Online] Available http:// www.honoluluadvertiser.com (accessed January 25, 2000). Star Bulletin. [Online] Available http:// www.starbulletin.com (accessed January 25, 2000). Honolulu Weekly. [Online] Available http:// www.honoluluweekly.com (accessed January 25, 2000). Honolulu’s business weekly. [Online] Available http://www.amcity.com/pacific/ (accessed
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Honolulu January 25, 2000). Downtown Planet. [Online] Available http:// www.downtownplanet.com (accessed January 25, 2000). Hawaii Public Television. [Online] Available http://www.khet.org (accessed January 25, 2000).
Books Allen, Helena G. The Betrayal of Lili'uokalani: Last Queen of Hawaii. Honolulu: Mutual Publishing, 1990. Ambrose, Greg. Surfer's Guide to Hawaii: Hawaii Gets All the Breaks. Honolulu: Bess Press, 1991. Grant, Glen, Douglas Peebles (photographer). From the Skies of Paradise, Oahu. Honolulu: Mutual Publishing, 1992.
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Kanahele, George S. Emma: Hawaii's Remarkable Queen. Honolulu: The Queen Emma Foundation, 1999. Kanahele, George S. Hawaiian Music and Musicians: An Illustrated History. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1979. Kawena Pukui, Mary, Samuel H. Elbert, and Esther T. Mookini. Place Names of Hawaii. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1996. Kent, Joel K. Hawaii: Islands under the Influence. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1993. Linnéa, Sharon. Princess Ka'iulani: Hope of a Nation, Heart of a People. Grand Rapids, Michigan; Cambridge: Eerdmans Books for Young Readers, 1999. Trask, Haunani-Kay. From A Native Daughter: Colonialism and Sovereignty in Hawai‘i. Honolulu: University of Hawaii, 1999.
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Houston Houston, Texas, United States of America, North America Founded: August 30, 1836 Location: Eastern Texas, Galveston Bay coastal prairie, United States, North America Flower: Bluebonnet (Texas state flower) Time Zone: 6 AM Central Standard Time (CST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: 64.7% White, 19.2% Black, 0.3% American Indian, 3.9% Asian, 22.9% Hispanic, 11.9% Other Elevation: 41 feet (12m) Latitude and Longitude: 29°46’N, 95°W Coastline: 51 mi (82 km) northwest of the Gulf of Mexico Climate: Maritime climate, tropical almost year round. Hot, humid summers and very mild winters. Annual Mean Temperature: 48°F (9°C) in January to 88°F (31°C) in August Seasonal Average Snowfall: Almost nonexistent Average Annual Precipitation: 45 in (1,145 mm) Government: Mayor-council Weights and Measures: Standard US Monetary Units: Standard US Telephone Area Codes: 713, 281 Postal Codes: 77002, 77336, 77338, 77339, 77346, 77357, 77365, 77373, 77375, 77388, 77396, 77401, 77429, 77447, 77449, 77450, 77469, 77478, 77484, 77489, 77493, 77504, 77506, 77520, 77530, 77532, 77536, 77546, 77547, 77571, 77573, 77587, 77598
1
Introduction
Houston, also known as the Bayou City, is located near the Gulf of Mexico on the coastal prairie of Galveston Bay in eastern Texas. For its city population, it is the largest in the Southern and Southwestern United States, and the fourth largest in the nation. Texas’ largest entertainment complex, the Bayou Place, is located in Houston. Finished in 1997, Bayou Place is the cornerstone of urban renewal in the 1990s, costing in excess of $23 million, with the massive size of 150,000 square feet. Yet, Bayou
Place is only one part of a revitalization and diversification project for a city that reached depression levels just a decade ago. 2
Getting There
Highways Two major interstate highways intersect in the downtown area: I-10 and I-45. Other important highways include I-90 and US-59, which converge on Houston from the north-east. US290 approaches the city from the northwest and State Highway 288 from the
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Houston
Houston Population Profile City Proper Population: 1,702,086 Area: 1,600 sq km (617.5 sq mi) Nicknames: The Bayou City, The Real Texas
Metropolitan Area Population: 3,365,000 Description: Designated as a Primary Statistical Area (PMSA) by the U.S. government Area: 4,920 sq km (1,900 sq mi) World population rank1: 82 Percentage of national population2: 1.2% Average yearly growth rate: 1.2% Ethnic composition: 64.7% white; 19.2% black; 0.3% American Indian; 3.9% Asian; 22.9% Hispanic; 11.9% other ——— 1. The Houston metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the United States’ total population living in the Houston metropolitan area.
south. While State Highway 8 forms an outer ring around the city, I-610 raps around the center of Houston, delineating its own neighborhood, the Inner Loop. As of the year 2000, the total highway system contains 16 freeways and toll roads. Bus and Railroad Service The Metropolitan Transit Authority (METRO) operates Houston’s bus transit service. Its extensive system, with more than 900 buses that run more than 100 routes, operates in the inner city and most surrounding areas. METRO also has taken on community responsibili-
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ties by providing curb-to-curb service for elderly and disabled commuters, and coordinating carpooling among drivers. Railroad service is limited, but passenger service, via AMTRAK, is accessible along the New Orleans to Los Angeles route. Greyhound Bus Lines service is also available. Airports Houston has the fourth-largest airport system in the United States and the sixth largest in the world, with approximately 2,000 flights entering the city daily. The city has two major international airports and several other regional air facilities. The George Bush Intercontinental Airport (on the north side of the city) and the William P. Hobby Airport (located southeast of downtown) provide passenger service by all major international and domestic carriers. The METRO bus system offers express transportation to most Houston sites of interest from both airports. Shipping The Port of Houston serves 200 steamship lines while it connects Houston to 250 ports worldwide. Ships enter the 84-kilometer (52-mile) inland Houston Ship Channel through Galveston Bay on the Gulf of Mexico to reach the port’s 100 wharves. The port itself is second nationally in foreign tonnage and third in total tonnage handled. As foreign trade makes up the majority of its cargo, it is within the largest Foreign Trade Zone in the United States. More
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Houston
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Houston than half of the port's export tonnage includes agricultural products. It is the number-one wheat exporter in the world and is also strong in rice and cattle exporting. Other exports include plastic materials, organic chemicals, petroleum products, fertilizers, and machinery. The Port of Houston is an essential U.S. distribution point, linked to 22,526 kilometers (14,000 miles) of commercially sailable intracoastal channels. 3
Getting Around
Houston’s transit system, METRO, has made great strides in the world’s largest network of transitways. However, automobiles still cause traffic headaches in Houston travel. METRO’s efforts have been accelerated by long traffic delays, especially during the morning and afternoon rush hours. Houston boasts the third-largest taxi cab fleet in the United States, with more than 2,000 vehicles in operation. Bus and Commuter Rail Service The METRO bus system is affordable and reliable. Riders can travel at a low one-way local fare, and the on-time performance record stands at 95.3 percent. The system is flexible and offers express service to the downtown shopping area and to several major medical, business, and shopping centers in the area. METRO also offers a new trolley system that provides free transportation within the downtown area.
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Sightseeing Several driving and walking tours of the Houston area are available through the Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau. Tours are also available through Tourworks Houston and Old Town Spring Tours. Churches may be toured by special appointment. Whether walking or driving, visitors will want to be sure to see Houston Museum of Natural Science, Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, and the Houston Zoological Gardens, all located in the picturesque Museum District. Moody Gardens, Space Center Houston, and Sam Houston Park are also main sites of interest. Gourmet dining can be found in the Montrose area, known for some of Houston’s finest restaurants. Sightseers may also want to check out Enron Field, the home of the Houston Astros baseball team. 4
People
Houston is the fourth most populous city in the United States. In 1995, city of Houston population statistics registered at 1,702,086. In the metropolitan area, the population count stood at 3,710,844. Home to 68 international consular offices and more than 100 different nationalities, Dallas Morning News’ Texas Almanac lists the Houston metropolitan area racial composition as 64.7 percent White, 19.2 percent Black, 3.9 percent Asian, 0.3 percent American Indian, and 11.9 percent other; regardless of race, 22.9 percent of the total population were Hispanic, an ethnic rather than racial distinction.
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Houston
City Fact Comparison Houston (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
3,365,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1836
753 BC
723 BC
$172
$129
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$72
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$40
$56
$59
$62
$2
$14
$15
$16
$114
$173
$246
$207
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.) Total daily costs
$193
Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
1
13
20
11
Houston Chronicle
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
550,763
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1901
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
5
Neighborhoods
Houston is basically divided into four major areas: Inner Loop, North Houston, Northeast Houston, and South Houston. Each area is representative of the city’s diverse population and living styles. Neighborhoods are grouped into one of these areas according to geographic location. The Inner Loop The Inner Loop is a miniature version of the greater Houston area. It is easily noticeable as I-610 defines the area’s boundaries. Housing in the neighborhoods of the Inner Loop is
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diverse, ranging from apartment buildings and small houses to mansions, condominiums, and townhomes. The River Oaks neighborhood is by far the most exclusive in the Houston area. Situated south of Memorial Park, River Oaks was founded by Mike and Will Hogg, the sons of James Hogg, former Texas governor. The neighborhood has abundant white-columned mansions, complete with painstakingly tended gardens and even separate maids’ quarters. This neighborhood is in fact so exclusive that deed restrictions on houses forbid the use of “For Sale” signs. In this neighborhood, houses are sold starting at $400,000. To
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Houston labeled it one of the most marvelous streets in the country. North Houston North Houston has more defining characteristics than other areas, with its older smaller neighborhoods completed in the 1930s and 1940s. Where young people once left the area in droves, now many professional couples are attracted by the relatively easy downtown commute and the many tree-lined streets. This area symbolizes neighborhood renewal, not through new concrete and steel but through housing renovation in the old neighborhoods.
keep up the prestige, the neighborhood’s streets are named after notable golf and country clubs from across the country.
The Woodlands neighborhoods are appropriately named, with a quiet and spacious atmosphere complete with an abundance of greenery. Housing in the Woodlands, though almost all constructed in the 1970s, is characterized by the use of brick, and some of the houses have up to two acres of land. There is also a 1,000-acre Research Forest set aside especially for nonprofit and academic research institutes and industry.
The South Main neighborhood’s most notable institution is the Texas Medical Center, which keeps 51,000 Houstonians employed in 41 different departments. A smaller division of South Main is Boulevard Oaks. Appropriately named, the section has gained notoriety for its beautiful old oak trees, originally planted in magnificent geometric patterns along the streets. One particular street became internationally recognized when The New York Times
The small town of Conroe is situated about 56 kilometers (35 miles) from Houston. In the late 1800s, Isaac Conroe built a sawmill in the area, and it was consequently named after him. By 1903 the town became the county seat, and by 1930s Conroe became emblematic of Texas itself. It was during this time that oilman George Strake unearthed “black gold,” the discovery that really put Conroe on the map. Conroe is notable for its many available
Houston skyline. (Mike Yamashita; Woodfin Camp)
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Houston country properties. Some plots are so large (24 to 40 hectares/60 to 100 acres or more) that horses and other livestock are permitted.
many residents to work in the Texas City area. Today, South Houston is one of the quickest expanding areas in the entire region.
Northeast Houston
Clear Lake is home to the third largest boating center in the United States, the NASA Johnson Space Center, various computer and petrochemical industries, and Hobby Airport is only a few miles away. Originally an agricultural and fishing locale, the federal government’s decision to locate NASA’s Space Center in Clear Lake helped its development tremendously. Twentyseven percent of the area’s population is employed by aerospace-related companies, and recreation and tourism account for more than 25 percent of the work force. Space Center Houston opened in October 1992. Situated on a 16-hectare (40-acre) visitor center, the $70 million complex depicts the history and future of manned space flight through a visual timeline. Walt Disney created various programs and hands-on exhibits for Space Center Houston, including Imagineering, which allows visitors to experience the inner workings of the manned space program. New housing construction is constant in Clear Lake. Waiting lists have been established because of the extreme shortage of homes and apartments, and occupancy rates are close to 100 percent.
Northeast Houston allows for small-town rural living only minutes away from the big city. It is especially attractive for its recreation areas, including Lake Houston and several golf courses. Known as Hunter’s Paradise to early settlers, Humble (pronounced “Umble”) was named after P. S. Humble, a settler who in the mid-1800s operated a ferry across the San Jacinto River. Though there is spacious, rural living in Humble, it is only minutes away from Houston by way of Highway 59. The George Bush Intercontinental Airport employs a large number of Humble residents. Sitting on heavily wooded territory ten kilometers (six miles) east of Humble is Atascocita. Coming from the Spanish word for “obstruction,” Atascocita was once employed as a stronghold of the Spanish government against the French. The area is characterized by both large country-club homes and meticulously planned subdivisions, offering smaller houses. South Houston The south Houston area is located along I-45, nicknamed the “Gulf Freeway.” This area developed around rice farms, orange and fig orchards. In the 1930s, oil field development allowed
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Southwest Houston The southwest area of Houston (encompassing part of Harris and all of Fort Bend County) is one of the most expansive areas. Home to several manu-
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Houston facturing and electronic firms, Fort Bend is notable as one of the fastestgrowing regions in the country. Between 1980 and 1990, the population of the county increased more than 50 percent. In fact, the county was ranked with the top ten fastest growing counties in America in 1994. The communities of Alief and Sharpstown experienced major growth spurts in the 1960s and 1970s. Brick tract homes are prevalent in the area, being small and mid-sized, but the importance of the area is its plurality. In the Alief-Sharpstown area, many cultural and ethnic influences are evident, including African American, Asian, and Hispanic communities. Imperial Sugar, the state’s oldest company, is located in an area appropriately named Sugar Land. Still in operation, the sugar refinery is located in the city’s old business district. Residents of Sugar Land are recreation-oriented with three highly ranked golf courses. The George Observatory, the largest publicly used observatory, is located nearby, along with Brazos Bend State Park. First Colony was the first Anglo settlement in what was once Hispanic Texas, hence its name. Led by William B. Travis early in the 1830s, 300 colonists settled north of what is now Richmond, on the banks of the Brazos River. The area’s fertile soil was historically the basis of sugar cane, cattle, and rice cultivation. Today, First Colony is representative of the growth of greater Houston. Many of the homes in the master-
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planned community are new, most of them less than ten years old. 6
History
In the 1820s, American settlers began driving into Texas. At the time, it was in the best interest of Texas territory owner, the newly independent Mexico, to allow these American immigrants to settle. In 1824, a New Yorker named John Richardson Harris (d. 1829) established the town of Harrisburg, today within the corporate limits of southeastern Houston. Harris was looking for a waterway location, easily reachable by ocean and land traffic. He established his claim at the confluence of Buffalo and Bray’s Bayous, a prime navigational area. By 1826 the settlement became a lively naval trading post, but by 1829 Harris had died of yellow fever, and his heirs quickly became deeply embroiled in litigation over the prosperous estate. The brothers Augustus C. and John K. Allen, themselves New Yorkers, arrived in Texas in 1832 and quickly took interest in the Harrisburg estate. However, the immense cost for the land and the legal fight over the Harrisburg property at the time stifled the Allen brothers’ plans. In the 1830s, American immigrants changed their names to “Texicans,” yet quickly began to feel oppressed by Mexican forces. The Texicans, feeling abused by the dictates of Mexico City, simultaneously declared Texas an independent republic and at war with the government of Santa Anna in 1836. During the Texas revolution, the Allen
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Houston brothers served as supply agents for the Texan cause, and Harrisburg temporarily held the Texan government. Yet when Santa Anna (1797–1876), the socalled “Napoleon of the West,” reached Harrisburg, he entered a flaming hulk. The residents of Harrisburg evacuated and torched their town after hearing the news that Santa Anna was approaching. The angry Mexicans then finished the job. The complete destruction of Harrisburg was a sad development for many residents, especially the Harris family, but to the Allen brothers it was a new opportunity. Immediately planning another town nearby, the Allens decided on a site at the head of tide on Buffalo Bayou. They knew that pioneer Texans needed outside supplies and that the easiest way to get them was by water. Though other waterways in the region were rather shallow and often congested with debris, Buffalo Bayou was wide and clear. It had substantial banks and was deeper than the others. Yet, the Buffalo Bayou was on a desolate stretch of prairie; alligators slithered through the bayous; Indians stalked the woods; mud and mosquitoes were a constant nuisance; and yellow fever menaced the populous. To smite the obstacles in their path, the brothers named the town for Sam Houston and even prematurely planned a capital and congressional building. Sam Houston, the first president of the Republic of Texas, moved his capital from Columbia to Houston. In 1837, Houston was incorporated with a population of 1,200, and the capital remained there until Austin
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Sam Houston (1793–1863), for whom the city was named, was the first president of the Republic of Texas. (Leo Touchet; Woodfin Camp)
became Texas’ permanent seat of government in 1839. As a result of substantial pressure by Texans, the Republic officially disbanded and became the twenty-eighth state of the United States in July, 1845. Houston grew as a settlement despite the numerous problems that emerged. Rainfall was heavy, and drainage was poor. Fires and floods ravaged the city, and differing epidemics scourged the populous. From the late 1830s to the late 1850s, the railroad became important both as a means of
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Houston travel for Houstonians and for shipment of goods. The Civil War (1861–65) was at first a benefit to Houston. The flour mill continued to produce; cartridges were manufactured at the court house; and there was considerable local production of drugs, leather goods, candles, and printer’s ink. However, in the end, the Civil War was devastating to the city, not just in the amount of human lives lost from Houston, but in the destruction of railroads. One railroad did manage to avoid destruction, the Houston and Texas Central, which the military preserved for their exclusive use. After the Civil War, Houston continued to grow through the expansion of commerce. Manufacturing (particularly by means of lumber taken from surrounding forests) was important, but like elsewhere on the frontier, it took a backseat to other commercial activity. By 1870, Houston had 9,000 citizens, which marked it as the third-largest city in Texas. At that time, Houston was primarily a distribution center with inadequate means of transportation. Therefore, attempts were made in the following decades to deepen the Houston waterway in order to allow for bigger ships to reach port, yet this had varying success. The discovery of oil in 1901 at Spindletop, near Houston, helped Houston’s economy by acting as a catalyst for the eventual construction of oil refineries, pipe lines, and a large petrochemical industry. Reshaping the Buffalo Bayou into a shipping channel helped shipping to grow immensely as it hastened to suit the dissemination of
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oil and oil products between 1915 and 1929. Houston’s rapid growth during these years changed the physical characteristics and architecture to suit the growth of manufacturing. By the 1930s this partnership allowed Houston to surpass San Antonio’s population and become the largest city in the then-largest state in America. Despite the American Depression in the 1930s (and afterwards), transportation facilities in Houston continued to improve. The most dramatic transportation improvement had to do with air travel. Following World War II (1939–45), the petrochemical industry in Houston grew even more. A major development for the city had to do with a choice by the federal government. The National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) chose to place their new Manned Spacecraft Center in Houston in 1961. As the United States entered into a space race with the Soviet Union, Houston found itself the home of famous astronauts and engineers, world-famous surgeons and the Astros baseball team. The first word in a message sent from the moon gave the city recognition as it echoed across the globe: “Houston, Tranquillity Base here, the Eagle has landed.” Scientific advances introduced new methods of transportation in Houston, but they also destroyed old methods as well. The old Union Station in Houston ushered in and out approximately 40 trains a day in the 1950s. By the late 1960s, the passenger trains numbered only about three a day in Houston. Air
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Houston travel, busses, and automobiles replaced the old train system. The Arab Oil Embargo of 1973 troubled many Americans at the gas pumps, where lines were long, and gasoline prices skyrocketed. Yet, for Houston this event was a miracle. With the sharp rise in oil prices, stock prices doubled and tripled, dumping massive amounts of capital into Houston. Skyscrapers designed by world-class architects dramatically changed Houston’s skyline and became monuments to Houston’s investment in “black gold.” In 1983 alone, 155 office buildings were completed. Industrial workers flocked to Houston to be a part of this massive growth as companies expanded. In many ways Houston became a oneindustry town. By the late 1980s, the chemical industry produced about 50 percent of the total United States output. Yet with the major energy companies placing their headquarters in Houston, and thousands of energyrelated businesses in the area, the city was set for a decline. During the 1980s, the city reached depression levels as the economy continued to spiral downward. The answer lay in diversification. Shifting away from reinvestments in the oil market, Houston revitalized in the 1990s with capital in its entertainment, recreation, medical, and aerospace industries. In the late 1990s, Houston gained recognition not only as the capital of the international energy industry, but also as home of the world’s largest medical center. It has become one of the
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country’s premier visual, architectural, multicultural, and performing arts centers. It has greatly expanded its shopping areas and malls as well. Most important, however, has been Houston’s urban growth and population surge. In 1995, the population had reached 3,710,844, the nation’s fourthlargest city in metropolitan polls. 7
Government
Houston is the official seat of Harris County, operating under a mayorcouncil form of government. In 1992, the total number of City employees was 21,045. 8
Public Safety
Several public safety programs operate out of Houston’s City Hall. The Office for Public Safety and Drug Policy employs the Office of Anti-Gang Activities, responsible for developing city initiatives to reduce gang and youth violence. Houston Crackdown coordinates and supports community volunteer projects in alcohol and drug abuse. The Mayor’s Office administers the Crime Victims’ Assistance Program, referring crime victims to legal and counseling services. In the year 2000, the City of Houston began sponsoring a new non-emergency service number: 3– 1–1. The 3–1–1 program is designed to handle service requests, such as pothole repairs, and alleviate 9–1–1 non-emergency calls.
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Houston
Houston is an international and corporate business center, boasting 15 Fortune 500 companies, as well as a leading city in energy, medical and technical, and chemical industries. (Dan Budnik; Woodfin Camp)
9
Economy
Since the economic recession of the 1980s, Houston has been one of the nation’s leaders in high-growth private enterprise. A major international and corporate business center, there are 15 Fortune 500 companies located there.
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Although energy has been the primary growth catalyst in Houston’s economy since oil was discovered in 1901, the Houston of the 1990s is a city no longer dependent on the energy industry. Over 220,000 jobs were lost during the economic recession of the 1980s.
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Houston However, even during the recession’s oil and gas crisis, energy technology, expertise, and resources stayed in the area. Houston remained a leading city in energy production and home to more than 5,000 energy-related companies. Today it is the home of major U.S. energy firms in every sector of the energy business. Yet, even with all the expertise and resources in the energy field, Houston has managed to diversify its economy enough to break its total dependence the energy industry and branch out to other fields. Houston has taken center stage as the primary player in manned spaceflight with NASA’s Johnson Space Center. Originally opened in 1962, the $761 million complex became the national focal point for manned space flight. Today, the complex remains a crucial center of technological development, pumping almost $3.7 million per working day into the economy of Houston, and employing nearly 17,000 people. High-technology and medicine companies have also grown as Houston has climbed out of its recession. A $25 million Institute of Biosciences and Technology was constructed by Texas A & M University, and the Texas Center for Superconductivity at the University of Houston was constructed out of state funds. The Texas Medical Center also ranks Houston as a prime location for the development of modern high-technology medicine in the United States. The Center has 39 institutions that occupy over 223 hectares (550 acres) and employ more than 50,000 people. Houston’s total health employment
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exceeds 100,000. The development of high technology and medicine have strengthened Houston’s economy and made it a national leader in these fields as well. Houston has emerged as a world leader in the chemical industry. Over 45 percent of the basic chemicals that are used by downstream chemical ventures are manufactured in Houston. Approximately 80 inorganic (most notably, about half of the nation’s synthetic rubber) and 300 organic products are produced near Houston. Home to four of the nation’s ten major liquid gas pipelines, the world’s most developed pipeline network with specialty and derivative chemicals, Houston is a major manufacturing center. In terms of tonnage handled, the Port of Houston is the eighth largest in the world. Served by hundreds of different steamship lines, Houston is connected to 250 ports worldwide. Boasting the largest Foreign Trade Zone in the United States, the Port of Houston owes more than half of its cargo to foreign trade. More than half of the Port’s export tonnage can be attributed to agricultural products. 10
Environment
Houston is situated in the Texas Coastal Plains region, which rises from sea level to about 305 meters (1,001 feet). Near the Gulf Coast, these lands are marshy; however, as they stretch inland, they become flat, low prairies and at Houston form a fertile crescent
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Houston that is well suited to farming and grazing for fine-breed cattle. An inland port city, Houston is linked to the Gulf of Mexico, 82 kilometers (51 miles) southeast, by the Houston Ship Channel and Intracoastal Waterway at Galveston. Access to water transportation, raw materials, and natural gas and oil reserves have made the Coastal Plains the most densely populated part of the state and the center of Texas industry, with Houston as the hub. Within Houston city limits, the Mayor’s Office of Environmental Policy employs the Brownfields Program. This program is designed to facilitate reuse of eligible properties identified as Houston “brownfields,” including abandoned, idled, or under-used industrial or commercial properties with environmental contamination. Qualifying sites are chosen based on which will generate the greatest potential employment opportunities and most evident community benefits. 11
Shopping
With a wide variety of malls and specialty stores, shopping in Houston can be an overwhelming experience. A little planning is necessary to determine which shopping area is best suited for any given shopping spree. The center of the city’s downtown shopping district is Foley’s, the oldest department store in Houston. A wellnoted shopping area, the Post Oak Galleria is for the posh shopper. The High-
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land Village Shopping Center is also distinguished in nature, though it is still expanding. A well-rounded retail area is Rice Village, which offers over 325 stores, ranging from national chains to more quaint local businesses. Houston’s oldest shopping district is River Oaks Shopping Center, which has more than 65 shops. A particularly strong market is antiques and collectibles. Designer showrooms and antique stores characterize the Upper Kirby District, noted for its Gallery Row, which is a focal point for many local Houston artists. Another area for antique dealers is Houston Heights Antiques Co-op, though the Antique Center of Texas is much larger. For more of an open-air experience in shopping, there is the Old Town Spring and Galveston’s Strand that offer not only antiques but art galleries and smaller shops. In addition to these shopping centers, the Houston area has over 30 different malls. The Bayou City definitely offers one of the largest concentrations of shopping areas in the country. 12
Education
The nation’s largest school district, the Houston Independent School District, covers 808 square kilometers (312 square miles) and encompasses 230 different schools. With 10,000 teachers on the job, total enrollment in 1992 stood at 194,512, and more than 8,000 students were reported to graduate annu-
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Houston ally. Specially developed programs are available. The district offers gifted, multilingual, pre-kindergarten, special needs, and vocational occupational programs. There are also more than 300 private schools in the community as well. One of America’s leading collegiate academic centers, Houston boasted 230,000 college students in 1992. There are more than 30 universities, private, junior, and public colleges. The largest school is the University of Houston while the oldest is Rice University. Another major academic center is Texas Southern University. Noteworthy medical training programs are offered at the University of Texas Health Science Center and the Baylor College of Medicine. 13
Health Care
Houston is home to the world’s largest medical complex. There are 51 hospitals in a city noted as a world leader in medicine. At the Texas Medical Center alone, there are more than 3.5 million patients treated by a staff of over 50,000. Within the Center itself, there are 41 major organizations. Seventy health organizations operate ambulances while sharing four helicopters for emergency transportation. Houston’s medical community is widely known for its contributions in the areas of cancer research and therapy, trauma and cardiac care, and innovative medical treatment. Its most widely known institutions include St. Luke’s Episcopal Hospital, Shriners Hospital for Crippled Children, Veterans
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Affairs Medical Center, and Texas Children’s hospital. 14
Media
Television stations serving the Houston area (excluding cable television programming) include three network affiliates, five independents, and the nation’s first public broadcasting television station. The city has over 50 AM and FM radio stations that broadcast everything from the news to blues. Houston has two primary daily papers, the Houston Post and the Houston Chronicle. Other noteworthy newspapers are the Houston Press and the Houston Business Journal Weekly. 15
Sports
Houston’s professional baseball team, the National League Astros, and their professional NFL football team, the Oilers, both play in the Astrodome. The National Basketball Association’s Houston Rockets play at the Summit. Houston’s collegiate teams also field most major sports. Professional golf plays to spectators of the Houston Open, and professional tennis can be seen at the Virginia Slims Tennis Tournament. Gulf Greyhound Park, the world’s largest pari-mutuel greyhound racetrack, and the Sam Houston Race Park for horseracing are available for racing fans as well. 16
Parks and Recreation
Houston hosts a vast parks system. Hermann Park encompasses the Hous-
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Houston
The Astrodome was built to accommodate Houston’s professional baseball team, the National League Astros, and its pro-NFL football team, the Oilers. (Leo Touchet; Woodfin Camp)
ton Zoo, a children’s zoo, a planetarium, a natural science museum, a garden center, and an IMAX Theater. Memorial Park offers herb gardens, an arboretum, and a botanical hall. Sam Houston Park, with six historical buildings, is located downtown, and Tranquility Park is located in the Houston Civic Center. The Harris County Park system includes the Mercer Arboretum and Bay Area Park, and Armand Bayou Park and Nature Center, offering a wilderness preserve and farm. 17
Performing Arts
Houston lore says that in June 1838 the city’s first theatrical performance was given amidst a true-to-life drama. Then-President Sam Houston
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was late to the performance, and in his absence the town gamblers took his seats. After ignoring an appeal to vacate the seats, the sheriff entered with soldiers who lined up against a wall. The gamblers quickly lined up on the other side. President Houston arrived in time to halt the showdown by giving an executive order for the soldiers to lower their arms. The gamblers then exited, giving a dramatic flare to the first theater performance of Houston. Houston’s performing arts scene has been growing steadily since the 1950s, centered in the Theater District where musical theater, opera, music, dramatic theater and ballet coexist. Musical theater especially draws large crowds in the city. There are two
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Houston notable organizations that host musicals in the District. The Theater Under the Stars produces popular musicals. The Houston Broadway Series, a division of Pace Concerts, shows a selection of the best hits on Broadway each season, including musicals, plays, and solo performances. The Houston Grand Opera offers classical opera pieces so often that it is not unusual to catch two different operas in the same weekend. Both classical and modern music are also popular in the Houston arts scene. Da Camera of Houston is acclaimed for its classical music and unconventional performances, but for mainstream music lovers it also features string ensembles, solo recitals, and jazz groups. The Houston Symphony is renowned for superb concerts of contemporary and classical music. The Society for the Performing Arts’ productions do not easily fit into the classification of theater alone. For instance, the Houston Ballet boasts a permanent company as part of the Society. The Alley Theatre won the 1996 Special Tony Award for outstanding regional theater and attracts an everincreasing crowd. The Ensemble Theatre, the oldest and largest professional African-American theater in the southwest, moved into their remodeled theater in 1997. The Ensemble is noted for their diverse selection of historical and contemporary works. Mixing of dance, music, theater, and more, the Society brings an eclectic accent to Houston’s performing arts scene.
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Libraries and Museums
There are more than 3.4 million books in collection at the two main library systems in Houston, which together comprise 52 branches. The Houston Public Library system consists of 33 branches and the Clayton Library for Genealogical Research. In addition to its downtown library, it boasts a 30,936 square-meter (333,000 squarefoot) facility, housing over two million volumes. An additional 23 branches and two bookmobiles make up the Harris County Public Library system. There are other specialized libraries in Houston as well, ranging from medical to legal subjects. As for museums, the list of specialized museums in Houston’s Museum District continues to grow. Of importance is the Holocaust Museum Houston, which continues to educate people in the Houston area about the European pogrom. Another notable museum is the Houston Museum of Natural Science, which houses a museum, IMAX Theater, planetarium, butterfly tropical rainforest, a satellite facility, and a Challenger Center. Built in homage of the city’s health industry, the Museum of Health and Medical Science features an interactive walking tour through a huge-sized body. Handson learning is encouraged for both educational and entertainment purposes. The facility holds two theaters as well.
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Houston flight program, and home to the twotime world champion Houston Rockets. With more than 38,000 hotel rooms around the city, accommodations can be found to meet any budget or interest. Special packages are available for almost any penchant—recreation, relaxation, romance, entertainment, special events, sports, or family vacation. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Confederate Heroes Day Martin Luther King, Jr. Day Houston-Tenneco Marathon
FEBRUARY The Houston Livestock Show and Rodeo Mardi Gras! Galveston Whether it is touring the wildlife preserves, shopping at Post Oak Galleria, or just taking a relaxing drive through Houston’s posh neighborhoods, Houston is a city for everyone. (Leo Touchet; Woodfin Camp)
MARCH Texas Independence Day St. Patrick’s Day Parade Fotofest
APRIL
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To u r i s m
San Jacinto Day Houston International Festival
MAY
The largest city in Texas, as well as the fourth-largest city in the United States, Houston is a popular tourist destination for both foreign and domestic visitors. Offering something for everyone, the Bayou City hosts wildlife preserves, the world’s richest rodeo, leading fine and performing arts institutions. It is the capital of the international energy industry, home to the world’s largest medical center, headquarters for America’s manned space
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Cinco De Mayo Celebration
JUNE Emancipation Day/Juneteenth Celebration
JULY Independence Day/Freedom Festival
AUGUST Lyndon B. Johnson’s Birthday Houston International Jazz Festival Justin World Bull Riding Championship
SEPTEMBER Fiestas Patrias
MID-SEPTEMBER TO NOVEMBER Oktoberfest
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Houston OCTOBER Greek Festival Texas Renaissance Festival.
William Marsh Rice (b. Massachusetts, 1816–1900), businessman, established Rice Institute.
NOVEMBER Thanksgiving Day/Bank United’s and Foley’s Thanksgiving Day Parades Mayor’s Downtown Houston Holiday Celebration
DECEMBER Christmas Boat Lane Parade
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Famous Citizens
Augustus C. (1806–1864) and John K. (1810–1838) Allen, founders of the city of Houston. Monroe D. Anderson (b. Tennessee, 1873–1929), founder of Anderson, Clayton and Company in 1904, which became one of the world’s biggest cotton brokerage firms by 1930.
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For Further Study
Websites Houston Real Estate Information. [Online] Available at http://houstontexashomes.com/ neighborhoods (accessed on January 5, 2000). Houston’s history. [Online] Available at www.texasbest.com/houston/history.html (accessed on January 5, 2000). Visitor Information. [Online] Available at www.ci.houston.tx.us (accessed on January 5, 2000).
Government Offices Houston City Hall 901 Bagby St. Houston, Texas 77002 (713) 247–2200
William L. Clayton (b. Mississippi, 1880–1966), founder of Anderson, Clayton and Company.
Mayor’s Office 901 Bagby St. City Hall, 3rd Floor Houston, Texas 77002 (713) 247–2200
Hugh Roy Cullen (1881–1857), oil contractor, benefactor of the University of Houston.
Tourist and Convention Bureaus
Joseph S. Cullinan (b. Pennsylvania, (c. 1861–c. 1937), founder of the Texas Company and anti-Ku Klux Klanner. Ltn. Richard “Dick” William Dowling (b. Ireland, 1838–1867), Civil War hero. Sam Houston (1793–1863), famous general, noted as victor of San Jacinto battle, first President of Texas Republic, had city and monument named after him.
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Greater Houston Convention Bureau 801 Congress Houston, Texas 77002 (713) 227–3100
and
Visitors
Harris County Historical Society, P.O. Box 27143, Houston, TX 77027 (713) 655–1912
Publications Official Guide to Houston, Fall 1997 Published by the Greater Houston Convention and Visitors Bureau 801 Congress Houston, Texas 77002 (713) 227–3100
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Houston Books McComb, David G. Houston: the Bayou City. Austin: University of Texas Press, 1969. McMurtrey, Larry. Terms of Endearment. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1975. Schmittroth, Linda and Mary Kay Rosteck, eds. Cities of the United States, 2nd ed. Detroit,
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MI: Gale Research, 1994. Texas: A Guide to the Lone Star State. New York: Hastings House Publishers, 1947. Winningham, Geoff & Reinert, Alan. A Place of Dreams: Houston, An American City. Houston, TX: Rice University Press, 1986.
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Indianapolis Indianapolis, Indiana, United States of America, North America Founded: 1816; Incorporated: 1847 Location: Central Indiana, United States, North America Motto: Crossroads of America (state motto) Flag: Blue field with white cross; in the center, a white star on a red circle represent the center of the city. Flower: Peony (state flower) Time Zone: 7 AM Eastern Standard Time (EST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: White 77%, Black 21%, Hispanic origin 1% Elevation: 219 m (717 ft) above sea level. The city is situated on level to gently rolling terrain. Latitude and Longitude: 39º71'N, 86º09'W Coastline: None Climate: Temperate continental climate with precipitation evenly distributed throughout the year. Warm summers and cold winters that can be affected by blasts of polar air from the north. Annual Mean Temperature: 11°C (52°F); January –2ºC (28ºF); July 24ºC (75ºF) Seasonal Average Snowfall: 58 cm (23 in); Average Annual Precipitation (rainfall and melted snow): 101.3 cm (39.9 in) Government: Mayor and 29-member council Weights and Measures: Standard U.S. Monetary Units: Standard U.S. Telephone Area Codes: 317 Postal Codes: 46201–46290
1
Introduction
Indianapolis, the capital of Indiana, is the twelfth-largest city in the United States. Located on land set aside for a state capital in the early nineteenth century, it was modeled after Washington D.C., with streets radiating outward from the seat of government. Although it is not located on a navigable body of water, the city’s central location—in relation to the state and to much of the country—has made it an important transport and distribution center since the nineteenth century. Since the 1970s Indianapolis has estab-
lished a reputation as a sports center by constructing major athletic and visitor facilities and energetically promoting itself as a venue for a wide variety of amateur sporting events. However, its most famous athletic event remains the Indianapolis 500 motor race, held annually at the Indianapolis Speedway. 2
Getting There
Indianapolis is located east of the White River in central Indiana. It is the largest city in the United States that is not situated on the banks of a navigable body of water. Its major thoroughfare is
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Indianapolis Bus and Railroad Service
Indianapolis Population Profile City Proper Population: 813,670 Area: 1,043 sq km (402.8 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 77% white; 21% black Nicknames: City of Churches, Crossroads of America
Indiana is served by the Greyhound and Trailways bus lines. Both the bus station and the Amtrak train station are located in the renovated Union Station downtown on S. Illinois Street. Amtrak service is provided to Washington, D.C. and Chicago, with three weekly departures to each city.
Metropolitan Area Population: 1,002,000 Description: Nine-county area including Boone, Hendricks, Morgan, Hamilton, Marion, Johnson, Madison, Hancock, and Shelby counties Area: 8,000 sq km (3,089 sq mi) World population rank1: 364 Percentage of national population2: 0.4% Average yearly growth rate: 0.9% Ethnic composition: 85.2% white, 13.5% black, 1% Asian or Pacific Islander ——— 1. The Indianapolis metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the United States’ total population living in the Indianapolis metropolitan area.
Airports Nearly eight million passengers a year use Indianapolis International Airport, which is located seven miles southwest of downtown Indianapolis. It is the largest U.S. airport managed by a private firm (the same company that runs London’s Heathrow and Gatwick airports). Serving 18 airlines, it offers more than 175 daily departures to 76 different destinations. It is also a package-sorting hub for FedEx and a U.S. Postal Service hub as well. 3
Washington Street (I-40), which runs east-west through the city, as part of a larger grid pattern that governs the layout of the city’s streets. Highways The Indianapolis metropolitan area is ringed by I-465, which has junctions with the three major highways that pass through the city: I-70 (east-west), I69 (intersects from the northwest), and I-65 (northwest to southeast). Indianapolis has more interstate highways junctions than any other metropolitan area in the United States.
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Getting Around
The layout of Indianapolis, the nation’s twelfth-largest city, is a grid pattern modeled on that of Washington D.C. Its major thoroughfares intersect at the Soldiers’ and Sailors’ Monument, in the heart of the city. The major eastwest artery is Washington Street (I-40). The primary north-south road is Meridian Street, which is a major commercial center. Bus and Commuter Rail Service The Indiana Public Transportation Corporation (METRO) operates 138 city buses and provides service to the dis-
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Indianapolis
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Indianapolis abled through the Metro Transit Open Door program. The base fare for local mass transit is 75 cents. Sightseeing Walking tours are offered of the Mile Square area in the heart of downtown Indianapolis. 4
People
According to U.S. Census Bureau 1997 estimates, Indianapolis has a population of 813,670, up 2.1 percent since 1990 when its population was 731,327 (47 percent male, 53 percent female). The total population of the ninecounty Indianapolis Metropolitan Statistical Area (MSA) is 1.5 million, up from 1.38 million in 1990. It is the thirty-first largest metropolitan area in the United States, and Indianapolis is the twelfth-largest city. In 1990, the population of Indianapolis was 77.1 percent white; 21.1 percent African-American; 1.1 percent Hispanic; 0.2 percent American Indian; and 0.4 percent other. The city’s African-American community is the sixth largest in the Midwest and the sixteenth largest in the country. Indianapolis has historically been home to members of a variety of religions. Although the majority of its residents today are either Catholics or Protestants, over 100 different religious denominations are represented among the city’s population, including religions such as Zen Buddhism that are outside the mainstream of Western reli-
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gion. The following denominations have significant membership among residents of Indianapolis: Catholic, 84,033 members; Black Baptist, 56,403; United Methodist, 37,027; Christian Church (disciples), 20,596; Presbyterian, 17,990, and American Baptist, 11,483. There are also significant numbers of other Protestant denominations, as well as a Jewish population of 6,379. Altogether, Indianapolis has about 1,100 religious congregations. In addition, a variety of religious organizations, including the Church Federation of Indianapolis and the Islamic Society of North America, are located in the city. 5
Neighborhoods
Beginning in the 1970s there was a resurgence of interest in older residential districts in the central city, leading to the revitalization of neighborhoods such as Lockerbie Square, Woodruff Place, Old Northside, and Herron-Morton. With its cobblestone streets, Lockerbie Square, once home to poet James Whitcomb Riley (1849–1916), is regarded as an outstanding example of Victorian renovation. The Midtown area boasts fountains, bridges, walkways, and new residential and commercial construction in the hearth of the city. Chatham Arch has become an increasingly popular area for residential renovation. Other city neighborhoods include historic Fletcher Place and Fountain Square, University Heights, surrounding the University of Indianapolis, Homecroft, and the Old Northside, as well as the exclusive Meridan-
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Indianapolis
City Fact Comparison Indianapolis (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
1,002,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1816
753 BC
723 BC
$172
$129
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$65
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$40
$56
$59
$62
$2
$14
$15
$16
$107
$173
$246
$207
1
13
20
11
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.) Total daily costs
$193
Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
The Indianapolis Akhbar El Yom/ Star/News Al Akhbar 230,223
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1869
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
Kessler neighborhood. Suburban areas include Carmel, which is north of the city, and Greenwood, to the south. Since the 1970s, urban renewal projects, including the City-County Building and Riley Center, have significantly improved the quality of life in Indianapolis. There are over 300 registered neighborhood organizations in Indianapolis, including the Front Porch Alliance, which supports communityoriented efforts by churches, neighborhood associations, and other groups. In 1990 Indianapolis had a total of 319,980 housing units, and the average cost of a single-family dwelling was
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$82,864. By the beginning of 1999, this figure had risen to $125,307. 6
History
Like Washington, D.C., on which it was modeled, Indianapolis is a city deliberately planned as a capital. In 1820 the state legislature of Indiana selected ten commissioners to choose a site for the state capital, which was established at the site of a small, recently formed settlement called Fall Creek, chosen for its location at virtually the exact center of the state. Ten square kilometers (four square miles) were allocated for the new capital although only two-and-a-half square
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Indianapolis
The streets of Indianapolis were planned to branch out from a central circle, which features the Soldiers’ and Sailors’ Monument. (Sandy Felsenthal; Woodfin Camp)
kilometers (one square mile) were initially plotted. The city was designed by Alexander Ralston, who had assisted Pierre L’Enfant (1754–1825) in the plans for the nation’s capital, and the new city was similarly designed as a grid of streets radiating outward from a central circle in which the seat of government was to be situated. The name “Indianapolis” (Indiana plus polis, the Greek word for “city”) was chosen in 1821. It took a while until the city grew significantly, at least partly because it was not situated near a navigable body
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of water—the nearby White River was too shallow for navigation. However, with the construction of the National Road (today I-40) through the city in 1830 and the completion of the Central Canal in 1839, industrial activity increased, and the arrival of the first rail lines in 1847 provided access to the Ohio River, eventually turning Indianapolis into a commercial center. By mid-century, immigration, especially by Germans, increased the city’s population to 18,611 by the beginning of the Civil War.
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Indianapolis During the last two decades of the nineteenth century, the city underwent significant development that included the construction of Union Station and a new statehouse, as well as the introduction of paved streets and, in 1881, electric street lights (among the first in any American city). In the 1890s an enduring link between Indianapolis and the automobile was forged with the development by Charles H. Black of the first gasoline-powered auto. By 1911 the first car race was held at the Indianapolis Speedway. By 1920 Indianapolis had become an important industrial city, with a population of 300,000. However, the 1920s were marred by the rise to prominence of the Ku Klux Klan in the city’s political and social life, but the Klan’s power had declined by the 1930s. During the Great Depression of the 1930s, the Public Works Administration oversaw the construction of Lockfield Gardens, one of the nation’s first public housing developments. Indianapolis’s central location and extensive transportation network made it a center for troop transport during World War II (1939–45), as well as a hub of wartime manufacturing. In the 1950s and 1960s, however, rail traffic declined and the city stagnated. A major revitalization effort was begun in 1970 with the administrative reorganization that merged some functions of the municipal government with those of the Marion County government to create a unique governmental entity known as UniGov, which has furthered the growth of the city and enhanced its national reputation. Soon afterwards,
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the city adopted a strategy of achieving growth by promoting itself as a center for sporting events, beginning with the construction of the Market Square Arena home of the Indiana Pacers since 1974. The focus on sports continued during the 16-year tenure (1976–82) of Mayor William H. Hudnut, under whose leadership Indianapolis spent more than $126 million on construction athletic facilities, aided by the Lilly Endowment and other private donors. A highlight of this effort was the creation of a new 61,000-seat football stadium. The city’s development efforts, which continued into the 1990s, have also included the ambitious Circle Centre project, a $300 million urban mall with over 100 retail outlets. 7
Government
In 1970 Indianapolis’s city and county governments merged to form a distinctive governmental system known as UniGov. Executive power is wielded by the mayor, who is elected to a four-year term and heads an administration consisting of six departments. He governs in conjunction with a 29member City-County Council also elected to four-year terms, either by district or at large. In 1995, Indianapolis’s government employed 12,000 persons. 8
Public Safety
In 1996, 60,404 crimes were reported to police in the Indianapolis Metropolitan Statistical Area, of which 12 percent were violent crimes. In 1997
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Indianapolis answering a total of 49,212 calls, of which 13,408 were fire calls. The department operated 25 engines and had a budget of $46.7 million. 9
Indianapolis’s economic development is aided by its growing popularity for sporting events, including the Indy 500 motor race. (Sandy Felsenthal; Woodfin Camp)
Indianapolis ranked fortieth nationwide—between Boston, Massachusetts, and Arlington, Texas—in the number of crimes committed per 100,000 population. The Indianapolis Police Department jurisdiction is divided into five districts: north, east, south, west, and downtown. The department employs approximately 1,025 sworn officers and 290 civilian personnel. The average length of service for sworn officers is 14 years. The police department’s general fund for 1999 was $82.7 million. As of November 1998, the activities of Crime Stoppers of Central Indiana had led to the arrest of 1,317 felons. The Indianapolis Fire Department served a population of 350,000 in 1997,
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Economy
Government, industry, and services are all components of the Indianapolis economy. Manufacturing was the dominant sector until the 1980s, when it was surpassed by services and retail trade. Indianapolis’s manufacturing industries include food and food products, paper, chemicals, printing and publishing, petroleum, plastics, bricks, apparel, fabricated metal products, machinery, transportation equipment, medical and optical products, and electronics. At the end of 1996, manufacturing employed 126,100 people in Indianapolis. Top companies with corporate headquarters in the city include Eli Lilly and Company (pharmaceutical manufacturer), Allied Gas and Turbine, Allison Transmissions, and the Associated Group (an insurance firm that has been recommended as one of the top companies nationwide in which to invest). Although Indianapolis is the largest major city in the United States not situated near a navigable body of water, it is still a major transport center because of its geographically central location. Five railroads, four interstate highways, and an international airport provide shipping services, and shipping costs are among the lowest in the nation. The city’s employment picture is bright, with the number of workers
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Indianapolis employed having increased without interruption since the mid-1980s. At the beginning of 1999 its labor force totaled 835,990, and unemployment stood at 2.7 percent. Major employment sectors at the end of 1996 were (in descending order) wholesale and retail trade, services, manufacturing, government, and finance, insurance, and real estate. The top employers (with number of people employed) were local government (62,700), state government (28,800), U.S. government (18,200), Indiana University-Purdue University at Indianapolis (8,250), and Eli Lilly and Company (7,500). The private and public sectors have cooperated to keep the city’s economy strong by fostering new development. The Indianapolis Economic Development Corporation (IEDC) was formed in 1983. Revitalization of the city’s downtown, guided by the Regional Center Plan, has benefited from public and private expenditures of over $4 billion since 1990. One of its major achievements was the construction of the new $319.5 million Circle Centre Mall, which opened in 1995. 10
Environment
Although the site for Indianapolis was chosen deliberately for its proximity to the White River, it turned out that the river was too shallow to support navigation for most of the year. Thus Indianapolis became the world’s largest city not situated on a navigable waterway, and development of the city was forced to focus on its major remaining
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asset—its central location, which prompted the growth of highways and railroads that ultimately made the city “the Crossroads of America.” Today, the White River anchors the 101-hectare (250-acre) White River State Park located near the heart of the city. 11
Shopping
In 1995 the $319.5 million Circle Centre Mall opened in downtown Indianapolis. Skywalks connect it to the city’s major convention center. Other shopping facilities include the Castleton Square Mall, the Glendale Shopping Center, the Indianapolis Downtown Antique Mall, Keystone at the Crossing, Lafayette Square Mall, and Washington Square Mall. There are also stores at Union Station and, reachable on U.S. Highway 31, the Greenwood Park Mall. 12
Education
In the 1995–96 school year, the Indianapolis Public Schools enrolled 44,896 pupils and employed 2,491 teachers, with a pupil/teacher ratio of 18 to one. There were a total of 97 schools in the school system. There are 19 institutions of higher learning in Indianapolis, ranging from two-year colleges and technical schools to private and public four-year universities. The largest is Indiana University-Purdue University at Indianapolis, which offers associate, undergraduate, and graduate degree programs, and enrolled 26,336 students in the fall of 1998. Private four-year institutions (with fall 1998 enrollment figures) include Butler Uni-
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Indianapolis versity (4,126) and the University of Indianapolis (3,414). Other institutions of higher education (with 1998 enrollment figures) include IVY Tech State College (7,116), Marian College (1,229), and Martin University (590). 13
Health Care
Indianapolis is home to the country’s second-largest medical school and its largest school of nursing, as well as one of its most prestigious pediatric hospitals. The affiliated Indiana University Medical Center is the nation’s largest university medical center, comprising three hospitals and some 90 clinics, many offering services based on cutting-edge medical technology. Some of the world’s leading athletes have been treated for orthopedic injuries at Methodist Hospital, the state’s largest medical facility. Among the city’s other hospitals are St. Vincent’s Hospital and Health Care Center, a specialized surgical facility, and the Winona Memorial Hospital, which has a sleep disorders clinic. There are almost 3,000 practicing physicians in the city. The American College of Sports Medicine also has its headquarters in Indianapolis. 14
Media
Indianapolis has two daily newspapers: the Indianapolis Star, a morning paper published seven days a week, and the Indianapolis News, an afternoon daily. The Star has a weekday and Saturday circulation of 230,223 and a Sunday circulation of 391,496. The circulation of the Indianapolis News is
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35,602. The Indianapolis Business Journal, published weekly, is a tabloid-sized business journal with a circulation of about 17,000. Indianapolis Monthly is a popular and respected general-interest magazine that publishes annual “Best and Worst” and restaurant issues. Indianapolis has network-affiliate television network broadcasters for ABC, CBS, NBC, Fox, and PBS. There are a total of 19 radio stations, including both AM and FM stations. 15
Sports
Through promotion efforts and construction of new facilities since the 1980s, Indianapolis has earned a place as a major venue for amateur sports events and sports-related activities. Major league sports teams in Indianapolis include the National Football League’s Indianapolis Colts and the National Basketball Association’s Indiana Pacers. The Colts play at the 60,500-seat RCA Dome (formerly the Hoosier Dome); the Pacers play at the Market Square Arena. In the minor leagues, baseball is represented by the Triple-A Indianapolis Indians, who play at the new Victory Field stadium in White River State Park, which seats 13,500. The Indianapolis Ice play minor-league hockey at Market Square Arena. The best-known sporting event hosted in Indianapolis is the Indianapolis 500-Mile Race (popularly known as the “Indianapolis 500”), which takes place annually on Memorial Day weekend at the Indianapolis Motor Speed-
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Indianapolis
The RCA dome, formerly known as the Hoosier dome, is the home to the National Football League’s Indianapolis Colts. (Sandy Felsenthal; Woodfin Camp)
way, attracting over 350,000 visitors and drawing professional race car drivers from around the world. Indianapolis hosted the Pan American Games in 1987 and the National Collegiate Athletic Association’s Division I Men’s Basketball Championship (the “Final Four”) in 1991, 1997, and 2000. 16
Parks and Recreation
The entrance to the 101-hectare (250-acre) White River State Park lies on West Washington Street, near the heart
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of downtown Indianapolis. It is home to the Indianapolis Zoo, the Eiteljorg Museum of American Indian and Western Art, a new IMAX 3-D theater, and Victory Field baseball park. Indianapolis’ largest park (and one of the largest municipal parks in the country) is Eagle Creek Park, which covers 1,538 hectares (3,800 acres) and boasts a newly renovated nature center, more than 16 kilometers (ten miles) of trails, and a marina that offers sailing, canoeing, kayaking, and other water sports. There is also a one-hectare (three-acre) beach and a half-hectare (one-acre) ecology pond. Garfield Park, established in the
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Indianapolis 1860s, is the city’s oldest park. It houses the Garfield Park Conservatory, which has a wide-ranging collection of rare plants and tropical birds, and also has sunken gardens and an amphitheater. Other city parks include Holliday Park, Ellenberger Park, Broad Ripple Park, Riverside Park, and Marott Park. Altogether, Indianapolis has almost 140 parks. 17
Performing Arts
The Indianapolis Symphony Orchestra, founded in 1930 and currently directed by Raymond Leppard, has been ranked by the New York Times as one of the nation’s ten best orchestras. It performs in the renovated Circle Theatre and at other venues throughout the state. Indianapolis is also home to an opera company, ballet and contemporary dance companies, and the state’s only repertory theater. Artsgarden, a glass-domed performance and exhibition space in the heart of the city was completed in 1995. Connected to the major convention center and the RCA Dome by skywalks, the facilities hosts over 300 events annually. 18
Libraries and Museums
The Indianapolis-Marion County Public Library has its main building downtown and 21 neighborhood branches throughout the city. Founded in 1873, the library has a staff of 460 and an annual circulation of 8.4 million items. Its holdings include 1.7 million
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The Children’s Museum, the largest in the world, has a multitude of interactive exhibits. (Sandy Felsenthal; Woodfin Camp)
book volumes, over 45,000 compact discs, and 100 CD-ROM titles. Among the areas in which it has special collections are early children’s literature, first editions of Indiana authors, and James Whitcomb Riley. Altogether, Indianapolis is home to about 80 public and private libraries, including several university collections, as well as the Indiana State Library. The collection of the Indiana University-Purdue University at Indianapolis Library comprises over 360,000 volumes. There are also
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Indianapolis numerous private and government research institutions throughout the city, including the Hudson Institute, which conducts research on public policy. The Indianapolis Museum of Art is considered one of the outstanding art museums in the Midwest. Situated in a picturesque park that includes a botanical garden, it is noted for its Chinese and Neoimpressionist collections, as well as the country’s most extensive collection of paintings by nineteenthcentury British artist J. M. W. Turner (1775–1851). Other noteworthy museums include the Children’s Museum (the world’s largest children’s museum), which provides a multitude of handson science exhibits; the Eiteljorg Museum of American Indian and Western Art; the Indiana State Museum, which focuses on the history of the state; a sports museum; and the Indianapolis Motor Speedway and Hall of Fame Museum. 19
To u r i s m
Since the 1980s, Indianapolis has actively promoted tourism by marketing itself as a center for amateur sporting events, building new sports facilities, and expanding its hotel facilities. In addition to the time-honored Indianapolis 500, held annually at the Indianapolis Speedway, the city has hosted the Pan American Games (1987) and the NCAA Final Four (1991 and 1997). Downtown Indianapolis has 19 hotels with over 4,000 hotel rooms; the
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greater metropolitan area has 153 hotels with approximately 20,000 rooms. The major convention center is the Indiana Convention Center & RCA Dome. In 1995 Indianapolis attracted over one million convention delegates. 20
Holidays and Festivals
MARCH St. Patrick’s Day Parade
APRIL Hoosier Horse Fair & Expo
MAY Broad Ripple Art Fair Indianapolis 500 auto race and the 500 Festival
JUNE Middle Eastern Festival Indian Market Indy Jazz Fest Italian Festival Midsummer Fest Strawberry Festival Talbott Street Art Fair
JULY Fourth Fest Circlefest Indiana Black Expo
AUGUST Africafest Indiana Avenue Jazz Festival Indiana State Fair Brickyard 400 auto race
SEPTEMBER Greek Festival Heartland Film Festival Massachusetts Avenue Fall Festival Penrod Arts Fair Hoosier Storytelling Festival Oktoberfest
OCTOBER Circle City Classic
NOVEMBER Celebration of Lights
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Indianapolis 21
Famous Citizens
Benjamin Harrison (1833–1901), twenty-third president of the United States. David Letterman (b. 1947), television personality. Eli Lilly (1885–1977), businessman and philanthropist. Steve McQueen (1930–80), actor. Jane Pauley (b. 1950), television news anchor. James Whitcomb Riley (1849–1916), writer known as “the poet of the common people”. Wilma Rudolph (b. 1940), track star. Booth Tarkington (1869–1946), novelist and dramatist. Kurt Vonnegut, Jr. (b. 1922), satirical novelist. 22
For Further Study
Websites Office of the Mayor. [Online] Available http:// www.ci.indianapolis.in.us/mayor. (accessed October 14, 1999). Official Website of the City of Indianapolis and Marion County, Indiana. [Online] Available http://www.ci.indianapolis.in.us. (accessed October 14, 1999).
Government Offices City Hall 200 E. Washington St. Indianapolis, IN 46204 (317) 327-4348 Indianapolis Planning Division 200 E. Washington St. Indianapolis, IN 46204 (317) 327-5151
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Mayor’s Office 200 E. Washington St. Indianapolis, IN 46204 (317) 327-3601
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Indiana Convention Center & RCA Dome 100 S. Capitol Ave. Indianapolis, IN 46225 (317) 262-3410 Indianapolis Chamber of Commerce 320 N Meridian St. Suite 200 Indianapolis, IN 46204 (317) 464-2200 Indianapolis Convention and Visitors Association 200 S. Capitol Ave. 1 RCA Dome Indianapolis, IN 46225 (317) 639-4282
Publications Indianapolis Business Journal 41 E. Washington St., Suite 200 Indianapolis, IN 46204 Indianapolis Monthly 950 N. Meridian St. Suite 1200 Indianapolis, IN 46204 Indianapolis News 307 N. Pennsylvania St. Indianapolis, IN 46204 (317) 633-1038 Indianapolis Star 307 N. Pennsylvania St. Indianapolis, IN 46204 (317) 633-1240
Books Berry, S. L., and Jolene Phelps Ketzenberger. The Insiders’ Guide to Greater Indianapolis. Indianapolis: Insiders’ Publishing, 1997. Bodenhamer, David J., and Robert G. Barrows, ed. The Encyclopedia of Indianapolis. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1994. Bowers, Claude Gernade. Ed. Holman Hamilton and Gayle Thornbrough. Indianapolis in the "Gay Nineties": High School Diaries of Claude G. Bowers. Indianapolis: Indiana Historical Society, 1964. Cameron, Layne Scott. Kidding Around Indianapolis: What to Do, Where to Go, and How to Have
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Indianapolis Fun in Indianapolis. Santa Fe, NM: John Muir Publications, 1997. Cathcart, Charlotte. Indianapolis from Our Old Corner. Indianapolis: Indiana Historical Society, 1965. City-smart Guidebook. Indianapolis. Santa Fe, NM: John Muir Publications, 1997. Goldsmith, Stephen. The Twenty-first Century City: Resurrecting Urban America. Washing-
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ton, D.C.: Regnery Pub.,1997. Jones, Darryl. Indianapolis. [photographs]. Text by Howard Caldwell. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1990. Kriplen, Nancy, and Margaret Winter. Exploring Indianapolis. 3rd. ed. Indianapolis: Lexicon, 1982. Leary, Ed. Indianapolis: The Story of a City. Indianapolis: Bobbs-Merrill, 1971.
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Istanbul Istanbul, Turkey, Europe and Asia Founded: Ottoman Turks captured present-day Istanbul (formerly known as Constantinople and before that as Byzantium) in 1453. Location: Istanbul, Turkey, is the only city in the world that sits on two continents: Europe and Asia. The city lies on both sides of the Bosporus channel and the Sea of Marmara, which connect the Black Sea to the Mediterranean. On the European side of the Bosporus, old Istanbul developed on the western side of the narrow Golden Horn, a canal about 4 miles in length that empties into the Bosporus. Flag: White emblem on a red field. Time Zone: 3 PM = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: About 99% of Istanbul residents are Muslim Turks, two-thirds of them Sunni. The rest are Alevi, a sect similar to Shiism. Christian and Jewish minorities continue to shrink in numbers. Elevation: Approximately 600m (2,000 ft) above sea level Climate: Istanbul has a Mediterranean climate with cool, wet winters and dry, hot summers. The prevailing northeast winds, or poyraz, come from the Black Sea, sometimes bringing extreme cold to the city. At times, the cold winds have frozen the Golden Horn and the Bosporus. Temperature: Temperatures average about 40.5° F (4.7°C) in January and about 73°F (22.8°C) in July. Average Annual Precipitation: About 31.5 inches, with most falling in the winter Government: A mayor appointed by the President of the Republic Weights and Measures: Standard metric Monetary Units: The Turkish lira. It comes in notes of 50,000; 100,000; 500,000; 1,000,000 and 5,000,000. Coins come in denominations of 5,000; 10,000; 25,000 and 50,000. Telephone Area Codes: 90 (Turkey country code); 212, 216 (Istanbul city codes)
1
Introduction
Inhabited for more than 2,500 years, the old walled city of Istanbul was one of the most coveted places in the world. To resist invaders, its inhabitants built massive walls, 5 meters (16 feet) deep and 9 meters (30 feet) in height. Yet, the walls were more like an invitation, a signal that something worth taking hid within its walls.
Formerly known as Constantinople, and before that as Byzantium, Istanbul was founded at a crossroad between Europe and Asia, Christianity and Islam. It was the capital city of the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman Empires and briefly the capital city of the Turkish Republic, each opening the city's doors to friends and firmly shutting them to enemies. The city was
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Istanbul
Istanbul Population Profile City Proper Population: 5,000,000 Area: 1,991 sq km (769 sq mi ) Ethnic composition: About 99% of Istanbul residents are Muslim Turks, two-thirds of them Sunni. The rest are Alevi, a sect similar to Shiism. Christian and Jewish minorities continue to shrink in numbers. Nicknames: The ancient name of Byzantium is believed to come from its founder, Byzas. Constantine I named it New Rome before naming it after himself: Constantinople. The name Istanbul is derived from the Greek term stin poli, meaning "to the city" or "in the city.'' Used for many centuries, it did not officially become the name of the city until 1930.
Metropolitan Area Population: 9,413,000 Area: 2,204 sq mi (5,712 sq km) World population rank1: 23 Percentage of national population2: 14.3% Average yearly growth rate: 3.5% ——— 1. The Istanbul metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of Turkey’s total population living in the Istanbul metropolitan area.
and other buildings. So did the Ottoman Empire, which captured the city in 1453 and proceeded to cover the city with palaces, mosques, and water fountains. Their efforts stood in stark contrast with those who were left outside the walls. Those who penetrated its walls by force took great pleasure in tearing the city down, stealing its treasures and hauling anything that could be carried back home across long distances. What man could not destroy, nature took away. Dozens of earthquakes have shaken the city throughout its history, turning buildings to dust. Like many cities in the world, Istanbul long ago lived its golden era. Today, it is poverty, pollution, and social problems that besiege the city. Yet, Istanbul retains its exuberance, its charm, and its place in history. 2
Getting There
Because of its location, Istanbul functions as the crossroads between Europe and Asia. Highways
attacked more than 60 times. In ancient times, the Greeks, Athenians, Persians, and Spartans fought to capture it; so did the Gauls and the Macedonians. The Romans finally took it and renamed it after Constantine the Great, who declared it the new capital of a united Roman Empire. Something about this city by the water compelled its leaders to spare no efforts in aggrandizing it. The Byzantine Empire spent countless fortunes building palaces, churches,
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A major highway connects Bulgaria to Turkey. Bus and Railroad Service One of the best means of travel is by inter-city bus. Esenler and Harem are the two main bus stations. The best of the companies offer comfortable, quality transportation, an excellent and cheap alternative to flying. Many buses are double deckered, and all are non-
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Istanbul
smoking and offer tea and snack service. The railroad is slower but can be fun, especially in a first class compartment. The Sirkeci train station serves Europe while Haydarpasa Station serves parts of Asia and the Middle East. Trains
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run between Ankara and Istanbul, Istanbul and Izmir, and reservations are required. Airports Ataturk International Airport has daily service to just about every part of
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Istanbul
City Fact Comparison Istanbul (Turkey)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
9,413,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1453
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$159
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$78
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$19
$14
$15
$16
$256
$173
$246
$207
22
13
20
11
Sabah
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
722,950
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1985
1944
1976
1948
Total daily costs Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established 1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
the world. The Havas bus service has frequently scheduled trips between the airport and the city. The service between terminals is free. Metered taxis are also available to get to the city. Shipping As Byzantium, present-day Istanbul was built along the Golden Horn, which provided the best natural harbor in the region. The Golden Horn inlet provides a safe harbor next to the city, not far from the Bosporus, a major maritime route connecting the Black Sea to the Mediterranean Sea.
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3
Getting Around
Bus and Commuter Rail Service Public buses are the main mode of transportation in Istanbul, carrying about 1.5 million passengers per day. The city’s dolmus (public shared taxis) carry thousands of passengers each day. There are many taxis and thousands of private automobiles. There is also sea bus service between the Asian and European sides, as well as regional train service. The city is in the midst of expanding a limited underground metro service.
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Istanbul Sightseeing Istanbul is a city with great architectural heritage. Visitors travel from around the world to see Turkish palaces, mosques, museums, monuments, and water fountains. Some of the most popular ones include the Ayasofya Museum, the Kariye Museum, the Cinili Kosk, the Ibrahim Palace Museum, the Museum of Turkish Carpets, and the Mosaic Museum. Many of the mosques and other historic landmarks were even added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1985. Many people also come to Istanbul to purchase the country's famous carpets, tiles, and ceramics. 4
People
During the 1990s, Istanbul grew at a rate of about 3.8 percent annually. Most of the migrants came from the countryside, moving into shantytowns known as gecekondus (literally “set down by night”). About 99 percent of Istanbul residents are Muslim Turks, two-thirds of them Sunni. The rest are Alevi, a sect similar to Shiism. Christian and Jewish minorities continue to shrink in numbers. The dominant language is Turkish although some minorities do speak other languages. 5
Neighborhoods
In a traditional sense, Istanbul is not a city of neighborhoods. With nearly 3,000 years of continuous habitation, the only constant has been people's desire to live there. Wars, invasions, occupations, and the systematic destruction of the city, as well as
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plagues, devastating earthquakes, and fires, have forced residents to rebuild Istanbul many times over. Somehow, through all the remarkable changes, the remains of ancient buildings and monuments still stand today. Old Istanbul remains a walled city. A close inspection of the walls explains how the city remained invulnerable to so many attacks. In some places, the walls are 9 meters (30 feet) high and 5 meters (16 feet) thick, with 18-meter (60-foot) towers every 55 meters (180 feet). Two bridges cross over the Golden Horn and connect old Istanbul with Beyoglu, which is characterized as “modern Istanbul.” Since the eleventh century, Beyoglu has been considered the foreign quarter. This area is made up mostly of post-nineteenth-century buildings. Earthquakes, fires, and warfare just about destroyed everything before that date. Beyoglu is divided into two sections: the lower Galata waterfront and the Pera Plateau, home to consulates and Turkish government offices, as well as many of the city’s largest hotels and best restaurants. The city reaches across the Bosporus to its Asian side with two bridges, one completed in 1973 and the other in 1988. Housing is a problem in Istanbul; occupancy rates hover at about 13 persons per unit. As migrants, especially from the Asian side of Istanbul, have moved into the city, large shantytowns have appeared throughout the metropolitan area.
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Istanbul 6
History
Archaeological remains show that people have inhabited the immediate area of present-day Istanbul for tens of thousands of years. A large population lived in the area around 5,000 B.C. Greeks from Miletus and Megara began to settle along the coasts of Bosporus and the Black Sea during the latter part of the eighth century B.C. According to legend, the colony of Byzantium was founded in 660 B.C. by a Megarian named Byzas. The colony was named after him. Because of its strategic position, Byzantium didn't take long to establish its economic dominance over the region, inviting unwanted attention. Byzantium was built along the Golden Horn, which provided the best natural harbor in the region. Fish were abundant, and the fertile surrounding countryside was suitable for agriculture. The Golden Horn inlet provided a safe harbor next to the city, not far from the Bosporus, a major maritime route connecting the Black Sea to the Mediterranean Sea. Greeks, Athenians, Persians, and Spartans fought over the city early on. Even the Gauls attacked Byzantium in the third century B.C. In 202 B.C. Byzantium, besieged by Macedonians, asked Rome for protection. By 73 B.C. the city had become part of a Roman province. In A.D. 196, Byzantium found itself on the wrong side of an internal Roman power struggle and paid dearly. Roman emperor Septimus Severus (146–211; r.
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193–211) massacred its residents and destroyed most of the city. He rebuilt Byzantium, which continued to prosper despite serious attacks, civil wars, and rebellions that broke out in the Roman Empire over many decades. On September 18, 324, Constantine I (c. 274–337; r. 306–337) defeated rival emperor Licinius and united the vast Roman Empire under his leadership. On May 11, 330, Byzantium officially became the capital of the empire, which stretched over three continents. Briefly known as New Rome, the city was renamed Constantinople in honor of Constantine, the first Roman ruler to adopt Christianity. Constantinople became one of the world’s wealthiest and most powerful cities of its time. Until the eleventh century, it was virtually untouchable, dictating Christian religious doctrine and controlling vast amounts of wealth. No longer did all roads lead to Rome. They led to Constantinople, the meeting point between East and West. With the death of Theodosius in 395, the Roman Empire was split into East and West. Constantinople became the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire, which came to be known as the Byzantine Empire. The city developed into the center of the Greek Orthodox Christian world. With vast amounts of wealth at its disposal, the Byzantine Empire transformed Constantinople into a beautiful city. Some of the best architects of the time designed its churches and palaces. Artists and sculptors left their mark
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Istanbul
Istanbul rests on two continents, Asia and Europe, and is divided by the Bosporus Channel. Pictured is a view of the Golden Horn and the Bosporus towards Galata and Beyoglu areas, with the Yeni Mosque in the foreground. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
throughout the city. The hippodrome could sit more than 100,000 people. The Haghia Sophia, today a museum, was one of the largest churches of its time. As the city grew, its nearly impenetrable protective walls were built further out. During the reign of Byzantine emperor Justinian (527–565), more than 500,000 people lived in Constantinople. Justinian oversaw the construction of some of the city’s most spectacular buildings, including the Haghia Sophia. Under his rule, the city reached its zenith.
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The accumulation of wealth continued to attract enemies. In 542, a plague devastated the population, killing three out of five inhabitants, and marked the beginning of the city's decline. Its enemies besieged the weakened city but could not penetrate its walls. Between the seventh and eleventh centuries, Russians, Persian Sassanids, Avars, Muslim Arabs, and Bulgars attacked the city. During the Fourth Crusade (a series of religious wars between Western European Christians and Muslims for control of the Holy Land), the Latins
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Istanbul ulation shrank to 50,000, and its people were constantly on the brink of famine. In the distance, the advancing troops of the Ottoman Empire moved closer and closer. The Ottoman Turks attacked Constantinople for the first time in 1396. Ottoman is the Western derivative for the followers of Osman (1259–1326), a Sunni Muslim warrior who led raids on Christian Byzantine enclaves in western Anatolia (the Asian side of present-day Turkey).
Eating rooms were decorated with ornate tiles to entice the Sultan to eat. This is the fruit room from the Topkapi Palace. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
(Roman Catholics) broke through the walls and seized the city in 1204. They held it until 1261, when Byzantine troops recaptured the city. Under Latin rule, the city was plundered and ruined. The invaders stole most of the city's precious religious and civic symbols, melted its bronze statues for coin, and took just about anything of value that could be carried away. Constantinople would never recover from the destruction, even after the much smaller and weakened Byzantine Empire regained control. The city’s pop-
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The Ottomans built a fort on the Asian side of the Bosporus to prevent aid from reaching Constantinople. Yet the city would not fall for several decades. By 1452, under leader Mehmed II (r. 1451–1481), the Ottomans tightened the noose, building a second fortress on the European side of the Bosporus. Mehmed commissioned the manufacture of large cannons to bombard the city’s powerful walls. In March of 1453, Ottoman troops attacked the city by land and water. A massive chain prevented enemy ships from entering the Golden Horn. But Mehmed rolled his fleet by land on top of logs from the Bosporus into the Golden Horn. On May 29, Mehmed entered the city and prayed in the church of Haghia Sophia. It was a symbolic gesture that signaled the end of Constantinople’s Christian era and the beginning of Muslim rule. The Haghia Sophia was immediately turned into a Muslim temple. The city had been nearly abandoned during Mehmed’s siege. He
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Istanbul began to repopulate it by moving people into the city from other communities. In 1457, Constantinople, known by now as Istanbul, became the capital of the Ottoman Empire. Within a few years, the city was repopulated by more than 50,000 people.
approval of the ruling class. Sultans and government officials adopted the dress of Western diplomats, replacing their traditional clothes with Western pants and jackets. The fez replaced the turban. With European investment, Istanbul continued to modernize.
During the rule of Suleyman the Magnificent (r. 1520–66), Ottoman Istanbul reached its zenith. The magnificent buildings of architect Mimar Sinan (c. 1489–1587) defined this period. As chief architect of the Ottoman Empire, Sinan is credited with more than 300 buildings. He designed palaces, mosques, tombs, and government buildings. With his buildings and the contributions of others, the city embraced a distinct Ottoman identity. For a while, it was the center of Islam.
By the 1870s, Europeans were building a railroad to connect the continent with Istanbul. Modernization had come at a high price, and the empire was heavily indebted to European powers. In the meantime, many young Ottomans sought to limit the powers of the sultan and his western-style administration. The power struggles of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries would mark the end of the Ottoman Empire and the beginning of the Turkish Republic.
By the nineteenth century, moderate sultans opened the doors to the West and sought better relations. Muslim Turks, Orthodox Greeks, Christians, Armenians, Jews, and many Europeans populated Istanbul. Yet, not all was well within the Ottoman Empire. Many non-Turkish people were in open revolt. The Greeks declared their independence in 1829, and soon others followed. The Europeans invested heavily in the Ottoman Empire. They openly sought to exert influence while secretly desiring the empire's territories and its wealth. British, French, and Germans were involved in just about every aspect of Ottoman society. Foreign experts were reshaping the Ottoman Army and government administration with the
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In 1908, a group known as the Young Turks forced Sultan Abd alHamid to restore the constitution and parliament. Al-Hamid attempted a counterrevolution in 1909, dissolving Congress and arresting many Young Turks. But allies of the young revolutionaries marched from Macedonia into Istanbul and dethroned the sultan. The Young Turks, who ruled until 1918, introduced many social changes, including Western-style elections and broader women’s rights. During World War I (1914–18), the Ottomans aligned themselves with the Central Powers (the German and Austro-Hungarian empires). Istanbul was blockaded. At the end of the war, British, French, and Italian soldiers occupied Istanbul until 1923.
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Istanbul The nationalist Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881–1938) and his Turkish troops fought European intervention from 1918 until 1923 when hostilities ended with the Treaty of Lausanne. Atatürk abolished the sultanate and moved the capital city to Ankara. Turkey remained neutral during World War II (1939–45) and later became an ally of Western nations and member of the North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO). During the twentieth century, Istanbul lost more than just its status as capital of empires. As it grew, large historic parts of the city were demolished to make space for highways and new buildings. Today, Istanbul struggles to retain its heritage as the portal between two worlds. Many of its buildings have been declared world heritage treasures by United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). 7
Government
The mayor governs the city and the province of Istanbul. The president of the republic appoints the mayor. The municipality of Istanbul, which was organized by Constantine I into 14 districts in imitation of Rome, is currently divided into 12 districts (kazas). The Turkish Minister of the Interior appoints the heads of the kazas. The municipal government distributes funds to each of the districts for transportation, water, roads, and other services. A metropolitan municipality handles planning for the region.
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The Spice Bazaar is one way to appreciate the best spices from Europe and Asia. (Adam Woolfitt; Woodfin Camp)
8
Public Safety
The city has the typical problems of a large metropolis, but it is generally considered safe. Tourists are most likely to be affected only by petty crime. 9
Economy
Istanbul remains one of the most important commercial centers in the country. About 36 percent of exports and 40 percent of imports pass through Istanbul. It is an industrial city, accounting for 45 percent of national production and about the same percentage of jobs. Its factories produce textiles, oil products, rubber, metals, leather, chemicals, glass, electronics, and automobiles. The city is a banking and insurance center.
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Istanbul 10
Environment
Air and water pollution are serious problems in Istanbul. Many beach resorts do not allow swimming because of pollution. Many of the shantytowns lack adequate sanitation facilities and clean water. Water and sewage treatment facilities have not kept up pace with the growing population. During the summer, Istanbul has experienced severe water shortages. 11
Shopping
Istanbul, at the crossroads of two continents, seems like it was made for shopping. The city has many colorful bazaars, including the historic "Kapali Carsi," or covered Bazaar, in the old city. It has more than 4,000 shops, and each trade has its own section. Turkish arts and crafts, carpets, and jewelry are found there, among thousands of other items. The Spice Bazaar is filled with the smells of cinnamon, mint, thyme, and hundreds of other spices and herbs. Istanbul also has many modern shops and malls. 12
Education
The city has 3,500 primary and secondary schools. The national literacy rate is about 70 percent, with a much higher percentage in the city. Theodosius II (401–450) founded the first University of Istanbul in A.D. 425. It was succeeded by Istanbul University in 1453. There are two other major universities in the city. Among foreign institutions are The American Robert College
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for boys (1863) and the American College for girls (1871). 13
Health Care
The city has 90 public and private hospitals serving the Istanbul metropolitan area. The government subsidizes health care. The are only two doctors per 1,000 persons, and many hospitals and clinics lack adequate personnel and equipment. Istanbul is home to the country's two medical schools. 14
Media
Istanbul has 17 daily and 13 weekly newspapers, as well as dozens of periodicals. The city is also served by television and radio. It is home of Turkish cinema and a major book publishing center. The press has been largely uncensored. 15
Sports
Sports are important in Istanbul, and soccer is the most important of all. The city has three major soccer stadiums and several professional teams in the area. Wrestling and sailing are also popular. The city has golf, tennis, and many other sports facilities. 16
Parks and Recreation
The city has many public parks, including Yildiz Park and the Gulhane Park at Topkapi, home of the Istanbul Zoo. A park was developed on the site of the Byzantine Hippodrome. It displays the remains of the ancient
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Istanbul
A lute player in traditional costume. (R & S Michaud)
horseracing venue. Turkish men are known for spending their leisure time at coffeehouses (kiraathane), where many customers still smoke water pipes (hookahs). Both men and women enjoy the public steam baths (haman), but there are separate facilities for each gender. 17
Performing Arts
Ballet, opera, and theater presentations are held at the 1,300-seat AKM Grand Hall. The Istanbul State Symphony Orchestra, Istanbul Modern Folk Music Ensemble, Istanbul State Classi-
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cal Turkish Music Choir, and the Istanbul Historical Turkish Music Ensemble perform in the city. The International Arts and Cultural Festival is held each year in June and July. 18
Libraries and Museums
The city has exceptional museums. Among them is the Ayasofya (Saint Sophia) Museum. The ancient basilica was built by Constantine the Great (c. 274–337) and reconstructed by Justinian (c. 482–527) in the sixth century. Architecturally, it is considered one of
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Istanbul the most important buildings in the world. Its decorations include fine Byzantine mosaics. The Kariye Museum, built as a church in the eleventh century, is decorated with fourteenth-century frescoes and mosaics on a gold background. The Archaeological Museum has a rich collection of antiquities, including the Alexander Sarcophagus. It has displays on the Sumerians, Babylonians, Assyrians, Hatti, and Hittite civilizations. The Cinili Kosk (The Museum of Turkish Ceramics) was built in the fifteenth century and contains Iznik tiles from the sixteenth century, as well as examples of Seljuk and Ottoman tiles and ceramics. The Ibrahim Palace Museum (The Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art) was built as a private residence in 1524. The museum has many Turkish and Persian miniatures, Seljuk tiles, and antique carpets. The Museum of Fine Arts has paintings and sculptures from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Among others are the Museum of Turkish Carpets, the Mosaic Museum, and the City Museum, which covers the Ottoman period to the present. The city has many public and private libraries, including the Köprülü Library (1677), which has books more than 1,000 years old. 19
To u r i s m
Istanbul is one of the great architectural and cultural cities of the world. Turkish palaces, mosques, museums, monuments, and hundreds of water fountains help tell the story of this old city. Many of the mosques and other
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historic landmarks were added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1985. Many people come to Istanbul to purchase the country’s famous carpets, tiles, and ceramics. 20
Holidays and Festivals
The Turkish people observe many religious festivals, including the end of Ramazan (called Ramadan in Arab countries). Muslim religious holidays are based on the lunar calendar and shift about ten days backward each year. JANUARY New Year’s Day
APRIL National Independence and Children’s Day
MAY Ataturk’s Commemoration Day
AUGUST Zafer Bayram, or Victory Day
OCTOBER Cumhuriyet Bayram, or Republic Day
NOVEMBER Anniversary of Atatürk's death
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Famous Citizens
Anna Comnena (1083–c. 1148), Byzantine princess, daughter of Emperor Alexius I Comnenus, and historian, whose Alexiad is considered an important historical document. Constantine the Great (c. 274–337), founder of Constantinople and first Roman ruler to convert to Christianity.
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Istanbul Bulent Ecevit (b. 1925) poet, political leader, and national hero, Turkish Prime Minister (1974 and 1978– 79). Pasha Enver (1881–1922), one of the main leaders of the Young Turks Revolution of 1908 and nationalist leader who directed Turkish war efforts during World War I. Mimar Sinan (c. 1489–1588), great architect of the early Ottoman Empire, credited with more than 300 buildings in Istanbul. 22
For Further Study
Websites Istanbul City Guide. [Online] Available http:// www.istanbulcityguide.com (accessed February 7, 2000). Ministry of Culture. [Online] Available http:// www.kultur.gov.tr/english/main-e.html (accessed February 7, 2000). Structural analysis of the Hagia Sophia Museum [Online] Available http://www.princeton.edu/ ~asce/const_95/const.html (accessed February 7, 2000).
Government Offices Embassy of Turkey 1714 Massachusetts Washington D.C. 20036 Government of Turkey [Online] Available http:// www.turkey-web.com/government (accessed February 7, 2000).
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Tourist and Convention Bureaus Ismet Inonu Bul 5 Bah Celievler Ankara, Turkey
Publications Aksam Gazetesi newspaper [Online] Available http://www.aksam.com.tr (accessed February 7, 2000). Fanatik (sports Internet site from Istanbul). [Online] Available http://www.fanatik.com.tr (accessed February 7, 2000). Milliyet Gazetesi newspaper [Online] Available http://www.milliyet.com.tr/englishindex.html (accessed February 7, 2000). Turkish Daily News. [Online] Available http:// www.turkishdailynews.com (accessed February 7, 2000).
Books Clari, Robert de. The Conquest of Constantinople. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 1997. Kagitcibasi, Cigdem, ed. Sex Roles, Family, and Community in Turkey. Bloomington: Indiana University Press Turkish Studies, 1982. Lewis, Bernard. Istanbul: And the Civilization of the Ottoman Empire. Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 1994. Mansel, Philip. Constantinople: City of the World's Desire: 1453–1924. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1998. Queller, Donald E. with Thomas F. Madden. The Fourth Crusade: The Conquest of Constantinople. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 1997. Tapper, Richard, ed. Islam in Modern Turkey: Religion, Politics, and Literature in a Secular State. London: Tauris, 1991. Treadgold, Warren. Byzantium and its Army: 284– 1081. Palo Alto: Stanford University Press, 1997. Whittow, Mark. The Making of Byzantium: 600– 1025. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1997.
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Jerusalem Jerusalem, Israel, Middle East Founded: c. 4000 bc Location: The Judaean hills, about 30 km (20 mi) from the Jordan River Flag: Blue horizontal stripes on a white field, with a blue and yellow emblem in the center. Time Zone: 2 PM = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: 70% Jewish; 30% Arab Elevation: 757 meters (2,484 feet) above sea level Latitude and Longitude: 31º47’N, 35º15’E Climate: Subtropical, semiarid; warm, dry summers; cool, rainy winters Annual Mean Temperature: January 9ºC (48ºF); July 23ºC (73ºF) Average Annual Precipitation: 500 mm (20 in) Government: Mayor-council Weights and Measures: Metric system Monetary Units: New Israeli Shekel (NIS) Telephone Area Codes: 02 (Jerusalem area code); 972 (country code for Israel) Postal Codes: 9000 and up
1
Introduction
Located east of the Jordan River in the Judaean Hills, Jerusalem is the capital of Israel and its largest city in terms of both geographical area and population size. A holy city for three of the world’s major religions—Judaism, Christianity, and Islam—Jerusalem has a long and tumultuous history, during which it has been home to people of many nationalities and faiths. Reunified since 1967, Jerusalem is really three cities in one: the historic walled Old City that is home to its holy places, the modern urban center to the west, and the Arab district to the east. In addition to being Israel’s spiritual, political, and administrative capital, Jerusalem is also
a leader in education and health care, and its religious, historical, and cultural attractions make it the country’s premier tourist destination. 2
Getting There
Jerusalem lies 48 kilometers (30 miles) east of the Mediterranean Sea. It is bordered on the north, south, and east by the West Bank of the Jordan River, occupied by Israel since the Six Day War in 1967. Israel’s border with Jordan is 40 kilometers (25 miles) east of the city. Highways Route 60, the main north-south highway, cuts through the middle of
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Jerusalem Airports
Jerusalem Population Profile Population: 3,738,500 Area: 109 sq km (42 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 70% Jewish; 30% Arab World population rank1: approx. 68 Percentage of national population2: n.a. Average yearly growth rate: n.a (Tel Aviv 1.98%) Nicknames: The Holy City ——— 1. The Jerusalem metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas.
Ben Gurion International Airport is located 50 km (12 mi) west of Jerusalem along Route 1 leading to Tel Aviv. Of the approximately 5 million passengers who use the airport every year, more than 40 percent travel on flights operated by El Al, Israel’s national airline. Shipping Jerusalem is not a port city.
2. The percent of Israel’s total population living in the Jerusalem metropolitan area.
3
Jerusalem, leading to Nablus to the north and Hebron and Beersheba to the south. The major east-west highway, Route 1, leads northwest to Tel Aviv and eastward to Jordan, first intersecting with Route 90, which in turn leads north to Jericho and beyond to Tiberias and the Sea of Galilee. The Allon Road traverses the Judaean Desert, leading to Israeli settlements on the West Bank. Bus and Railroad Service Intercity buses from points throughout Israel, including Ben Gurion International Airport, arrive and depart from the Egged Central Bus Station on Jaffa Road. There is also bus service to Cairo, Egypt, and Amman, Jordan. There are separate bus stations for destinations within jurisdiction of the Palestinian Authority. There is train service to Tel Aviv, continuing to Haifa, leaving from the train station in Remez Square.
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Getting Around
The modern municipality of Jerusalem, as defined by its post-1967 borders, lies between Mount Scopus and the Mount of Olives to the east, Hadassah Medical Center to the west, and past Jerusalem’s municipal airport to the north. Within these boundaries is the historic, walled Old City, which forms a rough quadrilateral measuring about 900 meters (3,000 feet) on each side. Seven gates lead to the twisting, narrow streets of the Old City, which is divided into Christian, Jewish, Muslim, and Armenian quarters. To the west, the Jaffa Gate provides the main access to the modern Jerusalem, while the Damascus Gate is the main entryway to the Arab enclave of East Jerusalem. Bus and Commuter Rail Service The Egged Bus Cooperative, which offers inter-city bus transportation, also provides transportation within Jerusalem itself. Bus service is frequent, punctual, and reasonably priced, with a flat fare for all local bus rides, no matter
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Jerusalem
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Jerusalem how short or long. Private Arab companies provide service to the West Bank. There is no real commuter rail service, but shared taxis called sheruts, which seat up to seven passengers, are a popular mode of transport in the city. Sightseeing Egged, which provides most of the city’s public transportation, offers an introductory tour of Jerusalem that takes in 36 major tourist sites and allows visitors to embark at any of them and board another bus later at no extra charge. Egged also offers half-day bus tours of the Old City and of the Yad Vashem Holocaust memorial. Walking tours are a popular way to see many of Jerusalem’s historic sites. Tours of both the Old City and the newer part of Jerusalem are offered by Zion Walking Tours. Archaeological Seminars walking tours focus on the historical periods of the first and second temples, and the Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel (SPNI) offers tours of the Old City as well as nature hikes in the nearby countryside. 4
People
Jerusalem is one of Israel’s most populous city, and its population continues to grow rapidly thanks to a high birth rate and the arrival of new immigrants, many of them from the former Soviet republics. Since 1986, the city’s population has grown by 28 percent, with peripheral neighborhoods, such as Manchat and Pisgat Ze’ev, recording the greatest increases. At the end of 1996,
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Jerusalem’s population was 602,100, and it is expected to reach 650,000 by 2000. As of 1996, Jews accounted for 70 percent of the city’s inhabitants, with Arabs making up the rest. Of the city’s Arabs, 92 percent were Muslim and eight percent Christian. Because of Jerusalem’s large non-Jewish and Orthodox Jewish populations—both of which tend to have large families— young people account for an unusually large percentage of the city’s population: in 1996, 44 percent of the population was aged zero to 19 (including 13 percent aged zero to four) while only eight percent were senior citizens. 5
Neighborhoods
Jerusalem consists of three main areas. The city’s great holy and historic sites are found in the walled Old City, home to the Muslim Dome of the Rock, the Christian Church of the Sepulchre, and the Western Wall of the Jewish Temple. To the west lies the modern, predominantly Jewish city of Jerusalem, also called the New City, the political and administrative capital of Israel. To the east of the Old City lies East Jerusalem, the Palestinian part of the city, which was cut off from the rest of Jerusalem between Israeli independence in 1948 and the Six Day War in 1967. The former dividing line, known as the Green Line, is now called HaShalom Road. Besides hotels and restaurants, East Jerusalem, whose main streets are Nablus Road and Salah ad-Din Street, is home to many retailers and other small
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Jerusalem
City Fact Comparison Jerusalem (Israel)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
3,738,500
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
c. 4000 BC
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$184
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$76
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$19
$14
$15
$16
$279
$173
$246
$207
14
13
20
11
Largest newspaper
Al-Quds
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
Circulation of largest newspaper
40,000
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1932
1944
1976
1948
Total daily costs Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city
Date largest newspaper was established 1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
businesses. Further east is the Mount of Olives. To the north lie Mount Scopus, the main campus of Hebrew University, and Hadassah Hospital. The heart of the New City is the triangle formed by King George V Street, Jaffa Road, and Ben Yehuda Street, the site of numerous hotels, restaurants, and cafes, and the popular gathering place Zion Square. Just to the north lies Mea She’arim (“One Hundred Gates”), home to Jerusalem’s ultra-orthodox community (or, as they are known in Israel, “Haredim”), whose distinctive appearance and way of life evokes the vanished world of their Eastern Euro-
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pean forebears in the days before World War II (1939–45). The district of Giv’at Ram to the west is home to several notable landmarks, including the Israel Museum, the Knesset (parliament building), and the Supreme Court. In an area further to the west are Yad Vashem, Israel’s Holocaust memorial and museum; the tomb of Israel’s founding father Theodore Herzl (1860–1904); the famous Chagall stained-glass windows of the Hadassah Medical Center; and Ein Kerem, a former Arab village that was the birthplace of John the Baptist (fl. c. 27).
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Jerusalem
A view of Jerusalem’s Old City Walls from Mount Olive. (A. Ramey; Woodfin Camp)
Among the city’s residential districts outside the downtown area are Yemin Moshe (the first settlement developed outside the city walls in the nineteenth century), Talbiye, Rehavia, Bet ha-Kerem, and the “German Colony,” built by the German Templars in the nineteenth century. Arab neighborhoods outside the Old City include ashShaykh Jarrah, Wadi al-Joz, Bayt Hanina, Bayt Safafa, and the American Colony. 6
History
With a history extending over some 4,000 years, Jerusalem has been
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inhabited longer than almost any other city in the world and has had a long succession of rulers. Its first recorded connection with the Biblical kingdom of Israel occurs in the middle of the second millennium B.C. Around 1000 B.C., King David (c. 1013–c. 973 B.C.) made it the capital of a united Israel. It also became the spiritual center of the Jewish nation when David’s successor, King Solomon, built the First Temple 50 years later. Within the next thousand years, the city was conquered and destroyed by the Babylonians (586 B.C.) and the Romans (A.D. 70), who rebuilt it yet once more under the name of Aelia Capitolina in A.D. 130.
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Jerusalem After a period of Byzantine rule, Jerusalem was conquered by Muslims in the seventh century and remained part of the Islamic world for more than 1,000 years, with an interruption of about a century after it was captured by Crusaders in 1099. Four hundred years of rule by the Ottoman Empire began in 1517 and included the reign of Suleiman the Magnificent (1538–1566), who oversaw major rebuilding of the city. After his reign, however, the condition of Jerusalem declined, and it gradually fell into a state of neglect. A revival of European interest in the Middle East in the late eighteenth century led to the building of consulates and other public buildings. The Crimean War (1853–56) in the mid-nineteenth century also led to some new interest in the region and more development. This period also saw the beginning of new settlement by European Jews, beginning with the purchase of land outside the city walls in 1855 by Sir Moses Montefiore. By 1900 there were 60 Jewish settlements surrounding the old city. With the collapse of the Ottoman Empire in World War I (1914–18), Jerusalem was captured by British forces under the command of Gen. Edmund Allenby (1861–1936) and, together with the rest of Palestine, placed under British mandate by the League of Nations. During this period, Jewish immigration to the city increased, resulting in escalating tensions with Palestine’s Arab neighbors. In its 1947 partition plan for Palestine, the United Nations proposed turning
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Tower of David. (Chuck Fisherman; Woodfin Camp)
Jerusalem into an internationally administered city, but Arab forces rejected the plan and laid siege to the city. The British left Palestine on May 14, 1948, and the state of Israel was proclaimed. The following year, Jerusalem was declared its capital, and it became the seat of the Knesset (the Israeli parliament). The Old City and East Jerusalem, occupied by Arab forces during the Israeli-Arab war that followed the proclamation of Israel’s independence, remained under Arab control until
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Jerusalem 1967, and East Jerusalem was declared the second capital of Jordan. In the 1967 Six Day War, Israeli forces annexed the Old City, and all of Jerusalem was placed under Israeli rule. Since that time, extensive preservation and restoration have been carried out in the Old City while the newer part of the city has been expanded by the addition of new housing developments. This expansion has made Jerusalem Israel’s largest city. In 1980 the Israeli government confirmed the official status of Jerusalem as the nation’s capital. 7
Government
As the capital of the state of Israel, Jerusalem is the seat of its government and home to all government institutions, including the parliament, or Knesset, and the Supreme Court. At the local level, Jerusalem is governed by a mayor and city council whose members are elected to four-year terms. Although Palestinian Arabs living in East Jerusalem have the right to vote in Israeli elections, they have refused to do so in accord with their refusal to recognize the legitimacy of the Israeli government. 8
Public Safety
In spite of the ever-present threat of terrorism due to Arab-Israeli tensions, Jerusalem is statistically safer than virtually any large city in the United States and many elsewhere in the world. In 1997, the city had a total of 22 deaths from terrorism and 16 non-terrorist-related murders. The
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streets of western Jerusalem are generally populated and safe at night. It is a common observation, applicable both in Jerusalem and other Israeli cities, that traffic congestion and aggressive driving are a greater threat to the personal safety of both drivers and pedestrians than street crime. 9
Economy
As the political, religious, and scholarly capital of Israel, Jerusalem’s economy is based on service industries, including government, education, religion, and tourism, with manufacturing playing a relatively small role. Preservation of the city’s historic character has also prevented the establishment of large-scale industry in the city and the surrounding area. In 1996 Jerusalem’s civilian work force numbered 188,500, of whom twothirds were employed in service-sector jobs. Jerusalem has a highly educated work force, bolstered by an influx of well-educated immigrants. But due in part to the number of Orthodox Jewish and Muslim families with singleincome households, the percentage of Jerusalem’s overall population in the labor force is relatively low compared to Israel’s other major cities of Tel Aviv and Haifa. In addition to the smaller work force, the economic status of Jerusalem’s residents is further lowered by the fact that the public-service jobs held by many residents pay less than jobs in such fields as manufacturing, commerce, and financial services. The average monthly salary for wage-earn-
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Jerusalem
The Shrine of the Book with the Israeli parliament, the Knesset, in the background. (A. Ramey; Woodfin Camp)
ing families in Jerusalem is significantly lower than that of families in Tel Aviv and Haifa. Jerusalem also has a higher incidence of poverty than the two other major cities. In 1996 as many as 21 percent of the city’s families lived below the poverty line, including 40 percent of the city’s children. In the 1990s, the number of families receiving public assistance rose steadily, reaching 32,600 households by 1996. 10
Environment
Jerusalem lies on the watershed between the hills and desert of Judaea.
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It has varied vegetation with as many as 1,000 different plant species. About 70 bird species are present year round, as well as 150 types of migratory fowl. The shoreline of the nearby mineral-rich Dead Sea, located in the Syrian-African Rift Valley, is the lowest point on earth. 11
Shopping
Jerusalem offers two distinctly different types of shopping venues: modern malls and department stores in the western part of the city and the Arab markets of the Old City. In the west, the major downtown shopping area is the central triangle formed by King George,
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Jerusalem Ben Yehuda, and Jaffa streets, home to two urban shopping malls and the city’s major department store, Hamashbir. The most upscale shopping, including most commercial art galleries, is found on King David Street, and the Nahalat Shiv’a neighborhood is known for its selection of arts and crafts. Further afield, there is Jerusalem’s largest suburban shopping center, the air-conditioned Kanyon Mall in the Malkah district. The most colorful shopping experience to be found in Jerusalem, however, is afforded by the crowded, bustling market stalls (or suks) of the Old City, where haggling with merchants is the rule and can reduce the initial asking price of an item by over one-half. A large selection of souvenirs is available for visitors of all religions, including many items that incorporate olive wood, silver, and turquoise. Ceramics are another of the many specialty items available in the market stalls. 12
Education
As Israel’s center of scholarship and religion, Jerusalem has a highly educated population, even exceeding the relatively high national average of the nation as a whole. Approximately 36 percent of the population over the age of 15 have had over 13 years of education, and 19 percent have had more than 16 years. (Among the Jewish population, these figures rise to 45 percent and 24 percent respectively.) Given Jerusalem’s high number of large families, the city has an unusually
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large population of school-aged children, numbering some 160,000. Of these, 65,000 are ultra-Orthodox children whose education is overseen by a separate Ultra-Orthodox Educational Department, and 24,000 are Arabs. Education for non-Orthodox or Modern Orthodox Jews is administered by the Jerusalem Education Authority. The following combined school enrollment was recorded in 1997: kindergarten, 25,427; primary education, 64,278; high school, 42,699; Arab students at all levels, 24,272; total, 159,403. Hebrew University, founded in 1925, is Israel’s most prestigious postsecondary institution. Almost 23,000 full-time students are enrolled at its regular campuses at Mount Scopus and Giv’at Ram, its medical school at Ein Kerem, and its agricultural college at Rehovot. The university, which has 1,400 senior faculty members, is the site of nearly 40 percent of all civilian research carried out in Israel. Other colleges in Jerusalem include the Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design, Hebrew Union College, and the Rubin Academy of Music. Al-Quds University, a national Arabic Palestinian university, is the only Arab University in Jerusalem. It was originally established in 1984 by the merger of four colleges in Jerusalem and its suburbs. 13
Health Care
Jerusalem’s best-known health care institution is the Hadassah Medical Organization, which operates hospitals at Ein Kerem and Mount Scopus. The
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Jerusalem 700-bed Ein Kerem Hospital is known for pioneering work with in vitro fertilization, bone marrow transplantation, laser surgery, gene therapy, and other areas. With 300 beds, the Hadassah Hospital at Mount Scopus serves the Jewish and Arab population of northern and eastern Jerusalem, providing facilities which include a physical rehabilitation center, a neonatal intensive care unit, and a hospice to care for the terminally ill. In 1998, the two hospitals recorded a combined total of 72,893 hospitalization, 250,952 outpatient visits, 22,068 major surgeries, and 114,992 emergency room admissions. Other hospitals in Jerusalem include Sha’are Tzedeq, which specializes in meeting the needs of Orthodox Jewish patients; Biqur Holim; alMaqasid al-Khayriyah, a Muslim hospital; St. John’s Ophthalmic Hospital; and Ezrat Hashim, a psychiatric facility. The Magen David Adom (“red star of David”) and the Red Crescent, counterparts of the Red Cross, provide supplementary emergency services to the city. 14
Media
Only one daily newspaper for the Jewish community is published in Jerusalem—the English-language Jerusalem Post (published every day except Saturday). This traditionally left-wing paper, founded in 1932 by the Jewish labor movement, has favored the right politically since its purchase in 1990 by the Canadian-based Hollinger media franchise. The bi-weekly Jerusalem Report provides in-depth English-lan-
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guage coverage of local, national, and regional events. The free monthly publication Your Jerusalem provides helpful entertainment listings and restaurant reviews for both visitors and residents. Several Palestinian publications, both dailies and weeklies, originate in Jerusalem, including the weekly Biladi, which is sold in East Jerusalem and the Old City. Jerusalem is home to the headquarters of the Israel Broadcasting Association, which operates two public television stations. There are also two Arabic-language television stations, an independent commercial station, and over 50 cable channels available. National Radio 1 broadcasts news bulletins and current affairs programming. Radio programs from the British Broadcasting Company (BBC) and the Voice of America are also available. 15
Sports
Sport is a somewhat problematic issue in Jerusalem, where the high-profile ultra-Orthodox community opposes it as a secular pursuit. However, construction of Israel’s national soccer stadium—the Teddy Stadium, named for former Jerusalem mayor Teddy Kollek (b. 1911)—was finally completed in 1992 despite ultra-Orthodox opposition. It is located in the Jerusalem suburb of Malkah. For those who are sports fans, the two favorites are soccer and basketball. The city’s premier soccer team is Betar Jerusalem, which won its league’s championship in 1993 and 1997 and competed for the European
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Jerusalem of the Cross. Directly opposite the Knesset is the Wohl Rose Garden, containing some 650 varieties of roses. Liberty Bell Park, which contains an exact replica of the U.S. Liberty Bell in Philadelphia, is a popular site for recreational activities and also has an amphitheater.
Dome of the Rock of Jerusalem. (Nathan Benn; Woodfin Camp)
Cup. The city’s basketball team is Hapoel Jerusalem, which plays home games in the Goldberg Sports Hall at the Teddy Stadium. 16
Parks and Recreation
Jerusalem’s parks, gardens, forests, and other cultivated open areas are maintained by the Jerusalem Foundation, founded in 1966. The city’s largest parks are Independence Park (Gan Ha’Atzmaut), centrally located in the downtown area of west Jerusalem, and Sacher Park, located further west, near the Knesset. Sacher Park is connected with a wooded area known as the Valley
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Southeast of the city, the Haas Sherover Promenade, between Abu Tor and East Talpiot, offers a dramatic view of the Old City and the Judaean Desert. Jerusalem Forest to the west has been planted with trees (said to number six million) in memory of the Jewish victims of the Holocaust. Another forest at the outskirts of the city is Nahal Sorek, located beyond Ein Kerem. Its caves contain interesting stalactite and stalagmite formations. Wadi Qelt, located to the east between Jerusalem and Jericho, is a desert gorge with a nature reserve, spring, waterfall, and aqueduct. It is also the site of the picturesque St. George’s Monastery, which is built into the side of a cliff. Wadi Qelt and Nahal Sorek are popular hiking spots. Popular recreational activities include soccer, hiking, and bicycling. Jerusalem also has both open-air and indoor swimming pools and a skating rink with artificial ice made of silicon. Sports programs are run by the city, the Young Men’s Christian Association (YMCA), and neighborhood sports clubs. The YMCA has a soccer field that can seat as many as 10,000 spectators.
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Jerusalem 17
Performing Arts
The Jerusalem Symphony Orchestra performs regularly at the Henry Crown Theater, part of the Jerusalem Centre for the Performing Arts (which also includes the Jerusalem Theater and the Rebecca Crown Theater). In the summer months, the modern Sultan’s Pool Amphitheatre, near Yemin Moshe, with a view of the Old City walls is a dramatic venue for both classical and popular concerts. Classical, jazz, and folk music concerts are performed at the Gerard Bakhar Theater. Concerts are also presented at area universities and at the Israel Museum. Jerusalem does not have a resident theater company, but audiences can attend performances by troupes from Tel Aviv (the Habimah and Carmeri Theater Companies) and by the Haifa Municipal Theater Company. The annual Israel Festival in May and June brings performances by additional groups from many parts of the world, and experimental theater can be seen regularly at the Khan Theatre. Musical theater, often in English, is featured at Tzavta. The Train Theatre is a railroad carriage that has been converted to a puppet theater. The Bat Dor and Inbal dance companies perform frequently in Jerusalem, as does the Israel Opera. Arabic theater and dancing is presented at the Al-Masrah Centre for Palestinian Culture and Art and the AlKasaba Theatre.
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Libraries and Museums
With some 2,500,000 volumes, the Jewish National and University Library is the largest in the country and has the world’s premier collection of Judaica. It also has excellent collections in archaeology and Oriental studies. Jerusalem’s other major libraries are the library of the Knesset, the State Archives, and the Municipal Library, which has multiple branches. The Israel Museum, located in Jerusalem, is the country’s national museum. Its holdings include some of the Dead Sea Scrolls, an extensive collection of archaeological artifacts from the Middle East, Jewish ritual art, Jewish ethnography, and sculpture. Archaeological exhibits are also found in the Rockefeller Museum, the Bible Lands Museum, and the Citadel Museum of the History of Jerusalem. Museums focusing on Arabic art, culture, and history include the Islamic Museum, the Islamic Art Museum, the L. A. Mayer Memorial Institute for Islamic Art, and the Palestinian Arab Folklore Centre. Specialized museums include Ammunition Hill Museum, commemorating the 1967 Six Day War; the Armenian Art and History Museum in the Armenian Quarter of the Old City; the Bloomfield Science Museum; the Burnt house of Kathros, the reconstructed home of a Jewish family during the era of the Second Temple; and the Second Temple model, a scale model of Jerusalem before the destruction of the Second Temple.
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Jerusalem
Jerusalem’s historic and religious sites, like these remains of a synagogue, make it Israel’s top tourist destination. (Israel Talby; Woodfin Camp)
Yad Vashem, in the Ein Kerem district, is both a museum of the Holocaust and a memorial to those who perished in it. The Historical Museum portion documents the Holocaust from the rise of Nazism through World War II. The Hall of Members Cemetery contains ashes brought from Europe’s concentration camps, an eternal flame, and pillars symbolizing the chimneys of the crematoria in which the bodies of victims were incinerated. Also included in Yad Vashem are the Garden of Righteous Gentiles and a Children’s Memorial.
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19
To u r i s m
With its religious and historic sites, cultural attractions, and picturesque mountain setting, Jerusalem is Israel’s foremost tourist destination, drawing one-and-a-half million visitors a year, or roughly 70 percent of all persons who visit Israel. In the same year, Jerusalem’s hotels employed 6,151 workers and welcomed 970,000 guests. The city has 65 hotels, with a combined total of 8,046 rooms. About 38 percent of travelers to Jerusalem come from the Americas, and 43 percent come from Europe.
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Jerusalem Jerusalem is also Israel’s most popular site for international conferences, hosting about 50 percent of all such events. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY-FEBRUARY Tu B’Shvat
DECEMBER Liturgica
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Famous Citizens
S. Y. Agnon (1887–1970), fiction writer. Yehuda Amichai (b. 1924), poet. Aharon Appelfeld (b. 1932), novelist.
Jerusalem Musical Encounters
David Ben-Gurion (1886–1973), Israel’s first prime minister.
FEBRUARY-MARCH
David Grossman (b. 1954), novelist.
FEBRUARY
Purim
MARCH International Festival of Poets International Judaica Fair
MARCH-APRIL Pesach (Passover)
APRIL-MAY Independence Day Lag Ba-Omer
MAY-JUNE Israel Festival Jerusalem Liberation Day Shavuot
JULY International Film Festival
JULY-AUGUST Tish B’Av
AUGUST Jerusalem International Puppet Theatre Festival
SEPTEMBER Early Music Workshop
SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER Rosh Hashanah Yom Kippur Succot Simchat Torah
OCTOBER Jerusalem Marathon
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER Chanukah
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Teddy Kollek (b. 1911), longtime mayor. Gershom Scholem (1897–1982), historian of mysticism. Chaim Weizmann (1874–1952), early Zionist leader and first president of Israel. Avraham B. Yehoshua (b. 1936), novelist and playwright. 22
For Further Study
Websites Focus on Israel. [Online] Available http:// www.focusmm.com.au/israel/is_anamn.htm (accessed December 30, 1999). Israel Tourist Information. [Online] Available http://www.infotour.co.il (accessed December 30, 1999). Jerusalem Post online. [Online] Available http:// www.jpost.co.il/ (accessed December 30, 1999). Jerusalem website. [Online] Available http:// www.huji.ac.il/jerusalem.html (accessed December 30, 1999). Ministry of Tourism. [Online] Available http:// www.israel-mfa.gov.il/sites.html (accessed December 30, 1999). Municipality of Jerusalem Website. [Online] Available http://www.jerusalem.muni.il/ (accessed December 30, 1999).
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Jerusalem Government Offices Ministry of Economy and Planning P.O. Box 292 3 Rehov Kaplan Kiryat Ben-Gurion Jerusalem 91131 Office of the Prime Minister P.O. Box 187 3 Rehov Kaplan Kiryat Ben-Gurion Jerusalem 91919
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Ministry of Tourism 24 Rehov King George Jerusalem 91009 02-675-4910 Tourist Information 17 Rehov Jaffa Jerusalem 02-628-0382
Publications Al Quds P. O. Box 19788 Jerusalem The Jerusalem Post The Jerusalem Post Building P.O. Box 81 Jerusalem 91000
Books Ben-Dov, M. Jerusalem, Man and Stone: An Archeologist's Personal View of His City. Translation from the Hebrew, Yael Guiladi. Tel-Aviv : Modan, 1990.
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Benvenisti, Meron. City of Stone: The Hidden History of Jerusalem. Translated by Maxine Kaufman Nunn. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1996. Dumper, Michael. The Politics of Jerusalem Since 1967. New York: Columbia University Press, 1996. Elon, Amos. Jerusalem: Battlegrounds of Memory. New York: Kodansha International, 1995. Elon, Amos. Jerusalem: City of Mirrors. 1st ed. Boston: Little, Brown, 1989. King, Anthony. Jerusalem Revealed. Cambridgeshire, England: Boxer Publishing, 1997. Kroyanker, David. Jerusalem Architecture. Introduction by Teddy Kollek. New York: Vendome Press, 1994. Nellhaus, Arlynn. Into the Heart of Jerusalem: A Traveler's Guide to Visits, Celebrations, and Sojourns. Santa Fe, NM: John Muir, 1999. Romann, Michael, and Alex Weingrod. Living Together Separately: Arabs and Jews in Contemporary Jerusalem. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1991. Rosovsky, Nitza, ed. City of the Great King: Jerusalem from David to the Present. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1996.
Videorecordings Jerusalem [videorecording] with Martin Gilbert. New York: A&E Home Video, 1996. 2 videocassettes (ca. 150 min.): sd. col.; 1/2 in. Produced by Krosney Productions for the History Channel. v. 1. From a dream to destruction. v. 2. Pilgrims and Conquerors. Jerusalem 3000 [videorecording]. Yoram Globus presents Jerusalem 3000. Burbank, California: Warner Home Video, 1998.1 videocassette (30 min.): sd., col. ; 1/2 in.
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Johannesburg Johannesburg, South Africa, Africa Founded: 1886; Incorporated: 1928 Location: On the Highveld in the South African interior Time Zone: 2 PM in South Africa = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: 70% black; 25% white; 5% Indian or mixed race Elevation: 5,700 to 5,930 feet (1,740 to 1,810 meters) Latitude and Longitude: 26º10’S, 28º2’E Climate: Temperate, with mild summers and winters Annual Mean Temperature: 15.5 ºC (59.9ºF); January 24ºC (75ºF); July 13ºC (55ºF) Seasonal Average Snowfall: N.A. Average Annual Precipitation (rainfall): 700 mm (28 in) Government: Municipal and local councils Weights and Measures: Metric system Monetary Units: The rand Telephone Area Codes: 11 (Johannesburg); 27 (South Africa)
1
Introduction
Located in north-central South Africa, Johannesburg is the country’s largest and fastest-growing city, with sprawling suburbs fanning out from the central city to cover an area of 1,100 square kilometers (424.7 square miles). The nickname “eGoli” (“city of gold”) evokes Johannesburg’s origin as a mining town in the late nineteenth century. Today, it is still the capital of South African mining and commerce and home to the headquarters of the country’s mining companies and major financial institutions, as well as headquarters to a variety of multinational corporations and transportation hub of southern Africa.
Johannesburg is also a city built on a history of racial division that achieved its most dramatic form in the twentieth century policy of strict separation known as apartheid. This legacy is apparent in the racial divide between its various districts and suburbs, ranging from the teeming streets of Soweto to the posh mansions of the northern suburbs. The political changes of the 1990s can be seen most readily in the central city, which has become a bustling multicultural area where thousands of street traders earn their living in the shadow of the city’s giant skyscrapers, and a blend of African and European languages evokes the city’s unique cultural and social history.
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Johannesburg
Johannesburg Population Profile Population: 2,412,000 Area: 1,100 sq km ( 424.7 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 70% black; 25% white; 5% Indian or mixed race World population rank1: 126 Percentage of national population2: 5.2% Average yearly growth rate: 2.1% Nicknames: Jo’burg; Jozi; eGoli (City of Gold); Africa’s Manhattan ——— 1. The Johannesburg metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of South Africa’s total population living in the Johannesburg metropolitan area.
2
Getting There
Situated on the interior South African plateau known as the Highveld, Johannesburg stretches across a series of ridges called the Witwatersrand, or “Rand.” Located near the center of South Africa and at the heart of a vast developed area in Gauteng Province, Johannesburg is a transportation hub for the region and the country as a whole. The closest major city is Pretoria to the northeast. Highways The Johannesburg area has a welldeveloped highway system that carries thousands of commuters between the city and its suburbs every day. The major north-south route, N1, becomes M1 when it reaches the metropolitan area, while N1 becomes part of an urban highway (the Eastern and Western Bypass) ringing the city. Also leading north out of the city, R28 joins N1
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leading to Pretoria and beyond. A number of highways radiate outward from Johannesburg to the east, south, and west, including N12 and N17 (east), N3, R26, N1 and R29 (both leading to Soweto from the south), and N14 to the west. Bus and Railroad Service Inter-city bus service is provided by Greyhound, Intercape, and Translux, all of which arrive at and depart from the Rotunda, which also serves as the city’s rail terminal. Airports Direct flights to cities in Europe, Asia, Australia, and the Western Hemisphere, as well as service to destinations throughout southern Africa are available at Johannesburg (formerly Jan Smuts) International Airport, South Africa’s largest international airport. It is located around 20 kilometers (12.4 miles) east of the city. International air traffic to Johannesburg has increased greatly since the lifting of foreign embargoes against South Africa in early 1990s, and major renovations of the airport are underway. 3
Getting Around
Greater Johannesburg consists of over 500 suburbs fanning out, mostly northward, from the central city over an area more than 518 square kilometers (200 square miles).
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Johannesburg
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Johannesburg Bus and Commuter Rail Service Double-decker buses are operated by the municipal transportation system, with most routes originating from the main bus terminal in Venderbijl Square. Buses run within the city and between the city and suburbs but usually not from one suburb to another. Since it is intended primarily for commuters, bus service is provided mostly during the work week, with few routes and infrequent runs offered during the weekend. Many blacks use minibuses, called “kombi-taxes,” operated by privately owned black companies. Sightseeing Bus and minibus tours of Johannesburg, Soweto, Gold Reef City, and area parks are available. There are also tours of the Parktown mansions. Specialty tours include balloon tours over the Magaliesberg Mountains and informative tours of Johannesburg mines. 4
People
Johannesburg is a multicultural and multiethnic city. Racially, its population is approximately 70 percent black and 25 percent white, with the remainder Indian or of mixed racial background. However, there is great diversity within each racial group. Virtually every ethnic and linguistic group in southern Africa is represented among Johannesburg’s black population, and the white population, although primarily of English or Afrikaans origin, also includes Greeks, Portuguese, Italians, Russians, Poles, Lebanese, and other
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groups. A dozen or more languages are spoken in the city on a daily basis. In 1995 Greater Johannesburg had a population of approximately 4.5 million. Its average population density was the highest in South Africa. 5
Neighborhoods
Central Johannesburg is laid out in a rectangular grid pattern with narrow streets dating back to the city’s early history, although today they are lined with office towers that turn many of them into virtual canyons and have inspired the nickname “Africa’s Manhattan.” The central city today is primarily a business district devoted to the financial and mining industries and government. Located in this district are the Magistrates Court, the Gauteng Legislature, the public library and main post office, the Johannesburg Stock Exchange, and the 50-story Carleton Centre with an observatory that affords an excellent view of the city. A variety of small shops and street traders provides a traditional atmosphere at odds with the city’s skyscrapers. The Newtown district just west of the city is home to a number of cultural institutions, including several museums. The northern neighborhood of Braamfontein is home to the University of the Witwatersrand. When first built, each of Johannesburg’s suburbs and townships was racially restricted under the apartheid system as spelled out in the Group Areas Act. The Group Areas Act was nullified in 1991, but Johannesburg’s
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Johannesburg
City Fact Comparison Johannesburg (South Africa)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
2,412,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1886
753 BC
723 BC
$172
$129
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$64
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$34
$56
$59
$62
$9
$14
$15
$16
$107
$173
$246
$207
11
13
20
11
Sunday Times
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
567,934
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1906
1944
1976
1948
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.) Total daily costs
$193
Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established 1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
neighborhoods remain largely segregated racially, with most blacks living in townships close to the central city. The two most populous are Soweto, with a population of at least one-and-ahalf million, and Alexandra, with about half a million. Living conditions in the townships range from middle-class enclaves to squatters’ camps with no plumbing or electricity. Black migrant workers still live in hostels on the outskirts of the townships.
The inner-city suburbs of Joubert Park, Hillbrow, and Berea are formerly white areas that blacks began moving into when apartheid began to crumble in the 1980s and 1990s. Today they are mostly black and house many immigrants from other parts of Africa, especially the Congo and Nigeria. The suburbs of Yeoville and Observatory, formerly Jewish and Portuguese neighborhoods, are multiracial areas with a colorful street scene.
Most of the city’s mixed-race population is clustered in townships west of the central city while the Indian population lives in the township of Lenasia.
Johannesburg’s western suburbs, including Briston and Melville, are home to middle-class whites while the northern suburbs, such as Parktown
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Johannesburg
Johannesburg is South Africa’s largest city. (Martti Kainulainen; Woodfin Camp)
and Houghton, are elite enclaves with posh homes. 6
History
Settlement of Johannesburg began in 1886, when gold was discovered in the Witwatersrand by an Australian prospector named George Harrison. The discovery spurred a feverish gold rush as fortune hunters from all over the world descended on the area. Blacks from all parts of southern Africa came to work the gold fields either permanently or temporarily as contract laborers. The government of the Transvaal, then a Boer republic, established a city at the site, and in the space of three
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years it became the largest settlement in South Africa. By the 1890s, several large mining companies had taken control of the area’s gold mines, creating huge fortunes for their owners. Tensions between the mine barons, the Englishspeaking newcomers to the area, and the Transvaal’s Boer government—fed by British colonial aspirations in the region—led to the Anglo-Boer War of 1899–1901. By its end, the Transvaal and the Orange Free State were under British control. At the start of the twentieth century, the population of Johannesburg had reached 100,000. Early in the century, the British colonial government
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Johannesburg began forcibly relocating blacks from the central city to areas on its outskirts, inaugurating the principle of racial separation that became entrenched in the administration of the city and eventually led to the system known as apartheid. The substandard conditions in which most of the city’s black majority lived led to protests and strikes, including a 1920 strike by 70,000 black mine workers. There was agitation among Johannesburg’s white miners as well, culminating in the general strike and “Rand Revolt” of 1922, in which over 200 people died. The growth of manufacturing in the 1930s and 1940s brought an even greater influx of blacks into the city, especially during World War II (1939– 45), when many white workers were serving in the military. The city’s black population doubled, with many of the new arrivals crowded into squatters’ camps. The beginnings of a black nationalist consciousness that arose during this period led to a white backlash in the 1950s when the conservative National Party came to power and implemented the policy of apartheid, banning all black opposition movements. Beginning in the 1960s, hundreds of thousands of blacks were relocated from Johannesburg to remote “homelands,” and their movements were regulated by strict enforcement of pass laws. The milestone event in the black resistance movement that eventually overthrew apartheid and white dominance came on June 16, 1976, when South African police opened fire on a
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student protest in the black township of Soweto. The shooting sparked a months-long popular uprising that spread to dozens of other cities in South Africa, and unrest continued through the 1980s, with massive violence erupting in Johannesburg’s black townships again in 1984. Black militancy, combined with the effects of international sanctions, finally toppled the apartheid system in the early 1990s and led to South Africa’s first democratic elections in 1994. With the removal of discriminatory laws, Johannesburg’s black townships have slowly been integrated into the city’s municipal government, and blacks have moved into formerly white districts in the central city and inner suburbs. The city still faces many challenges, including a serious crime problem and de facto segregation as many whites retreat to the northern suburbs. 7
Government
Greater Johannesburg has a multilevel system of popularly elected local government that has been in place since November 1955 and has extended the boundaries of municipal government to include the surrounding black townships in the political process. At the highest level, there is the Greater Johannesburg Metropolitan Board, a metropolitan council that oversees the distribution of municipal resources. Next there are four local councils that handle city services within their communities. The local councils are divided into wards, each of which has its own
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Johannesburg
A blend of traditional and modern architecture, a result of Johannesburg’s economic development. (P. Guerrini; Woodfin Camp)
elected representative. In addition to voting for individual representatives from their wards, residents also vote for the party of their choice in elections for both the local and municipal councils. Johannesburg is also the legislative capital of Gauteng Province (formerly called the Pretoria-Witwatersrand-Vaal triangle). 8
Public Safety
Violent crime is enough of a serious problem in Johannesburg, particularly in the downtown area, that many
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businesses have relocated to northern suburbs such as Rosebank and Sandton. Muggings and car-jackings are common occurrences in the central city, and travelers are routinely warned to exercise caution, whether walking, using public transportation, or driving. The government tourism office advises motorists to know their routes in advance, keep their doors and windows locked, lock valuables in the trunk, and park in well-lit areas. Traffic control is handled by local police forces. Other aspects of public
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Johannesburg safety are under the jurisdiction of the South African Police Services. 9
Economy
Johannesburg is South Africa’s major commercial, financial, and industrial center. It is home to the South African stock exchange, the leading banks, the country’s mining companies, the Chamber of Mines, and the government regulatory agency in charge of mining. South Africa’s major insurance, retail, engineering, and construction companies are also located in the city. Johannesburg is also a major manufacturing center whose factories produce a wide range of goods from steel to textiles. The city is also home to some 10,000 to 12,000 street traders whose operations in the central business district bring in an annual combined revenue of some 500 million rand. 10
Environment
The central city and some of the suburban areas suffer from a variety of environmental problems. These include water pollution from industrial effluents and sewer blockages, air pollution from industry and vehicle emissions, dust from mine sites, litter from the many street traders in the downtown area, and excess refuse caused by overcrowding (which also results in noise pollution). Soweto and the surrounding area have poor air quality due to the burning of coal and high levels of water pollution. Other than Soweto, the greatest environmental problems are
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Drums and hides for sale by a street vendor. (P. Guerrini; Woodfin Camp)
found in Alexandra, the Klip River area, Roodepoort, Orange Farm, and Poortje. 11
Shopping
Offering a great variety of consumer goods in its shops and malls, Johannesburg is one of the major retail centers in southern Africa and attracts shoppers from throughout the region. The thousands of informal street traders who operate in the central business district every day generate an estimated annual turnover of about 500 million rand. Greater Johannesburg is home to some 20 shopping malls. Among its more popular malls are the Carlton Centre, the Smal Street Mall, and the upscale Hyde Park Mall. Further afield
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Johannesburg are the Randburg Waterfront, a shopping center built around an artificial lake; the Rosebank shopping complex, which is a series of interconnected malls; and the huge Sandton City Shopping Centre. The city’s shops, galleries, street vendors, and flea markets make it the country’s premier shopping destination for arts and crafts, including wood carvings, jewelry, beadwork, and such traditional items as fertility dolls. Among the better-known crafts shops are Art Africa; Diagonal Street, which has a large selection of Sotho blankets; Jacana; Mai Mai Bazaar, which sells Zulu crafts, foods, and other items; and Zebra Crossing. A large array of crafts can also be found at the Rosebank Rooftop Market. A good selection of recordings of African music can be found in numerous small shops in the central business district. 12
Education
Although the legal framework for racial segregation has been dismantled, primary and secondary schools in Johannesburg, as elsewhere in South Africa, remain largely segregated in practice. Johannesburg is home to two universities. The University of Witwatersrand, originally founded in 1896 as the South African School of Mines, is the country’s largest English-speaking university, granting degrees in architecture, art, business, education, engineer-
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ing, law, medicine, and dentistry. The university has a staff of about 4,000, including 1,250 faculty members, and enrolls around 18,000 students, conferring 4,500 degrees each year. Its main campus, at Milner Park, covers 68 hectares (168 acres). Rand Afrikaans University (RAU), founded in 1968, offers degree programs to Afrikaans speakers. Soweto is home to a branch of Vista University. Johannesburg also has several technical and teachers’ training colleges. 13
Health Care
Decades of apartheid have left a legacy of substandard health conditions in Johannesburg’s black townships, where the incidence of infant mortality is significantly higher than that for the city’s white communities, and tuberculosis remains endemic. Located in the center of Johannesburg, Johannesburg Hospital, a State Health Service Hospital operated by the Gauteng Provincial Administration, is a multidisciplinary teaching hospital affiliated with the University of the Witwatersrand Medical School. The hospital has approximately 1,200 teaching beds in all areas of medicine. Its Level I trauma center, staffed in conjunction with the Department of Surgery of the University of the Witwatersrand, is the only comprehensive unit of its kind in South Africa and receives patients from throughout Gauteng Province, neighboring provinces, and neighboring states. The unit provides all levels of trauma care, from
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Johannesburg treatment of minor injuries to major traumas, and its staff has full 24-hour-aday access to diagnostic, laboratory, and therapeutic support facilities. Approximately 20,000 trauma patients per year are seen in the center, and some 1,500 major resuscitations are performed annually. Besides Johannesburg Hospital, other publicly operated hospitals include the J. G. Strijdom Hospital, the Hillbrow Hospital, and Baragwanath Hospital in Soweto. The city’s premier private health care facility is Morningside Clinic. Millpark Hospital is another private facility. 14
Media
Home to daily newspapers, major weeklies, and the country’s national television broadcasting service, Johannesburg is a major media center. The Johannesburg Star (circulation 206,000), an evening paper published seven days a week, is the major English-language daily. The Sowetan (circulation 225,000), South Africa’s top-selling daily newspaper, is targeted primarily to a black audience and is available throughout the country. The most authoritative news source is the Weekly Mail & Guardian (circulation 30,000). It is affiliated with and draws most of its international coverage from London’s Guardian newspaper. Business Day (circulation 41,000), also published in Johannesburg, is South Africa’s major business daily. The Citizen is a conservative English-language daily. Afrikaans newspapers include Beeld and Rapport.
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The government-supported South African Broadcasting Corporation (SABC) operates three public television channels. One broadcasts mostly in English while the other two divide their time among South Africa’s remaining ten official languages. News and sports programming and movies are available to viewers who subscribe to the M-Net satellite television service. The SABC also offers both AM and FM radio programming. Voice of America Englishlanguage broadcasts can also be heard in Johannesburg. As part of a nationwide telecommunications expansion, licenses for over 30 new radio stations were granted for Gauteng Province in 1995, most of them in Johannesburg. Notable for their quality musical and/or public affairs programming are Johannesburg’s Greek and Portuguese stations and stations in the black townships of Soweto and Alexandra. 15
Sports
With the end of apartheid, South Africa returned to international sports competition in the 1990s, most notably in the 1992 and 1996 Olympic Games. South Africa also hosted (and won) the 1995 Rugby Union World Cup tournament, giving the sport—traditionally considered a largely Afrikaaner pastime—a major boost in popularity. In Johannesburg. Rugby Union is played at Ellis Park in Doornfontein east of the central city. The main stadium there can accommodate as many as 100,000 fans. The South Africa Open tennis tournament also takes place there.
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Johannesburg The Johannesburg area has two venues for soccer, the favorite spectator sport of black South Africans: Rand Stadium near Turffontein; and Soccer City, on Soweto Road, which can hold 130,000 spectators. The Johannesburg area is home to two of the nation’s top local soccer teams, the Orlando Pirates (popularly known as the Bucs) and the Kaiser Chiefs. The traditionally white, English sport of cricket has attracted new fans through programs to promote the sport in the black townships. Wanderers in Melrose North is a top-notch cricket grounds; Elhak Ovel, a newer cricket site, is located in Soweto. Auto racing takes place at Kyalami between Johannesburg and Pretoria, and Turffontein is the area’s premier horseracing venue, with events scheduled nearly every week. 16
Parks and Recreation
Greater Johannesburg has more than 600 parks and green spaces, mostly in suburban areas. The Braamfontein Spruit Trail, which winds for about 25 kilometers (15 miles) through Johannesburg, Randburg, and Sandton, links a number of municipal parks in the region, including the 100-hectare (250-acre) Florence Bloom Bird Sanctuary, which encompasses two dams and has special areas provided for bird watchers. Other self-guided walking trails include the Bloubos Trail, the Parktown Urban Walk, the Sandspruit Trail, and the Randlords Heritage Trail, which includes views of the mansions
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built by Johannesburg’s early gold barons. The 60-hectare (148-acre) Johannesburg Botanical Garden in Roosevelt Park extension includes rose and bonsai gardens, pools, and fountains. Over 3,000 species of mammals, birds, and reptiles are on view at the Johannesburg Zoological Gardens, where large animals including lions, tigers, giraffes, and elephants are enclosed in areas surrounded by moats rather than locked behind bars. The zoo also contains a lake, with a playground area and rowboat rentals. Snakes, reptiles, and fish can be seen at Johannesburg’s Aquarium and Reptile Park. De Wildt Cheetah Research Centre at Silkaatsnek, where cheetahs and hyenas are bred, is north of Johannesburg and open to the public, with two-hour guided tours available weekends. The Suikerbosrand Nature Reserve, located on the Nigel/Kliprivier Road 40 kilometers (25 miles) from Johannesburg, is the most extensive nature reserve in Gauteng Province. It contains vegetation typical of the Highveld, as well as many bird and other wildlife species, and has hiking trails and facilities for picnicking and camping, as well as an educational center. Of archaeological interest are the Sterkfontein Caves and the Kromdraai Caves near the town of Krugersdorp west of the city. The nearby Rhino Nature Reserve has white rhinos, wildebeest, hartebeest, giraffes, and antelopes. The northern suburbs of Johannesburg have many parks and other open areas suitable for picnicking, bird watching, and other outdoor activities.
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Johannesburg South Africans participate avidly in outdoor pursuits, including such sports as soccer, rugby, and cricket, as well as hiking, rock climbing, horseback riding, bird watching, canoeing and rafting, flying and other aerial sports, such as gliding and hot air ballooning. 17
Performing Arts
Johannesburg offers a variety of resources for those interested in the performing arts. The National Symphony Orchestra performs regularly at Linder Auditorium in Parktown. Mainstream musical theater and opera is staged at the 1,100-seat Civic Theatre in Braamfontein, the city’s premier theatrical venue, which encompasses four stages. Experimental and ethnically oriented theater is offered at a variety of venues by small, innovative troupes. Johannesburg’s other well-known multi-stage theater complex is the Johannesburg Market Theatre, located in the city’s former produce market. It has three stages, and is the city’s traditional home for protest theater. Alternative theater is offered at the Windybrow Theatre. Leaders on the city’s dance scene are the Dance Factory and the Moving into Dance Academy, where many choreographers are trained. Johannesburg is South Africa’s premier locale for popular entertainment. Jazz, blues, and rock music are offered by both local groups and touring performers from all over the world. Major venues for large concerts are the Standard Bank Arena in Ellis Park and the FNB Stadium.
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“Bula Africa” Zulu dance troupe performs outside of Market Theatre. (Jason Laure; Woodfin Camp)
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Libraries and Museums
The Johannesburg Public Library, founded in 1889, has a wide network of branch libraries. Johannesburg has a diverse selection of museums and galleries. Established in the early twentieth century, the Johannesburg Art Gallery, in downtown Joubert Park, has South Africa’s most extensive collection of paintings by the European Impressionists. In recent years representation of African artists has grown, and today its gardens are enhanced by the work of South African sculptors while local artists receive exposure in temporary exhibits. Commercial galleries, such as the Everard Read Gallery in Rosebank, also display a wide variety of works by
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Johannesburg African artists, ranging from landscapes to traditional tribal art. Museum Africa, which dates back to the 1930s, has an outstanding section focusing on the history of Johannesburg, including such displays as reconstructed squatters’ shacks and homemade weapons. The museum’s other collections encompass geology, rock art, and the Bensusan Museum of Photography. Temporary exhibits are also displayed. The South African Transport Museum houses vintage steam engines and automobiles, ox wagons, and other items. Visitors to the South Africa Breweries Museum, in the Newtown district, explore the history of brewing, including the brewing of European ale and lager beer. The South Africa Museum of Military History displays weapons and war memorabilia dating back to the days of the Boer War (1899–1902). The Madiba Freedom Museum is dedicated to the life of national hero Nelson Mandela (b. 1918), affectionately nicknamed Madiba by his countrymen. Mandela’s hero status is based on his position as a black nationalist leader, joint recipient of the 1993 Nobel Peace Prize, and South Africa’s first black president (1994–99). The Workers’ Museum, located in a converted compound that once housed utility employees, is a national monument. Other museums in the Johannesburg area specialize in Africana, banking, archaeology, Judaica, and costumes.
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To u r i s m
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As elsewhere in South Africa, Johannesburg has seen a dramatic rise in tourism since the end of apartheid, with the greatest number of tourists coming from Great Britain. With the variety of cultural and recreational attractions in the city and its environs, tourism is expected to play an important role in its economic future.
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Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY-FEBRUARY Chinese New Year
FEBRUARY Castle Cup Cricket Final Botanical Gardens Autumn Show
FEBRUARY-MARCH FNB Vita Dance Umbrella
MARCH Human Rights Day Benson and Hedges Cricket Final Windybrow Theatre Festival
MARCH-APRIL Rand Easter Show
APRIL Family Day Constitution Day
MAY Workers’ Day
AUGUST Women’s Day
SEPTEMBER Guinness Jo’burg Jazz Festival Heritage Day
SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER Arts Alive Festival
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Johannesburg OCTOBER Currie Cup rugby final Johannesburg Biennale art exhibition
Virtual Africa. [Online] Available http:// www.africa.com/docs/satravel.htm (accessed December 30, 1999).
NOVEMBER SA Formula 1 Grand Prix
Government Offices
DECEMBER
Most government offices are located in the capital city of Pretoria.
Day of Reconciliation Day of Goodwill
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Famous Citizens
Nadine Gordimer (b. 1923), Nobel Prize-winning novelist. Miriam Makeba (b. 1932), internationally acclaimed vocalist. Nelson Mandela (b. 1918), black nationalist leader, joint recipient of the 1993 Nobel Peace Prize, and South Africa’s first black president (1994–99). Cecil Skotnes (b. 1926), painter and printmaker. Oliver Tambo (b. 1917), political leader and president-in-exile of the African National Congress. Desmond Tutu (b. 1931), religious and political leader.
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For Further Study
Websites Mail & Guardian home page. [Online] Available http://www. mg.co/za/mg (accessed December 30, 1999). TimeOut Johannesburg. [Online] Available http://www.timeout.com/johannesburg (accessed December 30, 1999). Tourism Board website. [Online] Available http:// africa.com/satour (accessed December 30, 1999).
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Tourist and Convention Bureaus Johannesburg Metropolitan Tourism Association 011–337–6650 South African Tourist Corporation (main office) 442 Rigel Ave. South Erasmusrand 0181 Pretoria, South Africa
Publications Business Day 4 Beirman Place P.O. Box 1138 The Sowetan 61 Commando Rd. Industria West P.O. Box 6663 The Star 47 Sauer St. P.O. Box 1014 Weekly Mail and Guardian 139 Smit St. Baamfontein P.O. Box 32362
Books Chipkin, Clive M. Johannesburg Style: Architecture & Society, 1880s–1960s. Johannesburg: Thorold's Africana Books, 1993. Kallaway, Peter, and Patrick Pearson. Johannesburg : Images and Continuities: A History of Working Class Life through Pictures, 1885– 1935. Braamfontein, South Africa: Ravan Press, 1986. McCrea, Barbara, Tony Pinchuck, and Greg Mthembu-Salter. South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland. Rough Guides. London: Penguin, 1997. Paton, Alan. Cry, the Beloved Country. New York: Scribner's, 1948. Schadeberg, Jurgen. Sof'town Blues : Images from
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Johannesburg the Black '50s. Hurlyvale, South Africa: African Book Centre, 1994. Sepamla, Sydney Sipho. A Ride on the Whirlwind: A Novel. New York: Readers International, 1984. Themba, Can. The Will to Die. Ed. Donald Stuart and Roy Holland. London: Heinemann, 1972. Thompson, Leonard Monteath. A History of
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South Africa. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1995.
Videorecordings Johannesburg [videorecording]. Super cities. Johannesburg. San Ramon, California: International Video Network, 1995. 1 videocassette (30 min.): sd., col.; 1/2 in.
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Lagos Lagos City, Lagos State, Nigeria, Africa Founded: As “Oko” (farmland), precise date unknown; later corrupted as “Èkó.” Christened Lagos, probably after lagoon, by Portuguese traders sometime after the mid-15th century. Incorporated: October 1, 1963. Location: Lagos State, Southwest Nigeria, Africa Time Zone: Noon = 11:00 AM GMT = 6:00 AM US Eastern Standard Time Ethnic Composition: About two-thirds Yorùbá; remainder mixed from within Nigeria and outside Elevation: Generally at or below sea level, some parts already under threat Coastline: 100 miles Climate: Tropical; rainy season May through October; dry season November through April Annual Mean Temperature: 70–79ºF [23–26ºC] minimum and 78–90ºF [28–32ºC] maximum Government: City-state; town clerk-city council; appointed administrators Weights and Measures: Standard metric Monetary Units: Standard Nigerian Naira equals 100 Kobo; 100 Naira = US$ 1.00 as of January 2000 Telephone Area Codes: 234
1
Introduction
Also known as “Èkó” in popular contexts, Lagos has been Nigeria’s premier city since at least 1861. Its role as entrêpot (distribution center) to the West African coast assured by geography, Lagos attracted Portuguese traders and had become a major center for the slave trade by early seventeenth century. From 1851, the British bombarded the city, seeking to expel Portuguese slave dealers, abolish the slave trade altogether, and establish legitimate trade in its place. In the process, the British set up their own colonial admin-
istration and finally annexed the city in 1861. The former city-state would soon become a bridgehead to the conquest of the territories that became Nigeria. In 1914, Lagos was named Nigeria’s political capital, retaining that status until 1991 when Abuja formally became Nigeria’s new federal capital territory. It has since remained Nigeria’s capital, except in name. Lagos is Nigeria’s most cosmopolitan city; it is probably also the most over-populated. At the first census in 1871, the city was home to just over 28,000 people; by 1952, the population
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Lagos
Lagos Population Profile City Proper Population: 1,200,000 Area: 69.7 sq km (27 sq mi) Ethnic composition: About 67% Yorùbá; remainder cosmopolitan, including from outside Nigeria Nicknames: “Èkó ar’omi sa l’egbelegbe” Èkó, The Island City; “Èkó ilé ogbón” Fountain of Common Sense; Gateway to the Federal Republic of Nigeria; Center of Excellence
Metropolitan Area Population: 13,488,000 Description: Èbúté Métta, Surùlérè, Àpápá, Yábã, Mushin, Oshòdì, Ìkejà, Bàrígà Area: 264.18 sq km (102 sq mi) World population rank1: 7 Percentage of national population2: 10.5% Average yearly growth rate: 5.4% Ethnic composition: 70–80% Yorùbá; 15% Nigerians; remainder non-Africans ——— 1. The Lagos metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of Nigeria’s total population living in the Lagos metropolitan area.
stood at over 252,000. In the 1970s, estimates ranged widely from near 600,000 to 1,500,000. These figures are not necessarily accurate, but they do suggest that Lagos is a city of immigrants. From early settlers through slave raiders to colonial officials, the city and its mainland towns had always been a place to move to in search of improved life chances, political power, better living standards, and exposure to the economic opportunities offered by the larger world. One of the city’s aliases, “Èkó ilé ogbón,” reflects these themes. It
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translates literally to “Ékó fountain of common sense,” but the metaphorical point is that doom awaits the visitor to the city who is not streetwise or the new migrant slow to adjust to urban and competitive lifestyles in greater Lagos. 2
Getting There
Lagos can be reached by air, water, and land transport. However, Nigeria’s railroad system, built from the mid1880s onwards, has not been expanded substantially since. The passenger-carrying ocean liner is no longer popular either. The two best ways to reach Lagos are thus by air and by road. Highways Three main bridges connect the city with the mainland. The first is the Carter Bridge, built in 1901. Èkó and Third Mainland bridges have been constructed only since the 1970s. All three provide easy and relatively fast access to the island. In general Lagos has by far the highest road density in Nigeria. Bus and Railroad Service There are no train services in the city, the closest train station being at Ìddó, on the bridgehead to the island. The automobile is thus the best means by which to get to the city. There are traffic tailbacks, or “go slow” in Nigerian popular language, in part because large numbers of people and vehicles compete for space. In the city some major streets are estimated to take up to 15,000 pedestrians and 7,500 vehicles
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Lagos per hour. Commercial vehicles, both buses and taxicabs, are available in reasonable number—many in bad shape physically. Parking space can be difficult to find. Airports The Lagos airport lies northwest of the city. Also known as the Murtala Muhammed Airport, it is also a major hub for flights within West Africa and between the sub-region and Europe. Cargo traffic averaged nearly 725,760 metric tons (800,000 tons) per month in January–March 1980. In the same months during 1983, over half of all outbound passengers in Nigeria’s airports (total 498,313) used the Lagos airport. Its average monthly share of inbound passengers (monthly average 190,000) was about 47 percent. In 1986, about 1.1 million international passengers used the Lagos airport; this was 85 percent of the total for all three international airports. The figures for domestic passengers are 2.7 million, or 72 percent of the total. The Lagos airport is thus Nigeria’s busiest point for international and local air travel. Shipping For long until the eighteenth century, the Lagos creek system provided the only outlet to sea-borne trade on the African West Coast. By 1907, construction work on moles for the Àpápá harbor had begun using rock brought in by rail from Abéòkúta. Its extension to the northern city of Kano in 1912
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assured Lagos’ long-term role as important entrêpot to Nigeria. Lagos ports handle for four-fifths of Nigeria’s imports and 70 percent of exports. The Àpápá port is estimated to be the fifth busiest in West Africa. 3
Getting Around
Lagos City is a picturesque mix of the modern and the traditional, with skyscrapers and glass houses sitting alongside old residential buildings. Construction activity makes parts of the city seem rather poorly planned physically. Bus and Commuter Rail Service Mini- and midi-buses, as well as larger lorries (motortrucks), known as molue, are the most widely used means of transport. The Lagos City Council owned stock in a private transport company until 1974 when the Lagos State Transport Corporation took over its operations. Despite large-scale public investment, commercial vehicles have been and remain largely privately owned. In the late 1970s, according to survey estimates, about 53 percent of all workers depended on the bus to get to their workplaces; one-fifth or 20 percent commuted by private automobile; another 20 percent walked to work while less than one percent traveled to work by train or water transport. The number of private cars has increased over time; in 1960, 8,800 licensed cars existed in the city; between 1970 and 1974, over 42,000 cars were registered. In 1985, nearly 20,000 minibuses, 6,000
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Lagos
City Fact Comparison Lagos (Nigeria)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
13,488,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
c. 1450
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$232
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$57
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$14
$14
$15
$16
$303
$173
$246
$207
Total daily costs Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
8
13
20
11
Daily Times/ Sunday Times/ Evening Times
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
400,000
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1925
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
midi-buses, and 30,000 taxis were estimated to run in metropolitan Lagos.
and Àpápá and from Victoria Island to Tarkwa Bay.
Bulk goods—industrial material, foodstuff, and export produce—have traditionally been transported by truck and train; in recent times, the railways have all but paled into insignificance in its share of business in this sector. Still, the trains have often provided very cheap, alternative transport for people commuting to Àpápá and Yábã from high-density residential areas, such as Mushin, Oshòdì, Ìkejà, and Agége. A metro conceived in the 1980s has yet to be built. Ferries run between Marina
Sightseeing
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Organized commercial sightseeing tours of the city are rare, yet the island is full of historical sites. A major monument is the Iga Ìdúngànràn, official residence of the Oba of Lagos on Upper King Street. Another is The Old Secretariat, built in 1906 to house colonial offices. It still stands a short distance from the Lagos Island Hospital. On the Marina stands NITEL House, Africa’s tallest building and
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Lagos home to some magnificent sculpture. Not far off is the State House where colonial governors lived until 1960. The General Post Office building and the Anglican Church, built in the eighteenth century, are worth seeing too. The NEPA building has a bronze statue of Shàngó, god of thunder, before it. The Elder Dempster building, originally the main office block for the passenger and freight steamship service to London and the West African coast, also stands on the Marina.
between non-Yorùbá speaking Nigerians, Africans, and non-African residents. The Yorùbás are also the majority group in Greater Lagos though longterm residence and the urge to partake in available economic opportunities may have encouraged assimilation on the part of non-Yorùbá immigrants. Ajégúnlè near Àpápá is the only mainland town in Greater Lagos where ethnic Yorùbás are a numerical minority.
The Tafawa Balewa Square now stands where once was the racecourse. Nearby are King’s College and old Supreme Court buildings. There is also Lagos City Hall, seat of the island’s local government. Nearly every street on the island symbolizes history; the interested sightseer cannot want for insights on life past.
The original settlement comprised what is now known as the City and Ìkòyí, both archipelagos divided by a man-made canal. They are bordered to the north by Èbúté Métta, Yábã, and Surulere, three mainland suburbs that are home to railway workshops and Army Ordinance Depot, as well as more recently built edifices, such as the University of Lagos and various private industrial and commercial establishments.
On the mainland, the National Theatre, main venue of the Second World Black and African Festival held in 1977, stands out among many other monuments. An exhibition on Nigeria’s political history runs permanently. 4
People
The city’s population estimates range from over 500,000 to 1,500,000; the number for Greater Lagos is estimated at 6,000,000 (1990). Population densities can also be as high as 20,000 per square mile in some places. Over two-thirds or 70 percent of the city’s population are Yorùbá-speaking, with the remainder divided
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5
Neighborhoods
What is now Greater Lagos used to be part of Western Region of Nigeria. Among the towns are the high-brow residential areas, like Surulere and Ìkejà, as well as densely populated Mushin, Agége, Oshòdì, and Ajégúnlè. 6
History
Lagos was settled at various times by hunters and fishermen from the Àwórì sub-nationality. Originally based in Iseri on the Ògùn River about 20 miles from the island, the initial wave of settlers led by Arómiré (“the one that becomes personable at the sight of a
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Lagos rests on the Gulf of Guinea. (Betty Press; Woodfin Camp)
river”), established a presence in Ìddó and Èbúté Métta. Arómiré also grew vegetables, especially pepper, on a site where Iga Ìdúngànràn, the palace or official residence of the Oba of Lagos now stands. Iga Ìdúngànràn is an Àwórì term meaning house on pepper farm. The palace is thus not only an important symbol of the historical traditions of Lagos; its name also helps keep alive the site’s association with vegetable farming by Arómiré, the city’s first settler. From these bases the Àwórì settlers moved further south, towards the creeks and the sea. One major reason why they moved was because their increasing population created the need for more space. Another was safety and security. Yorùbáland, of which Lagos
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was a part, had become embroiled in the long-running wars involving ethnic groups, communities, chiefdoms, kingdoms, and other political units of the time. The island settlements faced war from the Ègbás and the Ìjèbús, both Yorùbá-speaking nationalities. The ancient Benin Empire, in present-day Edo State of Nigeria also invaded the island around the year 1600. There are conflicting accounts of the latter episode. Some have argued that the Binis actually founded the Lagos monarchy or system of rulership, apparently in the image of Benin’s. Ashipa, the first Oba of Lagos, was a Yorùbá chief but not a Lagosian. It is known also that between the sixteenth and nineteenth centuries, the Benin Empire
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Lagos extended as far as Porto-Novo, west of Lagos. The Oba of Benin did appoint viceroys or representatives on the island and approved all appointees to the office of Oba of Lagos. In return, Lagos Obas paid tribute to Oba of Benin in recognition of the latter’s superior status. Other historians have insisted that the Oba of Benin waged war on the island for the same reasons wars were then prevalent. One of these was the desire by reigning monarchs to expand control over weaker, less populous peoples or neighboring communities, kingdoms, and empires. Another reason concerned the new trans-Atlantic slave trade. For those who participated in the trade as middlemen, warfare did provide a quick and sure supply of war captives who could then be sold as slaves and shipped to the New World. By an estimate, some 500,000 people may have been sold as indentured slaves and shipped from Lagos to the Americas and the Carribean, in particular Bahia, Cuba, and St. Helena. Anyway, for Arómiré and early settlers of the island, moving further south away from the mainland towards the sea was a mechanism to escape the wars that ravaged Yorùbáland from the seventeenth century. The wars and the disruptions associated with them were to become a justification for imposing British colonial control first on the island and later on what is now Nigeria. From the mid-nineteenth century, freed Yorùbá slaves started returning to Lagos in waves first from Brazil and then from Sierra Leone. In 1847, Oba
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Kòsókó of Lagos sent his close friend and adviser Chief Oshòdì Tápà to South America to invite slaves with Yorùbá ancestry to return home. The trip yielded results in 1851 when 130 expatriates arrived in Lagos. By 1861 when Lagos formally became a British colony, the number of returnees had risen to about 3,000. The Brazilian expatriates brought with them skills in masonry, carpentry, and tailoring, a strong Catholic faith, and extensive Portuguese cultural traits. Sierra Leonean expatriates, or Saros, mainly of Ègbá origins in present-day Abéòkúta in Ògùn State of Nigeria, started returning to Lagos in trickles about 1838. The reigning Oba Kòsókó did very little to make them feel welcome, so it was not until 1852 after Oba Kòsókó had been deposed by the British and replaced by Oba Akíntóyè, that Saros returned to Lagos in large numbers. They numbered about 2,500 by 1861 and were granted land in a district on the island still known as Saro Town. With their longer association with English missionaries, Sierra Leonean returnees appeared to enjoy higher standards of material comfort than Lagos indigenes. The Saros were devout Protestants and better educated in the formal sense too. These attributes were to stand them in good stead to play a leading role in the cultural life of Lagos; they also helped infuse their fatherland with a love of education. Their efforts were to help create a class of literate indigenes who led the fight for human dignity under British colonial rule and
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Lagos set the stage for the nationalist struggle that led to Nigeria’s independence in 1960. These main groups have since been joined by a more heterogeneous mix of immigrants from far and near. The Vaughan family has American ancestry while the Bickersteth family originated from Porto-Novo in present-day Benin Republic. Lagos is also home to people with Ghanaian ancestry. A much larger number have moved south over the years from other parts of Nigeria—for example, from the Nupe and Benin areas in addition to Yorùbá migrants, especially from Ìjèbú, Ègbá, and Badagry areas. 7
Government
The earliest attempt at modern formal government in the city occurred in 1899 with the establishment of a Sanitary Board. In 1917, a Townships Ordinance (or Law) established First, Second, and Third Class Townships. Lagos became a First Class Township and remained Nigeria’s only such township for a long time. By 1950, after a series of extensions to the powers of the Township, the Lagos Local Government Ordinance created a fully elected Council, making Lagos a self-governing municipality with its own mayor. The office of mayor was abolished in 1953, and traditional members or chiefs were brought on board. In 1959, on the eve of Nigeria’s independence, Lagos City was designated a Federal Territory administered by a Council comprising
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elected representatives, as well as traditional chiefs appointed by government. Since the 1960s, the fortunes of city government had changed along with Nigeria’s political climate; its administrative system has thus varied from elected council through sole administrators appointed by military governments. 8
Public Safety
Crime is endemic in Lagos. Property crimes, including armed burglaries and car theft, have been particularly high, fueled as much by large-scale unemployment as by wide disparities in income and life chances. Financial fraud is also rampant, the most recent variant being advance fee fraud, the practice of obtaining money by deception and/or false pretense, popularly known as “419” after the relevant section of Nigeria’s penal code. Traffic accidents are rife too, reflecting competition for space by people and vehicles, as well as disrepair in the latter. Crime statistics are wide of the mark: many incidents go unreported or become tangled in influence peddling and corruption networks. There are plans to increase the number of policemen and improve law enforcement generally in and around greater Lagos. 9
Economy
Lagos is Nigeria’s single-largest commercial center. Once described as an outpost of the industrialized West in
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Lagos In 1862, commercial exports from Lagos stood at £78,000 and imports at £62,000; by 1900 both had risen to £830,000 and £885,000 respectively. By 1975, about 55 percent of Nigeria’s industrial establishments were based in Lagos; these accounted for over twothirds of industrial output. At present Lagos State, of which the city is now part, is Nigeria’s smallest, occupying just 0.4 percent of the country’s land surface. Yet, Lagos State is also Nigeria’s most populous. It is perhaps also the only one state capable of generating enough internal revenue to sustain its operations. The city forms the nucleus of this affluence, home to most banks and other financial institutions, including the Stock Exchange. Lagos was established as a fishing resort, where fishermen rested and made repairs between trips. Today, fishing still contributes to the economy. (Betty Press; Woodfin Camp)
tropical Africa, it has a history of economic well being and relative affluence. The city and its neighborhoods had long attracted upwardly mobile and ambitious people from across the world. As gateway to western sea-borne commerce, and latterly to Nigeria, Lagos had started as fishing resort where fishermen from neighboring areas mended their equipment and rested between fishing expeditions. The fifteenth century brought with it contact with Portuguese traders, and Lagos soon became a major market and depot for slave shipment to South America.
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10
Environment
The city lay on a tapestry of islands, lagoons, and creeks interspersed by mangrove. Much of its land surface is barely above sea level; since 1989, parts of Victoria Island had been under threat from a rising tide. Land has been reclaimed to build a road on the Marina, as well as make the Five Cowries Island more functional; the flyovers between Ìkòyí and the island also stand on once-swampy terrain. Air pollution is endemic. Local historian Kunle Akinsemoyin has remarked that in present-day Lagos, “walking is … a dangerous hazard, cycling a perilous venture, for the motor car, particularly the lorries have grabbed the monopoly of roads from the cyclists.” This reflects several fac-
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Lagos
Street markets are popular in Lagos. Here, a vendor takes a rest from the busy shopping day. (Betty Press; Woodfin Camp)
tors, including overpopulation, weak physical planning enforcement, and emissions by vehicles and industrial plants. Sewage disposal has been long problematic. The Lagos lagoon has long served as dump for refuse and untreated sewage; it is thus extremely polluted. Greater Lagos is bordered to the east, west, and north by other towns in Lagos State. Of the 3,577 square kilometers (1,381 square miles) land surface in Lagos State, lagoons constitute about 790 square kilometers (305 square miles) or 22 percent of the total. Much
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of the state’s land surface is just over five meters (15 feet) above sea level. 11
Shopping
Lagos is renowned as much for row after row of shops as for its irrepressible street vendors. From dwellings through workshops to road shoulders and space between vehicles in “go slow,” hardly a square yard of space knowingly goes to waste without being put to some commercial use. The Jànkara market offers new or second-hand clothing, jewelry, musical
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Lagos instruments, and hardware; the Ìsàlè Èkó market is known for food items while the Balógun market specializes in imported and African clothing material. The Bar Beach market on Ahmadu Bello Road offers food products and handicraft, such as baskets, leather, and batik. Other markets in the city include the Ògógóró market, named after local gin, the main commodity on offer, and the Èbúté Èrò, Ìta Fãjì, and Sandgrouse markets. The Fálomo shopping center in Ìkòyí is on Awolowo Road. On the mainland the Téjúosó market in Surulere offers a variety of goods, as do other markets in Àpápá and Mushin, among others. In all cases, traders are eager to cut deals on prices; a consumer can buy cheap or dear depending on the state of business, the trader’s mood, or time of day. 12
Education
Education is traditionally regarded as a means of social mobility, so most parents are willing to invest heavily in children’s schooling. Much of the responsibility for providing education rests with the public sector; a large and largely uncontrolled private educational sector has thrived also, suggesting some dissatisfaction with public sector facilities and enabling the rich and powerful to get more value for their money. Islamic education had been available since the early nineteenth century. The first secondary school is the CMS Grammar School, founded in 1859 by Rev. T. B. Macauley, a Sierra Leonean
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expatriate. Known subsequently as Anglican Boys Grammar School, the school still operates today in Bàríga, one of the several outlying towns around Lagos. In 1960, the city had 112 primary schools and 20 secondary schools. Two years later, 124 primary schools on the island enrolled an estimated 96,152 pupils, divided roughly equally between boys and girls. Fifty secondary schools also catered to about 10,000 students, one-third of them female. Enrollment in all formal educational institutions, including the University of Lagos, totaled 108,140; just over half (52 percent) were male while 48 percent were female. The economic boom of the 1970s and elected civilian government from 1979 brought with them substantial expansion in educational facilities and access. In 1981, about 125,000 pupils, or one-fifth of the population, were enrolled in the city’s primary schools; secondary schools on the island also catered to about 26,000 or less than five percent of the population. By 1989, 877 government-owned primary schools in the metropolitan area employed 15,000 teachers; 342 secondary schools had nearly 12,000 teachers. Adult education programs also ran in the rural areas. The sex ratio has been nearly balanced over the years, though more males than females enter higher institutions, including universities. The literacy rate is estimated at 20 percent in greater Lagos. Figures for the city may well be double.
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Lagos 13
Health Care
Up until the early twentieth century, the city featured among West Africa’s “white man’s grave,” with malaria and yellow fever as main killer diseases. Sanitary conditions were among the worst in the sub-region too. Sewage treatment has remained a problem while malaria and yellow fever are under control. Present-day Lagos now boasts excellent health facilities, including numerous state-of-the-art private hospitals and maternity centers, the University of Lagos Teaching Hospital Medical School, a Dental School, an Institute for Child Health, and an orthopedic hospital at Igbobi. In 1988, 14 primary health clinics existed in the city; greater Lagos had an additional 60. The Lagos Island and Ìkejà general hospitals each had between 21,000 and 35,000 outpatients per month in 1989. Outpatients at health centers in Àpápá and Èbúté Métta stood at between 8,000 and 14,000 each month over the same period. The large numbers are as much indicative of the general population’s health as the popular response to subsidized health programs in the 1980s. By far the best-known hospital is the private Èkó Hospital on Mobolaji Bank-Anthony (formerly Airport) Road in Maryland, Ìkejà. 14
Media
Lagos Times was first published in 1880, starting a tradition of active and diverse debate in the mass media. The Lagos Daily News became the first daily in 1920 and ran until 1936, providing
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with the West African Pilot an urban perspective on Nigeria’s campaign for independence. Today Greater Lagos is home to numerous newspapers and magazines, most privately owned and retaining their editorial independence against the odds. Among government-owned newspapers are the Daily Times and the Lagos Horizon, owned by the Federal Government and Lagos State Government respectively. Older privately owned dailies include the Punch, Guardian, Concord, and Vanguard; all four also publish during weekends. The Post Express and P.M. News (an evening paper) were established in the late 1990s. The list of weekly news and lifestyle magazines published in greater Lagos include Newswatch, African Guardian, African Concord, Tempo, ThisWeek, and Tell. In turn, titles such as Quality and Lagos Life are devoted to soft human stories, gossip, and lifestyles. Private radio and television stations have been in operation since 1993. At least nine television channels and several radio stations are received with varying clarity in the city and metropolitan Lagos. Some private TV channels are seen to compete effectively with government-owned stations and are relied upon to furnish views not necessarily reflecting official preferences. 15
Sports
Football (known as soccer in the United States) was introduced in the 1930s and ping pong in 1949. The first
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Lagos
Lagos National Theatre. (Betty Press; Woodfin Camp)
sports stadium was built in 1930 and six years later named after King George V; between 1963 and 1973, it became known as the Lagos City Stadium. The Onikan Stadium, which replaced it, was opened for football and cultural activities in the 1980s. The Racecourse at Tafawa Balewa Square is underutilized. The National Stadium was built in 1976 in Surulere on the Mainland; its sitting capacity is estimated at between 80,000 and 100,000. Smaller facilities are scattered around Greater Lagos, for example in Agége and in premises owned by large commercial ventures. In the city, as elsewhere, the average secondary school is almost certain to have some
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facilities for athletics and at least football, the game Nigerians love above anything else. Lagos has been the main venue for several sports fiestas, among them the Second All African Games held in 1972 and the African Cup of Nations Cup tournament, co-hosted with Ghana and concluded in February 2000. 16
Parks and Recreation
The city is well built up, so open space is a rarity. In 1976, according to some estimates, open space amounted to only three percent of the city’s land
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Lagos surface, which translates to 0.01 hectare (0.02 acre) for each 1,000 people. A lot of recreation does take place on land not allocated for such purposes; social gatherings or parties also provide opportunities for recreation. 17
Performing Arts
The Yoruba tradition of the traveling theatre, or Alárìnjo, dates back to the sixteenth century, with groups providing live drama, entertainment, satire, and mild social commentary. The English language theatre boasts wellknown names like Nobel laureate Wole Soyinka, Femi Osofisan, and John Pepper Clark. The Lagos State Government runs a Cultural Standing Troupe, and amateur groups exist in several parts of the city. The Pec Repertoire Theatre is a professional company founded by writer John Pepper Clark. The typical state function or communal gathering often includes some dance and drama by children, women, or other social groups. As an art form, however, critical drama, especially satire, has often caused the odd inconvenience to politically insecure administrations. 18
Libraries and Museums
In 1962, the central library boasted over 7,500 adult members and about 12,000 children subscribers. The Yábã branch had about 1,950 adults and 1,500 children on its membership. The National Library is on Broad Street; the City also runs its own library. The British Council and the United States Infor-
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mation Service also offer library services from bases on the island. The National Museum is on Awolowo Road. The Onikan National Museum east of Tafawa Balewa Square is home to a variety of local art treasures and handicraft, including the Benin bronzes, the Ife and Owo terracotta busts, and the Igbo-Ukwe bronze castings. 19
To u r i s m
Tourism is not particularly developed in Lagos, yet the city’s history resonates in its diverse architecture and in the names given to streets, communities, and districts. For example, Oke Faji, Popo Aguda, Campos Square, Pedro, and Martin Streets are steeped in Brazilian traditions, having been settled originally by Brazilian immigrants who started returning in the 1850s. Saro Town was land assigned by the Oba of Lagos to Sierra Leonean expatriates after the 1850s. The Shitta-Bey Mosque and the Holy Cathedral Church, both in central Lagos, also bear testimony to Brazilian architectural influence. 20
Holidays and Festivals
In Lagos, as elsewhere in Yorùbáland, religious festivals including masquerade displays are occasions to commemorate the passing of the great and the good, cement relations between generations, and offer prayers for social peace and the well being of individuals.
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Lagos News, the first daily newspaper from 1920 to 1936.
FEBRUARY Àdìmú Òrìsà or Èyò masquerade display
JULY Festivals to honor Olókun, goddess of the sea (heavily patronized by fishing families)
SEPTEMBER Ìgunnukó masquerades (a tradition among the Nupe)
21
Famous Citizens
Alhaji H. P. Adebola (1920–82), a foremost trade unionist and railway worker. Felá Anikulapo-Kuti (1938–97), internationally renowned musician who used his Afro-beat music—a blend of African rhythm, Western instruments, and popular language—to campaign against official corruption and dictatorship at home and for respect for Africa abroad. Nnamdi Azikwe (b. 1904), politician who took a leading role in the Nige rian n atio nal i st m ov em en t, founded a series of newspapers, and became the first president of the Nigerian republic. Alhaji Lateef Jakande, the first elected Governor of Lagos State, serving from 1979 to 1983. Herbert Macauley (1864–1946), leading member of the Saro élite and major leader of Nigeria’s independence movement who ran the Lagos Daily
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Oba Adeyinka Oyekan II (b. 1911), the eighteenth Oba of Lagos. Madam Efunroye Tinubu (1807–85), an Ègbá slave trader whose influence meant trouble for the reigning Oba of Lagos. 22
For Further Study
Books Amman, Richard. Lagos Walking Tours. Port-Harcourt: Riverside Communications, 1994. Barnes, Sandra. Patrons and Power: Creating a Political Community in Metropolitan Lagos. 1986. Fagbamiye, E. O. ed. Educational Development in Lagos State. Lagos: Okanlawon Publishers, 1990. Lierberman, Irving. A Survey of the Lagos City Library. Lagos: Lagos City Council, 1964. Odumosu, O. Assessing the Quality of Working Life: Case of Lagos and Ibadan Cities. Ibadan: Nigerian Institute for Economic and Social Research, 1996. Olajumoke, Remi. The Spring of a Monarch: The Epic Struggle of Oba Adeyinka Oyekan II of Lagos. Lagos: Lawebod (Nig.) Ltd., 1990. Olomu, Olukayode A. Lagos State: The Cornerstone of Nigeria’s Economic Development. Lagos: International Management and Research Institute Limited, 1983. Olowu, Dele. Lagos State: Governance, society and Economy. Lagos: Malthouse Press, 1990. Onikoyi, Agboola A. The History of Lagos. Published by author, 1975. Peil, Margaret. Lagos: The City is the People. London: Belhaven Press, 1991. Shitta-Bey, S. A. The Origin and Birth of Lagos State. Lagos: Maybao Enterprises, 1979. Watson, G. D. A Human Geography of Nigeria. London: Longman, 1960.
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Lima Lima, Peru, South America Founded: Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro founded the city in 1535 Location: On southern bank of the Río Rímac (Rimac River), bounded by the Pacific Ocean on the west and the foot of the Andes Mountains on the east, in the coastal zone of central Peru, South America. Time Zone: Four hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Daylight Savings Time is observed from January to April. Ethnic Composition: 15% white, 37% mestizo (Indian-European mix), 45% indigenous people of Peru, and small numbers of Asians and blacks Elevation: 154 meters (about 500 feet) Latitude and Longitude: 12º0'S, 77º2'W Climate: The cool offshore Peru Current (also known as the Humboldt Current) affects the climate of the city all year long. From April to December, a cool air mass off the Pacific shrouds Lima with garúa, a dense sea mist that blots the sun and rusts exposed metal. During the summer months of January through March, Lima gets more sunshine, but humidity becomes unbearable. Humidity is high for most of the year, remaining well above 60 percent. Temperature: Winter temperature ranges from 60º to 64ºF (16º to 18ºC); summer temperature ranges from 70º to 80ºF (21º to 27ºC). Average Annual Precipitation: About 2 inches (50 mm) per year. Rain is often the result of condensation of the garúa. Government: Mayor and district council. As the nation's capital, Lima is home to the President of the Republic and Congress. Weights and Measures: Metric system Monetary Units: The Nuevo Sol (about 3.5 soles per US dollar in January 2000). Notes come in denominations of 10, 20, 50, and 100 soles. Coins come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, and 50 centimos, and 1 sol. The US dollar is widely accepted and openly traded. Telephone Area Codes: 51 (country); 14 (city)
1
Introduction
On its worst days, when the misty air hangs thick with fumes from hundreds of thousands of cars, trucks, and buses, Lima easily earns the moniker of La Horrible, as it is called by many of its citizens. Built to rule vast expanses of
South America more than 500 years ago, Lima no longer seems capable of even controlling its own destiny. Most of its seven million people live in poverty, barely scratching a living to feed large families. Cholera outbreaks have been common in the past few years, and the city has been the target of polit-
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Lima
Lima Population Profile Population: 7,443,000 Area: 3,900 sq km (1,506 sq mi ) Ethnic composition: Approximately 15% white; 37% mestizo (Indian-European mix); 45% indigenous people of Peru; and small numbers of Asians and blacks World population rank1: 26 Percentage of national population2: 29.0% Average yearly growth rate: 2.2% Nicknames: The name of the city is a corruption of the Quechua Indian name Rímac, which means “Talker.” Many residents informally call the city el pulpo (octopus) for its tremendous size. Its residents are known as Limeños. ——— 1. The Lima metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of Peru’s total population living in the Lima metropolitan area.
Pacific on the west and the rising Andes Mountains to the east. And yet, Limeños, as citizens of this city are known, are generally hospitable and charitable, even friendly to strangers. Hundreds of thousands of them came to Lima with virtually nothing to their names. Here, they built homes and families, and despite long odds, survived and even prospered. Many Peruvians continue to pour into the city looking for those same opportunities. Perhaps sensing that they have something at stake, the city's leaders have finally begun to rebuild old Lima, scrubbing its old buildings and reclaiming its streets. 2
Getting There
Highways ical assassinations, bombings, and statesponsored terrorism. Dubbed the City of Kings by its founder, the illiterate Francisco Pizarro (c. 1478–1541), Lima has struggled to maintain its dignity. It is not a pretty city, despite the tremendous amount of wealth that was originally spent to build it in the middle of a barren coastal desert. Even nature seems to have conspired against Lima. Three major earthquakes have leveled large parts of the city. For most of the year, a thick mist known as garúa envelops the city, slowly rusting away all exposed metal. With less than five centimeters (two inches) of rain a year, there are hardly any trees. The same monotonous barren landscape surrounds the city, stretching to the waters of the
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The Pan-American Highway crosses through Lima. Buses take about 24 hours to reach both the Ecuadorian and Chilean borders. Bus and Railroad Service Regional buses and trains depart from Lima to all corners of the country. The Central Railway of Peru has the highest standard-gauge railway in the world. From Lima, it climbs the Andes to La Oroya. The city is connected to the port of Callao by the oldest railway line (1851) in South America. Airports The Jorge Chávez International Airport is about 13 kilometers (eight miles) from the heart of the city, in the munic-
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Lima
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Lima ipal district of Callao. Several airlines, including major U.S. carriers, travel to Lima daily. Shipping Callao, located in the Lima metropolitan area, is home to the nation's most important port. Three floating docks have lifting capacities between 1,724 and 4,082 metric tons (1,900 and 4,500 tons). It also hosts more than 40 workshops for marine and industrial repair work. 3
Getting Around
Bus and Commuter Rail Service Lima is a megalopolis that is difficult to navigate. The city only has one highway and has not invested in largescale transportation systems, like underground metro or light rail. There are dozens of bus lines that connect different parts of the city, but buses are often crowded and uncomfortable. Roads are often clogged with traffic. Sightseeing While in Lima, visitors will want to see the Church and monastery of San Francisco, the Palacio De Gobiernor, San Martin Square, and the Gold Museum of Peru. Other sites rich in Peruvian history and culture include the Rafael Larco Herrera Museum, the National Museum of Anthropology and Archaeology, the National Museum of the Republic, the Museum of Peruvian Culture, and the Museum of the Inquisition. Parque Central is a relaxing out-
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door spot for visitors in the suburb of Miraflores. 4
People
Race and class define Peruvians. Limeños are deeply divided across class lines. About 15 percent of the nation's citizens are white, 37 percent are mestizo (Indian-European mix), and 45 percent are indigenous people of Peru. There are small numbers of Asians and blacks. One notable Asian is President Alberto Fujimori, of Japanese descent. Lima's racial breakdown resembles national characteristics. Nearly 30 percent of the country’s 25 million people live in the Lima metropolitan area, which has a density of 2,614 people per square kilometer. Between 1993 and 1998, the city's population grew by 2.1 percent annually. About 43 percent of the population are under the age of 20, and nearly 50 percent are between the ages of 20 and 60. Infant mortality is among the highest in the Americas at 57.5 deaths per 1,000 live births. In the last decade, more poor Indian immigrants have poured into the city looking for work. Class is directly tied to race. Most wealthy Limeños are white while some of the poorest people in the city are native Peruvians. Most Limeños are Roman Catholic, and many of the city's most important festivals are tied to religious activities. Spanish and Quechua, the language of the Incas, are the most widely spoken languages among Limeños. Quechua is mostly spoken throughout the
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Lima
City Fact Comparison Lima (Peru)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
7,443,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1535
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$125
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$63
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$16
$14
$15
$16
$204
$173
$246
$207
Total daily costs Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
37
13
20
11
La Cronica/La Nueva Cronica
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
208,000
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1912
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
Andes and by some people in Lima; however, Spanish is the dominant language. Some migrants to the city speak Aymara, the second most important indigenous language in Peru. 5
Neighborhoods
Lima has been shaped and reshaped by major earthquakes that have nearly leveled the city. The city suffered major earthquakes in 1687, 1746, and 1970. Only a few buildings survived the 1746 earthquake. In more modern times, Lima has experienced relentless growth, with neighborhood communities sprouting almost overnight. From 1940 to 1980, more than
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two million people moved into the city. But there were no homes for them. They built hundreds of thousands of shantytowns around the original city limits. The dwellings were made from just about any scrap material the squatters could find: cardboard, discarded wood, stones; sheets of tin for the roof were held down by old tires, bricks, and the weight of rocks. The shantytowns came to be known as barriadas, and later as pueblos jovenes, the young towns. In time, many of these young towns received basic services like water and electricity. Concrete or brick replaced the cardboard walls, and the shantytowns became established neigh-
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Lima
A view of Lima from San Martin Square. (Katsuyoshi Tanaka; Woodfin Camp)
borhoods. Yet, thousands of people who live in some of the poorest shantytowns only have the thin walls of cardboard to protect them from the elements. The poor neighborhoods stand in stark contrast with the more affluent neighborhoods of Miraflores and other wealthy suburban neighborhoods along the coast south of Lima's central area. Here, visitors could easily believe that nothing is wrong with Peru. Affluent Peruvians drink coffee and chat with friends at sidewalk cafes; the streets are free of trash; and many buildings are new. Mansions, luxury apartment buildings, and small homes with manicured gardens are found throughout the Miraflores area. Stores offer just about anything that could be bought somewhere else in the world. In many ways, it is a segregated world. Here, the rich seek protection from the masses.
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As Lima grew, the heart of the city was practically abandoned. At one time, central Lima was a prestigious address, with splendid mansions and imposing government buildings and churches. Colonial Lima was built with Peru’s own gold and silver, and no efforts were spared for the “City of Kings.” Today, little of that splendor remains. In a slow process, the government is trying to recover the heart of the city and make it more than just a passing point for Limeños. 6
History
The Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro (c.1478–1541) arrived in what is now Peru under propitious circumstances. The flourishing Inca Empire, which dominated an area that extended from Quito in present-day Ecuador to central Chile (4,023 kilometers/2,500 miles in length and 805 kilo-
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Lima meters/500 miles wide) had been weakened by internal conflict. The halfbrothers Huáscar and Atahualpa had waged a bitter struggle for the throne. When Pizarro arrived in Peru accompanied by 180 heavily armed men and 30 horses in l531, Atahualpa had gained the upper hand and ruled the empire, one of the most developed in preColumbian times in the Americas. On November 15, 1532, Pizarro arrived in Cajamarca, Atahualpa’s summer residence in the northern highlands of Peru. The next day, Pizarro took Atahualpa hostage. The Incas had never seen horses or experienced the wrath of modern weapons. With the element of surprise on their side, the Spanish shattered Inca resistance. While they would continue to resist the Spaniards for many years, the Incas never recovered from that first battle. After taking Cuzco in southern Peru, Pizarro began to consolidate his empire. In the arid coastal region, where people had been living for thousands of years, he founded the city of Lima on January 6, 1535. Because it was the day of the Epiphany (Christian holiday commemorating both the revealing of Jesus as the Christ to the Gentiles in the persons of the Magi and the baptism of Jesus), he named it the “City of Kings,” but the name never stuck. The city was in a convenient place, adjacent to a major river that provided plenty of fresh water and only a few kilometers from the Pacific Coast, where the Spaniards would develop the Port of Callao. The port became a major point of trans-
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Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro (c.1478– 1541) conquered the Incas and was the founder of Lima. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
fer of wealth generated in South America. Pizarro never got to enjoy the wealth he had stolen from the Incas. Nor did he spend much time in his new city. The greedy conquistadors began to fight among themselves. Pizarro and Diego de Almagro (1475–1538), a former partner in the conquest, went to
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Lima war. Almagro was captured and executed, and Pizarro was murdered in his Lima palace in 1541. The kingdom of Spain designated Lima the Viceroyalty of Peru in 1542, but several years would go by before it could reassert its authority. From here, the Spaniards ruled vast areas of South America. For the next three centuries, Lima boomed as the center of government, commerce, and culture. It was the seat of the audiencia, the high court, and the headquarters for the Inquisition. The monarchs, through their delegates, and the Catholic Church were firmly in control. For most of its colonial history, Lima was a small and conservative town, confined within its protective walls. An earthquake devastated Lima in 1746. Yet, with the wealth generated by thousands of indigenous people who mined for silver and gold under horrible work conditions, the Spanish rebuilt the city with more exquisite architecture. By the early 1800s, Lima was losing its influence. As other regions grew in importance, their residents began to resent Spain's rule and rigid trade regulations, which forced all trade to go through the port of Callao. Goods from Buenos Aires traveled over vast distances by land to get to Lima, where they were shipped to Panama, and then transferred to ships going to Spain. Santiago, in present-day Chile, and Buenos Aires were developing societies quite distinct from Lima. It was only a matter of time before they would seek their independence.
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When Napoleon Bonaparte’s (1769–1821; French general) forces invaded Spain in 1808, the Spanish colonies in the Americas took advantage of the favorable political turn and sought independence. Conservative Lima remained loyal to Spain, but its subordinate regions did not. Unlike other parts of South America, insurrection in Peru did not come from within its borders. In 1821, the Argentinean General Jóse de San Martín invaded Lima and forced the city's royalist troops to retreat into the mountains. The other great South American liberator, Simón Bolívar, moved in from the north to finish the job. Peru became the last mainland colony to declare its independence in July 1821. Lima later became the capital city of Peru. While it would continue to grow, it never attained the power and wealth it enjoyed during its colonial era. In the War of the Pacific (1879–83), Limeños endured another invasion, this time by Chilean soldiers who occupied the city for two years. The Peruvian government was forced into the highlands and was allowed to return only after signing a treaty favorable to Chile. Like many other cities, the development of modern Lima is traced to the construction of railroads and roads that made it easier for people to move around the growing capital. The first train line between Lima and Callao was built in 1851. Other lines going south followed, allowing the more wealthy Limeños to move along the coast. Here, they built the wealthier communities of Miraflores and Barranco. The new roads also made it easier for people from the
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Lima
Palacio de Gobiernor is the home and office of Peru’s president. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
highlands to move to the city for work. After World War II (1939–45), thousands of Peruvians were moving into the city each year, leading to the construction of shantytowns throughout the city. By the 1980s, Lima mirrored the nation's massive social problems. Crushing poverty, and injustice opened the way to several leftist guerrilla movements, chief among them Sendero Luminoso (Shining Path), and Túpac Amaru Revolutionary Movement (MRTA). While most guerilla activity took place well beyond Lima, the city was the target of assassinations, bombings, and state-sponsored violence. In 1996, the MRTA shocked the world by taking over the Japanese ambassador's
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residence, along with 72 hostages. Government troops liberated the hostages and killed all the guerrilla members in April 1997. While Peruvian President Alberto Fujimori has declared victory against the guerrillas, he has done little for the country’s poor. Lima has become the center of constant protests against the government. 7
Government
The provinces of Lima and Callao, each with its own government, make up the Lima metropolitan area. There are 45 municipal districts, including the capital district of Lima, within the metropolitan area. Each district is adminis-
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Lima tratively autonomous, with a mayor and city council. Each district generates revenues, such as property taxes, to provide services to its citizens. The arrangement has created huge inequalities in the metropolitan area. Wealthy neighborhoods like Miraflores provide relatively good services to its citizens. But some of the pueblos jovenes (young towns) cannot even raise enough revenue to provide bare necessities, like paved roads and water. The unwieldy arrangement makes regional planning difficult. Any action requires negotiated decisions among districts. A Metropolitan Council for Greater Lima, made up of district mayors, was supposed to facilitate regional cooperation. But local districts do not want to give up their autonomy. Leaders have called for greater intervention from the national government, but that is unlikely. 8
Public Safety
Violent crimes that include carjackings, assault, and armed robbery are common in Lima. Sometimes, people are kidnapped and forced to withdraw money from automatic teller machines before they are released. Thieves posing as taxi drivers prey on passengers, often in stolen vehicles. To curb crime, the government authorized military court trials for kidnappers and armed gang members in 1998. Tourists are particularly vulnerable. The theft of luggage and travel documents, including passports, is common at the international airport.
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Peru’s human rights record has improved, with a sharp decrease in the numbers of political disappearances and extra-judicial killings by government forces. Yet, international human rights groups continue to monitor the delicate political situation in Peru. The U.S. government remained concerned about reports of torture, arbitrary detentions, lack of due process, and Peru's reluctance to punish government and military officials accused of abuses. In June of 1999, members of the U.S. House of Representatives said they were concerned at the “erosion of democracy and the rule of law” in Peru. 9
Economy
Lima is the leading industrial, financial, and retail center in the nation. With nearly 30 percent of the country's population, the city dictates the national economy and accounts for more than two-thirds of the nation’s gross domestic product (GDP). Most of the country's imports and exports pass through the port of Callao. Almost all of the country's heavy industry is located in and around Lima. Despite its economic importance, Lima is not flushed with jobs. The national government has been a traditional leading employer, but the privatization of state companies left thousands of people out of work during the mid-1990s. The city suffers from severe unemployment and underemployment, and many people who work just barely manage to feed their families. Lima's economy grew rapidly during the mid 1990s, but a severe two-year recession that started in
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Lima 1997 left one out of two Peruvians living in poverty. 10
Environment
Lima is a grimy, noisy, and polluted city. The garúa doesn't help. The mist and low clouds trap pollution, and Limeños often can taste the fumes in the air. The city’s infrastructure has been overwhelmed by the rapid growth. Hundreds of thousands of people don't have access to basic services like electricity, water, and adequate sanitation. Wastewater goes straight into the Pacific without treatment. Cholera epidemics have been common in Lima for several years. While the government has identified pollution as one of its national priorities, it lacks the money for any major fixes in the foreseeable future. 11
13
Health Care
Health is a matter of class. Wealthier residents can afford good health care, and many of them often travel abroad for treatment. Millions of Limeños have little access to health care. There are 119 hospitals in the metropolitan area, with 2.7 physicians per 1,000 residents. Unhealthy conditions have led to cholera outbreaks. Tuberculosis is common among the poorest Limeños.
Shopping
Lima is not known for its shopping scene. The city’s wealthier neighborhoods and districts have the same types of stores found in the United States, including modern shopping malls. 12
ing University. The city has several private universities. Among them are the University of Lima, Pontifical Catholic University of Peru, Ricardo Palma University, University of San Martín de Porres, Women’s University of the Sacred Heart, and University of the Pacific. A university degree remains out of reach for most young Limeños.
Education
Most children attend school in Lima, but illiteracy rates have remained high. About 52 percent of students are in primary schools, and 33 percent attend secondary schools. Lima is home to some fine universities, including the National University of San Marcos, the oldest university in the Americas (1551), La Molina National Agrarian University, and the National Engineer-
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14
Media
Under the Fujimori regime, freedom of the press has been curtailed. The U.S. State Department in 1999 concluded the Peruvian government infringed on press freedom by harassing and intimidating journalists. Several international journalism organizations have condemned Fujimori’s systematic attacks on the press. Despite government pressure, several newspapers in Lima continue to report government misdeeds. The city is home to the nation's most influential newspapers, including El Comercio, La República, and Gestion. Twenty-five newspapers, including ten dailies, are
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Lima
A room from the Museum of the Inquisition. (Enrique Shore; Woodfin Camp)
published in Lima. El Comercio is considered one of the best newspapers in Latin America and has often taken a critical view of the Fujimori regime. The city also has a lively, but untrustworthy, tabloid press that caters to lowerincome residents. Caretas, a weekly newsmagazine, is widely respected and read. El Peruano is the official newspaper of record. Lima has eight non-cable television channels, including the government-owned channel seven, and cable television, which is out of the reach of most poor Limeños. Prices for cable television are comparable to those in the United States. Radio remains an important medium of communication.
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Sports
Soccer (futból) is by far the most popular sport in Lima. Professional teams are closely followed by Limeños, especially the home teams of Alianza Lima and Universitaria. The game transcends class, and neighborhood matches are found in just about any available open space. 16
Parks and Recreation
Lima is not conducive to outdoor activities. While the suburb of Miraflores does host Parque Central, Lima generally has few parks or open spaces.
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Lima The beaches off the coast are very popular and often crowded, but the coastline is heavily polluted by untreated sewage that flows untreated from the large megalopolis. Despite health warnings, many people still surf and play in the water. 17
Performing Arts
The symphony plays at the Lima’s municipal theater, which also hosts ballet, opera, and theater performances. The city also has many peñas, nightclubs that feature folk music. 18
Libraries and Museums
The library of the church and monastery of San Francisco is renowned for its collection of historical documents, including antique texts that date to the time of the Spanish conquest of Peru. The city has many museums. Among them is the Gold Museum of Peru, which has a large collection of preColumbian gold pieces. The Rafael Larco Herrera Museum has a large collection of pre-Columbian pottery, textiles, gold pieces, and many other items of historical importance. The National Museum of Anthropology and Archaeology traces the pre-history of the country through the arrival of the Spaniards. The city has several art and history museums. They include the National Museum of the Republic, the Museum of Peruvian Culture, and the Museum of the Inquisition.
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19
To u r i s m
While Peru's social problems have hampered tourism, thousands of people still come to this fascinating South American country. Lima is an important port of call. In 1998, 819,530 visitors from other nations came to Peru, and about 483,000 of them stopped in Lima. The average visitor to Peru stays 13.5 days, and spends about $1,100. In 1998, tourists spent more than $900 million. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY New Year’s Day
JULY Independence Day
OCTOBER Lord of the Earthquakes
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Famous Citizens
Saint Martin de Porres (1579–1639), Peruvian Dominican friar, canonized in 1962 by Pope John XXIII. Saint Rose of Lima (1586–1617), Roman Catholic nun, canonized by Pope Clement X in 1671, the first nativeborn saint of the Americas. Javier Pérez de Cuellar (b. 1920), Peruvian diplomat and fifth secretary general of the United Nations (1982–1991), negotiated an end to the Iran-Iraq war (1980–88) and ran unsuccessfully for the presidency of Peru in 1995.
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Lima Alberto Fujimori (b. 1938), of Japanese descent, became President of Peru in 1990. Francisco Pizarro (1476–1541), Spaniard who defeated the Incas and founded Lima. Meredith Monk (b. 1942), born in Lima, raised in Connecticut, she is known for her pioneering multimedia performance pieces. Isabel Allende (b. 1942), born in Lima, the daughter of a diplomat, she is one of the most successful female Latin American writers, renowned worldwide. 22
For Further Study
Websites University of Texas’ Latin American Network Information Center. [Online] Available http://www.lanic.utexas.edu (accessed February 1, 2000). Peru’s Chamber of Commerce. [Online] Available http://www.camaralima.org.pe (accessed February 1, 2000). Peru’s National Institute of Statistics and Information. [Online] Available http:// www.inet.gov.pe (accessed February 1, 2000).
Government Offices Peruvian Embassy 1700 Massachusetts Ave. NW. Washington D.C. 20008
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Tourist and Convention Bureaus Camara Nacional del Turismo Santander 170, Lima 18, Peru [Online] Available http://www.si.com.pe/ CANATUR/index.html (accessed February 1, 2000).
Publications La Republica. [Online] Available http://www.larepublica.com.pe (accessed February 1, 2000). El Comercio. [Online] Available http:// www.elcomercioperu.com (accessed February 1, 2000). Gestion. [Online] Available http:// www.gestion.com.pe (accessed February 1, 2000).
Books Andrien, Kenneth J. Crisis and Decline: The Viceroyalty of Peru in the Seventeenth Century. Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press, 1985. Cameron, Ian. The Kingdom of the Sun God: A History of the Andes and Their People. New York: Facts on File, 1990. Dietz, Henry A. Poverty and Problem-Solving under Military Rule: The Urban Poor in Lima, Peru. Austin: University of Texas Press, 1980. Lobo, Susan. A House of My Own: Social Organization in the Squatter Settlements of Lima, Peru. Tempe: University of Arizona Press, 1982. Starn, Orin, Robin Kirk, & Carlos I. Degregori (eds). The Peru Reader. Duke University Press, 1995. Stern, Steve J. Peru's Indian Peoples and the Challenge of Spanish Conquest. Madison: University of Wisconsin Press, 1999. Wachtel, Nathan. The Vision of the Vanquished: The Spanish Conquest of Peru Through Indian Eyes. New York: Barnes and Noble, 1977.
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London London, England, United Kingdom, Europe Founded: 1st century A.D. Location: Southeastern England on the Thames River Motto: “God save the Queen.” Time Zone: Greenwich Mean Time (GMT); 1 late October) = noon GMT
PM
British Summer Time (late March-
Elevation: 5 m (16 ft) Latitude and Longitude: 40º45'N, 73º59'W Climate: Mild winters and temperate summers Annual Mean Temperature: 11ºC (52.0ºF); January 5.5ºC (42ºF); July 18ºC (65ºF) Seasonal Average Snowfall: 20 days of snow, no accumulation; Average Annual Precipitation (total of rainfall and melted snow): 101.6 cm (40 in) Government: Mayor-council Weights and Measures: Metric system Monetary Units: Decimal system based on the pound sterling, a paper currency of 100 pence Telephone Area Codes: 20, followed by 7 or 8 depending on location; (UK Code, 44) Postal Codes: Letter for general area (E = East; EC = East Central; N = North; NW = Northwest; SE = Southeast; SW = Southwest; W = West; WC = West Central); numbers for specific district
1
Introduction
London, the capital of Great Britain, is also one of the world’s capitals of finance, fashion, arts and entertainment. The city has a recorded history dating back to Roman times and encompassing the lives of such illustrious political figures as William the Conqueror, Thomas à Becket, and Queen Elizabeth I, as well as those of William Shakespeare, John Milton, and the other authors who created one of the world’s great bodies of literature. Formerly the heart of a vast empire, Lon-
don was also a center of the Industrial Revolution (c. 1750) and a showcase for both the material progress and the dire social ills it created. In the twentieth century, the city has rebuilt and renewed itself following the devastating bombing attacks of World War II (1939– 1945) and discovered a new identity as a post-imperial, multi-ethnic metropolis. It enters a new century (and the third millennium of its history) reinvigorated by a booming economy, as well as the inauguration of a new form of local government.
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London
London Population Profile City Proper Population: 3,900 Area: 2.7 sq km (1 sq mi) Nicknames: The Square Mile, The City
Metropolitan Area Population: 7,640,000 Description: Consists of 33 boroughs Area: 1,579 sq km (610 sq mi) World population rank1: 25 Percentage of national population2: 13.1% Average yearly growth rate: 0% ——— 1. The London metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of England’s total population living in the London metropolitan area.
in France and Belgium. London’s train stations provide direct connections to the city’s buses and Underground. The Chunnel train runs between Paris and London’s Waterloo station. Airports Located 24 kilometers (15 miles) from the center of London, Heathrow Airport is one of the busiest in the world. Gatwick, which is about 40 kilometers (25 miles) south of the city, is less heavily used, but traffic there is growing steadily. Smaller airports are Stansted, used primarily for travel to and from the European continent, and London City Airport, which is popular with business travelers from elsewhere in Britain and from northern Europe. Shipping
2
Getting There
Located in southeastern England, London is approximately 80 kilometers (50 miles) upstream from the Thames River’s estuary on the North Sea. Highways Various highways lead into London from all directions, like the spokes of a wheel, intersecting with highway M25, which rings the Greater London area, and, farther in, with highways A205 and 406, which circle the central part of the city. Bus and Railroad Service Eurostar trains provide service between London and six destinations
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Historically, London’s location on the Thames and its proximity to both the English Channel and the North Sea—as well as its position as the center of an international empire—made it one of the world’s great trading centers. Until World War II the Port of London was the busiest in the world. Since the late 1960s, however, London’s shipping traffic has declined dramatically due to competition, labor problems, and changes in the shipping industry itself. In 2000, the Port of London accounted for only eight percent of Britain’s total shipping traffic. London’s port is administered by the Port of London Authority (PLA), which handles environmental and navigation issues for the part of the Thames
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London
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London that falls Through its dles a full shipped to world. 3
under its jurisdiction. 86 terminals, the port hanrange of cargo, which is destinations all over the
Getting Around
London can be divided into three concentric districts that reflect the city’s growth over time. At the core is the historic City of London, which covers only 2.6 square kilometers (one square mile). It forms part of a larger surrounding area known as Inner London, which was developed between the late eighteenth and early twentieth centuries. Inner London is surrounded by the remaining outer boroughs, consisting of residential suburbs built in the first half of the twentieth century, which complete the greater metropolitan area. The major means of orientation in Inner London is the Thames River, which divides the city into north and south. (Most important points in the city are on the northern bank.) Another major point of reference is the contrast between east and west: the wealthier and more prestigious parts of the city lie toward the west while the East End is a working-class manufacturing and shipping district. Bus and Commuter Rail Service Bus and rail services are operated by London Transport throughout the Greater London area. A fleet of about 5,400 buses covers 700 routes which encompass 140 bus stations and stands and some 10,000 bus shelters. The city’s
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underground trains (known simply as the Underground or “the Tube”) service over 260 stations; 500 trains make over 2.5 million passenger journeys daily. The £3.2 billion Jubilee Line Extension, opened in November 1999, runs between Green Park and Waterloo. It is the single largest expansion of the underground system in 25 years. Sightseeing A number of bus tours are available, including the hour-and-a-half Original London Sightseeing Tour aboard an old-fashioned double-decker bus. Harrods department store operates its own double-decker bus tours, and Big Bus Company, Ltd. runs two-hour tours in the summertime, covering 18 popular tourist attractions. Companies offering walking tours include the Original London Walks, Discovery Walks, Guided Walks in London, and John Wittich. The Port of London, an increasingly popular cruise ship destination, has four cruise ship moorings, at Tower Bridge, Greenwich, West India Dock, and Tilbury. Tours are also offered on London’s canals. 4
People
In 1992, the population of the City of London, the central downtown part of the city, was estimated at 3,900. The surrounding area of Inner London, consisting of the City of London and 13 boroughs of Greater London, had an estimated population of 2,632,100. Altogether, the population of the 33
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London
City Fact Comparison London (England)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
7,640,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1st century AD
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$219
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$79
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$20
$14
$15
$16
$318
$173
$246
$207
Total daily costs Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
21
13
20
11
News of the World
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
4,316,825
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1843
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
boroughs of the Greater London metropolitan area was estimated at 6,904,600. In the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, London’s immigrant communities were mostly small and self-contained, giving it a less cosmopolitan flavor than other comparable cities. Nineteenth-century immigrant groups included Italians, French, Chinese, Germans, Scandinavians, Irish, and, in the last decades of the century, Polish and Russian Jews. (More Jewish immigrants from both Eastern and Western Europe followed in the years before and after World War II.)
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Since the influx of immigrants from Britain’s former colonies that began in the 1950s, London’s population has steadily grown even more diverse. The new immigrants include West Indians, East Indians, Bangladeshis, and people from a variety of African nations. When the 1991 census was taken, one child of every three born in London was born to an immigrant mother. In 2000, nearly one-quarter of the city’s population was born overseas. However, much of the ethnic diversity of Greater London is concentrated in its western boroughs while those to the east are home primarily to British-born whites.
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London
A view of London from the London Bridge. (Jonathan Blair; Woodfin Camp)
5
Neighborhoods
Because London developed in a random fashion rather than according to a plan, it is actually a cluster of distinct neighborhoods rather than a unified metropolis. Outside the older, original part of the city, London’s various neighborhoods retain some features of the individual villages they once were before they were incorporated into the expanding capital. Each has its own character, with its own distinct combination of residents, building styles, and local businesses, and each inspires a strong feeling of attachment among its
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residents. However, there also tends to be diversity within these neighborhoods, thanks to London’s multi-ethnic population and the presence of public rental housing in most parts of the city, assuring some diversity in income level in most areas. London’s oldest district is “the City,” the part that corresponds to the original walled city (Londinium) built by the Romans in the first century A.D. and still occupies its original area of roughly 2.6 square kilometers (one square mile). Today it is home to London’s major financial institutions,
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London including the Bank of England and the London Stock Exchange, and is full of hustle and bustle during weekdays. However, only a fraction of the City’s busy work force actually lives there, so it is all but deserted on weekends. Located along the Thames in the western part of London, and to the east of St. James’s Park, Westminster is the political heart of London, home of the British parliament and the prime minister’s residence at Number 10 Downing Street. It is also the location of one of the world’s great religious structures, Westminster Abbey. Westminster has more historic buildings and fewer commercial sites than any other part of London and also encompasses the area known as Victoria, which gets its name from the Victoria Station stop on the Underground. Located in the fashionable West End, St. James’ and Mayfair are the wealthiest and most aristocratic parts of central London. The elite Mayfair district is the site of fashionable homes, luxury hotels, and exclusive shops while St. James’ is the home of Buckingham Palace and the last bastion of that traditional hallmark of British privilege, the all-male gentleman’s club. To the north is Marylebone, home of the famous Madame Toussaud’s waxworks. To the west, south of Hyde Park, is Knightsbridge, where the popular Harrod’s department store is located; it is one of London’s most fashionable residential and shopping districts. Further south lie aristocratic Belgravia and stylish Chelsea.
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To the north, the cosmopolitan neighborhood of Soho has been rescued from its one-time decline into a redlight district, although the famed Carnaby Street has never recaptured the glory of the 1960s when it was the heart of swinging London. With its great cultural diversity, this district boasts a large number and variety of ethnic eateries. Bloomsbury, a great literary and artistic center in the early twentieth century, is still the academic heart of London, as the location of the University of London and other colleges. Holborn, home to the Royal Courts of Justice, was historically—and still is—the city’s primary legal center. East of the City of London lie the neighborhoods of the East End, including Bow, Poplar, West Ham, Stepney, Canning Town, and others. This has traditionally been the poorest part of the city. Heavily bombed during World War II, the East End has undergone large-scale urban renewal, but the large immigrant populations attracted to the area’s low rents over the generations have left it a multicultural melting pot. 6
History
The Romans, who invaded Britain in A.D. 43, first founded London (which they called Londinium) at the site of the present-day City of London (the oldest, walled part or the “square mile”) on the northern bank of the Thames River. Although burned down in a rebellion a scant 17 years later, the city was soon rebuilt and had become a flourishing trading center by A.D. 100.
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London
Hyde Park is surrounded by London’s fashionable, stylish, and aristocratic neighborhoods. (Adam Woolfitt; Woodfin Camp)
By the middle of the third century, Londinium was the largest city in Britain, with a population of as many as 50,000 inhabitants, and its boundaries corresponded to those of today’s historic central core. In the fifth century, the Romans, under siege by Germanic invaders, vacated Londinium, and the city entered a long period of decay and neglect. Following a Danish invasion in 878, King Alfred of Wessex (849–899) retook and began rebuilding the city, which expanded northward and became known as Londontown. South-
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wark, on the south bank of the Thames, also grew and prospered, and Westminster, upstream from London and at that time an island surrounded by marshland, underwent development when King Edward the Confessor (c. 1003– 1066) built a royal palace there following his accession in 1042. This was the beginning of Westminster’s history as home to royalty and center of government. It was in Westminster Abbey that William, Duke of Normandy (1027– 1087), was crowned king of England following the Norman Conquest in 1066. To win the cooperation of London’s political leaders and wealthy mer-
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London chants, he granted the city special powers through a charter. By the end of the twelfth century, London had a population of around 40,000 and had elected its first mayor. In the fourteenth century, disaster struck, in the form of the Black Death, which spread to London via ships traveling from Europe and ultimately killed about one-third of England’s population. Over the next three centuries, London was to undergo several recurrences of the epidemic. The inception of the Tudor dynasty in 1485 brought the city further growth and prosperity, peaking with the reign of Elizabeth I in the sixteenth century, by which time London was the center of a global empire and one of the foremost cities of Europe. In the meantime, the population outside the city walls had grown dramatically, reaching 200,000 by the year 1600. Decrees were issued to slow further growth, limiting London to a “Green Belt” surrounding the outer city. The restrictions caused overcrowding in the central city, contributing to a new outbreak of plague in 1665. The following year, roughly twothirds of the city (by now the world’s largest) was burned down in the Great Fire. A massive rebuilding effort restored the city, with brick and stone replacing its original wooden buildings. A new grid-based plan for the city by architect Sir Christopher Wren was not adopted, however, and London’s layout essentially retained its original patterns. London grew rapidly in the eighteenth
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century, with a steadily expanding population and new streets and neighborhoods. Its first squares, including Covent Garden and Leicester Square, added new elegance to the fashionable parts of town. However, many in the oldest districts lived in dire poverty, and crime and rioting were commonplace. In the nineteenth century, the Industrial Revolution caused further deterioration in living conditions for many Londoners, polluting their air and worsening the already existing pollution of the Thames. Yet, London remained the largest and wealthiest city in the world and the center of a vast empire, and the Great Exhibition of 1851, held in the Crystal Palace constructed in Hyde Park, celebrated the city’s achievements. The two world wars of the twentieth century brought air raids to London; those of World War II left the city decimated and necessitated large-scale rebuilding. A major postwar development was the exodus of many Londoners to the suburbs. The drive to attract immigrant labor from Britain’s former Third World colonies turned London into a multi-ethnic city but also led to racial tensions. Recent decades brought the “Swinging 60s,” when London became the world’s capital of popular culture; the economic crises of the 1970s; and the Thatcher Era of the 1980s, when the Greater London Council (GLC) was abolished, leaving the city with no metropolitan government. As the twentieth century drew to a close, London was on
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London the eve of a new era in local government as its citizens prepared to elect a mayor and council. 7
Government
2000, mayoral elections scheduled for 1999 drew a colorful roster of contenders, including actress Glenda Jackson and novelist and political conservative Jeffrey Archer.
Public Safety
The City of London has had its own local government—one of the world’s oldest—since the Middle Ages. Even though it is now part of a much larger urban entity, the city has remained an autonomous jurisdiction with a Lord Mayor, a City Corporation, and, among other powers, jurisdiction over its own police force. The surrounding area of Greater London has been politically fragmented for most of its history. In 1965 more than 100 local councils were merged into 33 boroughs (one of which was the City of London), and the Greater London Council (GLC) was established to serve as the elected government of the greater metropolitan area. In 1986 the conservative national government led by Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher (b. 1925) abolished the left-leaning (and, by many accounts, ineffective) GLC, leaving the individual borough councils as virtually the sole governing authority for Greater London.
London’s Metropolitan Police District, first established in 1829, is responsible for an area of 2,035 square kilometers (786 square miles), which includes the entire metropolitan area and some of its environs. The City of London, however, has always retained its own police force in addition to the Metropolitan Police, and the two law enforcement organizations operate in tandem in the “square mile” at the center of London. Separate forces are also maintained by the Royal Parks Constabulary and the British Transport Police. Violent crime remains relatively rare in London, which is safer than many major cities in Europe and the United States. Although the regular police forces still do not carry guns, special “armed response units” now patrol the streets around the clock.
In a May 1998 referendum sponsored by the British labor government elected in 1997, London’s citizens voted for a restoration of government at the metropolitan level with the establishment of a mayor-council government to consist of a strong mayor directly elected by the voters and a 25-member assembly. With the new government slated to take office in the autumn of
London was historically a shipping and manufacturing city. However, both of these sectors have declined sharply since the 1960s. Over a million manufacturing jobs were lost between 1960 and 1990 as traditional craft-based manufacturing waned and newer growth industries relocated to areas outside both London and other major cities, aided by government incentives
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8
9
Economy
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London
A clock tower—popularly known as “Big Ben”—dominates the British parliament building on the banks of the Thames River in Westminster. (Karen Kasmauski; Woodfin Camp)
to attract industry to high-unemployment regions. Manufacturing has been eclipsed by financial services, in which London has become both a national and a world leader. In 1990, business and financial services accounted for one in six jobs. London laid claim to one-third of all British employment in this sector—reportedly the world’s largest concentration of such jobs in one metropolitan center. International banking, commodities, securities trading, and reinsurance services have crowded into modern office towers in the historic “square mile” of the City of London, providing new opportunities
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for commercial development, subject to the space limitations of the district. By the end of the 1990s, the recession of the early part of the decade was over; tourism was booming; and major public works projects were under way, spurred by the approach of a new millennium. 10
Environment
The industrial revolution brought both air and water pollution to London as early as the nineteenth century. The term “smog” was coined at the turn of the twentieth century to describe the mix of smoke from coal fires with Lon-
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London don’s characteristic fog. The heavily industrialized East End suffered the worst pollution of all. In the mid-twentieth century, the British government began to take action, passing the Clean Air Acts of 1956 and 1968, which outlawed coal burning. However, London’s air is still polluted by carbon monoxide, nitrogen dioxide, benzines, and other chemicals, and motor vehicle fumes remain a problem, endangering the health of London’s residents and even causing deterioration of the city’s buildings. Heavy smog was responsible for the deaths of over 160 people in 1992. Industrialization and unregulated sewage disposal also compromised the condition of London’s lifeline, the Thames River, which was so polluted by the mid-nineteenth century that its smell wafted through the halls of Parliament. Tighter pollution controls since the 1960s have improved the water quality of the river, and there has been an upsurge in the river’s stock of fish and other forms of aquatic life. Another danger associated with the Thames is the likelihood of flooding, which posed serious threats to the population in 1928 and 1953. Authorized in the 1970s, the Thames Barrier, consisting of ten steel gates, was completed in 1982 at a cost of £500 million. 11
Shopping
Shopping is one of the favorite activities in London for residents and visitors alike. Besides Harrod’s, wellknown department stores in London
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include Marks & Spencer, Selfridges, and Liberty. The West End is home to the greatest number of high-profile shops and department stores, many found in such key venues as Oxford Street and Bond Street. Another popular shopping spot there is the glass-roofed Burlington Arcade, which features a wide selection of shops and boutiques. Soho and Covent Garden both provide ample shopping opportunities, as does Knightsbridge, home of the famous Harrod’s department store. Kensington High Street is popular with devotees of youth culture while Kensington Church Street is known for its selection of antique shops. London’s open markets are legendary. The most famous is Covent Garden Market has crafts, antiques, and other specialty shops. The suburb of Greenwich is known for its flea and craft markets, which brim with customers every Sunday. Portobello Market in Notting Hill is another well-known venue for antiques. Charing Cross Road (made famous by 84 Charing Cross Road, a well-known book by Helene Hanff) is the city’s major booksellers’ district and includes a number of antiquarian book dealers. Other areas where London presents special shopping opportunities include designer clothing, china, and glass collectibles.
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London 12
Education
The 33 boroughs of Greater London are responsible for operating their own school systems, which are attended by nine out of ten children in London. The rest are enrolled in private schools. Among the most prestigious (with dates of founding) are St. Paul’s School (1509), Harrow School (1572), Dulwich College (1618), and the City of London School (1834). London’s 12 universities enroll more than 110,000 full-time and 50,000 part-time students. The University of London consists of some three dozen separate institutions located throughout the metropolitan area, including Goldsmiths’ College, Imperial College, King’s College, and the famous London School of Economics. Among London’s other universities are City University, Guildhall University, South Bank University, University of East London, and University of Westminster. 13
Health Care
In London, as elsewhere in Britain, both British residents and nationals of other EU countries receive free medical treatment under the National Health Service (NHS). Other visitors are covered for emergency care only. London’s oldest hospital, St. Bartholomew’s, was founded in 1123; other historic hospitals are St. Thomas’s (1213), Guy’s (1725), St. George’s (1733), and the London Hospital (1740). Among the city’s other health-care facilities are Chelsea and Westminster Hospital,
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Middlesex Hospital, Royal Free Hospital, St. Bartholomew’s Hospital, St. Mary’s Hospital, University College Hospital, Great Ormond Street Children’s Hospital, and Moorfields Eye Hospital. 14
Media
The newspapers available in London are mostly national publications. At the upper end of the respectability spectrum are the daily “broadsheets” (with circulation figures from 1998): the Daily Telegraph (1,047,861), the Times of London (766,999), the Independent (223,110), and the Guardian (393,856). All have Sunday editions except the Guardian, whose publishers put out the Observer on Sundays. The “middle-brow” publications are the Daily Mail, the market leader (2,387,867), and the Daily Express (1,118,981). At the bottom rung are the infamous tabloids, which cater to the universal taste for celebrity gossip, photographs by the paparazzi, and sensationalism of all kinds. Britain’s leading tabloid is The Sun, which sells some seven million copies daily. Its major competitors are the Daily Star and the Mirror. London’s only local daily paper is the Evening Standard, which resembles a local counterpart, the Daily Mail. More than 6,500 professional and popular magazines are available in London, one of the world’s publishing capitals. Women’s magazines are the biggest sellers. Fashion magazines, men’s magazines, and sports magazines are popular as well. International politics and busi-
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London ness are covered by The Economist. Other serious publications include The Spectator, the New Statesman, and Prospect. BBC-operated BBC1 and BBC2 provide London’s most-watched television programming. BBC2 is the more creative and offbeat of the two. Independent channels include ITV, Channel 4, and Channel 5. A wide gamut of FM stations broadcasts radio programming of all kinds. 15
Sports
In London, as elsewhere throughout Britain, soccer (called football) tops the list of popular sports for both spectators and participants. Amateur games can be found in parks and other green spaces throughout the city. The game is played professionally from August until May. The sport is organized within individual boroughs rather than citywide, giving London 13 teams, each of which is closely associated with a particular locality rather than the city itself. It is common for crowds of up to 15,000 to attend regular-season games, rising to between 30,000 and 40,000 for playoffs. In summertime, cricket is popular. There are almost 1,000 clubs, and amateur games abound. Spring brings the annual boat race between the rival universities of Oxford and Cambridge. London draws the international attention of the sports world every June when the Wimbledon matches are held, and horse racing remains a popular spectator sport although Londoners must travel to such venues as Epsom
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Downs and Ascot as the city’s last racecourse closed in 1970. Other spectator sports include greyhound racing, hockey, and auto racing. Both forms of rugby—rugby league and rugby union—are played in London, whose rugby league team is the London Broncos. The American games of basketball and baseball are growing in popularity. 16
Parks and Recreation
London is famed for the network of parks, squares, and commons found throughout the city. Two of the best known are Grosvenors Square and Trafalgar Square, the latter a major landmark and popular venue for street performers. London’s most famous city parks, all located in the West End, are St. James’s Park (the oldest one); Buckingham Palace Gardens, adjacent to the royal residence; Green Park; Hyde Park, the largest at 248 hectares (615 acres), and famed for its “soapbox” for public speakers; Kensington Gardens; and Regent’s Park, site of the Zoological Gardens and Regent’s Canal. Other green spaces include Chelsea Physic Garden, where medicinal herbs and other plants have been grown since the seventeenth century; Kew Gardens, famous for its trees and hothouses; the Hill Gardens; Kenwood; and Battersea Park on the south bank of the Thames. 17
Performing Arts
London, where the plays of William Shakespeare were written and staged, is still the undisputed theater
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London
Double-decker buses line Trafalgar Square, a major landmark and popular location for street performers. (Mike Yamashita; Woodfin Camp)
capital of the world. It is home to both venerable traditional companies and cutting-edge experimental troupes. The major established theaters are the Barbican Theatre, home of the Royal Shakespeare Company; the Royal Court Theatre, which produced the plays of London’s “angry young men” in the 1950s; the Royal National Theatre, which stages productions in three theaters; the historic Drury Lane Theater, which has stood since 1812; and, since 1997, the Globe Theatre, a replica of the Elizabethan theatre where William Shakespeare’s plays were performed
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that stands at the exact site of the original. “Fringe” theater groups present first-rate productions of alternative theater, revivals, musicals, and other contemporary works at the ICA Theatre, the Almeida Theatre (also the site of an annual festival of contemporary music), the Young Vic, and the King’s Head. London is also one of the world’s foremost centers for classical music, supporting no fewer than five major symphony orchestras: the London Symphony, the Royal Philharmonic, the Philharmonic Orchestra, the BBC Sym-
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London phony, and the BBC Philharmonic. In addition, the city is home to distinguished choral groups, early music ensembles, and chamber groups. These include the English Chamber Orchestra, the London Sinfonietta, and the Academy of St. Martin in the Fields. One of the world’s most famous concert halls is located in Royal Albert Hall, which hosts concerts by a variety of famous figures in the worlds of both classical and popular music, as well as a century-old London musical tradition known as “the Proms,” a series of orchestra concerts presented every summer. Two of London’s most famous theaters have undergone major improvements in the 1990s. The Sadler’s Wells Theatre, a hundred-year-old-building that is home to opera and dance concerts, was demolished (except for its original facade) and reopened as a redesigned modern facility in 1998. During the same period, the world-famous Royal Opera House in Covent Garden closed for 30 months for a $360 million renovation, reopening in late 1999 with a new foyer, as well as new backstage facilities, new rehearsal rooms, and a studio theater. Royal Opera and Royal Ballet both perform at the facility, whose new rehearsal studios will now make it the permanent home of the Ballet, which formerly rehearsed in other quarters.
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Derrick Coyle, raven master. (Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp)
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Libraries and Museums
London’s premier library is the British Library, whose collection encompasses some 12 million items, including books, manuscripts, and other materials. Formerly housed in the British Museum, it moved to a newly designed building in St. Pancras in 1996. Among the treasured artifacts contained in the library are two copies of the 1215 Magna Carta, a Gutenberg Bible, an early-fifteenth-century copy of The Canterbury Tales, and letters, journals, and early editions of famous British literary figures including William Shakespeare.
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London With over six million visitors a year, the British Museum is London’s most popular tourist attraction. From ancient Egyptian statues to the Elgin Marbles to an extensive collection of Japanese prints, the breadth of the museum’s collection, begun in 1753, is virtually unrivaled. Its present building was designed in 1847. London’s other major museums include the National Gallery, containing Western art from the Middle Ages to the present; the Tate Gallery, specializing in British art; and the Victoria and Albert Museum, devoted to the decorative arts. The Saatchi Gallery is known for its outstanding collection of contemporary (and sometimes controversial) art. The Museum of London traces the city’s history; William Hogarth’s satirical series The Rake’s Progress is housed in Sir John Sloane’s Museum; and the National Portrait Gallery features portraits of famous people in British history. Among London’s multitude of other museums are the Design Museum, which focuses on modern design; the Imperial War Museum; the Institute of Contemporary Arts; the Jewish Museum; the London Transport Museum; the popular Museum of the Moving Image, which chronicles the history of movies and television; the Natural History Museum; the Royal Academy of Arts; the Science Museum; and the Theatre Museum.
world’s great tourist centers. Over ten million people visit the city annually. Collectively, visitors to London spend over 100 million nights annually in the city’s hotels, and more than 200,000 people are directly employed by the tourist industry while tourism indirectly creates employment for many more. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY London Parade London International Boat Show London Contemporary Art Fair Charles I Commemoration
FEBRUARY Chinese New Year Great Spitalfields Pancake Race
MARCH St. David’s Day Chelsea Antiques Fair
APRIL Easter Parade Harness Horse Parade Boat Race, Putney to Mortlake London Marathon The Queen’s Birthday
APRIL-OCTOBER National Gardens Scheme
MAY Shakespeare Under the Stars May Fayre and Puppet Festival FA Cup Final Royal Windsor Horse Show Chelsea Flower Show
MAY-AUGUST Glyndebourne Festival Opera Season
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To u r i s m
London’s historic and cultural attractions have made it one of the
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JUNE Vodafone Derby Stakes Grosvenor House Art and Antique Fair Royal Academy’s Summer Exhibition Royal Ascot Week
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London Trooping the Colour Lawn Tennis Championships (Wimbledon)
William Shakespeare (1564–1616), playwright and poet.
JULY
Oliver Cromwell (1599–1658), soldier and statesman, lord protector of England.
City of London Festival Hampton Court Palace Flower Show Royal Tournament
JULY-SEPTEMBER Kenwood Lakeside Concerts Henry Wood Promenade Concerts at Royal Albert Hall (“the Proms”)
AUGUST Notting Hill Carnival
SEPTEMBER Chelsea Antiques Fair Horse of the Year Show
OCTOBER Opening of Parliament
NOVEMBER Guy Fawkes Night Lord Mayor’s Procession and Show
DECEMBER Caroling Under the Norwegian Christmas Tree Watch Night
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Famous Citizens
Thomas à Becket (1118–1170), saint and martyr, archbishop of Canterbury. Poet Geoffrey Chaucer (1343–1400), author of The Canterbury Tales.
Poet John Milton (1608–1674), author of Paradise Lost. John Dryden (1631–1700), poet and literary critic. Samuel Pepys (1633–1703), diarist. Henry Purcell (1659–1695), composer. Sir Christopher Wren (1632–1723), architect. Alexander Pope (1688–1744), poet and satirist. William Hogarth (1697–1764), painter and engraver. Samuel Johnson (1709–84), essayist, critic, and lexicographer. Sir Joshua Reynolds (1723–92), portrait painter. James Boswell (1740–95), diarist and biographer of Johnson. William Blake (1757–1827), poet.
Thomas More (1477–1535), statesman and author of Utopia.
Joseph Turner (1775–1851), painter, master of landscape art and watercolour.
King Henry VIII (1491–1547), Tudor king and founder of the Church of England.
William Makepeace Thackeray (1811– 1863), novelist.
Queen Elizabeth I (1533–1603). Francis Bacon (1561–1626), writer and philosopher.
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Charles Dickens (1812–1870), novelist. Poets Robert Browning (1812–1889) and Elizabeth Barrett Browning (1806–1861).
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London Queen Victoria (1819–1901). William Gilbert (1836–1911), librettist. Arthur Sullivan (1842–1900), composer. Winston Churchill (1874–1965), prime minister during World War II. Virginia Woolf (1882–1941), novelist. T. S. Eliot (b. United States, 1888–1965), American-born British poet, critic, and dramatist. Charlie Chaplin (1889–1977), screen actor. Alfred Hitchcock (1889–1980), movie director. Margaret Thatcher (b. 1925), prime minister. Queen Elizabeth II (b. 1926), ascended to the throne in 1952. 22
For Further Study
Websites Digital City: London. [Online] Available http:// london.digitalcity.com (accessed December 20, 1999). London official internet site. [Online] Available http://www.LondonTown.com (accessed December 20, 1999). This is London. [Online] Available http:// www.thisislondon.com (accessed December 20, 1999). Time Out London. [Online] Available http:// www.timeout.com/london (accessed December 20, 1999). UK for Visitors. [Online] Available http:// gouk.miningco.com (accessed December 20, 1999).
Government Offices Prime Minister’s Office 10 Downing St. London SW1A 2AA
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Home Office 50 Queen Anne’s Gate London SW1H 9AT Lord Chancellor’s Department House of Lords London SW1A 0PW
Tourist and Convention Bureaus British Tourist Authority Thames Tower Black’s Rd. London W6 9EL United Kingdom British Visitor Centre 1 Regent St. Piccadilly Circus London SW1Y 4PQ
Publications The Daily Telegraph 1 Canada Sq., Canary Wharf London, E14 5DT The Guardian 119 Farrington Rd. London, EC1R 3ER The Sun Virginia St. London E1 9XJ The Times Virginia St. London, E1 9XT
Books Bradley, Simon and Nikolaus Pevsner. London: The City Churches. London: Penguin Books, 1998. Butler, Brian. London for Free: Hundreds of Free Things to Do in London. 3rd rev. ed. Memphis, TN: Mustang Publishing, 1997. Clout, Hugh, ed. The Times London History Atlas. New York: HarperCollins, 1991. Collin, Francesca. The Arts & Entertainment in London. New York: Sterling Publishing, 1997. Davies, Andrew. Literary London. New York: St. Martin's Press, 1988. Duncan, Andrew. Walking London: Thirty Original Walks in and around London. Lincolnwood, IL: Passport Books, 1994. Edel, Leon. Bloomsbury: A House of Lions. 1st ed. Philadelphia: Lippincott, 1979.
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London Hall, Peter. London 2001. Boston: Unwin Hyman, 1989. Hendershott, Barbara Sloan, and Alzina Stone Dale. Mystery Reader's Walking Guide, London. 2nd ed. Lincolnwood, IL: Passport Books, 1996. Howes, Karen. Living in London. Photographs by Simon Upton. London: Thames & Hudson, 1999. Kureishi, Hanif. London Kills Me: Three Screenplays and Four Essays. New York: Penguin Books, 1992.
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Lain, Larry, and Michael Lain. London for Families. New York: Interlink Books, 1997. Parnell, Geoffrey. Book of the Tower of London. London: B.T. Batsford, 1993. Porter, Roy. London: A Social History. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1994. Weinreb, Ben, and Christopher Hibbert. London Encyclopaedia. Rev. ed. London: MacMillan, 1993. Young, Ken, and Patricia L. Garside. Metropolitan London, Politics and Urban Change, 1837– 1981. New York: Holmes & Meier, 1982.
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Los Angeles Los Angeles, California, United States of America, North America Founded: 1781; Incorporated: 1850 Location: Pacific Coast of southern California, United States, North America Time Zone: 4 AM Pacific Standard Time (PST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Flag: Adopted in 1931, flag features the city seal centered on three panels (left to right): green symbolizing olive trees, yellow symbolizing orange groves, and red symbolizing grape vineyards. Ethnic Composition: White, 75.7%; Black, 14%; Asian/Pacific Islander, 9.8% (1990) Elevation: Sea level to 1,548 m (5,080 ft) above sea level Latitude and Longitude: 34º05'N, 118º24'W Climate: Mild temperatures year round, many sunny afternoons Annual Mean Temperature: 18.7ºC (65.3ºF); January 12.6ºC (54.5ºF); July 20.3ºC (68.5ºF) Average Annual Precipitation (rainfall): 37.6 cm (14.8 in) Government: Mayor-council Weights and Measures: Standard U.S. Monetary Units: Standard U.S. Telephone Area Codes: 213 (downtown), 323, 310, 562, 626 Postal Codes: 90001–68; 90070–99; 90101
1
Introduction
Located on Southern California’s Pacific coast, Los Angeles has long been known as a city of dreams, a place for the dispossessed or disillusioned to start over and rebuild their lives. In the course of the twentieth century it grew to be the second-largest city in the United States and the hub of a fivecounty metropolitan area. A tourist magnet known for its sunny climate, beautiful beaches, and entertainment industry, Los Angeles in recent decades has experienced the downside of urban expansion, with its well-publicized air pollution, traffic congestion, and racial and ethnic tensions. Yet the city remains a colorful, thriving metropolis
working to overcome the problems of suburban sprawl as it heads into a new century. 2
Getting There
Los Angeles is located in southern California, on the Pacific Coast, with the Santa Monica Mountains to the north and the San Gabriel Mountains to the east. Highways Los Angeles is known for its crowded, labyrinthine freeway system, which offers access to the city through multiple north-south and east-west routes. The major north-south high-
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Los Angeles Bus and Railroad Service
Los Angeles Population Profile City Proper Population: 3,449,000 Area: 1,215 sq km (469.3 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 75.7% white; 14% black; 9.8% Asian/Pacific Islander Nicknames: Tinseltown (Hollywood)
Metropolitan Area Population: 13,129,000 Description: Los Angeles-Long Beach PMSA Area: 10,515 sq km (4,060 sq mi) World population rank1: 8 Percentage of national population2: 4.7% Average yearly growth rate: 1.1% Ethnic composition: 75.2% white; 11.2% black; and 12.9% Asian/Pacific Islander ——— 1. The Los Angeles metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the United States’ total population living in the Los Angeles metropolitan area.
ways are I-5 (the Golden State and Santa Ana freeways), I-15 (which extends from the Canadian border to San Diego), US Highway 101 (the Ventura and Hollywood freeways), extending south along the Pacific coast from Washington State, and State Highway 1 (the Pacific Coast Highway), stretching along the coast from San Diego to San Francisco and beyond. East-west freeways include I-8, which runs between California and Arizona, I-10 (the San Bernardino and Santa Monica freeways), which traverses the country between Santa Monica and Jacksonville, Florida, and I-40, stretching from California to Tennessee.
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Amtrak provides service from Union Station in downtown Los Angeles. The Sunset Limited travels crosscountry between Los Angeles and New Orleans; the Coast Starlight, as its name suggests, follows a coastal route from southern California to Seattle; the San Diegan runs from Los Angeles to San Diego. Airports Los Angeles International Airport, known locally as LAX, is located on the west side of the city. With flights to over 60 major cities, it is the world’s third-busiest airport when it comes to passenger service. Shipping Due in large part to trade with the countries of the Pacific Rim, the Los Angeles/Long Beach Port System is the country’s top-ranked shipping port in terms of both volume and value of goods handled. The Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) is a top shipping facility for air cargo. As the point of termination for several major rail lines, Los Angeles is also a busy rail freight center, and the city is also served by all major interstate trucking companies. 3
Getting Around
What most people refer to when they say “Los Angeles” is more a sprawling collection of suburbs than a single city laid out according to an orderly plan. Nevertheless, Los Angeles does have a downtown, an area largely
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Los Angeles
bounded by the Harbor Freeway, the Santa Monica Freeway, and Alameda street, with numbered streets running northwest to southeast, with several
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avenues running in the perpendicular direction. Located in this district are the Los Angeles City Hall, the Convention Center, the Los Angeles County Court,
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Los Angeles
City Fact Comparison Los Angeles (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
13,129,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1781
753 BC
723 BC
$172
$129
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$99
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$44
$56
$59
$62
$2
$14
$15
$16
$145
$173
$246
$207
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.) Total daily costs
$193
Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper
5
13
20
11
Los Angeles Times
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
1,067,540
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1881
1944
1976
1948
Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established 1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
the Civic Centre, and the Museum of Contemporary Art.
including a subway system that was launched in 1993.
Bus and Commuter Rail Service
Sightseeing
Due to the sprawling layout of Greater Los Angeles, the city is widely known for its extensive freeway system and dependence on automobiles, rather than for its use of public transportation. However, the California Metropolitan Transit Agency (called the MTA) does run local and express buses, including a shuttle service from downtown called the Downtown Area Short Hop (DASH). L.A.’s MetroRail, largely used by commuters from the more distant suburbs, operates three color-coded rail lines,
Several companies offer bus tours of Los Angeles that include attractions such as the city’s film studios, Sunset Strip, Hollywood, and homes of movie stars; a helicopter tour is also available. Special “theme” tours include a 3 A.M. insomniac’s tour that takes in the Los Angeles Times building and the produce markets and Grave Line Tours, which takes visitors to sites associated with the deaths (by foul play and otherwise) of famous Hollywood stars. There are also separate tours of individual attractions,
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Los Angeles including movie and television studios and the Los Angeles Times. 4
People
Los Angeles is the second most populous city in the United States, surpassed only by New York. In 1990, the population of Chicago was 3,486,000, with the following racial composition: 75.7 percent white, 14 percent black, 9.8 percent Asian/Pacific Islander, 0.5 percent American Indian. Hispanics (an ethnic rather than a racial designation) accounted for 39.9 percent of the population. The 1994 population estimate for Chicago was 3,449,000. The population of the Los Angeles Primary Metropolitan Statistical Area was estimated at 9,145,219 as of 1997. The region’s racial composition was listed by the U.S. Census Bureau in 1996 as 75.2 percent white; 12.9 percent Asian/Pacific Islander; and 11.2 percent black (1996). Hispanics accounted for 43 percent of the metropolitan area population. 5
Neighborhoods
Downtown Los Angeles—home to the city’s Chinatown, Koreatown, and Little Tokyo, as well as its barrios (Hispanic neighborhoods), and the predominantly black South-Central neighborhood—is known for its ethnically diverse population. Also located in the downtown area are the El Pueblo de Los Angeles Historic District and a modern commercial and civic center complete with modern high-rise buildings. Hollywood, famed as the capital of the movie industry, has declined from
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its peak glamour days, especially around the fabled Hollywood and Sunset boulevards, but it is still the site of such show business shrines as the Walk of Fame, the trendy Melrose Avenue shopping district, and the Mid-Wilshire neighborhood of residential and commercial buildings. The area known as the Westside, located between Hollywood and the coast, is a more upscale area and home to such glamorous neighborhoods as Beverly Hills, Bel Air, and Brentwood. It is also the site of the famous Rodeo Drive shopping area. One of the most attractive and popular parts of greater Los Angeles is the coastal area, which stretches from Malibu in the north to the Palos Verdes Peninsula and encompasses over 97 kilometers (60 miles) of beachfront property. Besides Malibu, well-known communities here include Santa Monica, known for its Bohemian atmosphere; Venice, whose famous Ocean Front Walk is the place where skaters and others come to see and be seen; Marina del Rey, known for its excellent small-craft harbor; and Redondo Beach. Also located near the coast is the Los Angeles International Airport. The remaining region is the San Fernando Valley (“the Valley”), home of the infamous “Valley Girl” image and slang popularized in the 1980s. Universal Studios is located here, in Universal City, and Burbank is nearby. 6
History
The area of present-day Los Angeles was first explored and settled by the
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Los Angeles
Los Angeles is the second-largest city in the United States. (Michelle & Tom Grimm; Los Angeles Convention & Visitors Bureau)
Spanish in the eighteenth century. The city, originally called El Pueblo de Nuestra Senora la Reina de los Angeles (“the pueblo of our lady the queen of angels”), was founded in 1781. Over the next century, Los Angeles was successively under Spanish, Mexican, and American rule. Spanish rule ended in 1821 when Mexico achieved independence, and the young town, then a provincial outpost, came under its jurisdiction. Growing trade with the United States, as well as such marine enterprises as seal hunting and whaling, made Los Angeles California’s largest town by the 1840s.
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In the wake of the Mexican-American War of 1846, Los Angeles, along with the rest of California, became U.S. territory, and California was admitted to the United States as the thirty-first state in 1850. The most significant milestone in the development of Los Angeles was the city’s selection as the rail terminus for southern California. Rail linkage with San Francisco, completed in 1876, was followed by a population boom, as thousands flocked to the region, drawn by its temperate climate, unspoiled landscape, and available property, as well as cheap transcontinental fares
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Los Angeles resulting from rail price wars. A realestate boom rapidly drove up the price of land, but it had collapsed by 1887, destroying the hopes of speculators. However, the city continued to thrive, its economy spurred by the discovery of oil in 1892 and the development of agriculture. Its population grew to 50,000 by 1890 and then doubled to 102,000 by the turn of the century. The film industry came to Los Angeles in the early twentieth century, with the opening of the first movie theater in 1902 and the establishment of Hollywood’s first film studio in 1911. The first feature-length movie was directed by Cecil B. DeMille in 1913; the now world-famous “Hollywood” sign was erected in 1923; and the Academy Awards were inaugurated in 1929. The city’s growing reputation as “Tinseltown” added yet another dream for newcomers to pursue by going west. The film industry continued to thrive during the 1930s, supplying relief from the woes of the Depression, which also brought a new wave of arrivals to the region, fleeing the dust bowls of the Midwest and seeking to rebuilt their lives. Major infrastructure projects assured a continued supply of water to desert-bound Los Angeles, in some cases triggering bitter and lasting disputes over the rights to water channeled to the region from further north. A new era—the era of the automobile—opened for Los Angeles with the completion in 1940 of the Arroyo Seco Parkway, which laid the groundwork for the sprawling mass of freeways, and the car culture, that were to become an
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indelible part of the city’s image and lifestyle. The growing dominance of the automobile and the spread of the defense-related manufacturing plants during World War II (1939–45) both helped trigger the suburban growth that was to change the physical landscape of L.A. in the postwar decades. Another development of the 1950s— the growth of television—at first was feared as a threat to the movie industry but proved an economic boon as the city became the headquarters of the popular new medium, as well as the growing recording industry, reinforcing its status as the entertainment capital of the world. By the 1960s the golden image of Los Angeles had began to unravel, as unchecked urban sprawl led to environmental and social problems. Smog and pollution from automobiles and industry were recognized as serious threats to the quality of life in the area, and urban violence erupted in the black Watts neighborhood in August 1965. As the decade neared its end, the assassination of senator and presidential candidate Robert F. Kennedy (1925–1968) at the Ambassador Hotel following the 1968 Democratic primary election linked Los Angeles with yet more violence. Strict air pollution guidelines were instituted in the 1970s, together with attempts to reduce pollution from autos by improving public transportation over the following decades, including the inauguration of a subway system in the early 1990s. In the 1970s and 1980s Southern California became a hub of the human potential and New Age
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Los Angeles movements, adding yet another facet— otherworldly eccentricity—to its multifaceted image. At the same time, the region’s economy thrived as the real estate, finance, and entertainment industries soared. The 1990s in Los Angeles were marked by economic recession and recovery, and a series of sensationalistic events highlighting racial divisions in both the city itself and in the nation as a whole. First came the 1991 videotaping of four white police officers beating black motorist Rodney King, the 1992 Simi Valley trial in which the policemen were acquitted, and the ensuing three days of rioting and looting that left 50 persons dead and caused an estimated $1 billion in property damage. The 1994 Brentwood murder of Nicole Brown Simpson and Ronald Goldman was followed by the 1996 trial of former football star and actor O. J. Simpson, who was tried for and acquitted of the murders. Physically, the city was shaken by the 1994 the Northridge earthquake, measuring 6.8 on the Richter scale, that has required a major rebuilding effort. 7
Government
The Los Angeles municipal government is headed by a mayor and a 15member council, both elected to fouryear terms. Los Angeles is also the seat of Los Angeles County, which is under the jurisdiction of a board of supervisors consisting of five members. A number of its districts, however, are selfgoverning.
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8
Public Safety
In 1995, violent crimes reported to police (per 100,000 population) totaled over 2,000 and included 25 murders, 840 robberies, and 1,123 aggravated assaults. Property crimes totaled 5,645 and included 1,192 burglaries, 3,120 cases of larceny/theft, and 1,333 motor vehicle thefts. 9
Economy
Los Angeles is the seat of the topranked manufacturing county in the nation, producing a diverse array of items including aircraft and aircraft equipment, games and toys, gas transmissions and distribution equipment, guided missiles, space vehicles and propulsion units, and women’s apparel. Service is the major employment sector, employing roughly one-third of the county’s nonagricultural wage and salary workers. In 1998 the top employers in the county were county government, the Los Angeles Unified School District, the U.S. government, UCLA, and the U.S. Postal Service. The economy of the city of Los Angeles is highly diversified, with strong sectors in services, wholesale and retail trade, manufacturing, government, financial service industries, transportation, utilities, and construction. The entertainment and tourism industries also contribute significantly to the economy. The trade volume of its busy port is the highest in the nation and one of the highest in the world.
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Los Angeles The Los Angeles economy took a downturn—together with the rest of California—in the early 1990s but rebounded later in the decade. 10
Environment
A booming population has brought nationwide recognition to Los Angeles and the surrounding area, but it has also brought increasing environmental problems, including water shortages and pollution and air pollution. The infamous L.A. smog was sighted by farmers as early as 1940. In 1990 the city was forced to impose water rationing on its residents for the first time, and it was expected to spend billions of dollars during the decade on pollution controls to comply with federal air quality standards. The many rare wildlife species found within 161 kilometers (100 miles) of the Los Angeles metropolitan area include the California condor, one of the world’s rarest birds, and the gray whale, whose annual southward migration to Baja, California, carries it to within 0.8 kilometer (0.5 mile) of L.A.’s Pacific coastline, drawing numerous observers, either in their own as part of organized whale watches. Southern California’s best-known physical feature is probably the San Andreas fault, only one of the geological faults in the state. 11
Shopping
The best-known shopping district in Los Angeles is glamorous Rodeo
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Drive in Beverly Hills. Now augmented by the addition of a cobble-stoned walkway called Two Rodeo, or Via Rodeo, the area boasts shops sporting exclusive names, including Chanel, Armani, Ungaro, Christian Dior, Cartier, and Tiffany. Beverly Hills is also home to upscale retailers Neiman-Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Barneys New York, all located nearby on Wilshire Boulevard. Other shopping venues include Melrose Avenue, the Westside Pavilion, Montana Avenue (in Santa Monica), and Abbot Kinney Boulevard (in Venice). Chinatown also offers a varied and colorful shopping experience that encompasses ethnic foods, clothing, and household items. A popular shopping destination in the district is the Chungking Mall. Popular malls in the greater Los Angeles area include the Citadel Outlet Collection, Century City, Beverly Center, and Topanga Plaza. 12
Education
The Los Angeles Unified School District, serving a population of more than four million, is overseen by a seven-member elected school board. In the fall of 1998, the district enrolled a total of 607,143 students in grades K12—the second-largest enrollment of any district in the country, second only to New York City. The Los Angeles system operated 420 elementary schools, 72 middle schools, and 49 senior high schools. The district’s adult community schools, children’s centers, and occupational and skills centers enrolled an additional 913,119. The district
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Los Angeles
Rodeo Drive is the most glamorous shopping district in Los Angeles. (Michelle & Tom Grimm; Los Angeles Convention & Visitors Bureau)
employed 67,169 persons, including teachers, support staff, and other certified personnel. It is the second-largest employer in Los Angeles County.
sities, including Loyola Marymount University, the California Institute of Technology (Cal Tech), Pepperdine University, and Claremont College.
The two largest institutions of higher education in Los Angeles are the University of California, Los Angeles (UCLA) and the University of Southern California (USC), respected as major research centers (and known locally as sports rivals). In addition to these two universities, the Los Angeles area is home to multiple campuses of both the University of California and the California State University systems, as well as a number of private colleges and univer-
13
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Health Care
The premier hospital in the Los Angeles area is Los Angeles County/ University of Southern California Medical Center, which includes General Hospital and Women’s and Children’s Hospital. In 1998 the complex had a total of 1,330 staffed beds; 45,979 patients were admitted, and 744,933 were seen on an outpatient basis. The centrally located Cedars-Sinai Medical
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Los Angeles Center also has an outstanding reputation.
azines published in Los Angeles is Bon Appetit.
In 1995 the Los Angeles-Long Beach metropolitan area had 114 community hospitals, with a total of 25,546 beds and 16,681 office-based physicians. The greater Los Angeles area, including Orange County, had 260 hospitals altogether in the mid-1990s, but this number was expected to decline with the growing trend toward hospital mergers. According to some reports, as many as one-third of the region’s hospitals would close in the coming years or become part of large multi-hospital networks.
All the major television networks have affiliated stations in Chicago, which has a total of seven commercial and public television stations, as well as some 30 AM and FM radio stations.
14
Media
Since 1989 Los Angeles has had only one daily newspaper, the Los Angeles Times (circulation 991,480 weekdays and 1,361,202 Sundays), which has a distinguished history and a reputation as one of the leading newspapers in the nation. A number of regions in the metropolitan area have their own dailies, including the Daily News (San Fernando Valley), the News Pilot (San Pedro), the Daily Breeze (Torrance), the Evening Outlook (Santa Monica), and the Press Telegram (Long Beach). Two free alternative weeklies—the LA Weekly and New Times—cover entertainment and other topics of interest to L.A. locals. Weeklies are also published for the business community and the area’s many ethnic communities. The area’s two monthly magazines are the older Los Angeles Magazine and its younger rival, Buzz. Among the nationally distributed mag-
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Sports
Major league teams in most professional sports play in the Los Angeles area, although football fans have been without a home team since the Los Angeles Rams and Raiders departed for other cities in the mid-1990s. In baseball, the National League’s Los Angeles Dodgers play at Dodger Stadium, and the American League’s Anaheim Angels play at Anaheim Stadium. (Southern Californians can also attend games of the San Diego Padres.) Los Angeles has two NBA teams, the championshipwinning Lakers, who play home games at the Staples Center, and the Clippers, who play at the Los Angeles Sports Arena. Professional hockey is represented by the NHL’s Los Angeles Kings, who play at the Staples Center, and the Disney-owned Mighty Ducks, who play at Arrowhead Pond. College-level sports are also popular, as fans follow the fortunes of the UCLA and USC teams, who field Division I NCAA teams in all major sports. Horse racing is held at Hollywood Park Racetrack and the Santa Anita Racetrack.
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Los Angeles
On New Year’s Day each year visitors travel to Pasadena, a Los Angeles suburb, to watch both the Tournament of Roses parade and football game, which is played in the Rose Bowl stadium. (Michelle & Tom Grimm; Los Angeles Convention & Visitors Bureau)
16
Parks and Recreation
Los Angeles’s warm weather and sunny climate encourage a wide range of athletic activities, especially water sports—including swimming, surfing, and boating—at its miles of municipal beaches along the Pacific coast. The city’s parks offer golf courses, tennis courts, swimming pools, ball fields, and other facilities. At more than 1,619 hectares (4,000 acres), Griffith Park is one of the nation’s (and the world’s) largest municipal parks. It is home to the
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famed Griffith Observatory and Planetarium, the 46-hectare (113-acre) Los Angeles Zoo, and the Ferndall Nature Museum, as well as a bird sanctuary, a transportation museum (Travel Town), and the Autry Museum of Western Heritage. For recreational purposes, the park also boasts an 85-kilometer (53-mile) bridle trail, picknicking and swimming facilities, a golf course, and bicycle rentals. Hancock Park, near Wilshire Boulevard, is famed for its La Brea Tar Pits, ponds containing subterranean tar in which prehistoric mammoths, mastodons, bears, and other mammals were
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Los Angeles entombed, and their skeletons preserved for posterity. Today, life-size fiberglass replicas of mammoths, placed in the pond, can be seen not only from the park but also from Wilshire Boulevard, forming a startling contrast to its stores and restaurants. Other Los Angeles-area parks include the 243-hectare (600-acre) Elysian Park, the 13-hectare (32-acre) Westlake Park, and the Lincoln, Exposition, Echo, and Arroyo Seco parks. In addition to its other parks, Los Angeles is home to the world-famous theme park, Disneyland, located in Anaheim. 17
Performing Arts
Although Los Angeles is best known as the world capital of television and motion-picture production, the traditional performing arts are also well represented. The Los Angeles Philharmonic Orchestra, under the direction of Finnish-born music director Esa-Pekka Salonen, performs at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion during its regular season and at the Hollywood Bowl in the summer. The L.A. Opera is known for its innovative interpretations of operatic classics, and the Los Angeles Master Chorale performs at the Music Center during the concert season. Popular venues for theatrical performances are the Ahmanson Theatre, the Henry Fonda Theatre, and the Center Theatre Group at the Mark Taper Forum. Los Angeles residents can attend a variety of performances in music, theater, and dance by touring artists at the
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Los Angeles’s favorable weather conditions promote outdoor recreational activities, especially swimming and boating. (Michelle & Tom Grimm; Los Angeles Convention & Visitors Bureau)
UCLA Center for the Performing Arts. In addition, New York’s Joffrey Ballet maintains an office and a regular performance schedule in the city. 18
Libraries and Museums
Founded in 1872, the Los Angeles Public Library System serves close to 3.7 million people, with an annual circulation of 10,964,844. Its book holdings total approximately 5.8 million volumes. The library moved into a new central building downtown in 1993 after its former home was destroyed by fire; the new building is the third-largest library in the country. The library
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Los Angeles Armand Hammer Museum of Art, attached to the offices of Occidental Petroleum and founded by the company’s CEO, has been praised for the quality of its visiting and contemporary exhibits.
Life-size replicas of prehistoric mammals may be seen at La Brea Tar Pits. (Michelle & Tom Grimm; Los Angeles Convention & Visitors Bureau)
system also operates 67 neighborhood branches. The areas in which it holds special collections include California in Fiction, Film Study, Fiction By and About Blacks, Japanese Prints, Orchestral Scores and Parts, Rare Books, and Automotive Repair Manuals. The leading art museum in the Los Angeles area is the new J. Paul Getty Museum, which opened in 1997 in a building designed by Richard Meier. The museum, which houses the art collection of the famous tycoon, is noted for its antiquities, paintings, illuminated manuscripts, and contemporary collections. The Museum of Contemporary Art is devoted to art since 1940; the
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Los Angeles is also home to a number of specialty museums. The West Coast branch of New York’s Museum of Television and Radio is located in Beverly Hills, where visitors can view episodes of classic programs from the early days of television. The Museum of Tolerance, located in the Simon Wiesenthal Center, is an educational museum dedicated to exposing the evils of prejudice and encouraging openmindedness toward all groups. Other museums in the region include the Hollywood Entertainment Museum, the Museum of Miniatures, the Petersen Automotive Museum, the California African-American Museum, the Autry Museum of Western Heritage (located in Griffith Park), the Japanese-American National Museum, and the Los Angeles Children’s Museum. 19
To u r i s m
The California climate and the glamour associated with the motionpicture and television industries, as well as Disneyland, make Los Angeles one of the nation’s top tourist destinations. In 1995 approximately more than three million foreign travelers visited the city, ranking it second nationally in this category.
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Los Angeles 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Martin Luther King Celebration & Parade Tournament of Roses Parade & Rose Bowl
FEBRUARY Chinese New Year’s Parade in Chinatown Golden Dragon Parade
MARCH Academy Awards City of Los Angeles Marathon Grammy Awards Los Angeles Bach Festival
MARCH-APRIL Crystal Cathedral Glory of Easter
SEPTEMBER Koreatown Multi-Cultural Festival Los Angeles City’s Birthday Celebration
SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER Alpine Village Oktoberfest Los Angeles County Fair
OCTOBER Los Angeles International Film Festival South Bay Greek Festival
NOVEMBER Hollywood Christmas Parade Intertribal Marketplace
DECEMBER Christmas Boat Parade Griffith Park Light Festival Las Posadas Candlelight Procession
APRIL LA Fiesta Broadway
APRIL-JUNE Renaissance Pleasure Faire
MAY Cinco de Mayo Celebrations Fiesta de las Artes
LATE MAY-EARLY JUNE
21
Famous Citizens
Well-known Los Angeles natives include: Choreographer and director Busby Berkeley (1895–1972).
Spring Boat Show
Child actor Jackie Coogan (1914–1984).
JUNE
Actor Jackie Cooper (b. 1921).
Concours on Rodeo Great American Irish Fair & Music Festival Los Angeles Gay & Lesbian Pride Celebration Mariachi USA Festival Playboy Jazz Festival
Figure skater Linda Fratianne (b. 1960). Academy Award-winning actress Jodie Foster (b. 1962).
JULY
Ballerina Cynthia Gregory (b. 1946).
Los Angeles Classic Jazz Festival Lotus Festival Malibu Art Festival
Actor Dustin Hoffman (b. 1937).
JULY-AUGUST
Sculptor Isamu Noguchi (1904–88).
California Plaza’s Moonlight Concerts
MID-JULY TO MID-SEPTEMBER Page Museum’s Fossil Excavation at La Brea Tar Pits
AUGUST Nisei Week Japanese Festival
LATE AUGUST-SEPTEMBER African Marketplace & Cultural Faire
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Actress Marilyn Monroe (1926–62). Conductor Leonard Slatkin (b. 1944). Baseball players Duke Snyder (b. 1926) and Darryl Strawberry (b. 1962). Famous residents include countless film stars and directors, of whom some of the earliest were:
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Los Angeles Cecil B. DeMille (1881–1959). Douglas Fairbanks, Sr. (1883–1939). Mary Pickford (1893–1979). 22
For Further Study
Websites CityView Los Angeles. [Online] Available http:// www.cityview.com/losangeles (accessed October 14, 1999). LA Directory. [Online] Available http:// www.ladir.com/ (accessed October 14, 1999). Los Angeles City Net. [Online] Available http:// www.city.net/countries/united_states/california/los_angeles (accessed October 14, 1999). LosAngeles.TheLinks.com. [Online] Available http://www.losangeles.thelinks.com/. (accessed October 14, 1999).
Government Offices Los Angeles City Hall 200 N. Spring St. Los Angeles, CA 90012 (213) 485-2121 Los Angeles Planning Dept. 221 N. Figueroa St., Rm. 1600 Los Angeles, CA 90012 (213) 580-1168 Mayor’s Office 200 N Main St., Rm. 800 Los Angeles, CA 90012 (213) 485-2489
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Los Angeles Convention and Visitors Bureau 633 W. 5th St., Suite 6000 Los Angeles, CA 90071 (213) 624-7300
Publications Los Angeles Business Journal 5700 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 170 Los Angeles, CA 90036 Los Angeles Magazine 11100 Santa Monica Blvd., 7th Fl. Los Angeles, CA 90025
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Los Angeles Times Times Mirror Square Los Angeles, CA 90053
Books Abelmann, Nancy, and John Lie. Blue Dreams: Korean Americans and the Los Angeles Riots. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1995. Anderson, Donald A. Los Angeles: Realm of Possibility: A Contemporary Portrait. Chatsworth, CA: Windsor Publications, 1991. Brook, Stephen. L.A. Days, L.A. Nights. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1993. Cannon, Lou. Official Negligence: How Rodney King and the Riots Changed Los Angeles and the LAPD. New York: New York Times Books, 1997. Cini, Zelda, Bob Crane, Peter Brown. Hollywood, Land & Legend. Westport, CN: Arlington House, 1980. Davis, Mike. Ecology of Fear: Los Angeles and the Imagination of Disaster. New York: Metropolitan Books, 1998. Kaplan, Sam Hall. L. A. Lost & Found: An Architectural History of Los Angeles. New York: Crown, 1987. Loh, Sandra Tsing. Depth Takes a Holiday: Essays from Lesser Los Angeles. New York: Riverhead Books, 1996. Martinez, Rubin. The Other Side: Notes from the new L.A., Mexico City, and Beyond. New York: Vintage Books, 1993. Miller, John. Los Angeles Stories: Great Writers on the City. San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 1991. Rieff, David. Los Angeles: Capital of the Third World. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1991. Sonenshein, Raphael. Politics in Black and White: Race and Power in Los Angeles. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1993. Thompson, Frank T. Los Angeles Uncovered. Plano, TX: Seaside Press, 1996. Thorpe, Edward. Chandlertown: The Los Angeles of Philip Marlowe. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 1983.
Videorecordings Los Angeles, Hollywood & Southern California. [videorecording] Finley-Holiday Film Corporation. Whittier, CA: Finley-Holiday Film Corp., 1993. 1 videocassette (40 min.)
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Madrid Madrid, Spain, Europe Founded: Castilians defeated the Moors and captured Madrid in 1083. Philip II made Madrid the capital of Spain in 1561. Location: Province of Madrid, near the geographic center of the Iberian Peninsula. It lies on top of a sand and clay plateau known as the Meseta (from the Spanish word mesa, or table). Time Zone: Spain is one hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Daylight Savings Time is observed late March to late October. Elevation: At 2,100 ft (635 m) above sea level, Madrid is one of the highest capitals in Europe. Latitude and Longitude: 40º26'N, 3º42'W. Madrid shares roughly the same latitude as New York City, New York, and Salt Lake City, Utah. Climate: Winters are cold, but mostly dry. Night temperatures often fall below 32 ° F, and snow occasionally falls on the city. Spring is warmer and pleasant although night temperatures remain low. Summer is often divided into two smaller seasons. Early summer is quite pleasant, but late summer in July and August is often unbearably hot. Autumn is a little wetter but more pleasant than summer. Temperature: January is typically the coldest month, and temperatures range from 35 to 47°F (2 to 9°C). July: 63–87°F (17–31°C); September 57–77°F (14–25°C). Average Annual Precipitation: 16.5 inches (419.1 mm) Government: Mayor and city council Weights and Measures: Metric Monetary Units: The peseta (about 125 pesetas per one US dollar). Notes come in denominations of 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, and 10,000 pesetas. Coins come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 25, 50, 100, 200, and 500 pesetas. Telephone Area Codes: Spain Country Code: 34; Madrid City Code: 91
1
Introduction
It is a balmy July night in Madrid, and the narrow colonial sidewalks of the Chueca neighborhood are crowded with fashionably dressed Madrileños. Many of them patiently wait in line to get a table at some of the better restaurants and tapas bars in the cosmopolitan neighborhood. In any other place, one might expect this pulsating scene during the early hours of the evening. But this is Madrid, and it is well past
midnight. Madrileños, as its citizens are called, are just getting started. Madrid has it all backwards, or so it seems. Between noon and 4:00 PM, the citizens of this sprawling city go home for a long lunch and a nap. Most shops close, and the city calms down a bit. These are the habits expected from smaller towns, sleepy provinces that have not been touched by modernization. Yet, the ways of a modern world, with longer working hours, and less lei-
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Madrid
Madrid Population Profile City Proper Population: 2,900,000 Area: 606 sq km (234 sq mi) Nicknames: Los Madriles (many Madrids) for its distinct neighborhoods. The people are called "Madrileños.'' Traditionally, Madrileños have also been called gatos, for cats. The nickname may have been coined during the Middle Ages to describe troops who scaled castle walls with the dexterity of cats.
Metropolitan Area Population: 4,072,000 Description: Province of Madrid Area: 1,942 sq km (750 sq mi) World population rank1: 58 Percentage of national population2: 10.2% Average yearly growth rate: 0% Ethnic composition: ——— 1. The Madrid metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of Spain’s total population living in the Madrid metropolitan area.
sure time, have encroached on Madrid. Until recently, the entire city shut down during the afternoon. Residents returned to work at 4:00 PM, and stayed at their jobs until about 8:00 PM. After work, many of them retired to restaurants, coffee shops, and tapas bars for long conversations with friends and family. Today more and more stores and businesses stay open all day, and fewer people have time for long lunches, even less a quick nap. The city's night life, which made it famous around the world, has suffered a bit from Spain's attempts to catch up economically with its European neighbors.
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Yet, Madrileños don't give up easily. On any given night, especially on weekends, the streets continue to fill with late night revelers. Madrileños, much like the citizens of many other capital cities, have been accused of snobbery. It is perhaps the weight of history that sustains this perceived aloofness. Madrid was once at the center of an empire that stretched over large parts of the globe. In the heart of Spain, it remained the center of cultural and political life for many centuries. The city was actually founded by the Moors, who traveled across the Mediterranean from North Africa to conquer the Iberian Peninsula. During the Christian Reconquest, Madrid fell to a Castilian king, but it would not be named the capital city of Spain until 1561. Madrid suffered through all the ups and downs of an empire, including the occupation of the city by the French in the early 1800s. By the 1930s, Madrid was under heavy artillery fire, its citizens trying to defend the Republic after getting rid of the monarchy. Madrid eventually fell to the pro-monarchy forces (1939). From here, one of the most notorious dictators of the twentieth century, Francisco Franco, would rule the nation with a tight fist for more than three decades. Franco died in 1975, and the nation entered a new era. And so did conservative Madrid, which woke from a long slumber. Culturally repressed by a conservative leader, Spain flourished under democracy. From its cinema to
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Madrid
literature, music, and art, Spaniards made headlines throughout the world. Madrileños knew they would not be left behind. 2
Getting There
Highways Six major highways lead to all corners of the country.
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Bus and Railroad Service There are two main train stations in the city: Chamartín and Atocha. Trains from the north arrive at Chamartín, while trains from the south, east, and west arrive at Atocha. The station is also the terminus for the high-speed AVE trains, which travel south to Cordova and Sevilla. The railways in Spain are operated by the state-owned RENFE.
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Madrid Buses depart for destinations throughout Spain from two main stations in the Madrid area. Airports All domestic and international flights arrive at the Barajas International Airport. 3
Getting Around
Bus and Commuter Rail Service Madrid’s Metro system is made up of ten lines. It is cheap and efficient but not the best way to get around in the summer months when the tunnels become unbearably hot. The metro operates from 6 AM to 1:30 AM. Madrid has an extensive bus system with more than 150 lines. Buses stop operating at 1 AM. Taxis and buses known as buhos (owls) operate during the late night hours. There are 20 buho bus lines. The Cercanías trains (greater Madrid light railway) serve the outskirts of Madrid and towns nearby. In Madrid the railway stations are underground, but they go above ground on the outskirts of the city. The modern trains are comfortable. They are equipped with heat and air conditioning. Prices vary on distance traveled. Sightseeing Tourists and Madrileños alike use the Cercanias trains to visit the picturesque towns of Toledo, Segovia, Avila, El Escorial, and Aranjuez. World-class museums, bullfights, and flamenco dancing are also popular attractions.
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4
People
Madrid was one of the fastest growing cities in Spain after World War II (1939–45), but growth leveled off by the late twentieth century. Population figures, which showed a small decline in the early 1990s, are expected to remain stable for the next 20 years. The city's population density is 13,419 per square mile). About 23 percent of residents are under the age of 20, while 11.3 percent are over the age of 60. Madrid is mostly inhabited by Castilians, people who have lived in Spain's central meseta for many centuries. Castilians are overwhelmingly Catholic and generally conservative. Spaniards from other parts of the country also live in Madrid, including Andalucians, Gallegos, Catalonians, and Valencians. There are small numbers of migrants from Northern Africa and political refugees from Latin America and the Middle East. The city is overwhelmingly Catholic, and many of the city’s holidays and celebrations are religious. Castilian (castellano) is the official language of Spain. In other countries, castilian is known as Spanish. 5
Neighborhoods
Madrid is often called Los Madriles because of its distinctive neighborhoods. La Puerta del Sol (Door of the Sun) is the heart of the city, a large crescent-shaped plaza that is the starting point for all roads in Spain. Eight roads converge there in a massive junction
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Madrid
City Fact Comparison Madrid (Spain)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
4,072,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1083
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$119
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$55
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$14
$14
$15
$16
$188
$173
$246
$207
11
13
20
11
Marca
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
474,405
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
n.a.
1944
1976
1948
Total daily costs Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established 1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
surrounded by shops, restaurants, and apartment buildings. Some of Madrid's most important streets begin there, meandering their way through colonial neighborhoods before ending in the far reaches of suburbia. Some of Madrid's most fascinating neighborhoods are clustered near La Puerta del Sol. Lavapiés is one of the oldest, and poorest, neighborhoods. It is often said that Lavapiés is the most representative neighborhood of the city, the most “Madrileño.” Residents like to bring chairs out on the sidewalk and sit for hours into the night, sharing stories with neighbors. The neighborhood has many restaurants, small shops, and
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markets, and has a lively art scene. Atocha lies next to Lavapiés. It is home to the Reina Sofía museum (Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía), and the bustling Atocha train station. Many art galleries are located here. Closer to the heart of the city is cosmopolitan Chueca, which remains one of the most important meeting places for Madrileños who enjoy nightlife. Chueca is a hive of activity, especially during weekend nights. Large numbers of people take over sidewalks and streets, and restaurants are full at midnight. Residents party well into the dawn hours. Nearby is the more sedate Huertas neighborhood, which also
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Madrid
Madrid skyline. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
attracts its share of night owls. Huertas has many small restaurants and pubs, old mansions, hotels, and crowded streets. Paseo del Prado, home to the Prado Museum, is an upper-class neighborhood defined by the large mansions along the streets. Salamanca, north of the Parque Retiro, is a wealthy and conservative enclave. Many of the city's expensive boutiques are here. Even with 1.2 million housing units and low occupancy rates, Madrid suffers from inadequate housing. Most Madrileños live in apartments because they can't afford to buy homes. Espe-
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cially in the old neighborhoods, apartments are small and lack basic necessities like heat. In the summer, cramped quarters become hot. In some of the poorer neighborhoods, people are forced to share communal baths. 6
History
People have lived in Spain's central meseta for thousands of years. In the late ninth century, with the arrival of the Moors from Northern Africa, an Arab town began to take shape in what is now modern Madrid. The Moors built a castle (alcazar) on a hill overlooking the Manzanares River to protect their
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Madrid newly acquired territories. Residents followed the military and settled in the area. The Moors developed an intricate irrigation system, and agriculture bloomed. During the early stages of the Christian “Reconquest” of the Iberian Peninsula, Madrid was attacked by King Ramiro II of León in 932. The Moors restored the town but remained under siege. In a final assault in 1083, Alfonso VI of Castile and León captured Madrid. The town was now under Castilian and Christian control. Many Moors continued to live there until the final purge of Muslims and Jews from Spain in 1492. The town's Arab-Muslim character slowly faded over time. Madrid, which had been of marginal importance under the Moors, became home to many Castilian kings and grew in importance. By 1309, the Cortes (parliament) was operating within the city. Madrid was already a large town when Philip II (1527–1598) made it the capital of Spain in 1561. Now at the center of Spanish power, Madrid began to grow rapidly. By the 1650s, more than 100,000 people lived in Madrid. Architecture flourished under the Habsburg monarchs, who directed the construction of many important structures that remain to this day. The Plaza Mayor, a huge square surrounded by five-story houses, was built between 1617 and 1619. It became the center of life for early Madrileños. Bullfights were held on the plaza, as well as trials and executions of the Inquisition (a general tribunal established in the thirteenth century for the discovery and suppres-
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An artist displays his work in the historical Plaza Mayor. The square, built between 1617 and 1619, was the site of bullfights, trials, and executions. (Ignacio Lobos; EPD Photos)
sion of heresy and the punishment of heretics). The city continued to grow and prosper under the Bourbon Kings, especially King Charles III (1759–1788). Charles was not too fond of the city. He considered it dangerous and dirty and came close to moving the capital to Sevilla or Valencia. Yet despite his reservations, Charles stayed and passed laws to force citizens to clean up, inside and outside their homes. Acting much like a city planner, he engineered Madrid's continued growth and development. His contributions to Madrid would earn him the title of mayor-king. Madrid's tranquility was shattered during the Napoleonic Wars when French troops occupied the city, and Napoleon Bonaparte's brother Joseph
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Madrid (1822–1891) was installed on the throne. On May 2, 1808, the War of Independence began as Spaniards rose against the unpopular Joseph and fought French troops in bloody skirmishes. The date is remembered as a national holiday, but France continued to rule Spain until the war ended in 1814 with the victory of the Spanish army and guerillas, aided by British troops. Ferdinand VII (1788–1833), who had been imprisoned by Napoleon, returned to Madrid in 1814 and began to redevelop the city. By the 1850s, major projects ensured the city's continued growth. More than 31 kilometers (50 miles) of new canals brought fresh water into the city. In 1851, the first train departed from Atocha station on its way to Aranjuez. In 1861, the Castro Plan, more commonly known as the Ensanche (the widening), was formally adopted to guide the city's growth. The modern plan established areas for hospitals, cemeteries, hospices, and even jails. It assigned certain areas as working-class neighborhoods and protected the richer enclaves from undesirable urban uses. Yet despite the plan, Madrid was unable to prevent poor areas from developing outside planned zones. During this time, there were no major industries in Madrid, and workers spent most of their meager earnings on food. The bulk of the population lived in substandard housing, many without water and sewage facilities. By the beginning of the twentieth century, nearly 600,000 people called Madrid home. Beautiful palaces, gar-
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dens, museums, and imposing government buildings dotted the city. In 1919 the city inaugurated the underground metro's first line. At the time, the service offered first and second-class tickets, a symbol of class differences in prosperous Madrid. By 1930, nearly one million people had moved into the city. The 1930s were difficult years for Madrid and Spain. The nation was deeply divided by political ideology. Many Spaniards didn't want a monarchy and sought a more democratic form of government. Fascism in Europe was on the rise, and the Soviet Union sought to influence other nations with its Communist ideology. In 1931, Spain became a Republic; soon after that, the nation was divided by civil war. Fascists, the military, the Catholic Church and its conservative devotees championed the return of the monarchy. Collectively, these groups came to be known as Nationalists. A coalition of leftist parties that had narrowly won the 1936 elections and politically moderate Spaniards supported the continuation of the Republic. In 1936, civil war broke out. Francisco Franco, who had become a general at age 33, led the Nationalist forces. The Republicans could not muster a united front. Epic battles were waged in Madrid during the civil war. The Republican government moved to Valencia, fearing that Madrid would crumble quickly to the Nationalist forces. But Madrid held up, despite heavy damage from constant aerial and artillery bombardments. With help from Nazi leader Adolph Hitler (1889–1945) and the Ital-
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Madrid ian fascist Benito Mussolini (1883– 1945), Franco's troops defeated the Republican forces in a final battle in Madrid on March 28, 1939. Franco declared Spain a monarchy in 1947, but he remained the country's dictatorial leader until his death in 1975. Under Franco, Madrid's position as the seat of power was further solidified. Franco quickly set to rebuilding Madrid while he ignored other regions of the country. With the region established as a growing industrial center, the city continued to grow rapidly, swallowing many of its own suburbs. By 1951, Madrid covered 205 square kilometers (79 square miles). The Urban Plan of 1963 directed growth to other municipalities in the metropolitan area, turning some of them into bedroom communities. During the 1960s, the automobile became a major mode of transportation, choking the streets and the air. Franco's death in 1975 brought profound changes to Spain and Madrid. With King Juan Carlos (1938–) leading the way, Spain embarked on a democratization process that affected every institution in the country. Free from the conservative constraints of a dictatorship, Madrid became a more cosmopolitan city during the 1980s and 1990s. Its elected leaders began to pay more attention to the environment and passed laws to protect the city's architectural treasures, air, and water.
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7
Government
The government is made up of a mayor and 52-member city council (known as the Pleno or plenary). City Hall is located in the Plaza de la Villa in the colonial section of Madrid. The mayor and city council members represent three parties: Partido Popular (Popular Party), Partido Socialista Obrero Español (Spanish Socialist Workers Party), and "Izquierda Unida" (United Left). The conservative Popular Party won a majority for the 1999–2003 term and controls the Governing Committee. 8
Public Safety
Madrid is mostly a safe city although it shares the same social problems as other cities of its size. Madrileños have no problems staying out at all hours of the night, most without facing any problems. Some areas of the city, however, are notorious for prostitution and drug deals. Purse snatchers and pickpockets prey on tourists in crowded areas. 9
Economy
Madrid is Spain's second largest industrial center after Barcelona. It manufactures aircraft, electrical equipment, agricultural machinery, and leather goods. The city is the center of national government, finance, and insurance, and the nation's transportation hub. It is also one of the most important publishing centers of Spanish language materials in the world. Tourism is an important element of the
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Madrid
National Palace of Madrid. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
economy. Wheat, vines, and olives are some of the agricultural products grown in the province of Madrid. 10
Environment
Reducing pollution and noise are two of the most important tasks identified by the government. The city has an extensive network of mobile laboratories and technicians who constantly monitor the environment. Two leading monitoring agencies include the Center for Acoustic Studies and the Ecological Patrol. The city has a formal plan to clear the air, protect open spaces, and
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restore historic buildings damaged by carbon particles. According to government figures, sulfur dioxide emissions were reduced by 3,174 metric tons (3,500 tons) and suspended particles by 727 metric tons (800 tons) annually between 1993 and 1999. The city uses seven treatment facilities to purify more than 16,000 liters (60,600 gallons) per second of wastewater. More than 907 metric tons (1,000 tons) of dregs per day are treated for agriculture and other uses. Gas (methane and carbon dioxide) obtained from the dregs is used to produce electricity to operate the wastewater treatment facilities.
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Madrid 11
Shopping
Madrid’s shopping is more sedate and traditional than other European cities. Small boutiques and specialized stores command a major presence in the city. Small food stores, where expensive hams and olive oils from the region are featured, are found throughout the city. El Corte Inglés is just about the only department store similar to those found in the United States. 12
Education
Madrid is one of the most important centers of education in the country and home to some of its most prestigious universities. Among them are the Universidad Complutense de Madrid, Universidad Autónoma de Madrid, Universidad Politécnica de Madrid, Universidad Nacional de Educación a Distancia (Open University). 13
Health Care
While Madrid has 56 hospitals and approximately five physicians per 1,000 residents, health care lags behind other major European cities. Many hospitals lack adequate staff and equipment. Madrileños suffer from an abnormally high rate of respiratory problems caused by pollution. 14
Media
Madrid is a major publishing center in the Spanish-speaking world. More than 30 publishers are located in the city, which is served by several daily and weekly newspapers, as well as dozens of magazines. El País, with a Sunday
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circulation of more than 1.2 million readers, is considered one of the world's best newspapers. It is published daily in some Latin American countries, and its weekly international edition is available in many countries of the world. 15
Sports
Real Madrid’s soccer (futból) club is considered one the world's most accomplished teams of the twentieth century. Its games against its nemesis, Barcelona, often sell out the 125,000-seat Santiago Bernabéu stadium in the northern end of the city. Madrileños also enjoy bullfighting, and many other sports, including basketball, cycling (although not so much in the crowded city), horseback riding, tennis, and golf. 16
Parks and Recreation
With water fountains, lagoons, playing fields, and plenty of seating areas, the sprawling 350-acre Retiro is one of the city’s favorite parks. The city has more than 40 parks, gardens, and many small plazas. Madrileños enjoy taking long walks and meeting friends at cafes or pubs. An important ingredient of city life is the Sunday afternoon stroll (paseo) in parks or neighborhood streets. 17
Performing Arts
From flamenco dancing to bullfighting (considered an art form by aficionados), Madrid has much to offer. Bullfights in Madrid are held at Las Ventas bullring, considered the mecca
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Madrid of bullfighting. Fans of flamenco often go to the small clubs of Lavapiés, where performances often don’t get under way until well past midnight. 18
Libraries and Museums
Madrid is home to the prestigious National Library (Biblioteca Nacional) and the Library of the Royal Palace, which has a recognized historic collection. Madrid has a long literary tradition. Each year, thousands of people attend the Madrid Feria del Libro (book fair), one of many events that continue to thrive in the city’s lively literary scene. The city is also well known for its used bookshops. Some of the world’s most important museums are in Madrid. Foremost among these is the Prado Museum, which opened in 1819. The museum's thousands of paintings were collected by the Spanish monarchy and the Catholic Church over several centuries. About 1,500 paintings can be shown at a time. Some of Spain’s most renowned painters are represented at the Prado, including Velázquez, Goya, El Greco, Zurbarán, Ribera, and Murillo, and many other Europeans, like Rembrandt, Rubens, Botticelli, Rafael, and Tintoretto.
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Picasso’s Guernica, which had been housed in New York City, is now at the Reina Sofía museum, home of Spain’s modern art. Works by Miró, Oteiza, and Julio González are part of the permanent collection.
Spain is one of the most visited countries in Europe, both for its attractions and low prices. Madrid, the hub of national transportation, is a starting point for many visitors. It is a lively city, full of cafes, pubs, clubs, and res-
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A teenage boy performs stunts on his skateboard in one of Madrid’s many plazas. (Ignacio Lobos; EPD Photos)
To u r i s m
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Madrid taurants. Madrileños often party through the night and sometimes right past breakfast. World-class museums, cultural activities, festivals, and spectator sports can easily keep tourists busy for days. Many important towns are within easy reach, including Segovia, Chinchón, Avila, Aranjuez, and Alcalá de Henares, the birth place of Miguel Cervantes, author of Don Quixote. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY
New Year’s Day Epiphany
MARCH Feast of St. Joseph
APRIL Good Friday
MAY
al drama with hundreds of plays to his name. Pedro Calderón de la Barca y Henao (1600–1681), Spanish dramatist and poet, the last prominent writer of the golden age of Spanish literature. Jose Echegaray y Eizaguirre (1832– 1916), Spanish playwright, statesman, and co-winner of the Nobel Prize in literature in 1904. José Ortega y Gasset (1883–1955), writer and philosopher known for his humanistic criticism of modern civilization, whose articles, lectures, and essays on philosophy and political discourse led to the fall of the Spanish monarchy in 1931.
Labor Day Feast of the Community of Madrid Day of St. Isidro, the Patron Saint of Madrid
Plácido Domingo (b. 1941), great tenor.
AUGUST
Julio Iglesias (b.1943), internationally renowned singer.
Assumption
OCTOBER National Day
NOVEMBER All Saints’ Day Almudena
DECEMBER Constitution Day Feast of the Immaculate Conception
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Famous Citizens
Lope de Vega (1562–1635), playwright and poet of the Golden Age of Spanish literature (sixteenth and seventeenth centuries), considered the founder of the Spanish nation-
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Carmen Maura (b. 1946), 1990 Felix Award (Spain’s equivalent of the Oscar) winner for best actress and owner of a small art gallery in Madrid. Because of its historic preeminence in national culture, politics and society, Madrid has always attracted some of Spain's most brilliant people. Most of Spain's authors and painters have studied or lived in Madrid for part or most of their lives. The city has also attracted literary figures from other nations, including:
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Madrid American author Ernest Hemingway (1899–1961), who lived and worked in Madrid for a short time. Spanish poet and writer Federico García Lorca (1898–1936), who studied in Madrid and spent most of his time in the city between 1919 and 1934, and Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra (1547–1616), author of the epic Don Quixote, who is considered the greatest Spanish author. 22
For Further Study
Websites Madrid’s Underground Metro. [Online] Available http://www.metromadrid.es (accessed January 29, 2000). National Library. [Online] Available http:// www.bns.es (accessed January 29, 2000). National System of Spanish Railways. [Online] Available http://www.renfe.es (accessed January 29, 2000). Postal Service. [Online] Available http:// www.correos.es (accessed January 29, 2000). Prado Museum. [Online] Available http:// www.museoprado.mcu.es (accessed January 29, 2000). The Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum. [Online] Available http://www.offcampus.es/ museo.thyssen-bornemisza (accessed January 29, 2000).
Government Offices Spanish Embassy 2700 15th St. NW. Washington D.C. 20009 Community of Madrid. [Online] Available http:/
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www.comadrid.es 2000).
(accessed
January
29,
Municipality of Madrid. [Online] Available http://www.munimadrid.es (accessed January 29, 2000). National Statistical Office. [Online] Available http://www.ine.es (accessed January 29, 2000).
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Instituto de turismo de España José Lázaro Galdeano 6 28017, Madrid, España
Publications El Pais. [Online] Available http://www.elpais.es (accessed January 29, 2000). Madrid Daily. [Online] Available http:// www.labanguardia.es (accessed January 29, 2000). The Broadsheet. [Online] Available http:// thebroadsheet.com (accessed January 29, 2000). El Mundo. [Online] Available http:// www.elmundo.es (accessed January 29, 2000).
Books Besas, Peter. Behind the Spanish lens: Spanish cinema under fascism and democracy. Denver, Colorado: Arden Press, 1985. Carr, Raymond. Modern Spain, 1875–1980. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1980. Cross, Esther and Wilbur Cross. Spain. Enchantment of the World Series. Chicago: Children's Press, 1994. Kent, Deborah. Madrid. Chicago: Children's Press, 1999. Pérez-Díaz, V. M. The Return of Civil Society: The emergence of Democratic Spain. Harvard University Press, 1993.
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Glossary ABOLITIONIST: Person or organization that opposes slavery. When slavery was legal, abolitionists fought to have laws created to make keeping slaves illegal. ADMINISTRATION: Government officials and the policies by which they govern. AIR POLLUTION: Harmful chemicals discharged into the air, making it unclean and sometimes unsafe. ALLIES: Groups or persons who are united in a common purpose. Typically used to describe nations that have joined together to fight a common enemy in war. In World War I, the term Allies described the nations that fought against Germany and its allies. In World War II, Allies described the United Kingdom, United States, the USSR and their allies, who fought against the Axis Powers of Germany, Italy, and Japan. AMALGAM: A mixture of different things. ANCHORAGE: Settling or staying in place by means of holding on to something. ANNEXATION: The act of adding on a smaller thing to a larger thing. ANNUAL MEAN TEMPERATURE: The temperature that falls at the middle of the range of high and low temperatures for the entire year. ANTI-SEMITISM: Fear or hatred of Jews. APARTHEID: The past governmental policy in the Republic of South Africa of separating the races in society. ARCHAEOLOGICAL REMAINS: Relics and artifacts left by past cultures. BOROUGH: District or large section of a city, especially New York, New York. BUDDHISM: A religious system common in India and eastern Asia. Founded by and based upon the teachings of Siddhartha Gautama, Buddhism asserts that suffering is an inescapable part of life. Deliverance can only be achieved through the practice of charity, temperance, justice, honesty, and truth. CABARET: A restaurant or nightclub with short musical performances with singing and dancing as entertainment. CADENCE: Any rhythmic flow of sound or measured movement to a rhythm or beat. CANTON: A territory or small division or state within a country. COMMUNISM: A form of government whose system requires common ownership of property for the use of all citizens. All profits are to be equally dis-
tributed and prices on goods and services are usually set by the state. Also, communism refers directly to the official doctrine of the former U.S.S.R. COSMOPOLITAN: Containing elements of all or many parts of the world. COUT D’ÉTAT OR COUP: A sudden, violent overthrow of a government or its leader. CULTURE: The ideas and typical habits of a group of people. DAILY CIRCULATION: Number of newspapers or other publications that are distributed each day. DIALECT: One of a number of regional or related modes of speech regarded as descending from a common origin. DIVERSITY: Variety; a mixture of different or dissimilar elements, items, or people. ENDEMIC: Anything that is peculiar to and characteristic of a locality or region. ENTREPRENEUR: Someone who starts and operates a small business. ETHNIC: Referring to a group of people with the same cultural heritage. FEDERAL: Pertaining to a union of states whose governments are subordinate to a central government. FEZ: A cone-shaped felt hat with no brim and a flat top, from which a long tassel hangs; the national headdress for men in Turkey. FUNICULAR: Hanging from or worked by pulling up and lowering of ropes or cables. GLOBAL ECONOMY: Relating to the economic situation (management of wealth and resources) of the whole world as a single community. GOLD RUSH: Describes people traveling in a hurry to a place where gold was discovered. GREENWICH MEAN TIME (GMT): Mean solar time of the meridian at Greenwich, England, used as the basis for standard time throughout most of the world. The world is divided into 24 time zones, and all are related to the prime, or Greenwich mean, zone. GROSS DOMESTIC PRODUCT (GDP): A measure of the market value of all goods and services produced within the boundaries of a nation, regardless of asset ownership. Unlike gross national product, GDP excludes receipts from that nation’s business operations in foreign countries. GROSS NATIONAL PRODUCT (GNP): A measure of the market value of goods and services produced by the labor and property of a nation. Includes receipts from that nation’s business operation in foreign countries
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GLOSSARY HERESY: An opinion believed to contradict a basic
NATIONALIST: Person or government policy that
law of a religion. INDIGENOUS: People, plants, and animals that lived in a place from ancient times. Also called native people, plants, and animals. INHABITED: Lived in. INQUISITION: A general tribunal, or court, established in the thirteenth century for the discovery and suppression of heresy and the punishment of those who were guilty of heresy (called heretics). ISLAM: The religious system of Mohammed, practiced by Muslims and based on a belief in Allah as the supreme being and Muhammad as his prophet. The spelling variations, Moslim and Mohammed, are also used. Islam also refers to those nations in which it is the primary religion. LABYRINTHINE: Curving in an intricate or confusing pattern; curvy, like a snake. MAGNATE: Important person, or person with special influence. MELANESIAN: The native or original inhabitants of islands in the Pacific Ocean south of the equator, including the Fiji Islands. METRO: Short form of metropolitan, usually used with a city name. For example, metro Detroit describes the city of Detroit and its surrounding area. METROPOLIS: Large city or center of population. METROPOLITAN: Term used to describe a city and its area of influence. For example, “metropolitan Detroit” refers to the city of Detroit and its surrounding area.
puts the needs and interests of the country first over the needs and interests of the other countries or international groups. PER CAPITA: Literally, per person; for each person counted. PHILANTHROPIST: Person who gives large sums of his or her own money to benefit community organizations or institutions. POLYNESIAN: The native or original inhabitants of islands in the Pacific Ocean, including Hawaii, Samoa, Tonga, Tahiti, and New Zealand. PRE-COLUMBIAN: Refers to the time in the history of North and South America before the arrival of Europeans (before 1492). Named for the first European to reach the Western hemisphere, Christopher Columbus. PROGRESSIVE: Person or government that is open to new ideas and willing to move forward or change habits or practices. PROTESTANT: A member or an adherent of one of those Christian bodies which descended from the Reformation of the sixteenth century. Originally applied to those who opposed or protested the Roman Catholic Church. ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH: The designation of the church of which the pope or Bishop of Rome is the head, and that holds him as the successor of St. Peter and heir of his spiritual authority, privileges, and gifts. RURAL: Describes landscape of the countryside, with large areas of open space and few roads and buildings covering the land. SOUTHEAST ASIA: The region in Asia that consists of Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, the Philippines, Thailand, and Vietnam. SUBURB: Community on the edge of a large city where people live. People who live in a suburb usually travel to the city to work. SULTAN: A king of a Muslim (Islamic) state. TREATY: A negotiated agreement between two governments. URBAN: City landscape, with streets and buildings covering most of the area. VISIONARY: Person who can imagine positive changes and can explain the possible results to others. XENOPHOBIA: Fear or intense dislike of people from other places. ZENITH: The high point.
METROPOLITAN STATISTICAL AREA (MSA): Official term used by government agencies to define the city and its surrounding communities. The MSA describes the area included when gathering and reporting statistics. MILITARY COUP: A sudden, violent overthrow of a government by military forces. MILLENNIUM: 1,000 years. Also used to refer to the one-thousandth anniversary of an event. MISSIONARIES: People who travel to, and often live in, another area for the purpose of teaching the inhabitants there their religious beliefs. MOBILITY: The freedom and ability to move from one area or region to another. MOSQUE: An Islam place of worship and the organization with which it is connected. MUSLIM: Name used to describe people who observe the religious rules of Islam.
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Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of
World Cities
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of
World Cities VOLUME
3
Manilla, Philippines to Paris France
Edited by Jill Copolla and Susan Bevan Gall
J U N I O R WO R L D M A R K E N C Y C L O P E D I A O F W O R L D C I T I E S
U•X•L Staff Allison McNeill, U•X•L Senior Editor Carol DeKane Nagel, U•X•L Managing Editor Thomas L. Romig, U•X•L Publisher Dorothy Maki, Manufacturing Manager Evi Seoud, Assistant Production Manager Rita Wimberley, Senior Buyer Pamela A.E. Galbreath, Art Director This publication is a creative work copyrighted by U•X•L and fully protected by all applicable copyright laws, as well as by misappropriation, trade secret, unfair competition, and other applicable laws. The authors and editors of this work have added value to the underlying factual material herein through one or more of the following: unique and original selection, coordination, expression, arrangement, and classification of the information. All rights to this publication will be vigorously defended. Copyright © 2000 U•X•L An imprint of the Gale Group All rights reserved including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form.
Printed in United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Cover photos (top to bottom): Paris, France: Louvre (EPD/Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp) Monrovia, Liberia: Redemption Day Celebration (EPD/Homer Sykes; Woodfin Camp) Tokyo, Japan: Kids with skateboards (EPD/Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp) Lima, Peru: Market (EPD/Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp) Washington, DC: Lincoln Memorial (EPD/Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp)
Susan Bevan Gall and Jill Marie Coppola, Editors Timothy L. Gall, Executive Editor Mary Francis Sugar, Eleftherios E. Netos, Jennifer Wallace, James C. Woodring, Associate Editors Bridgette M. Nadzam, Graphics and Page Layout Gregory M. Hurst, Editorial Assistant Magellan Geographix, Cartographers
Contributors Olufemi A. Akinola, Ph.D. W.E.B. DuBois Institute, Harvard University Cynthia Andrews. Researcher/Writer, Suttons Bay, Michigan Mike Cikraji. Researcher/Writer, Bay Village, Ohio Patricia Hale. Researcher/Writer, West Hartford, Connecticut Bruce Heilman. University of Dar es Salaam, Tanzania Jim Henry. Researcher/Writer, Chicago, Illinois William Hodgson. Researcher/Writer, Vancouver, British Columbia Dave Hribar. Researcher/Writer, Avon Lake, Ohio Ignacio Lobos. Journalist, Honolulu, Hawaii Deryck O. Lodrick, Ph.D. Visiting Scholar, Center for South Asian Studies, University of California, Berkeley Lupa Ramadhani. University of Dar es Salaam, Tanzania Gail Rosewater. Researcher/Writer, Cleveland, Ohio Carmen Urdaneta, M.A. Researcher/Writer, Boston, Massachusetts Jeffrey Vance. Researcher/Writer, Brighton, Massachusetts Rosalie Wieder. Researcher/Writer, Cleveland, Ohio Steven Wolinetz, Ph.D. Memorial University, St. John’s Newfoundland
CONTENTS C I T Y F I N D E R TA B L E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . viii R E A D E R ’S G U I D E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix MANILA, PHILIPPINES ............................................................. 1 M E X I C O C I T Y, M E X I C O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 M I A M I , F L O R I D A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 M I N N E A P O L I S , M I N N E S O T A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 M O N R O V I A , L I B E R I A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 M O N T R É A L , Q U É B E C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 M U M B A I ( B O M B A Y ) , I N D I A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 N A I R O B I , K E N Y A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 N A S H V I L L E , TE N N E S S E E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 N E W O R L E A N S , L O U I S I A N A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 N E W YO R K , N E W YO R K . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 P A R I S , F R A N C E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 G L O S S A R Y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
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C I T Y F I N D E R TA B L E Volume number appears in brackets []
Toronto, Ontario .......................[4]151 Vancouver, British Columbia......[4]169
Africa
Mexico
Cairo, Egypt .............................[1]115 Johannesburg, South Africa ......[2]123 Lagos, Nigeria ...........................[2]139 Monrovia, Liberia........................[3]69 Nairobi, Kenya ..........................[3]115
Mexico City, Mexico....................[3]19
United States Atlanta, Georgia ...........................[1]1 Boston, Massachusetts .................[1]65 Chicago, Illinois ........................[1]145 Cleveland, Ohio ........................[1]161 Dallas, Texas .............................[1]177 Denver, Colorado.......................[1]191 Detroit, Michigan ..........................[2]1 Honolulu, Hawaii ........................[2]39 Houston, Texas ............................[2]57 Indianapolis, Indiana ..................[2]77 Los Angeles, California ..............[2]189 Miami, Florida.............................[3]37 Minneapolis, Minnesota .............[3]53 Nashville, Tennessee ..................[3]137 New Orleans, Louisiana.............[3]153 New York, New York ................[3]173 Phoenix, Arizona .........................[4]19 Philadelphia, Pennsylvania .............[4]1 San Francisco, California .............[4]85 Seattle, Washington....................[4]101 Washington, D.C..........................[4]18
Asia Bangkok, Thailand ......................[1]17 Beijing, China ..............................[1]33 Hong Kong, China.......................[2]21 Istanbul, Turkey ..........................[2]93 Jerusalem, Israel.........................[2]107 Manila, Philippines .......................[3]1 Mumbai (Bombay), India.............[3]99 Sydney, Australia .......................[4]117 Tokyo, Japan ............................[4]133
Europe Berlin, Germany...........................[1]49 Brussels, Belgium ........................[1]83 Istanbul, Turkey...........................[2]93 London, United Kingdom .........[2]169 Madrid, Spain ...........................[2]205 Paris, France ..............................[3]195 Prague, Czech Republic ...............[4]35 Rome, Italy ..................................[4]63
South America Buenos Aires, Argentina...............[1]97 Caracas, Venezuela ...................[1]131 Lima, Peru ................................[2]155 Rio de Janeiro, Brazil ..................[4]49
North America Canada Montréal, Québec .......................[3]83
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R E A D E R ’S G U I D E this Reader’s Guide, all of whom offered substantive insights that were instrumental to the creation of this work. The editors are extremely grateful for the time and effort these distinguished reviewers devoted to improving the quality of this work. Sixteen researchers, many of whom live in the city they profiled, are listed on the staff page. Their well-researched profiles give users of Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities an opportunity to compare the history and contemporary life in 50 of the world’s greatest cities—from the ancient cities of Cairo, Egypt and Istanbul, Turkey, to the fast-growing modern metropolitan communities of Lagos, Nigeria; Sydney, Australia; and Seattle, Washington.
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities presents profiles of 50 major cities from around the world, arranged alphabetically in four volumes. Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities is a new reference work organized under the Worldmark design. The Worldmark design assembles facts and data about each city in a common structure. Every profile contains a map, showing the city and its location. The challenging task of selecting the cities to be profiled in this first edition of Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities was accomplished with input from librarian advisors. From a list of over 100 candidate cities, 50 were selected to represent the continents and cultures of the world, with an emphasis on cities of the United States. Twenty-five cities from North America (including 21 U.S. cities) are profiled, 9 cities from Asia, 7 cities from Europe, 5 cities from Africa, and 4 from South America fill the four volumes. Profiles present text and graphical elements, including photographs, with the needs and interests of student researchers in mind. Recognition must be given to the many tourist bureaus, convention centers, city government press offices, and graphic agencies that contributed the data and photographs that comprise this encyclopedia. This edition also benefits from the work of the reviewers listed at the end of
Sources Due to the broad scope of this encyclopedia many sources were consulted in compiling the information and statistics presented in these volumes. Of primary importance were the official web sites posted by many of the cities’ government offices and tourist/convention bureaus on the World Wide Web. Also instrumental in the development of this publication was the web site of the U.S. Bureau of the Census, available at http://www.census.gov/. Finally, many fact sheets, booklets, and statistical abstracts were used to update
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READER’S GUIDE data not collected by federal or city governments. Profile Features The structure of the Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities entries—22 numbered headings—allows students to compare two or more cities in a variety of ways. Each city profile begins with the city name, state or province (where applicable), country, and continent. A city fact box provides information including dates founded and incorporated, city location, official city motto and flower, time zone, ethnic composition, city elevation, latitude and longitude, coastline (where applicable), climate information, annual mean temperature, seasonal average snowfall (where applicable), average annual precipitation, form of government, system of weights and measures used, monetary units, telephone area codes, and city postal codes. Where available, a picture of both the city seal and the city flag, with description, appear. With regard to the time zone, the standard time is given by time zone in relation to Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). The world is divided into 24 time zones, each one hour apart. The Greenwich meridian, which is 0 degrees, passes through Greenwich, England, a suburb of London. Greenwich is at the center of the initial time zone, known as Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). All times given are converted from noon in this zone. The time reported for the city is the official time zone. Also provided in each article is a Population Profile box comparing the city proper with its greater metropolitan
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area, including suburbs (where available), and lists facts such as population, racial breakdown, and nicknames. Profiles also include a City Fact Comparison box, comparing daily costs of visiting the city with costs for visiting representative cities elsewhere in the world (Cairo, Egypt; Rome, Italy; and Beijing, China). City maps, locator maps, and photos complement the entries. The body of each city’s profile is arranged in 22 numbered headings as follows: 1
INTRODUCTION. The city’s location
is described. City features are outlined, sometimes citing key facts from city history and major attractions. 2
GETTING THERE. Information is pro-
vided on major highways offering access into and around the city, as well as information on bus and railroad service, airports, and shipping. 3
GETTING AROUND. Information is
outlined on means of transportation within a city, including bus and commuter rail service; some entries include transportation modes that will be less familiar to many student researchers, such as the three-wheeled tuk-tuk of Bangkok, Thailand. Both commuter and sightseeing transportation methods are included. 4
PEOPLE. A population count is pro-
vided for the city proper and its metropolitan area, along with an ethnic/racial breakdown of the populace. For many cities, population growth patterns, languages, and religions are also discussed 5 NEIGHBORHOODS. Location, characteristics, and attractions of city historic
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
READER’S GUIDE and ethnic neighborhoods, and business and cultural districts are described. 6 HISTORY. City history is detailed from its founding to the present. 7
GOVERNMENT. Style of government
is described, and elected offices are listed, along with a description of each office and length of an elected term. 8 PUBLIC SAFETY. Police, fire, and ambulatory services are outlined, as well as any special city safety projects. Crime rate statistics are also listed. 9 ECONOMY. This section presents the key elements of the economy. Major industries and employment figures are also summarized.
Topography, climate, and flora and fauna are described, as well as any environmental concerns, programs, or clean-up efforts. 10
ENVIRONMENT.
11 SHOPPING. Popular shopping districts and venues are described, as well as any specialty items for which the city is renowned. 12 EDUCATION. Information about public education and key universities and technical institutes is detailed. 13 HEALTH CARE. Hospitals and other health services are described. Alternative or non-Western health care practices are described in some city profiles. 14
MEDIA. City newspapers, magazines,
television, and radio stations are listed. Where applicable, government influence on media is discussed.
15 SPORTS. Professional and amateur sports—from auto racing and rodeo to cricket and baseball—sports venues, and championships held are listed. Annual sporting events, major international tournaments, and popular recreational sports are also described. 16 PARKS AND RECREATION. Popular recreational activities and city pastimes, from strolling in a city park to playing polo, and the venues where they can be enjoyed, are detailed. 17 PERFORMING ARTS. Performing arts offered in the city are described, as well as the theaters and performing arts halls where they are offered. Notable annual events are listed. 18 LIBRARIES AND MUSEUMS. Notable libraries and descriptions of their holdings are described. Major museums, with information about their collections, are listed. 19
TOURISM. The importance of tourism
to the city is summarized, along with factors affecting the tourism industry. Key tourist attractions are listed. 20
HOLIDAYS AND FESTIVALS. Annu-
ally celebrated holidays and events are listed. 21
F A M O U S C I T I Z E N S . Famous peo-
ple who were born or lived in the city are listed, along with birth and death dates and short biographical descriptions. Bibliographic listings are provided at the end of each profile as a guide for accessing further information. Included are Web sites, 22
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
FOR
FURTHER
STUDY.
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READER’S GUIDE government offices, tourist and convention bureaus, major city publications, and books about the city and its history. Because some terms used in this encyclopedia will be new to students, each volume includes a glossary. A keyword index to all four volumes appears in Volume 4. Acknowledgments The editors are indebted to the following reviewers, without whom Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities would not have been possible. The individuals listed below were consulted on the content and structure of this encyclopedia. Their insights, opinions, and suggestions led to many enhancements and improvements in the presentation of the material. Ken Cornwell, Library Media Specialist, Northeast High School, Lincoln, Nebraska
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Cindy Doll, Librarian, Columbus Metropolitan Library, Columbus, Ohio Marilyn Eanes, School Library Media Specialist, Hopewell Middle School, Round Rock, Texas Jane Thomas, Library Manager, McNeil High School, Austin, Texas Glenda Willnerd, School Librarian, Lincoln High School, Lincoln, Nebraska Comments and Suggestions We welcome your comments on the Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities, as well as your suggestions for cities to be included in future editions. Please write: Editors, Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities, U•X•L, 27500 Drake Road, Farmington Hills, Michigan 48331– 3535; call toll-free: 1-800-877-4253; or send e-mail via www.galegroup.com.
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Manila Manila, Luzon, the Philippines, Asia Founded: 1571; Combined into metropolitan Manila: 1975 Location: Eastern shore of Manila Bay in Southwestern Luzon, the Philippines, Southeast Asia Time Zone: 8 PM in Manila = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: Mostly Tagalog group, with approximately 6% Chinese Elevation: 51 feet Latitude and Longitude: 14º50'N, 121ºE Coastline: Manila sits in the coastal lowlands of Manila Bay, and is divided into southern and northern districts by the Pasig River. Climate: warm and humid most of the year. Rainy season is May through November. Annual Mean Temperature: 25ºC (77ºF); May average daily high 35ºC (95ºF) Average Annual Precipitation: 81.3 inches (208.5 cm), falling mostly between May and November Government: Mayor, Vice-Mayor, 36 elected Councilors Weights and Measures: Metric System Monetary Units: Philippine Peso (P) = 100 centavos Telephone Area Codes: 02 (city code for Manila); 63 (country code for the Philippines) Postal Codes: Rarely used in the Philippines
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Introduction
Manila, also known as the Pearl of the Orient, is located in Southern Luzon, the largest of the more than 7,000 islands that make up the nation known as the Philippines. The city flanks Manila Bay, and is divided into northern and southern sections by the Pasig River. Manila serves not only as the country’s capitol, but also as its financial, publishing, and business center. The citizens of the city speak Tagalog, but most are also fluent in English, which is the language of instruction in the public schools. Manila contains
many of the country’s largest and most prestigious universities and is also home to the National Library. It was the central location of the nation’s battles for independence, first from Spain and later from the United States. Colonized by the Spanish and later governed by the Americans, Manila shows the signs of foreign influence in the widespread Roman Catholicism and the modeling of its schools upon the American educational system. Despite these influences, Manila and its citizens demonstrate a character and vitality uniquely their own.
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Manila
Manila Population Profile City Proper Population: 1,876,194 Area: 38.3 sq km (14.94 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 94% Christian Malay; 6% Chinese Nicknames: The Pearl of the Orient
Metropolitan Area Population: 7,832,000 Description: Includes Manila, plus seven other cities and nine towns Area: 636 sq km (248.04 sq mi) World population rank1: approx. 25 Percentage of national population2: 24.6% Average yearly growth rate: 3.1% Nicknames: Metro Manila ——— 1. The Manila metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the Philippines’s total population living in the Manila metropolitan area.
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Getting There
Metropolitan Manila is located in the southern region of Luzon, the largest island in the Philippines, an archipelago nation comprised of more than 7,000 islands in the southwest Pacific Ocean between the equator and the Tropic of Cancer. Manila sits in the coastal lowlands of Manila Bay and is divided into southern and northern districts by the Pasig River. Highways The major routes into Manila are Epifanio de los Santos Avenue (ESDA), the South Super Highway, the C-5
2
Highway, and the ESDA-North Diversion link. Bus and Railroad Service Good public transportation is available in Manila. Several major bus companies provide transportation into the city from the outlying areas; bus terminals are located throughout the Metro area. Those closest to downtown Manila are at Plaza Lawton (also known as Liwasang Bonifacio) and in Pasay City, on the ESDA near Taft Avenue. There are train depots in Paco and Makati districts, and commuter trains running north-south during rush hours. Airports Manila is the main entry point into the Philippines for international travelers. International flights and many domestic flights land at Ninoy Aquino International Airport in Paranaque, which is on the southern edge of Metropolitan Manila. Manila Domestic Airport also services domestic flights within the Philippines. Limousine services, public buses, taxis, hotel shuttles, and car rental firms service both airports. Carriers with service to Ninoy Aquino International Airport include Northwest, China Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Japan Airlines, Korean Air, Malaysian Airlines, Singapore Airlines, Thai Airways, and PAL (Philippine Air Lines), the national carrier of the Philippines.
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Manila
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Manila Shipping
Sightseeing
Although Manila is a major Asian seaport, international travel to Manila by boat is very difficult to arrange. Regular passenger boat service exists between Manila and other Philippine ports.
Hotels and travel agencies in Manila offer sightseeing trips by bus. A refitted tanker called the Tennessee Walker provides nightly dinner cruises of Manila Bay. The Department of Tourism can provide English, Spanish, Japanese-speaking guides, as well as guides in other languages.
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Getting Around
A wide range of public transportation crosses the metro area every day. The most uniquely Philippine mode of travel is the jeepney. Each of these jeepminivan hybrids is uniquely painted and decorated by its owner. Jeepneys provide cheap transportation (fares average P5 to P10) for the short haul, while buses might be more comfortable for longer trips across town. Motorcycles and bicycles with sidecars (called “tricycles” and “pedicabs,” respectively) carry passengers on narrow city streets and alleyways for a charge of a few pesos. Taxicabs are used in the business districts, while in other neighborhoods, including Chinatown and Intramuros, horse-drawn carriages carry both goods and passengers. Bus and Commuter Rail Service The Light Rail Transit provides safe, fast transportation on an elevated railway. It has a limited number of stops, running from Caloocan City south to Baclaran in Pasay City. Currently most stops are in Manila, but more stations are under construction. The Light Rail runs between 4 AM and 9 PM at a fare of P5.
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People
In 1990, the population of the city of Manila was 1,876,194, while the population of the area known as Metro Manila was 7,832,000. Approximately 94 percent of Manila's population is of Malay-Indonesian descent, often infused with Spanish, Chinese, American, and European blood. Of the remainder of the population, between five and six percent are Chinese; this portion of the population includes many of Manila’s wealthiest families and businessmen. Because interracial marriage is common in the Philippines, many Manila residents can be described as Mestizos, the product of marriage between Filipinos and Caucasians or Chinese and non-Chinese. Tagalog is the main language of Manila. Part of the Malay-Polynesian group of languages, it contains words borrowed from many sources including Spanish, Arabic, Chinese, and Sanskrit. Because more than 70 dialects are spoken in the Philippines, the country has been working toward developing a true national language. The language, called Filipino, is based most heavily on Tagalog. A small percentage of the popula-
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Manila
City Fact Comparison Manila (Philippines)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
7,832,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1571
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$134
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$48
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$12
$14
$15
$16
$194
$173
$246
$207
38
13
20
11
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
Total daily costs Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
People’s Bagong Akhbar El Yom/ Taliba Al Akhbar 508,000
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
n.a.
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
tion—mainly the upper class—claims Spanish as its mother tongue. English is widely spoken and is generally the language of business and politics. English is also the language of instruction in the public schools, although a move to replace English with Filipino in the schools was backed by the Ramos government (1992–98). 5
Neighborhoods
Metro Manila is a conglomeration of 17 municipalities, with neighborhoods ranging from the historic sights of Intramuros to sophisticated business centers in Makati to the squatter shantytowns of Tondo.
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Rizal Park is at the city’s physical center. To the north of the park is Intramuros, an old, walled city built by the Spanish. Although Intramuros was heavily damaged during World War II (1939–45), it is being restored and is an area of great cultural and historical interest. To the south of Rizal Park are Ermita and Malate, areas that previously housed Manila’s middle and upper classes, but that now form the tourist belt. These areas are home to many hotels and restaurants, as well as to Manila’s vibrant nightlife. Manila’s business center is Makati, a modern showplace of shopping centers and skyscrapers. Residential dis-
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Manila
Manila, nicknamed the Pearl of the Orient, rests on the Manila Bay. (Mike Yamashita; Woodfin Camp)
tricts, home to wealthy Filipinos and foreign residents, surround the business hub. Forbes Park is Makati’s most exclusive address, housing millionaires behind locked gates and under the protection of private security forces. Many embassies, consulates, polo clubs, and golf clubs also claim Makati addresses. In contrast to Makati is Tondo, a slum area near the Tayuman train station, where an estimated 180,000 of Manila's citizens live in subsistence conditions.
ing small shops. It is located partly in Santa Cruz and partly in Binondo.
Manila’s Chinatown is a longestablished, lively area of restaurants, mah jong clubs, teahouses, and intrigu-
Paranaque and Las Pinas are both old salt-making towns, each known for their distinctive churches. The Las Pinas
6
Each of the other towns that make up Metro Manila has its own character. A government center and home to the main campus of the University of the Philippines, Quezon City also contains many elegant residential neighborhoods. Cubao is Quezon City’s commercial center, and houses the Araneta Coliseum, the site of sporting events.
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Manila Church houses a world-famous organ made of bamboo. At Paranaque’s Church of Our Lady of Perpetual Help, the novenas held each Wednesday attract large crowds and turn the neighborhood into an informal marketplace of merchandise and food vendors. Malabon’s fame also stems from religious roots, for each year on Good Friday, this fishing village is transformed by parades of masked devotees whipping themselves over the shoulders as a demonstration of their religious ardor. 6
History
The city of Manila was established in 1571 when the Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legaspi arrived and made it the capitol of the colony “Felipinas.” At the time of Legaspi’s arrival, Manila was a walled Moslem settlement ruled by the Rajah Sulayman, who collected duties from the traders from neighboring island countries who wanted to travel up the Pasig River. Sulayman resisted the intrusion of the Spanish and fled across the river to the area known today as Tondo. When Sulayman’s men met Legaspi's forces at the Battle of Bangkusay Channel on June 3, 1571, they faced the muskets and cannons of the Spanish with only spears and arrows. The Moslems were defeated, and Sulayman himself lost his life during the battle. Although the Chinese invaded Manila in 1574 and the Dutch in the mid-seventeenth century, the Spanish retained control of Manila for 327 years, except for a brief interlude in
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1762 (during the Seven Years’ War) when the British occupied the city. When the Seven Years’ War ended, Manila was once again under the rule of Spain as a condition of the 1763 Treaty of Paris. The Spanish brought Roman Catholicism to Manila, founding many churches, convents, and schools. This influence remains to this day, as the Philippines is the only Asian country in which Christianity is the predominant faith. The citizens of Manila chafed under the yoke of Spanish domination. The seeds of revolution germinated in 1886 with the publication of Dr. Jose Rizal’s book Noli Me Tangere (Touch Me Not), a novel critical of the way the Spanish friars were governing the Philippines. The Spanish condemned Noli Me Tangere, and Rizal was exiled to Hong Kong. In 1892 he returned to Manila to found La Liga Filipina, a nationalistic organization. Later that year in the Tondo section of Manila, Andres Bonifacio founded the Katipunan, a secret organization devoted to attaining Filipino freedom from Spain. The Spanish discovered the Katipunan in August of 1896 and banished hundreds of Filipinos. Many others were killed. Within ten days, the Katipunan Revolt began, with an open declaration of war against Spain. Jose Rizal became a martyr of the revolution when the Spanish executed him by firing squad on December 30, 1896, in Bagumbayan, Taguig (now part of Metro Manila), for his alleged role in the Katipunan Revolt.
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Manila With the unmasking of the Katipunan, Andres Bonifacio called the Tejeros Convention, at which the revolutionary Tejeros government was formed, with General Emilio Aguinaldo at its head. The Tejeros government was unsuccessful in its fight for freedom from Spain, and as part of the Pact of Biak-na-Bato peace treaty, General Aguinaldo accepted exile in Hong Kong. Despite the failure of the Tejeros revolution, Spanish rule of the Philippines was soon to come to an end. The Spanish-American War battlefield spread to Manila in 1898, where U.S. Commodore George Dewey defeated the Spanish fleet in the Battle of Manila Bay. With the Americans came General Aguinaldo, arriving on the U.S. warship USS McCullock, ready to resume his revolutionary activities against Spain. On June 12, 1898, in Manila, General Aguinaldo declared the Philippines independent from Spain; however, his declaration was not recognized internationally. The United States paid Spain 20 million dollars for their former colony, and Filipinos once again found themselves under foreign rule. War broke out between the Filipinos and the Americans on February 4, 1899, when an American soldier shot and killed a Filipino in Manila. The Philippine-American War continued through 1903 at the cost of many lives both in Manila and elsewhere throughout the islands. In 1935, the U.S. government committed itself to granting the Philippines
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independence after a ten-year transition, a period that was extended by one year due to World War II. On January 2, 1942, the Japanese landed in Manila, where they remained for three years until they were forced out of their Intramuros stronghold in February 1945. Manila was severely damaged by the bombings of World War II. Of national capitols, only Warsaw, Poland, suffered greater destruction. On July 4, 1946, the Philippine flag was raised for the first time in Rizal Park in Manila, and the nation celebrated its first day of independence. Manila played a key role in the upsetting of dictatorial President Ferdinand Marcos. On August 21, 1983, exiled former senator Benigno Aquino was assassinated at Manila Airport immediately upon his return to his homeland. This assassination shocked the city and the nation and united opposition groups to fight for the end to his rule. 7
Government
The government of the city of Manila is under an umbrella government called the Metropolitan Manila Authority. The Authority governs all the towns and cities that make up Metropolitan Manila. The city government consists of an elected mayor and vicemayor, along with 36 elected councilors. 8
Public Safety
The Metro Manila police force is under the administration of the Philip-
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Manila
The Manila Bay is one of the most protected natural resources in the Philippines. (Mike Yamashita; Woodfin Camp)
pines National Police (PNP) and is divided into five geographic districts. In 1997, the PNP instituted a special task force called “Task Force Tanglow” in Manila and throughout the entire country, focusing on the problems of violence and abuse directed at women and children. 9
Economy
Manila’s economy is multi-faceted. Diverse products, such as chemicals, textiles, rope, coconut oil, and shoes, are manufactured within the metropolitan area. Food and tobacco processing also employ many residents. With its
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
excellent protected harbor, Manila serves as the nation’s principal port. In addition, it is the financial and publishing center for the Philippines. The widespread use of English gives the city an advantage in international trade not shared by many Asian cities. Manila shares the problems of many large cities, however. It is overpopulated, and municipal agencies struggle to keep up with the demand for services. 10
Environment
One of Manila’s greatest natural resources is the protected harbor upon which it sits, the finest in all of Asia.
9
Manila handicrafts, such as carvings, lamps made of shells, and canework, would do well to try the shops at the Nayong Pilipino or to visit the famous outdoor market in Quiapo called Ilalim ng Tulay. (The name means “under the bridge,” for the market is located under the Quezon Bridge.) Other outdoor markets are found throughout the Metro Manila area. Notable ones include the Quinta Market in Quiapo, not far from Ilalim ng Tulay; Cartimar Market in Pasay, known as a place to buy pets; and the Baclaran Flea Market, located near the Baclaran Church in Baclaran, Manila. The Baclaran Market sells food, flowers, and household items, and is especially lively after mass on Wednesdays. Bargaining is acceptable and even expected at most outdoor markets.
Shoppers can choose between traditional open-air markets, or air-conditioned shopping malls with department stores, art galleries, and food courts. (Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp)
The sea provides fish, shells, and salt. Although Manila is now overwhelmingly urban, outlying areas still provide coconuts, hemp for rope making, and rice. Another source of Manila’s wealth is its people, with their high literacy rate and facility with languages. 11
Shopping
Manila offers a variety of shopping experiences, from colorful open-air markets to air-conditioned shopping malls. Shoppers seeking Philippine
10
Makati, the commercial hub of Metro Manila and the nation, boasts department stores, designer boutiques, and art galleries. Major shopping areas include the Makati Commercial Center, the Atrium of Makati, Makati Cinema Square, and the Greenbelt Square. The Cubao area of Quezon City also contains major shopping districts, including Araneta Center, which has nearly two thousand stores. 12
Education
The Philippine educational system is made up of six years of elementary school, four years of secondary school (high school), and higher education (college or university). Children are required to attend the first four years of
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Manila
School children play during recess at Assumption College, an exclusive girl’s school. (Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp)
elementary school. Approximately 88 percent of those over 15 years of age are literate. Several universities are based in Metro Manila. The Ateneo de Manila University in Quezon City offers elementary, secondary and undergraduate education, as well as graduate schools of arts and science, law, and business. The University of the Philippines Manila (UPM) contains colleges of medicine, nursing, public health, pharmacy, and dentistry, and supports institutes of ophthalmology and socio-biomedical research. Philippine General Hospital is
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the training hospital for the UPM colleges. Founded in 1611, the University of Santo Tomas is Asia’s oldest university. Originally located within the walled city of Intramuros and intended for the education of priests, it has moved to larger quarters in Sampaloc, and now offers a wide range of courses, including music, architecture, engineering, business administration, and education. Other institutes of higher education in Metro Manila include the University of the Philippines (in Quezon City), De LaSalle University, the University of the East (UE Manila),
11
Manila Mapua Institute of Technology (MIT), and Asia Pacific College. 13
Health Care
Philippine General Hospital is the training hospital for the health colleges of the University of the Philippines Manila. A large facility, it serves approximately 700,000 patients per year. The Philippine Heart Center in Quezon City offers seminars and postgraduate courses to health care professionals. Nearly a million patients have been treated at the Heart Center since it opened its doors in 1975. The Center is also active in community outreach and education. Other health care facilities in the Metro Manila area include the University of Santo Tomas Hospital, the Makati Medical Center, and St. Luke’s Medical Center in Quezon City. 14
Media
For 20 years under the Marcos regime, official government censorship limited what the newspapers in Manila could print, and only four daily papers served the population. Now, with the absence of censorship, daily newspapers have flourished in the capital city, with more than 20 daily papers available. A variety of viewpoints are represented in the daily papers, which include the Manila Bulletin, Inquirer, Malaya, and the Manila Chronicle. Most publish in English, although papers are also available in Tagalog and, to a lesser extent, in Chinese. A few weekly magazines are published in Manila, including Free Press, which is known for expressing
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critical and irreverent viewpoints. American magazines, such as Time and Newsweek, are widely available. Seven commercial television stations operate out of Manila, broadcasting some shows in English, some in Tagalog. Satellite and cable TV are available to a limited extent. More than a dozen commercial radio stations broadcast from the Metro Manila area, including DWNU, “The Only Station that Rocks the Nation,” and DWFM, whose slogan is “Most Requested Song.” Movie-going is very popular in Manila. Modern movie theaters throughout the Metro Manila area show both Philippine and foreign movies. 15
Sports
The most popular spectator sport in Manila is basketball. Manila has its own professional team in the Philippines Metropolitan Basketball League (MBA), the Manila Metrostars. Games for this league, as well as for the Philippine Basketball Association (PBA), take place at the Rizal Memorial Stadium and the Araneta Coliseum. Other popular spectator sports include jai-alai, horse racing, and cockfighting. Jai-alai games take place seven days a week at Jai-alai de Manila stadium in Malate. Horse races are held Wednesday nights and Saturday and Sunday afternoons at race tracks in Santa Ana and Santa Cruz. Cockfights take place in various locations, mostly
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Manila on Sundays and holidays. The most well-known cockpits are the Philippine Cockers Club in Santa Ana, La Lorna in Quezon City, and Libertad in Pasay City. 16
Parks and Recreation
Rizal Park, also known locally as Luneta Park, is a popular strolling ground at the center of Manila. With flowers, fountains, and lush lawns, it is usually filled with thousands of people in the late afternoons and evenings. It contains a memorial to Dr. Jose Rizal, the national hero who was executed nearby by the Spanish in 1896. A changing of the guard ceremony takes place regularly, as well as twice daily light shows near a set of statues reenacting the execution. The 6:30 PM show is in Tagalog while the 7:30 PM show is in English. The park also contains playgrounds, a roller-skating rink, an openair auditorium, and gardens in traditional, Japanese, and Chinese styles. Other parks in the Metro area include Fort Santiago Park in Manila, and Quezon Memorial Circle and the Ninoy Aquino Park and Wildlife Center, both in Quezon City. The Manila Zoological Garden is in Malate. While it contains interesting specimens of the Philippine eagle and the dwarf buffalo, the facility is known to be crowded and many of the animals neglected. The Chinese Cemetery in the area of Santa Cruz known as Monumento is a fascinating place because of the blending of Catholic, Buddhist, and
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Taoist traditions and the grandiose nature of some of the tombs. Some monuments include mailboxes, refrigerators, and even air-conditioning. Tour guides are available. Golfing is available at 11 greens throughout the Metro Manila area. 17
Performing Arts
Music of many types can be found in Manila. The Cultural Centre in Manila hosts performances by international orchestras and artists as well as by the Philippine Philharmonic Orchestra and the Philippine Madrigal Singers. Free outdoor musical performances are held weekly in Paco Park on Fridays, at Puerta Real at the Intramuros Wall on Saturdays, and at Rizal Park on Sunday afternoons. Jazz is performed regularly in several of the larger hotels’ lounges. Numerous bistros and cafes provide a stage for local singers or the chance for a karaoke experience. Folk dancing demonstrations are held Sunday afternoons in the Mindanao section of Nayong Pilipino in Pasay City. Several restaurants in the Metro area feature Philippine folk dancing as their dinner entertainment. A variety of live theater experience is available in Manila. The Rajah Sulayman Theater, located in Intramuros, provides open-air performances. Other theaters are located in Malate at the Cultural Center of the Philippines, as well as at the Folk Arts Theater and at the William Shaw Theater in Mandaluyong.
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Manila 18
Libraries and Museums
Metro Manila offers visitors the opportunity to explore the cultural wealth of the Philippines through art museums, historical museums, and cultural and scientific displays. Three art museums can be found in Malate: the Cultural Center Museum, the Metropolitan Museum of Manila, and the Museo ng Sining, which is the largest museum of contemporary art in the Philippines. The San Augustin Museum in Intramuros contains oil paintings, frescoes, and vestments. The National Museum, located in Rizal Park, contains prehistoric artifacts, as well as pottery, weapons, and costumes. Seven native boats, dating from between 890 and 710 B.C., are also featured. The Ayala Museum in Malate presents a chronological display of Philippine history in over 60 dioramas. The Lopez Museum in Pasig has a collection of over 13,000 Filipino books, some dating back as far as 1524. Its large collection of historical travel literature includes the first printed account of Magellan’s journey to the Philippines. The Rizal Shrine, which honors national hero Dr. Jose Rizal, is located at Fort Santiago in Intramuros. It displays some of his personal belongings, as well as the cell in which he was imprisoned. Casa Manila Museum, also located in Intramuros, is a reproduction of a typical Spanish residence. Another historical residence on display is the former Malacanang Palace, now known as the Museo ng Malacanang. This museum
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once housed examples of the Marcos’s notorious extravagance but now contains mostly photographs of former presidents. The Nayong Pilipino (“Philippine Village”) is a large complex providing a miniaturized version of the entire country, with representative native homes and regional landscapes. It also contains several specialized museums, including the Museum of Philippine Dolls and the Nayong Pilipino Aquarium. The Philippine Museum of Ethnology, also part of the Nayong Pilipino, contains information on the country’s cultural minorities, with examples of tools, musical instruments, weapons, and utensils. The Museo Pambata in Ermita is a children’s museum that encourages hands-on exploration of a rainforest, a streetcar, and an old-fashioned fire engine. The Museum of Arts and Sciences at the University of Santo Tomas has a variety of exhibits, as well as an extensive library. The National Library in Manila has an extensive collection of approximately 1.3 million books. Other libraries may be found in the area colleges and universities and at the International Rice Research Institute. 19
To u r i s m
In recent years, many luxury hotels have been built in Manila to handle the increasing tide of business travel and the tourists who are drawn by the tropical climate, diving opportunities, and
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Manila hospitable people. Budget-priced hostels are available as well. Nearly all of the 1.5 million tourists who visit the Philippines each year enter through Manila and spend at least some of their holiday in the capital city. Many also use Manila as a base from which to explore other nearby attractions, such as the beaches of Bantangas and the hot springs of Los Banos. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Black Nazarene Procession Feast of the Santo Nino (Holy Infant) Chinese Lunar New Year, Chinatown (depending on lunar calendar, occurs between mid-January and mid-February)
The most unique and inexpensive way to take a short trip around town is to ride in a Jeepney. Each one is exclusive in its decoration. (George Hall; Woodfin Camp)
FEBRUARY
DECEMBER
Feast of Our Lady of Lourdes, Quezon City People Power Days, celebrating the peaceful end of the Marcos era, Quezon City
Feast of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, night boat procession Simbang Gabi, night masses held just before dawn throughout the Christmas season
MARCH-APRIL Maundy Thursday Good Friday
MAY Labor Day, parade in Rizal Park Flores de Mayo-Santacruzan, processions in honor of the Virgin Mary
JUNE Manila Day, anniversary of Manila’s being declared a city in 1571, parade and film festival
JULY Filipino-American Friendship Day, evening concert in Rizal Park Paternos River Fiesta
OCTOBER La Naval de Manila, evening candle-lit procession commemorating the 1646 sea victory over Dutch plunderers, Quezon City
NOVEMBER All Saints Day
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Famous Citizens
Lorenzo Ruiz (c. 1600–37), calligrapher, executed in Japan for refusing to renounce Christianity, canonized in 1987, becoming first Filipino saint. Mariano Gomes (1799–1872), secular priest and martyr, founder of newspaper La Verdad, which reported Spanish abuses. Jose Maria Basa (1839–1907), reformer and patriot. Numeriano Adriano (1846–97), reformer and patriot, leading member of
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Manila La Liga Filipina, executed by the Spanish for treason. Trinidad Pardo de Taverna (1857–1925), director of National Library and Museum, co-founder of the Federal Party, which advocated statehood in the Philippines. Orencio Lerma (1861–97), musician and martyr, executed by the Spanish. Andres Bonifacio (1863–97), co-founder of the Katipunan, led revolution against Spain in 1896. Teodoro Plata (1866–96), co-founder of the Katipunan, executed by the Spanish. General Antonio Luna (1866–99), called “the greatest soldier of the revolution,” founded and edited La Independencia, the newspaper of the revolution. 22
For Further Study
Websites Manila Bulletin. [Online] Available http:// www.mb.com.ph (accessed January 21, 2000). Manila Times. [Online] Available http:// www.manilatimes.net (accessed January 21, 2000).
Government Offices Mayor’s Office (02) 527-4991 City Press Office (02) 527-0909 Director, Public Recreation Bureau (02) 524-8157
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Tourist and Convention Bureaus Department of Tourism Office, Manila TM Kalaw Street Ermita, Luzon The Philippines (02) 523-8411
Publications Abante 268 Atlanta Manila Ang Pahayagang Malaya (Freedom Newspaper) 202 Railroad and 13th Street Port Area Manila Ang Pilipino Ngayon (Philippines Today; in Filipino) 202 Railroad and 13th Street Port Area Manila China Town News (in Chinese) 652 St. Tomas Street Intramuros Manila Financial Times of Manila Times Journal Building Railroad and 19th Street Manila Malaya (Freedom) C. C. Castro Building Tomog Avenue Manila Manila Bulletin Corner of Muralla and Recoletos P. O. Box 769 Intramuros Manila Chronicle 371 Bonifacio Drive Port Area Manila Manila Standard Elizalde Building, 4th Floor Ayalda Avenue Manila Manila Times 30 Pioneer Street Mandaluyong
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Manila People's Bagong Taliba Times Journal Building Railroad and 19th Street Port Area Manila People's Journal Times Journal Building Railroad and 19th Street Port Area Manila Philippine Daily Inquirer YIC Building, No. 1006 Romualdez Street UN Avenue Manila Philippine Star 202 Railroad and 13th Street Port Area Manila Philippines Times Journal Times Journal Building Railroad and 19th Street Port Area Manila United Daily News (in English and Chinese) 812 Benavides Street Binondo
Books Allen, Francis J. Concrete Battleship: Fort Drum, El Fraile Island, Manila Bay. Missoula, MT: Pictorial Histories Publishing Company, 1989. Berner, Erhard. Defending a Place in the City: Localities and the Struggle for Urban Land in Metro Manila. Manila: Ateneo de Manila University Press, 1998. Bowditch, Nathaniel. Early American-Philippine
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Trade: the Journal of Nathaniel Bowditch in Manila, 1796. New Haven: Yale University Southeast Asia Studies, 1987. Brittan, Dolly. The People of the Philippines. New York: Powerkids Press, 1998. Caoili, Manuel A. The Origins of Metropolitan Manila: A Political and Social Analysis. Diliman, Quezon City: University of the Philippines Press, 1999. Connaughton, R.M., John Pimlott, and Duncan Anderson. The Battle for Manila. Norvato, CA: Presidio Press, 1995. Davis, Lucille. The Philippines (Countries of the World). Mankato, MN: Bridgestone Books, 1999. Kinkade, Sheila, and Elaine Little (photog). Children of the Philippines (World's Children). Minneapolis: Carolrhoda Books, 1996. Mansfield, Stephen. Guide to Philippines. UK: Bradt Publications, 1997. Michel, John J.A. Mr. Michel's War: From Manila to Mukden: An American Navy Officer's War with the Japanese, 1941– 1945. Norvato, CA, 1998. Moser, Caroline and Cathy McIlwaine. Household Responses to Poverty and Vulnerability. Washington, D.C.: World Bank, 1997. Peters, Jens. Lonely Planet Philippines (6th Ed.). Hawthorne, Victoria, Australia: Lonely Planet Publications, 1997. Rizal, Jose, Raul L. Locsin, ed. and Ma Soledad Locson-Locsin, transl. Noli Me Tangere. Honolulu: University of Hawaii Press, 1997. Roth, Marissa, Jessica Hagedorn, and Hagedorn Roth. Burning Heart: A Portrait of the Philippines. New York: Rizzoli International Publications, 1999. Schemenauer, Elma. The Philippines. Charhassen, MN: Childs World, 1999.
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Mexico City Mexico City, Mexico, North America Founded: 1521; Incorporated: 1522 Location: North America, Mexico, in a basin known as the Valley of Mexico, built on the dried bed of Lake Texcoco. Mountains surround the city, with the 17,877foot active Popocatépetl Volcano (the smoking mountain) nearby. Time Zone: 6 AM = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Elevation: 7,340 ft (2,237 m) Latitude and Longitude: 19º26'N, 99º7'W Climate: Because of its altitude, Mexico City's weather is cool, with small seasonal changes. While snow is rare, night frosts are common during the colder months of December and January. Annual Median Temperature: 18ºC (64ºF). During the colder months, temperatures average 12.4ºC (54.3ºF). During the rainy season (May through September) remperatures average 17.3ºC (63.1ºF) Average Annual Precipitation: 180 cm (70.5 in) per year. Weights and Measures: Metric Monetary Units: The peso; 9.4 pesos = $ 1 (January 2000) Telephone Area Codes: Country code: (52); Mexico City: (5)
1
Introduction
On a cold winter day, when the wind doesn’t blow, Mexico City lies shrouded by a thick, brown cover. Caught within the tall mountains that surround the mile-high city, the smog permeates everything. The eyes sting, and clothes smell like gasoline. The clearing of throats soon turns to hacking, and the lines at the hospitals grow long. At its worst, Mexico City seems to take the very life out of its citizens. But while they complain about the smog, the traffic, even about its politics and the price of fruit, it is rare to hear Chilangos—the name given to Mexico City
residents—express contempt or hatred for their city. They cherish those rare clear days, when the winds have scrubbed the skies clean and turned them deep blue. In the distance the active Popocatepétl Volcano rumbles and spits fire, while its eternal companion, the dormant Iztaccíhuatl, stands silently by. Sitting in a small plaza adjacent to cobblestone streets and hundred-year-old trees in one of the city's colonial neighborhoods, it is easy to forget that more than 20 million people live within the radius of a few miles. Twenty million people. Visitors shudder at the thought
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Mexico City
Mexico City Population Profile
remains of an Aztec temple peek over a protective wall. Two worlds came to a cataclysmic clash, and yet created something new: Mexico City.
City Proper Population: 8,500,000 Area: 1,499 sq km (579 sq mi) Nicknames: Mexico, "El D.F." (The Federal District); informally, the residents of Mexico City are called chilangos.
Metropolitan Area Population: 18,131,000 Description: Mexico City and 27 neighboring municipalities (second largest metropolitan area in the world) Area: More than 2,330 sq km (900 sq mi) World population rank1: 2 Percentage of national population2: 18.3% Average yearly growth rate: 1.8% ——— 1. The Mexico City metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of Mexico’s total population living in the Mexico City metropolitan area.
of getting lost among the millions, for Mexico City has been called cruel, unrelenting, inhuman. Twenty million people, and at times, just as many cars—or so it seems. It is a city where citizens trust the robbers more than police officers. How could anybody willingly want to live there? It has all been said; even Chilangos have said it. And yet it has also been said that this is a cosmopolitan, deeply sophisticated, and marvelous city, with a history that stretches for many centuries. Anyone who stands in the city’s Zocalo, the main square, will see the mighty cathedral slowly sinking into the soft silt of a former lake. Next to the cathedral, almost as if rising from that very soil, the excavated
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2
Getting There
Highways Five main national highways connect Mexico City to the rest of the nation. By March 1999, nearly 240,000 vehicles per day used the highways to enter and leave the city. Bus and Railroad Service More than 24,000 passenger buses arrive in the Federal District each week, bringing passengers from throughout the country. Overland travelers from the United States can take their own vehicles or travel by bus or train to Mexico City. Airports Most international visitors to Mexico City arrive at the Benito Juárez International Airport, located on the eastern border of the city. The airport is used by nearly 19 million travelers each year. 3
Getting Around
Bus and Commuter Rail Service With more than 3 million registered vehicles, Mexico City is difficult to navigate. Major roads are nearly always congested by every possible mode of transport. Most common are taxis, VW “bugs” painted green or yel-
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Mexico City
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Mexico City low, and small buses known as “peseros” because they originally charged one Mexican peso for a ride. Buses that burn cleaner fuels are replacing the highly polluting peseros. The city also is adding more electric buses to its fleet. The efficient underground metro system, which opened in 1969, carried about four-and-a-half million passengers per day in 1999. By 2010, the metro system is expected to grow to 15 lines, stretch over 315 kilometers (196 miles), and carry more than 12 million passengers per day. Mexico City opened a new underground metro line in November 1999. When fully completed, Line B will stretch for nearly 24 kilometers (15 miles), from the heart of the city to the fast growing northeast suburbs. More than 600,000 passengers per day were estimated to board along the line’s 21 stations in 2000. In January 2000, the government set the fare for the metro and buses at 1.50 pesos (about 25 cents). Senior citizens and the indigent travel for free. 4
People
About one-fifth of Mexico’s people live in the metropolitan area. Most of its inhabitants are people of mixed European and Indian descent (mestizos) and Mexicans of European descent (criollos). But steady immigration from rural areas has brought more indigenous people to the city. Most Mexicans are Roman Catholic, but other religions have shown significant growth in recent years.
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5
Neighborhoods
Similar to other major metropolitan areas in developing nations, Mexico City’s neighborhoods range from those in extreme poverty, where residents live in dilapidated homes without water and electricity, to posh neighborhoods that rival Beverly Hills, California, in their wealth. It is still possible, in this megalopolis of millions, to find a quiet corner in some small tree-lined plaza where the noises and smells of millions of cars seem to vanish. The heart of the city, built over the remnants of the Aztec city of Tenochtitlán, is known today as “El Centro” (downtown) or Mexico Viejo (Old Mexico). It is a large area of about four square kilometers (two-and-a-half square miles) dotted by dozens of museums and plazas and thousands of shops and restaurants. Its sidewalks are often crowded by thousands of street merchants selling toys, piñatas, leather belts, and cure-all medicinal herbs. Designated as a historic treasure, Mexico City has embarked on a revitalization program spearheaded by the government that is expected to take many years to complete. The downtown area is defined by its Zocalo, a massive open central plaza that is surrounded by the imposing Cathedral of Mexico, the National Palace, the official seat of the presidency, and many fine colonial buildings, including City Hall. Next to the cathedral are the excavated ruins of Templo Mayor, one of the most important ceremonial buildings of the Aztec era. It was
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Mexico City
City Fact Comparison Indicator
Mexico City (Mexico)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
18,131,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1521
753 BC
723 BC
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$152
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$57
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$14
$14
$15
$16
$223
$173
$246
$207
24
13
20
11
Esto
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
400,000
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1941
1944
1976
1948
Total daily costs Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established 1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
first uncovered in 1978, and archaeologists continue to make new discoveries in the area. The city plans to plant trees in the vast and empty Zocalo to make it friendlier to visitors and to help combat air pollution. During colonial times, Spaniards built fine mansions in Mexico Viejo. Today, most of these have been turned into businesses or torn down to make way for newer buildings. Others languish in disrepair. Near downtown is La Zona Rosa (the Pink Zone), a neighborhood crowded with expensive restaurants and shops. The neighborhood is not as vibrant as it once was but remains popular among international
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visitors. As the city grew, its wealthy citizens continued to move west, building homes in the residential neighborhoods of Polanco, Lomas de Chapultepec, and Bosques de las Lomas. The city stretched south as well, swallowing small surrounding towns and incorporating them into the city. Two of them are Coyoacan and San Angel, where many neighborhoods are defined by their small plazas, cobblestone streets lined by massive old trees, and colonial mansions, many hidden by high walls and colorful gardens. On weekends, thousands of Chilangos descend on Coyoacan and San Angel to shop in the small boutiques and at
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Mexico City
Mexico City’s skyline is lined with historical landmarks. (Mike Yamashita; Woodfin Camp)
street fairs. They sit at the coffee shops and eat at the fine restaurants or buy paintings and sculptures from artists who display their work in the plazas. Here, visitors find a little of the old, provincial Mexico. Farther south is Ciudad Universitaria or University City, home to Mexico’s National University (UNAM). Nearby is the modern and wealthy neighborhood of Pedregal de San Angel, where many homes offer fine examples of modern architecture. The university campus and Pedregal’s homes were built on top of lava fields. Still farther south, on the edge of this megalomaniac city, is Xochimilco,
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which maintain many ties to its preColumbian past. With more than 304 kilometers (189 miles) of canals lined by cypress trees, seven major lagoons, and floating gardens, flower markets, and hundreds of festivals each year, Xochimilco remains one of the most visited districts in the city. To the north, there are many working-class neighborhoods, including the Villa de Guadalupe, home to the national shrine of the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe. Hundreds of thousands of pilgrims from throughout Mexico and as far north as the United States come to the church to pay their respects.
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Mexico City The variety of architectural styles in Mexico City is staggering. The only constant is the height of buildings. Because a large part of the city is built on the soft silt of former lakes, and because of the frequent seismic (earthquake) activity, most buildings only reach a few stories high. Mexico City is not a city of towers. Some buildings, especially in the historic downtown area, continue to sink into the soft silt under their own weight. Moorish, Spanish, Tudor, Greek, Roman, Victorian, neo-classical and neo-gothic influences are seen throughout the city. Housing varies according to social status. According to government figures, about two-and-a-half million people (about 30 percent of the population) live in apartment complexes. About 80 percent of these buildings operate much like condominiums, and most of them were built between 1960 and 1980. In the richer enclaves, it is often impossible, without an invitation, to know what kind of home hides behind the 12-foot walls, which are topped with high-voltage electric security wires. 6
History
People had been living in the Valley of Mexico for many centuries before the arrival of the Aztecs in the thirteenth century and the conquering Spaniards soon after that. The basin had no natural outlet and several lakes formed in the valley, attracting inhabitants to their shores. Not far from present-day Mexico City, more than 100,000 people lived in Teotihuacán, the "Place of the Gods,'' before it was
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inexplicably abandoned around A.D. 750. Many other groups moved in and out of the valley. Several lakeside communities, some with 10,000 to 15,000 residents, flourished in the Valley of Mexico during pre-Columbian times. According to oral history, the Aztecs were a nomadic tribe. Unskilled and barbaric, they were not welcomed by the inhabitants of the Valley of Mexico when they arrived there in the thirteenth century. They were forced to move from one place to another along the western shore of salty Lake Texcoco, and they ate whatever they could find, including mosquito larva, snakes, and other vermin. In time, the Aztecs settled on some swampy islands on the western shores of the lake. According to legend, the Aztec war god Huitzilopochtli led them to this place. They knew they were home after seeing an eagle perched on a cactus devouring a serpent (today, this national emblem is on the Mexican flag). From here, the Aztec city of Tenochtitlán spread over the marshes, swamps, and islands. In 1428, in an alliance with several valley communities, the Aztecs defeated the dominant city of Azcapotzalco. Until then, the Aztecs, known for their viciousness, had served as mercenaries (hired soldiers) for the Tepanecs, the people of Azcapotzalco. To maintain power after their victory, the Aztecs joined a triple alliance with the valley cities of Texcoco and Tlacopan. The three cities exacted tribute (money and goods in exchange for protection) from surrounding communities, but it was Tenochtitlán that rose to become an
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Mexico City
Remains of the Aztec Empire. (Kal Muller; Woodfin Camp)
empire, its grasp extending well beyond the Valley of Mexico. By the time Spanish explorer and soldier Hernán Cortés traveled from Cuba to Tenochtitlán in 1519, the city had grown to more than 100,000 people. It was, in the words of the conquering Spaniards, an amazing city of fertile gardens, canals, and massive temples, more beautiful than any European city. Tenochtitlán was connected to the mainland by three large causeways (bridges) that converged on the ceremonial center, near Emperor Moctezuma II’s palace and the main temple.
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Moctezuma, who believed Cortés was the returning god Quetzalcóatl, welcomed the Spaniards into the city. He was soon their prisoner, however, and died in 1520. The Aztecs then embarked on a futile defense of their city against the Spaniards and their allies, native peoples like the Tlaxcalans, who had been earlier defeated by the Aztecs. Tenochtitlán was heavily damaged during the final battle on August 13, 1521, with Cuauhtémoc, the last of the Aztec kings, leading its defense. Cuauhtémoc, who is now considered a revered national hero, was later tortured and executed. Cortés ordered
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Mexico City the surviving Aztecs out of the city and razed Tenochtitlán. Over its remnants, he began to build a Spanish city he called Mexico. The city was established, and Spain recognized its cabildo (town council) in 1522. The territory became known as New Spain. By the 1530s, Mexico City was given jurisdiction (rule) over other cabildos of New Spain and quickly established itself as the most important city in the Americas. Like that of the Aztecs, the Spaniards’ grasp extended well beyond the Valley of Mexico—only much farther. At one point, Mexico City ruled a territory that extended south to Panama and north to California. By the 1560s, diseases introduced by the Europeans, war, and indentured labor (a contract binding a person to work for another for a given length of time) had decimated Mexico’s native population to one-third of its former size. The wealth taken from New Spain allowed Cortés and those who followed him to build an impressive city. By the eighteenth century, Mexico City’s architecture was renowned, and often compared with the best Europe had to offer. For a period, Mexico City remained by the lakeside. But flooding became a constant problem. After 1629, when several thousand people died in floods, Lake Texcoco and surrounding lakes were drained or filled in. Yet flooding still remained a problem at the turn of the twenty-first century. Mexico gained its independence from Spain in 1821, after a long war.
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The republican constitution of 1824 established Mexico City as the nation's capital. Unrest followed for the next several decades, as different factions fought for control of Mexico. In 1847, during the Mexican-American War, U.S. troops captured Mexico City and forced a peace treaty on the country. By the 1850s, Mexico’s rulers tried to curb the power of the Catholic Church. The city’s convents were destroyed or turned to other uses. Since then, Mexico’s government has maintained an uneasy relationship with the Vatican (the seat of the Roman Catholic Church). Through the turmoil, the only constant was continued growth, with wealth and power growing increasingly more concentrated in Mexico City. Porfirio Díaz, who ruled the nation for more than three decades (1876–1910), developed the city’s infrastructure (the basic facilities on which the growth of a community depends, such as roads, schools, transportation, and communication systems), encouraged foreign investment, and laid the groundwork for industrial development. By the early twentieth century, Mexico City was becoming a modern city, with gas and electric lighting, streetcars, and other modern amenities. Yet, Díaz’s dictatorial, often cruel, regime concentrated land and wealth in the hands of a few people. The majority of the nation languished in poverty. Social injustice led to nationwide revolts, and ultimately the Mexican Revolution (1910–17). The city was not untouched by the revolution. Battles were fought on its streets,
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Mexico City and thousands of displaced villagers sought refuge in the city. During the war, Mexico City was held briefly by the famous revolutionaries Ernesto “Pancho” Villa and Emiliano Zapata. Yet, Mexico City’s national eminence was unaffected by the revolution. The city continued to modernize at a rapid pace. Old palaces and colonial homes were demolished to make way for new roads and modern buildings. By 1924, Avenida Insurgentes, considered today one of the world's longest avenues, was being laid out. By the late 1920s, the Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI) was well on its way to becoming the most powerful political force in the nation. From Mexico City, it would rule the nation as a de facto (existing in fact though not by legal establishment) one-party state for the next 70 years. Under the PRI, political power became more centralized in Mexico City, which continued to benefit at the cost of other regions in the nation. By 1930, Mexico City had grown to one million and continued to prosper after World War II (1939–45). But the strains of rapid growth were beginning to show. In 1968, Mexico City hosted the Summer Olympic Games and two years later the Soccer World Cup. Both events were meant to signal the prosperity of a developing nation, but serious problems had been masked by the PRI's authoritarian regime. In 1968, government troops massacred an unknown number of protesting students at a Mexico City housing complex. Mexican historians believe the massacre eventually unrav-
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eled the PRI’s hold on the nation and led to dramatic political changes by the 1990s. Under relentless growth, Mexico City had lost its charm by the 1970s, when the government could barely keep up with services. The collapse of oil prices starting in 1982 further curtailed public spending (Mexico is the leading producer of crude oil outside of the Persian Gulf; the Mexican government uses the great oil revenue to finance public spending). Mexico City was choking in the smog and pollution. In 1985, a massive earthquake shook the city, killing at least 7,000 people and destroying dozens of buildings. Villagers from the countryside who continued to pour into the city to escape poverty only compounded the city's problems. With no housing available, they took over lands surrounding the city, creating huge shantytowns that extended for many miles. By the mid1990s, the city was suffering through a debilitating crime wave that only seemed to increase each day. In 1997, Cuauhtémoc Cárdenas, a member of the Party of the Democratic Revolution, became the first elected mayor of Mexico City, dealing a major blow to the PRI, which had ruled the city without interruptions since 1928. Cárdenas promised a more democratic government, and his party claimed some victories against crime, pollution, and other major problems. He resigned in 1999 to run for the presidency. Rosario Robles Berlanga, the first woman to hold the mayoral post, promised she
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Mexico City would continue to reverse the city's decline. 7
Government
In July 1997, Cuauhtémoc Cárdenas became the first elected mayor of Mexico City. Before his election, the President of the Republic appointed the mayor. In essence, the federal government controlled the city, historically the center of cultural, political, and economic power of the nation. Today, Chilangos elect the mayor, considered the second most powerful political position in Mexico behind the presidency. Running as a member of the Party of the Democratic Revolution, Cárdenas' victory was a major blow to the Institutional Revolutionary Party, which had governed Mexico since the 1920s. In 1999, Cárdenas resigned his post to run for the presidency in 2000. Rosario Robles Berlanga was appointed to the post, becoming the first woman mayor of the city. Mexico City is made up of 16 districts. Each district is headed by a delegado or district head, appointed by the mayor and confirmed by the Federal District’s Legislative Assembly. Each district is in charge of providing services for its citizens. 8
Public Safety
Crime is one of the most serious problems facing Mexico City, touching the lives of all its citizens, directly and indirectly. Considered one of the least safe cities in the world, Mexico City in
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the 1990s faced a “crime explosion,” in the words of its first elected mayor, Cuauhtémoc Cárdenas. While crime grew by 46 percent between 1960 and 1994, it grew by 59 percent between 1994 and 1997, when about 700 crimes were reported daily. The Cárdenas administration was overwhelmed by the crime wave and embarrassed by its inability to end it. Yet, the government claimed some success by mid-1999. The number of daily crimes reported each day dropped to less than 700 for the first time in several years. In the first two months of 1999, more than 50 banks were robbed, but between March and September, only four banks were robbed. Assaults on drivers dropped from 78 per day in 1997 to 45 by 1999, and car theft dropped from 160 in 1997 to 123 by 1999. Yet, house break-ins remained the same, about 25 per day, and assaults on pedestrians increased from 94 per day in 1997 to 132 per day in the first six months of 1999. A serious problem for the city is the discredited and highly distrusted police department. The mordida (bribe) that Mexican citizens are often forced to pay when confronted by police is the most enduring symbol of corruption. Police officers in the 1990s have been accused of murder, rape, kidnapping, and many other offenses. “The fight against crime has encountered resistance within the police forces themselves,” Cardenas told the Associated Press in September 1999.
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Mexico City The city administration slowly has been trying to reform the police department, retiring and firing many officers. In 1998, the city hired 4,200 new recruits and sought the assistance of French police and university professors to train them. On average, police officers earn $350 per month, but the city has doubled the salary and improved benefits for retrained officers. In August 1999, the city’s police chief ordered 900 traffic officers, all of them men, to stop writing tickets. He said women officers would take over ticket-writing duties because they were less likely to be corrupted. Crime has led to the creation of many private security forces, and it is not rare to see wealthier Mexicans accompanied by bodyguards. The government estimates there are 534 private security companies with 17,500 employees. 9
Economy
Mexico City remains the economic engine of the country even though some industries have been encouraged to move to other areas to reduce pollution and curb growth. Yet more than half of the country's industrial output is still produced in the city. Important industrial activities include textiles, chemicals, furniture, plastics and metals, electronics assembly, and the production of pharmaceutical products. The food and beverage industry remains a major employer while tourism brings millions of dollars into the economy.
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The informal economy plays an important role in the city. Each day, thousands of unlicensed vendors take to the streets, selling everything from windshield wipers and umbrellas to electrical sockets, tacos, and soft drinks. These are people who would be otherwise unemployed, but they present a different challenge to city officials. For years, the city has tried unsuccessfully to clear the vendors off streets in the downtown area. Business owners complain that street vendors are not subject to taxes, do not pay rent, and compete unfairly by selling similar and often cheaper products. 10
Environment
Mexico City’s air pollution sent more than one million people to hospitals in 1999. Despite planting ten million trees, forcing gasoline stations to sell unleaded fuel and install vapor capture systems, and introducing alternative fuels for government vehicles, air pollution remains one of the most daunting environmental issues facing Mexico City. More than three million vehicles on the road each day are mostly to blame, but so are industries and small factories, deforestation, and fires. Over the years, the city has tried or considered drastic measures to clear the air. Among the wildest ideas that have been proposed include blowing up surrounding hills to increase air circulation and installing large fans to blow smog out of the valley. Most recently, some
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Mexico City have proposed creating thousands of rooftop gardens throughout the city. The city also has tried some traditional approaches. To curtail smog, it prohibited driving on certain days, keeping vehicles off the road depending on the last number of their license plates. But the wealthier circumvented the law by buying a second, sometimes even a third car with a different license plate number. Garbage and water also remain critical problems. The city’s 17,000 sanitation workers and a fleet of more than 2,000 trucks collect 11,850 tons of trash per day. Mexico City, which has some of the world’s highest rates of water consumption in the world, suffers chronic water shortages. Each day, it needs 35,000 liters (9,259 gallons) of water per second for its inhabitants. About 30 percent of the city’s drinking water is brought from a location 127 kilometers (79 miles) away and then pumped 1,000 meters (0.62 miles) uphill. About 67 percent of the city's water comes from underground sources, with about 588 wells in operation. 11
Shopping
The Mexican shopping experience begins at the tianguis, large open markets that predate the arrival of the Spaniards in the New World. One of the great tianguis, a word that is still used today, was located in Tlatelolco during the Aztec reign, when thousands of people would gather at an outdoor market each day to buy, sell, and trade
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Open markets are a part of the Mexican shopping tradition. Consumers buy fresh fruit, vegetables, and meat daily at the Plaza of Three Cultures. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
thousands of artifacts, vegetables, flowers, and animals. The open market has kept its place in Mexican culture, but shopping has expanded into sophisticated and chic shopping malls, much like those found in the United States. During colonial times, the downtown area was the most important commercial center in the city. But in modern times, the mall and regional shopping centers dislodged the Centro Historico (the historic center) as the place to shop. Mexico City is renowned for shopping. Visitors can choose from street markets to sophisticated shopping centers, like Santa Fe in the northwestern part of the city. Arts and crafts
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Mexico City from throughout Mexico are found in the city. Jewelry, shoes, and other leather goods are important elements in the retail industry. 12
Education
The city has the highest literacy rate in the country, estimated at more than 90 percent. Students are required to attend six years of primary school and three years of secondary school. Students who want to go on to college are required to attend three years of bachillerato (college prep courses). During the 1997–98 school year, there were almost three million students and 168,442 teachers in the city’s 9,460 schools. Mexico City is home to some of the nation’s most important universities, including the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM), founded in 1551. More than 350,000 students are enrolled at the sprawling university. Some of Latin America’s most influential intellectuals have taught and attended classes at the prestigious Colegio de Mexico. Among other respected institutions are the National Polytechnic Institute and the Metropolitan Autonomous University. The IberoAmerican University, Anáhuac University, and the United States International University are private institutions. 13
Health Care
Mexico City has a large number of public and private hospitals, including the oldest hospital in the Western Hemisphere. Cortés founded the Jesus
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of Nazareth Hospital early in the sixteenth century. The city has 66 general hospitals, 47 specialized hospitals, more than 7,000 clinics, 542 surgical rooms, 286 clinical analysis laboratories, and more than 18,000 hospital beds. Many health facilities are operated by the government and provide basic health care for the city’s poor. While the city has improved sanitary standards, the population faces daunting problems. In the first six months of 1999, the city reported 1.1 million cases of respiratory problems caused by air pollution. That marked a 37 percent decrease for the same time period in 1998 when 1.7 million cases were reported. Diarrhea also was down by 49 percent. In 1998, 489,000 cases were reported compared to 252,000 for the same period in 1999. 14
Media
Mexico City, along with Buenos Aires, Argentina, is one of the most important book-publishing centers in Latin America, with more than 30 publishing houses. Mexico City also remains one of the top exporters of Spanish-language television programming in the Americas. Televisa, one of the largest communications conglomerates in the developing world, produces more than 20,000 hours of programming each year. Television Azteca is a competing but much smaller company. More than 30 daily newspapers, including an English-language daily, weekly newspapers, and dozens of magazines
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Mexico City are published in Mexico City. More than a dozen foreign bureaus are located in Mexico City. 15
Sports
Mexico City has a long history in sports. The city was host to the Summer Olympic Games in 1968 and the Soccer World Cup in 1970 and 1986 and has played host to many other sporting events. Estadio Azteca, one of the world's largest soccer stadiums, seats more than 100,000 people. Today, the public uses many of the former Olympics venues for other sporting events. More than 200,000 people each month visit the city’s 11 major sports installations. Many of these facilities have deteriorated, and the city plans to fix them. 16
Parks and Recreation
Chilangos prize open spaces. The city’s parks and plazas are always crowded, often overused. On weekends, it is often hard to find a quiet corner in any park, garden, or city plaza. One of the city’s most treasured open spaces is Chapultepec Park, which at 1,600 acres is the largest wooded area in the city. Chapultepec, which in the Nahuatl language means “Hill of the Grasshopper,” also is important historically. Aztec emperors used the park for hunting and recreation. Tenochtitlan also got its drinking water from the park. During colonial times, the Spanish built many buildings at Chapulte-
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Mexico City is among the most important cultural centers in Latin America. Here, the Ballet Folklorico performs at the Palace of Fine Arts. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
pec, including a mansion that became Mexico’s military academy. United States troops attacked and captured the school, known as Chapultepec Castle, during the final battle of the MexicanAmerican War, on September 13, 1847. Today, Chapultepec is home to some of the city’s finest museums. Many other large parks dot the city, including the Alameda Central near the Zocalo. Created in 1592, the Alameda
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Mexico City was an exclusive area reserved for the well-to-do. In time, the park was opened to everyone. Today, the Alameda is known for strolling couples who hold hands during romantic interludes. Viveros, a large park in Coyoacan, is popular with runners and walkers who come to do laps among the large trees. The Desert of the Lions (“El Desierto de los Leones”), southwest of the city, is known for its large open spaces, mountains, forests, and springs. 17
Performing Arts
Mexico City is one of the most important cultural centers in Latin America, attracting talent from throughout the Spanish-speaking world. The Palace of Fine Arts, a concert and opera hall in the historic downtown area, is the hub of Mexico’s cultural activity. The stunning building regularly plays host to ballets, concerts, and plays. Its galleries feature artists from throughout the world. Within its walls, there are stunning murals by Diego Rivera, David Alfaro Siqueiros, and José Clemente Orozco. The city has many theater groups and dance companies. Mexicans come to the city to study at its fine art, music, and dance schools. The National Center of the Arts opened in 1994. It contains a library and concert hall, and offers classes in cinema, dance, music, and drama.
National Museum of Anthropology in Chapultepec Park, considered the world’s finest in its specialty. The park also houses the Museum of Modern Art, the Rufino Tamayo Museum, the Papalote Children’s Museum, and the museums of natural history and technology. Coyoacan has the Frida Kahlo Museum while Xochimilco is home to the Dolores Olmedo Museum, which has important works by Kahlo and Diego Rivera. Many museums are free on Sundays. The city is also home to the National Library. 19
Mexico is among the top ten nations in the world in tourism, with about 19 million visitors in 1999. According to government figures, Mexico City was visited by nearly eight million people in 1998, with nearly two million from outside Mexico. Nearly 60 percent of visitors are from the United States and Canada, about 21 percent from Europe and eight percent from South America. Even the most tireless travelers would need days just to see the city’s most important sights. The city has world-class museums, hotels, shops and restaurants, and a history that expands for hundreds of years. There are more than 44,000 rooms in 589 hotels. 20
18
Libraries and Museums
Dozens of public and private museums dot Mexico City, including the
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To u r i s m
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY
New Year’s Day
FEBRUARY Constitution Day
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Mexico City
Mexicans celebrate the Day of Our Lady of Guadeloupe, the most religious holiday in Mexico. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
MARCH Birthday of Benito Juárez
MAY Labor Day Battle of Puebla Mother’s Day
SEPTEMBER Independence Day
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Famous Citizens
Octavio Paz (1914–98), writer, the first Mexican to win the Nobel Prize in literature, and career diplomat, serving in France, Switzerland, Japan, and India. Frida Kahlo (1907–1954), painter.
OCTOBER Dia de la Raza (Columbus Day)
NOVEMBER All Saints' Day All Souls' Day Revolution Day
DECEMBER Day of Our Lady of Guadalupe
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Because Mexico City has been the center of national culture, the country’s most important writers, painters, and musicians have left their stamp on the city. Some came to study and later to teach and work. Artists like Diego Rivera (1883–1957 husband to Frida Kahlo)
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Mexico City and fellow muralists David Alfaro Siqueiros (1898–1974) and Jose Clemente Orozco (1883–1949), executed many of their murals and paintings in Mexico City. 22
For Further Study
Websites Official government of Mexico City. [Online] Available http://www.df.gob.mx (accessed June 28, 2000). Mexican Ministry of Tourism. [Online] Available http://www.mexico.travel.com (accessed January 20, 2000).
Government Offices Mexican consulates in the United States: 540 North LaSalle Street Chicago, IL, 60611 312-670-0240 8 East 41st Street New York, NY. 10017 212-689-0456 125 Paseo de la Plaza Los Angeles, CA 90012 213-624-3261
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Mexican Government Tourism Office(s): 405 Park Avenue, Suite 1401 New York, New York 10022 1-800-446-3942. 10100 Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 224 Los Angeles, CA 90067 213-203-8151
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Books Arrom, Silvia Marina. Women of Mexico City. Stanford: Stanford University Press, 1985. Bernal, Ignacio. Tenochtitlan. Garden City, NY: Anchor Books, 1975. Broda, Johanna. The Great Temple of Tenochtitlan: Center and Periphery in the Aztec World. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1988. Carrasco, David. Daily Life of the Aztecs: People of the Sun and Earth. Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 1998. Cassaro, Michael A. and Enrique Martinez, eds. The Mexico City Earthquake, 1985. New York: American Society of Civil Engineers, 1990. Cope, R. Douglas. The Limits of Racial Domination: Plebeian Society in Colonial Mexico City: 1660–1720. Madison: University of Wisconsin Press, 1994. Cory, Steve and Ray Webb (illustrator). Daily Life in Ancient and Modern Mexico City. Chicago: Lerner Publishing Group, 1999. Cross, John C. Informal Politics: Street Vendors and the State in Mexico City. Stanford: Stanford University Press, 1999. Davis, Diane. Urban Leviathan: Mexico City in the 20th Century. Philadelphia: Temple University Press, 1994. Gutmann, Matthew C. The Meanings of Macho: Being a Man in Mexico City. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1996. Johns, Michael. The City of Mexico in the Age of Diaz. Austin: University of Texas Press, 1997. Levitt, Helen. Mexico City. New York: Center for Documentary Studies, W.W. Norton, 1997. Poniatowska, Elena, Arthur Schmidt, & Aurora de Camacho Schmidt. Nothing, Nobody: The Voices of the Mexico City Earthquake. Philadelphia: Temple University Press, 1995. Poniatowska, Elena and Kent Klich (photographer). El Niño: Children of the Streets, Mexico City. New York: Syracuse University Press, 1999. Sabloff, Jeremy A. The Cities of Ancient Mexico: Reconstructing a Lost World. New York: Thames and Hudson, 1997.
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Miami Miami, Florida, United States of America, North America Founded: 1836; Incorporated: 1896 Location: East coast of South Florida, United States, North America Time Zone: 7 AM Eastern Standard Time (EST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: White, 71.8%; Black, 27.4%; American Indian, 0.2%; Asian 0.6%; Hispanics, 62.5% (may be of any race) Elevation: 3.4 m (11 ft) Latitude and Longitude: 25º83'N, 80º27'W Coastline: 135 km (84 mi) Climate: Semitropical climate with a warm summer and a dry winter, and high humidity. Second most humid city in the U.S. Annual Mean Temperature: 24ºC (76ºF); January 20ºC (68ºF); July 28ºC (82ºF) Average Annual Precipitation: 142 cm (56 in) Government: Mayor-commission Weights and Measures: Standard U.S. Monetary Units: Standard U.S. Telephone Area Codes: 305 Postal Codes: 33101–33299
1
Introduction
Located nearly at the southeasternmost point of the continental United States, the city of Miami, which celebrated its one-hundredth birthday in 1996, conjures images of sunny beaches, tourists, and immigrants, and it is also a major center for international trade. Since Fidel Castro came to power in Cuba at the end of the 1950s, successive waves of Cuban immigrants have dramatically changed the ethnic composition of the city, which is now over 50 percent Hispanic, and informally known as “the capital of Latin America.” Miami today is a colorful, cosmopolitan city, reveling in its ethnic
diversity. Its sunny climate and natural beauty continue to make it a prime tourist destination, even as it struggles to contain crime and other urban problems resulting from large-scale flight to suburban areas. 2
Getting There
Miami is located in South Florida. Situated on the Atlantic coast bordering Key Biscayne Bay, it is also located at the mouth of the Miami River. Highways Miami can be accessed by highways running both north-south (I-95, the Palmetto Expressway, the Florida
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Miami Turnpike) and east-west (the Airport Expressway, the Dolphin Expressway, and the Tamiami Trail). Also running east-west are the Miami Beach, Bal Harbor, Sunny Isles, and William Lehman Causeways. Bus and Railroad Service Greyhound and Trailways provide service to Miami from points across the United States. Amtrak offers trains with sleeping berths and restaurant cars. Airports Miami International Airport is second nationally in the number of international passengers transported every year. Over 85 scheduled carriers offer flights to and from the city. In 1997 the airport served 34 million passengers, 19 million domestic and 15.5 international. About 70 percent of all passengers arriving in the United States from Central and South America come through Miami’s airport. Shipping Miami International Airport leads the nation in transport of international cargo and is the world’s third-busiest airport in terms of total freight tonnage. In 1997, it handled 1.7 million metric tons (1.9 million tons) of cargo. Nearly 278,700 square meters (three million square feet) of new cargo handling space will be added to the facility by 2006 as part of a $4 billion major improvement plan. Miami’s Dante B. Fascell Port handled nearly 6.4 million metric tons
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Miami Population Profile City Proper Population: 365,498 Area: 88 sq km (34 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 71.8% white; 27.4% black; 0.2% American Indians; 0.6% Asians; 62.5% Hispanic (may be any race) Nicknames: Gateway of the Americas, Cruise Capital of the World
Metropolitan Area Population: 2,210,000 Description: Includes Miami and the surrounding region Area: 5,037 sq km (1,945 sq mi) World population rank1: 143 Percentage of national population2: 0.8% Average yearly growth rate: 1.2% Ethnic composition: 77% white; 21.1% black; 1.8% Asian; 54.4% Hispanic (may be any race) ——— 1. The Miami metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the United States’ total population living in the Miami metropolitan area.
(seven million tons) of cargo in 1997. The port employs 45,000 people, generating $8.3 billion in revenue annually. 3
Getting Around
Greater Miami extends along the coast of Biscayne Bay. The major avenue in the city is Biscayne Boulevard, a four-lane road that borders the city’s oceanfront parkland to the east (Bicentennial Park and Bayfront Park). The downtown streets are laid out in a grid pattern, with the Dolphin Expressway and the North-South Expressway forming major arteries through the city. To
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Miami
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Miami
City Fact Comparison Miami (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
2,210,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1836
753 BC
723 BC
$172
$129
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$82
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$40
$56
$59
$62
$2
$14
$15
$16
$124
$173
$246
$207
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.) Total daily costs (hotel, meals, incidentals)
$193
Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
2
13
20
11
The Miami Herald
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
349,114
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1910
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
the east a number of bridges, called causeways, connect the mainland with Miami Beach, Virginia Key, and Key Biscayne. Bus and Commuter Rail Service A 7.1-kilometer (4.4-mile) elevated rail service, Metrorail, carries passengers around downtown Miami, while Greater Miami is served by the 34-kilometer (21-mile) Metromover system. In addition, the Metrorail line connects with Tri-Rail, which serves Miami-Dade, Palm Beach, and Broward counties over a 108-kilometer (67-mile) route. Miami’s Metrobus service is used by about 200,000 passengers every day.
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Sightseeing Various walking tours are offered, including tours of a variety of neighborhoods and an architectural tour of the Art Deco District. There are also boat tours and aerial tours by helicopter and hot-air balloon. Miami is known as the “Cruise Capital of the World.” Its port is home to ocean liners operated by Cunard Lines (including the Queen Elizabeth II), Carnival Cruise Lines, Royal Caribbean, Norwegian Cruise Lines, and Premier Cruises. Cruise ships launched from Miami dock at ports in the Caribbean,
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Miami Mexico, Central America, and South America. 4
People
In 1995 Miami had an estimated population of 365,498, up from 358,548 recorded in the 1990 census. In 1990, blacks accounted for 27.4 percent of the population, Asians 0.6 percent, and American Indians 0.2 percent. Hispanics (who may be of any race) made up 62.5 percent of the population. The Miami Metropolitan Area had an estimated population of 2,210,000 in 1998, up from 1,937,194 in 1990. Its population was 77 percent white, 21.1 percent black, and 1.8 percent Asian. Hispanics (counted as an ethnicity, not as a race) accounted for 54.4 percent of the population. 5
Neighborhoods
Downtown Miami is an area of great cultural diversity, where one can often hear Spanish, English, Hebrew, and other languages spoken. The heart of downtown is the intersection of Miami Avenue and Flagler Street. A dozen or so blocks along Flagler make up the city’s shopping and theater district. After undergoing a period of blight and neglect, Miami Beach, a sand bar in the Atlantic Ocean about five kilometers (three miles) east of the mainland, is enjoying a renaissance, both among Florida natives and tourists. The trendiest spot is South Beach (nickname: SoBe), renowned for its colorful Art Deco buildings. New nightclubs, hotels,
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restaurants, cafés, galleries, and stores have opened in this area that used to be known primarily as a mecca for Jewish retirees from northern states, drawing an eclectic mix of urban yuppies, artists, and vacationers. The pedestrianonly thoroughfare Lincoln Road, occupying 11 blocks in the heart of South Beach, is a popular center for culture, nightlife, and shopping. Here one may view contemporary art by the area’s upand-coming painters, hear a bookstore poetry reading, or peer through the windows of the Miami City Ballet’s rehearsal studio to see its dancers at work. Surrounding the central city are suburbs including Little Havana, the Bohemian-flavored Coconut Grove, West Miami, North and South Miami, and Coral Gables. 6
History
The name “Miami” means “Big Water” in the language of the Calusa Indians, the major Native American tribe inhabiting the region when the Spanish arrived there in the sixteenth century. Although the Spanish never really succeeded in the settling the region, the Calusa had been wiped out by the early eighteenth century, from their lack of resistance to the diseases the Europeans brought with them, and the Creeks and Seminoles became the dominant tribes. The British gained control of Florida in 1763, during the French and Indian War, but the Spanish won it back 20 years later, only to lose it
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Miami
Miami skyline. (Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp)
again in 1821, ceding the territory to the United States. Hostility by the Seminoles slowed settlement in the region until their banishment to the Everglades in 1842 and even afterward. As northern Florida prospered, the south remained sparsely inhabited and undeveloped. The area of present-day Miami, at the mouth of the Miami River, was part of a tract of land belonging to a plantation owner and also the site of Fort Dallas, which became a permanent outpost of the U.S. army in 1849. Following the Civil War (1861–65) two entrepreneurs, William Brickell and J.W. Ewan bought the land
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and established a trading post that eventually grew into a commercial center. However, development of Miami began in earnest when the wealthy widow Julia Sturdivant Tuttle bought a large tract of land in the area and convinced Henry Flagler to extend his Florida East Coast Railroad there. The railway construction was completed in 1896, and Miami was incorporated in the same year. Another major advance in transportation—expanded highway access—brought the city a building boom in the 1920s, when its population jumped from 30,000 to 200,000
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Miami people within five years. The boom ended with a devastating hurricane in 1926, but the infrastructure put in place in the preceding years had laid the groundwork for future development. Industrialization and military bases came to the city during World War II (1939–45), leading to another population boom, and Miami has grown steadily ever since. The face of the city was changed forever when Fidel Castro (b. 1927) came to power in Cuba in 1959, and over 150,000 Cubans flocked to Miami over the following decade. Today it is a bilingual city and the only major city in the United States with a majority Hispanic population. In the 1990s, Hurricane Andrew, rising crime, and inter-ethnic tensions led to the exodus of some 100,000 non-Hispanic whites from Greater Miami, leaving the city struggling with growing social and fiscal problems. 7
Government
Miami is the seat of Dade County. The Miami-Dade County Government, whose offices are headquartered in downtown Miami, is headed by a strong “executive” mayor, a country manager, and a county commission, and has a budget of $4 billion. County commissioners are elected by district. Each of the 29 municipalities in the county also has its own government. The city employs approximately 3,500 persons.
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Public Safety
A well-known negative aspect of Miami is the city’s reputation as the nation’s crime capital. Home to movie stars, multinational corporations, and a culturally and ethnically diverse population, Miami, in the eyes of the public, is also linked to drug lords and highprofile killings, such as the murders of nine foreign tourists in Florida from October 5, 1992, to September 14, 1993—five of which took place in Miami. In 1997, the city made headlines with the murder of clothing designer Gianni Versace. In 1995, the city’s crime index per 100,000 residents was 15,623.7, the highest in the nation. Violent crimes reported to police totaled 3,413.3 (murder, 29.0; rape, 52.3; robbery, 1,498.7; aggravated assault, 1,833.3). Property crimes totaled 12,210.3 (burglary, 2,607.2; larceny/theft, 7,271.1; motor vehicle theft, 2,332.1). 9
Economy
Miami has a highly diversified economy with over 170 multinational companies headquartered in the city and its environs. Top economic sectors include tourism, services, trade, manufacturing, real estate, and construction. Major employers include the MiamiDade County school district, county, federal, and state governments, University of Miami/Jackson Memorial Medical Center, and Bell South. The Miami Customs District reported $47 billion in imports and
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Miami
Miami’s beaches attract nearly 10 million visitors annually. Tourism contributes billions of dollars in revenue to the economy of Miami. (Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp)
exports for 1997, mostly from trade with Latin America. The 19-hectare (47acre) Miami Free Zone, established in 1978, was the world’s first privately owned and operated foreign trade zone. It consists of a 78,593-square-meter (846,000-square-foot) warehouse and office complex near Miami International Airport. Hurricane Andrew in 1992 was followed by a building boom, and the construction industry remains active, with rising demand for single-family homes and condominiums. In 1997, sales of single-family homes totaled $1.9 billion; sales of condominium units
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totaled $558 million. Top industries in the manufacturing sector are apparel, metal fabrication, printing, and medical products, and the biomedical sector is showing rapid growth. The film and entertainment industry is another major generator of income for Miami. Together, movies, television, and commercial and fashion photography generated more than $212 million in income in the area. Recent movies filmed in the Greater Miami area include Donnie Brasco, Speed II, Out of Sight, and There’s Something About Mary.
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Miami Miami’s access to Latin America has made it a top international banking and investment center, with most bank offices located in the city’s financial district along Brickell Avenue. Today it is home to the international trade divisions of a number of major U.S. banks. The city’s financial institutions have won important business in connection with economic development and privatization in Latin American countries. Agriculture remains an important part of the Greater Miami economy. The region is the nation’s leading supplier of vegetables during the winter season. As the only subtropical farming area in the continental United States, it is a leader in the production of tropical fruits and vegetables, with crops valued at $81 million annually. The Miami area also supplies one-fourth of all ornamental plants sold in the country. 10
Environment
Miami, located only two degrees above the Tropic of Cancer, is a subtropical city located on flatlands that were once home to pine and palmetto trees. Its coastal area consists of sandy beaches, and even the region’s interior is only thinly wooded. Lake Okeechobee, 145 kilometers (90 miles) north of the city, is linked to Miami by manmade canals. During the wet season, Greater Miami must contend with problems caused by tropical storms and hurricanes. Among the worst is sanitary sewer overflow, exacerbated by the city’s low terrain: its highest elevation is
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only 12 meters (40 feet) above sea level, and the groundwater table is only one to two meters (three to six feet) below the earth’s surface. When it rains, water is sucked through the sandy earth and further still into the cracks of some of the sanitary sewer pipes crisscrossing beneath Metropolitan Dade County. When unexpected water makes its way into these pipes, the system becomes overloaded. Downtown flooding in the late 1980s and early 1990s caused raw sewage to spill into the Miami River, prompting Metropolitan Dade County to sign consent decrees with the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) that mandated comprehensive sanitary sewer system rehabilitation. The metropolitan area’s water and sewer department is in the midst of a $1.1 billion sewer upgrade project scheduled for completion by 2002. Pumping station capacities will be expanded; three wastewater treatment plants will be upgraded; and studies of utility operation will be conducted. Dade County’s Department of Solid Waste Management collects waste from more than 260,000 residential addresses, disposing of approximately 2.1 million metric tons (2.3 million tons) annually. Its disposal system consists of one resources recovery facility and associated ash monofill, two landfills, and three regional transfer stations.
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Miami 11
Shopping
Miami and its suburbs offer abundant and varied shopping. The downtown shopping district centered around Flagler Street and South Miami Avenue is one of the busiest shopping areas, with some 1,500 retail outlets, including the second-largest jewelry district in the country. The Omni International Hotel has a two-level shopping plaza with a multiplex movie theater. Bayside Marketplace on Biscayne Boulevard is an open-air waterfront arcade modeled on Boston’s Quincy Market, with dozens of shops as well as restaurants and entertainment facilities. Picturesque CocoWalk in Coconut Grove offers major retail stores, specialty shops, and cafes, all in a setting that has the feel of an Old World village. A variety of ethnic stores in Little Havana offer specialty products, and the Falls, an upscale shopping center anchored by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s, features manmade waterfalls, footbridges, and covered walkways. In South Beach, Lincoln Road, the nation’s first pedestrianonly shopping street, offers a colorful mix of culture, cuisine, and shopping. Miami’s Design District offers dozens of showrooms for interior decorators. 12
Education
The Miami-Dade County school district enrolls more than 340,000 students, making it the fourth largest in the country. About one quarter of its students are foreign-born and speak 62 different languages. Among the educational innovations instituted by the
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school system are 66 magnet school programs, charter schools, satellite learning centers housed in private businesses, and the New World School of the Arts for high school and college students. A new type of school, the Elemiddle School serving grades K through eight, was introduced in 1998, with the goal of replacing large middle schools with smaller community-based units. Students in the Greater Miami area also have the choice of attending over 445 private schools, which enroll more than 45,000 students. With more than 50,000 students, Miami-Dade Community College (MDCC) is the nation’s largest single-district multi-campus community college. This two-year school, which operates six campuses, leads the nation in number of degrees awarded to minority students. Florida International University, a four-year state university, has two campuses and enrolls over 30,000 students. The 72-year-old University of Miami is a private research university with an enrollment of 14,000 and respected programs in law, engineering, medicine, and business, and is noted for its Rosenstiel School of Marine and Atmospheric Sciences and Jackson/UM Medical Center. Other four-year institutions include Nova Southeastern University, home of Florida’s first dentistry school; Barry and St. Thomas universities, which are both Catholic-affiliated; Baptist-run Florida Memorial College; and Johnson & Wales University, a degreegranting college that prepares students to enter the hospitality and restaurant
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Miami fields. Johnson & Wales runs an oncampus restaurant and two off-campus eateries staffed by its students.
biomedical corridor to further enhance the presence of this sector in the region. 14
13
Health Care
Miami is the home of the nation’s second-largest public hospital, the University of Miami/Jackson Memorial Medical Center, which forms the core of a major medical complex located near the city’s downtown. The complex also houses the highly respected Bascom-Palmer Eye Institute and the Sylvester Comprehensive Cancer Center. Miami-Dade County has a total of 28 hospitals and 33,000 licensed health-care personnel, the most of any region in Florida. Hospital facilities were reported to have had a combined revenue of $120 million in 1997 and to have treated some 15,000 patients from Florida and around the world. In addition to direct patient services, the Miami area is home to a substantial biomedical industry that produces pharmaceuticals and medical devices and conducts important research and development projects, such as those that led to the development of ultrasonic diagnostic equipment and artificial kidneys. Biomedical companies located in the region include Cordis/Johnson & Johnson, Beckman-Coulter, and Kos Pharmaceuticals. In 1998 the Miami-Dade County commissioners set aside an 11.7-squarekilometer (four-and-a-half-square-mile) area for the development of a proposed
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Media
Miami’s major daily newspaper is the Miami Herald, published in the morning and on Sundays (circulation: weekdays, 349,114; Sundays, 461,201). The city has two Spanish-language daily papers, El Nuevo Herald (published by the Herald for Spanish speakers) and Diario las Americas (circulation, 68,011). Miami also has a daily business newspaper, the Daily Business Review. The newspaper of the black community is The Miami Times, and New Times of Miami is an alternative paper focusing on news and the arts. Spanish-language magazines published in Miami include Hombre Internacional, TV y Novelas (a soapopera fanzine), and a Spanish-language edition of Harper’s Bazaar. Miami has television stations affiliated with all the major commercial networks, as well as two public broadcasting stations and 19 AM and FM radio stations, some of which broadcast exclusively or mostly in Spanish. 15
Sports
Miami is home to several major league sports teams. The National Football League’s Miami Dolphins play at Joe Robbie Stadium. In the National Basketball Association, the Miami Heat plays at the Miami Arena. The National League’s Florida Marlins, who play at Pro Player Stadium, won the 1997 World Series. Miami also has a team in
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Miami
The Miami-Dade County Government is centrally located in downtown Miami. (Gerd Ludwig; Woodfin Camp)
the American Soccer League—the Miami Freedom, whose home matches are usually played at Milander Stadium in nearby Hialeah. A variety of other sports are also played in the Greater Miami area. JaiAlai, a game that originated in the Basque region of Spain and has players chasing balls called pelotas that can travel at speeds of up to 274 kilometers (170 miles) per hour. The South Florida Cricket Association has more than 25 teams. Miami is home to Florida’s largest thoroughbed race track, the Calder Race Course, which offers racing both
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in the summer and winter. Greyhound racing, also popular with Miamians, is sponsored by the Biscayne Kennel Club. The Miami Grand Prix is held in Homestead every February. 16
Parks and Recreation
Miami has 37 parks, covering a total of 1,012 hectares (2,500 acres), and there are some 700 parks and recreation areas found throughout Dade County. Miami’s parks offer facilities for picnicking, hiking, camping, basketball,
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Miami softball, handball, racquetball, as well as 129 kilometers (80 miles) of bike trails. The city also operates ten public swimming pools, 15 public tennis courts, two golf courses, and four marinas, with a capacity of 940 boats. Water sports are the premier recreational attraction in the Miami area and include boating, canoeing, fishing, swimming, scuba and skin diving, windsurfing, and waterskiing. Haulover Park and Biscayne National Park are popular with divers, while Haulover Beach and South Pointe are among the spots favored by surfers. 17
Performing Arts
Miami’s Florida Philharmonic Orchestra is the major symphonic ensemble in South Florida. The region is also home to the Greater Miami Opera, whose productions feature soloists from around the world. Other musical groups include the Miami Chamber Symphony and the New World Symphony, a youth orchestra. Dance is represented by the Miami City Ballet Company, directed by renowned dancer Edward Villella, and the Ballet Flamenco La Rosa. A variety of touring artists also performs at the Gusman Center for the Performing Arts, the Jackie Gleason Theater of the Performing Arts (called TOPA), and the Dade County Auditorium, which is also home to the city’s opera company. The Miami Beach Symphony Orchestra performs at the Jackie Gleason Theater. Regional theater is presented at the Coconut Grove Playhouse, and the
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Florida Shakespeare Theater performs at the Biltmore Hotel. The Miami Light Project offers musical theater, comedy, and dance at a variety of locations. 18
Libraries and Museums
The Miami-Dade Public Library System operates a main branch downtown, as well as 25 neighborhood branches and four regional libraries throughout the area. The downtown library, located in the Metro-Dade Cultural Center, has the largest library collection in the southeastern United States. More than 500,000 patrons annually take advantage of the library special educational programs and exhibitions. Its Porta-kiosk Library in the Metrorail Civic Center Station, opened in 1992, is the world’s first library located in a transit-system facility. The Historical Museum of Southern Florida and the Miami Art Museum of Dade County (together with the MiamiDade Public Library) are housed in the Metro-Dade Cultural Center in downtown Miami. The art museum (formerly the Center for the Fine Arts) features major artworks from around the world, including many traveling exhibits. Other museums in the Miami area include the Miami Museum of Science and Space Transit Planetarium; the Weeks Air Museum, whose exhibits chronicle the history of aviation; the Gold Coast Railroad Museum, where historic railroad cars are on display; the American Police Hall of Fame and Museum; and the Miami Youth
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Miami Museum, which features exhibits for children.
hands-on
A unique facility located in Coconut Grove is the Vizcaya Museum and Gardens. Originally a palatial private residence built in 1916 in Italian Renaissance style, the museum features 34 rooms whose decor ranges from rococo to neoclassic, including a gilded music room and a tapestry-filled dining room. Surrounding the mansion are four hectares (ten acres) of formal gardens overlooking Biscayne Bay. 19
To u r i s m
Tourism is one of the mainstays of Miami’s economy, and it continues to grow steadily. In 1997 the tourist industry generated $11.6 billion in revenue and created full-time employment for 125,000 people. In the same year, nearly ten million people visited Greater Miami, breaking tourism records for the third year in a row. Warm weather, sunshine, abundant beaches, and a wide variety of entertainment are among the elements that draw large numbers to the region. The three most popular districts among visitors to Miami are (in order) South Beach, Bayside Marketplace, and CocoWalk. Miami is surpassed only by New York City and Los Angeles in numbers of foreign visitors, attracting 5.3 million in 1997 from Europe, Canada, and South America. Miami’s major convention facility is the James L. Knight International Center, a complex consisting of the Miami Convention Center, a Hyatt
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Key Biscayne Bay offers fun in the sun, as well as educational opportunities such as the Seaquarium. (Piero Guerrini; Woodfin Camp)
Regency Hotel, and the University of Miami Conference Center. The Convention Center auditorium seats 4,800 people, and the facility also offers lecture halls, meeting rooms, and a 2,601square-meter (28,000-square-foot) hall for exhibits. Giving the city’s convention industry a major boost was the recent completion of the $135 million oceanfront Loews Miami Beach Hotel in 1998, located within walking distance of the convention center. Another new facility, the 422-room Royal Palm Crowne Plaza Resort, was completed in late 1999. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Miccosukee Tribe’s Indian Arts Festival
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Miami National Children’s Theatre Festival Orange Bowl Art Deco Weekend Festival Freddick Bratcher Florida Dance Festival
AUGUST
LATE JANUARY-EARLY FEBRUARY
OCTOBER
Original Miami Beach Antique Show
FEBRUARY Miami Film Festival Miami International Boat Show Bob Marley Festival Coconut Grove Arts Festival
LATE FEBRUARY-EARLY MARCH Doral-Ryder Open
MARCH Taste of the Beach Calle Ocho Festival Carnaval Miami Florida Derby Grand Prix of Miami Italian Renaissance Festival Lipton Tennis Championships
MID-MARCH-EARLY APRIL Dade County Fair & Exposition
APRIL Fairchild Tropical Garden Rain Forest Festival Merrick Festival of Coral Gables
MAY Roots & Culture Festival Subtropics Music Festival Arabian Nights Festival Great Sunrise Balloon Race & Festival
LATE MAY-EARLY JUNE Miami International Home & Garden Show
JUNE Miami/Bahamas Goombay Festival Florida Dance Festival
JULY 4th of July at Bayfront Park Tropical Agricultural Fiesta Colombian Festival International Mango Festival Key Biscayne 4th of July Parade & Fireworks
JULY-EARLY OCTOBER San Francisco Shakespeare Festival
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Miami Reggae Festival
EARLY SEPTEMBER-LATE OCTOBER Festival Miami West Indian Carnival Extravaganza Caribbean Festival Columbus Day Regatta Hispanic Heritage Festival
NOVEMBER Miami Book Fair International Puerto Rican Festival South Florida International Auto Show South Miami Art Festival Feria de Espana
LATE NOVEMBER-EARLY JANUARY Santa’s Enchanted Forest
DECEMBER Big Orange New Year’s Eve Celebration King Mango Strut King Orange Jamboree Parade
LATE DECEMBER-EARLY JANUARY Kwanzaa Celebration
DECEMBER-MID-MAY Metropolitan South Florida Fishing Tournament
21
Famous Citizens
Dave Barry (b. 1947), longtime Miami resident, writes a Pulitzer Prize-winning humor column for the Miami Herald. Polish-born Isaac Bashevis Singer (1904–91), Nobel-Prize winning novelist who maintained a residence in Miami starting in the 1970s. Edna Buchanon (b. 1939), crime reporter and novelist. Carl Hiaasen (b. 1953), author of crime and mystery novels.
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Miami Janet Reno (b. 1938), attorney general of the United States.
Miami, FL 33131 (305) 539-3000
Sidney Poitier (b. 1924), the first black actor to become a major motion picture star.
Publications
Ellen Zwilich (b. 1939), composer and first woman to win the Pulitzer Prize for music. New York-trained dancer Edward Villella (b. 1936), director of the Miami City Ballet Company. 22
For Further Study
Websites Miami City Hall. [Online] Available http:// www.ci.miami.fl.us (accessed October 14, 1999). Miami-Dade County. [Online] Available http:// www.metro.co.dade.fl.us (accessed October 14, 1999). Miami Information Access. [Online] Available http://www.info-access.com/ (accessed October 14, 1999). MiamiSite. [Online] Available http:// www.miamisite.com/ (accessed October 14, 1999).
Government Offices City Hall 3500 Pan American Drive Miami, FL 33133 (305) 250-5400 Mayor’s Office 3500 Pan American Drive Miami, FL 33133 (305) 250-5300 Miami Planning and Development Department 444 SW 2nd Ave. Miami, FL 33130 (305) 416-1400
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Greater Miami Convention and Visitors Bureau 701 Brickell Ave., Suite 2700
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Daily Business Review 1 SE 3rd Ave., Suite 900 Miami, FL 33131 Diario Las Americas 2900 NW 39th St. Miami, FL 33142 Miami Herald 1 Herald Plaza Miami, FL 33132 Miami Metro Magazine 800 Douglas Rd., Suite 500 Coral Gables, FL 33134
Books Allman, T. D. Miami, City of the Future. New York: Atlantic Monthly Press, 1987. Cerwinske, Laura. Miami, Hot and Cool. Photographs by Steven Brooke. New York: C.N. Potter, 1990. Davies, Frank. Kidding Around Miami: What to Do, Where to Go, and How to Have Fun in Miami. Santa Fe, NM: John Muir Publications, 1997. Dunn, Marvin. Black Miami in the Twentieth Century. Gainesville: University Press of Florida, 1997. Grenier, Guillermo, and Alex Stepick III, eds. Miami Now: Immigration, Ethnicity, and Social Change. Gainesville: University Press of Florida, 1992. Harris, Daryl B. The Logic of Black Urban Rebellions: Challenging the Dynamics of White Domination in Miami. Westport, CN: Praeger, 1999. Moore, Deborah Dash. To the Golden Cities: Pursuing the American Jewish Dream in Miami and L.A. New York: Maxwell Macmillan International, 1994. Portes, Alejandro, and Alex Stepick III. City on the Edge: The Transformation of Miami. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1993. Rieff, David. The Exile: Cuba in the Heart of Miami. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1993. Rieff, David. Going to Miami: Exiles, Tourists, and Refugees in the New America. Boston: Little, Brown, 1987.
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Minneapolis Minneapolis, Minnesota, United States of America, North America Founded: 1849; Incorporated: 1866 Location: Eastern Minnesota on the Mississippi River, United States, North America Time Zone: 6 AM Central Standard Time (CST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: White, 81%; Black, 13%; Asian, 4%; Hispanic origin (of any race) 2% (1996) Elevation: 255 m (838 ft) Latitude and Longitude: 44º98'N, 93º26'W Climate: The Twin Cities region has wide fluctuations in temperature, with long, cold, and snowy winters but warm temperatures and low humidity in the summer. Annual Mean Temperature: 7ºC (44.7ºF); January -11ºC (12.2ºF); July 22ºC (72ºF) Seasonal Average Snowfall: 117 cm (46 in) Average Annual Precipitation (rainfall and melted snow): 56 in (142 cm) Government: Mayor-council Weights and Measures: Standard U.S. Monetary Units: Standard U.S. Telephone Area Codes: 612 (Minneapolis & suburbs), 651 (St. Paul & suburbs) Postal Codes: 55401–70
1
Introduction
Located at the confluence of the Mississippi and Minnesota rivers, Minneapolis and St. Paul, Minnesota, once heated rivals, are known today as the Twin Cities and are the nexus of a thriving 11-county metropolitan area. Home to the largest of the four campuses of the University of Minnesota, the area has rich cultural resources and a reputation for civic involvement by ordinary citizens and by its business community. It is home to numerous major corporations, which draw on a well-educated labor pool. In the decades since World War II (1939–45), the region’s popula-
tion has become increasingly a suburban one, but urban redevelopment has kept its central cities vital and safe. 2
Getting There
The Twin Cities are located in eastern Minnesota, at the junction of the Minnesota and Mississippi Rivers, near the Wisconsin border. St. Paul is located roughly eight kilometers (five miles) southeast of Minneapolis, which is the seat of Hennepin County. The Twin Cities Metropolitan Statistical Area comprises ten Minnesota counties, as well as one (St. Croix) in Wisconsin.
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Minneapolis
Minneapolis Population Profile City Proper Population: 358,785 Area: 143 sq km (59 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 81% white; 13% black; 3.3% American Indian; 4.3% Asian Nicknames: Twin Cities (with St. Paul), City of Lakes, Land of 10,000 Lakes
Metropolitan Area Population: 2,792,137 Description: Covers counties in Minnesota and Wisconsin Area: 15,076 sq km (6,064 sq mi) World population rank1: 130 Percentage of national population2: 0.9% Average yearly growth rate: 1.1% Ethnic composition: 91.2% white; 4.4% black; 3.4% Asian/Pacific Islander ——— 1. The Minneapolis metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the United States’ total population living in the Miami metropolitan area.
Highways The Twin Cities region is accessible by I-94, a major east-west route running from coast to coast of the United States, and I-35, bisecting the country north to south from Lake Superior to the Gulf of Mexico. In addition, I-494 and I-694 offer access to the Twin Cities suburban areas. Bus and Railroad Service Amtrak and Greyhound both serve the Twin Cities region. If traveling from the airport, Airport Express is a public
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shuttle van service, providing transportation to hotels in downtown Minneapolis. Airport Express shuttles depart the airport (in front of luggage pick-up area) approximately every half-hour and stop at all of the downtown hotels; likewise, the shuttles depart major hotels approximately every half-hour. Airports In 1998–99, over 30 million passengers passed through the Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport on 491,273 arriving and departing flights. The Airport is located 20 minutes from downtown Minneapolis. The airport, which is served by 13 commercial airlines and is the international headquarters of Northwest Airlines, services a total of over 1,000 arriving and departing flights every day. Direct flights are available to major foreign cities. The Minneapolis-St. Paul Airport is ranked as one of the nation’s safest. Shipping The Twin Cities are among the nation’s major transportation hubs. Some 150 trucking companies serve the region, making it a major trucking center. The Minneapolis-St. Paul ports together handle about ten million metric tons (11 million tons) of cargo annually. Four air cargo carriers and 40 air freight forwarders service the Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport; more than 154 metric tons (170 tons) of freight pass through the airport annually.
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Minneapolis
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Minneapolis 3
Getting Around
The streets of Minneapolis are laid out in two adjacent grid patterns. Streets north of Grant Street follow a northeast-southwest axis, while those to the south are laid out north-south and east-west. With the Mississippi River wending right through its center, St. Paul’s layout is more irregular and broken up by hills and bluffs. Both cities have extensive systems of elevated, covered skywalks connecting virtually all of their major government and commercial buildings. The skywalk systems move much of the cities’ street life to second-story level during the region’s notorious winters, when they provide a climate-controlled haven from biting winds, frigid temperatures, and heavy snowfall. The Minneapolis skywalks can take pedestrians as far as 12 city blocks—from a city-operated parking ramp to the convention center. The Twin Cities area is known for ease of commuting, with traffic flow aided by an efficient freeway system, medium population density, and the fact that commercial and public buildings are spread out over two downtown areas. The legendary politeness of Midwesterners may contribute as well. Bus and Commuter Rail Service Metropolitan Council Transit Operations (MCTO), the nation’s secondlargest bus system, operates more than 900 buses every day in the Twin Cities and the surrounding suburbs, carrying over 60 million passengers annually.
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The Twin Cities are also served by more than 800 taxis. Sightseeing Visitors might want to launch their sightseeing venture with an overview of the city from the observation deck atop the Foshay Tower and catch a glimpse of the Farmers' Market along the Nicollet Mall. The Minneapolis Planetarium is a popular site, as is Underwater World, a 4.5 million-liter (1.2 milliongallon), walk-through aquarium at the Mall of America. The Minnesota Zoo hosts 450 species of animals featured in their natural habitats. For a thrill, visitors can take a ride on the Wild Thing "hyper coaster" at Valleyfair! Family Amusement Park. For a tamer afternoon, there are an abundance of museums in Minneapolis. While many display fine art and history, several host unique exhibits, from medical quackery to children's interactive games. Gray Line sightseeing tours of the Twin Cities area visit Nicollet Mall and other attractions. 4
People
In 1990, the population of Minneapolis was 368,000, of which 81 percent were white; 13 percent were black; 4.3 percent Asian; and 3.3 percent American Indian. Hispanics (both white and black) accounted for 2.1 percent of the population. The 1996 population estimate was 358,785. The population of the St. Paul-Minneapolis Metropolitan Statistical Area was estimated at 2,792,137 as of 1997. The region’s racial composition was listed by the U.S. Cen-
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Minneapolis
City Fact Comparison Minneapolis (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
2,363,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1849
753 BC
723 BC
$172
$129
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$91
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$44
$56
$59
$62
$2
$14
$15
$16
$137
$173
$246
$207
2
13
20
11
Star Tribune
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
334,751
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1867
1944
1976
1948
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.) Total daily costs
$193
Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established 1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
sus Bureau in 1996 as 91.2 percent white; 4.4 percent black; 3.4 percent Asian/Pacific Islander. 5
Neighborhoods
The city of Minneapolis identifies 81 distinct neighborhoods, 11 communities, and four industrial areas within its boundaries. The central historic landmark of Minneapolis is Bridge Square, the spot that marks the founding of the city. The city is located on both the east and west banks of the Mississippi River, with the larger part located west of the river. Nicollet Avenue is home to the major downtown
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shopping district, Nicollet Mall, which is closed to all vehicles except buses and taxis. The city’s financial district is located on Marquette Avenue. The University of Minnesota campus is mostly located on the east bank of the river. The Lake of the Isles area houses an upscale residential neighborhood. Divided between both river banks, between two bridges, is the grain-milling district. Inner-ring suburbs on the west bank of the river include Brooklyn Center, Robbinsdale, Crystal, Golden Valley, St. Louis Park, Edina, and Richfield. Second- and third-tier suburbs include
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Minneapolis
A view of the Minneapolis skyline. (Greater Minneapolis Convention & Visitors Bureau)
Bloomington (home of the Mall of America), Eden Prairie, Chaska, Minnetonka, and Plymouth. The neighborhoods surrounding the University of Minnesota are located in the eastern part of the city. St. Paul is smaller than Minneapolis and preserves more of a traditional “small town” feeling. Its neighborhoods include Summit Hill, Crocus Hill,
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St. Anthony Park, Merriam Park, Macalester-Groveland, and Highland Park. 6
History
The area that today comprises the Twin Cities was home to the Sioux tribe when it was first discovered in the late seventeenth century by Europeans—a French party headed by Father Louis Hennepin (for whom Hennepin County is named) that explored the
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Minneapolis area where the Mississippi and Minnesota rivers meet and named the waterfall at the navigable head of the Mississippi River after St. Anthony. Permanent settlement began after the establishment of Fort St. Anthony by the U.S. military in the early nineteenth century. Settlers began arriving from the East, followed by immigrants from Germany, Sweden, Norway, and Ireland. In 1872 present-day Minneapolis was formed by the merger of cities on the east and west banks of the Mississippi. Fueled by its two major industries—timber and flour milling—and an abundant supply of immigrant labor, the city grew rapidly. Rail line expansion also made it a major transportation center. Both Minneapolis and St. Paul flourished through the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, as their infrastructure grew and civic and cultural institutions sprang up. A rivalry developed between Minneapolis, the state’s most populous city and home of industrial giants such as Cargill and General Mills, and St. Paul, the state capital, venue of the state fair and home to the “gentry” that populated the Summit Hill neighborhood. The 1920s saw a building boom in both cities. However, it stalled during the Depression years of the 1930s when most new construction was sponsored by government relief programs. The area’s reputation for social activism grew during these years, when it became a focal point for the organized labor movement, as well as both the Socialist and Communist parties. The Twin Cities continued to flourish in the
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post-World War II decades, although the area’s economic base shifted from the traditional lumber and milling industries to new areas, including farm machinery and electronics. Suburbs mushroomed in the region, which grew into the nexus of a seven-county metropolitan region, two-thirds of whose current residents are suburbanites. However, the cities themselves remained vigorous through major urban redevelopment efforts, including Minneapolis’s Nicollet Mall and the networks of skywalks in both cities. 7
Government
Minneapolis, the seat of Hennepin County, is divided into 77 local legislative districts and comprises six U.S. congressional districts. Its government is headed by a mayor and a 13-member city council elected to four-year terms of office. 8
Public Safety
In the 1990s the spread of drug trafficking and other types of street crime from such urban centers as Chicago was a concern in the Twin Cities region. However, major development projects and the assignment of more beat cops to the area have kept downtown Minneapolis a busy, safe, and clean area. In 1995, Minneapolis police reported 1,978 violent crimes per 100,000 population, including 27 murders, 162 rapes, and 992 robberies. Property crimes reported numbered 9,567 and included 2,243 burglaries and 1,255 motor vehicle thefts.
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Minneapolis responded to some 23,000 medical emergencies. 9
Nicollet Mall was a part of a major urban redevelopment effort, aided by the Twin Cities’ strong economy. (Greater Minneapolis Convention & Visitors Bureau)
The Minneapolis Police Department serves five precincts with 910 sworn personnel, 165 civilian personnel, and 12 police dogs. It responded to almost 400,000 calls in 1998–99. In 1997 the Minneapolis Fire Department operated 20 stations in four districts, with 73 civilian personnel and 413 sworn firefighters operating 30 fire trucks. In 1998–99, the department answered nearly 11,000 fire alarms and
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Economy
The Twin Cities region has a strong, diversified economy. Thanks to a well-educated work force, average unemployment in the Twin Cities is consistently below the national average, and per capita income is above it. Numerous major corporations are headquartered here, including Cargill, Northwest Airlines, 3M, Honeywell, Weyerhauser, Medtronic, and many more. Reflecting the agricultural legacy of America’s heartland, the food-processing industry was historically the mainstay of the area’s economy and is still represented by General Mills, Land O’Lakes, Pillsbury, International Multifoods, and others. The proximity of the University of Minnesota and other research facilities has helped make the Twin Cities one of the nation’s major high-technology centers, with over 1,300 research-based high-tech firms. The Twin Cities is also an important financial center—the major one in the upper Midwest, with a number of major financial companies, as well as a branch of the Federal Reserve Bank. Service industries and retailing are also important sectors of the region’s economy. Major retailers located in MinneapolisSt. Paul include Dayton Hudson, Target, SUPERVALU, and the Fingerhut catalogue business.
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Minneapolis 10
Environment
There are 22 lakes within the city limits of Minneapolis (thus the nickname “City of Lakes”) and 31 within the Minneapolis-St. Paul city limits (as well as hundreds more in the surrounding suburbs). Of Minneapolis’s total area of 143 square kilometers (59 square miles), almost seven percent is water. In addition to the multitude of lakes, the Mississippi and Minnesota rivers wend their way through the region, which has one of the country’s most extensive networks of parklands. The immediate seven-county area boasts four state parks and 19 wildlife management and/ or refuge areas. In 1998–99, Minneapolis city services recycled 38,516 metric tons (42,456 tons) of materials, including 19,716 metric tons (21,733 tons) of newspapers, cans, and glass. Minneapolis residents use 246 million liters (65 million gallons) of water annually. 11
Shopping
stores is still the main shopping district in downtown Minneapolis, boasting four department stores, numerous specialty stores, and four multilevel malls, including the City Center, Gaviidae Common, and IDS Crystal Court. Major department stores include Dayton’s, Neiman Marcus, and Saks Fifth Avenue. Retail complexes in downtown St. Paul include Galtier Plaza, Town Square, and the World Trade Center. The St. Paul Farmers’ Market, open April through November, features fresh produce, baked goods, cheese, and arts and crafts. The best-known shopping outlet in the Greater Twin Cities area is the Mall of America in the Minneapolis suburb of Bloomington. The country’s most extensive shopping and entertainment complex, this “mega-mall” occupying 390,180 square meters (4.2 million square feet) of space opened in 1992. Offering movies and even amusementpark rides, as well as some 400 shops, restaurants, and entertainment sites, it is also a major tourist attraction, drawing over 40 million visitors a year.
As the home of major retail corporations including Dayton Hudson, Target, and Best Buy, the Twin Cities has a history of innovative retailing. In 1956, the suburb of Edina became the site of the nation’s first enclosed shopping mall, Southdale. Still a commercial success, Southdale today is the anchor of an entire business district and residential complex.
The Twin Cities population is a well-educated one. Of all adults ages 25 and over, 82 percent have a high school diploma (compared with a U.S. average of 75 percent); 28 percent have completed four years of college (versus the national average of 20 percent).
In the 1960s, downtown Nicollet Mall was turned into a pedestrian-only thoroughfare. This 12-block stretch of
With a budget of over $625 million and per-pupil spending of nearly $8,000 annually, the Minneapolis
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Education
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Minneapolis doctoral degrees. In addition to academic excellence, the university is also an important cultural resource in the region. Other institutions of higher learning in the Twin Cities include the Catholic-affiliated College of St. Catherine; Hamline University, Minnesota’s oldest private university; Macalester College in St. Paul, a highly respected liberalarts college; Metropolitan State University a “college without walls” offering classes for adult students at locations throughout the Twin Cities; Minneapolis College of Art & Design (MCAD), one of the nation’s most respected art schools; and William Mitchell College of Law in St. Paul. 13
Gaviidae Common is among the four multi-level malls found in the 12-block stretch of Nicollet Mall, a pedestrian-only thoroughfare. (Greater Minneapolis Convention & Visitors Bureau)
school system employs 8,114 people. In the 1998–99 school year, the system’s 120 schools enrolled a total of 49,388 students. There are also 248 private schools in the Twin Cities area. The Twin Cities campus of the University of Minnesota is ranked among the nation’s top 20 public universities. Located in the heart of the Twin Cities metropolitan area, the university offers bachelor’s degrees in over 150 fields, as well as 200 master’s degrees, and 100
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Health Care
The location of the Mayo Clinic 129 kilometers (80 miles) to the south in Rochester, Minnesota, has long associated the Twin Cities region with excellence in health care. However, its own facilities and medical personnel are also first rate. The area has 37.3 doctors per 100,000 population. Abbot Northwestern Hospital is the Twin Cities’ largest not-for-profit hospital, as well as a major regional medical center. With a staff of 1,300 physicians and 4,500 employees, the hospital provides services to some 180,000 patients annually. Minneapolis has seven hospitals. Operated by Hennepin County, Hennepin County Medical Center (HCMC), located in downtown Minneapolis, anchors the county’s health services
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Minneapolis system, which also includes a physician group practice, a system of community clinics, and a health maintenance organization (HMO), as well as respected teaching and research programs. In 1998, HCMC had a daily average of 360 filled beds; 104,590 day patients; 317,411 clinic visits; and 87,566 emergency services visits. 14
Media
The Twin Cities are served by two daily newspapers. The Star Tribune, based in Minneapolis, publishes separate editions for Minneapolis and St. Paul. With a daily circulation of over 400,000 and about 700,000 on Sundays, the Star Tribune offers home delivery throughout the Twin Cities area. The paper won a Pulitzer Prize in 1990 for investigative reporting. The St. Paul Pioneer Press is delivered only in the eastern part of the Twin Cities region but available throughout the area in vending machines and at newsstands. It is known particularly for the quality of its feature and sport writing and its unique Bulletin Board section. Weekly newspapers available in Minneapolis-St. Paul include the American Jewish World, the Asian American Press, the Asian Pages, the Minnesota Women’s Press, the Minneapolis Spokesman and St. Paul Recorder, both serving the black community, and two alternative news weeklies, City Pages and the Twin Cities Reader. Business publications include Finance and Commerce, Minneapolis St. Paul City Business. Mpls. St. Paul is a locally distributed monthly maga-
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zine. Other magazines of local or regional interest are Corporate Report Minnesota, Minnesota History, Minnesota Monthly, Minnesota Parent, Minnesota Sports, and Minnesota’s Journal of Law and Politics. A popular national magazine produced in the region is the Utne Reader. All the major television networks have affiliated stations in the Twin Cities and several cable firms serve the area, although fewer than 50 percent of households in the area subscribe to cable—one of the lowest rates in the nation. There are over 30 AM and FM radio stations in the region. Operator of 27 stations throughout the Midwest and originator of such programs as the popular “Prairie Home Companion” hosted by Garrison Keillor, Minnesota Public Radio has become a major force in the nation’s public radio programming. Minnesota is also home to the Public Radio International (formerly American Public Radio) network, which offers an alternative (or complement) to the programs produced by National Public Radio in Washington, D.C. 15
Sports
The Twin Cities support major league baseball, football, and basketball teams. The Minnesota Twins (baseball), 1987 and 1991 World Series champions, drew crowds of nearly one-and-a-half million fans in the 1997 season. Since 1982, the Twins have played their home games in the Hubert H. Humphrey Metrodome. (The Mall of America now stands at the site of their
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Minneapolis former home, Met Stadium.) The Metrodome is also home to the NFL’s Minnesota Vikings, who went to the Super Bowl four times between 1969 and 1977. About 700,000 fans annually come to see the Minnesota Timberwolves play basketball at Target Center in downtown Minneapolis, even though the ten-year-old team has yet to deliver a winning season. The University of Minnesota’s sports teams bring the full spectrum of intercollegiate sports to the Twin Cities region and attract a loyal following. Especially popular are men’s basketball, hockey, and football, and women’s basketball. Auto racing can be viewed at Elko Speedway and Raceway Park; horse racing is held at Canterbury Park; and greyhounds race at St. Croix Meadows. Popular participant sports in the Twin Cities include bicycling, bowling, canoeing, fishing, golf, horseback riding, ice skating, roller skating, skiing, and tennis. Minnesota Timberwolves’ Stephon Marbury.
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Parks and Recreation
The Twin Cities are graced with extensive parklands, especially Minneapolis, most of whose 22 lakes are surrounded by public parks. An 88kilometer (55-mile) series of parkways called “Grand Rounds” connects many of the city’s parks. Altogether, Minneapolis has over 170 parks, located on some 2,428 hectares (6,000 acres) of land. Its residents enjoy 120 kilometers (75 miles) of pedestrian, bike, and skate trails. The city’s recreational facilities
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(Courtesy Minnesota Timberwolves)
include 396 baseball diamonds, 183 tennis courts, 85 ice rinks, 11 supervised beaches, 124 public golf courses, eight city courses, and 20 private courses. St. Paul has about 1,416 hectares (3,500 acres) of parkland. 17
Performing Arts
The Twin Cities have a rich array of cultural resources. The Minnesota Orchestra, founded in 1903, has played
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Minneapolis under the batons of such renowned music directors as Eugene Ormandy, Dmitri Metropoulos, and Sir Neville Marriner. The St. Paul Chamber Orchestra is a distinguished full-time ensemble of 37, known for both its live performances and recordings. Other musical groups in the region include the Bach Society of Minnesota; the 150-member Minnesota Chorale; and the Minnesota Opera, which presents classic operas and offers classes in opera. Concerts are sponsored by the Minnesota Composers Forum, Plymouth Music Series, the Schubert Club, and the Twin Cities Jazz Society. Home to the renowned Guthrie Theatre, the Twin Cities have more theaters per capita than any other place in the United States except New York City. Other theater groups include the Children’s Theatre Company, the Great American History Theatre, Illusion Theatre, and In the Heart of the Beat Puppet and Mask Theatre. Dance companies include the Minnesota Dance Theatre; the James Sewell Ballet, showcasing the choreography of its director; and the experimental groups Ballet of the Dolls and the Margolis/ Brown Company. Touring performances of all kinds are staged at many venues in the Twin Cities, including the Fitzgerald Theatre (home of the popular National Public Radio program “A Prairie Home Companion”); the Northrup Auditorium; Orchestra Hall on the Nicollet Mall, home of the Minnesota Orchestra; the Ordway Music Theater; the Orpheum Theatre; the Ted Mann Concert Hall on
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the campus of the University of Minnesota; State Theatre; and Southern Theater. Large audiences for rock concerts and other events are accommodated by the Target Center in Minneapolis and the St. Paul Civic Center. 18
Libraries and Museums
The Minneapolis Public Library operates a central library downtown, 14 neighborhood branches, and one bookmobile. In addition, its Municipal Information Library, housed in City Hall, has two-and-a-half million items, including 2,800 periodical subscriptions; its Central Library has the largest collection in the state. The library system had some 400,000 registered borrowers in 1997, who checked out approximately two-and-a-half million books and other items. The Twin Cities houses several major art collections and more than 50 art galleries. The Minneapolis Institute of Arts houses a collection of over 85,000 art objects, including an excellent Impressionist display and a worldfamous Rembrandt painting, and numerous works by nineteenth- and twentieth-century European and American painters. The Walker Art Center is well known for the quality of its contemporary art collection, as well as its presentation of innovative performance programs. The University of Minnesota’s Frederick R. Weisman Art Museum houses a mostly modern collection in a dramatic contemporary riverfront building designed by architect Frank Gehry.
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Minneapolis The Minnesota History Center in St. Paul displays all things Minnesotan—from the mysteries of grain silo operation to facets of the state’s multicultural past. Also located in St. Paul are the Science Museum of Minnesota and Minnesota Children’s Museum. Specialty museums in Minneapolis include the James Ford Bell Museum of Natural History, the American Swedish Institute, and the Bakken Library and Museum of Electricity in Life.
To u r i s m
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Minneapolis has 18 hotels, with a total of 5,027 rooms. The major convention facility, opened in 1990, is the Minneapolis Convention Center, featuring 26,012 square meters (280,000 square feet) of exhibit space topped by three soaring copper domes, as well as a ballroom with proscenium stage for gala events. The convention center is linked to the city’s eight-kilometer (five-mile) system of walkways that connects with hotels, shops, restaurants, and entertainment venues.
MAY Heart of the Beast May Day Parade & Festival Scottish Country Fair Eagle Creek Rendezvous Main Street Days
JUNE Gay and Lesbian Pride Festival Edina Art Fair Grand Old Day Midsommar Celebration and Scandinavian Art Fair Minnesota Crafts Festival SummerFolk Twin Cities Juneteenth Celebration Civil War Weekend Live in the Zoo Alive After Five Concerts Nicollet Mall Car Classic
JULY Lyn-Lake Street Fair All-Star Festival of the Blues Minneapolis Aquatennial Minnesota Heritage Festival Movies and Music in the Park Rice Street Festival Rondo Days A Taste of Minnesota Twin Cities Ribfest Viennese Sommerfest Grand Prix of Minnesota
AUGUST
JANUARY
Minnesota Renaissance Festival Minnesota State Fair Powderhorn Festival of the Arts Uptown Art Fair Bloomington Jazz Festival Cedarfest
St. Paul Winter Carnival
SEPTEMBER
MARCH
Country Folk Art Show Fall Festival Horse Show Oyster & Guinness Festival
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Holidays and Festivals
St. Patrick’s Day Parades Dayton’s-Bachman’s Flower Show Northwest Sports Show Warehouse District Art Walk
APRIL Festival of Nations Antique Show Easter Egg-Stravaganza International Film Fest
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OCTOBER European Oktoberfest Fall Home & Garden Show Farmers Market on Nicollet Mall Twin Cities Marathon
NOVEMBER Ski Snowmobile & Winter Sports Show
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Minneapolis
The University of Minnesota’s Frederick R. Weisman Art Museum collection includes the sculpture Spoonbridge and Cherry. (Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen, Spoonbridge and Cherry, 1987–88. Aluminum, stainless steel, paint. Collection Walker Art Center. Gift of Frederick R. Weisman in honor of his parents, William and Mary Weisman, 1988.)
DECEMBER Folkways of Christmas Holidazzle Parades International Festival of Trees Holidays at the Zoo New Year’s Eve Fireworks Celebration
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Famous Citizens
The Great Gatsby author F. Scott Fitzgerald (1896–1940). Comedian and political satirist Al Franken (b. 1951). Industrialist and billionaire J. Paul Getty (1892–1976).
U.S. Supreme Court justices Warren Burger (b. 1907) and Harry Blackmun (1908–99).
Senator, Vice President, and Democratic presidential candidate Hubert H. Humphrey (1911–78).
Author Robert Bly (b. 1926).
Radio personality and author Garrison Keillor (b. 1942).
Filmmakers Joel (b. 1954) and Ethan Coen (b. 1957). Aviatrix Amelia Earhart (1897–1937).
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U.S. senator and vice presidential candidate Walter F. Mondale (b. 1928).
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Minneapolis Singer Prince Rogers Nelson (the Artist Formerly Known as Prince) (b. 1958).
33 S. 6th St., Multifoods Tower Minneapolis, MN 55402 (612) 661-4700
Newscaster Harry Reasoner (b. 1923).
Publications
Cartoonist Charles Schulz (1922–2000), creator of the Peanuts comic strip.
Corporate Report Minnesota 105 S. 5th St., Suite 100 Minneapolis, MN 55415
Longtime NAACP director Roy Wilkins (1901–81).
Minneapolis-St. Paul 220 S 6th St., Suite 500 Minneapolis, MN 55402
Author Meridel Le Sueur (1900–96). Journalist Eric Sevareid (1912–92). Actress Lea Thompson (b. 1961). 22
For Further Study
Websites Minneapolis City Net. [Online] Available http:// www.city.net/countries/united_states/ minnesota/minneapolis (accessed October 14, 1999). Minneapolis-St. Paul City Guide. [Online] Available http://www.tgimaps.com/marketplace/ cityguide (accessed October 14, 1999). Twin Cities Global Connection. [Online] Available http://www.tcglobal.com/ (accessed October 14, 1999). Twin Cities Internet Guide & Directory. [Online] Available http://www.tcigd.com/ (accessed October 14, 1999).
Government Offices City Hall 350 South Fifth Street Minneapolis, MN 55415 (612) 673-2491 Mayor’s Office 350 South Fifth Street Minneapolis, MN 55415 (612) 673-2100 Minneapolis Planning Department 350 South Fifth Street Minneapolis, MN 55415 (612) 673-2597
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Greater Minneapolis Convention and Visitors Bureau
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Minneapolis-St. Paul City Business 527 Arquette Ave., Suite 300 Minneapolis, MN 55402 Star Tribune 425 Portland Ave. S Minneapolis, MN 55488
Books Adams, John S., and Barbara J. Van Drasek. Minneapolis-St. Paul: People, Place, and Public Life. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 1993. Arthur, Lindsay G., and Jean Arthur. Twin Cities Uncovered. Plano, TX: Seaside Press, 1996. Borchert, John R., et al. Legacy of Minneapolis:Preservation Amid Change. Bloomington, MN: Voyageur, 1983. DeGroot, Barbara, and Jack El-Hai. The Insiders’ Guide to the Twin Cities. St. Paul, MN: St. Paul Press, 1995. Fairbanks, Evelyn. The Days of Rondo. St. Paul: Minnesota Historical Society Press, 1990. Kunz, Virginia Brainard. St. Paul, A Modern Renaissance. Northridge, CA: Windsor Publications, 1986. Millett, Larry. Twin Cities Then and Now. St. Paul, MN: Minnesota Historical Society Press, 1996. Millett, Larry. Lost Twin Cities. St. Paul: Minnesota Historical Society Press, 1992. Nelson, Rick. Minneapolis/St. Paul. CitySmart Guidebook. Santa Fe, NM: John Muir Publications, 1997. Nyberg, Joan. A Rustling of Wings: An Angelic Guide to the Twin Cities. St. Paul: Wingtip Press, 1994. Smith, Robert Tighe. Minneapolis-St. Paul: The Cities, Their People. Helena, MT: American Geographic, 1988.
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Monrovia Monrovia, Liberia, Africa Founded: 1822 Location: Western coast of Liberia Motto: “The Love of Liberty Brought Us Here” (national motto) Time Zone: Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: 16 major ethnic groups, the most numerous being the Bassa Elevation: 23 m (75 ft) Latitude and Longitude: 6º20’N, 10º46’W Climate: Warm and humid year round; rainy season between May and October Annual Mean Temperature: 27ºC (80ºF); January 26ºC (79ºF); July 24ºC (76ºF) Average Annual Precipitation (total rainfall): 5,200 mm (205 in) Government: Administered directly by the federal government Weights and Measures: Metric system Monetary Units: Liberian dollar Telephone Area Codes: 231 (both the country and city code) Postal Codes: 10 (Downtown Monrovia)
1
Introduction
Named after the fifth U.S. president James Monroe (1758–1831; president 1817–25), Monrovia, the capital of Liberia, welcomed the first freed slaves to arrive from the United States in the 1820s. Located on the country’s Atlantic coast at the mouth of the Mesurado River, it is the seat of the national government and the country’s principal deepwater port. This once bustling city was a major battleground in the civil war that raged in Liberia from 1990 to 1997. Many of Monrovia’s buildings were destroyed, and its infrastructure sustained heavy damage. In the late 1990s, life began returning to normal as the city started to rebuild, and its resi-
dents were hopeful that a United Nations-sponsored peace agreement and free elections would bring permanent peace to their home. 2
Getting There
Monrovia is located at the northern portion of the Liberian coast, on the promontory of Cape Mesurado at the mouth of the Mesurado River. The city extends across a series of small islands and peninsulas divided by lagoons. Highways Most thoroughfares in Liberia are dirt roads although the major northeast
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Monrovia
Monrovia Population Profile Population: 1,413,000 Area: 13 sq km (5 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 16 major ethnic groups, the most numerous being the Bassa World population rank1: 249 Percentage of national population2: 43.4% Average yearly growth rate: 7.7% ——— 1. The Monrovia metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of Liberia’s total population living in the Monrovia metropolitan area.
road out of Monrovia is paved with tar, as are the roads connecting Monrovia with Bo, Tubmanburg, and Buchanan. Monrovia’s infrastructure suffered heavy damage in the civil war of the 1990s, and rebuilding began late in the decade. In 1998 the Liberia Electricity Corporation turned on the first traffic light to function in the city since 1990. Bus and Railroad Service Crowded inter-city buses (actually minivans) travel most major routes in Liberia. There is direct bus service several times weekly to Abidjan, Cote d’Ivoire. Another major mode of intercity travel is bush taxi. There is daily bush taxi service between Monrovia and Buchanan, Gbarnga, Ganta, Sanniquellie, and destinations in Sierra Leone. Boats are often used to travel between Liberian coastal cities. Liberia’s railroads are all owned by the country’s mining companies, and their 480 kilo-
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meters (300 miles) of track are used primarily to transport iron ore to Monrovia and Buchanan. Limited passenger service from the mines to Buchanan was introduced in 1964. Airports The Spriggs-Payne Airfield, southeast of the city, is used for all domestic air travel (there are no regularly scheduled flights). Liberia’s sole international airport is located at Roberts International Airport (popularly known as Robertsfield), 58 kilometers (36 miles) from Monrovia. There are direct flights between Monrovia and Abidjan (Cote d’Ivoire) and Conakry (Guinea), and flights from Europe and the United States must connect through these points as well. Shipping The Free Port of Monrovia, opened in 1948, is Liberia’s major deepwater port. Improvements in the early 1960s increased the size of the ships it can accommodate. Together, the ports of Monrovia and Buchanan handle nearly all the country’s shipping. A large number of foreign-owned ships are registered in Liberia, giving it one of the world’s largest merchant fleets with more than 1,600 vessels. 3
Getting Around
Monrovia extends along the Atlantic coast, reaching north to Free Port and Bushrod Island and southeast to the suburb of Sinkor. Both Sinkor and
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Monrovia
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Monrovia the downtown area of the city itself are laid out in grid patterns. Bus and Commuter Rail Service The primary mode of public transport in Monrovia is sharing taxis. Fares are standardized according to a zone system. Sightseeing Years of warfare have curtailed sightseeing in Monrovia, destroying many buildings and much of the city’s infrastructure. 4
People
Monrovia is Liberia’s largest city; in 1995, its metropolitan population was estimated at 962,000. It is estimated that more than one-third of the country’s population lives within 80 kilometers (50 miles) of the city. The major demographic divide in Liberia is the distinction between the country’s indigenous residents and the descendants of freed American slaves, known as Americo-Liberians. The indigenous peoples (found mainly in the interior) outnumber Americo-Liberians (who live mainly on the coastal areas) by a ratio of about 30 to one. All 16 of Liberia’s major ethnic groups can be found among the population of Monrovia, with the most numerous being the Bassa, who belong to the Kwa linguistic group. Monrovia also has a foreign population consisting of both Africans and Europeans.
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5
Neighborhoods
The Monrovia metropolitan area, including the downtown area, nearby districts, and suburbs, has an area of approximately 13 square kilometers (five square miles). The downtown grid is home to government buildings, including the Capitol, Executive Mansion, City Hall, and Temple of Justice; foreign embassies; the Waterside Market; the National Museum; and hotels. Diminutive Providence Island, north of the city center, is the spot where the first freed slaves from America arrived in Liberia in 1822. To the east lie Bushrod, Bally, and Bank Islands. Bushrod Island, where the Free Port of Monrovia is located, is the city’s industrial center and the location of its deepwater port. Sinkor, southward along the Atlantic coast, is Monrovia’s major suburb and is also laid out in a grid pattern, with numbered streets and named avenues. Yet further south are the older district of Congotown, the Spriggs-Payne Airfield, and the Robertsfield Airport. Shantytowns with corrugated iron and cardboard houses extend along the edges of the city. 6
History
European exploration of the coast of present-day Liberia began in 1461 with the arrival of the Portuguese navigator Pedro de Sintra. He was followed by other Portuguese explorers, who named Cape Mesurado and other geographical features of the area, which became known as the Grain Coast.
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Monrovia
City Fact Comparison Indicator
Monrovia (Liberia)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
1,413,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1822
753 BC
723 BC
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$130
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$58
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$14
$14
$15
$16
$202
$173
$246
$207
6
13
20
11
Daily Observer
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
30,000
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1981
1944
1976
1948
Total daily costs (hotel, meals, incidentals) Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established 1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
By the early nineteenth century, anti-slavery sentiment was growing in the United States, and one proposed solution to the problem of accommodating freed slaves was resettlement in Africa. In 1818 representatives of the American Colonization Society, a private U.S. organization, made a trip to the Grain Coast to assess the area. Three years later the society acquired settlement rights for Cape Mesurado through agreements signed with local chieftains. These efforts were aided by the U.S. government under President James Monroe, after whom Monrovia was later named (its original name was
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Christopolis). The first settlers arrived in 1822, settling on Providence Island. In spite of the formal agreement, the settlers were attacked by local tribes but managed to survive. Under the leadership of another American, Jehudi Ashmun, Liberia’s first governmental and economic institutions were formed, and additional settlements were begun in nearby coastal areas. Liberia’s first governor was appointed in 1839, and the territory proclaimed its independence in 1847. A constitution based on that of the United States was adopted, and during the following decade the new
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Monrovia
Monrovia was named after the fifth U.S. president James Monroe (1758–1831; president 1817–25). (Werner Gartung; Woodfin Camp)
nation was recognized by most of the world’s major powers. A large loan from Britain, necessitated by the withdrawal of aid from American colonization societies following Liberian independence, plunged the new nation into debt later in the century. Unable to meet its obligations, the nation was forced to borrow yet more money; its foreign debt was not paid off until 1952. Toward the end of the nineteenth century, border disputes erupted with the French in neighboring Cote d’Ivoire and the British in Sierra Leone.
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Early twentieth-century events in Liberia included the establishment of a rubber plantation near Monrovia by the Firestone Tire and Rubber Company in 1926 and, a few years later, the resignation of the national government following a scandal over the shipment of African laborers to Fernando Po (in present-day Equatorial Guinea). During World War II (1939–45), Liberia joined the Allies in declaring war on Germany and Japan. As the result of a defense agreement signed with the United States in 1942, an international airport and deepwater harbor were constructed
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Monrovia in Monrovia by 1948. In 1964 the free port of Monrovia was placed for the first time under the jurisdiction of the Liberian government. In spite of the economic progress spurred by Monrovia’s growing importance as an international port city, Liberia fell prey to economic troubles in the 1960s and 1970s, as the world market for its major exports declined. The economic situation and continuing tensions between the coastal elite, mostly descended from ex-slaves, and the tribal population in the interior of the country, led to the overthrow of the democratically elected government of President William R. Tolbert in 1980 in a military coup led by Samuel K. Doe (1951–90), who ruled Liberia for ten years until civil war erupted in 1989 when rebels under the leadership of Charles Taylor invaded Liberia from Cote d’Ivoire. President Doe, who had barricaded himself in the presidential mansion, was killed, together with many of his supporters, in 1990, after which Monrovia was torn between the remnants of Doe’s army and breakaway rebel forces led by Prince Johnson, a former associate of Taylor. Taylor’s forces ultimately seized control of about 90 percent of the country and stormed Monrovia in 1992, after which an international peacekeeping force known as ECOMOG (the Economic Community of West African States Monitoring Group) was stationed in the country. A series of temporary UN-sponsored peace agreements temporarily halted the fighting, and a permanent agreement was
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A monument dedicated to the first settlers of 1822. (Werner Garttung; Woodfin Camp)
reached in 1996, followed by elections the following year, with Charles Taylor and the National Patriotic Party winning some 75 percent of the vote. Since the area around the capital was the major contested territory during the war, it suffered the greatest damage—to infrastructure and industry. In the late 1990s, however, life in Monrovia was beginning to return to normal, although fears of future violence were raised when ECOMOG troops withdrew in early 1998. As many of the refugees who had fled to neighboring countries poured back into the country, both Liberians and the international community hoped that rebuilding efforts could be undertaken without further bloodshed and brutality. 7
Government
As the seat of the national government, Monrovia is home to the Execu-
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Monrovia ular vote every six years, as are the legislators in the House of Representatives. Senators are directly elected for nineyear terms. During the civil war of 1990 to 1997, competing factions overran the country, and there was no effective central government. Central government was restored in 1995 under interim leadership in the form of a Council of State. In 1997 Charles Taylor was elected president of the country, and the Council of State was dissolved. There are no elected local councils in Liberia, and most local government centers around the country’s 13 counties. Monrovia, however, is governed directly by the federal government rather than at the county level. 8
A boy stands with the national flag of Liberia. Monrovia has no city or county government, but is governed directly by the federal government. (Werner Gartung; Woodfin Camp)
tive Mansion (the residence of the president), the Capitol building, the Temple of Justice, and various ministry buildings. Thanks to its close association with the United States, Liberia’s government has always been modeled on that of the United States, with executive and judicial branches and a bicameral legislature. The 1986 constitution adopted during the regime of General Samuel K. Doe provides for the president to be directly elected by pop-
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Public Safety
The greatest threat to public safety in Monrovia’s recent history was the civil war that raged throughout the country between 1990 and 1997, bringing lawlessness and destruction to this formerly peaceful capital. By 1996 the city lay in ruins while armed gangs employed by rival warlords roamed the streets killing, raping, and looting. Thousands fled the fighting in the capital, and at least 100 peacekeepers lost their lives while trying to restore security to the city and its environs. A U.S. airlift evacuated more than 2,300 people from Monrovia, including 461 American citizens, and nearly the entire U.S. embassy staff left the city. Although conditions improved substantially following the 1996 peace agreement and the 1997 elections, the threat
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Monrovia of violence remained, especially once ECOMOG forces had been withdrawn from the country. 9
Economy
Monrovia’s economy is centered on its harbor, home to the country’s major commercial port, which has accommodated ocean-going vessels since improvements made in the 1940s with U.S. assistance. It is a free port, and vessels from countries around the world can obtain Liberian registration, giving the port one of the world’s largest tanker fleets with more than 1,600 vessels. The main Liberian exports handled through the port are the country’s two major natural resources, latex from rubber plantations and iron ore. Monrovia also has storage and ship repair facilities. Items manufactured in or near the city include food products, cement, bricks, tiles, furniture, and pharmaceuticals. Following the civil war of the 1990s, Liberia, a country that was once prosperous by African standards, is one of the poorest countries on the continent, its economy decimated by displacement of its population and destruction of its infrastructure. Utility operation in Monrovia broke down in 1990, after which the city had no central power supply, and residents resorted to personal power generators. Now heavily dependent on foreign aid, Liberia faces the challenges of repatriating refugees who fled to neighboring countries, rebuilding its infrastructure, and restoring its public institutions.
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Environment
Wildlife on Liberia’s coastal plain, where Monrovia is located, has been virtually wiped out by hunting and habitat destruction, including increased poaching during the prolonged period of political instability since 1990. The Society for the Conservation of Nature of Liberia (SCNL), headquartered in Monrovia, is primarily concerned with preserving Liberia’s rain forests, located in the northwest and southeastern parts of the country. However, following the country’s civil war, the society also mounted a major campaign in the capital to rehabilitate its zoo, spearheading extensive renovations intended to include a guest house and environmental education center on the zoo grounds. The SCNL also initiated a project to plant acacia seedlings at some 50 sites around the city. Liberia’s largest generating station, the Mount Coffee hydroelectric plant on the Saint Paul River, is located near Monrovia. About half of Liberia’s electric energy comes from hydroelectric generation. Pollution of the river by iron ore tailings is a growing problem, while purity of the waters off the Atlantic coast is threatened by untreated sewage and waste water and oil residues. 11
Shopping
Monrovia’s Free Port has traditionally ensured the city a good supply of consumer goods, as well as specialties such as African cloth and clothing. The
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Monrovia
Modern consumer goods as well as traditional African specialty items are shipped into and out of Monrovia’s Free Port. (Homer Sykes; Woodfin Camp)
largest number of textile and apparel stores can be found on Benson Street, and textiles can be purchased at the Waterside Market. A large concentration of retailers can also be found on Randall Street. African crafts, including wood carvings, stone statues, and musical instruments, are sold in booths near the U.S. embassy and MBK Brother African Arts Dealer on Carey Street. There are also several supermarkets in Monrovia. 12
Education
Compared to most other countries in Africa, educational standards in
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Liberia are high. Although primary and secondary education for children ages six to 16 are theoretically compulsory, only about 50 percent of Liberian children receive a primary education, with the number dropping to 20 percent for secondary education. However, school attendance is better in cities than in rural areas. Liberia’s most important institution of higher education, the University of Liberia (founded in 1862), is located in Monrovia, as are the William V. S. Tubman College of Technology (founded 1978), several teacher-training and community colleges, and the
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Monrovia Monrovia Torrino Medical College, a training institute for paramedics. Cuttington University College, an Episcopalian institution that is the oldest private, coeducational, four-year college in sub-Saharan Africa, is located 193 kilometers (120 miles) north of Monrovia in Suakoko. 13
Health Care
The health-care network in Liberia as a whole suffered from the civil war of the 1990s. Damage to the country’s infrastructure and economy reduced its capacity to combat diseases, such as malaria, tuberculosis, dysentery, and schistosomiasis. At the end of the war, Liberia had some 85 hospitals, with 15 beds to every 10,000 persons. Health care facilities in Monrovia are among the best in the country and include the John F. Kennedy Memorial Hospital and the Roman Catholic Hospital, both of which are affiliated with medical and nursing schools.
Voice of America and the BBC World Service can be received; programming from the Sudan, France, and Italy, is also available through direct satellite links. 15
Soccer (“association football”) is the most popular sport in Monrovia, as elsewhere in Liberia. The city’s team, the Lone Stars, plays at a stadium about 12 kilometers (seven-and-a-half miles) from downtown and participates in inter-county competition for the national championship annually. At the international level, the Liberian national team competes in an African soccer league, and the country also has a national basketball team. Other popular sports in Monrovia are squash and swimming. At the collegiate level, the University of Liberia, located in the capital, competes against Cuttington University College in a variety of sports. 16
14
Media
There are several daily newspapers published in Monrovia. The foremost one, the Daily Observer, had a circulation of 30,000 in 1998. The New Liberian is the official newspaper of the Liberian government. The other newspapers include Liberian Age, the Sun Times, the Mirror, and Footprints Today. Liberia’s single, state-owned television station broadcasts from the capital, which is also the only area where its signal can be heard. Liberia has four radio stations, and programming by the
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Sports
Parks and Recreation
Outdoor activities abound in and around Monrovia. Located on Liberia’s Atlantic coast, Monrovia has a number of beaches, including Ellen’s Beach, Kendeja Beach, Thinker’s Village, and, farther out, Marshall Beach. Snorkeling, spear fishing, and scuba diving are all popular activities. Boating and fishing are centered on the St. Paul River. The privately owned Monrovia Zoo offers a glimpse at some of birds and wildlife one would find in the country’s tropical rainforests. The Bong Mining Com-
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Monrovia pany, about two hours north of Monrovia, has extensive recreational facilities, including a swimming pool, soccer field, golf course, tennis courts, restaurants, and aircraft and shooting clubs. 17
Performing Arts
Music and dance in Monrovia and Liberia’s other coastal cities combines traditional African and Western elements. The most common instruments on which traditional Liberian music is played include various types of xylophone, rattles, a variety of stringed instruments, and drums. Modern Liberian music has been influenced not only by American gospel and soul but also by the big band music of Ghana and Sierra Leone and the music of the West Indies and Latin America. Gospel music is widely heard over the radio in Monrovia and other parts of the country. Live popular music can be heard in a few clubs and discos although Monrovia’s night life is much quieter than it was in the years before the civil war. 18
Libraries and Museums
of galleries and a flourishing collection at the National Museum of Liberia, located in the Supreme Court building. The museum was looted during the war, but a number of its masks and ceramic objects were salvaged and are now housed at Cuttington University College in Suakoko. Other museums in Monrovia include the Africana Museum and a museum at the University of Liberia. Some of Monrovia’s local artists, including Leslie Lumeh and Lawson Sworh, display their works at their private studios.
To u r i s m
19
Tourism to Liberia has been suppressed by close to a decade of civil war and political instability. Of the country’s existing hotels, most are located in Monrovia, whose beaches are one of the country’s only tourist attractions. Located on Liberia’s Atlantic coast, popular beaches include Ellen’s Beach, Kendeja Beach, Thinker’s Village, and, farther out, Marshall Beach. 20
Holidays and Festivals
FEBRUARY
Monrovia is home to the government-run National Library, which holds some 15,000 volumes. Other libraries in the capital include a UNESCO facility, a children’s library, a research library operated by the Liberian Information Service, and the University of Liberia library, which holds 108,000 volumes.
Armed Forces Day
Before Liberia’s civil war, Monrovia had a thriving art scene, with a number
JULY
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MARCH Decoration Day J. J. Roberts Day
APRIL Fast and Prayer Day
MAY National Unification Day Independence Day
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Monrovia
Costumed dancers wait their turn to perform at a festival celebration. (Homer Sykes; Woodfin Camp)
AUGUST Flag Day
NOVEMBER Tubman Day
21
Famous Citizens
Joseph Jenkins Roberts (1809–76), Liberia’s first president. Jehudi Ashmun (1794–1828) and Ralph Randolph Gurley (1797–1872), Americans who helped organize the first settlement. William V. S. Tubman (1895–1971), president of Liberia from 1944 to 1971.
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Samuel K. Doe (1951–90), military leader and head of government. George Weah (b. 1966), European Footballer of the Year and African Football Player of the Year. Charles Taylor (b. 1947), former rebel leader and current president of Liberia. 22
For Further Study
Websites Friends of Liberia. [Online] Available http:// www.fol.org (accessed February 3, 2000). MIT. [Online] Available http://groove.mit.edu/ liberiapages (accessed February 3, 2000). University of Pennsylvania. [Online] Available http://www.sas.upenn.edu/african_studies/
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Monrovia country_specific/liberia.html (accessed February 3, 2000).
Government Offices Ministry of Planning and Economic Affairs Broad St. P.O. Box 10–9016 1000 Monrovia 10 Office of the President Executive Mansion P.O. Box 10–9001 Capitol Hill 1000 Monrovia 10
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Ministry of Information, Culture and Tourism Capitol Hill P.O. Box 10–9021 1000 Monrovia 10
Publications Daily Observer 117 Broad St. Crown Hill P.O. Box 1858 Liberian Age Carey St. P.O. Box 9031 New Liberian Capitol Hill P.O. Box 9021
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Books Belcher, Max, ed. A Land and Life Remembered: Americo-Liberian Folk Architecture. Athens: University of Georgia Press, 1988. Chea, Augustine S. Joy after Mourning: The Liberia Civil War. Decatur, GA: A.S. Chea, 1996. Daniels, Anthony. Monrovia Mon Amour: A Visit to Liberia. London: John Murray, 1992. Dolo, Emmanual. Democracy Versus Dictatorship: The Quest for Freedom and Justice in Africa’s Oldest Republic—Liberia. Lanham, MD: University Press of America, 1996. Harris, Katherine. African and American Values: Liberia and West Africa. Lanham, MD: University Press of America, 1985. Huband, Mark. The Liberian Civil War. Portland, OR: F. Cass, 1998. Kulah, Arthur F. Liberia Will Rise Again: Reflections on the Liberian Civil Crisis. Nashville: Abingdon Press, 1999. Liebenow, J. Gus. Liberia: The Quest for Democracy. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1987. Saha, Santosh C. Culture in Liberia: An Afrocentric View of the Cultural Interaction between the Indigenous Liberians and the Americo-Liberians. Lewiston, NY: E. Mellen Press, 1998. Sawyer, Amos. The Emergence of Autocracy in Liberia: Tragedy and Challenge. San Francisco, CA: Institute for Contemporary Studies, 1992. Shuster, Lynda. “The Final Days of Dr. Doe.” Granta. Vol. 48. 1994.
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Montréal Montréal, Québec, Canada, North America Founded: 1642; Incorporated: 1832 Location: Southern Quebéc, at the junction of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence Rivers Flag: A red cross on a white background, with four emblems, as follows (clockwise from upper left): fleur de lys, rose, shamrock, and thistle, representing historic French, English, Scottish, and Irish influences Time Zone: 7 AM Eastern Standard Time (EST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: White, 82.4%; black, 5.6%; other visible minorities, 12% Elevation: 36 m (117 ft) Latitude and Longitude: 45°31’N, 73°34’W Coastline: 24 km (15 mi) along the St. Lawrence River Climate: Continental climate with heavy snowfall and strong winds; warm summers Annual Mean Temperature: 6.5°C (43°F); January –6.3°C (27°F); July 22.2°C (72°F) Seasonal Average Snowfall: 214 cm (84 in) Average Annual Precipitation: 115–150 cm (45–60 in) Government: Mayor-council Weights and Measures: Metric system Monetary Units: Canadian dollar Telephone Area Code: 514 Postal Codes: All postal codes begin with the letter ‘H’
1
Introduction
Montréal is the largest city in eastern Canada and after Paris, the second largest French-speaking city in the world. Located on an island at the junction of the St. Lawrence and Ottawa rivers, to the north of New York state. Montréal is a center for trade and exchange. The stockaded settlement of Hochelaga predated the arrival of the first white explorers, such as Jacques Cartier. European settlement dates from 1642 when Maisonneuve established a small fort, Ville Marie, on the St. Lawrence River. Montréal takes its name from Mt. Royal, an imposing hill in the center of the city. The location of
the city has ensured Montréal’s position prominence in shipping, manufacturing, and until recently, finance. Although today its manufacturing industries are in decline, Montréal remains an important port for both ocean-going freighters and shipping on the St. Lawrence Seaway and the Great Lakes. Initially settled by the French, Montréal’s population has been divided between an English-speaking business elite and a poorer working Frenchspeaking class. Montréal’s ethnic complexion and its importance in both English Canada and Québec has changed. Under pressure from Québec Nationalists, major businesses and the English-speaking
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Montreal
Montréal Population Profile City Proper Population: 1,005, 000 Area: 192 sq km (74 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 82.4% white; 5.6% black other visible minorities 12% Nicknames: City of Churches
than any other North American city except the provincial capital Québec City. 2
Getting There
Montréal is easily accessible by road, rail, water, and air. Highways
Metropolitan Area Population: 3,401,000 Area: 3500 sq km (1,355 sq mi) World population rank1: 79 Percentage of national population2: 14.4% Average yearly growth rate: 0.6% ——— 1. The Montréal metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of Canada’s total population living in the Montréal metropolitan area.
elites who dominated them have departed for Toronto and Englishspeaking Canada. Québec City, the provincial capital, has surpassed Montréal as the center of Québec political life. Although Montréal, particularly the eastern part of the city, remains French, Francophone middle classes have departed for the suburbs. Immigrants from southern and eastern Europe and other parts of the world have made Montréal an ethnically diverse city. The city remains an important cultural center and a destination for North American and European tourists enticed by its restaurants, entertainment, neighborhoods, and the character of its older city. Narrow cobblestoned streets, stone buildings, and numerous cafes give Old Montréal a more European character
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Ten super highways converge on Montréal from Toronto, Ottawa, the Laurentians, Québec City, the Eastern Townships, New England, and New York state. Principal highways include the Trans-Canada Highway, which passes underneath the downtown; Autoroute 20 from Toronto; I-89 from Vermont and New England; and I-87 from Albany and New York City. Québec City is approximately three hours away; Ottawa, 90 minutes; Toronto, five hours; and New York City, six hours by car. Bus and Railroad Service Montréal is a hub for both the Canadian Pacific and Canadian National Railways. Via Rail operates trains to Ottawa, Toronto and points west, and Québec City and Eastern Canada. Amtrak operates a daily service from Washington, D.C., and New York City. Montréal can also be reached from numerous points by bus. Airports Montréal’s Dorval Airport is served by Air Canada, as well as major American and international carriers. Flights depart regularly for 130 cities in eastern
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Montreal
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Montreal and western Canada, as well as major American and European cities. There is shuttle service to Toronto, which is one hour away by air. Ottawa, Canada’s capital, is 15 minutes away by plane and can be reached in 90 minutes by car. Mirabel Airport, 58 kilometers (36 miles) to the north, provides charter and freight service. Shipping Linked to numerous ports around the world by various shipping lines, Montréal is the leading North American container port on the North Atlantic market. Over the past decade, the Port of Montréal has handled an average of some 18 million metric tons (20 million tons) of cargo each year, including containerized and non-containerized general cargo, grain and other dry bulk, and petroleum products and other liquid bulk. In addition, the port welcomes thousands of visitors to its Iberville Passenger Terminal every year. The Port of Montréal engages in year-round domestic and international trade. Moreover, the St. Lawrence River has been navigable year-round for ocean-going vessels for more than 35 years. A computerized dispatching system ensures that the correct number of longshoremen with the precise skills required are assigned to a ship each day. The Port of Montréal is also among the safest ports in the world as the entire port perimeter and individual terminals are enclosed, and entrances are always monitored.
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3
Getting Around
Montréal is served by a metro, buses, and an extensive but sometimes traffic-choked road network. Travel by auto can be frustrating. Although the city is traversed by broad boulevards and several expressways, roadways, bridges, and tunnels to suburbs in the south are often stopped with traffic. Drivers unfamiliar with exits and entrances find it difficult to maneuver across lanes to exits and entrances, and in accordance with provincial language laws, signs are in French. Bus and Commuter Rail Service The easiest way to get around the city is by Metro and bus. The Metro is modern, efficient, and quiet. Following a French design, trains run on rubber tires. Metro stations are spacious; each has a unique modern design. There are four separate lines: the green line runs east to west through the downtown; the red line runs south from HenriBourassa, west through the downtown and north again, intersecting the green line at Berri-UQAM and Lionel-Groulx; the yellow line runs from Berri-UQAM south to Longeuil on the opposite side of the St. Lawrence River. The Metro and bus systems are integrated: buses stop at Metro stations, and transfers are available from bus drivers or special machines at station entrances. Cash fares are $1.90 per trip. Six-ride tickets, one- and three-day tourist cards, and weekly and monthly passes are also available. Bicycles can be transported in non-rush hours in the front car of each train. Dorval Airport, 18 kilometers (11
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Montreal
City Fact Comparison Indicator
Montréal (Canada)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
3,401,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1642
753 BC
723 BC
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$108
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$62
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$15
$14
$15
$16
$185
$173
$246
$207
Total daily costs Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
4
13
20
11
Le Journal de Montréal
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
254,957
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1964
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
miles) west of the city, can be reached by bus, limousine, or taxi. 4
People
The city of Montréal has a population of one million, but the Montréal metropolitan area has 3.1 million people, 1.75 million of whom live within the Montréal Urban region. The population of the city is diverse. The largest groups within the population are Québecois (French Canadians, approximately 319,000) and English Canadians (301,000). However, Montréal is home to numerous ethnic and linguistic groups. The 1996 census reported sub-
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stantial numbers of Italians (84,000), Irish (43,000), Scots (26,000), Jews (27,000), Greeks (20,000), Chinese (22,000), South Asians (27,000), Haitians (37,000), and Lebanese (14,000). Nearly one-fifth of the population (204,000) is composed of visible minorities. Nearly half of Montréal’s population (492,000 people) is bilingual and thus capable of speaking both of Canada’s two official languages; 370,000 others speak French only, and 100,000 speak English only. This is a substantial change from the past when most of the English Canadian population spoke only English. However, to the dismay of many Québec nationalists, many Fran-
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Montreal the area of initial settlement, is a historic area with cafes and restaurants. The contemporary downtown is nearby, between Boulevard René Lévesque and Sherbrooke. Urban renewal projects under Mayor Jean Drapeau (1916–1999) replaced many low-rise buildings with modernistic high rises and a network of underground passages connecting shopping and office complexes.
French settlers established Ville Marie in Place Royale in 1642 in what is now Old Montréal. (Bernard Boutrit; Woodfin Camp)
cophones are moving to Montréal’s suburbs. As a result, the proportion of Montréal residents speaking French is declining; there is less insistence on the use of French in bars, cafes, and restaurants. 5
Neighborhoods
Montréal grew up in the area between the St. Lawrence River and Mount Royal. Older industries are on low lands to the west. Old Montréal,
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The modern city surrounds Mount Royal, a large glacial formation in the middle of Montréal island. Residential neighborhoods have distinctive complexions. North of Sherbrooke Street, mansions line streets running up to Mount Royal and extend into Westmount, an English-speaking area to the west of the downtown core. Westmount has been a center for Montréal’s English-speaking population. The east end of Montréal is a poorer and predominantly French. Housing stock here consists primarily of three-story walkup apartment buildings, with wroughtiron exterior stairways. Further west is Notre Dame du Grace, home to middle classes and immigrant communities. The Jewish and many other immigrant communities originally settled in the heart of the city, along St. Lawrence (St. Laurent) Blvd., a north-south artery dividing the eastern and western portions of the city. Italian areas are located further north, around the JeanTalon metro. Mount Royal, to the north of the mountain of the same name, is primarily an Anglophone area. Outremont, in contrast, is predominantly French speaking. Laval, on Jesus Island, is a French-speaking suburb. Longeuil
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Montreal on the southern shore of the St. Lawrence is mixed. 6
History
Montréal is one of Canada’s oldest settlements. Iroquois and Algonquin Indians had established a trading post and settlement, Hochelaga, well before the arrival of Europeans. The French explorer, Jacques Cartier, sailed up the St. Lawrence in 1635 and explored the island and surrounding areas. French settlers, under Sieur de Maisonneuve (Paul de Chomedey, b. early seventeenth century; d. 1676), established Ville Marie in 1642 at Place Royale in what is now Old Montréal. Initially, Montréal was governed as a seigneury, or concession held by a religious order, the Gentlemen of St. Suplice. Ease of water transport established Montréal as the center of the North American fur trade. Montréal remained under the French until 1760 when they were displaced by the British during the French and Indian War (1755–63). The Treaty of Paris in 1763 ceded Montréal to the British. Following the British conquest, Scottish and English merchants displaced the French and in the next 100 years established a commercial and banking empire. Construction of the Lachine canal in 1825, bypassing rapids in the river, opened up inland trade. The Bank of Montréal was established in 1817. Montréal banking interests financed the construction of the Canadian Pacific and the Grand Trunk Railways (later the Canadian National
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Railway), solidifying Montréal’s position as a shipping and commercial center. The city of Montréal was incorporated in 1832. English migration briefly produced an English-speaking majority from 1831 to 1867, but this was reversed by migration from the countryside later in the nineteenth century. European immigration lead to further growth in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. The city’s population reached one million in the 1930s and has remained stable since then. However, surrounding areas have continued to grow. Montréal island has 1.7 million people, the larger metropolitan area, 3.1 million. Water and rail transport and available work force facilitated the growth and diversification of industry. Montréal quickly emerged as a major city in both Canada and the province of Québec. Until the 1970s, Montréal was the center of Canadian banking and commerce, as well as an important industrial center. Although the transfer of business and commercial interests to Toronto has undermined the economic position of the city, Montréal’s earlier position has left the city with a legacy of public buildings and institutions, reflected in the major museums and cultural centers described below. Montréal is also the center of Québec cultural and intellectual life, and until recently dominated the smaller, more traditional and homogenous provincial capital, Québec City. In the late nineteenth century, Montréal provided a center for French-Canadian nationalism and was at the heart of the
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Montreal Quiet Revolution, which transformed Québec in the 1960s and 1970s. Relations between English and French speakers have been central in the development of Montréal, Québec, and Canadian politics. English conquest in 1763 transformed Montréal from a French to an English commercial center. Anglophone financial and commercial interests in Montréal allied with Québec upper classes, enabling Englishspeaking Montréal to flourish in an otherwise rural, traditional, Catholic and church-dominated province. In Montréal, English was the language of business, and French Canadians found themselves frustrated by demands to “speak white”—in English, rather than their native French. Elimination of Catholic (and thus Francophone) schools in Manitoba and other parts of western Canada cut off Québec migration to other parts of Canada, encouraging French-Canadian populations to turn in on themselves in solitude, separate from the rest of Canada. Cut off from both the rest of Canada and France, Québecois opposed Canadian involvement in both world wars. Opposition to the draft led to the arrest and imprisonment of Montréal Mayor Camillien Houde until 1944. Social and economic change transformed Québec in the 1960s and 1970s. French Canadian intellectuals, including former Prime Minister Pierre Elliot Trudeau (b. 1919; prime minister 1968– 79 and 1980–84) and former Québec Premier René Lévesque, a Montréal journalist, joined with others in a Quiet Revolution against the domination of
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traditional upper classes and the Roman Catholic Church. Montréal became a major center for competing views of the position of Québec in Canada. Trudeau and other federalists argued for bilingual and multi-cultural Canada while Québec nationalists, such as Lévesque, insisted on primacy for the French language in Québec and sovereignty for the Québec people. In the late 1960s and early 1970s, Québec nationalism provoked massive demonstrations and occasional acts of terrorism by organizations such as the Québec Liberation Front (FLQ). Kidnappings led to the imposition of the War Measures Act, a martial law, in Québec in the spring of 1970. After 1976, new language laws, requiring education in the French language for all, except the children of Anglophones born in Québec, and a dominant position for French in the workplace and on signs, transformed Québec society. Sign laws—Signage— became a point of friction between Anglophones, unable to operate in French, and Québec nationalists. Québec sign laws originally permitted signs only in French, but after negative court decisions, the law was re–written to require that French lettering be at least twice the size of lettering in any other language. Anglophones unwilling to become bilingual left Montréal and the province. In the process, Montréal lost many of its head offices but emerged as vibrant center of Québec intellectual and cultural life. However, language laws demanding that the children of immigrants be educated in
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Montreal French became a source of friction in Montréal’s many ethnic communities. More recently, tensions have subsided, in part because of Francophones. To the dismay of Québec nationalists, Montréal has regularly voted against a referenda demanding that Québec establish itself as a sovereign nation loosely associated with the rest of Canada. In turn, Parti Québecois governments have channeled badly needed investment to Québec City instead of Montréal. 7
Government
Montréal has two levels of government. The city of Montréal has its own 57-member council and a directly elected mayor. The city has a long and colorful political history. Mayor Camillien Houde was jailed during World War II (1939–45) because of his opposition to military conscription. Jean Drapeau (1916–99), mayor during the 1960s, was responsible for the urban renewal and reconstruction of the downtown core, the construction of the Metro, and Expo ‘67, which brought numerous visitors to Montréal. Drapeau’s Civic Party governed Montréal from 1960 to 1986 when it was replaced by Jean Dore’s Citizen’s Union. The City of Montréal is the largest of the 29 municipalities in the Montréal Urban Community. The Montréal Urban Community (MUC) handles police, fire protection, water supply, roads, public transportation, and regional planning for towns and cities on the island of Montréal. Created in 1970, MUC is governed by a council
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Reflecting its bilingual character, Montréal uses both English and French in day-to-day life. (Timothy Eagan; Woodfin Camp)
representing mayors and councilors from each of its 29 municipalities. 8
Public Safety
Policing and fire protection are provided by the Montréal Urban Community. Crime rates are relatively low in comparison to American cities, but the changing composition and relative poverty of Montréal’s population results in friction between police and fireman and visible minorities. Montréal crime rates are higher than Toronto but lower than Western Canadian cities, such as Winnipeg, Saskatoon, Edmonton, Regina, and Vancouver. The
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Montreal
The streets of Old Montréal are lined with shops, restaurants, and cafes. (Timothy Eagan; Woodfin Camp)
Montréal Urban Community employs nearly 6,000 policeman, one per 174 residents. 9
Economy
Montréal originated as trading post and subsequently developed as a cultural and industrial center of Québec and Canada under French rule. Montréal was home to the Hudson’s Bay Company and a major center of the fur trade. English-Canadian commercial and banking elites emerged in the nineteenth century, making Montréal the center of the Canadian economy. Its
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harbor and rail lines made it Canada’s premier port and a major center for manufacturing. However, in recent decades, older industries, such as textiles, have declined, and Montréal has lost prominence as a banking and commercial hub. The shift reflects linguistic conflict and changes in modes and methods of production. The rise of Québec nationalism in the 1960s and 1970s provided the opportunity for the rise of Francophone professional elites. However, successive language laws ensuring the pre-eminence of the French language forced English Canadians to relocate or become bilingual.
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Montreal Many took the latter course, but banks and insurance companies relocated head offices or key functions to Toronto. Linguistic conflicts coincided with the decline of older industries, such as textiles. In addition, in recent years, provincial governments have favored investment in Québec City over Montréal. One sign of Montréal’s economic decline is a recent decision to shift trade in common stocks from the Montréal to the Toronto Stock exchange. Despite the departure of corporate and banking headquarters and the decline of older industries, Montréal remains an important industrial and commercial center. Its port receives ocean-going ships, via the St. Lawrence River, and Montréal remains an important trans-shipment point for grain, agricultural, and industrial products, which arrive by rail and Great Lakes steamers. In addition to its port, Montréal is a major center for food processing, oil refining, and the production of electrical machinery and electronic equipment. Bombardier is a major producer of snowmobiles, subway and rail cars, and aircraft. Nevertheless, Montréal is plagued by an aging industrial base, making it difficult to provide sufficient employment for a workforce continually augmented by industrialization. Nearly one-fourth of the city’s population lives below the poverty line. Montréal is the home of Radio Canada, the Francophone equivalent of the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation. French and English cultural life thrive. One advantage of Montréal’s
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economic decline is that housing is less expensive than in cities like Toronto, Ottawa, or Vancouver. 10
Environment
Montréal has an inland climate. Temperatures in winter months are cold, averaging –3°C (23°F). With an annual snowfall of 214 centimeters (84 inches), Montréal receives more snow than Moscow. Temperatures rise to 11°C (52°F) in April or October. Summers can be hot. Average summer temperatures are 26°C (79°F). Water quality in the St. Lawrence River has improved with the clean up of the Great Lakes. However, Montréal does not yet treat sewerage, creating major pollution problems. Portions of the downtown and older industrial areas are now derelict and unoccupied, providing a sharp contrast to adjacent renewed areas of the city. Prevailing winds bring pollution from Ontario and the American Midwest. 11
Shopping
Montréal is a shopper’s paradise. The city is a center of fashion and design; stores in almost any price range are easily found. The principal shopping areas are downtown, in and around St. Catherine and Peel Streets. Department stores include the Bay and Oligivies. Numerous shops are located in Montréal’s underground city, an extensive network of underground malls and shopping centers. These link not only shops but also office complexes, hotels, and the central station.
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Montreal The principal shopping streets are St. Catherine Street from Place Ville Marie to Rue Guy. Smaller boutiques may be located along St. Catherine or Sherbrooke Street, two blocks to the north, and on the streets in between. 12
Education
Reflecting its bilingual character, Montréal has both English and French schools and universities. Until recently, most English-speaking students studied in Protestant schools, which were primarily—but not exclusively—Anglophone, while French-speaking students studied in Catholic schools. However, the province of Québec has recently reorganized its schools on linguistic rather than religious lines. Students study in public schools through grade 11 and then move on to more specialized schools (CGEPS) for an additional two years of study. Montréal has two Francophone and two Anglophone universities. The University of Montréal, the oldest and principal French-speaking university, has an extensive campus on the north side of Mt. Royal. The University of Québec in Montréal (UQAM) is downtown at the intersection of St. Catherine and St. Denis Streets. McGill University, the principal English University has its main campus downtown, between Sherbrooke Street and Mt. Royal. Concordia University is a few blocks to the west. Numerous students live in apartments in the “McGill ghetto,” located between the McGill
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campus and St. Denis Street, north of Sherbrooke. In addition to its four universities, Montréal is also home to the Biblioteque Nationale, Québec’s principal library, housed in buildings near UQAM. McGill attracts students from across the country and from the United States, and the University of Montréal attracts students from all over the province of Québec. Concordia and UQAM typically enroll larger percentages of local students. 13
Health Care
The Province of Québec, like all Canadian provinces, provides universal health insurance for all its citizens. Montréal is home to 20 hospitals, including the Royal Victoria Hospital, Montréal General Hospital, Saint-Luc, Sacré-Coeur, Hôtel-Dieu, Jewish General, Montréal General, and others. Many hospitals are affiliated with either the McGill or University of Montréal Medical faculties. In addition to hospitals, 56 community health centers have been instrumental in providing health care, particularly in poorer neighborhoods. However, both medical centers and hospitals have been hit by funding cuts, resulting in closure of beds and cutbacks in services. 14
Media
Montréal is a center for both Francophone and Anglophone media. The principal French-language newspapers are Le Devoir, La Presse, and Le Journal de Montréal. The Montréal Gazette serves
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Montreal Anglophone Montréalers. Numerous ethnic groups are also served by weekly ethnic newspapers. Montréal has 33 AM and FM radio stations and is home to Radio Canada, Canada’s public Francophone radio and TV network. Canada’s National Film Board (NFB) is based in Montréal. Available television includes Radio Canada and the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation, as well as numerous private broadcasters. Cable connections augment local broadcasting, providing among other things, access to the American media. 15
Sports
The most important sports in Montréal are hockey and baseball. The city’s sports teams include the Montréal Canadiens. The Canadiens, winners of 24 Stanley cups, were one of the six teams that originally made up the National Hockey League. Fans flocked to Montréal Forum, particularly to watch Montréal deal with its rival, the Toronto Maple Leafs. Known for its intimacy, the Forum was recently replaced by a new arena, the Molson Centre. The Alouettes, Montréal’s Canadian Football League (CFL) team, play at McGill stadium. Montréal has also been home to minor and major league baseball. The Montréal Expos play National League baseball in Montréal’s Olympic Stadium. The Expos team has had difficulty maintaining its standing in the league and attracting sufficient fans to fill the cavernous stadium that the Expos inherited. The one time that the Expos were close to winning the national league pennant, strikes forced
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the cancellation of the remainder of the season. 16
Parks and Recreation
Montréal’s most famous park, Mount Royal, occupies most of the mountain by the same name. Designed by Frederick Law Olmstead (1822– 1903), Mount Royal contains wooded land, trails, gardens, a skating rink and ski area, and sports fields along its base. A large iron cross, commemorating the original settlement, dominates the skyline, and two lookouts provide spectacular views of the city, particularly the downtown core, harbors, and the St. Lawrence River. The Parc des Îles (Park of Islands) is located on artificial islands in the St. Lawrence River. Originally built with fill from the construction of the Metro, the islands were the site of Expo ‘67, the 1967 World’s Fair. The Parc des Îles contains the Stewart Museum, exhibition space, an open air gallery with ten sculptures (including Alexander Calder’s L’ Homme), the Floralies Gardens, sculptures, and the Biopshere, a large globe built to house the former U.S. pavilion at Expo ‘67. The Biosphere now houses the Ecowatch center, an interactive museum that focuses on the complex ecosystem of the Great Lakes and St. Lawrence River. The islands also house a casino and Le Ronde, the amusement park built for Expo ‘67. Other parks include the Botanical Gardens (East on Sherbrooke) and Andrigon, in the western part of the city.
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Montreal
The Olympic Stadium, built in 1976, seats 80,000 and is home to the Montréal Expos baseball team. (Bernard Boutrit; Woodfin Camp)
Several parks and recreation areas are a one- to two-hour drive from the city. Mont Tremblant, in the Laurentian Mountains, is north of the city. The Eastern Townships, a region of glacial hills and lakes just to the north of Vermont and New England, provide summer and winter recreation. Lake Champlain, Vermont’s mountains, and the Adirondack region of New York are also in easy reach of Montréal. 17
Performing Arts
Montréal is a major center for music, dance, and French-language theater. The Place des Arts contains several
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large theaters and exhibition centers and is home the Montréal Symphony Orchestra, the Montréal Opera, Les Grandes Ballets Canadiens, and the Feux Follets, as well as numerous ensembles and quartets. Theater companies include Le Theatre du Nouveau Monde and Le Theatre du Rideau-Vert. Clubs and frequent festivals supplement regular offerings, ensuring that music for any taste is readily available. 18
Libraries and Museums
In addition to the Biblioteque Nationale and its university libraries,
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Montreal Montréal is home to numerous museums. The Montréal Museum of Fine Arts contains classical and modern collections and hosts numerous traveling exhibitions. Located on Sherbrooke Street, the museum is housed in a neoclassical building, and a modern annex faces it on the opposite side of the street. The McCord Museum concentrates on the history of Montréal, the Province of Québec, and Canada from the eighteenth century to the present. Its collections include paintings, drawings and photographs, costumes and textiles, and ethnographic objects from native peoples. The Cinémathèque Québécoise tracks trends in Québec, Canadian, and international film, television, and visual media. Photos, books, posters, scripts, clippings, and other documents are housed at an ultramodern location on Boul. De Maisonneuve East. Although films and tapes are stored in special vaults in Boucherville, the Cinémathèque in Montréal regularly screens films, old and new, and is a major centre for exhibitions and meetings. The Montréal Museum of Decorative Arts on Rue Crescent contains major collections on twentieth-century decorative trends, including furniture, glass, ceramics, jewelry, textiles, and graphic and industrial design. The Canadian Centre for Architecture is a museum, library, and research center devoted to architecture, landscape, and urban design, past and present. Exhibits and collections focus
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on the relationship between architectural trends and their relationship to natural and social environments. Collections are drawn from societies, past and present, in all parts of the world. Reflecting its interest in the interplay between past and present, the Centre is housed in a modern building located in a garden built to restore the surrounding urban area. The center includes Shaughnessy House, one of the few nineteenth-century Montréal homes still open to the public. McGill University’s Redpath Museum focuses on the history and diversity of the natural world. One of the cities oldest museums, the Redpath functions both as a university teaching facility and a natural history museum for elementary and high school students. However, budgetary cutbacks have forced the museum to restrict the hours in which it is open to the public. Other museums include the Stewart Museum, an original fort with exhibitions documenting the settlement of the new world, located in the Parc des Îles. 19
To u r i s m
Montréal’s rich history and its status as North America’s only bilingual city make it a tourist’s delight. Tourists come to enjoy not only its museums, galleries, and shops, but also a wide range of restaurants, theater, music, and an active night life. Old Montréal, adjacent to the port and a short distance from the downtown, is a regular stop on tourist itineraries. Located between
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Montreal the present downtown and the St. Lawrence River, Old Montréal provides access to the river and port. Gray stone buildings line cobblestone streets and squares, such as Place-d’Armes and Place Royale. The Champ-de-Mars, a public park is nearby. Attractions include the nineteenth-century domed Bonsecours Market, the City Hall, the Customs House, the Saint-Sulpice Seminary (Montréal’s oldest building) NotreDame-de-Bonsecours Chapel, and the Notre-Dame Basilica, noted for its richly gilded neo-gothic architecture. Other attractions include visiting St. Helene, the artificial island built to house the 1967 World Fair Expo, and strolling along streets lined with cafes and restaurants, such as St. Laurent, St. Denis, or Prince Arthur. In addition, there are numerous exhibitions and festivals. The Oratory of St. Joseph is a domed church on the north side of Mt. Royal; it attracts pilgrims who climb its many steps on their knees to seek salvation. 20
Holidays and Festivals
MARCH-APRIL Good Friday
MAY Victoria Day
JUNE Saint-Jean-Baptiste Day
21
Famous Citizens
Pierre Elliot Trudeau (b. 1919), Prime Minister of Canada, 1968–79 and 1980–84. Former Mayor Jean Drapeau (1916– 1999), architect of the city’s urban renewal. Humorist and economist Stephen Leacock (1869–1944). Novelist Mordecai Richler (b. 1931). French-Canadian intellectual Henri Bourassa (1868–1932), founder of the influential newspaper, Le Devoir. Although not born in Montréal, the first Parti Québecois premier, René Lévesque (1922–87), spent much of his journalistic career in the city before entering politics. 22
For Further Study
Websites Tourisme Montréal. [Online] Available http:// www.tourism-montreal.org (accessed January 7, 2000).
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Infotouriste 1001 Square Dorchester Montréal (Québec) H3B.1G2 (514) 873-2015 (800) 363-7777
JULY
Books
Canada Day
Hamilton, Janice. Destination Montreal. Minneapolis, MN: Lerner Publications, 1997. Lloyd, Tanya. Montreal. Vancouver: Whitecap Books, 1998. Water, Paul, ed. Montreal & Quebec City. Halifax, NS: Formac Publishing, 1999.
SEPTEMBER Labor Day
OCTOBER Thanksgiving Day
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Mumbai (Bombay) Mumbai, Maharashtra State, Republic of India, Asia Founded: 1668 Location: Arabian Seacoast of Maharashtra, India, South Asia Motto: Urbs Prima in Indis (“First City in India”) Time Zone: 5:30 PM Indian Standard Time (IST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: Maratha, more than 50%; Gujarati,18%; Marwari, Sindhi, Punjabi, Bohra, Khoja, Koli, and others, 32% Elevation: Sea-level Latitude and Longitude: 18º58'N, 72º50E Coastline: 36 km (23 mi), Bombay Island Climate: Tropical monsoonal; warm temperatures all year, with heavy rainfall concentrated in the summer months Annual Mean Temperature: 27°C (81°F); January 24ºC (76ºF); May 30ºC (86ºF) Average Annual Precipitation: 180 cm (71 in) Government: Municipal corporation Weights and Measures: Metric; imperial measures also used; common numbers are one lakh (100,000) and one crore (10 million) Monetary Units: Indian Rupee (Re) Telephone Area Codes: 022 Postal Codes: 400001–400104
1
Introduction
The city Mumbai, know as Bombay until 1995, is a great port city, situated on the west coast of the Indian peninsula. It is one of India’s dominant urban centers and, indeed, is one of the largest and most densely populated cities in the world. Deriving its name from Mumba Devi, a goddess of the local Koli fishing peoples, Mumbai grew up around a fort established by the British in the mid-seventeenth century to protect their trading interests along India’s western coast. The city’s superb natural harbor provided a focal point for sea routes crossing the Arabian Sea, and Mumbai soon became the main western
gateway to Britain’s expanding Indian empire. The city emerged as a center of manufacturing and industry during the eighteenth century. Today, Mumbai is India’s commercial and financial capital, as well as the capital city of Maharashtra State. 2
Getting There
The city lies on Mumbai Island, located off the Konkan coast of western India. Highways Mumbai is approachable by land only from the north (National Highway
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Mumbai (Bombay)
Mumbai (Bombay) Population Profile City Proper Population: Approximately 10 million Area: Mumbai Island: 65 sq km (25 sq mi) Nicknames: City of Gold; City of Dreams; Bollywood
Metropolitan Area Population: 18,042,000 Description: Area administered by the Municipal Corporation of Greater Mumbai (Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation or BMC) Area: 437 sq km (170 sq mi) World population rank1: 3 Percentage of national population2: 1.8% Average yearly growth rate: 3.5% Ethnic composition: Maratha, Gujarati, Marwari, Sindhi, Punjabi, Bohra, Khoja, Koli, and others ——— 1. The Mumbai (Bombay) metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of India’s total population living in the Mumbai (Bombay) metropolitan area.
8) and east, where National Highways 3 and 4 converge and cross over from the mainland to Thane on Salsette Island. This route then continues southward into the city, where a single main road continues to Colaba Point, the southernmost tip of Mumbai Island. Bridges, such as the Thana Creek Bridge, link Mumbai to the suburbs of Greater Mumbai on the mainland. Bus and Railroad Service Mumbai is an important rail center. Trains with colorful names, such as the Frontier Mail and Deccan Queen, set out from the city’s two main stations,
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Victoria Terminus (now called Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus) and Mumbai Central, carrying passengers to distant parts of the country. The headquarters of India’s Western Railway and Central Railway are located in the city. The Maharashtra State Road Transport Corporation and other State and private companies provide bus service to and from the city. Airports Mumbai’s Sahar International Airport (recently renamed the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj International Airport), on Salsette Island, handles almost two-thirds of India’s international air traffic. The airport is served by most major international carriers. Domestic flights use Santa Cruz Airport (also renamed Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Airport), which shares the same runways but operates from separate terminals. Shipping Mumbai’s deepwater harbor and harbor facilities make it the largest port in western India, handling some 40 percent of India’s total maritime trade. Catamaran and hovercraft services carry passengers from Mumbai to Goa, a major tourist destination. 3
Getting Around
Mumbai Island, the heart of Mumbai city, is only 65 square kilometers (25 square miles) in area and extremely congested. Six million people com-
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Mumbai (Bombay)
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Mumbai (Bombay) a fleet of buses over an extensive route system covering Mumbai and its environs. Recent improvements in this service include the introduction of luxury and air-conditioned buses. Black-andyellow painted taxis ply the streets of Mumbai; however, unlike in most Indian cities, three-wheeled auto rickshaws are banned from the city center. Land transportation in Mumbai is supplemented by a ferry system, which carries passengers across Mumbai Harbor to the eastern suburbs of Greater Mumbai on the mainland. Traditional watercraft plying these routes have recently been augmented by speedboats and hovercraft. Sightseeing
Victoria Station, one of the gates to Mumbai’s colonial past, carries passengers to distant parts of the country. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
mute daily on Mumbai’s public transportation system. Bus and Commuter Rail Service The most heavily used form of transport is the surburban electric rail system, with local trains—overflowing with passengers during peak commute hours—linking Mumbai’s suburbs to the city. It is common during the rush hour to see commuters hanging on for dear life to the outside of trains as they travel to the work place. The municipally-owned BEST corporation operates
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Mumbai hosts a variety of major attractions for Indian natives, as well as visitors from overseas. The most popular of these attractions is the rock-cut temples on Elephanta Island in Mumbai Harbor. Many sightseers travel to the island by boat from Apollo Bunder, the location of another famous attraction, the Gateway of India arch. Other sites of interest include the Crawford Market, the bazaars of Kalbadevi and Bhuleshwar, the Parsi Towers of Silence, and Haji Ali’s Mosque. 4
People
With a population of 9.9 million people in the central city, Mumbai is the third-largest city in the world. Some 15.4 million live in Greater Mumbai (Mumbai and its suburbs). Though much of the city’s population are Mar-
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Mumbai (Bombay)
City Fact Comparison Mumbai (India)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
18,042,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1668
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
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city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
n.a.
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
n.a.
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
n.a.
$14
$15
$16
Total daily costs (hotel, meals, incidentals)
n.a.
$173
$246
$207
Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
31
13
20
11
The Times of India
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
813,300
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1838
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
athas, inhabitants of Maharashtra and speaking the Marathi language, Mumbai is a cosmopolitan city. Its inhabitants include diverse ethnic groups, such as Gujaratis, Marwaris, Sindhis, and people from other Indian states, as well as religious minorities, such as Muslims, Christians, Sikhs, Buddhists, and Jains. Mumbai is home to the largest community of Parsis (Zoroastrians) in India, as well as a small population of Jews. 5
Neighborhoods
Mumbai city has many distinctive neighborhoods. The southern tip of Mumbai Island, Colaba, is known for
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the Gateway of India, a yellow basalt arch built in 1924 to commemorate the British presence in India. Just to the north lies the Fort Area, the site of the old British fort around which Mumbai was built. Its Victorian gothic buildings, such as Victoria Terminus and the High Court, are monuments to the city’s colonial past. Marine Drive, lined with high-rise apartments, runs along the shoreline of Back Bay from Nariman Point to Chowpatty Beach. Malabar Hill, an exclusive residential area, lies to the northwest of Back Bay. This neighborhood is known for the Hanging Gardens, as well as the Towers of Silence, where the Parsis lay out their dead to be
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Mumbai (Bombay)
Mumbai skyline from Marine Drive on the Back Bay area. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
consumed by vultures and crows. The crowded, bustling Kalbadevi and Bhuleshwar bazaar areas north of Crawford Market were known as “Native Town” to Mumbai’s early European inhabitants. Other well-known city landmarks are the Taj Mahal Hotel, Oval Maidan, Cuffe Parade, Horniman Circle, and Flora Fountain. Bandra and Juhu Beach are prosperous residential areas just north of the Mahim Causeway. Further north are many large suburbs, including Andheri, Kandivili, and Borivali. New Mumbai and Nhava Sheva, on the mainland to the east of Mumbai Harbor and Thana
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Creek, form part of the Greater Mumbai area. 6
History
The area of the Konkan coast where Mumbai 1ies has been settled since prehistoric times. It later came under the control of several states that ruled western India. These included the Buddhist Mauryan Empire (fourth–third centuries B.C.) and the Hindu Satavahana, Shaka, and Rashtrakuta dynasties. The Chalukyas (A.D. 550–750) built the magnificent cave temples on Elephanta Island in Mumbai Harbor. At the end of the thirteenth century, the Yadava rul-
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Mumbai (Bombay) ers, who had their capital at Aurangabad, some 300 kilometers (186 miles) to the northeast, established a settlement at Mahim on one of Mumbai’s original seven islands. This was in response to raids on their territory by the expanding Delhi Sultanate. Mahim was captured by the Muslim ruler of Gujarat in 1348. The Portuguese reached India’s western shores in 1498, Francisco de Almeida becoming the first Portuguese to enter Mumbai Harbor when he seized a Gujarati ship there in 1508. The Portuguese eventually forced Bahadur Shah, the sultan of Gujarat, to cede them Mumbai in 1534. Mumbai was acquired by the British in 1664 as part of Catherine of Branganza’s dowry when the sister of Portugal’s king married Charles II (1630– 1685; r. 1660–1685) of England. In 1668, the British East India Company leased the islands from the Crown for the nominal rent of ten pounds per year. Recognizing the potential of Mumbai and its harbor, the East India Company set about strengthening the settlement’s defenses and soon shifted its administrative headquarters to Mumbai from Surat, in Gujarat. Mumbai’s second governor, Gerald Aungier (d. 1677), laid the foundations for the city’s future growth. Political stability, the promise of religious freedom, and land grants soon attracted large numbers of settlers, including Gujarati and Parsi merchants, to Mumbai. These, and later immigrants, contributed significantly to the growth of Mumbai as an important trading center. By 1676,
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Mumbai had a population of around 60,000. The very end of the seventeenth century saw the beginning of the construction of seawalls, breakwaters, and reclamation projects that eventually connected the original seven islands (Mahim, Worli, Mazagaon, Old Woman’s Island, Colaba, and Mumbai Island) into a single Mumbai Island. During the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, Mumbai lagged behind Calcutta and Madras in importance. However, a series of events in the early and mid-nineteenth century propelled the city to a position of prominence. The continuing struggle for power between the Mughals (the Muslim rulers based in north India) and the Hindu Marathas created unstable political conditions in Gujarat and western India. Artisans and merchants fled to Mumbai for security, providing the stimulus for growth and expansion. This was further enhanced by the British defeat of the warlike Marathas and the expansion of trade both with the mainland and with Europe. In 1857, the first spinning and weaving mill was established in Mumbai, creating a cotton textile industry that was given a great boost by the American Civil War (1861–65), which cut off supplies of cotton to Britain. The opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 was another stimulus to Mumbai’s growth, further enhancing its position as a major trade, commercial, and industrial center. Mumbai’s size and economic power are reflected in its role in India’s modern political history. The city was an important center in India’s struggle for
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Mumbai (Bombay) independence from British colonial rule. The Indian National Congress, which led the nation’s fight for freedom, was founded there in 1885. Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi (1869– 1948), the Mahatma, spiritual leader of the independence movement, launched his “Quit India” campaign against the British in Mumbai in 1942. Linguistic tensions between Mumbai’s Marathi and Gujarati speakers resulted in violence in the city in the late 1950s. This led eventually to the separation of Gujarati-speaking areas from Mumbai state and the creation of Maharashtra State (1960). During the early 1990s, communal violence between Hindus and Muslims in Mumbai again shattered the myth of a tolerant, cosmopolitan city. Rioting led to the deaths of several hundred people (mostly Muslims) and culminated in the bombing (with numerous fatalities) of several buildings in March 1993. The Shiv Sena, a right-wing Maharashtra-based Hindu political party led by Bal Thackeray, was widely blamed for instigating Hindu violence against Muslims in the city. Subsequently elected to office, the Shiv Sena party in 1996 changed Mumbai’s name to “Mumbai,” the Maratha name for the city. 7
Government
Mumbai is administered by the Municipal Corporation of Greater Mumbai (Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation or BMC), whose chief executive officer, the Municipal Com-
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missioner, is appointed every three years by the state government of Maharashtra. The office of mayor is a primarily ceremonial one, with its occupant being elected annually by the BMC. Some city services are administered by the state while others, such as communications, are the responsbility of India’s central government. As the capital of Maharashtra, Mumbai is the site of the state government’s headquarters. 8
Public Safety
The Mumbai Police Force, some 40,000 strong, is administered by the state government. Its head, the Police Commissioner, answers to the home secretary of Maharashtra State. Although Mumbai is a relatively safe city, it is renowned for its underworld. The dons, the leading figures of the Mumbai mafia, have become legendary figures in the city. Recently, organized crime has expanded its activities from smuggling, the black market, and drugs to infiltrate political and business circles. Kidnapping of wealthy citizens for ransom is becoming an increasingly common occurrence. City services include a Fire Brigade and ambulance service, as well as police. 9
Economy
Though once dominated by the cotton textile industry, Mumbai’s economic base is now diversified. Textiles still remain important, but the city’s industries include petrochemicals, automobile manufacturing, metals, electronics, engineering, food processing,
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Mumbai (Bombay)
Mumbai is the home to some of India’s leading industrial, commercial and financial centers. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
and a wide range of light manufacturing. Mumbai is home to some of India’s largest and wealthiest industrial conglomerates, such as the Aditya Birla Group, Godrej, and Tata & Sons. More specialized economic activities are diamond cutting, computers, and movie making (in sheer numbers, Mumbai, or “Bollywood,” produces more movies than any other city in the world, including Hollywood). In addition to manufacturing, Mumbai is a leading commercial and financial center. The city is home to the Reserve Bank of India, the Mumbai
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Stock Exchange, and a variety of other major financial institutions. The government and service sectors are also important in the city’s economy. Business in Mumbai has traditionally been dominated by Gujaratis and the Parsis, and Gujarati is the language in which most business is conducted. Mumbai’s economic success, however, and its burgeonong population have created their own problems. The city is rated among the worst in India in terms of housing, cost of living, education, and health care.
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Mumbai (Bombay) 10
Environment
Built on what is, in effect, a peninsula, surrounded on three sides by water, and with the backdrop of the hills of the Western Ghats, Mumbai occupies a site of natural scenic beauty. However, sheer numbers of people and rapid population growth have contributed to some serious social and environmental problems. Mumbai attracts immigrants from rural areas seeking employment and a better life. Despite government attempts to discourage the influx of people, the city’s population grew at an annual rate of more than four percent a year. Many newcomers end up in abject poverty, often living in slums or sleeping in the streets. An estimated 42 percent of the city’s inhabitants live in slum conditions. Some areas of Mumbai city have population densities of around 46,000 per square kilometer—among the highest in the world. As a result of Mumbai’s size and high growth rate, urban sprawl, traffic congestion, inadequate sanitation, and pollution pose serious threats to the quality of life in the city. Automobile exhausts and industrial emissions, for example, contribute to serious air pollution, which is reflected in a high incidence of chronic respiratory problems among the populace. Breathing Mumbai’s air has been likened to smoking more than 20 cigarettes a day! The scale of such environmental problems, however, pales in light of a United Nations (UN) report that projects Mumbai’s population to reach 27.4 million by the year 2015.
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Shopping
Mumbai is among the best shopping centers in all of India. It offers the shopper everything from modern, airconditioned department stores to traditional bazaars and open-air, roadside stalls. Most modern shops, where prices are fixed, accept credit cards. In private handicraft shops, antique and curio shops, and on the street, prices are usually negotiable, and bargaining is part of the shopping experience. As a major textile and fashion center, Mumbai is known for its fabrics and clothes. Boutiques at Kemp’s Corner sell trendy western-style designer clothes though more traditional Indian clothes and fabrics may be found at Mangaldas Market in Kalbadevi, the nearby Mulji Jetha Market, and along M. Karve Road north of Churchgate Station. Other shopping areas are Crawford Market (fruits and vegetables), Zhaveri Bazaar (jewelry), and Chor Bazaar (“Thieves’ Market”), where everything from used car parts to furniture can be bought. Stalls along Colaba causeway sell handicrafts, watches, perfumes, clothes, jewelry, and leather goods. Many luxury hotels, such as the Oberoi and Taj Mahal, have exclusive (and exclusively priced) shops while a variety of traditional handicrafts can be purchased at government emporiums, such as those found in the World Trade Centre Arcade in Cuffe Parade.
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Mumbai (Bombay) 12
Education
Mumbai is a major center of learning and education. The University of Mumbai was founded in 1857 as an affiliating and examining body patterned after the University of London. Although it still has numerous constituent colleges, the institution has also taken on teaching functions. Other important educational and research institutions include SNDT Women’s University, the Indian Institute of Technology (ITT-Mumbai), the Bhabha Atomic Research Center (BARC), the Tata Institute of Fundamental Research (TIFR), and the National Center for Software Technology (NCST). The Haffkine Institute is an important center for research in medicine and allied sciences. Mumbai municipality runs more than 1,000 primary and secondary schools for the city’s children. Instruction is provided in the student’s mother tongue (mainly Marathi, Hindi, Urdu, and English) though Marathi is a compulsory subject in all municipal schools. Education is free up to certain grades although parents pay for text books and school uniforms. Literacy rates in Mumbai are high (c. 82 percent in 1998) although school drop-out rates are also high. Inadequate resources and declining standards in public institutions result in parents sending their children to the city’s elite private secondary schools, such as Sophia College and St. Xavier’s College. Many wealthier families look overseas for higher education.
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13
Health Care
The city of Mumbai has around 1,000 health care centers to serve its population. Most of these are private hospitals and clinics with excellent doctors and medical staff, many of whom have been trained overseas. There are, however, 17 municipal hospitals that provide care which is affordable to the city’s poor. Major health problems in the city include AIDS, tuberculosis, malaria, chronic respiratory ailments, and gastro-intestinal diseases related to poor sanitation and hygiene. Numerous pharmacies (“chemists”) supply a wide range of prescription and non-prescription drugs. 14
Media
Both the Times of India and the Indian Express, two national papers, have Mumbai editions. Other local papers include Asian Age, the Free Press Journal, and the Economic Times. The List is a weekly guide to what’s going on in Mumbai. In addition to these English-language papers, newspapers are also published in Hindi, Marathi, Gujarati, and Urdu (the language commonly spoken by India’s Muslims). All India Radio (AIR) and two local stations provide radio service to Mumbai. Several local TV stations provide programming in Marathi, Gujarati, Hindi, and English. BBC World, CNN, Star TV, and other international programming can be accessed by satellite cable.
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Sports
Mumbai is the home of Indian cricket (a game played on a large field with a leather ball and a flat wooden bat by two teams of 11 players each), and international matches between India and other countries are held at Wankhede Stadium. Cricket games can be found at almost any time on Mumbai’s maidans (open spaces). Soccer, field hockey, and kabbadi, a form of Indian wrestling, are also popular sports. Local beaches are available for swimming although the famous Juju Beach has serious problems with pollution. Horse races are held from November to April at Mahalaxmi Race Course. Golf, tennis, swimming, badminton, and squash facilities are available at private clubs, such as the Breach Candy Club, Mumbai Gymkhana, and Willingdon Sports Club. 16
Parks and Recreation
People in Mumbai enjoy strolling along beaches, such as Chowpatty Beach, or in the city’s numerous parks. The Hanging Gardens (Pheroze Shah Mehta Gardens) and Kamala Nehru Park, in the residential neighborhood of Malabar Hill, provide interesting views of the city. The Mumbai Zoo is located in Jijamata Garden. Further afield, in northern Greater Mumbai, is the Sanjay Gandhi National Park. The nearby Kanheri Caves, a complex of Buddhist caves dating to the second century, are a popular destination.
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Moviegoing is a universal pastime in Mumbai. Film City in northern Mumbai is the center of India’s movie industry, and the lives and activities of popular film stars are eagerly followed by fans all across the country. Visits to restaurants, clubs, pubs, and discos are popular among the city’s westernized youth. Pool halls and cybercafes are a rapidly growing aspect of the Mumbai entertainment scene. 17
Performing Arts
At one time, Mumbai was a thriving center of live theater, with performances in English, Hindi, Marathi, and Gujarati. Many of the city’s theaters have now been converted into movie houses. However, the National Center for Performing Arts (NCPA) at Nariman Point was established in Mumbai in 1966 to promote Indian music, dance, and drama. The NCPA stages performances ranging from concerts by visiting western classical music groups (Zubin Mehta regularly takes the Israeli Philharmonic to Mumbai) to regional Indian theater and Indian classical dance and music. The Prithvi Theater at Juhu Beach, founded by the actor Prithviraj Kapoor, provides a home for Hindi theater. Performances also include productions in Marathi, Gujarati, Urdu, and English. The Prithvi also runs a summer theater workshop for children. Other venues for live theater and music performances include Nehru Centre (Worli), Shivaji Mandir (Dadar), Bhaisdas Hall (Vile Parle West), and Shanmukananda Hall (King’s Circle).
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Mumbai (Bombay) 18
Libraries and Museums
Mumbai’s imposing Town Hall, overlooking Horniman Circle, houses the Royal Asiatic Society of Mumbai’s library, as well as the State Central Library, which is a repository for every book published in India. Other libraries in the city include the David Sassoon Library and the Max Müller Bhavan library, both in Kala Ghoda. Built in the Indo-Saracenic style, the Prince of Wales Museum (also in Kala Ghoda) has sections on art, archaeology, and natural history and is known for its collection of Rajasthani and Deccani miniature paintings. The Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum (Byculla), formerly the Victoria and Albert Museum, has exhibits relating mostly to Mumbai and western India. The Mumbai Society of Natural History is located in the Fort area. The city’s art galleries include the National Gallery of Modern Art, which houses both permanent and touring exhibits, and the Jehangir Gallery. 19
To u r i s m
Mumbai is a destination for Indian tourists, as well as visitors from overseas. The rock-cut temples on Elephanta Island in Mumbai Harbor can be reached by boat from Apollo Bunder and are the city’s major attraction. Dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva and dating to around the sixth century, the temples were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984. Apollo Bunder is
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also the location of the famous Gateway of India, the arch built to comemmorate the visit of King George V (1865–1936; r. 1910–1936) of England to India in 1911. Other tourist attractions include the city’s impressive gothic architecture, Crawford Market, the bazaars of Kalbadevi and Bhuleshwar, the Parsi Towers of Silence, and Haji Ali’s Mosque. Mumbai is also a departure point for excursions to the old Portuguese fort at Bassein, to the hill stations in the Western Ghats (Matheran, Lonavla, and Khandala), to Pune, and other attractions in western Maharashtra. 20
Holidays and Festivals
India uses a lunar calendar, and festivals may fall in different months in different years. The date of Muslim religious festivals falls about 11 days earlier in each succeeding year according to the western calendar. JANUARY Makara Sankranti (a Gujarati festival celebrated by kite-flying) Banganga Festival (music festival held at Banganga Tank)
FEBRUARY Elephanta festival (classical Indian music and dance performed on Elephanta Island)
FEBRUARY-MARCH Mahashivratri (Hindus worhip the god Shiva.) Holi (spring festival of the Hindus)
MARCH-APRIL Gudi Padava (Maharashtrian New Year) Mahavir Jayanti (Jains celebrate birth of founder of Jainism.) Muharram (Muslims comemmorate the martyrdom of Hussain, the Prophet's grandson.)
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Tourists may enjoy strolling and shopping in Mumbai’s open markets. Here, food vendors sell fresh fruit and vegetables on Chowpatty Beach. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
JULY-AUGUST
NOVEMBER
Coconut Day
Nanak Jayanti (Sikhs celebrate the birthday of Guru Nanak, founder of their religion.) Prithvi Theatre Festival
AUGUST-SEPTEMBER Parsi New Year Ganesh Chaturthi (Images immersed in the sea.)
of
Ganesh
are
Gokulashtami (Krishna’s birthday) Dussehra (nine-day festival celebrating Rama's victory over Ravanna, the demon king of Lanka)
SEPTEMBER Bandra Fair (Feast day of the Virgin Mary is celebrated at the Basilica of Mount Mary in Bandra.)
OCTOBER-NOVEMBER Diwali (The Festival of Lights marks the New Year for Jains and many Hindus.)
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DECEMBER Christmas (celebrated by Christians December 25) New Year’s Eve (celebrated by Christians December 31)
DECEMBER-JANUARY Ramadan (Muslim month of fasting during daylight hours)
21
Famous Citizens
H. J. Bhabha (1909–66), nuclear physicist.
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Mumbai (Bombay) Madhuri Dixit (b. 1967), movie star. S. M. Gavaskar (b. 1949), cricket-player. Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy (1783–1859), Parsi businessman, social reformer, and philanthropist, the first Indian to be knighted (1847) by the British Government. Rudyard Kipling (1865–1936), English author. Zubin Mehta (b. 1936), orchestral conductor. Dom Moraes (b. 1938), writer. Dr. Dhadabhai Naoroji (1825–1917), first Indian to become a Member of the British House of Commons and President of the Indian National Congress. Salman Rushdie (b. 1947), Indian-born British writer. J. N. Tata (1839–1904), industrialist and philanthropist. Sachin Tendulkar (b. 1973), cricketplayer. Dr. B. R. Ambedkar (1891–1956), a leader of the “untouchable” Hindus widely regarded as the chief architect of the Indian constitution. Amitabh Bacchhan (b. 1942), movie star. W. M. Haffkine (1860–1930), doctor and discoverer of the plague vaccine. M.F. Hussein (b. 1915), contemporary artist.
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M. A. Jinnah (1875–1948), lawyer, Muslim political leader, and the father of the state of Pakistan. Sir David Sassoon (1792–1853), Baghdadi-born Jew, business tycoon, and philanthropist. 22
For Further Study
Websites Bombay Net. [Online] Available http:// www.bombaynet.com (accessed February 5, 2000). Mumbai Central. [Online] Available http:// www.mumbai-central.com (accessed February 5, 2000). Mumbai Net. [Online] Available http:// www.mumbainet.com (accessed February 5, 2000). The Mumbai Pages. [Online] Available http:// www.theory.tifr.res.in/bombay/index.html (accessed February 5, 2000). Rediff on the Net. [Online] Available http:// www.rediff.com (accessed February 5, 2000).
Government Offices Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation (BMC) BMC Building Dr. D. Naoroji Rd. Nagar Chowk Mumbai 400002 Mantrayala (Maharashtra State Civil Service) Madame Cama Road Nariman Point Mumbai 400021
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Bombay Chamber of Commerce & Industry Mackinnon Mackenzie Building Ballard Estate, Shoorji Vallabhdas Marg Mumbai 400001 Tel: 2614681 Fax: 2621213 Government of India Tourist Office 123 Maharshi Karve Rd. Mumbai 400021 Tel: 2033144 Fax: 2014496
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Mumbai (Bombay) Maharashtra Tourism Development Office (Tours Division and Reservations Office) CDO Hutments, Madame Cama Rd. Nariman Point Mumbai 400021 Tel: 2026713 Fax: 2852812
Publications Indian Express (Bombay) Inc. Express Towers Nariman Point Mumbai 400021 Tel: 2022627 Fax: 2022139 The Times of India Times of India Building Dr. D. Naoroji Road Mumbai 400001 Tel: 2620271 Fax: 2620144
Books Bhojani, Namas and Arun Katiyar. Bombay: A Contemporary Account of Mumbai. New Delhi: Harper Collins, 1996. Collins, David. Mumbai (Bombay). Melbourne: Lonely Planet Publications, 1999. Contractor, Behram. From Bombay to Mumbai. Mumbai: Oriana Books, 1998. Desai, Anita. Baumgartner's Bombay. New York: Penguin, 1998. Dwivedi, Sharada and Rahul Mehrotra. Bombay: The Cities Within. Bombay: India Book House, 1995. Edwardes, S. M. The Gazetteer of Bombay City and
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Island. 3 vols. Bombay: Times Press, 1909–10 [reprinted 1977–78]. Mehta, Rina. Mumbai Mum's Guide. Bombay: Oxford and India Book House, 1999. Moraes, Dom. Bombay. Amsterdam: Time-Life Books, 1979. Patel, Sujata and Alice Thorner. Bombay: Metaphor for Modern India. Bombay: Oxford University Press, 1995. Patel, Sujata and Alice Thorner. Bombay: Mosaic of Modern Culture. Bombay: Oxford University Press, 1995. Rohatgi, Pauline, Pheroza Godrej and Rahul Mehrotra, eds. Bombay to Mumbai: Changing Perspectives. Mumbai: Marg Publications, 1997. Rohinton, Mistry. Swimming Lessons, and Other Stories from Firozsha Baag. New York: Vintage, 1997. Rohinton, Mistry. Such a Long Journey. New York: Vintage, 1992. Rushdie, Salman. Midnight’s Children. New York: Knopf, 1995. Rushdie, Salman. The Moor’s Last Sigh. New York: Pantheon, 1995. Tindall, Gillian. City of Gold: the Biography of Bombay. Harmondsworth, England: Penguin, 1992. Virani, Pinki. Once Was Bombay. New Delhi: Penguin Books India, 1999.
English-language movies set in Bombay Bombay 2000. Mira Nair, 1999. Bombay Boys. Mani Ratnam, 1994. Perfect Murder. Zafar Hai, 1988. Salaam Bombay. Mira Nair, 1988.
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Nairobi Nairobi, Kenya, Africa Founded: 1899; Incorporated: 1903 Location: 500 km (300 mi) west of the Indian Ocean in Kenya’s Central Highlands Flag: Field divided into yellow and green quarters, with center circle featuring blue and white waves. Motto: City in the Sun Flower: Glorisa Superba (Kenya) Time Zone: 3:00 PM Universal Coordinated Time (UCT-3) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: Kenyan African groups—Kikuyu, Luo, Luhyia, Kalenjin, Kisii, and Kamba; Asians (people who trace their origins to India and Pakistan), Europeans, and Somalis Elevation: 1,680 meters (5,512 feet) Latitude and Longitude: 1°16'S, 36°48'E Climate: Tropical highland with sunny days, mild daily temperatures, and cool nights Annual Mean Temperature: September to April maximum average daytime temperature 24°C (75°F) and minimum average nighttime temperature 13°C (55.4°F); May to August maximum average daytime temperature 21°C (70°F) and minimum average nighttime temperature 11°C (51.8°F) Seasonal Average Rain: Heavy rains March to May; lighter rains November to December Government: Mayor-council Weights and Measures: Metric system Monetary Units: Kenyan Shilling Telephone Area Codes: 254 (Kenya country code); 2 (Nairobi city code)
1
Introduction
Nairobi is the main commercial and cultural center for East Africa. It is the largest city between Cairo, Egypt, in north Africa, and Johannesburg, South Africa. Located on the edge of the rich agricultural region of the Central Highlands, Nairobi is the capital city of Kenya, the most developed country in East Africa. As one of Africa’s leading cities, it hosts important international conferences and is the home for many embassies, international organizations,
and businesses. The city has a cosmopolitan flair that combines African, Asian, European, and Middle Eastern cultures. Although it is a relatively new city (founded in 1899), it has played an important role in the region. It was at the epicenter of the nationalist movement, which eventually led to Kenya’s independence from Great Britain in 1963. Since independence, the city has grown at a tremendous rate. The city reflects the stark contrasts of wealth that characterize Kenyan society. In the shadows of the skyscrapers in the pros-
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Nairobi Population Profile Population: 2,320,000 Area: 689 sq km (266 sq mi) Ethnic composition: Kenyan African groups— Kikuyu, Luo, Luhyia, Kalenjin, Kisii, and Kamba; Asians (people who trace their origins to India and Pakistan), Europeans, and Somalis World population rank1: 133 Percentage of national population2: 7.7% Average yearly growth rate: 5.0% Nicknames: City in the Sun; Nairobbery ——— 1. The Nairobi metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of Kenya’s total population living in the Nairobi metropolitan area.
perous and efficient central business district lives an army of up to 100,000 homeless. Side by side with beautiful upscale neighborhoods, like Karen and Westlands, are desolate slum areas, such as Mathare Valley and Kibera. The grinding poverty of some of the city’s residents, coupled with the world-class wealth of others, has contributed to one of the Nairobi’s most serious problems: crime. Muggings, car jackings, and robberies are common. However, for many residents the “City in the Sun” remains a dynamic and bustling place in which to live, work, and go to school. 2
Getting There
Nairobi is located in south-central Kenya, 140 kilometers (87 miles) south of the equator. It is well served by international airlines, and a regional road network links it to other major East
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African urban centers. Railways link Nairobi to Mombasa, Kenya’s second largest city, on the Indian Ocean and Kisumu, the third largest city, on the shores of Lake Victoria. Highways Nairobi is connected by paved roads to Kenya’s other major urban centers, such as Mombasa, Kisumu, Nakuru, Kisii, and Kericho. A paved road also links Nairobi to northern Tanzania’s major tourist, agricultural, and commercial center, Arusha. Traffic jams are common leading into the city during the morning rush hour and leading out of the city after work hours. Bus and Railroad Service There are a large number of longdistance bus companies in Nairobi that provide transportation to most areas of the country. Long-distance buses also provide service to major cities in Uganda and Tanzania. In addition to long-distance buses, there are minibuses with regular service to Mombasa and shared taxis to nearby urban centers including the Kenya-Tanzania border. Shared taxis are Peugeot station wagons that usually carry seven passengers. Often the minibuses and shared taxis leave when they are full and therefore do not follow fixed schedules. While the large buses often follow a schedule, at times they operate along lines similar to those of shared taxis and leave when full. Road transport can be dangerous. Many of the long-distance buses travel at night and, in addition to transporting passengers, carry
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Nairobi cargo. There have been a number of horrific accidents in which large numbers of passengers have been killed or injured. Nairobi railway station serves as the main point of departure for trains to and from Mombasa and Kisumu. There is also a direct Nairobi to Kampala, Uganda, train once a week. Airports The Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, about 13 kilometers (eight miles) southeast of the town center via the Mombasa Highway, is the main airport in East Africa. It offers flights to many destinations in Africa, Europe, the Middle East, and Asia, as well as internal flights to Kisumu on Lake Victoria and Malindi and Mombasa on the coast. In addition to Kenyan airlines, Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is serviced by a large number of international airlines. Major airlines that fly into Kenyatta include Air France, Air India, British Airways, KLM, Lufthansa, Gulf Air, Japan Airlines, El-Al, and Pakistan International Airlines. African airlines that service Nairobi include Ethiopia Airlines, Air Tanzania, South African Airways, Air Madagascar, Air Malawi, Air Mauritius, Air Rwanda, Air Zimbabwe, Cameroon Airlines, Egypt Air, and Royal Swazi. Wilson is Nairobi’s other main airport. Located close to the Nairobi National Park, this airport caters primarily to smaller planes and charter flights. In terms of the number of flights, it is said to be busier than Jomo
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Kenyatta International Airport. Many charter flights to Kenya’s game parks or coastal resorts fly out of Wilson. 3
Getting Around
Downtown Nairobi is in the shape of a triangle. Most of the skyscrapers and major government offices are centered inside of three borders: Uhuru Highway to the west, what used to be the old United States Embassy building to the south, and the Nairobi River to the northeast. In general, the discount shops, hotels, and poorer neighborhoods are located east of the central business district; to the west are the more affluent areas. The streets in the central business district are laid out in a grid pattern. Major roads lead out of the central business district to the residential areas that encircle it. Bus and Commuter Rail Service Mass transit in Nairobi is made up of buses and minibuses. These can be a cheap, if not adventurous, way of getting around Nairobi. They are usually packed during the morning rush hours as people head to work and in the evening as Nairobians return home. However, at other times and on weekends the congestion is not bad. Commuters are not the only people who make use of mass transit: passengers need to be wary of pick-pockets. Kenya Bus Service (KBS) operates a large fleet of commuter buses that serve the city. However, the most important means of mass transit are matatus. Matatus are privately owned minibuses. Many are outrageously decorated (Minnesota
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Nairobi
City Fact Comparison Nairobi (Kenya)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
2,320,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1899
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$130
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$52
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$13
$14
$15
$16
$195
$173
$246
$207
9
13
20
11
Daily Nation
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
170,000
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1960
1944
1976
1948
Total daily costs Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established 1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
Timberwolves, Dennis Rodman, Scud Missile), encouraged by competitions for most original design. Other characteristics of matatus include loud music blaring from the sound-systems and drivers who seldom obey traffic regulations. Although matatus are often jampacked with people, the drivers always believe there is space for one more. Taxi and Shared Taxi Taxis are a more expensive but more reliable mode of transportation than the matatus. They come in all shapes and conditions, including some London-style cabs. Usually, they are not metered and, like most other things in
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Nairobi, their fares are negotiable. Shared taxis, Peugeot station wagons packed with people, operate on some routes and also take passengers to nearby towns. Walking Because traffic congestion is a major problem in downtown Nairobi, walking is the best way to get around the city center. The distances are short, and the streets are well marked. Sightseeing Nairobi is home to many tour operators and travel agents. Excursions can be arranged to all parts of Kenya and to
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Nairobi
Nairobi is the most developed city in East Africa. (Christina Thompson; Woodfin Camp)
visit Tanzania’s impressive northern game parks. Most tour companies and travel agents can organize tours of Nairobi. Tours of central Nairobi will normally include visits to the Parliament Building, the City Market, and the National Museum. Trips to Nairobi National Park, the Giraffe Center, and the Karen Blixen Museum can also be easily arranged. 4
People
Nairobi is a culturally diverse city. All the major Kenyan ethnic groups are represented in the city, and these include the Kikuyu, Luo, Luhyia, Kalen-
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jin, Kisii, and Kamba. While it is difficult to know the exact percentages of the ethnic makeup of Nairobi, there are probably more Kikuyu living in the city than any other group. The Kikuyu make up around 20 percent of the Kenyan population, and their home area borders Nairobi. In addition to the Kenyan African ethnic groups, there is a sizeable population of Asians (people who trace their origins to India and Pakistan), Europeans, and Somalis. Nairobi is also home to a sizeable expatriate (people who have left their homeland) community as numerous embassies and international organizations have offices in the city.
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Nairobi 5
Neighborhoods
Nairobi’s neighborhoods have been influenced by the colonial-era segregation of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, when living space was divided into European, Asian, and African areas. In general, western Nairobi was reserved for Europeans and wealthy Asians. The east was for Africans and poor Asians. One of Nairobi’s largest neighborhoods is Eastleigh. It was originally an Asian and African area, but since independence, it has become a large, overcrowded, primarily African residential estate. Across Juja road from Eastleigh is Mathare, a large slum. On the west side of town are former white-only areas that now house the wealthy from all of Nairobi’s ethnic groups. Karen, Langata, Lavington, and Westlands are some of Nairobi’s posh residential addresses. These neighborhoods are home to high-quality schools, mini-shopping malls, and restaurants. There are a number of housing estates, like South C and Buru Buru, that have been built to accommodate the city’s growing middle class. Ngong Hills, situated west of Nairobi, along with Limuru to the north were sites where many white settlers set up farms and built their houses in early colonial days. 6
History
The country known today as Kenya was created by European colonialism in Africa, which lasted from the mid-
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1800s to the 1960s. Kenya was a British protectorate from 1895 to 1920 and a colony from 1920 to 1963. Prior to 1870 the peoples of what is now Kenya were independent of European control; they governed themselves through councils of elders. However, in 1884 the Sultan of Zanzibar, Seyyid Bargash, allowed a trading concession to the British East Africa Company; thus, British interest in East Africa was sparked by private enterprise. In addition to the British East Africa Company, pioneer missionaries also came to East Africa to spread Christianity and to help abolish the slave trade. An 1886 Anglo-German treaty partitioned East Africa between the two powers, placing the future Kenya in the British sphere and the future Tanzania in the German sphere. In 1888 the British East Africa Company was granted a Royal Charter and renamed the Imperial British East Africa Company (IBEA). The company was given exclusive rights to commercially exploit the British sphere. In 1895 the territory lying between Mombasa and the eastern edge of the Rift Valley (the future Kenya) was declared the East African Protectorate. In 1902, the eastern province of Uganda was added to the East African Protectorate. In 1920 the Protectorate was declared a Crown Colony and renamed Kenya. The name Kenya appears to have come from the Kamba word Kinyaa, meaning “ostrich.” The word “Nairobi” came from the Masai word enairobe, which literally means “stream of cold water.” Nairobi
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Nairobi was founded in 1899. It grew up around a railway line constructed by the British colonial officials from Mombasa on the Indian Ocean coast to Uganda. The present site of Nairobi was selected as a stores depot, shunting yard (place where trains are shifted from one track to another), and camping ground for the thousands of Indian laborers (also British colonials, who came to Kenya seeking work) employed by the British to work on the line. From this point Nairobi developed slowly, unplanned, and unexpectedly. The outbreak of plague and the burning down of the original compound necessitated the town’s rebuilding. By 1907, Nairobi was firmly established and the colonizers decided to make it the capital of the newly formed British East Africa. European settlers were encouraged to settle in the country, and Nairobi was their natural choice due to its cool climate and fertile soils. British authorities hoped these settlers would develop a modern economic sector that would enable the railway to pay for itself. Until that happened, the railway scheme seemed a useless venture that would consume more money than was called for in the initial plans. White settlement in the early years of the twentieth century was led by Lord Delamere, a pugnacious farmer from Cheshire, England. The lord and many other pioneer farmers suffered a lot in their farming ventures as little was known of the kind of crops to grow there. By trial and error they established plantations of coffee, tea, sisal (a plant yielding a
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strong fiber used to make rope), and pyrethrum (a perennial plant yielding flowers used to make insecticide). Cattle rearing also proved to be a profitable undertaking, spurring the establishment of huge ranches. The development of the settler economy allowed the railway venture to reverse its deficits. Due to high demand for laborers in the established plantations, a system was designed to force Africans to work for Europeans. Until the early twentieth century, most Kenyans were subsistence farmers, growing only enough food to meet their needs. In 1920 the colonial state began to confiscate African land; Africans were taxed, and a cash economy was created, forcing many Africans to give up peasant farming to search for cash incomes by working on the European plantations. The Indians who remained behind after the completion of the railway took up trade as their major occupation. In the early 1950s, the Mau Mau launched one of the most severe internal wars in Kenya, aimed at removing the British from the country. Although the war was mainly fought in the countryside and mountains surrounding Nairobi, the British launched sweeps of the city to make mass arrests. Africans were the main target of the sweeps—in particular Kikuyu Africans, a somewhat militant interest group focused on such issues as land scarcity, labor passes, regressive taxation, and inadequate educational and employment opportunities. The Mau Mau were defeated only after troops were sent from Britain to
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Nairobi
A statue of Kenya’s first president, Jomo Kenyatta (1890–1978). (Betty Press; Woodfin Camp)
Kenya. By 1954 the British enacted Operation “Anvil,” an effort to rid Nairobi of Mau Mau supporters. More than 30,000 arrests were made, most of them Kikuyu; of these, 16,000 were detained as active Mau Mau supporters. In 1956, Dedan Kimathi, recognized as the leader of the Mau Mau, was captured, tried, and found guilty; in 1957, he was executed by the British in a Nairobi prison.
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Also in 1957, the first elections of African members of the Legislative Council were held. Eight African members were elected and chose not to cooperate with the colonial administration by advocating free and direct elections without preference given to any racial group. In 1958, the eight African council members boycotted council proceedings in a protest against the Lennox-Boyd Constitution, which
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Nairobi emphasized a multiracial Legislative Council. They also called for the release of Jomo Kenyatta, who had been arrested as a Mau Mau leader and sentenced to seven years of hard labor in 1952. In 1960 both the Kenya African National Union (KANU) and the Kenya African Democratic Union (KADU) were formed. In February 1961 primary and general elections were held under the Lancaster House Constitution. KANU won 19 seats and KADU 11. Although still detained, Jomo Kenyatta was named as president of KANU. By October, Kenyatta was released and assumed the presidency. Between February and April 1962, the second Lancaster House Conference was held in London. A self-government “framework” constitution was agreed upon and drawn to include representation from both political parties. By 1963 Kenya achieved internal self-government with Kenyatta as the first prime minister. The third Lancaster House Conference was held to finalize the constitution for the granting of independence; the conference also declared Kenya a dominion. On December 12, 1963, Kenya finally became an independent state. President Kenyatta died in 1978 and was succeeded by his vice president, Daniel arap Moi. Moi became both the second president and head of KANU. Sworn in for a five-year term, he ruled as a dictator, and his government was marked by human rights abuses,
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corruption, ethnic clashes, economic deterioration, and inept governance. In January 1993, Moi was sworn in for his fourth five-year term in office. By July public rallies were being held to protest Moi’s human rights abuses and to demand constitutional reforms. For the first time in Kenya, the police entered All Saints Cathedral in Nairobi and beat the demonstrators seeking sanctuary there. One of the most shocking singleday events in Nairobi’s history was the U.S. Embassy bombing on August 7, 1998. Nairobians were stunned by the tragedy, in particular because the terrorist attack had nothing to do with their country. In simultaneous attacks on the U.S. Embassies in Nairobi and Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, 227 people were killed, including 12 Americans, and over 5,000 injured. The bulk of those injured and killed were Kenyans as the U.S. Embassy was located at a busy intersection near the railway station. A neighboring four-story building collapsed during the mid-morning workday attack. The attacks were apparently orchestrated by Osama bin Laden, a wealthy Saudi Arabian who has dedicated his life to attacking American interests. In the aftermath of the bombing, Kenyan and other governments worked closely to rescue survivors, find victims, and apprehend suspects. 7
Government
Nairobi is the main administrative center for the national government. The mayor and the city commission are
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Nairobi responsible for management of the city. Nevertheless, the central government is very strong, leaving the Nairobi local government with little power. 8
Public Safety
Crime is a growing problem. The “City in the Sun” has earned itself the dubious unofficial nickname of “Nairobbery.” Petty crime is rife and serious crimes are becoming more frequent. The chief causes for rising crime rates are the breakdown of the traditional social values, a tense political situation, and high unemployment. In 1998, two vehicles a day were stolen in Kenya. Due to the high incidence of car theft and car jackings, the insurance companies have for years been threatening to discontinue auto insurance because too many claims have made the business unprofitable. Auto insurance premiums are currently ten percent of the value of the vehicles per year (that is, if an auto costs $20,000, the owner pays $2,000 per year in insurance). Ironically, public safety has been weakened by the state, the institution entrusted to provide domestic security. Violent political conflicts between various political and ethnic groups accompanied Kenya’s transition to multiparty politics. These conflicts followed threats by high-ranking government officials directed at the Kikuyu community and caused opponents of the government to charge that the state was behind a campaign of “ethnic cleansing” (genocide) in the Rift Valley
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province. Since the colonial era the state has arrested, harassed, and tortured political dissidents. Some Nairobi businesses, especially those associated with the political opposition, have been ransacked by state security officials. Political tensions have led to rioting, demonstrations, and violent conflicts between rival political factions in Nairobi. The relationship between the police and citizens is not good. There is a widespread belief that the police cause more problems than they solve. Through soliciting bribes and police brutality, the effectiveness of the force has been weakened. Probably because of this, most wealthy people find it necessary to hire their own private security guards, and there are many private security companies, such as Ultimate Security, Total Security, and Securicor. 9
Economy
Kenya has the most vibrant economy in East Africa, and Nairobi is the main commercial center of the country. Nairobi has a well-developed infrastructure, including modern financial and communications systems. Leading domestic (Kenya Commercial Bank) and international banks (Barclays, Citibank, Standard Chartered) operate out of Nairobi. Kenya also has a relatively well-developed industrial base, which accounts for some 20 percent of the gross domestic product (GDP). Nairobi is also the largest industrial center. The principal products include processed food, beer, vehicles, soaps,
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Nairobi construction material, engineering, textiles, and chemicals. There is also a thriving sector that provides employment to carpenters, metal workers, furniture makers, vehicle repairmen, and retailers. The cornerstone of Kenya’s economy is agriculture, which employs around 80 percent of the population, contributes 29 percent of the GDP, and accounts for over 50 percent of the country’s export earnings. The areas around Nairobi are prime agricultural lands. The principal food crops are maize, sorghum, cassava, beans, and fruit. Cash crops, such as coffee, are grown by small-scale farmers. Horticulture is a new agricultural growth sector. Flower exports are an important source of foreign exchange. With a well-developed system of hotels and top-rate tour companies and the country’s spectacular game parks and beautiful coast, tourism is an important part of Kenya’s economy. It has replaced coffee as the country’s largest foreign exchange earner. Nairobi is the center for many tour companies and travel agencies. City hotels range from low cost budget to luxury and offer good value and excellent service. 10
Environment
Nairobi is well endowed with a pleasant environment that preserves much of its pristine natural beauty. Ponds, seasonal springs, rivers, flooded grasslands, and swamps abound. Unlike other major cities, Nairobi is not situated on a large river or near the sea.
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Nevertheless, several streams criss-cross the city. Streams running from the Ngong Hills to the south and the ridges to the north become the Athi and Nairobi Rivers. Occasionally hippos and crocodiles can be spotted in the Athi River. Other important sources of water for Nairobi are the Chania and Thika Rivers. There is also the manmade Thika dam, which was constructed as a water reservoir. Natural springs feed a number of small swamps in secluded hollows. In addition, temporary wetlands are created with the coming of each rainy season. The planting of eucalyptus trees, however, has drained most of these springs. Nairobi National Park is another preservation of natural environment. It is covered by a highland forest of hardwoods. A spectrum of birds and animals find their home in the park. The park itself was established in 1948 as an effort by the government to preserve the remaining natural beauty of Nairobi. Nairobi has a bustling population growth. Rapid urbanization and industrialization consume a lot of natural resources, causing alarming environmental degradation. Construction places a very heavy burden on natural resources. Sand is an important construction material; thus, all rivers in Nairobi have been extensively excavated in search of sand. The result has been serious soil erosion. Timber is also used in construction, causing depletion of forests surrounding the city. Additionally, Nairobi attracts hundreds of new immigrants daily. This has an
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Nairobi impact on the environment as service struggles to keep pace with rapid population growth. The city’s sewage system frequently breaks down, adversely affecting the environment. 11
Shopping
A wide variety of shopping experiences can be found in Nairobi. It is a good place to pick up souvenirs and handicrafts. All sorts of goods can be obtained from vendors, kiosks, boutiques, small shops, department stores, and malls. Souvenirs and handicrafts can be purchased all over Nairobi. The city market on Muindi Mbingu Street has a good range of items from souvenir kiondo (colorful woven sisal bags), jewelry, wood, and soapstone carvings to everyday goods like meat, fish, and fruits. However, shopping at city market will test any shopper’s bargaining abilities. On Tuesdays there is a Masai market (which is an informal market) at Kenyatta Avenue near the roundabout on Uhuru Highway. There Masai women sell beaded jewelry, gourds, baskets, and other Masai crafts. The Kigali market, between Kigali Road and Tubman Road, is an overpopulated tourist spot. All kinds of souvenirs can be found there, and if the shopper’s bargaining skills are sharp, some good deals can be obtained. Safari wear, Tshirts, wood carvings, and better assortments of jewelry can be found at a number of downtown shops situated along the major roads of Kenyatta Avenue, Koinange Street, and Kimathi
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Open markets like this one are common in Nairobi. Everything from souvenirs to fresh fish can be purchased from street vendors. (Christina Thompson; Woodfin Camp)
Street. More upscale handicrafts, artwork, and jewelry from all over Africa can be found at the African Heritage Center on Kenyatta Avenue. The appropriately named Biashara (Business) Street is the core of downtown Nairobi’s shopping district; it is made up of endless small shops and cafes. In the Langata area, the Ostrich Park has a craft center with an artisans workshop where passersby can see items being made and enjoy a nice cafe. The Yaya and Sarit Centers are wellknown shopping malls located outside
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Nairobi of the city center. Uchumi supermarkets, located throughout Nairobi, cater to grocery shopping needs, as do stalls that sell fresh vegetables, fruits, and meat. 12
Education
During the colonial era, education was segregated along racial lines with schools built for Europeans, Asians (those from the Indian Subcontinent), and Africans. With independence, the school system was desegregated. Education is seen as an important avenue for upward social mobility and is very competitive. In Nairobi, even at the preschool level, parents are interested in enrolling their children in schools with strong academic reputations. Competition becomes especially intense for places in top government and private high schools. A student’s educational future is largely determined by results on national exams taken after primary school and high school. Many of Nairobi’s approximately 77 private secondary schools and 44 state-run schools are among the country’s best. Nairobi is well served by institutions of higher learning. The oldest university in Kenya is Nairobi University. Another leading state-related university is Kenyatta University, which grew out of a teachers college. A number of private universities were opened in the 1980s and 1990s. Nairobi Polytechnic and Utalii College are other leading learning institutions. Utalii College was started in 1969 to provide highly trained manpower for Kenya’s tourist
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industry. The college has a strong reputation and runs its own hotel in Ruaraka on the outskirts of the city. 13
Health Care
The best medical facilities in East Africa can be found in Nairobi. Two private hospitals with strong reputations are the Nairobi and the Aga Khan. Kenya’s main teaching hospital is Kenyatta, though its reputation regarding patient care is not as strong as in the past. Nairobi and all of Kenya are also served by “Flying Doctors,” an insurance organization that provides expert care and medical evacuations should a health emergency occur. However, if a patient does not have the foresight to join Flying Doctors, they must bear the full cost of the often very expensive services they receive should they become sick. In addition to hospitals, there are numerous private clinics and practices that serve the capital city’s population. 14
Media
Nairobi is the media hub of East Africa. The Nation Group of Companies, which publishes newspapers and runs radio and television stations, has its headquarters in the city. In addition to the Kenyan daily newspaper, The Nation, the company publishes the East African, a weekly newspaper that covers the region of Kenya, Uganda, and Tanzania. The Nation Group also publishes the Taifa Leo, a Swahili-language daily newspaper. Kenya’s oldest newspaper is the Standard. It is a daily English-language
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Nairobi newspaper that is well known for its business coverage. The Standard Group also owns Kenya Television Network, the country’s first private television station, based in Nairobi. Kenya’s third most popular newspaper is closely affiliated with the ruling Kenya African National Union and is called the Kenya Times. Kenya Times Ltd., the parent company, also publishes the Swahili language Kenya Leo. Other major media companies operating in the capital are the government-owned Voice of Kenya radio station and the government owned television station, Kenya Broadcasting Company, which first began broadcasting in 1961. Popular magazines published in Nairobi include the Weekly Review, which provides in-depth local news; Viva (for women); Drum; and a puzzle magazine called Chemsha Bongo, which translated from Swahili means Boil Your Brain. 15
Sports
Kenya has a strong reputation for sports, and Nairobi is the center of the sporting scene. In particular, Kenya is well known for its world-class runners. Kenyan runners exploded onto the international scene during the 1968 Mexico City Olympic Games when three distance runners won gold medals, including Kipchoge “Kip” Keino, who beat the American favorite Jim Ryun in the 1500-meter race. Since 1968, Kenyans have dominated middle-
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and long-distance running at the international level. National track and crosscountry meets are usually held at the national stadium or at the Ngong Race Course in Nairobi. These events traditionally produce a new group of worldclass runners, ready to challenge their already-established peers. The most popular sport in the country and the capital city is soccer. Nairobi has three large stadiums (Nyayo, City, and Kasarani) in which domestic league and international matches are played. Two clubs with large followings in Nairobi are AFC and Gor Mahia, which are both nationally popular clubs with home bases of support in western Kenya. Recently, a Nairobi-based team, Mathare United, has taken the soccer scene by storm. Named after one of Nairobi’s most notorious slums and made up of young impoverished players, Mathare United is a formidable challenger to the traditionally strong teams of Gor Mahia, AFC, and Kenya Breweries. Motor sports are popular in Kenya. One of the biggest sporting events is the Kenya Safari Rally, which takes place around Easter. The rally, which starts and finishes in Nairobi, follows a route that covers 4,000 kilometers (2,486 miles). Large crowds follow the event in the rural areas and the cities. During the rally, daily results dominate radio, print, and television news coverage as Kenyans cheer for the local heroes competing against top international drivers.
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Nairobi well-maintained country clubs in Nairobi that offer good golfing facilities. Muthaiga Country Club, the old premier settler club, has a top-flight golf course as well as other sporting facilities. Other prominent clubs that have golf courses are Karen Country Club, Limuru Country Club, Royal Nairobi Golf Club, Sigma Golf Club, and the Railway Golf Club. 16
Kids play on a monument in Uhuru Park. (Betty Press; Woodfin Camp)
Other sports gaining popularity in the nation’s capital are rugby, cricket, and field hockey. These games, previously the domain of Nairobi’s settler and Asian communities, are becoming popular among Africans. With increasing numbers of participants, Kenya’s rugby, field hockey, and cricket teams have done well in international competitions. Polo is often played on the weekends in Jamhuri park. For the country’s affluent, golf is a popular sport. There are a number of
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Parks and Recreation
There are a wide variety of parks and recreational activities in Nairobi. The most spectacular, Nairobi National Park, is located just five miles south from the city center. The 117-squarekilometer (45-square-mile) park contains impala, Grant’s gazelle, Thomson’s gazelle, hartebeest, eland, kudu, zebra, wildebeest, giraffes, birds, rhinos, and hippos. Probably the most visited game park in East Africa, it provides a wonderful opportunity to view the wildlife of Africa silhouetted against the Nairobi skyline. It is open daily from dawn to 7:00 PM. Uhuru Park and Uhuru Gardens are located along Uhuru Highway, not far from Nairobi University and the city center. Uhuru Park and Gardens are a large urban green space. The Nairobi Arboretum, also located near Nairobi University, provides a restful setting for a walk among its 300 different species of trees. City Park, located two miles north of the city center, is a well-preserved remnant of the woodlands that covered the area before the construc-
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Nairobi
Costumed dancers perform during festivals in downtown Nairobi. (Betty Press; Woodfin Camp)
tion of the railway. City Park features well-kept lawns, gardens of rare plants, playgrounds, and sports fields. Attending horse races at Ngong Racecourse is a popular weekend activity. Open almost every Sunday, the racecourse is set amid green grass, and it hosts a beautiful old grandstand. 17
Performing Arts
Popular music is an important part of Nairobi’s cultural life. Many musicians sing in Kenyan languages, such as Luo, Kamba, Luhyia, and Kikuyu. Other pop musicians, some from neighboring
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countries, sing in Swahili. Pop music in Nairobi is heavily influenced by the benga beat, which originated in western Kenya among the Luo people. Music from the Democratic Republic of Congo and Tanzania are also major influences. Gospel and choir are popular musical genres. Choral music concerts, organized by the Nairobi music society, can often be heard at All Saints Cathedral. Visiting jazz and classical musicians occasionally hold concerts at the Kenya National Theater. Drama and plays are very important forms of expression. In Nairobi,
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Nairobi two resident theater companies offer performances. One is the Kenya National Theater, located across from the Norfolk Hotel and next to the University of Nairobi. The other is called the Professional Center and is located on Parliament Road in the city center. Kenyatta University and the University of Nairobi have amateur theater groups that stage performances. Nairobi hosts the national school drama and music competitions at the Kenyatta Conference Center. These competitions, which start at the local level and culminate in the national finals, generate a great deal of national interest. 18
Libraries and Museums
Nairobi is home to a number of libraries and museums. The national archives are kept in the old Bank of India building, located in the central business district on Moi Avenue across from the Hilton Hotel. Apart from housing important historical documents, it features photographs and craft exhibits. The McMillan Memorial Library is also located in central Nairobi near the Jamia Mosque. This library is distinctive for its two large stone lions that guard its entrance steps. Inside is a display featuring the furniture of writer Karen Blixen, famous for her novel Out of Africa. The library has an extensive collection of books and newspapers. It also houses the parliamentary archives. For a fee, people can become members of the library and check out books.
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The Kenya National Museum has an excellent exhibit on pre-history based on the work of the famous Leaky family of anthropologists. There are also exhibits on insects, animal life, and Kenyan culture. The museum houses a display of Joy Adamson’s (naturalist and author of Born Free) paintings. Film screenings and public lectures sponsored by the museum are very popular. Across from the Kenya Museum is the Snake Farm, which features live specimens of snakes, lizards, chameleons, tortoises, turtles, and crocodiles found in Kenya. For people interested in trains, the Railway Museum, located near the Nairobi Train Station, features a display of locomotives that have operated in Kenya since the railway was built. A well-known part of Kenyan history is represented in the form of a carriage in which a man-eating lion killed and dragged away a railway worker during the line’s construction. In December 1898, lion attacks brought work on the railway to a halt 194 kilometers (121 miles) from the coast in what is now Tsavo National Park. Lion attacks, which usually consisted of a worker being dragged away from his tent in the night, resulted in a number of deaths. A major labor dispute threatened to erupt as the largely Indian workforce demanded to be returned home. Construction of the line was held up for three weeks as the lions were hunted and killed. Karen Blixen’s house, located in the fashionable suburb that bears her name, has been turned into a museum
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Nairobi in her honor. Not far away is the Langata Giraffe Center, which is mainly for children. The center is supported by the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife and is home to a number of giraffes that visitors can feed from raised wooden platforms. In addition to the giraffes, the center contains warthogs, bushbuck, and dikdik. The trees and shrubbery at the Giraffe Center are an ideal habitat for birds, and there are over 160 species. For those interested in bird watching, the Langata suburb is also home to a private bird sanctuary. Appointments must be made in advance, and all visitors are accompanied by an ornithologist. The Bomas of Kenya features performances of traditional songs and dances from Kenya’s various ethnic groups. It is located two kilometers (one mile) past the gate of Nairobi National Park in the Langata suburb. On the grounds is an open-air museum that depicts the traditional lifestyle of Kenya’s African ethnic groups.
ment Building, the City Market, and the National Museum. Trips to Nairobi National Park, the Giraffe Center, and the Karen Blixen Museum are also popular. The city offers a well-developed infrastructure, excellent hotels, and fine food. Nairobi has been host to numerous international conferences, conventions, and meetings. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY New Years Day
MARCH-APRIL Good Friday and Easter Monday Safari Rally Motor Sports
MAY Labor Day
JUNE Madaraka Day
SEPTEMBER Nairobi International Show
OCTOBER Kenyatta Day
DECEMBER Independence Day
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To u r i s m
Tourism is an important part of the Nairobi economy. With a well-developed system of hotels and top-rate tour companies, tourism has actually replaced coffee as the country’s largest foreign exchange earner. City hotels range from low cost budget to luxury. Trips to Kenya’s impressive game parks and beautiful coast can be arranged in the city. Tours of the city itself also can be arranged; tours of central Nairobi normally include visits to the Parlia-
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*Ramadan is also a national holiday. The date of this holiday depends on the sighting of the moon and varies from year to year.
21
Famous Citizens
As the political, cultural, and commercial center of Kenya, Nairobi has a long list of famous citizens. Many people living in Nairobi may identify their ancestral village as home; however, Nairobi is considered the second home, if not first home, for most of the country’s leading personalities.
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Nairobi A.M. Jevanjee (1861–1923), real estate tycoon and businessman who started the Africa Standard, Kenya’s first newspaper, created the Jevanjee Gardens, and served as a representative of the Indian community in the colonial Legislative Council.
Richard Leakey (b. 1944), palaeoathropologist who has served as director of the Kenya Department of Wildlife Services and who discovered c r a n i a o f Austro pithecus boisei (1969), Homo habilis (1972), and Homo erectus (1975).
Baroness Karen Blixen-Finecke (1885– 1962), writer, also known by her pen name Isak Dinesen, who moved to Nairobi in 1918 and wrote the novel Out of Africa.
Meja Mwangi (b. 1948), outstanding writer, winner of the Jomo Kenyatta Prize.
Jomo Kenyatta (1890–1978), Kenya’s first president and a dominant figure in th e Ken yan n ation alist movement, jailed in the 1950s by the colonial government for alleged connections to the Mau Mau.
Websites
Jaramogi Oginga Odinga (1911–94), famous politician and one time vicepresident, who was dismissed from the government for quarreling with Kenyatta, but who remained a leader of the political opposition until his death. Daniel arap Moi (b. 1924), president of Kenya, who took over power in 1978 when Kenyatta died. Tom Mboya (1930–69), staunch trade unionist, founder of the Kenya Federation of Labor, and principal leader in Kenya’s independence movement, who was assassinated in 1969. Ngugi wa Thiong`o (b. 1938), famous novelist imprisoned and exiled for political reasons.
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For Further Study
Kenya Web. [Online] Available http:// www.kenyaweb.com (accessed February 5, 2000). Living Encyclopedia for Kenya. [Online] Available http://www.sas.upenn.edu/ African_studies/NEH/Ke.html (accessed February 5, 2000). Nation Newspaper. [Online] Available http:// www.nationaudio.com/News/DailyNation/ Today/ (accessed February 5, 2000).
Government Offices Kenya Embassy in Washington D.C. 2249 R. Street N.W. Washington D.C. 20008 (202) 387-6101
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Kenya Government Tourist Office and Consulates: 424 Madison Ave New York, NY 10017 (212) 486-1300 Dohery Plaza Suite 160 9150 Wilshire Boulevard Los Angeles CA 90212 (310) 274-6635
Publications Nation Newspapers PO Box 49010 Nairobi Kenya 254-2-221222
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Nairobi Weekly Review Ltd. PO Box 42271 Nairobi Kenya 254-2-251560
Books Cohen, William, and E. S. Ohdiambo. Burying SM: The Politics of Knowledge and the Sociology of Power. Heinemann, 1992. Denison, Isak (Karen Blixen). Out of Africa and Shadows on the Grass. Vintage Books, 1989. Donelson, Linda. Out of Africa: Karen Blixen’s Untold Story. Coolsang List, 1998. Finlay, Hugh, and Geoff Crowther. Lonely Planet Kenya. Lonely Planet, 1997. Hauman, Mathew, and R. Van Eyndhoven. Africa Give me Your Eyes: Stories About Meeting People in Kenya. Source Books, 1997. Hodd, Michael. East Africa Handbook. Chicago: Passport Books, 1998.
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Hutton, J. Urban Challenges in East Africa. Nairobi: East Africa Publishing House, 1970. Huxley, Elspeth. Nine Faces of Kenya. London: Harvil, 1991. Lonely Planet. East Africa. Singapore: SNP Printing House, 1997. McHugh, Kathleen. (ed.) Kenya, Tanzania, Seychelles. London: Fodo Travel Publications, 1990. Mwangi, Meja. Going Down River Road. Heinemann, 1976. [Fiction] Ngugi wa Thiongo. A Grain of Wheat. Heinemann, 1994. [Fiction] Quick, T.L., (et al). Rhinos in the Rough: A Golfer`s Guide to Kenya. Nairobi: Kenways Publications, 1993. Robertson, Claire. Trouble Showed the Way: Women, Men, and Trade in the Nairobi Area 1890–1990. Bloomington, Indiana: Indiana University Press, 1997.
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Nashville Nashville, Tennessee, United States of America, North America Founded: 1779; Incorporated: 1784 Location: On the Cumberland River in Central Tennessee Motto: “Agriculture and Commerce” (state motto) Flag: Royal blue field with white center and gold elements on the city seal. Flower: Iris (state flower) Time Zone: 6 AM Central Standard Time (CST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: White, 74.1%; Black, 24.3%; Native American, 0.2%; Asian, 1.4% Elevation: 137 m (450 ft) Latitude and Longitude: 36º16'N, 86º78'W Coastline: None Climate: Temperate climate with hot, humid summers and occasional snow in winter Annual Mean Temperature: 15.3ºC (59.5ºF); January 3.7ºC (38.7ºF); July 26.3ºC (79.4ºF) Seasonal Average Snowfall: 27.2 cm (10.7 in); Average Annual Precipitation (total of rainfall and melted snow): 121.9 cm (48 in) Government: Mayor-council Weights and measures: Standard U.S. Monetary Units: Standard U.S. Telephone Area Codes: 615 Postal Codes: 37201–49
1
Introduction
Located in the rolling hills of middle Tennessee, Nashville is the state capital. Home of the Grand Ole Opry since the 1920s, it is the country-andwestern music capital of the world. The city of Andrew Jackson, it combines the grace and warmth of the Old South with the economic vitality of today’s Sun Belt states. The rising popularity of country music in the past two decades has created a booming entertainment industry in Nashville, spurring tourism and attracting new residents with jobs at all levels of the music business. The city retains its traditional strength in
the trucking and tors and has also privatized health and merger of Health Care.
financial services secbecome the capital of care with the growth HCA and Columbia
As home to the first public education system in the South, as well as the site of the pilot project on which the nationwide Head Start programs were modeled, Nashville is also a leader in the field of education. When it merged its city and county governments in the 1960s, the city also became a pioneer in the development of metropolitan government.
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Nashville 2
Getting There
Nashville, which has one of the largest geographical areas of any U.S. city, is located in central Tennessee, on both banks of the Cumberland River and surrounded on three sides by the Highland Rim, which rises up to 122 meters (400 feet) above the elevation level of the city. Highways More than 129 kilometers (80 miles) of interstate highway pass through Nashville. The major interstates are I-65 (north-south) and I-40 (east-west between Knoxville and Memphis and further in both directions). I265 forms a ring around Downtown Nashville, and I-440 encircles midtown Nashville. I-24, running southeast to northwest, also leads into the metropolitan area, merging into I-40 to the south and I-65 to the north. Bus and Railroad Service Interstate bus service to all parts of the country is available on Greyhound, whose terminal is downtown on Eighth Avenue South. Amtrak service is not directly available in Nashville; the closest connection is through Memphis. Airport Originally constructed as a Works Progress Administration (WPA) project and opened as Berry Field in 1937, today Nashville International Airport provides air service to almost 90 cities in the United States, Canada, and Mexico, averaging 388 arriving and depart-
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Nashville Population Profile City Proper Population: 505,000 Area: 1,225 sq km (473 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 74.1% white; 24.3% black; 0.2% Native American; and 1.4% Asian Nicknames: Music City USA, Garden Spot of the World, The Athens of the South
Metropolitan Area Population: 1,134,524 Description: Nashville and Davidson County Area: 10,549 sq km (4,073 sq mi) World population rank1: approx. 320 Percentage of national population2: <1% Ethnic composition: 82.6% white; 15.7% black; and 1.4% Asian/Pacific Islander ——— 1. The Nashville metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the United States’ total population living in the Nashville metropolitan area.
ing flights daily. The airport, which covers 76,178 square meters (820,000 square feet) and has 47 carrier gates, is serviced by 16 carriers. In 1998, Nashville International Airport handled over eight million passengers. Shipping Nashville’s extensive network of interstate highways and 100 freight terminals have made the city an important regional trucking center, and it is served by 135 trucking carriers. The city is also a rail hub for the Southeast, with local railroads handling about 80 freight trains per day. Another major mode of shipping in the area is barge
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Nashville
traffic on the Cumberland River, which connects Nashville to both the Mississippi River and the Gulf of Mexico. 3
Getting Around
Nashville is laid out in a grid pattern that straddles and is oriented to the Cumberland River. Numbered streets run parallel to the river in a northwest to southeast direction while
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the perpendicular named streets run southwest to northeast. Bridges cross the river at Jefferson and Spring streets, the James Robertson Parkway, Union and Woodland streets, and Shelby Avenue. Bus and Commuter Rail Service The Metropolitan Transit Authority of Nashville operates hourly bus service
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Nashville to most areas of the city, as well as a motorized trolley in the downtown area during daytime hours. Private automobiles are the preferred mode of transit for most Nashville residents, and use of public transportation is relatively light. Sightseeing A one-and-a-half hour guided walking tour of the city beginning at Fort Nashborough is offered by the nonprofit Historic Nashville, Inc. on Saturday mornings in May through October. The Metropolitan Nashville Historical Commission provides maps for selfguided walking and driving tours, including the African-American Historic Sites Tour and the Battle of Nashville Driving Tour. Commercial companies offering tours include Grand Old Opry Tours, Johnny Walker Tours, and Country & Western/Gray Line Tours. 4
People
In 1990, the population of Nashville was 488,000, with the following racial and ethnic composition: 74.1 percent were white; 24.3 percent black; 1.4 percent Asian; and 0.2 percent Native American. The population estimate for 1994 was 505,000. The population of the Nashville Metropolitan Statistical Area was reported as 985,026 in 1990 and estimated at 1,134,524 as of 1997. The region’s racial composition was listed by the U.S. Census Bureau in 1996 as 82.6 percent white; 15.7 percent black; and 1.4 percent Asian/Pacific Islander.
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The percentage of residents of Hispanic origin (an ethnic rather than a racial designation) was 1.1 percent. 5
Neighborhoods
Dominated by the state capitol building and War Memorial Plaza, downtown Nashville is located near the riverfront and the site of historic Fort Nashborough, built by Nashville’s early settlers. In addition to the capitol, the city’s historic landmarks, and its older commercial buildings, this area is home to Bicentennial Capitol Mall State Park, commemorating Tennessee history with gardens and stone inscriptions and located at the foot of the capitol. Also located in the downtown area are a two-story shopping arcade between Fourth and Fifth Avenues, built in 1903; the Printer’s Alley Historic District and the Nashville Farmers Market; the Ryman Auditorium, original home of the Grand Ole Opry; and two other well-known musical landmarks—Ernest Tubb’s Record Shop and Gruhn Guitars. Riverfront Park, at First Avenue and Broadway, is a popular venue for musical events. In recent years, lower Broadway and Printer’s Alley have developed into the commercialized and crowded area known as “the District,” which attracts crowds of both tourists and locals. Midtown Nashville, encompasses an area bounded roughly by I-70 on the north, Fourteenth Avenue on the east, Blair Boulevard on the south, and Natchez Trace and Centennial Park on the west. This district is home to both
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Nashville
City Fact Comparison Nashville (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
505,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1779
753 BC
723 BC
$172
$129
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$72
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$40
$56
$59
$62
$2
$14
$15
$16
114
$173
$246
$207
1
13
20
11
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.) Total daily costs
$193
Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
Akhbar El Yom/ The Tennessean Al Akhbar 184,979
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1812
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
Vanderbilt University and Belmont University, as well as Centennial Park. The Music Row area on Sixteenth and Seventeenth Avenues includes a number of country music-oriented museums and souvenir shops, the Country Music Hall of Fame, and a variety of recording studios and music publishers. The area north of I-40 is home to a historic visitors center built at the site of the first Dutch settlement in the region. Tennessee State University and Fisk University are also located in this area, as is the Nashville Zoo. To the east of I-65 and north of I-40 is Opryland USA, a large music and entertainment
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complex that includes the Grand Ole Opry House, an associated theme park and museum, a theater, and the studios of TNN (The Nashville Network) television, scene of regular performance tapings open to the public. South and west of the city lie natural and recreational areas, such as the Cheekwood mansion and gardens, Percy Warner Park and Golf Course, and Radnor Lake State Natural Area. Residential areas are primarily found in the north and east, including the suburbs of Belle Meade, Green Hills, and Harpeth Hills.
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Nashville
Nashville is the country music capital of the world. (Timothy Eagan; Woodfin Camp)
6
History
The area of present-day Nashville was occupied by Cherokee and Chickasaw Indians when the first Europeans—French traders—arrived there in the eighteenth century and built trading posts. The first permanent settlement was founded at Christmas time of 1779 by pioneer families from North Carolina and eastern Tennessee led by James Robertson. A second party led by John Donelson arrived the following spring, and the new settlement, consisting of log cabins, was named Nashborough for General Francis Nash, a Revolutionary War hero. Most of the
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settlers retreated to Kentucky later the same year as a result of Indian attacks, incited by the British as part of the ongoing Revolutionary War (1776– 1783). Nevertheless, the remnant of the community was incorporated in 1784, and its name changed to the less British-sounding “Nashville.” The settlement prospered, as schools, churches, and businesses were founded, and Tennessee gained its statehood in 1796. In the early years of the nineteenth century, a young lawyer named Andrew Jackson (1767–1845) gained increasing prominence in Nashville as a military
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Nashville hero of the Creek War and the War of 1812, a member of Congress, and, by 1830, the seventh president of the United States. During this period, steamboats were introduced to Nashville, and the city became a center for river trade. New waves of settlers from the east, as well as immigrants from England, Scotland, and Ireland, boosted its population and work force. In 1843 Nashville was named the capital of Tennessee. In 1861 Nashville’s citizens joined their fellow Tennesseans in voting to secede from the Union, and Tennessee became the eleventh and last state in the Confederacy. The following year, the city was invaded by Union forces, which occupied it for the next three years, commandeering its railroads and river transport facilities. Tennessee’s Confederates made a final, unsuccessful attempt to retake the city in Battle of Nashville—one of the bloodiest of the war—in December 1864. By the mid-1870s the city had largely recovered from the war and began to enjoy consistent economic progress and development, accompanied by cultural and educational advances, including the establishment of Vanderbilt and Fisk universities. A milestone in the city’s postwar progress was the 1897 Tennessee Centennial Exposition. The Union Station railroad terminal was built for the exposition, and a replica of the Parthenon, also built for the occasion, was later duplicated in the permanent version that still stands today. Also on display was
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the technological innovation of electric lighting. In the twentieth century, both financial services and manufacturing thrived in Nashville, the former led by the National Life and Accident and Life & Casualty insurance companies, and the latter boosted by wartime demand during the world wars. It was on National Life’s radio station, WSM, that the Grand Ole Opry broadcasts were inaugurated and grew into a popular local phenomenon. In the 1930s and 1940s, federal projects, including the Works Progress Administration (WPA) and the Tennessee Valley Authority (TVA), brought new jobs and infrastructure modernization to the city. Nashville also benefited greatly from the development of the federal highway system, which made the city a trucking and rail freight center. The TVA made electricity for home heating available in the 1940s. In the postwar years, the new highways and the ascendance of the automobile brought suburbanization to Nashville, as well as other cities throughout the country, and city services became increasingly fragmented. In the 1950s a pioneering plan for consolidated city-county administration was proposed; it became a reality in 1963 with the formation of the Nashville-Davidson metropolitan government. Efficient government has enabled the city to launch urban rehabilitation and development projects that have boosted the economy by spurring downtown retail and commercial development, as well as tourism.
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Nashville With the introduction of countryand-western music into the commercial mainstream since the 1970s, Nashville has won new prominence as one of the nation’s musical capitals. Even though its traditional insurance, publishing, education, and health sectors remained strong, Nashville in the late 1990s was positioned as a major sports and entertainment venue with the construction of a major new sports arena and other development projects. 7
Government
The Nashville Metropolitan Charter, drafted in 1962, made Nashville a leader in the development of a consolidated city-county government. The Nashville-Davidson County metropolitan government was inaugurated in 1963 and is still in place, headed by a mayor and a 40-member metropolitan council consisting of five members at large and 35 representatives elected by district. Its bi-monthly meetings are televised on a cable government-access channel. 8
Public Safety
In 1995, Nashville-Davidson’s incidence of reported violent crimes per 100,000 population was 1,790, including 20 murders, 93 rapes, and 511 robberies. The incidence of property crimes was 8,920 and included 1,573 burglaries and 1,560 motor vehicle thefts. 9
Economy
Banks and insurance companies were among Nashville’s first businesses
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and have remained an important part of the economy. Banks headquartered in the city include Bank of Nashville, First American, and Citizen’s Bank. Nashville is also home to the securities firm J. C. Bradford. American General Life Insurance has remained in the city after acquiring two other locally based companies and is now linked to Nashville’s entertainment industry as a subsidiary of the Gaylord Entertainment Network, which owns the Ryman Auditorium, former home of the Grand Ole Opry, and the Opryland Theme Park. Nashville is also a center of the private healthcare industry as home to Columbia-HCA, the largest operator of for-profit hospitals in the country. This sector has also gone in new directions, spinning off companies in child care and prison management. Nashville’s location in the Sun Belt puts it in prime manufacturing territory. Nissan Motors located its first U.S. plant here in the early 1980s. In the 1990s, a Saturn plant was operating in nearby Spring Hill, and the area is also home to a Bridgestone-Firestone plant. Media and communications are represented by BellSouth, headquartered downtown, and the publishing and electronic media firm Ingram Industries. 10
Environment
Nashville is situated amid rolling hills and abundant natural vegetation. The Highland Rim forms a natural escarpment around the city, encircling
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Nashville
The increasing popularity of country music has boosted Nashville’s economy. Performers dance on the “Showboat” at the Grand Ole Opry. (Al Stephenson; Woodfin Camp)
it on three sides. Nashville extends across both banks of the Cumberland River, and there are two lakes—Old Hickory Lake and the J. Percy Priest Lake—east of the city. 11
Shopping
As in many other American cities, much of Nashville’s retail trade has relocated to malls in the surrounding areas. Urban shopping centers include Church Street Centre, in the heart of the city’s traditional retail district; Market Street, which houses a variety of small shops and restaurants; the Eighth Avenue antique district; and Hillsboro
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Village, a two-block shopping area with clothing, housewares, crafts, and other retailers. Suburban malls in the Nashville area include Bellevue Center, Coolspings Galleria, Hickory Hollow Mall, the Mall at Green Hills, and One Hundred Oaks Mall. Souvenirs can be purchased at the Country Music Hall of Fame and the Centennial Park museum shop. With an encyclopedia inventory that occupies three floors, Gruhn Guitars is considered by some to be the best guitar store in the country.
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Nashville 12
Education
The nickname “Athens of the South” comes not only from the Nashville’s replica of the Greek Parthenon but also from its reputation for educational excellence. It was home to the first public education system in the South, established in 1855. One-hundred years later, three prominent African-American residents of Nashville mounted one of the nation’s first school desegregation lawsuits. Nashville was also a pioneer in early-childhood education for disadvantaged children—the prototype for Head Start programs was developed by a teacher there. The Metropolitan Nashville Public Schools, the nation’s forty-ninth largest urban school district, are attended by 83 percent of the city’s school-aged children. The system encompasses 127 schools, including magnet programs, special education schools, alternative schools, and an adult education center. Total enrollment in 1998–99 was 69,400. The racial and ethnic breakdown was 47.7 percent white, 45.4 percent black, 3.3 percent Hispanic, 3.2 percent Asian, and 0.2 percent Native American. The schools are administered by a nine-member elected school board and an appointed director of schools. Nashville is home to more than a dozen institutions of higher education, including Vanderbilt University, Tennessee State University, Scarritt College, George Peabody College, Belmont University, and Fisk University. Vanderbilt University, founded in 1873 and
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funded by rail and shipping magnate Cornelius Vanderbilt, is a private teaching and research university. Its ten schools, including schools of engineering, nursing, law, and medicine, enroll approximately 10,000 students in undergraduate, graduate, and professional programs. Fisk University, established in 1866, was one of the nation’s first black colleges. Tennessee State University, a coeducational land-grant university located on a 182-hectare (450-acre) campus west of downtown Nashville, enrolls some 8,200 students. It is one of 46 public colleges and universities administered by the Tennessee Board of Regents. 13
Health Care
Vanderbilt University Medical Center (VUMC) encompasses Vanderbilt Hospital, the Vanderbilt Clinic, the university’s schools of medicine and nursing, and a variety of other facilities. VUMC employs over 8,000 persons, making it middle Tennessee’s largest private employer and the second largest in the state. Vanderbilt University Hospital has 658 beds housed in a twintowered facility that is also home to the region’s only Level I trauma center and Level I burn center. Several of the hospital’s departments, including cancer, endocrinology, and gynecology, have won nationwide recognition. In 1997, the Vanderbilt clinic recorded nearly 29,000 admissions and scheduled 473,000 outpatient visits. Specialty clinics associated with VUMC include the
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Nashville
Nashville lives up to its nickname, the “Athens of the South,” not only because of the replica of the Greek Parthenon, but also because of its dedication to excellence in education. (Jodi Cobb; Woodfin Camp)
Henry-Joyce Cancer Clinic and Clinical Research Center. The School of Medicine was ranked fourteenth nationwide in a U.S. News & World Report survey in 1997. Other major hospitals in the Nashville area include Baptist Hospital, Metropolitan General Hospital, Nashville Memorial, St. Thomas Hospital, and the following Columbia Health System hospitals: Centennial, Hendersonville, Southern Hills, and Summit. 14
Media
The Tennessean, a morning daily, is Nashville’s major newspaper. In 1998 it has a circulation of 184,979 during the week and 269,959 on Sunday. Nashville
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also has a daily afternoon newspaper, the Nashville Banner, as well as a weekly alternative paper, the Nashville Scene, which covers local news and entertainment. Both the Metropolitan Times and Nashville Pride are weekly newspapers serving Nashville’s black community. Trade magazines published in Nashville focus on insurance, banking, agriculture, music, education, and other fields. All major television networks have affiliates in Nashville, which has a total of seven commercial television stations, and about 30 AM and FM radio stations provide news, music, and local features to the Nashville area.
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Sports
Nashville is home to the former Houston Oilers football team, now the Tennessee Titans, who began playing at the brand-new 67,000-seat Adelphia Coliseum stadium in 1999. The city also has a Triple-A minor league baseball team, the Nashville Sounds (the farm team for the Chicago White Sox), and a Central Hockey League team, the Nashville Night Hawks. College sports have an enthusiastic following in Nashville, home to both Vanderbilt University and Tennessee State University, both of which are known for their football teams and other sports. The Nashville Speedway hosts stock-car racing every weekend. Special sporting events held in Nashville annually include the Iroquois Memorial Steeplechase, held at Percy Warner Park each May, and the Sara Lee Classic Ladies Professional Golfer’s Association Tournament, also in May at Hermitage Golf Course. Pro wrestling is a popular spectator sport in the area. 16
Parks and Recreation
Nashville has about 70 city parks, both large and small, giving the city roughly 2,833 hectares (7,000 acres) of park land altogether. In addition, the surrounding areas include several state parks and nature reserves, such as Long Hunter and Radnor Lake. Nashville’s newest park is the 8hectare (19-acre) Bicentennial Capitol
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Mall State Park, downtown next to the capitol building. Built to celebrate the bicentennial of Tennessee’s statehood in 1997, the park features river fountains, an amphitheater, and a 61-meter (200-foot) map of Tennessee carved in granite. Park rangers offer organized tours of the park. The Tennessee centennial celebration 100 years earlier also left Nashville with a park: Centennial Park at West End and Twenty-Fifth Avenue, whose best-known feature is its replica of the Greek Parthenon. The park also includes a small lake, statues, sports facilities, and a band shell. The adjoining Percy Warner and Edwin Warner Parks (covering approximately 834 hectares/2,060 acres combined) make up one of the country’s largest urban parks and offer riding and biking trails, a nature center, picnic shelters, playing fields, and a racing course. Other city parks include Reservoir Park, Sevier Park, Shelby Park, and Two Rivers Park. Adding to the city’s green space are the Cheekwood Botanical Gardens and International Garden. Bledsoe State Park, northeast of Nashville, offers lodging and campgrounds, horse trails, hiking, and swimming. Recreational activities are also offered at Long Hunter State Park about 30 minutes southeast of Nashville. Radnor Lake State Natural Area to the south is a nature preserve and sanctuary for observation, research, photography, and hiking. Swimming in the area’s pools, lakes, and rivers is the number-one recreational activity during Nashville’s
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Nashville
President Andrew Jackson’s (1767–1845) home, the Hermitage. (Timothy Eagan; Woodfin Camp)
hot, humid summer. The area’s rolling terrain is enjoyed by cyclists, equestrians, and golfers. Camping, boating, canoeing, and fishing are other popular outdoors activities in the region. 17
Performing Arts
Although known primarily as the capital of country-and-western music, Nashville also has regular classical music concerts by the Nashville Symphony and Nashville Opera. The music departments of the city’s universities also enrich the classical music scene
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through such resources as the Vanderbilt Orchestra and both student and faculty performances sponsored by Vanderbilt’s Blair School of Music and the Belmont University School of Music. In addition, the Friends of Music brings touring artists and ensembles to the city, and the Scarritt-Bennett Center Series features free performances by local musicians. Nashville’s theater troupes include the Tennessee Repertory Theater, Circle Players, Lakewood Theater Company, the Nashville Shakespeare Festival, and Mockingbird Public Theatre. The Amer-
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Nashville ican Negro Playwright Theater presents plays focusing on the African American experience and heritage, as does Blue Wave Productions. The Nashville Ballet has been offering regular dance concerts since the 1980s, and the Tennessee Dance Theater concentrates on modern dance. Touring dance groups are brought to Nashville in concert series sponsored by such groups as Friends of Music, the Tennessee Performing Arts Center, and Vanderbilt University. As the home of the Grand Ole Opry and the major center for recordings of country-and-western music, Nashville is the world’s undisputed capital of country music, a position celebrated in the city’s nickname of “Music City USA.” Live performances by both established and up-and-coming country artists can be heard weekly at the Grand Ole Opry House in Opryland USA. Country, folk, and rock concerts still take place at historic Ryman Auditorium, home of the Opry from its inception in the 1920s until the 1970s and newly restored in 1994. Other Nashville venues for country music are the “Midnight Jamboree” at Ernest Tubb’s Record Shop, which is broadcast live on WSM-AM radio; taping sessions of the “Prime Time Country” television show at the TNN studios; and Nashville on Stage. A variety of local clubs also feature country music. 18
Libraries and Museums
Founded in 1904, the Public Library of Nashville and Davidson
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County operates a central library downtown and 18 neighborhood branches. With a total of 262,800 book titles and 781,800 volumes, the library serves a population of more than half a million and employs a staff of 248. It has special collections in the subject areas of business, Nashville genealogy and history, children’s literature, drama, and oral history. Although Nashville has several art collections, none is actually housed in a building designed as a museum (a downtown museum building is in the planning stages, however). The Cheekwood Museum of Art, in the Depression-era Cheek Mansion, displays a permanent collection of American art and a variety of temporary exhibits. Nashville’s full-scale replica of the Greek Parthenon, built in the 1920s to replace the temporary version erected for the 1897 centennial celebrations, houses the Cowan Collection of paintings by American artists and other artifacts. Yet another non-traditional venue for art exhibits is Nashville International Airport, where the works of regional artists are showcased in the terminal’s atrium, as well as in the airport’s halls and lobbies. These include large suspended sculptures and Dale Eldred’s “Airport Sun Project,” an installation of solar reflecting panels. Art collections are also housed in galleries at Vanderbilt University and Fisk University. The Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum traces the history of country music in a colorful variety of exhibits that include musical instruments
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Nashville and other artifacts, videos, and such unique items as a gold Cadillac that belonged to Elvis Presley. The Grand Ole Opry Museum focuses on performers associated with this famed performance venue. The Lotz House Museum is dedicated to the Civil War (1861– 1865), and the Hartzler-Towner Multicultural Museum displays artifacts that highlight cultures around the world. Other museums include the Cumberland Science Museum, the Museum of Tobacco Art and History, the Nashville Toy Museum, and the Tennessee State Museum. 19
To u r i s m
Nashville’s music industry generates considerable tourism, which has become one of the city’s major sources of income. Tour buses are a common sight throughout Nashville, as visitors attend live performances and radio or television tapings or wander through the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum. The white-columned Opryland Hotel, located on 12 hectares (30 acres) of land and renovated in 1996, is located adjacent to the Grand Ole Opry House, and the Opryland USA theme park is nearby. Both the hotel and the Nashville Convention Center also offer convention facilities, including meeting and exhibit space, as does the recently completed Nashville Arena. Another of the city’s high-profile hotels is the Loew’s Vanderbilt Plaza Hotel next door to Vanderbilt University.
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Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Nashville Boat & Sport Show
FEBRUARY Antiques & Garden Show of Nashville Heart of Country Antiques Show
MARCH Nashville Lawn & Garden Show
APRIL Americana Sampler Craft Folk & Antique Show Main Street Festival Wildflower Fair
MAY Colonial Fair Day Hermitage Spring Garden Fair Historic Edgefield Tour of Homes Iroquois Steeplechase Opryland Gospel Jubilee Tennessee Crafts Fair Tennessee Renaissance Festival
MAY-AUGUST Dancin’ in the District
JUNE Balloon Classic Chet Atkins Musician Day Fan Fair International Country Music Fair Southern Gospel Music Fest
JULY Independence Day Celebration
AUGUST-SEPTEMBER Tennessee Walking Horse National Celebration
SEPTEMBER African Street Festival Belle Meade Fall Fest Italian Street Fair TACA Fall Crafts Fair Tennessee State Fair
OCTOBER Boo at the Zoo Grand Ole Opry Birthday Celebration NAIA Pow Wow Oktoberfest
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Nashville NOVEMBER Longhorn World Championship Rodeo Sinking Creek Film & Video Festival
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER A Country Christmas Nashville’s Country Holidays
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Famous Citizens
President Andrew Jackson (1767–1845). Vice President Al Gore (b. 1948). Artist Red Grooms (b. 1937). Comedienne Minnie Pearl (1912–1996). Flutist Paula Robeson (b. 1941). Singer Dinah Shore (1917–94). Track star Wilma Rudolph (b. 1940). Rock star Greg Allman (b. 1947). 22
For Further Study
Websites CitySearch Nashville. [Online] Available http: // nashville.citysearch.com (accessed December 8, 1999). Nashville City Net [Online] Available http: // www.city.net/countries/united_states/ tennessee/nashville (accessed December 8, 1999). Nashville.Net. [Online] Available http: // www.nashville.net/ (accessed December 8, 1999).
Government Offices Davidson County 205 Metro Courthouse Nashville, TN 37201 (615) 862-6770 Mayor’s Office 107 Metro Courthouse Nashville, TN 37201 (615) 862-5000
Nashville City Hall 107 Metro Courthouse Nashville, TN 37201 (615) 862–5000
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Nashville Convention and Visitors Bureau 161 4th Ave. N. Nashville, TN 37219 (615) 259-4700
Publications The Nashville Business Journal 222 2nd Ave. Nashville, TN 37201 The Tennessean 1100 Broadway Nashville, TN 37203
Books Ben-Amotz, Noa. Discover Another Nashville: An Essential Guide for Natives & Newcomers. Nashville, TN: Common Ground, 1994. Doyle, Don Harrison. Nashville Since the 1920s. Knoxville: University of Tennessee Press, 1985. Faragher, Scott. Nashville: Gateway to the South. An Insider's Guide to Music City, U. S. A. Nashville, TN: Cumberland House, 1998. Goodstein, Anita Shafer. Nashville, 1780–1860: From Frontier to City. Gainesville: University of Florida Press, 1989. Kingsbury, Paul. The Country Reader: Twenty-Five Years of the Journal of Country Music. Nashville, TN: Vanderbilt University Press, 1996. Kreyling, Christine M. Classical Nashville: Athens of the South. Nashville, TN: Vanderbilt University Press, 1996. Squires, James D. Secrets of the Hopewell Box: Stolen Elections, Southern Politics, and a City's Coming of Age. 1st ed. New York: Times Books, 1996.
Videorecordings A Tour of Nashville, Tennessee. [videorecording] City Productions Home Video. Memphis, TN: City Productions, 1994. 1 videocassette (ca. 45 min.). Nashville Music City U.S.A. [videorecording] Video Postcards, Inc., 1986. 1 videocassette (45 min.).
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New Orleans New Orleans, Louisiana, United States of America, North America Founded: 1718; Incorporated: 1805 Location: Southeastern Louisiana on Lake Pontchartrain near the mouth of the Mississippi River; United States, North America Motto: “Laissez le bon temps rouler!” (“Let the good times roll!”) Flag: White field with red (top) and blue (bottom) stripes, and three gold fleur de lys. Flower: Magnolia (Louisiana state flower) Time Zone: Central Standard Time (CST) Ethnic Composition: 34.9% white, 61.9% black, 3.5% Hispanic origin, 3.2% other Elevation: 5 ft. below sea level Latitude and Longitude:29º95’44N, 90º07’50W Coastline: 40 miles Climate: Semitropical climate. Winters are mild, and snowfall is rare; summers are hot and humid, and thunderstorms are common. Annual Mean Temperature: 70.4°F (21.4°C) Seasonal Average Snowfall: .20 in. (50 mm); Average annual precipitation (total of rainfall and melted snow): 62.08 in. (1,580 mm) Government: Mayor-council Weights and Measures: Standard US Monetary Units: Standard US Telephone Area Codes: 504 Postal Codes: 70053, 70056, 70112–70119, 70122, 70124–70131
1
Introduction
The cosmopolitan city of New Orleans is located on Lake Pontchartrain near the mouth of the Mississippi River in southeastern Louisiana. A beguiling combination of old and new, New Orleans has been dubbed “America’s Most Interesting City.” For most of its history, New Orleans’ status as a major port city has made it a bustling center of commerce and industry. Economic opportunity attracted hundreds of thousands of early settlers, resulting in today’s ethnically diverse population of Creoles, Cajuns and those of Italian, African and Caribbean descent. While
the New Orleans metro area today remains an important commercial and industrial hub, it is arguably most famous as a tourist destination. In the early nineteenth century, the American Sector was located just upriver of the original French colony, founded in 1718. Today, visitors come from around the globe to experience the old-world charm of the carefully preserved French Quarter, also called the Vieux Carre (Old Square). Travelers come to dine in its fine restaurants, listen to incomparable jazz, and browse in Royal Street’s fine antique shops. Home to the worldfamous annual Mardi Gras celebration, New Orleans lives by its motto: “laissez
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New Orleans
New Orleans Population Profile
cities within 161 kilometers (100 miles) include Baton Rouge, Louisiana; Gulfport, Biloxi, and Pascagoula, Mississippi; and Mobile, Alabama.
City Proper Population: 496,000 Area: 468 sq km (180.6 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 34.9% white; 61.9% black; 3.5% Hispanic origin; 3.2% other Nicknames: America’s Most Interesting City; The Crescent City; The Big Easy
Metropolitan Area Population: 1,072,000 Area: 941 sq km (363.5 sq mi) World population rank1: 341 Percentage of national population2: 0.4% Average yearly growth rate: 0.4% ——— 1. The New Orleans metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the United States’ total population living in the New Orleans metropolitan area.
le bon temps rouler!” (“Let the good times roll!”) 2
Getting There
New Orleans is situated on the Mississippi River, 177 kilometers (110 miles) northwest of its mouth at the Gulf of Mexico. Lake Pontchartrain borders the city to the north. Most of New Orleans lies between Lake Pontchartrain and the east bank of the Mississippi, which follows a crescent-shaped bend, giving New Orleans the nickname the Crescent City. Surrounding communities include Covington, Grenta, Harahan, Kenner, Metairie, Slidell, and Westwego. Major
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Highways Four major north-south highways serve the New Orleans area: Interstate 55 runs from New Orleans to Chicago, Illinois; U.S. Highway 61 runs from New Orleans to Memphis, Tennessee; U.S. Highway 11; and State Highway 23. The two main east-west routes are Interstate 10, which runs from Jacksonville, Florida, to Los Angeles, California; and U.S. Highway 90, which connects the city with Lafayette to the west and Mobile, Alabama, to the east. Bus and Railroad Service Buslines serving New Orleans include Baptiste, Canary’s Transportation, Loews Express, Louisiana Transit, and Greyhound. The main bus terminal is the Greyhound/Trailways Bus Station at 1001 Loyola Avenue. Amtrak passenger trains arrive and depart from the Amtrak Station, also located at 1001 Loyola Avenue. New Orleans is connected via rail to California, Chicago, Florida, New York, and points in between. Airports Major domestic airlines running flights to and from New Orleans International Airport include American, Continental, Delta, Northwest, Southwest, TWA, United, and US Airways. Many international airlines also fly directly into the airport, which is 23
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New Orleans
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New Orleans kilometers (14 miles) northwest of downtown New Orleans (approximately 20 minutes). Locals sometimes still call it Moissant Field, its former name. Shipping In the world of trade, New Orleans is known as one of the busiest and most efficient international ports in the country, handling 14 million tons of cargo annually. More than 100 steamship lines dock there, and as many as 52 vessels can be berthed at one time. 3
Getting Around
In the early nineteenth century, the city of New Orleans was divided: Americans settled upriver of the original French colony. Today, Canal Street acts as the official dividing line between the historic French Quarter and the rest of the city. Street names actually change as one crosses Canal Street from the French Quarter: Bourbon becomes Carondelet; Royal becomes St. Charles; and so on. Directions in New Orleans are described with respect to the waters, which weave around the city: lakeside means toward Lake Pontchartrain; riverside means toward the Mississippi River; upriver refers to Uptown; and downriver refers to Downtown. Bicycle Paths The French Quarter welcomes bikers, with Royal and Bourbon streets closing off during the day to all traffic but cyclists and pedestrians. City Park
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and Audubon Park are also bicyclefriendly locations. Ferry Service In a 25-minute round trip, the Canal Street Ferry travels across the Mississippi between the Canal Street Wharf and Algiers Ferry Landing. The ride is free to pedestrians; motorists pay one dollar for return to the wharf. The ferry runs daily from 5:30 AM to 9:30 PM. Bus and Commuter Rail Service The Regional Transit Authority (RTA) operates buses, shuttles, and streetcars throughout the New Orleans area. Buses require one dollar exact change or a token (sold only in banks). Transfers are ten cents extra. The Vieux Carre shuttle runs weekdays from 5:00 AM to 7:30 PM. Visitor passes allow unlimited travel on buses and streetcars. One-day passes are issued for four dollars; three-day passes may be purchased for eight dollars. The Riverfront Streetcar operates along the river between Esplanade Avenue and the Robin Street Wharf. It makes five stops above Canal Street and five stops below. The streetcar runs from 6:00 AM to midnight on weekdays and 8:00 a.m. to midnight on weekends. The fare is one dollar and 25 cents. Sightseeing Walking tours are one of the most popular ways to see New Orleans. A walk through the historic French Quarter offers access to various jazz clubs, museums, antique shops, and galleries.
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New Orleans
City Fact Comparison New Orleans (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
1,072,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1718
753 BC
723 BC
$172
$129
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$88
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$40
$56
$59
$62
$2
$14
$15
$16
$130
$173
$246
$207
1
13
20
11
Times-Picayune
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
259,317
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1837
1944
1976
1948
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.) Total daily costs
$193
Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established 1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
A stroll through the Garden District offers a view of the elegant mansions, known for their extravagant gardens, built by the Americans who settled in New Orleans after the 1803 Louisiana Purchase. A walking tour through the foot of Canal Street in the Central Business District offers shopping mall stops, as well as visits to the World Trade Center and the Aquarium of the Americas.
jazz cruise from 7:00 to 9:00 PM daily. The evening cruise fare is $22.50, $42.50 with dinner. A smaller boat, the John James Audubon, runs between the Aquarium of the Americas and the Audubon Zoo. The Audubon cruise leaves daily at 10:00 AM, noon, 2:00, and 4:00 PM from the aquarium; and 11:00 AM, 1:00, 3:00 and 5:00 PM from the zoo. Round-trip fare is $13.50.
Sightseeing tours by steamboat and streetcar are also popular. The New Orleans Steamboat Company runs the two-hour Natchez harbor cruise for a fare of $14.75 at 11:30 AM and 2:30 PM daily. It also runs a two-hour evening
The St. Charles Streetcar offers a 90-minute, 13-mile sightseeing opportunity. An official historic landmark, the streetcar travels up St. Charles Avenue, through the Garden District, past the Audubon Park and Zoo, as well as
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New Orleans
Buildings of old New Orleans in the foreground contrast with skyscrapers under construction and the Superdome, home of the New Orleans Saints football team. (Sepp Seitz; Woodfin Camp)
other popular Uptown sights. For a onedollar fare, the streetcar boards in the Central Business District at Canal and Carondelet Streets. It runs daily every five minutes from 7:30 AM to 6:00 PM; every 15 to 20 minutes from 6:00 PM to midnight; and every hour from midnight to 7:00 AM. 4
People
In 1990, the U.S. Census Bureau estimated a year-2000 population of 487,780 for the city of New Orleans. However, by 1999 the population count exceeded 496,000 people. The census
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also listed the racial/ethnic breakdown as 34.9 percent white, 61.9 percent black, 3.5 percent Hispanic origin, and 3.2 percent other. However, in a city as cosmopolitan as New Orleans, there is a lot more to racial/ethnic heritage than can be revealed by a statistical breakdown. Today’s population is a colorful amalgamation of Creole, Cajun, Caribbean, African, and Italian descent. However, the Creole and Cajun cultures are probably those most distinctive of New Orleans. One very important thing to understand is that while both groups
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New Orleans are French in descent, Creoles are not Cajuns, and Cajuns are not Creoles. By strict definition, a Creole is a descendant of an early French or Spanish settler, born in the colony, not in Europe. From the beginning, Creoles were strictly city dwellers. They called themselves “French,” spoke French, and considered themselves the true natives. As a result of their stubborn insistence on French language, culture, and customs (and consequent inability to adapt to anything American), they were economically overrun by “Les Americaines” after the Louisiana Purchase. However, the Creole legacy lives on in New Orleans culture in many ways—its food, its music, and the French Quarter. Cajuns, on the other hand, are descendants of rustic, country dwellers who lived along the bayous amid the swamps. They were manual laborers who celebrated as hard as they worked. Happily isolated, they were devoutly Catholic and spoke their own provincial version of French, dating back to their ancestral home in Brittany and Normandy. The word Cajun is actually a corruption of the word “Acadian.” The Cajuns’ ancestors were actually exiled from New Acadia (today known as Nova Scotia) by the British in 1755. In one of the nation’s largest mass migrations, more than 10,000 made their new home in Louisiana. Today, there are nearly one million people of Cajun descent. Those once isolated and ridiculed have acquired a kind of nouveau chic status as Cajun restaurants, music, artwork, and folklore have become all the cultural rage.
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5
Neighborhoods
Major neighborhoods and other well-known parts of the city include the French Quarter, the Central Business District, the Garden District, the University Section, Mid-City, and Lakeshore Drive. Surrounding communities include Covington, Grenta, Harahan, Kenner, Metairie, Slidell, and Westwego. The French Quarter Also called Vieux Carre (Old Square), the French Quarter is the original colony, founded by French Creoles in 1718. The carefully preserved historic district is delineated by Canal Street, Esplanade Avenue, North Rampart Street, and the Mississippi River. The neighborhood is characterized by two- and three-story buildings of old brick and pastel-painted stucco. An eclectic crowd passes beneath hanging plants that dangle from the eaves of buildings. Home to some 7,000 residents, most houses date from the early to mid-nineteenth century and are fronted by secluded courtyards. Although the district encompasses only about two-and-a-half kilometers (one square mile), it is packed full of must-see locations. Other than worldrenowned French Creole restaurants, jazz clubs, and antique shops, the district is home to St. Louis Cathedral at Jackson Square, the Cabildo, Washington Artillery Park, the Old U.S. Mint, the Beauregard-Keyes House, the Gallier House, Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop, the New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum,
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New Orleans the nineteenth-century LaBranche Houses, First Skyscraper, Preservation Hall, the Historic New Orleans Collection, the New Orleans Pharmacy Museum, Napoleon House, HermannGrima House, the Musee Conti Wax Museum, and the Old Ursuline Convent, which is the only remaining original French colonial structure today. Downriver Downriver of the French Quarter are the suburbs of Marigny, Bywater, Treme—famous for Congo Square and Basin Street—Arabi, and Chalmette, where the Battle of New Orleans was fought in 1815. Algiers is a very old residential section on the city’s west bank, across the Mississippi from the Quarter and the foot of Canal Street. The Central Business District The heart of America’s second-largest port, as well as the main parade route during Mardi Gras, the Central Business District cuts a wide path between Uptown and Downtown, Canal Street being the official dividing line. Defined by Canal Street, the river, Howard Avenue, and Loyola Avenue, the Central Business District is home to the city’s newest convention hotels, shopping malls, and department stores, international trade agencies and consulates, monuments, and the Superdome. Points of particular interest include the World Trade Center, the Aquarium of the Americas, Woldenberg Riverfront Park, and the Spanish Plaza.
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The Garden District One of the nation’s most picturesque neighborhoods, the Garden District is defined by St. Charles Avenue, Louisiana Avenue, Jackson Avenue, and Magazine Street. It was settled by Americans who rushed to New Orleans after the 1803 Louisiana Purchase but remained upriver of the already-established French Quarter. Countering the Creole penchant for secluded courtyards, they built elegant homes surrounded by lavish gardens; however, many of the district’s most stunning mansions were built during the city’s “golden age,” from 1830 until the Civil War. Today, the grand mansions are private homes and closed to the public, but they are worth seeing from the outside. Sites of particular interest include Colonel Short’s Villa, the Robinson House, and the home of novelist Anne Rice. Upriver Beyond the Garden District lies the University Section, home of Loyola University and Tulane University, Audubon Park and Audubon Zoo, one of the nation’s top five zoos, and the Carrollton and Broadmoor residential sections. Riverbend is both a residential and shopping area that is situated in an uptown bend in the Mississippi. Mid-City Located between downtown and Lake Pontchartrain, Mid-City is predominantly a residential area. It is also
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New Orleans home to one of the nation’s largest urban parks. City Park encompasses 607 hectares (1,500 acres) and contains the New Orleans Museum of Art, boating and fishing lagoons, golf and tennis courts, botanical gardens, a playground and amusement park with an antique carousel, and the world-renowned Live Oak trees. Also in Mid-City is the Fair Grounds Race Course, host to thoroughbred racing and the annual Jazz and Heritage Festival. Lakeshore Drive As is suggested by its name, Lakeshore Drive follows the south bank of Lake Pontchartrain. On the east end is Lakefront Airport, and on the west is West End Park, known for its fine seafood restaurants. The area is a popular picnic, fishing, sailing, and sunning spot. It is also host to the Mardi Gras Fountain, which is surrounded by plaques bearing various Carnival krewe emblems. 6
History
The region today called New Orleans was first visited by Europeans in 1541 when a Spanish exploration party led by Hernando de Soto discovered the Mississippi River. It was the French, however, who claimed the Mississippi River Territory when explorer Robert Cavalier de la Salle visited the area in 1682. At the turn of the eighteenth century, French brothers Pierre le Moyne d’Iberville and Jean Baptiste le Moyne de Bienville established a colony in southeastern “Louisiane” when they arrived with 200 settlers. Dubbed
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The War of 1812 ended in New Orleans when U.S. General Andrew Jackson defeated the British forces. (Bernard Boutrit; Woodfin Camp)
La Nouvelle Orleans, the colony was named in honor of Phillippe, duc d’Orleans, the Regent of France. In 1763, the Spanish overtook control of the Louisiana Territory and ruled until 1801 when Napoleon regained it for France. Just two years later, in 1803, Napoleon sold the land to the United States in a deal known historically as the Louisiana Purchase. New Orleans grew tremendously in the nineteenth century. It was incorporated as a city in 1805. The College of Orleans, the first institution of higher learning in Louisiana, opened in the
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New Orleans city in 1811. The following year the first steamboat began operating between New Orleans and Natchez. The War of 1812 actually ended in New Orleans when, on January 8, 1815, General Sir Edward Pakenham attacked the city with a British force and was defeated by U.S. General Andrew Jackson at Chalmette Plantation, now a National Historical Park. Louisiana was admitted to the Union on April 30, 1812, with New Orleans as the state capital. It remained so until 1849, except for a brief period between 1830 and 1831. The city’s location near the mouth of the Mississippi River made it an excellent locale for trade with cotton and sugarcane as the primary commodities. Hundreds of thousands of people were drawn by economic opportunity, and New Orleans’ population skyrocketed to 166,375 by the 1850s. New Orleans had become the third-largest city in the United States. An important Confederate port, New Orleans was captured by Union troops early in the Civil War and held under military rule for the duration. The Civil War led to a period of economic decline, and it was not until 1880 that port tonages were comparable with those of the late 1850s. Recovery was due largely to government construction of the Eads jetties (walls built out into the water to restrain currents and protect a harbor or pier) at the mouth of the Mississippi in 1879, greatly improving access to the Port of New Orleans.
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At the turn of the twentieth century, Louisiana established the Board of Commissioners of the Port of New Orleans, and modernization of the port was underway. In 1917, a screw-type electric pump made substantial swamp drainage possible, and formerly uninhabitable land became habitable. By the 1930s, all of the swamp areas were as effectively drained as the higher sites. In addition to swamp problems, fires, hurricanes, and yellow fever epidemics have taken their toll on the city, especially in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. However, New Orleans’ ongoing battle with nature has been made easier by twentieth century technology, and the city has experienced continuous growth since 1900. In the second half of the twentieth century, establishment of the National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) space-flight facility and further expansion of port facilities contributed to New Orleans’ accelerated growth rate. In 1984, New Orleans’ Mississippi River waterfront even hosted the Louisiana World Exposition. In the 1990s, the Port of New Orleans remained among the busiest in the country. Rich in heritage and culture, the population continues to be extremely diverse, consisting of Creoles (descendants of the original French and Spanish colonists), Cajuns (descendants of the Acadians who were driven from Nova Scotia by the British in 1755), and other groups whose ancestry lies in Italy, Africa, and the Caribbean islands. New Orleans is also a major tourist des-
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New Orleans tination, famous for its historic French Quarter and annual Mardi Gras celebration. With a population of more than 496,000 people at the outset of the twenty-first century, New Orleans is Louisiana’s largest city. 7
Government
The New Orleans city government operates under the Home Rule Charter of the City of New Orleans, as amended January 1, 1996. This charter calls for a mayor-council form of government, wherein the mayor is to be aided by a chief administrative officer who is responsible to the mayor in the performance of duties. The council is to consist of seven members, five of whom are to be elected from districts and two from the city at large. The mayor and council members are all elected to fouryear terms. 8
Public Safety
As the New Orleans City Council conducted hearings for the 2000 Millenium Budget, the recommended operating budget of $507,304,152 proposed to continue the city’s commitment to improving public safety. Highlights of the budget included the provision of funding to bring the New Orleans Police Department to a full force of 1,700 officers and the provision for continuation of the city’s five-year Rebuild New Orleans Now! capital initiative to repair streets, parks, and public buildings. Overall, the New Orleans Police Department has reported a steady drop
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in the number of violent crimes. The most notable is the 23 percent reduction of violent crime citywide for the first six months of 1997 compared to the first six months of 1996. The comparison of non-violent crimes for the same periods also shows a decrease by 11 percent. In 1997, the total crime index stood at 53,399. Violent crimes reported to police (per 100,000 population) included 363 murders, 487 rapes, 5,349 robberies, and 4,677 aggravated assaults. Property crimes included 10,236 burglaries and 2,044 motor vehicle thefts. 9
Economy
Since its founding in 1718, New Orleans’ status as a port city has been a major factor in its economic development. Its location near the mouth of the Mississippi River enabled the city to grow as an important center for trade. In the nineteenth century, primary commodities included cotton and sugarcane. During the Civil War, the port served as a vital military post. However, the region experienced economic decline as New Orleans, originally part of the Confederacy, was captured by Union troops early in the war. The city recovered its prosperous economic status by the early 1900s. In the twenty-first century, the New Orleans metro area remains an important commercial and industrial hub. In the world of trade, it is known as one of the busiest and most efficient international ports in the country. Not
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New Orleans
Traveling in New Orleans is difficult because of all the swamps, rivers, lakes, and bayous that are scattered throughout the city, but street cars make it easier to get around. (Bernard Boutrit; Woodfin Camp)
only does the Port of New Orleans play a vital role in the region’s economy, but in Louisiana’s economy as a whole: ten percent of the state’s entire workforce is employed in port-related activities.
The economy has diversified significantly since the 1980s, and service industries currently make up the largest employment sector in the region. Tourism and health care are among the city’s fastest-growing industries.
Despite a decline during the 1980s, the oil and gas industry also remains an important part of the city’s economic base. Major U.S. petroleum companies located in New Orleans include Shell, Exxon, Mobil, and British Petroleum (BP).
Other major boosters of the New Orleans’ economy range from higher education to aerospace to finance. Both Tulane and Loyola Universities are major employers. The National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) maintains an assembly facility
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New Orleans in the city. Major companies headquartered in the New Orleans’ area include Hibernia Corp; Lockheed Martin Michoud Space Systems; Schwegmann Giant Super Markets; and Union Carbide Corp. As of June 1999, the New Orleans labor force numbered 624,200, and unemployment stood at 4.6 percent. 10
Environment
New Orleans may be a thriving metropolis, but it was once written off as nothing more than an alligator and mosquito-infested swamp. The maze of river, bayous, lakes, and swamps made land access and travel difficult. The semitropical climate provided the perfect breeding conditions for mosquitoes, and diseases, such as yellow fever and malaria, ran rampant. In its earliest days the area was actually referred to as the Isle of Orleans. Today, New Orleans is defined by the very bodies of water that once made habitation so unlikely. Its nickname— the Crescent City—actually refers to the shape of the land that has been molded by the Mississippi River. The river winds through the city and rushes out into the Gulf of Mexico, which lies 177 kilometers (110 miles) to the south. To the north of the city lies Lake Pontchartrain, actually a coastal lagoon, 40 kilometers (25 miles) wide and 64 kilometers (40 miles) long with a total area of more than 1,606 square kilometers (620 square miles).
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The Greater New Orleans area covers about 941 square kilometers (363.5 square miles), but only 514 (198.4) are somewhat dry land. This is because, at five feet below sea level, New Orleans is the lowest point in the state of Louisiana. 11
Shopping
Shopping in New Orleans winds along the Mississippi River, all the way from the French Quarter to Uptown beyond Riverbend. The French Quarter is the place to hunt for antiques. There shoppers will also find art galleries, designer boutiques, bookstores, and an array of unique shops. Along Canal Place, located on Canal Street, shoppers can admire the finery of jewelry designer Mignon Faget and browse in the likes of Saks Fifth Avenue, Laura Ashley, Gucci, and Brooks Brothers. Riverwalk, located at 1 Poydras Street, is a long marketplace boasting more than 200 shops, restaurants, food courts, and huge windows overlooking the Mississippi. New Orleans Centre, between the Hyatt Regency Hotel and the Superdome on Poydras Street, has more than 100 vendors, including Macy’s and Lord & Taylor. For six miles along Magazine Street, Victorian houses and small cottages filled with antiques and collectibles welcome shoppers. Riverbend, located at Maple Street and Carrollton Avenue is comprised of turn-of-the-century Creole cottages that host toy shops, designer boutiques, delis, and more. Metairie’s three-level Esplanade Mall at
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New Orleans West Esplanade Avenue houses 155 shops, including Macy’s and Mervyn’s. Finally, the Warehouse District, bordered by Girod Street, Howard Avenue, Camp Street, and the river, is a major center for the visual arts, Julia Street being particularly noteworthy. Shopper’s guides are published by the Magazine Street Merchants Association and the Royal Street Guild; shopping information can also be found at the New Orleans Welcome Center. 12
Education
Most education in the state of Louisiana was provided through private schools until Reconstruction. In fact, New Orleans’ Creole population often sent their children to be educated abroad in France. It was not until Huey Long’s administration, when spending for education increased significantly and free textbooks were supplied, that education became a high priority for the state. Desegregation of Louisiana schools actually started in New Orleans. Integration of New Orleans public schools began in 1960; two years later, the archbishop of New Orleans required that all Catholic schools under his jurisdiction be desegregated. In 1996, the parish was ranked as the thirty-third-largest school district in the nation with an enrollment of 85,064 students. In 1999, there were 274 public and 135 private elementary schools, 53 public and 29 private high schools in New
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Orleans. There were also three public and five private four-year universities, two community colleges, two medical schools, two law schools, and two theological seminaries. Among the post-secondary institutions, the most wellknown include Loyola University of Louisiana and Tulane University, two of the most distinguished private universities in the South, Dillard University, the University of New Orleans, and Southern University of New Orleans. 13
Health Care
A few of the many medical care facilities in New Orleans include Mercy Baptiste Medical Center, Ochsner Foundation Hospital, Pendleton Memorial Methodist Hospital, Saint Charles General Hospital, Touro Infirmary, Tulane University Medical Center, and University Hospital of Medical Center of Louisiana. According to 1997 reports, there were 23 hospitals and 2,368 physicians in New Orleans. The citizen to physician ratio for the county was 203 to one. 14
Media
New Orleans has two major television stations: WYES-TV; and WWL-TV, Channel 4. WYES-TV boasts chip beta cams, an eight-camera mobile unit, and editing studio facilities. Clients include HBO, ESPN, MTV, and Bob Hope. WWL-TV, Channel 4 is a legendary CBS affiliate that boasts a strong “Eyewitness News” franchise, double-digit ratings, and network-quality production.
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New Orleans Major newspapers include the Times-Picayune and USA Today, the number-one newspaper in the nation. Magazines include Ambassador’s, Inc., a high quality restaurant guide; New Orleans Magazine, consumer-lifestyle reading dedicated to the upscale local, business, and visitor markets; Where Magazine; and Where Y’at Magazine, the city’s free guide to complete restaurant, club, and bar listings and timely articles about local and national entertainment news. 15
Sports
The same qualities that make New Orleans an optimal convention and festival town also make it a great sports town. An accessible downtown area and a plethora of attractions and hotel accommodations have qualified the Crescent City as host to world-class sporting events on numerous occasions. It has been an eight-time Super Bowl host; three-time NCAA Men’s Final Four Championships host; NCAA Women’s Final Four Championships host; 1992 Olympic Track and Field host; SEC Basketball Tournament host; and AAU Junior Olympics host. For football fans, New Orleans hosts the annual Nokia Sugar Bowl, as well as the National Football League’s Saints team. The Sugar Bowl college football classic, held in January, is sponsored by a non-profit civic group that sponsors seven other amateur sporting events throughout the year. As for the New Orleans Saints, home games are
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played in the Louisiana Superdome from August through December. The Crescent City is also home to the 1998 Triple-A World Series Champion New Orleans Zephyrs. The baseball team is the top affiliate of the Houston Astros and plays 71 home games from April through September at their state-of-the-art facility on Airline Drive. For golf enthusiasts, the FreeportMcDermott Golf Classic is held in late March-early April. The Classic Foundation also hosts the annual PGA Tour golf tournament at English Turn to benefit youth charities. The New Orleans Brass represents the city in the world of hockey, and horse racing takes place at the New Orleans Fair Grounds. 16
Parks and Recreation
New Orleans may be a thriving metropolis, but its parks are nothing short of urban oases. Woldenberg Riverfront Park encompasses 5.3 hectares (13 acres) of landscaped territory, featuring more than 300 oak trees, magnolias, willows, and crepe myrtles, a large lawn and a brick walkway offering direct access to the Mississippi River. City Park, located on City Park Avenue, spans 607 hectares (1,500 acres) and features moss-draped oaks, lagoons, hiking-biking trails, picnic grounds, golf courses, tennis courts, luxuriant
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New Orleans to visit for a close view of sea life. Visitors can explore the aquatic world of the Caribbean, Amazon Rainforest, Gulf of Mexico, and Mississippi Delta. For fishing enthusiasts, the bayous and inlets off the Mississippi River are rich with redfish, trout, and bass; lemon fish, tuna, and red snapper can be found around the oil rigs a few miles offshore. A license issued by the Department of Wildlife and Fisheries is required for any outing and is available from most sporting goods stores and marinas.
Travelers from all over the world come to listen to the incomparable jazz of New Orleans. (Olivier Rebbot; Woodfin Camp)
botanical gardens, and an amusement park featuring a late nineteenth-century carousel. Audubon Park, located on St. Charles Avenue, offers golf and tennis, a 2.9-kilometer (1.8-mile) jogging path shaded by giant oak trees, and 18 exercise stations. The Audubon Zoo, located on Magazine Street behind Audubon Park, is ranked among the top five zoos in the nation. It is noted for its famed white tiger, white alligators, the Louisiana Swamp exhibit, and the World of Primates. Aquarium of the Americas, located at the foot of Canal Street, is the place
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Game around Louisiana includes a wide variety from deer and water fowl to rabbit and alligator. Hunting permits are available from most expedition outfits. As the New Orleans City Council conducted hearings for the 2000 Millenium Budget, the recommended operating budget of $507,304,152 proposed to continue the city’s commitment to youth development and improving the parks. The proposed budget recommended increasing funding to the New Orleans Recreation Department to nine million dollars to include summer and teen camps, public pools, and afterschool recreational programs. 17
Performing Arts
World-renowned for its jazz history, New Orleans swings with live performances around the clock. Traditional jazz can be found at Preservation Hall and Palm Court Jazz Café. Snug Harbor and Pete Fountain’s Club are also popu-
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New Orleans lar spots. Free jazz concerts are held on weekends during the day in Dutch Alley. For those with a more classical taste in music, the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra performs at the Orpheum Theatre. In the realm of dance and opera, the New Orleans Ballet Association and the New Orleans Opera Association produce performances of visiting companies at the New Orleans Theatre for the Performing Arts in Armstrong Park. In dramatic theater, the Contemporary Arts Center hosts the avantgarde, offbeat, and satirical. Classics, contemporary drama, children’s theater, and musicals are presented at Le Petit Theatre du Vieux Carre. Touring Broadway shows, dance companies, and top-name talent appear at the Saenger Performing Arts Center. 18
Libraries and Museums
New Orleans boasts a total of 65 public libraries and three institutional libraries. The official New Orleans Public Library, with 11 branches and 1,003,274 books, features a special collection on jazz and folk music. The Tulane University Library, with 1,470,549 books, has special collections on jazz and Louisiana history. The libraries at Tulane University and Xavier University of Louisiana each carry a special black-studies collection. New Orleans also hosts a staggering number of museums with collections
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ranging from art to history to novelty. Leading art museums include the New Orleans Museum of Art, the Ogden Museum of Southern Art, and the Lampe Gallery. As for historical museums, the Louisiana State Museum, an eight-building historic complex in the French Quarter, is the oldest and largest museum in the state of Louisiana. There is also the Confederate Museum, the American Italian Renaissance Museum, BAND—Black Arts National Diaspora, Inc., Gallier House Museum, HermannGrima Historic House, the Historic New Orleans Collection, the House of Broel’s Historic Mansion and Dollhouse Museum, Longue Vue House and Gardens, Pitot House Museum, and St. Alphonsus Art and Culture Museum. Novelty museums include Louisiana Children’s Museum, Musee Conti—the Wax Museum, New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum, the Audubon Living Science Museum, and the six museums of the Rivertown Museums, including Jefferson Parish Mardi Gras Museum and the Saints Hall of Fame. 19
To u r i s m
New Orleans has a reputation as a good-time town. With a motto like “Laissez le bon temps rouler!” (“Let the good times roll!”), it is no wonder that the September 1997 Conde Nast Traveler ranked the Big Easy as the second most popular tourist destination in the United States. The New Orleans Metropolitan Convention and Visitors Bureau reported between 11 and 14 million visitors and $3.358 billion in expenditures attributed to tourism for 1997.
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New Orleans New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival
MAY Greek Festival
JUNE Great French Market Tomato Festival Reggae Riddums Festival
JULY
Go 4th on the River
OCTOBER Swamp Festival Gumbo Festival Jeff Fest New Orleans Film and Video Festival Oktoberfest
NOVEMBER Bayou Classic Football Game
DECEMBER New Orleans is the home to the world-famous Mardi Gras celebration. Masks like these can be purchased in souvenir shops. (Mike Yamashita; Woodfin Camp)
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Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Chinese New Year Festival Sugar Bowl Nokia-Sugar Bowl Mardi Gras Marathon
FEBRUARY Lundi Gras Mardi Gras
MARCH African Heritage Festival International Louisiana Black Heritage Festival Mensaje’s Spanish Festival New Orleans Literary Festival St. Patrick’s Day Parade Spring Fiesta
APRIL Crescent City Classic French Quarter Festival
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New Orleans Christmas New Year’s Eve Countdown
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Famous Citizens
Well-known New Orleans natives include: Louis Armstrong (c. 1898–1971), worldrenowned jazz musician. George Washington Cable (1844–1925), author. Truman Capote (1924–84), author whose works include In Cold Blood and Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Harry Connick, Jr. (b. 1967), Grammywinning jazz musician. Antoine “Fats” Domino (b. 1928), one of the founding fathers of rhythm and blues. Louis Moreau Gottschalk (1829–69), celebrated nineteenth-century pianist.
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New Orleans Lillian Hellman (1907–84), noted author whose works include Julia and The Little Foxes. George Herriman (1880–1944), cartoonist, best known for Krazy Kat. Mahalia Jackson (1911–1972), one of the world’s greatest gospel singers. Branford Marsalis (b. 1960), jazz saxophonist, once leader of the Tonight Show band. Wynton Marsalis (b. 1961), Grammywinning jazz and classical trumpeter. Paul Morphy (1837–84), father of modern chess. Jelly Roll Morton (1890–1941), famous jazz pianist. Joseph “King” Oliver (1885–1938), cornetist, bandleader, and principal mentor of Louis Armstrong. Mel Ott (1908–1958), 1930s major league baseball star credited with more than 511 major-league home runs. Anne Rice (b. 1941), author of best-selling novels featuring vampires. 22
For Further Study
Websites Chamber/New Orleans and the River Region. [Online] Available http: //www.gnofn.org/ chamber (accessed November 19, 1999). Greater New Orleans Free-Net. [Online] Available http: //www.gnofn.org (accessed November 19, 1999). New Orleans City Government. [Online] Available http: //www.tulane.edu/~uccr/gov.html (accessed November 19, 1999).
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New Orleans Times and Directory. [Online] Available http: //www.gna.com (accessed November 19, 1999). Neworleans.com. [Online] Available http: // www.neworleans.com (accessed November 19, 1999).
Government Offices New Orleans City Hall 1300 Perdido St. New Orleans, LA 70112 (504) 565–6000 New Orleans City Council 1300 Perdido St. 2nd Fl W New Orleans, LA 70112 (504) 565-7655 New Orleans Mayor 1300 Perdido St. New Orleans, LA 70112 (504) 565–8076
Tourist and Convention Bureaus New Orleans Visitor Center 529 Saint Ann St. New Orleans, LA 70116 (504) 566–5031 New Orleans Metropolitan Convention and Visitors Bureau 1520 Sugar Bowl Dr. New Orleans, LA 70112 (504) 566–5011 Ernest N. Morial Convention Center 900 Convention Center Blvd. New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 582–3023 New Orleans and River Region Chamber of Commerce 601 Poydras St., Suite 1700 New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 527–6900
Publications Ambassador’s, Inc. 4955 W. Napoleon Ave., Ste. 116 Metairie, LA 70001 (888) 716–1792
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New Orleans Natives’ Guide to New Orleans 3923 Bienville St. New Orleans, LA 70119 (504) 486–5900 New Orleans Magazine 111 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Ste. 1810 Metairie, LA 70005–4955 (504) 838–7737 Offbeat Publications 333 St. Charles Ave., #614 New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 944-4300 Times-Picayune Publishing Corp. 3800 Howard Ave. New Orleans, LA 70140 (504) 826–3279 Where Magazine 528 Wilkinson Row New Orleans, LA 70130 (504) 522–6468
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Where Y’at Magazine 5500 Prytania St., PMA 248 New Orleans, LA 70115 (504) 891–0144
Books Barrett, Tracy. Kidding Around Nashville. Santa Fe: John Muir, 1998. Chappell, Susan. The Opryland Insider’s Guide to Nashville. New York: Ballantine, 2000. Deegan, Paul. Nashville, Tennessee. New York: Crestwood, 1989. Jackson, Joy. New Orleans in the Gilded Age: Politics and Urban Progress, 1880–96. Baton Rouge: Louisiana State University Press, 1969. Lovett, Bobby L. The African American History of Nashville, Tennessee 1780–1930. Fayetteville: University of Arkansas Press, 1999.
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N e w Yo r k New York, New York, United States of America, North America Founded: 1613; Incorporated: 1898 Location: Southeastern New York on the Atlantic coast, United States, North America Time Zone: 7 AM Eastern Standard Time (EST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: White, 63.9%; Black, 28.7%; Asian/Pacific Islander, 7% Elevation: 15–244 m (50–800 ft) above sea level Latitude and Longitude: 40º45'N, 73º59'W Coastline: 1,942 km (750 mi) Climate: Continental climate moderated by the Atlantic Ocean, with hot summers, cold winters, mild springs, and crisp autumns Annual Mean Temperature: 12.2ºC (54.0ºF); January 0.1ºC (32.2ºF); July 24.8ºC (76.6ºF) Seasonal Average Snowfall: 737 mm (29 in) Average Annual Precipitation (total of rainfall and melted snow): 1016 mm (40 in) Government: Mayor-council Weights and Measures: Standard U.S. Monetary Units: Standard U.S. Telephone Area Codes: 212, 718 Postal Codes: 10001–99; 10101–99; 10201–82
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Introduction
Located at the mouth of the Hudson River in southeastern New York state, New York is one of the world’s great cities. It has the largest population of any city in the United States, and it is unrivaled in the diversity of its neighborhoods and their often-colorful residents. New York runs the gamut from great concentrations of wealth, epitomized by luxury apartment buildings and hotels and mammoth corporate headquarters, to the grinding urban poverty of its ethnic and racial ghettos. A major financial and economic center, it is also a cultural mecca that has attracted generations of artists and
intellectuals and draws millions of tourists every year. In its 400-year history the city has grown and changed rapidly, repeatedly renewing itself through successive waves of immigration and urban development. As a new century approaches, it remains, perhaps more than anything else, a city on the move. 2
Getting There
Located at the southeastern-most point in the state of New York, New York City is situated on the Atlantic coastal plain, at the mouth of the Hudson River.
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New York
New York Population Profile City Proper Population: 7,333,000 Area: 800 sq km (308.9 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 63.9% white; 28.7% black; 7% Asian/Pacific Islander Nicknames: The Big Apple; The Empire City
Metropolitan Area Population: 16,626,000 Description: New York City and surrounding communities World population rank1: 5 Percentage of national population2: 6.0% Average yearly growth rate: 0.4% Ethnic composition: 91.2% white; 4.4% black; 3.4% Asian/Pacific Islander ——— 1. The New York metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the United States’ total population living in the New York metropolitan area.
(the New York Thruway) becomes the Major Deegan Expressway as it nears the city from the north. I-80 (the Bergen-Passaic Expressway) approaches New York heading eastward from Pennsylvania. Bus and Railroad Service Amtrak offers daily service to New York’s Penn Station from Chicago (on the Lake Shore Limited), Miami (the Silver Star), New Orleans (the Crescent), Toronto (the Maple Leaf), and Montreal (the Adirondack). Amtrak also operates a high-speed rail shuttle, the Metroliner, between New York and Washington, D.C. Other rail lines that operate out of Penn Station are the Long Island Railroad and New Jersey Transit. MetroNorth operates service from New Haven, Connecticut, and Poughkeepsie, New York, to Manhattan’s Grand Central Railroad Terminal. Airports
Highways New York City is known for its traffic congestion, and many New Yorkers walk or use public transportation within the city itself. The major northsouth interstate routes leading to New York are I-95 and I-87 (which approaches New York from the north only). In New Jersey, I-95 becomes the New Jersey Turnpike. East of the Hudson River, it becomes the Cross Bronx Expressway before heading north up the coast of New England. I-95 leads to the Holland and Lincoln tunnels and the George Washington Bridge. I-87
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Almost every major domestic carrier operates flights to and from New York, as do most international airlines as well. The city is served by three major airports: John F. Kennedy International Airport (which handles over 200 international flights per day) and LaGuardia Airport, both in Queens, and Newark International Airport in New Jersey. Shipping New York is home to two Foreign Trade Zones—one at Kennedy International Airport and one at the Brooklyn Navy Yard—which encourage trade by
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New York
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New York
City Fact Comparison New York (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
16,626,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1613
753 BC
723 BC
$172
$129
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy) Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner) Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.) Total daily costs
$198
$193
$44
$56
$59
$62
$2
$14
$15
$16
$244
$173
$246
$207
Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
10
13
20
11
The Wall Street Journal
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
1,740,450
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1889
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
providing exemptions from certain import duties. Although New York has one of the world’s largest and safest harbors, shipping traffic through its port (and that of New Jersey) has been cut by more than half in the past 30 years, as shippers have begun using modern railroad flat cars that cross over land bridges. However, the World Trade Center, home to many of the world’s largest trading companies, is still owned by the Port Authority of New York. 3
Getting Around
New York City consists of five divisions called boroughs. Manhattan and
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Staten Island occupy separate islands. Brooklyn and Queens, across the East River, are located at the western end of Long Island, and the Bronx occupies part of the mainland to the north, across the Harlem River. Although it is the smallest of the five boroughs, Manhattan—bounded on the west by the Hudson River and on the east by the East River and Harlem—is geographically, financially, and culturally the heart of the city. The streets at the southern end of the island—in areas including the Wall Street financial district, Chinatown, and SoHo—are laid out in an irregular
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New York pattern that dates back to the days of Dutch settlement in the seventeenth century. As settlement later expanded northward, a grid pattern of streets and avenues emerged. The streets run eastwest, with numbers ascending northward; avenues run north-south, with numbers ascending westward. Fifth Avenue, running north-south, is the dividing line between streets labeled “east” and “west”: to the east of Fifth Avenue, 23rd Street is East 23rd, to the west it is West 23rd. Instead of numbers, a few avenues east of Fifth Avenue are labeled by names (Madison, Park, Lexington) or, in the southern part of the city, letters (A, B, C, and D). In addition, Sixth Avenue is also known as Avenue of the Americas, and some of the other numbered avenues on the west side are known by other names above 59th Street (Central Park West, Columbus, Amsterdam, and West End avenues). The streets and avenues north of 14th Street are perpendicular to each other except for Broadway, which runs diagonally across the island, northwest to southeast, from the Upper West Side to 14th Street, after which it runs southward to the tip of Manhattan, serving as the dividing line between east and west for this section of the island. The famous “squares” of the city (Times Square, Herald Square, Union Square, etc.) are located at the intersections of Broadway and the major avenues. A major point of reference in upper Manhattan is Central Park, which runs northward from 59th to 110th streets
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and from Fifth to Eighth avenues (Eighth Avenue is called Central Park West for the length of the park). Bus and Commuter Rail Service New York’s subway system is one of the largest in the world, with 1,149 kilometers (714 miles) of track and 469 stations. Trains run 24 hours a day, making frequent stops during rush hour and other daytime hours. Both local and express trains are available. Buses run daily from 6:00 AM to 9:00 PM in all five boroughs; more than 200 routes are covered by a fleet of 3,700 buses. Taxicabs are a popular mode of transportation in Manhattan—during peak traffic hours, an ocean of yellow cabs seem to fill the city’s streets. Taxi stands abound throughout the city, and cabs can be easily hailed in most areas. Sightseeing Visitors may tour New York in organized tours by trolley or double-decker bus, and many walking tours of specific neighborhoods are offered, as well as self-guided walking tours of historic sites in Manhattan. Brief helicopter tours offer a dramatic view of the Manhattan skyline, as do scenic cruises of New York Harbor. In addition there are many specialized tours of specific sites, including Carnegie Hall, Lincoln Center, Radio City, and the studios of the NBC television network. 4
People
New York is the nation’s most populous city and has more than twice the
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New York
Manhattan is the smallest of New York’s five boroughs in area, but its skyline is the symbol of New York to people around the world. (Katsuyoshi Tanaka; Woodfin Camp)
population of its nearest competitor, Los Angeles. In 1990, the population of New York was 7,323,000, with the following racial composition: 63.9 percent white, 28.7 percent black, and seven percent Asian/Pacific Islander, with other groups accounting for percentages of less than one percent. Hispanics (an ethnic rather than a racial designation) accounted for 24.4 percent of the population. The 1994 population estimate was 7,333,000. The population of the New York Primary Metropolitan Statistical Area was estimated at 8,611,099 as of 1997. The region’s racial composition was listed by the U.S. Census
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Bureau in 1996 as 91.2 percent white; 4.4 percent black; and 3.4 percent Asian/Pacific Islander. Hispanics accounted for two percent of the metropolitan area population. 5
Neighborhoods
In the busy financial district in lower Manhattan, the maze of narrow streets laid down during the oldest period of the city’s history are home to the towering skyscrapers of Wall Street, the nation’s foremost symbol of financial power and prosperity. To the north of the financial district lie New York’s
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New York teeming, colorful Chinatown and Tribeca (“Triangle Below Canal Street”), a former market district whose warehouses have been converted to artists’ lofts and galleries to create one of Manhattan’s trendiest upscale residential neighborhoods, graced by fashionable shops and restaurants. The chic SoHo (“South of Houston”; pronounced HOW-stun) neighborhood just to the north of Tribeca has had a similar history of rejuvenation fueled by its popularity with the artistic community; today, however, gentrification has brought the district out of reach of many artists—like the ones who were responsible for the rebirth of the neighborhood in the 1960s. To the east of SoHo are Little Italy, known for its authentic Italian cuisine, and the Lower East Side, the former home to a teeming population of Eastern European immigrants and today a mecca for shoppers in search of both local color and bargains on Orchard Street. Greenwich Village, between Houston (pronounced HOW-stun) and 14th streets and west of Broadway, is the historical capital of Bohemianism in America, once home to a dizzying array of artists, writers, musicians, and political radicals. Like other once-marginal areas of New York, the Village has become a prime upscale neighborhood with soaring rents, including some of the highest in the city. However, it is still a colorful area and cultural mecca, as well the center of the city’s gay community and home to three colleges: New York University, Parsons School Design, and the New School for Social Research. The
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East Village, located, as its name suggests, east of Greenwich Village, is the edgier counterpart of the Village, although even this formerly gritty area has become more fashionable and expensive since the 1980s. However, it remains a focal point for the city’s pierced and tattooed youth culture, a popular site for after-hours clubs, and an ethnically diverse area. Chelsea, stretching from 14th Street to about 30th Street, west of Sixth Avenue, is yet another neighborhood traditionally linked with artists and writers, especially through its most famous landmark, the Chelsea Hotel. Today it is home to large Hispanic and gay communities, and its “main drag,” Eighth Avenue between 15th and 23rd streets, is known for its cafes, bistros, boutiques, fitness clubs, and the Chelsea Piers sports complex, which includes a climbing wall. Midtown Manhattan is primarily a business rather than a residential neighborhood. Home to numerous corporate headquarters—including those of many entertainment and communications giants—it is also the site of landmarks including Rockefeller Center, Radio City Music Hall, the Museum of Modern Art, and the main branch of the New York Public Library, “guarded” by the famous stone lions outside its front entrance. New York’s Upper West Side is a colorful, heavily residential area that is home to many middle-class families and young professionals, although its residents run the gamut from homelessness to upper-echelon wealth. The
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New York neighborhood’s landmarks include the Lincoln Center performing arts complex, the Museum of Natural History, and, at its northernmost point, Columbia University. The major thoroughfare in this district is Broadway, which offers a wide variety of shopping experiences, including Zabar’s gourmet foods and Shakespeare & Company’s eclectic book selection. The Upper East Side is New York’s most exclusive neighborhood. Its residents live in posh apartment buildings with uniformed doormen; its visitors stay at luxury hotels. It is home to Christie’s and Sotheby’s auction houses, Bloomingdale’s, and a host of foreign embassies and consulates, as well as the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Guggenheim and Frick museums. Washington Heights, at the northern end of the city, is primarily a Latino enclave. Home to the largest Dominican population in the United States, in recent decades it has been plagued by problems associated with the drug trade. However, it is still the site of noteworthy landmarks, including the Cloisters (home of the Metropolitan Museum’s medieval collection), the Audubon Ballroom, Columbia Presbyterian Medical Center, and Yeshiva University. Beginning at 125th Street on the West Side and 96th Street on the East Side, Harlem is America’s most famous black neighborhood. From the days of the 1920s literary and cultural phenomenon known as the Harlem Renaissance until urban decay and violence set in the 1960s, the neighborhood was a unique cultural and political center and home to many
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famous black musicians and intellectuals, and such historic venues as the Cotton Club and the Apollo Theater. 6
History
Four hundred years ago, the present-day site of New York City was forest land inhabited by Algonquin and Iroquois Indians who called the central island “Manhattan,” which meant “city of hills.” In 1609 Henry Hudson (c. 1550–1611), an Englishman employed by the Dutch East India Company, sailed up the river that now bears his name, and settlement of the region began five years later. In 1625 the first permanent European settlement—a trading post called New Amsterdam— was formed on Manhattan, and the Dutch “purchased” the island from its Native American inhabitants by bartering items that amounted to the modern equivalent of $24. By 1664, the Netherlands’ colonial rivals, the British, had taken control of the growing settlement and renamed it New York, and it became their secondbusiest trading port in North America, surpassed only by Boston to the north. The rapidly growing town had about 4,000 residents by the turn of the century, and had nearly doubled its population by 1720, becoming the thirdlargest population center in the British colonies. New Yorkers played an active role in the agitation that led to the American Revolutionary Revolutionary War (1775–83). The city was overrun and occupied by British forces early in the war, and the occupation continued
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New York throughout the conflict. In the period after the colonies won their independence, New York served briefly as the seat of the new nation’s government (from 1785 to 1790). By the beginning of the nineteenth century, New York—with a population of 30,000—had become the nation’s second-largest city, after Philadelphia. In the first half of the century, the city’s growth was further bolstered by the opening of the Erie Canal linking the East Coast with the Great Lakes, and by the first waves of mass immigration, from Ireland, Germany, and Scandinavia. Although New York was a center of the abolitionist movement, pro-slavery feeling was strong among unskilled laborers who feared that their jobs would be threatened by freed slaves. The Civil War (1861–65) brought a new economic boom, and the city’s population reached one million by the 1870s. By this time, New York’s government had become a locus of graft and corruption under the infamous Tammany Hall political machine, which spurred a series of political reforms. The last two decades of the century saw new waves of immigration, much of it from Eastern Europe, and the completion of some of the city’s greatest landmarks, including the Metropolitan Opera House and the Statue of Liberty (1882), and the Brooklyn Bridge (1883). The immigration station at Ellis Island opened in 1892. In 1898 New York achieved its present form with the official consolidation of its five boroughs to form
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The Statue of Liberty was given to the United States as a symbol of friendship in the early 1880s. (Bernard Boutrit; Woodfin Camp)
Greater New York City, with a population of three million. The shape of things to come was previewed in the first years of the new century: the Flatiron building—one of its first skyscrapers—went up in 1902, and the first subway line opened in 1904. During World War I (1914–18), New York was a major shipping center for Allied weapons and military equipment. The 1920s brought an era of cultural brilliance marked by the achievements of the Harlem Renaissance, the heyday of the Algonquin Round Table and the founding of the New Yorker magazine, and the
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New York growth of Greenwich Village as a bohemian mecca for writers and others involved in the arts. In 1929 New York was the epicenter of the stock market crash that ushered in the Great Depression of the following decade. Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia (1882–1947; mayor, 1933–1945) led the city through these dark times, which nevertheless saw the construction of the Empire State Building, Rockefeller Center, and the Chrysler Building, the reform of local government, the hosting of two World’s Fairs, and the introduction of the Art Deco style into art and architecture. New York’s international stature was further enhanced with the establishment of United Nations headquarters in the city following World War II (1939–45). It was also during the postwar era that the city became an international leader in the fields of culture and fashion. In every decade, the city became a focal point for trends in popular culture, from the literary “beat generation” of the 1950s to the counterculture of the 1960s and the opening of the disco club Studio 54 in the 1970s. Beginning in the 1950s, a wave of Puerto Rican immigration and increased migration of blacks to the city from rural areas transformed the city’s ethnic makeup, leading to the flight of whites from the city and the eruption of racial tensions in the 1960s. The erosion of the city’s tax base, aggravated by the flight of businesses, brought the city to the point of bankruptcy by 1975. It was rescued by the newly formed Municipal Assistance Corporation, and a new mayor, Ed Koch (b. 1924; mayor
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1978–90) helped reverse the city’s decline through his policies and his popularity with ordinary citizens. By the late 1980s New York, together with much of the country, was slipping into recession. In 1989 the city elected its first black mayor, David Dinkins (b. 1927; mayor 1990–1994), who was replaced in the 1993 mayoral election by U.S. attorney Rudolph Giuliani (b. 1944; mayor 1994–), the first Republican to hold the post in 28 years. The city’s fortunes revived in the 1990s as the city shared in the country’s economic upswing, and tourism boomed. Giuliani was credited with a major decrease in the New York’s crime rate, although the city’s police department drew universal condemnation in the late 1990s for widely publicized incidents of brutality against members of minority groups. 7
Government
New York City has a mayor-council government. The mayor and the council president (who presides over council meetings) are elected to four-years terms by all the city’s voters. Of the 51 council members (all of whom also serve four-year terms), 35 are elected from their own districts, and 16 are elected at large. New York had an estimated 232,588 city employees in 1997. 8
Public Safety
In spite of its violent reputation, New York City actually has less crime per capita than a number of other major cities, including Washington,
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New York
Not only is New York City a financial and economic center, but it is also the headquarters to the United Nations. (Frank Fournier; Woodfin Camp)
D.C., Boston, New Orleans, and Dallas. The city’s crime rate actually has dropped in recent years, thanks partly to public safety policies, such as gun amnesties and gun confiscation, as well as anti-drug initiatives. In 1997, New York’s crime rate was the lowest it had been since 1968. The New York Police Department is one of the country’s largest. It covers a jurisdiction of some 829 square kilometers (320 square miles) and has an annual budget of $2.4 million. Over 38,000 uniformed officers and about 9,000 civilians are employed by the department. The city’s five boroughs are divided into eight Patrol Bor-
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ough Commands, which are in turn subdivided into 76 precincts. In 1995, violent crimes reported to police (per 100,000 population) totaled 1,573 and included 16 murders, 32 rapes, 810 robberies, and 715 aggravated assaults. Property crimes totaled 4,503 and included 1,009 burglaries, 2,500 cases of larceny/theft, and 993 motor vehicle thefts. 9
Economy
With over 200,000 businesses—and the headquarters of some 65 Fortune 500 companies—New York is one of the
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New York country’s major economic and financial centers. All of the world’s major financial institutions—including some 400 foreign banks—have offices in the city, and more than $15 billion worth of stocks are traded every day on the New York Stock Exchange. In addition to banking and finance, New York is also an important center for the major service industries of insurance, accounting, and law. New York is the nation’s publishing capital. By far the largest number of major publishers in the country are located here, as well as the two leading newsmagazines, Time and Newsweek, and the major wire services, the Associated Press and United Press International. Film and television production are also thriving industries in New York. Madison Avenue is famed as the world’s advertising capital, and the city boasts over 1,000 ad agencies. Although it now takes a back seat to the service sector, manufacturing still plays an active role in New York’s economy. The city is home to some 11,000 manufacturers and 20 industrial parks. The garment industry, in which the city has historically been a leader, still employs approximately 75,000 people, and the city is known worldwide as a center of high fashion. New York is also known for its diamond and jewelry industry, which has traditionally been centered around Canal Street and West 47th Street. Newer sectors that are emerging as industrial leaders include semiconductors, computer equipment, and health-care equipment.
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Environment
Although New York is better known for skyscrapers and traffic congestion, the city Department of Parks and Recreation has jurisdiction over 834 square kilometers (322 square miles) of urban wilderness, including 83,368 hectares (206,000 acres) of parkland and 2,024 hectares (5,000 acres) of forest preserves. Also included in the resources protected by the parks department are approximately 500,000 trees located on the city’s streets. These trees are also protected by the Department of Environmental Conservation and citizens’ groups, notably Trees New York, founded in 1976. In addition, volunteers are helping restore 341 hectares (843 acres) of wildlife habitat in Central Park, including areas frequented by migrating birds and the New Yorkers who gather regularly to watch them. Also within the city’s borders are beachfront wildlife habitats, such as that along Rockaway Peninsula in Queens, which is home to two federally listed endangered species and one listed by the state of New York. The city’s Urban Park Rangers have taken measures to protect these rare beachdwelling species, including monitoring, patrolling, vehicle exclusion, and fencing. 11
Shopping
New York is a mecca for shoppers, in terms of sheer abundance and variety. The most famous shopping venue is Fifth Avenue, with its major department stores, including Saks Fifth Ave-
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New York nue and Lord & Taylor, and large bookstores (Borders, Barnes & Noble, Rizzoli). Specialty retailers include Cartier, Tiffany, the Warner Brothers Studio Store, and the famed toy store FAO Schwarz. Also located on Fifth Avenue is the Trump Tower shopping complex, which boasts more than 40 stores and restaurants. Seventh Avenue is home to garment and fur wholesalers (some of which will also sell retail). In the Chelsea neighborhood are the Manhattan Mall and Macy’s (West 34th St.), the world’s largest department store. The Upper East Side mixes upscale retailers, including Bloomingdale’s, with fashionable second-hand shops. The Lower East Side is famous as a bargain hunter’s paradise, with designer clothing and other high-quality items regularly sold at a discount, especially on Orchard Street, the best-known shopping venue in the area. Specialty shops and boutiques abound in Greenwich Village, whose Bleecker Street is home to ethnic bakeries and grocery stores. A special form of shopping is available at New York’s exclusive auction houses, which include Christie’s and Sotheby’s, and the city’s many museum gift shops also offer unusual and highquality items. Mixing commerce and local color are New York’s open-air markets, which sell everything from flowers to antiques. Specialty gourmet food markets include Dean & Deluca, Zabar’s, and Balducci’s.
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12
Education
In the fall of 1996 the New York City Public School System—the nation’s largest—enrolled 1,063,561 students in grades K through 12; 16.1 percent were white, and 83.9 percent belonged to minorities, including 37.3 percent Hispanic, 36.1 percent black, and ten percent Asian/Pacific Islander. The school system operated 1,120 schools with a staff of 110,709, of whom 57,338 were teachers, making a pupil-teacher ratio of 18 to one. The school system has won acclaim for its career magnet schools, which include the High School of Music and Art, the High School of Fashion Industries, the School of the Performing Arts, the New York School of Printing, Bronx High School of Science, and Stuyvesant High School. The City University of New York operates branches in all five boroughs, including eight liberal arts colleges, the Mount Sinai School of Medicine, and the John Jay College of Criminal Justice. Since 1970, the city university system has had an open admissions policy for all New York City high school graduates. New York also has more than 20 private colleges, some of the best known being Columbia University (the oldest), New York University, Fordham University, Rockefeller University, and the Juilliard School, which trains students for careers in music, theater, and dance. 13
Health Care
New York City has over 130 hospitals, including more than 30 teaching
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New York hospitals. Its public hospital system is the largest in the country, employing over 45,000 people at over 20 facilities, including acute care hospitals, longterm care institutions, and family care centers. Among the city’s best-known hospitals are Columbia-Presbyterian Medical Center, Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center, and Mount Sinai Medical Center, whose health system consists of 21 hospitals and 13 longterm care facilities. The New York University School of Medicine, which dates back to 1837, has 1,360 full-time and 2,175 part-time faculty members. In 1995, New York’s primary metropolitan statistical area was served by 19,337 office-based physicians and 84 community hospitals, with a total of 39,205 beds. 14
Media
New York’s major daily newspaper is the New York Times, the nation’s “paper of record.” Although competition from the city’s spirited tabloid publications has expanded the Times’ local coverage, it is still known for the breadth and depth of its international and national coverage and its news analysis, as well as its coverage of specific areas such as business and the arts. Favorite features of the Sunday edition include the weekly magazine, the book review supplement (whose reviews are influential throughout the literary and academic world), and the notoriously huge and difficult crossword puzzle. Specializing in local news are the city’s two remaining tabloid newspa-
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pers, the New York Post (the city’s oldest newspaper, founded in 1801), and the New York Daily News. Among the mostquoted examples of their bold banner headlines are the Daily News’ “FORD TO CITY—DROP DEAD” (referring to President Gerald Ford and the 1970s budget crisis) and the Post’s “HEADLESS WOMAN FOUND IN TOPLESS BAR.” A fourth daily newspaper is published in New York: the Wall Street Journal, the country’s most authoritative financial publication. The city’s best-known weekly newspaper is the Village Voice, which features investigative reporting on local topics and comprehensive arts coverage and listings. Other weeklies include New York magazine, Time Out New York, and the New York Press. Another local publication with a national audience is the New Yorker magazine (also a weekly), whose tradition of urbanity and high-quality writing received a contemporary spin in the 1990s by British-born editor Tina Brown. In addition to the wide spectrum of cable television programming, New York has over a dozen broadcast television stations, representing the four major networks and the Public Broadcasting System (PBS), as well as independent, educational, and Spanishlanguage stations. The city also has 17 AM and 33 FM radio stations. 15
Sports
The professional sports scene in New York is a busy one, with two major league teams in all the main profes-
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New York
Central Park offers many recreational activities—Central Park Zoo, the International Peace Garden, Belvedere Castle Shakespeare Garden, Conservatory Garden, and ice-skating on Wolman Skating Rink. (Bernard Boutrit; Woodfin Camp)
sional sports. The New York Yankees of the American League, who play at Yankee Stadium in the Bronx, are the city’s most famous sports team. The team of such baseball legends as Babe Ruth (1895–1948) and Joe DiMaggio (1914– 99), the Yankees have won more World Series than any other baseball team. The New York Mets, of the National League, play at Shea Stadium in Queens. In football, New York is home to New York Giants and the New York Jets; both teams play at Giants Stadium
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in the Meadowlands Sports Complex in New Jersey. New York has two NBA (National Basketball Association) teams: the Knicks, who play at Madison Square Garden, and the Jets, who play at Continental Airlines Arena. The city’s two NHL (National Hockey League) teams are the New York Islanders, who play at the Nassau Coliseum, and the New York Rangers, who play at Madison Square Garden. The New York area also has four horse racing tracks (the Aqueduct, Bel-
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New York mont, and Meadowlands race tracks and the Yonkers Raceway) and is the site of the annual U.S. Open tennis championship games. 16
Parks and Recreation
Extending over 341 hectares (843 acres) at the heart of the city, Central Park is one of New York’s most famous landmarks. Designed by famed landscape architect Frederick Law Olmstead (1822–1903), together with Calvert Vaux (1824–95), the park was laid out between 1859 and 1870. In spite of its association with some high-profile crimes, the park is still heavily used by a wide spectrum of New Yorkers, from joggers and rollerbladers to picnicking families. Special features of the park include the Central Park Zoo (and recently opened children’s petting zoo), International Peace Garden, Belvedere Castle Shakespeare Garden, Conservatory Garden, and many others. Other parks in Manhattan include Battery Park, at the island’s southern-most tip; Bryant Park, located behind the public library at 42nd Street; Union Square Park, Gramercy Park, and Washington Square Park. The Bronx Zoo—one of the nation’s most famous—is home to more than 4,000 animals. Over the years, the century-old facility has transferred many of its animals from cages to areas resembling their natural habitats, a change reflected in the zoo’s current name: the Bronx Zoo/Wildlife Conservation Park. Also located in the Bronx is
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the 101-hectare (250-acre) New York Botanical Garden, the city’s oldest and largest public garden. Brooklyn is home to the Brooklyn Botanic Garden and Prospect Park, and Flushing MeadowCorona Park is located in Queens. In Manhattan, Central Park is a favorite venue for recreational activities of many kinds, including jogging, inline skating, walking, frisbee, and bicycling (altogether New York has some 161 kilometers/100 miles of bicycle paths). The Chelsea Piers Sports and Entertainment Complex in the Chelsea neighborhood offers a gymnastics center, golf club, running track, roller and ice-skating rinks, and rock-climbing wall. 17
Performing Arts
Home to 240 performance venues, including such famous sites as Carnegie Hall, Radio City Music Hall, and Lincoln Center, New York is one of the world’s great centers for the performing arts. It is the theatrical capital of the nation, with performances ranging from large, expensive Broadway hits to the smaller and more innovative OffBroadway and Off-Off-Broadway productions (the last two designations are actually determined by the size of the theater rather than its location). New York is also home to the prestigious New York Shakespeare Festival, which mounts productions at the Joseph Papp Public Theater most of the year and presents the Shakespeare in the Park series in Central Park in the summer.
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New York
The All-Star Cafe is just one of the many shops and restaurants lining Times Square. (Bernard Boutrit; Woodfin Camp)
New York is home to the New York Philharmonic, one of the nation’s most acclaimed symphony orchestras (and its oldest), and the country’s premier opera company (the Metropolitan Opera), as well as classical music ensembles of all kinds, from early music groups to those specializing in contemporary performance. Opera is also presented by the New York City Opera and several other groups. In addition to the famous Juilliard School, the city is home to two other highly regarded schools of music, the Manhattan School Music and the Mannes College of Music, both of which present their own concert series
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featuring performances by both students and faculty. A unique classical music experience is offered by Bargemusic, a series of chamber music concerts presented on a boat docked on the East River. New York is also a thriving center for all kinds of dance and is particularly known for its classical ballet companies, notably the American Ballet Theater and the New York City Ballet, which have boasted such illustrious names as George Balanchine, Jerome Robbins, and Mikhail Baryshnikov. New York also has several other ballet companies,
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New York and modern dance is represented by the Merce Cunningham Dance Company and other groups. Many types of popular music— including jazz, rock, blues, and Latin music—thrive in New York in clubs scattered throughout the city. Among the city’s legendary jazz clubs are the Blue Note, Sweet Basil, the Five Spot, and the Village Vanguard. 18
Libraries and Museums
The main branch of the New York Public Library has one of the world’s five largest library collections, with book stacks stored on eight different levels and covering an area of at least half an acre. Its legendary reading room is one of the city’s treasures. Founded in 1895, the New York Public Library System consists of both research libraries and branch libraries that serve the boroughs of Manhattan, the Bronx, and Staten Island. The library’s book holdings total 17,762,034 volumes. The library system operates 79 neighborhood branches, serving a population of 3,070,302, with an annual circulation of over 11 million items. There are 150 museums and some 400 art galleries in New York. With over 3.5 million artworks, the Metropolitan Museum of Art is the largest museum in the Western Hemisphere, as well as the premier American museum. Its 148,640 square meters (1.6 million square feet) house not only its famed European and American collections, but also extensive Asian, Classical, and Islamic collections.
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Special features include the Frank Lloyd Wright Room, a Costume Hall, the largest Arms and Armor galleries in the West, and a Musical Instrument Collection containing the world’s oldest piano. The Cloisters at the northernmost tip of Manhattan houses the museum’s medieval collection. The Museum of Modern Art (known as MOMA) has one of the world’s most extensive collections of modern art, with holdings that include not only paintings and sculpture but also architectural plans, photographs, and films (two classic or foreign films are screened daily). The Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum displays twentieth-century artworks in a unique Frank Lloyd Wright-designed building featuring a spiral that winds down through six levels of displays on its outer walls. A ten-story annex completed in 1992 provides room for four additional galleries. Manhattan’s other museums include the Frick and Whitney collections; the Lower East Side Tenement Museum, which features a restored tenement that re-creates nineteenth-century apartment life as lived by New York’s immigrant population; the Jewish Museum; the Children’s Museum of Manhattan; El Museo del Barrio; and the International Center of Photography. Museums in New York’s other boroughs include the Brooklyn Museum, the New York Transit Museum, and the Brooklyn Historical Society in Brooklyn and the American Museum of the Moving Image in Queens.
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New York
To u r i s m
19
MAY-AUGUST Seafest
Over 25 million people visit New York every year to see its historic landmarks, sample its cultural activities, and enjoy its fine dining and varied shopping. The city’s hotel rooms have an average occupancy rate of about threequarters, and new hotel construction activity has been brisk in recent years. Conventions generate millions of dollars in income annually for the city.
JUNE
New York attracts more foreign visitors than any other U.S. city. In 1995 approximately 4,252,000 foreign travelers visited the city.
JUNE-AUGUST
20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Martin Luther King Jr. Birthday Observance National Black Fine Art Show New York National Boat Show Outsider Art Fair
American Crafts Festival Belmont Stakes JVC Jazz Festival New York Lesbian & Gay Film Festival Queens Day Festival Texaco New York Jazz Festival Welcome Back to Brooklyn Festival
JUNE-JULY Shakespeare in the Park Washington Square Music Festival Bryant Park Summer Film Festival SummerStage
JULY Fourth of July Concert in Battery Park Great July Fourth Festival Lincoln Center Festival Macy’s Fireworks Celebration
JULY-AUGUST Celebrate Brooklyn Festival Mostly Mozart Festival
JULY-OCTOBER Moonlight Dancing in the Park
AUGUST-SEPTEMBER
FEBRUARY
U.S. Open Tennis Championships
Chinese New Year Celebrations
SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER
MARCH
New York Film Festival
Art Expo New York New York Restaurant & Foodservice Show New York Underground Film Festival Saint Patrick’s Day Parade
OCTOBER
MARCH-APRIL
OCTOBER-JANUARY
Passports to Off-Broadway Theatres
APRIL African Film Festival
APRIL-MAY Music Hall at Snug Harbor
MAY Ninth Avenue International Food Festival Crafts on Columbus Brooklyn Botanic Garden Center Flower Sale
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Fifth Avenue Art & Antiques Show Chrysanthemum & Bonsai Festival Greenwich Village Halloween Parade Big Apple Circus
NOVEMBER Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade New York Marathon
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER Radio City Christmas Spectacular
DECEMBER First Night New York Rockefeller Center Christmas Tree Lighting Paul Winter’s Winter Solstice Celebration
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New York New Year’s Celebration & Ball Drop in Times Square
Architect Philip Johnson (b. 1906).
DECEMBER-JANUARY
Former mayor Ed Koch (b. 1924).
Empire State Building Holiday Lights Lincoln Center Family Art Show Winter Wildlife Holiday Events
Former mayor Fiorello LaGuar dia (1882–1947).
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Famous Citizens
Novelist Norman Mailer (b. 1923).
Film director, comedian, and author Woody Allen (b. 1935).
Industrialist and financier J. Pierpont Morgan (1837–1913).
A b o l i t i on i s t H e n r y Wa rd B e e c h e r (1813–1887).
City planner Robert Moses (1889– 1981).
Poet William Cullen Bryant (1794– 1878).
Landscape architect Frederick Law Olmstead (1822–1903).
Statesman Aaron Burr (1756–1836).
First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis (1929–94).
Industrialist and philanthropist Andrew Carnegie (1835–1919). Composer George M. Cohan (1878– 1942). Former New York state governor Mario Cuomo (b. 1932). Former New York City mayor David N. Dinkins (b. 1927). African-American activist Marcus Garvey (1887–1940). “Beat” poet Allen Ginsberg (1926– 1997). Journalist Horace Greeley (1811–72). Writer and editor Pete Hamill (b. 1935).
Playwright Eugene O’Neill (1888–1953). Humorist Dorothy Parker (1893–1967). Photojournalist Jacob Riis (1849–1914). Oil magnate John D. Rockefeller (1839– 1937). New York governor Nelson Rockefeller (1908–79). Comedian Jerry Seinfeld (b. 1954). Playwright Neil Simon (b. 1927). Baseball entrepreneur George Steinbrenner (b. 1930).
Statesman Alexander Hamilton (1755– 1804).
Real estate developer Donald Trump (b. 1946).
Artist Keith Haring (1938–90).
Railroad magnate Cornelius Vanderbilt (1794–1877).
Author Washington Ir ving (1783– 1859).
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Pop artist Andy Warhol (1926–1987).
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New York 22
For Further Study
Websites
The New York Times 229 W. 43rd St. New York, NY 10036
New York Convention and Visitors Bureau. [Online] Available http://www.nycvisit.com/ (accessed October 14, 1999). The Official New York City Website. [Online] Available http://www.ci.nyc.ny.us/ (accessed October 14, 1999).
The Village Voice 36 Cooper Square New York, NY 10003
Government Offices
Books
Mayor’s Office 1 Centre St. Municipal Building New York, NY 10007 (212) 788-3000 New York City Hall 1 Centre St. Municipal Building New York, NY 10007 (212) 788-3000 New York County 60 Centre St. New York, NY 10007 (212) 374-8359
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Jacob K. Javits Convention Center 655 W. 34th St. New York, NY 10001 (212) 216-2300 New York Convention & Visitors Bureau 810 7th Avenue, 3rd Fl. New York, NY 10019 (212) 484-1200
Publications The New York Post 1211 Avenue of the Americas New York, NY 10036
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The Wall Street Journal 200 Liberty St. New York, NY 10281
Alleman, Richard. The Movie Lover’s Guide to New York. New York: Perennial Library, 1988. Auster, Paul. The New York Trilogy: City of Glass, Ghosts, and The Locked Room. San Bernardino, CA: Borgo Press, 1996. Baldwin, James. Another Country. New York: Dial Press, 1962. Barile, Susan Paula. The Bookworm’s Big Apple: A Guide to Manhattan’s Booksellers. New York: Columbia University Press, 1994. Biondi, Joann, and James Kaskins. Hippocrene U.S.A. Guide to Black New York. New York: Hippocrene Books, 1994. Hijuelos, Oscar. Our House in the Last World. New York: Persea Books, 1983. Jackson, Kenneth T., ed. The Encyclopedia of New York City. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press, 1995. Leeds, Mark. Ethnic New York. Lincolnwood, IL: Passport Books, 1995. Mitchell, Joseph. Up in the Old Hotel. New York: Pantheon Books, 1992. Parker, Dorothy. Complete Stories. New York: Penguin, 1995. Riis, Jacob. How the Other Half Lives. New York: Penguin Books, 1997. Roth, Andrew. Infamous Manhattan. New York: Carol Publishing Group, 1996. White, N., and E. Willensky, eds. AIA Guide to New York. San Diego: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1988.
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Paris Paris, France, Europe Founded: 53 B.C. Location: North-central France, Western Europe Motto: Fluctuat nec mergitur (“Battered, but never sinks”) Flag: Shield with white sailing ship and three yellow fleur de lys centered on a field with blue (left) and red (right) halves. Time Zone: 11 AM = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT); 6 AM = noon Eastern Standard Time (EST) Climate: Moderate. Winters are damp, but not severe. Snowfall is light; sunshine is rare in winter; gray, foggy days are frequent. Summer temperatures are rarely oppressive, but rain can be heavy. Annual Mean Temperature: 12°C (54°F) Average Annual Precipitation (total rainfall and melted snow): 68 cm (27 in) Government: Mayor-council Weights and Measures: Metric Monetary Units: The franc, with one hundred centimes to a franc Postal Codes: Five-digits beginning with 75.
1
Introduction
Paris is synonymous with all that is French. Known throughout the world as the “City of Light,” Paris is celebrated for its beautiful city plan, its architecture, museums, bridges, cathedrals, parks, shopping, flea markets, sidewalk cafés, wide and luxurious boulevards, elegant cuisine, and numerous monuments. Once confined to an island in the middle of the Seine River, the Ile de la Cité, Paris, founded more than 2,000 years ago, quickly spread to both banks of the river—the rive droit (right bank) and the rive gauche (left bank). The right bank is known for being the commercial heart of the city while the left bank is home to the University of Paris and all that is intellectual and artsy. Paris has always been known to have the
aura of romance and mystery and has been the setting for many novels and movies. A character in a play by Oscar Wilde said, “When good Americans die, they go to Paris.” 2
Getting There
Paris is easily accessible by plane, railroad, and automobile. Highways Driving to Paris from anywhere in France, road markers can be found indicating routes to Paris. There is a stone marker in front of Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris from which all French roads begin.
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Paris
Paris Population Profile
Austria). The information web site is www.sncf.fr. Airports
City Proper Population: 2,200,000 Area: 100 sq km (40 sq mi) Nicknames: The City of Light
Metropolitan Area Population: 9,638,000 Description: The 20 total arrondissements World population rank1: 22 Percentage of national population2: 16.3% Average yearly growth rate: 0.2% ——— 1. The Paris metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of France’s total population living in the Paris metropolitan area.
Railroad Service The letters S.N.C.F. indicate the French railway system, which is quite extensive. Paris is the center of the TGV (high speed train). One must make reservations in advance to ride this train. Train stations that connect Paris to the rest of Europe are the Gare de Lyon (for trains arriving from Switzerland, Italy, and Greece); the Gare d’Austerlitz (for trains arriving from Spain and Portugal); the Gare Montparnasse (for trains arriving from western France); the Gare Saint-Lazare (for connection with boats arriving in Normandy from the United States and Great Britain); the Gare du Nord (for trains arriving from Great Britain, Belguim, Holland, and Scandinavia); the Gare de l'Est (for trains arriving from Germany, Switzerland, and
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Two main airports, Roissey-Charles de Gaulle and Orly, serve the metropolis of Paris and neighboring areas. From these airports travelers can easily take public transportation (subway) or taxis to the heart of Paris in less than an hour. For more specific information, visitors can visit the Office du Tourisme booth in either airport. 3
Getting Around
Bus and Commuter Rail Service Paris has many buses and local trains (called the RER), but the main mode of travel around Paris is the Metro or subway. No place in Paris is less than 500 meters (1500 feet) away from a metro stop. The cheapest way to travel is to buy a booklet (carnet) of ten tickets for use on the metro and city buses. There are 368 metro stations in Paris serving more than six million people every day. To see more sights and have more time, the city buses are a more picturesque way to travel. Maps inside the metro indicate the shortest way to a given destination, as well as where to change trains if necessary. The metro is indicated by the letters R.A.T.P. The web site offering practical information, routes, and maps is www.ratp.fr. Sightseeing The best tours of Paris are by boat. One can get a one-hour cruise on the
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Paris
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Paris
City Fact Comparison Paris (France)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
9,638,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
53 BC
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$146
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$79
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$20
$14
$15
$16
$245
$173
$246
$207
33
13
20
11
Le Parisien
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
451,159
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1944
1944
1976
1948
Total daily costs Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established 1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
Seine in a sightseeing boat or bateaumouche, which points out the main monuments, bridges, and cathedrals (the best view ever of Notre Dame) and gives a history of the city. Bus tours are provided by various companies: Cityrama, Vision, and Parisbus are a few of the large companies. 4
People
Paris is the most populated city in France. The last estimate (1997) claimed 2,152,000 inhabitants lived in Paris. However, there are about ten million more people in the metropolitan area. Until World War II (1939–45), the pop-
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ulation of France was largely monolithic in character. Most French people are descended from ancient Teutonic and Celtic tribes dating from at least 200 B.C. The language of the Parisians is French, which is required in all statesupported schools. After World War II, many people from former French colonies in Africa and Indonesia immigrated to France and particularly to Paris where they could find employment. Consequently, the population of Paris, although largely of original French stock, now includes people of African and Indochinese descent. Although these people speak a variety
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Paris of languages, French is the only official language of France.
I (1769–1821) to commemorate his military victories.
A full 90 percent of Parisians claim to be of the Roman Catholic faith. However, as in any large metropolis, Jewish, Buddhist, Hindu, and Protestant Christian faiths are represented. There are many Protestant churches as well as Jewish synogogues, the most renowned being the Rothschild Synogogue. The imposing structure of Notre Dame Cathedral on the Ile de la Cité speaks for the majority Catholic influence on the city.
2nd Arrondissement
The French are wildly enamored with their pet dogs. Dogs can be seen everywhere—even in fancy restaurants. 5
Neighborhoods
Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements (wards). They are referred to as arrondissements in English as well as in French. Each arrondissement has its own character. Central Paris is comprised of the first eight arrondissements; it is in these eight that most of the major historical and cultural sites of the city can be found. The remaining 12 make up the surrounding area. 1st Arrondissement At one end of the Champs Elysées is the Louvre, arguably the greatest art museum in the world. Formerly the palace of the kings of France, the Louvre looks out on the Champs Elysées to the Place de la Concorde with its Egyptian oblelisk, and on to the Arc de Triomphe, built by the Emperor Napoleon
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There are the banks, the stock exchange (La Bourse), and some wholesale fashion stores. 3rd Arrondissement This district is called the Marais. An ethnic mélange, the Marais was once home to the majority of the Jewish population of Paris. It has undergone some urban renovation at many times in the history of Paris. 4th Arrondissement The Ile de la Cité, the island in the middle of the River Seine, comprises this arrondissement. This was the original site of Paris at its beginnings, and it boasts the gorgeous cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris. Bridges cross the Ile, so sightseers can visit Notre Dame Cathedral on walking tours, as well as by way of the Metro or bus. 5th Arrondissement On the Left Bank, the Quartier Latin, home of the University of Paris (Sorbonne college of arts and sciences), is the main living quarters for students and artists. There are many good places to eat and fine entertainment, such as the Comédie Française. 6th Arrondissement Charming cafés attract many intellectuals and college students in this district.
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Paris
A view of Paris from the Eiffel Tower. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
7th Arrondissement Also on the Left Bank is the famous Eiffel Tower (La Tour Eiffel). Visible from all points in Paris, the main entrance to this monument is on the Champ de Mars. One can also visit the Musée D'Orsay, dedicated to French Impressionist paintings.
12 large boulevards going out into various points of Paris and beyond. Ile Saint-Louis A neighbor to Ile de la Cité, Ile Saint-Louis is renowned for a beautiful, small church called the SainteChapelle.
8th Arrondissement
La Défense
At the end of the Champs Elysées is the Arc de Triomphe built by the French Emperor Napoleon to commemorate his military victories. The Arc is located over a traffic circle called the Place Charles de Gaulle (formerly la Place de l'Etoile). This point is the beginning of
The newest development in Paris is the business and residential center to the west of Paris called La Défense. This area, developed in the 1960s and 1970s, has a new arch called the Grande Arche to celebrate the bicentennial of the French Revolution. It is set in a straight
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Paris line with the Champs Elysées. There are many modern high-rise buildings that do not have to conform to the old building codes of Paris. Montmartre High on a hill overlooking the city is the area of Montmartre. The basilica of Sacré Coeur and many of the famous cabarets, including the Folies Bergères at le Moulin Rouge—home of the cancan dance—are located here. Le Marais Once known as the old Jewish quarter, Le Marais (once a swamp) is home to small hotels, restaurants, and bars. It is bordered by the Rue Beaubourg and the Boulevard Beaumarchais. Beaubourg Once an embarrassing slum, the district of Beaubourg has been renovated and showcases the Centre Georges Pompidou. Pompidou was once the president of France. The center has a museum of modern art and a performing arts theater. Neuilly, Auteuil, and Passy The rich and super-rich inhabit these beautiful suburbs of the chic sixteenth and seventeenth arrondissements west of the city. 6
History
The history of Paris goes back more than 2,000 years when some 60 Celtic tribes called the Gauls inhabited the
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region, most notably in the Paris Basin on the Ile de la Cité. One of their tribes, the Parisii, eventually gave their name to the present-day city. The Gauls were composed of warrior tribes who hunted, fished, and lived in huts with thatched roofs. Their religion, called druidism, celebrated nature. Many present day religious festivals include remnants of druidic worship. The main festival, la fête du gui (mistletoe), welcomed in the new year. They also burned the Yule log to celebrate the return to light after a long dark season of winter. Their chief warrior, Vercingétorix, was defeated by the Roman army under Julius Caesar (c. 100–44 B.C.) in about 50 B.C. The Romans renamed the Gaulish capital Lutetia, which it remained until it was reconquered by a Germanic tribe called the Franks— hence the name for present day France (land of the Franks). Their king, Clovis (465–511) converted to Christianity and took the old name of Paris for its capital. By brute force, Clovis established the Merovingian dynasty of kings and established a code of laws known as the Salic Law. In 800, Charlemagne (747–814) moved his capital from Aix-la-Chapelle to Paris, thus solidifying Paris as the permanent capital city of what would become modern day France. Between 900 and 1000, another tribe of invaders called Vikings (actually Norsemen) repeatedly invaded and pillaged Paris until they eventually became a civilized part of the community. By the middle of the twelfth century, King Philippe Auguste (1165–
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Paris
Side view of the cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris (1163), a world-famous example of Gothic architecture. (Bernard Boutrit; Woodfin Camp)
1223) turned Paris into a true medieval city with a protective wall around it. He built his castle, which was little more than a fortress on the site of the modern-day Louvre. No one knows what the word Louvre means, except that it is thought to come from the Latin word for wolves. Philippe housed his wolfhunting dogs in the fortress. The Middle Ages saw the beginning of the construction of the cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris (1163), one of the most famous examples of Gothic architecture, and the founding of one of the greatest universities in the world, the University of Paris. The city of Paris, surrounded by walls, still was contained on the Ile de la Cité in the middle of the River Seine. Gradually the city of Paris became so heavily populated that the walls
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were erected further and further out to accommodate the growing community. The last of these protective walls was razed in 1919 by the government of the Third Republic. The kings of France slowly enlarged and modernized the Louvre to become the palace of kings. The French Revolution (1789–93) was a turning point for the modernization of Paris. During that turbulent period, there were riots in the streets, and the people barricaded the narrow, winding streets to thwart the power of the government. The reign of Emperor Napoleon I (1769–1821) saw the building of monuments and the creation of a modern sewer system, which beautified and cleansed the city. The brief restoration of the monarchy (1848–1870) saw the rebuilding of Paris from a medieval town to a city of breathtaking beauty
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Paris and grandeur. Under the leadership of Baron Haussmann (1809–1891), the boulevards were widened so that they could no longer be easily barricaded. Parks and monuments were created; the Louvre was completed; the Opera house was built; and an extensive system of sewers was constructed. The city was at that time organized into its present-day 20 arrondissements. Building codes were enforced to keep the neo-classical look and to maintain a low building height. In 1889, the World’s Fair came to Paris, which unveiled the newest crowning glory, the Eiffel Tower. At the time of its construction, it was thought to be a monstrosity, and the French people wanted it torn down immediately. The tower outlasted the controversy to become the symbol of Paris. In 1900, Paris joined London in the construction of the subway (the Métropolitain). The metro stations at the turn of the century were beautiful examples of Art Deco, with intricately designed ironwork gates. Some of these still exist today. During World War II, the city of Paris was almost destroyed by German bombs. Miraculously, Paris survived the war intact. All of the treasures in the Louvre art museum were hidden by the French people during the war, so they would not be taken by the invading German army. The government of General Charles de Gaulle brought the French government to the present Fifth Republic.
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Modern-day Paris is truly a feast for all of the senses. The classical beauty of the city is breathtaking at night when many of the monuments are lighted. A new opera house has been added at the former location of La Bastille (a political prison during the French Revolution), and some high-rise buildings have been constructed outside the central area. Basically, Paris remains true to the architectural plans of Baron Haussmann. The wide, main boulevards are crowded with people 24 hours a day. One can relax in a sidewalk café or visit any number of the many museums Paris has to offer. The cuisine is delicious, whether from a café or an elegant five-star restaurant. Shoppers can find the very latest in fashion or browse the flea markets for a bargain. New urban renewal during the 1990s saw the renovation of the Beaubourg area with the destruction of Les Halles (a central market place) and the creation of the Centre Pompidou (arts) in its place. New business centers in La Défense have been added to the International Communication Center. At the beginning of the twenty-first century, Paris has retained all the allure, mystery, and romance of its fabled past. That is why Paris is the number one destination for travelers around the world. 7
Government
The city of Paris is headed by an elected mayor. The mayor is in charge of the police force, which is headed by the préfet, and works with the town halls of the 20 arrondissements of Paris. The coat of arms of the city was created
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Paris in 1210 featuring a boat from the watermen’s guild. The motto Fluctuat nec Mergitur is the Latin for “buffeted by waves but does not sink” and was added in the sixteenth century. The Regional Council and the Economic and Social Committees govern any local problems. The most influential political parties are the Communist Party and the Socialist Party. The national government is a coalition government comprised of the various political parties. 8
Public Safety
All tourists visiting Paris, as well as France, must register with the police department. Usually the hotels will check passports and make a list of all registered guests. Paris has laws that prohibit the carrying of guns and is generally a safe city. However, there are always professional pickpockets and, as of late, gangs of small children organized by gangsters to be pickpockets reminiscent of those in Oliver Twist by Charles Dickens. 9
Economy
The French currency is called the franc, with 100 centimes to the franc. The economy of Paris is comprised of high finance, banking, and luxury tourist goods. The Champs Elysées and neighboring streets house many highfashion couturiers (designers), parfumiers (perfume shops), and other luxury items. Universities, museums, and cafés cater to tourists and residents alike. Government employees are numerous as France is a bureaucratic
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country. France is also a member of the European Economic Community. 10
Environment
Paris is divided by the Seine River, which drains west to the Atlantic Ocean. It is used for transportation and tourism. Many tour boats, called “bateaux mouches,” give tours of the city by circling the Ile de la Cité. Paris also has the feel of open spaces created by wide boulevards and parklands. The Champs Elysées is a 12-lane divided highway with wide sidewalks to encourage walking, window shopping, and people-watching at cafés. The Jardin du Luxembourg, the Bois de Boulogne, the Tuilerie Gardens, and the Place des Vosges (to name a few) give the tourists and residents beautiful garden spaces to relax and enjoy the magnificent views. There are many fountains and small squares in which to sit. Paris is very much a walking city. The sidewalks are always filled with strollers, as well as businessmen and tourists. The beautiful monuments give the city the air of an outdoor museum. The French government is concerned with cleanliness, and large fines are imposed for littering and graffiti. Every morning, workers armed with buckets and brooms can be seen sweeping the streets, getting the city ready for another day. 11
Shopping
Paris is a shopper's dream city. Two large department stores, Au Printemps and the Galeries Lafayette, can fill the most discerning shopper's wish list. The
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Paris Au Bon Marché has gourmet delicacies galore. There are also boutiques that cater to the high-end market. Designers such as Chanel, Yves St. Laurent, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, and Cartier are also located on or near the Champs Elysées. The Boulevard Montaigne, off the Champs Elysées, also houses many expensive boutiques. Also the Rue du Faubourg St. Honoré has many clothing stores. For budget-minded shoppers, the Monoprix or Prisunic (dime stores), supply some moderately priced souvenirs. Fine leather goods, jewelry, perfumes, clothing, wines, gourmet foods, and fine art are plentiful. Bargain hunters can cruise the flea market (marché aux puces). Sidewalk vendors (some very fine artists) are always displaying their wares. Along the banks of the Seine are also many artists and booksellers. On Sunday mornings near Notre Dame Cathedral, one can visit the bird market. Live caged canaries, finches, and other exotic birds are for sale. One of the most unique stores, almost a must for tourists, is Le Drugstore. This is a Parisian’s idea of an American drugstore. It has many high-priced goods for sale, as well as toiletries; however, the toiletries are too expensive there for the average tourist! 12
university. The catch is that one must pass a rigorous exam, called the baccalaureat, to gain entrance. Many students do not take this exam or fail it. School attendance is compulsory until age 16. One can decide on a college preparatory course or a technical course. All are free. The levels are in reverse— that is, kindergarten is level 13 while the senior level is called one or “classes terminales.” The educational system is run by the central government, which determines the curriculum. All students everywhere in France are studying the same lessons at pretty much the same time. If a student moves, he or she will fit right in to the new school curriculum because it will be exactly the same as the school he left. Students must study French at every grade level. The French are purists when it comes to language, and the courses are very difficult. Attention to grammar and spelling are important. People are constantly judged on their accent and grammar. Every educated person strives to attain a Parisian accent. Having other accents, such as that of southern France, is considered inferior. Discipline in French high schools (lycées) is strictly enforced. The famous cooking school Le Cordon Bleu offers courses in French, English, and Japanese.
Education
The University of Paris, on the left bank of the Seine, is arguably the most famous school in the world. Outsiders often refer to it as the Sorbonne, but that is only the school of arts and sciences. Everyone in France is entitled to a free education, including that of a
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13
Health Care
The government of France is largely socialistic. Every French citizen is afforded health care provided by the state. Taxes are very high—in some cases almost 60 percent of total income—but the government provides
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Paris newspaper at a local kiosk or a café. Usually these papers reflect different political thought or are business papers. Some of the more well-known newspapers include France-Soir, Le Monde, Le Figaro, and Le Canard Enchainé. Radio stations are also government controlled. France Inter (87.8MHz) is the main radio station. Recently, the government made it mandatory to play 60 percent of all music in French. This angered French teenagers who love to listen to British and American rock and roll. All advertising must be in French, except for foreign companies. 15 The Tour de France, a bicycle race through the countryside of France, begins and ends at the Arc de Triomphe. (Bernard Boutrit; Woodfin Camp)
most social services. Life expectancy for men is 74 years, and for women it is 82 years. There is one doctor for every 361 people, and infant mortality is five per 100 live births. Many French people smoke, and the government has only recently tried to discourage people from smoking. 14
Media
French television is controlled by the government (outside of satellite television). There are five stations: TF1, Antenne 2, FR 3, M 6, and Arte. The Parisians do not have their newspapers delivered to their homes because there are too many French publications. Each Parisian usually picks up his favorite
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Sports
One of the main sports in France is soccer. There is a French national team, as well as many university teams. Formula-One car racing, famous throughout Europe, is also very popular. The French Tennis Open is in June, just before Wimbledon in London. The most well-known sport, however, is cycling. The Tour de France, which takes place for about two weeks at the end of June and into July, is the most widely publicized sport. The race begins and ends in Paris with the winner cycling under the Arc de Triomphe and down the Champs Elysées. Another competitive sport is lawn bowling. This is played by average citizens, as well as championship teams. Information about sporting events can be found in the newspaper Le Figaro.
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Paris 16
Parks and Recreation
Paris is surrounded by greenery. The most famous park in Paris is the Bois de Boulogne. Comprising more than 809 hectares (2,000 acres), the Bois boasts walking trails, lakes for boating, two courses for horseracing (Longchamp and Auteuil), a children’s amusement park, an area for puppet shows, a miniature golf course, cafés and restaurants, a giant doll’s house, and a small zoo. Another famous garden is the Tuileries, located in front of the Louvre museum. At the Place des Vosges in the Marais district is a small park featuring the famous author Victor Hugo’s house. The Place de la Concorde has a beautiful fountain and small gardens. In the Seine River is an enclosed public swimming pool. On the left bank are the Luxembourg Gardens. Impressive fountains and beautiful statues representing Greek and Roman gods decorate this park. There is also the palace of Marie de’Medici (1573– 1652), wife of King Henri IV. Another huge parkland is the Bois de Vincennes. It is comparable to the Bois de Boulogne with a racecourse and a zoo. However, the zoo is larger in that the animals seem to roam free in unrestricted habitats. Off the Périférique (ring road) is the Parc de la Villette with an interactive science museum and IMAX theater. Just outside of Paris is the city of Versailles with the chateau of King Louis XIV (1754–93) with its magnifi-
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cent grounds and gardens. A one-day visit may not be long enough to see everything. By RER (local train) it is about a 40-minute ride from Paris to Versailles. Also just outside Paris is EuroDisneyland. As it is the same as the American Disney parks, American visitors may want to spend their time on other sites. Giverny, about 80 kilometers (50 miles) outside Paris, is the home and famous gardens of Impressionist painter Claude Monet (1840–1926). It was here that he painted the famous Waterlilies. 17
Performing Arts
The National French Theater, La Comédie Française, was established in 1680 under the direction of the cardinal Richelieu. Modern-day productions include mainly the works of classical French writers of the seventeenth century—Moliere, Racine, and Corneille. There are two opera houses—the Opéra Garnier, an eighteenth-century classical building, and the newer opera house at the Place de la Bastille. The Opéra Comique does light opera and works of French lyric composers. In the newer district of La Défense, the indoor arena of Bercy stages musical performances of popular performers. The famous cancan dancers can be found at the Moulin Rouge in Montmartre. Paris also has many smaller theaters and many movie houses. The Chaillot National Theater (next to the Eiffel Tower) also serves as a multicultural center. In the area of Beaubourg, the Centre Pompidou
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Paris
Once a castle to the kings of France, the Louvre is the most famous art museum in the world containing such works as the Mona Lisa and the Venus de Milo. (Bernard Boutrit; Woodfin Camp)
always has some interesting displays and performances. 18
Libraries and Museums
The Bibliothèque Nationale (National Library) was founded in the Middle Ages. In 1537, a copyright law was passed that requires every published work to be in the National Library. The library has many annexes and houses old manuscripts, engravings and photographs, maps, music, and printed books. Paris has a plethora of famous museums, but the following are
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some a first-time tourist should not miss. The Louvre is one of the most famous art museums in the world. Once the palace of the kings of France, the Louvre was updated in 1989 by the architect I.M. Pei (b. 1917) who designed a new glass pyramid entrance to the museum. The Louvre contains paintings, sculptures, and other objects of antiquity famous around the world. The Mona Lisa, the Winged Victory, the Venus de Milo, the paintings of David and Leonardo, Egyptian treasures and classical sculptures are all too numerous to mention. A two-hour tape tour is rec-
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Paris ommended for the casual visitor. The building itself is a work of art representing the history of France as many kings added to the original structure begun by Philippe Auguste in the twelfth century. The basement contains the oldest known foundations of the Louvre and the torture chambers of Philippe Auguste. The Musée d'Orsay, housed in a renovated railway station, now contains most of the important Impressionist paintings. Edouard Manet, Claude Monet, Edgar Degas, Jean Renoir, Paul Cézanne, and Vincent Van Gogh are all well represented, as well as post-Impressionist artists. The National Museum of Modern Art is housed on the fourth floor of the Pompidou Center in Beaubourg. The Musée Rodin is dedicated to the works of the famous sculptor, Auguste Rodin (1840–1917). Notre Dame Cathedral is located on the island Ile de la Cité. One of the most perfect examples of Gothic architecture, Notre Dame has thousands of sculptures and stained glass windows. Tours are also given. On a neighboring island in the Seine, the Ile Saint-Louis, is the smaller church, the SainteChapelle. The stained glass windows are among the finest in the world. Historical museums abound. Les Invalides houses the tomb of Napoleon and a military museum, while the Arc de Triomphe has a museum dedicated to Napoleon’s victories. The Eiffel Tower has a display of the construction of the Tower for the 1889 World’s Fair.
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Gobelins’ Tapestry Factory recounts the history of the famous tapestry maker from its beginnings in the thirteenth century. There are guided tours of the workshops, which still produce tapestries. The Hôtel de Cluny Museum is the remains of the old Roman baths and the medieval monastery. Wonderful artifacts, tapestries, and medieval art are on display. The Grévin Museum is a wax museum portraying scenes from history and interesting historical figures. Père Lachaise Cemetery may seem a bit morbid, but millions of visitors come to see the graves of Bizet, Molière, Colette, Gertrude Stein, Victor Hugo, Balzac, Chopin, and perhaps the most visited, the American Jim Morrison. So many people come to visit and decorate Morrison’s grave that there is usually security around it. 19
To u r i s m
The year 1999 saw France as the top destination for travelers around the world, with the overwhelming majority including Paris in their visit to France. Over 70 million tourists visited the City of Light last year, spending nearly $30 million (American dollars) in France. The best tours of Paris are by boat. One can get a one-hour cruise on the Seine in a sightseeing boat called a bateaumouche, which features the main monuments, bridges, and cathedrals (the best view ever of Notre Dame) and gives a history of the city. Bus tours are provided by various companies: Cityrama,
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Paris Vision, and Parisbus are a few of the large companies. The official tourist information center is at the Hôtel de Ville (town hall). However, there are tourist information centers at all train stations and airports. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Fashion shows begin
MARCH-APRIL Easter Monday Foire de Paris (Fair)
MAY May Day Celebration (1st) VE Day (8th) Ascension Day Pentecost
JUNE
The Pantheon includes the tombs of Victor Hugo and Voltaire. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
Air Show French Open Tour de France
JULY Bastille Day (14th) National Holiday
AUGUST Many museums, restaurants, and other facilities are closed for the traditional Parisian vacation month. Assumption (15th)
NOVEMBER All Souls' Day (1st) Armistice Day (11th) Beaujolais Nouveau (18th) Wine Festival
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Famous Citizens
Robert de Sorbon (1201–74), philosopher and theologian, founded the Sorbonne, which became the University of Paris.
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Nostradamus (b. Michel de Notredame, 1503–66), philosopher and astrologer. René Descartes (1596–1650), father of modern mathematics. Louis XIV, the “Sun King” (1638–1715), built the palace of Versailles. Molière (b. Jean-Baptiste Poquelin, 1622–1673), playwright. Napoleon Bonaparte (b. Napoleone Buonaparte, 1769–1821), Emperor of France from 1805 to 1809 and from 1810 to 1814.
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Paris Jean-François Champollion (1790– 1832), discovered the Rosetta Stone. Pierre Auguste Renoir (1841–1919), Claude Monet (1840–1926), Edouard Manet (1832–83)—all French painters of the Impressionist style. Victor Hugo (1802–85), one of the greatest and most prolific of all French writers, wrote Notre-Dame de Paris (Hunchback). Alfred Dreyfus (1859–1935), involved in exposing the French government’s policy of anti-Semitism, accused of treason, and exonerated in a famous court-martial.
Edith Piaf (1915–63), songstress nicknamed the “sparrow”. François Truffaut (1932–84), cinematographer who invented the nouvelle vague of the film industry. Jean-Paul Sartre (1905–80), father of the philosophical movement of existentialism. Simone de Beauvoir (1908–86), author of The Second Sex. Albert Camus (1913–60), philosopher and writer. Antoine de St. Exupéry (1900–44), World War II pilot, best known for his short novel The Little Prince.
Baron Georges-Eugène Haussmann (1809–91), created wide boulevards which mark modern Paris and improved sewer system.
Brigitte Bardot (b. Camille Javal, 1934 ), most famous French female movie star.
Alexandre Gustave Eiffel (1832–1923), engineer and one of the founders of aerodynamics, built the Eiffel Tower for the World’s Fair of 1889 and designed the locks for the Panama Canal.
22
Georges Bizet (1838–75), composer of the operas Carmen and The Pearl Fishers. General Charles de Gaulle (1890–1970), famous World War II general who helped Eisenhower with the World War II D-Day invasion of Normandy to defeat Hitler and Nazi Germany. Maurice Chevalier (1888–1972), French singer and movie star (Gigi).
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Gérard Dépardieu (b. 1948), French and American movie star.
For Further Study
Websites Air
France airline. [Online] Available www.airfrance.fr (accessed December 20, 1999). La Conciergerie. [Online] Available www.conciergerie.com (accessed December 20, 1999). Paris Pages. [Online] Available www.paris.org (accessed December 20, 1999). Paris Tourist Office. [Online] Available http:// www.paris-touristoffice.com (accessed December 20, 1999). RATP. [Online] Available www.ratp.fr (accessed December 20, 1999). Smartweb. [Online] Available http://smartweb.fr (accessed December 20, 1999). SNCF. [Online] Available www.sncf.fr (accessed December 20, 1999).
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Paris Government Offices
Books
American Embassy in Paris 2 Rue St. Florentin Paris, 75001 Tel: 01.43.12.22.22
Guide Michelin, Paris. John Murray Publishers, 1999. Insight Guide Paris. Maspeth, NY: Langenscheit Publishers, 1999. Jones, Colin. The Cambridge Illustrated History of France. London: Cambridge University Press, 1994. Paris. London: Dorling Kindersley, 1999. Safran, William. The French Polity. New York and London: Longman, 1985.
Tourist and Convention Bureaus France and Paris Tourism 444 Madison Ave. N.Y., N.Y. 10020 (212) 838-7800 676 N. Michigan Ave. #3360 Chicago, IL 60611 9494 Wilshire Blvd. Beverly Hills, CA 90212
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Videorecordings The
Louvre (narrated by Charles Monterey Home Video., n.d.
Boyer).
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Glossary ABOLITIONIST: Person or organization that opposes slavery. When slavery was legal, abolitionists fought to have laws created to make keeping slaves illegal. ADMINISTRATION: Government officials and the policies by which they govern. AIR POLLUTION: Harmful chemicals discharged into the air, making it unclean and sometimes unsafe. ALLIES: Groups or persons who are united in a common purpose. Typically used to describe nations that have joined together to fight a common enemy in war. In World War I, the term Allies described the nations that fought against Germany and its allies. In World War II, Allies described the United Kingdom, United States, the USSR and their allies, who fought against the Axis Powers of Germany, Italy, and Japan. AMALGAM: A mixture of different things. ANCHORAGE: Settling or staying in place by means of holding on to something. ANNEXATION: The act of adding on a smaller thing to a larger thing. ANNUAL MEAN TEMPERATURE: The temperature that falls at the middle of the range of high and low temperatures for the entire year. ANTI-SEMITISM: Fear or hatred of Jews. APARTHEID: The past governmental policy in the Republic of South Africa of separating the races in society. ARCHAEOLOGICAL REMAINS: Relics and artifacts left by past cultures. BOROUGH: District or large section of a city, especially New York, New York. BUDDHISM: A religious system common in India and eastern Asia. Founded by and based upon the teachings of Siddhartha Gautama, Buddhism asserts that suffering is an inescapable part of life. Deliverance can only be achieved through the practice of charity, temperance, justice, honesty, and truth. CABARET: A restaurant or nightclub with short musical performances with singing and dancing as entertainment. CADENCE: Any rhythmic flow of sound or measured movement to a rhythm or beat. CANTON: A territory or small division or state within a country. COMMUNISM: A form of government whose system requires common ownership of property for the use of all citizens. All profits are to be equally dis-
tributed and prices on goods and services are usually set by the state. Also, communism refers directly to the official doctrine of the former U.S.S.R. COSMOPOLITAN: Containing elements of all or many parts of the world. COUT D’ÉTAT OR COUP: A sudden, violent overthrow of a government or its leader. CULTURE: The ideas and typical habits of a group of people. DAILY CIRCULATION: Number of newspapers or other publications that are distributed each day. DIALECT: One of a number of regional or related modes of speech regarded as descending from a common origin. DIVERSITY: Variety; a mixture of different or dissimilar elements, items, or people. ENDEMIC: Anything that is peculiar to and characteristic of a locality or region. ENTREPRENEUR: Someone who starts and operates a small business. ETHNIC: Referring to a group of people with the same cultural heritage. FEDERAL: Pertaining to a union of states whose governments are subordinate to a central government. FEZ: A cone-shaped felt hat with no brim and a flat top, from which a long tassel hangs; the national headdress for men in Turkey. FUNICULAR: Hanging from or worked by pulling up and lowering of ropes or cables. GLOBAL ECONOMY: Relating to the economic situation (management of wealth and resources) of the whole world as a single community. GOLD RUSH: Describes people traveling in a hurry to a place where gold was discovered. GREENWICH MEAN TIME (GMT): Mean solar time of the meridian at Greenwich, England, used as the basis for standard time throughout most of the world. The world is divided into 24 time zones, and all are related to the prime, or Greenwich mean, zone. GROSS DOMESTIC PRODUCT (GDP): A measure of the market value of all goods and services produced within the boundaries of a nation, regardless of asset ownership. Unlike gross national product, GDP excludes receipts from that nation’s business operations in foreign countries. GROSS NATIONAL PRODUCT (GNP): A measure of the market value of goods and services produced by the labor and property of a nation. Includes receipts from that nation’s business operation in foreign countries
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GLOSSARY HERESY: An opinion believed to contradict a basic
NATIONALIST: Person or government policy that
law of a religion. INDIGENOUS: People, plants, and animals that lived in a place from ancient times. Also called native people, plants, and animals. INHABITED: Lived in. INQUISITION: A general tribunal, or court, established in the thirteenth century for the discovery and suppression of heresy and the punishment of those who were guilty of heresy (called heretics). ISLAM: The religious system of Mohammed, practiced by Muslims and based on a belief in Allah as the supreme being and Muhammad as his prophet. The spelling variations, Moslim and Mohammed, are also used. Islam also refers to those nations in which it is the primary religion. LABYRINTHINE: Curving in an intricate or confusing pattern; curvy, like a snake. MAGNATE: Important person, or person with special influence. MELANESIAN: The native or original inhabitants of islands in the Pacific Ocean south of the equator, including the Fiji Islands. METRO: Short form of metropolitan, usually used with a city name. For example, metro Detroit describes the city of Detroit and its surrounding area. METROPOLIS: Large city or center of population. METROPOLITAN: Term used to describe a city and its area of influence. For example, “metropolitan Detroit” refers to the city of Detroit and its surrounding area.
puts the needs and interests of the country first over the needs and interests of the other countries or international groups. PER CAPITA: Literally, per person; for each person counted. PHILANTHROPIST: Person who gives large sums of his or her own money to benefit community organizations or institutions. POLYNESIAN: The native or original inhabitants of islands in the Pacific Ocean, including Hawaii, Samoa, Tonga, Tahiti, and New Zealand. PRE-COLUMBIAN: Refers to the time in the history of North and South America before the arrival of Europeans (before 1492). Named for the first European to reach the Western hemisphere, Christopher Columbus. PROGRESSIVE: Person or government that is open to new ideas and willing to move forward or change habits or practices. PROTESTANT: A member or an adherent of one of those Christian bodies which descended from the Reformation of the sixteenth century. Originally applied to those who opposed or protested the Roman Catholic Church. ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH: The designation of the church of which the pope or Bishop of Rome is the head, and that holds him as the successor of St. Peter and heir of his spiritual authority, privileges, and gifts. RURAL: Describes landscape of the countryside, with large areas of open space and few roads and buildings covering the land. SOUTHEAST ASIA: The region in Asia that consists of Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, the Philippines, Thailand, and Vietnam. SUBURB: Community on the edge of a large city where people live. People who live in a suburb usually travel to the city to work. SULTAN: A king of a Muslim (Islamic) state. TREATY: A negotiated agreement between two governments. URBAN: City landscape, with streets and buildings covering most of the area. VISIONARY: Person who can imagine positive changes and can explain the possible results to others. XENOPHOBIA: Fear or intense dislike of people from other places. ZENITH: The high point.
METROPOLITAN STATISTICAL AREA (MSA): Official term used by government agencies to define the city and its surrounding communities. The MSA describes the area included when gathering and reporting statistics. MILITARY COUP: A sudden, violent overthrow of a government by military forces. MILLENNIUM: 1,000 years. Also used to refer to the one-thousandth anniversary of an event. MISSIONARIES: People who travel to, and often live in, another area for the purpose of teaching the inhabitants there their religious beliefs. MOBILITY: The freedom and ability to move from one area or region to another. MOSQUE: An Islam place of worship and the organization with which it is connected. MUSLIM: Name used to describe people who observe the religious rules of Islam.
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Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of
World Cities
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of
World Cities VOLUME
4
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania to Washington, D.C. Edited by Jill Copolla and Susan Bevan Gall
J U N I O R WO R L D M A R K E N C Y C L O P E D I A O F W O R L D C I T I E S
U•X•L Staff Allison McNeill, U•X•L Senior Editor Carol DeKane Nagel, U•X•L Managing Editor Thomas L. Romig, U•X•L Publisher Dorothy Maki, Manufacturing Manager Evi Seoud, Assistant Production Manager Rita Wimberley, Senior Buyer Pamela A.E. Galbreath, Art Director This publication is a creative work copyrighted by U•X•L and fully protected by all applicable copyright laws, as well as by misappropriation, trade secret, unfair competition, and other applicable laws. The authors and editors of this work have added value to the underlying factual material herein through one or more of the following: unique and original selection, coordination, expression, arrangement, and classification of the information. All rights to this publication will be vigorously defended. Copyright © 2000 U•X•L An imprint of the Gale Group All rights reserved including the right of reproduction in whole or in part in any form.
Printed in United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Cover photos (top to bottom): Paris, France: Louvre (EPD/Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp) Monrovia, Liberia: Redemption Day Celebration (EPD/Homer Sykes; Woodfin Camp) Tokyo, Japan: Kids with skateboards (EPD/Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp) Lima, Peru: Market (EPD/Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp) Washington, DC: Lincoln Memorial (EPD/Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp)
Susan Bevan Gall and Jill Marie Coppola, Editors Timothy L. Gall, Executive Editor Mary Francis Sugar, Eleftherios E. Netos, Jennifer Wallace, James C. Woodring, Associate Editors Bridgette M. Nadzam, Graphics and Page Layout Gregory M. Hurst, Editorial Assistant Magellan Geographix, Cartographers
Contributors Olufemi A. Akinola, Ph.D. W.E.B. DuBois Institute, Harvard University Cynthia Andrews. Researcher/Writer, Suttons Bay, Michigan Mike Cikraji. Researcher/Writer, Bay Village, Ohio Patricia Hale. Researcher/Writer, West Hartford, Connecticut Bruce Heilman. University of Dar es Salaam, Tanzania Jim Henry. Researcher/Writer, Chicago, Illinois William Hodgson. Researcher/Writer, Vancouver, British Columbia Dave Hribar. Researcher/Writer, Avon Lake, Ohio Ignacio Lobos. Journalist, Honolulu, Hawaii Deryck O. Lodrick, Ph.D. Visiting Scholar, Center for South Asian Studies, University of California, Berkeley Lupa Ramadhani. University of Dar es Salaam, Tanzania Gail Rosewater. Researcher/Writer, Cleveland, Ohio Carmen Urdaneta, M.A. Researcher/Writer, Boston, Massachusetts Jeffrey Vance. Researcher/Writer, Brighton, Massachusetts Rosalie Wieder. Researcher/Writer, Cleveland, Ohio Steven Wolinetz, Ph.D. Memorial University, St. John’s Newfoundland
CONTENTS C I T Y F I N D E R TA B L E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . viii R E A D E R ’S G U I D E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA ................................................ 1 P H O E N I X , A R I Z O N A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 P R A G U E , C Z E C H R E P U B L I C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 R I O D E J A N E I R O , B R A Z I L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 R O M E , I T A L Y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 S A N F R A N C I S C O , C A L I F O R N I A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 S E A T T L E , WA S H I N G T O N . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 S Y D N E Y, A U S T R A L I A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 TO K Y O , J A P A N . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 TO R O N T O , O N T A R I O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 VA N C O U V E R, B R I T I S H C O L U M B I A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 WA S H I N G T O N , D . C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 G L O S S A R Y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 I N D E X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
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C I T Y F I N D E R TA B L E Volume number appears in brackets []
Toronto, Ontario .......................[4]151 Vancouver, British Columbia......[4]169
Africa
Mexico
Cairo, Egypt .............................[1]115 Johannesburg, South Africa ......[2]123 Lagos, Nigeria ...........................[2]139 Monrovia, Liberia........................[3]69 Nairobi, Kenya ..........................[3]115
Mexico City, Mexico....................[3]19
United States Atlanta, Georgia ...........................[1]1 Boston, Massachusetts .................[1]65 Chicago, Illinois ........................[1]145 Cleveland, Ohio ........................[1]161 Dallas, Texas .............................[1]177 Denver, Colorado.......................[1]191 Detroit, Michigan ..........................[2]1 Honolulu, Hawaii ........................[2]39 Houston, Texas ............................[2]57 Indianapolis, Indiana ..................[2]77 Los Angeles, California ..............[2]189 Miami, Florida.............................[3]37 Minneapolis, Minnesota .............[3]53 Nashville, Tennessee ..................[3]137 New Orleans, Louisiana.............[3]153 New York, New York ................[3]173 Phoenix, Arizona .........................[4]19 Philadelphia, Pennsylvania .............[4]1 San Francisco, California .............[4]85 Seattle, Washington....................[4]101 Washington, D.C..........................[4]18
Asia Bangkok, Thailand ......................[1]17 Beijing, China ..............................[1]33 Hong Kong, China.......................[2]21 Istanbul, Turkey ..........................[2]93 Jerusalem, Israel.........................[2]107 Manila, Philippines .......................[3]1 Mumbai (Bombay), India.............[3]99 Sydney, Australia .......................[4]117 Tokyo, Japan ............................[4]133
Europe Berlin, Germany...........................[1]49 Brussels, Belgium ........................[1]83 Istanbul, Turkey...........................[2]93 London, United Kingdom .........[2]169 Madrid, Spain ...........................[2]205 Paris, France ..............................[3]195 Prague, Czech Republic ...............[4]35 Rome, Italy ..................................[4]63
South America Buenos Aires, Argentina...............[1]97 Caracas, Venezuela ...................[1]131 Lima, Peru ................................[2]155 Rio de Janeiro, Brazil ..................[4]49
North America Canada Montréal, Québec .......................[3]83
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R E A D E R ’S G U I D E this Reader’s Guide, all of whom offered substantive insights that were instrumental to the creation of this work. The editors are extremely grateful for the time and effort these distinguished reviewers devoted to improving the quality of this work. Sixteen researchers, many of whom live in the city they profiled, are listed on the staff page. Their well-researched profiles give users of Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities an opportunity to compare the history and contemporary life in 50 of the world’s greatest cities—from the ancient cities of Cairo, Egypt and Istanbul, Turkey, to the fast-growing modern metropolitan communities of Lagos, Nigeria; Sydney, Australia; and Seattle, Washington.
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities presents profiles of 50 major cities from around the world, arranged alphabetically in four volumes. Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities is a new reference work organized under the Worldmark design. The Worldmark design assembles facts and data about each city in a common structure. Every profile contains a map, showing the city and its location. The challenging task of selecting the cities to be profiled in this first edition of Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities was accomplished with input from librarian advisors. From a list of over 100 candidate cities, 50 were selected to represent the continents and cultures of the world, with an emphasis on cities of the United States. Twenty-five cities from North America (including 21 U.S. cities) are profiled, 9 cities from Asia, 7 cities from Europe, 5 cities from Africa, and 4 from South America fill the four volumes. Profiles present text and graphical elements, including photographs, with the needs and interests of student researchers in mind. Recognition must be given to the many tourist bureaus, convention centers, city government press offices, and graphic agencies that contributed the data and photographs that comprise this encyclopedia. This edition also benefits from the work of the reviewers listed at the end of
Sources Due to the broad scope of this encyclopedia many sources were consulted in compiling the information and statistics presented in these volumes. Of primary importance were the official web sites posted by many of the cities’ government offices and tourist/convention bureaus on the World Wide Web. Also instrumental in the development of this publication was the web site of the U.S. Bureau of the Census, available at http://www.census.gov/. Finally, many fact sheets, booklets, and statistical abstracts were used to update
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READER’S GUIDE data not collected by federal or city governments. Profile Features The structure of the Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities entries—22 numbered headings—allows students to compare two or more cities in a variety of ways. Each city profile begins with the city name, state or province (where applicable), country, and continent. A city fact box provides information including dates founded and incorporated, city location, official city motto and flower, time zone, ethnic composition, city elevation, latitude and longitude, coastline (where applicable), climate information, annual mean temperature, seasonal average snowfall (where applicable), average annual precipitation, form of government, system of weights and measures used, monetary units, telephone area codes, and city postal codes. Where available, a picture of both the city seal and the city flag, with description, appear. With regard to the time zone, the standard time is given by time zone in relation to Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). The world is divided into 24 time zones, each one hour apart. The Greenwich meridian, which is 0 degrees, passes through Greenwich, England, a suburb of London. Greenwich is at the center of the initial time zone, known as Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). All times given are converted from noon in this zone. The time reported for the city is the official time zone. Also provided in each article is a Population Profile box comparing the city proper with its greater metropolitan
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area, including suburbs (where available), and lists facts such as population, racial breakdown, and nicknames. Profiles also include a City Fact Comparison box, comparing daily costs of visiting the city with costs for visiting representative cities elsewhere in the world (Cairo, Egypt; Rome, Italy; and Beijing, China). City maps, locator maps, and photos complement the entries. The body of each city’s profile is arranged in 22 numbered headings as follows: 1
INTRODUCTION. The city’s location
is described. City features are outlined, sometimes citing key facts from city history and major attractions. 2
GETTING THERE. Information is pro-
vided on major highways offering access into and around the city, as well as information on bus and railroad service, airports, and shipping. 3
GETTING AROUND. Information is
outlined on means of transportation within a city, including bus and commuter rail service; some entries include transportation modes that will be less familiar to many student researchers, such as the three-wheeled tuk-tuk of Bangkok, Thailand. Both commuter and sightseeing transportation methods are included. 4
PEOPLE. A population count is pro-
vided for the city proper and its metropolitan area, along with an ethnic/racial breakdown of the populace. For many cities, population growth patterns, languages, and religions are also discussed 5 NEIGHBORHOODS. Location, characteristics, and attractions of city historic
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
READER’S GUIDE and ethnic neighborhoods, and business and cultural districts are described. 6 HISTORY. City history is detailed from its founding to the present. 7
GOVERNMENT. Style of government
is described, and elected offices are listed, along with a description of each office and length of an elected term. 8 PUBLIC SAFETY. Police, fire, and ambulatory services are outlined, as well as any special city safety projects. Crime rate statistics are also listed. 9 ECONOMY. This section presents the key elements of the economy. Major industries and employment figures are also summarized.
Topography, climate, and flora and fauna are described, as well as any environmental concerns, programs, or clean-up efforts. 10
ENVIRONMENT.
11 SHOPPING. Popular shopping districts and venues are described, as well as any specialty items for which the city is renowned. 12 EDUCATION. Information about public education and key universities and technical institutes is detailed. 13 HEALTH CARE. Hospitals and other health services are described. Alternative or non-Western health care practices are described in some city profiles. 14
MEDIA. City newspapers, magazines,
television, and radio stations are listed. Where applicable, government influence on media is discussed.
15 SPORTS. Professional and amateur sports—from auto racing and rodeo to cricket and baseball—sports venues, and championships held are listed. Annual sporting events, major international tournaments, and popular recreational sports are also described. 16 PARKS AND RECREATION. Popular recreational activities and city pastimes, from strolling in a city park to playing polo, and the venues where they can be enjoyed, are detailed. 17 PERFORMING ARTS. Performing arts offered in the city are described, as well as the theaters and performing arts halls where they are offered. Notable annual events are listed. 18 LIBRARIES AND MUSEUMS. Notable libraries and descriptions of their holdings are described. Major museums, with information about their collections, are listed. 19
TOURISM. The importance of tourism
to the city is summarized, along with factors affecting the tourism industry. Key tourist attractions are listed. 20
HOLIDAYS AND FESTIVALS. Annu-
ally celebrated holidays and events are listed. 21
F A M O U S C I T I Z E N S . Famous peo-
ple who were born or lived in the city are listed, along with birth and death dates and short biographical descriptions. Bibliographic listings are provided at the end of each profile as a guide for accessing further information. Included are Web sites, 22
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FOR
FURTHER
STUDY.
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READER’S GUIDE government offices, tourist and convention bureaus, major city publications, and books about the city and its history. Because some terms used in this encyclopedia will be new to students, each volume includes a glossary. A keyword index to all four volumes appears in Volume 4. Acknowledgments The editors are indebted to the following reviewers, without whom Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities would not have been possible. The individuals listed below were consulted on the content and structure of this encyclopedia. Their insights, opinions, and suggestions led to many enhancements and improvements in the presentation of the material. Ken Cornwell, Library Media Specialist, Northeast High School, Lincoln, Nebraska
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Cindy Doll, Librarian, Columbus Metropolitan Library, Columbus, Ohio Marilyn Eanes, School Library Media Specialist, Hopewell Middle School, Round Rock, Texas Jane Thomas, Library Manager, McNeil High School, Austin, Texas Glenda Willnerd, School Librarian, Lincoln High School, Lincoln, Nebraska Comments and Suggestions We welcome your comments on the Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities, as well as your suggestions for cities to be included in future editions. Please write: Editors, Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities, U•X•L, 27500 Drake Road, Farmington Hills, Michigan 48331– 3535; call toll-free: 1-800-877-4253; or send e-mail via www.galegroup.com.
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Philadelphia Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States of America, North America Founded: 1682; Incorporated: 1701 Location: Eastern Pennsylvania, between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers Flag: Outer vertical stripes of blue, with seal centered on center yellow stripe. Time Zone: 7 AM Eastern Standard Time (EST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: White, 57.2%; Black, 39.9%; Native American, 0.2%; and Asian/Pacific Islander, 2.7% Elevation: 12 m (40 ft) Latitude and Longitude: 39º95'N, 75º16'W Climate: Continental climate moderated by the Appalachian mountains and the Atlantic Ocean; hot, humid summers Annual Mean Temperature: 12.5 ºC (54.6ºF); January 0.6ºC (33.1ºF); August 23.7ºC (74.7ºF) Seasonal Average Snowfall: 50.8 cm (20 in) Average Annual Precipitation (rainfall and melted snow): 105.2 cm (41.4 in) Government: Mayor-council Weights and Measures: Standard U.S. Monetary Units: Standard U.S. Telephone Area Codes: 215 Postal Codes: 19101–60
1
Introduction
Located in southeastern Pennsylvania, at the confluence of the Schuylkill and Delaware rivers, Philadelphia is the state’s largest city and the fifth largest in the United States. Home of the Declaration of Independence and the Liberty Bell—and the first capital of the United States—Philadelphia has one of the nation’s greatest concentrations of historic sites, which play a major role in attracting some three million visitors to the city every year. Although it has ceded its one-time position as manufacturing capital of the nation, Philadelphia today is home to a vigorous
service-oriented economy as well as the number one freshwater port in the United States. Its central location in relation to the cities of the Eastern Seaboard, and the eastern United States as a whole, combined with its population, size, and cultural and recreational resources continue to make Philadelphia one of the nation’s major cities. 2
Getting There
Philadelphia is located in southeastern Pennsylvania, where the Schuylkill and Delaware rivers meet. The city’s fairly flat terrain resembles that of surrounding areas in New Jersey
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Philadelphia
Philadelphia Population Profile
west of the city, connecting I-76 and I276 to the north with I-95 to the south. Bus and Railroad Service
City Proper Population: 1,524,249 Area: 349.6 sq km (135 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 57.2% white; 39.9% black; 0.2% Native American; and 2.7% Asian Nicknames: City of Brotherly Love
Metropolitan Area Population: 4,398,000 Description: Philadelphia and surrounding communities Area: 9,984.5 sq km ( 3,855 sq mi) World population rank1: 52 Percentage of national population2: 1.6% Average yearly growth rate: 0.4% Ethnic composition: 76.9% white; 20% black; 2.9% Asian/Pacific Islander ——— 1. The Philadelphia metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the United States’ total population living in the Philadelphia metropolitan area.
Philadelphia is one of the main stops on the Amtrak route that traverses the Boston-Washington corridor in the northeast of the country. Trains arrive at and depart from Penn Station. Intercity bus service is available on Greyhound and Peter Pan/Trailways. Intercity service to nearby destinations is provided by New Jersey Transit. Airports Philadelphia International Airport is a hub for Midway Airlines and US Airways. It also services the other major U.S. carriers, including American, Continental, Delta, Northwest, TWA, and United. Shipping
and Delaware rather than the hilly land characteristic of much of Pennsylvania’s interior. Highways The major interstate access to Philadelphia is via I-95, running from Boston and points north all the way down to Florida. Intersecting with I-95 is I-76 (the Schuylkill Expressway), which extends westward through southern Pennsylvania. Other major routes in the area are I-276 (the Pennsylvania Turnpike), and I-676 (the Vine Street Expressway), which links I-76 to Camden, New Jersey. I-476 (the “Blue Route”) runs along the suburbs to the
2
Penn’s Landing is the largest freshwater port in the United States. Together with facilities in southern New Jersey and Delaware, it constitutes the Ports of Philadelphia, operated by the Philadelphia Regional Port Authority. The jointly operated port complex handles the East Coast’s largest volume of international shipping freight. 3
Getting Around
The streets of Philadelphia are laid out in a grid pattern, with numbered streets running north-south. Many of the east-west streets were named—by founding father William Penn (1644– 1718)—for local plants and trees,
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Philadelphia
including Cherry, Chestnut, Walnut, Locust, Spruce, and Pine. The Delaware River to the east and the Schuylkill River to the west meet south of the city. Bus and Commuter Rail Service by
Public transportation is operated the Southeastern Pennsylvania
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Transportation Authority (SEPTA) and includes buses, trolleys, subways, and commuter trains. Bus lines include the PHLASH Bus service, which makes a loop through many of the downtown’s major commercial and cultural sites, the Ben FrankLine, the Mid-City Loop, and the Chestnut Street Transitway. The commuter rail line, PATCO, connects
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Philadelphia the city with Camden, New Jersey, via the Ben Franklin Bridge. Underground Rapid Transit lines intersect underneath City Hall. Sightseeing Bus tours of Philadelphia’s historic sights are offered by Gray Line Tours and American Trolley Tours, whose “trolleys” are actually double-decker buses. Candlelight walking tours of historic Philadelphia are available also, as well as tours by horse and carriage. Boat tours that offer views of the city’s skyline from the harbor are offered on the Spirit of Philadelphia and the Liberty Belle II. 4
People
In 1990, the population of Philadelphia was 1,586,000, of which 39.9 percent were black, 2.7 percent Asian, and 0.2 percent Native American. Hispanics (both white and black) accounted for 5.6 percent of the population. The population estimate for 1994 was 1,524,249. The population of the Philadelphia Primary Metropolitan Statistical Area was reported as 4,922,257 in 1990 and estimated at 4,940,653 as of 1997. The region’s racial composition was listed by the U.S. Census Bureau in 1996 as 76.9 percent white; 20 percent black; and 2.9 percent Asian/Pacific Islander. The percentage of residents of Hispanic origin (an ethnic rather than a racial designation) was 4.3 percent.
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Neighborhoods
The historic central city is known as Center City. At its center lies Penn Square, the site of Philadelphia’s city hall. The surrounding area can be divided into four quadrants, each arranged around a central square (or, in the case of Logan Circle, the site of a former square). In the northwest quadrant, the gracious, tree-lined Benjamin Franklin Parkway passes through Logan Circle, in a district that includes the Franklin Institute Science Museum and the Academy of Natural Sciences. South of this section lies Rittenhouse Square, an urban park surrounded by buildings that reflect the district’s nineteenthcentury history as an exclusive neighborhood that was home to some of the city’s wealthiest citizens. In the southeast quadrant is Washington Square, where the city’s historic colonial district (also known as Old City) begins and stretches eastward to the Delaware River. This area includes Independence National Historic Park. Colonial architecture is also on display to the south, in the area known as Society Hill, a fashionable neighborhood of restored Federal, Georgian, and colonial homes. Further south is Queen Village, an area originally settled by Swedes that boasts the oldest church in the state of Pennsylvania. South Street, which lies between Society Hill and Queen Village, became a counterculture enclave in the 1960s and is still a trendy and sophisticated venue filled with bookstores, cafes, natural food stores, restaurants, and other businesses.
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Philadelphia
City Fact Comparison Philadelphia (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
4,398,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1682
753 BC
723 BC
$172
$129
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy) Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner) Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.) Total daily costs
$118
$193
$44
$56
$59
$62
$2
$14
$15
$16
$164
$173
$246
$207
2
13
20
11
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
The Philadelphia Akhbar El Yom/ Inquirer Al Akhbar 428,895
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1829
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
South of Center City is South Philadelphia, the oldest section of Philadelphia. Today it is a colorful and ethnically diverse neighborhood with a strong Italian influence. West of the Schuylkill River lies University City, home of the University of Pennsylvania (“Penn”), which moved to this location in the 1870s, and Drexel University. In recent years, the university has helped gentrify the area by supporting the establishment of bookstores and other businesses. Northwest of Center City lie the residential communities of Chestnut Hill, Mount Airy, and Manayunk; the
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
latter has become a fashionable neighborhood graced by a lively assortment of galleries, restaurants, boutiques, and cafes. Chestnut Hill, originally a planned community designed by British architects in the mid-nineteenth century, has been designated a National Historic District thanks to its distinctive buildings. Other municipalities in the metropolitan Philadelphia area include Upper Darby, Levittown, Doylestown, and New Hope (all in Pennsylvania), as well as Haddonfield, Moorestown, and Merchantsville in New Jersey. Also geographically associated with
5
Philadelphia
Philadelphia skyline. (Jim McWilliams; Philadelphia Convention & Visitors Bureau)
Philadelphia are a series of Pennsylvania communities known as the Main Line, including Merion, Wayne, Ardmore, Villanova, Haverford, and Bryn Mawr. 6
History
The Philadelphia region was first settled by Swedes in the first half of the seventeenth century. It was not until 1682 that the Englishman William Penn, having received a land grant from King Charles II, founded his settlement between the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers, north of the existing Swedish settlement. Penn planned a
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town with broad avenues and public squares. Settlers were attracted by the economic opportunities available in the new land, as well as by the promise of religious freedom guaranteed by Penn, a Quaker who had rejected the dictates of England’s established Anglican Church. By the eighteenth century, thanks to its fine port and good agricultural land, Philadelphia had become the foremost city in the 13 British colonies. Its considerable wealth, reflected in both its architecture and in the interior decor of its houses, also supported an impressive infrastructure and network of pub-
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Philadelphia lic services and cultural institutions. The first hospital in the future United States was opened in Philadelphia in 1755 (a project in which the city’s most famous son, Benjamin Franklin, participated). Franklin was also a driving force behind the founding of the University of Pennsylvania, the Free Library of Philadelphia, and the American Philosophical Society. Although the Philadelphians were more politically moderate than their neighbors in New England, they participated actively in the debate that preceded the adoption of the Declaration of Independence (which occurred in the city’s own Independence Hall, then known as the State House) and were heavily involved in the Revolutionary War (1775–1783), during which their city was occupied by British troops under General Howe between 1777 and 1778 before Howe’s army moved on to New York. The members of the Continental Congress fled to Lancaster, Pennsylvania, taking the Liberty Bell with them. After the war, Philadelphia was the site of the Constitutional Convention, at which the U.S. Constitution was drafted in 1787, and the city served as the capital of the new country in the 1790s before the completion of Washington, D.C. The nineteenth century brought continued prosperity and cultural advancement to the city. In 1805 the first permanent bridge over the Schuylkill River connected Philadelphia with the fertile farmland of the interior. In the 1820s and 1830s, seaport and rail
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
The Declaration of Independence was signed in Independence Hall, then known as the State House. (Marcia Conrad; Philadelphia Convention & Visitors Bureau)
access made the Philadelphia the manufacturing capital of the United States, as well as one of its premier financial centers. Cultural progress continued also with the establishment of public education and the creation of such institutions as the Walnut Street Theater. Although the national capital had moved to Washington, Philadelphia remained the national center for the minting of money, shipbuilding, and weapons production. As an enlightened city, Philadelphia was a hotbed of antislavery senti-
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Philadelphia ment, although many of the city’s elite, dependent on Southern trade, opposed the war for economic reasons. War brought its own economic compensation as Philadelphia became a center for military supplies and transport equipment. However, nothing could compensate for the loss of thousands of Philadelphia’s native sons in the Civil War Battle of Gettysburg (Pennsylvania) in 1863. When Abraham Lincoln was assassinated in 1865, his body lay in state in Independence Hall before traveling to its final resting place in Illinois. Immigration to Philadelphia, already heavy before the Civil War (1861–65), continued in the last decades of the century. New arrivals from Italy and Eastern Europe joined the large number of Irish immigrants who had arrived earlier and helped maintain Philadelphia’s position as the nation’s manufacturing capital, with a varied manufacturing base that ranged from sugar refining to hat manufacturing. In 1876 Philadelphia hosted the first World’s Fair held in the United States: the Centennial Exhibition in Fairmount Park, which included a demonstration of the telephone. Philadelphia went on to become a pioneer in the establishment of modern utilities, claiming the first residential and office electric lighting and the first telephone exchange, both in place by 1878. As the new century arrived, Philadelphians were prospering, with the greatest home ownership rate of any city in the world. During World War I
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(1914–18), the city boasted the largest shipbuilding plant in existence at the time. The city’s population continued to grow—from one million to two million between 1900 and 1930, an increase that included a large number of African Americans. However, the Great Depression of the 1930s signaled the end of Philadelphia’s predominance as a manufacturing center, even though the city’s economy rebounded with the advent of World War II (1939–45). In the post-war years, Philadelphia’s leaders have slowed migration to the surrounding suburbs with an ambitious program of urban renewal that restored Center City, preserving Philadelphia’s historic heritage while allowing for development that would draw businesses to the city. Like other urban centers in the United States, Philadelphia has seen the growth of a serviceoriented economy replace its former manufacturing base; today, manufacturing in this former industrial capital employs only about ten percent of the work force. As the twenty-first century began, the city continued to combine historic preservation with new development as the National Park Service worked on plans to transform Independence Mall, and a new National Constitution Center entered the planning stages as well. 7
Government
Both the city and the county of Philadelphia are administered by the same mayor-council government, established under a 1951 charter that
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Philadelphia served as a national model for big-city government, eliminating the administrative role of council and strengthening the powers of the mayor. The mayor and the 17 council members are elected to four-year terms, with ten council members elected by district and seven elected at large. The mayor may not serve more than two consecutive terms, although there are no limits on the number of non-consecutive mayoral terms. 8
Public Safety
Philadelphia is considered one of the nation’s safest large metropolitan areas. In 1995, the city’s incidence of reported violent crimes per 100,000 population was 1,436, including 28 murders, 51 rapes, and 889 robberies. The incidence of property crimes was 5,642 and included 1,057 burglaries and 1,556 motor vehicle thefts. 9
Economy
Like other cities in the Northeast, Philadelphia—once the manufacturing capital of the nation—has seen a decline in its traditional industrial base since World War II, as heavy industry moved to areas in the South and West. Until the 1980s, the city’s port and petroleum-refining plants contributed substantially to the economy, but since that time service industries have replaced manufacturing as the dominant economic sector. Manufacturing, which used to account for 50 percent of the city’s employment, now accounts for only about ten percent.
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Philadelphia’s City Hall at night. (R. Andrew Lepley; Philadelphia Convention & Visitors Bureau)
Today’s leading economic sectors include advertising, financial services, law, and book publishing. The health care field is also a major income producer, with some 20 percent of the work force employed in health care ser-
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Philadelphia vices or the city’s growing biomedical and pharmaceutical industries. Philadelphia has also made a concerted effort to capitalize on its historic attractions by promoting tourism, most notably through the construction of a new $525 million convention center, completed in 1993, and developing its waterfront areas. Another target of the city’s economic planning has been the promotion of Philadelphia as a venue for corporate headquarters, and new buildings as well as entire office parks have multiplied rapidly along Route 202 just west of the city. Major corporations headquartered in the Philadelphia area today include SmithKline Beecham, Aramark, Advanta, and CIGNA. 10
Environment
The physical features of the Philadelphia region have determined many aspects of its history, from the fertile river-wash soil that drew its early settlers to begin farming the area to its ports, which guaranteed an abundant supply of water, encouraged the growth of shipbuilding, and have made the city a major transport and shipping center throughout its history. The Fairmount Waterworks, constructed in 1840 and still standing in Fairmount Park, was a state-of-the-art project that pumped water from the Schuylkill River into the community for residential and commercial use.
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Shopping
Philadelphia offers both traditional retail outlets in its historic neighborhoods and abundant mall and outlet shopping. For sheer size, the dominant shopping venue is the King of Prussia Court and Plaza north of the city, which is America’s second-largest shopping mall, superseded only by the Mall of America in Minnesota. The King of Prussia facility, which boasts 450 stores and 51 hectares (126 acres) of parking, offers major stores such as Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, and Bloomingdale’s, and specialty retailers including Tiffany, Williams-Sonoma, and Hermes. The Franklin Mills outlet mall northeast of Center City is a singlestory mall that attracts millions of shoppers annually with over 200 discount and outlet stores, including outlets for Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom, and Burlington Coat Factory, as well as a 14-screen multiplex cinema. Popular traditional urban shopping venues include Liberty Place, a downtown skyscraper that contains over 70 stores; South Street, which has evolved from a 1960s hippie district into a trendy upscale commercial and entertainment center; University City, the area surrounding the University of Pennsylvania, west of the Schuylkill river, which is home to a variety of boutiques and specialty shops; and the community of Manayunk northwest of Center City. A new shopping center near Philadelphia International Airport also draws large numbers of shoppers.
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Philadelphia 12
Education
Philadelphia, home of the first public school in the United States (opened in 1698), was also a pioneer in the education of gifted children, establishing special admission schools to meet the needs of students with special abilities in a variety of areas. Today Philadelphia has the nation’s fifth-largest public school system, enrolling almost 220,000 students at all levels, from preschool through twelfth grade. In the fall of 1996, Philadelphia’s public school enrollment was 63.8 percent black, 19.8 percent white, 11.6 percent Hispanic, and 4.7 percent Asian/Pacific. The school system employed 11,144 classroom teachers and 23,216 staff personnel.
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Health Care
There are more than 100 hospitals in the Philadelphia metropolitan area and six medical schools, as well as schools of nursing, dentistry, and pharmacology. There are major teaching hospitals affiliated with both the University of Pennsylvania and Temple University. Pennsylvania Hospital, part of the University of Pennsylvania Health System, is the oldest hospital in the United States, established in 1751 by Dr. Thomas Bond (1712–84) and Benjamin Franklin (1706–90). This 505-bed facility was also home to the country’s first surgical amphitheater and was the first hospital in the country to treat mental illness.
The city of Philadelphia has about 20 post-secondary institutions, and its metropolitan area is home to nearly 90. The University of Pennsylvania, a private Ivy League college located in downtown Philadelphia, is over 250 years old. It was home to the nation’s first medical school (1765), law school (1790), and business school (1881) and pioneered the integration of a classical education with modern fields of study. Situated west of the Schuylkill River since the 1870s, the university enrolls over 20,000 students in four undergraduate and 12 graduate schools. Located nearby is Drexel University.
Temple University Hospital, affiliated with the Temple University Medical School, is a 514-bed facility that provided care to 20,000 patients and 150,000 outpatients in 1998. Its emergency department, a certified Level I regional trauma center, treats more than 37,000 patients a year. Community hospitals that belong to the Temple University Health System include Episcopal Hospital, Jeanes Hospital, Lower Bucks Hospital, Neumann Medical Center, and Northeastern Hospital. Also part of Temple’s hospital system is Temple University Children’s Medical Center.
Philadelphia is also home to the Curtis Institute, one of the nation’s top music schools.
Philadelphia is also home to Children’s Hospital of Philadelphia and Wills Eye Hospital, both considered
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Philadelphia among the best in the country in their respective specialties. 14
Media
Philadelphia’s major daily newspapers (with 1998 circulation figures) are the Philadelphia Inquirer, published seven mornings a week (weekdays, 428,895; Sunday, 880,918), and the Philadelphia Daily News, published Monday through Saturday evening (weekday circulation 175,448). (Both papers are now owned by the same company.) The Inquirer is better known for its national coverage, while the Daily News has more local news. City Paper and Philadelphia Weekly are free alternative weeklies with articles on local issues and entertainment listings. Monthly magazines include Philadelphia Magazine and Where Philadelphia Magazine. All major television networks have affiliates in Philadelphia, and the metropolitan region is home to more than 30 AM and FM radio stations providing news, music, and local features. The acclaimed interview program “Fresh Air,” hosted by Terry Gross, originates from WHYY, Philadelphia’s National Public Radio (NPR) affiliate, and is syndicated on NPR stations throughout the country. 15
Sports
Philadelphia—where the world’s first baseball game was played in 1860—fields teams in all major-league sports. The Philadelphia Phillies, who won the National League champion-
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ship in 1993 and advanced to the playoffs two years later, play at Veterans Stadium, which is also the home of the NFL’s Philadelphia Eagles. The Philadelphia 76ers of the National Basketball Association compete in the modern, $230 million First Union Center, as do the Philadelphia Flyers of the National Hockey League. As an area with one of the nation’s heaviest concentration of colleges, Greater Philadelphia has an active collegiate sports scene, many of whose games take place at Franklin Field and the Palestra in West Philadelphia. Every April, Franklin Field is the site of the Penn Relays, an intercollegiate and amateur track event. Also popular are regattas on the Schuylkill River. 16
Parks and Recreation
Fairmount Park, the largest landscaped park in the country, extends over 3,602 hectares (8,900 acres) northwest of Center City. In addition to 161 kilometers (100 miles) of hiking, bicycling, and bridle trails, the park also encompasses historic and cultural attractions, including the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the Philadelphia Zoo (the nation’s oldest), the historic Fairmount Waterworks, nearly 30 colonial mansions open to visitors, Japanese gardens and a teahouse, outdoor sculpture, and the Philadelphia Orchestra’s summer home, the Mann Music Center. Visitors to the park can use hike-and-bike trails; rent rowboats and canoes for use on the Schuylkill River, which runs
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Philadelphia through the park, dividing it into eastern and western sections; visit the waterworks, built in 1840; tour the historic houses, which include Lemon Hill, Mt. Pleasant, Laurel Hill, Strawberry Mansion, and Chamounix Mansion; take their children to Smith Playground; take in horticultural exhibits; or visit the 40-hectare (99-acre) Laurel Hill Cemetery. The metropolitan area has over 100 golf courses, five of which are 18-hole municipal courses operated by the city of Philadelphia. Tennis courts can be found in Fairmount Park, on the University of Pennsylvania campus, and at other locations. Philadelphia has 86 municipal swimming pools, and the Blue Cross River Rink at Penn’s Landing is a popular spot for ice skating. 17
Performing Arts
Anchored by its symphony orchestra and the renowned Curtis Institute, Philadelphia has a top-notch classical music scene. The Philadelphia Orchestra, which grew to greatness under maestros including Leopold Stokowski and Eugene Ormandy, remains one of the best in the world under music director, Wolfgang Sawallisch. The orchestra presents a regular season of concerts at the Academy of Music between September and May and also plays a six-week summer season at the Mann Music Center amphitheatre in Fairmount Park. The talented faculty and student of the Curtis Institute can be heard in regular solo recitals and chamber music concerts in the school’s concert hall in
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Visitors to Independence National Historic Park are transported back to the colonial period by tour guides in historic costume. (Nick Kelsh; Philadelphia Convention & Visitors Bureau)
Rittenhouse Square. The Philadelphia Chamber Music Society presents concerts featuring well-known soloists and ensembles performing both classical and popular music. In addition, the city has its own chamber orchestra, the Concerto Soloists Chamber Orchestra, as well as a group that specializes in contemporary music, the Relache Ensemble. The Opera Company of Philadelphia presents four fully staged opera productions annually at the Academy of Music. Philadelphia presents varied opportunities for theater goers. In addition to traveling productions of Broadway plays, local audiences can attend productions by the resident company at
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Philadelphia the Walnut Street Theatre, the Philadelphia Theater Company, the Arden Theatre Company, and the American Music Theater Festival, which specializes in musical theater. The Wilma Theater is a respected troupe dedicated to presenting contemporary works, which are also the focus at the Philadelphia Festival Theatre for New Plays and the InterAct Theatre Company. The acclaimed Pennsylvania Ballet performs at the Academy of Music, the Annenberg Center, and the Merriam Theater, in a season that includes an annual performance of The Nutcracker in the original version choreographed by Balanchine. A variety of local groups make up the Philadelphia Dance Alliance. Movement Theatre International performances showcase dance and movement of all kinds, including mime and even circus acts. 18
Libraries and Museums
The Free Library of Philadelphia operates a central library downtown and 49 neighborhood branches. With a total of 7,983,088 items, the library has a circulation of over six million. Its special collections cover subject areas including fine prints and printmaking, automobiles, Judaica, choral music, jazz, Americana, British writer Beatrix Potter (1866–1943), and British illustrator Arthur Rackham (1867–1939). It also has an exceptional children’s library. The Philadelphia Museum of Art is the nation’s third-largest art museum
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and one of its best. Its collection ranges from the middle ages to the present and features special attractions, including a medieval courtyard and fountain, a Gothic chapel, and a Hindu temple. Both older and contemporary European masters are represented, as well as a broad array of American artworks, including the decorative arts, and a variety of special exhibits. The Museum of American Art, housed in a distinguished Victorian building designed by Frank Furness and George Hewitt and extensively refurbished for the 1976 American bicentennial and further renovated in 1994, houses an outstanding collection of works by American artists from colonial times to the present. The Philadelphia Art Alliance promotes all the fine arts, displaying paintings, sculptures, and photography and also serving as a venue for readings, concerts, and dramatic performances. With its rich history dating back to colonial times, Philadelphia is home to a variety of historic sites and historical museums. The Atwater-Kent Museum illuminates the city’s history through exhibits detailing changing urban life over the past three hundred years. The Civil War Library and Museum houses a collection of research materials and artifacts from the war years, including a weapons display. Independence Seaport Museum, located at Penn’s Landing, is devoted to the maritime history of the Delaware River and Chesapeake Bay. Independence Hall (where the Declaration of Independence was drafted), together with the nearby pavilion that houses the Liberty Bell, is Philadelphia’s
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Philadelphia
The Philadelphia Museum of Art is the third largest museum of its type in the world. (Philadelphia Convention & Visitors Bureau)
most famous historic site. Nearby are the quarters occupied by the U.S. Congress and the Supreme Court in the 1790s when Philadelphia served as the nation’s capital. Another major historic attraction in Philadelphia is Gloria Dei Church. Built in 1700 by early Swedish colonists in the region, it is the oldest church in Pennsylvania. The former home of poet and short-story writer Edgar Allan Poe (1809–49) has been turned into the Edgar Allan Poe National Historic Site, which displays artifacts illuminating Poe’s life and work.
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The University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology is devoted to the history of the world’s cultures, while the Balch Institute for Ethnic Studies focuses on Philadelphia’s history as a major immigration center. In addition, several museums in Philadelphia are devoted to the history of specific ethnic groups. These include the Afro-American Historical and Cultural Museum, the National Museum of American Jewish History, the Polish American Cultural Center, the American Swedish Historical Museum.
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Philadelphia Philadelphia’s legacy as the home of statesman and scientist Benjamin Franklin is reflected in the city’s distinguished science museums. Originally founded in 1824, the Franklin Institute Science Museum (also the site of the Benjamin Franklin National Memorial) was a leader in the development of hands-on science exhibits. The Academy of Natural Sciences has exhibits that include dioramas, hands-on experiments, and a gem and mineral display. The College of Physicians of Philadelphia sponsors both the C. Everett Koop Community Health Information Center and the Mütter Museum. 19
To u r i s m
An estimated three million tourists visit Philadelphia every year, drawn by the city’s historic and cultural attractions. The Philadelphia Convention Center, located in the central historic district, has boosted the city’s economy by creating new jobs in the service and retail sectors, as growing numbers of convention delegates visit Philadelphia.
Purim Festival Philadelphia Boat Show Philadelphia Flower Show
APRIL Historic Houses in Flower Penn Relays Springside School Antiques Show
APRIL–MAY Philadelphia Festival of World Cinema Philadelphia Open House Tours
MAY Chestnut Hill Garden Festival Blooms Flower & Garden Festival Devon Horse Show & Country Fair Jam Festival Jam on the River Pennsylvania Fair
MAY-SEPTEMBER Festival of Fountains
JUNE First Union U.S. Pro Championship Manayunk Arts Fest Midsommarfest Odunde African Street Festival & Marketplace Rittenhouse Square Fine Arts Annual
JUNE-JULY Welcome America
JULY Philadelphia International Film Festival
SEPTEMBER Yo Philadelphia Festival
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Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY
SEPTEMBER-MARCH Bach Festival of Philadelphia
OCTOBER-NOVEMBER
Mummers Parade
Philadelphia Museum of Art Craft Show
FEBRUARY
NOVEMBER
Black Writer’s Festival Chocolate Festival Junior Jazz Weekend Mardi Gras Jamboree PECO Energy Jazz Festival U.S. Hot Rod Grand Slam Monster Jam
Advanta Tennis Championships for Women
MARCH
Marian Anderson (1897–1993), singer.
Book & Cook Fair Maple Syrup Festival
Mary Cassatt (1844–1926), painter.
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DECEMBER Market Street East Holiday Festival
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Famous Citizens
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Philadelphia Wilt Chamberlain (1936–99), basketball player. W. C. Chamberlain (1879–1946), comic actor. Thomas Eakins (1844–1916), painter. Benjamin Franklin (1706–90), statesman and inventor. Grace Kelly (1929–82), screen actress and princess of Monaco. Margaret Mead (1901–1978), anthropologist. William Penn (1644–1718), founder of Pennsylvania.
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Philadelphia Convention Center 1101 Arch St. Philadelphia, PA 19107 (206) 447-5000 Philadelphia Convention & Visitors Bureau 1515 Market St., Suite 2020 Philadelphia, PA 19107 (215) 636-3300
Publications Philadelphia Business Journal 400 Market St., Suite 300 Philadelphia, PA 19106 Philadelphia Daily News P.O. Box 7788 Philadelphia, PA 19101
Edgar Allan Poe (1809–49), author.
Philadelphia Inquirer P.O. Box 8263 Philadelphia, PA 19101
Betsy Ross (1752–1836), flag maker.
Books
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For Further Study
Websites Philadelphia City Net. [Online] Available http:// www.city.net/countries/united_states/ pennsylvania/philadelphia (accessed December 8, 1999). Philadelphia City Pages. [Online] Available http: //philadelphia.thelinks.com/ (accessed December 8, 1999). Philadelphia Liberty Net. [Online] Available http: //www.libertynet.org (accessed December 8, 1999). Philadelphia Online. [Online] Available http: // www.phillynews.com/ (accessed December 8, 1999).
Government Offices Mayor’s Office 215 City Hall Philadelphia, PA 19107 (206) 686-2181 Philadelphia City Hall Philadelphia, PA 19107 (215) 686-1776
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Adams, Carolyn. Philadelphia: Neighborhoods, Division, and Conflict in a Post-industrial City. Philadelphia: Temple University Press, 1991. Cotter, John L., Daniel G. Roberts, and Michael Parrington. The Buried Past: An Archaeological History of Philadelphia. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 1992. Davis, Allen F., and Mark H. Haller, eds. The Peoples of Philadelphia: A History of Ethnic Groups and Lower-class Life, 1790–1940. Philadelphia, PA: University of Pennsylvania Press, 1998. Ellison, Elaine Krasnow, and Elaine Mark Jaffe. Voices from Marshall Street: Jewish Life in a Philadelphia Neighborhood, 1920–1960. Philadelphia: Camino Books, 1994. Gephart, Elizabeth S. Philadelphia with Children: A Guide to the Delaware Valley Including Lancaster and Hershey. Illustrated by Candace Stringer. 3rd ed. Philadelphia: Camino Books, 1996. Hulin-Salkin, Belinda. Greater Philadelphia: Into the Future, a Contemporary Portrait. 1st ed. Chatsworth, CA: Windsor Publications, 1991. Hutchins, Catherine E. Shaping a National Culture: The Philadelphia Experience, 1750–1800. 1st ed. New York: W.W. Norton, 1994. Morrone, Francis. An Architectural Guidebook to
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Philadelphia Philadelphia. Photography by James Iska. 1st ed. Salt Lake City, UT: Gibbs Smith, 1999. Rockland, Michael Aaron. Snowshoeing Through Sewers: Adventures in New York City, New Jersey, and Philadelphia. New Brunswick, NJ: Rutgers University Press, 1994. Seitz, Ruth Hoover. Philadelphia & Its Countryside.
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Photography by Blair Seitz ; foreword by James A. Michener. Harrisburg, PA: RB Books, 1994. Stevick, Philip. Imagining Philadelphia: Travelers' Views of the City from 1800 to the Present. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 1996.
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Phoenix Phoenix, Arizona, United States of America, North America Founded: 1864; Incorporated: 1881 Location: The Salt River Valley, south-central Arizona, United States, North America Motto: Ditat Deus (“God enriches,” state motto). Flag: Design adopted in 1990 features stylized symbol of the mythical bird, the phoenix, on a dark purple field. Flower: Blossom of the saguaro cactus (state flower) Time Zone: 5 AM Mountain Standard Time (MST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: White, 91.2%; Black, 5.2%; American Indian, Eskimo, Aleut, 1.9%; Asian and Pacific Islander,1.7%; Hispanic origin (may be of any race), 20%. Elevation: 332 m (1,090 ft) above sea level. Phoenix is located on flat desert land. Latitude and Longitude: 33º44'N, 112º07'W Climate: Desert climate with warm temperatures and low rainfall and humidity; very little wind except for storms in July and August. Hot summers and mild winters, with an average of 211 days of sunshine annually, one of the nation’s sunniest cities. Annual Mean Temperature: 22ºC (72ºF); January 11ºC (51ºF); August 32ºC (89ºF) Seasonal Average Snowfall: None Average Annual Precipitation: 19.5 cm (7.66 in) Government: Council-manager government Weights and Measures: Standard U.S. Monetary Units: Standard U.S. Telephone area codes: 602 Postal codes: 85001-85086
1
Introduction
When Phoenix, the capital of Arizona, was founded, its first settlers named it after a mythical beast that rises from the ashes, reflecting their hopes for the city that they rescued from decay by rebuilding a network of abandoned irrigation canals. People have always been drawn to the city by its year-round warm weather, sunny climate, and natural beauty, and in the twentieth century the development of air conditioning and the construction of major irrigation projects added to Phoenix’s appeal. Long regarded as a
magnet for retirees, Phoenix now attracts new residents of all ages and has been a major beneficiary of the wave of migration to the Sun Belt in recent decades. Its population today is 1.2 million and growing. It has become a leading commercial center of the Southwest, with a city government recognized as one of the nation’s most effective. 2
Getting There
Phoenix, the city between southern Texas and California, is located in the Salt River Valley in south-central Ari-
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Phoenix Bus and Railroad Service
Phoenix Population Profile City Proper Population: 1,246,712 Area: 1,225 sq km (473 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 20% Hispanic, 5.2% Black, 1.9%; American Indian, 1.7% Asian (minorities represented) Nicknames: Valley of the Sun
Metropolitan Area Population: 2,607,000 Description: Phoenix and Mesa, Arizona Area: 37,747 sq km (14,574 sq mi) World population rank1: 119 Percentage of national population2: 0.94% Average yearly growth rate: 2.1% Ethnic composition: 91.4% white; 4% black; 2.2% Asian; approximately 20% Hispanic (may be of any race) ——— 1. The Phoenix metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the United States’ total population living in the Phoenix metropolitan area.
zona. The Superstition Mountains and a series of lakes form the city’s eastern boundary, and the Phoenix Mountain Preserve encircles the city. Highways The major interstate highways running through Phoenix are I-10 (the Papago Freeway) and I-17 (the Black Canyon Freeway), which intersect in the city to form the Maricopa Freeway. (South of the city it becomes the Pima Freeway). State Route 89 (the Grand Avenue Expressway) enters the city from the northwest.
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Two Amtrak trains are available daily, and bus service is provided at the Greyhound/Trailways bus station on East Buckeye Road. Airports Phoenix has three airports, of which the major one is Sky Harbor International Airport, located five kilometers (three miles) southeast of downtown. The airport’s ongoing series of art exhibits, arranged by the Phoenix Art Commission, has been copied by other airports around the country. More than 23 airlines operate flights into and out of the city. Nearly 28 million people annually arrive at and depart from Phoenix by air. Shipping Phoenix benefits from its central location in relation to markets in Colorado, Utah, Texas, southern California, and Mexico, to which it is connected by a network of interstate highways. The city is served by more than 50 trucking companies, which provide commercial freight service to these and other locations. Two transcontinental rail lines provide rail freight service, and two airlines—American and American West— provide wide-body air cargo service. 3
Getting Around
The streets in the central part of the city are laid out in a grid plan, with numbered streets and avenues running north-south, and east-west streets named after presidents of the United
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Phoenix
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
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Phoenix
City Fact Comparison Phoenix (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
2,607,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1864
753 BC
723 BC
$172
$129
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$82
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$40
$56
$59
$62
$2
$14
$15
$16
$124
$173
$246
$207
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.) Total daily costs
$193
Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper
1
13
20
11
The Arizona Republic
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
435,330
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1890
1944
1976
1948
Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established 1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
States (including Washington, Adams, and Jefferson). The core of the downtown area can be found between Glendale Avenue and Maricopa Freeway. The Squaw Peak Freeway, a 16-kilometer (ten-mile) artery that connects downtown Phoenix with its northern suburbs, is lined with giant sculpted versions of Indian utensils in a public arts project that has drawn mixed reactions from Phoenix residents.
days only in Tempe and Mesa. The base fare is $1.25, and the average daily ridership is 112,400. The Reserve-a-Ride transportation program has served 196,000 elderly and disabled residents. Sightseeing In addition to the major attractions in the city itself, sightseers can take day trips by bus or charter plane to the Grand Canyon and other regional attractions.
Bus and Commuter Rail Service The Phoenix Transit System operates a fleet of 380 buses six days a week in the metropolitan area, and on week-
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4
People
In the decades following World War II (1939–45), Phoenix, together
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Phoenix with other areas of the Southwest, enjoyed a dramatic population increase as residents of northern cities moved westward. Phoenix itself has a population of 1,246,712, up from 983,403 (487,589 males and 495,814 females) in 1990; its rank has risen from ninth- to sixth-largest city in the nation. The population of the Phoenix-Mesa Metropolitan Statistical Area (MSA) was 2,238,498 in 1990, and an estimated 2,839,539 in 1997—an increase of over 25 percent—making it the fifteenthlargest MSA in the United States. In 1990, minorities represented in Phoenix’s population were Hispanics (20 percent), blacks (5.2 percent), American Indians (1.9 percent), and Asians (1.7 percent). As of 1996, the PhoenixMesa MSA was 91.4 percent white, four percent black, and 2.2 percent Asian. Hispanics (an ethnic category that crosses racial lines) make up about 20 percent of Phoenix’s population. Because of its large Hispanic presence, Phoenix has traditionally been a heavily Catholic city. Catholics still make up between one-fourth and onethird of the population, although this percentage has been declining. The next largest denominations are the Church of Latter-Day Saints, or Mormons (Phoenix has the nation’s thirdhighest Mormon population), Southern Baptists, and United Methodists. 5
Neighborhoods
Phoenix and its suburbs form a 2,072-square-kilometer (800-squaremile) grid of north-south and east-west
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
streets and avenues, surrounded by mountains and desert. Downtown Phoenix, the historic center of the city, is home to Arizona’s capitol building, the Phoenix Civic Center, Heritage Square, and other important sites. A newer neighborhood, called “midtown” serves as an extension of the downtown, housing the city’s main library, its art museum, and other museums, as well as office buildings. Phoenix is the hub of a rapidly growing metropolitan area that includes 23 satellite towns, all located along the Salt River Valley. Relatively low housing costs contribute to the popularity of Phoenix. In 1990 the average value of a single home was $77,100, well below the national average. In addition, Phoenix’s property taxes have been rated the ninth lowest in the nation by Money magazine. A number of government and private groups oversee urban redevelopment, including the Central Phoenix Redevelopment Agency, Phoenix Community and Economic Development Administration, and Metro Phoenix Economic Development Consortium. Since the late 1980s, the city has carried out a $1.1 billion redevelopment program that has included construction of the Arizona Center and Mercado shopping complexes and the 18,000-seat America West Arena, home of the Phoenix Suns. The city has 7,364 federally assisted housing units.
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Phoenix
The city of Phoenix. (Jessen Associates, Inc. Greater Phoenix Convention & Vistors Bureau)
6
History
Native Americans occupied the site of present-day Phoenix hundreds of years ago, building a thriving community between 700 and 1400, establishing an agriculture-based civilization in the dry land of the region by developing an irrigation system that included over 161 kilometers (100 miles) of canals. By the middle of the fifteenth century, this civilization had vanished, possibly decimated by an extended period of drought. Their Native American successors called them the Hohokam (“the people who have gone”).
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By the sixteenth century, Hispanic conquistadors had arrived in Arizona, introducing new agricultural techniques, as well as horses and cows. Over the following centuries, Europeans began settling in the region, drawn by mining and trading opportunities. The modern city of Phoenix had its beginnings in the late 1860s when a small group of settlers formed a colony in the area and began building canals on the site of the former Hohokam irrigation system. Because the new settlement was rising from the ashes of a former civilization, the name “Phoenix” was chosen for it in 1868. In 1881, its local govern-
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Phoenix ment was changed from a village trustee system to one consisting of a mayor and a city council, and the city was incorporated. Its population was 2,500 at the time. Phoenix progressed rapidly. Within a decade it had a horsedrawn streetcar line and one of the earliest electric plants in the West, and the Southern Pacific railroad had arrived, promoting the economy of the growing city. The completion of the Theodore Roosevelt Dam in 1911 was a milestone in Phoenix’s history. The largest masonry dam in the world, it was also the first dam constructed to supply both water and electricity. The following year, Arizona became a state, and Phoenix became its capital. In the first two decades of the twentieth century, the city’s population grew from approximately 5,000 to 29,000 as Phoenix began to make the transition to a modern city. In addition to the railroad and the Roosevelt Dam, a third technological advance—the development of air conditioning—played an important role in the city’s continued growth. World War II (1939–45) brought large numbers of men to military bases in the area and contributed to the growth of industry, which rapidly replaced agriculture as the most important sector in the city’s economy. In the postwar decades, Phoenix prospered, growing more rapidly than ever. Since 1950, the city’s population has risen from 106,000 to 1.2 million, the seventh largest in the nation, and Phoenix has become the leading southwestern center for business and indus-
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try. In the 1990s, it experienced yet another in a series of population booms, as a number of Californians moved to the area. Although Phoenix has inevitably experienced some of the disadvantages of rapid growth, including urban sprawl and air pollution, its city government has been recognized as one of the most effective in the nation and is committed to maintaining the quality of life for its residents as the city’s growth continues into the twenty-first century. 7
Government
Phoenix government is structured as a council-manager system, with eight council members who are elected to four-year terms. The mayor is also elected to a four-year term. Phoenix’s municipal government has been widely recognized for its effective city management. In 1993 the city shared the Carl Bertelsmann Prize, an international prize for well-run local government, with Christchurch, New Zealand. 8
Public Safety
Phoenix has 2,320 sworn police officers and 1,138 sworn firefighters. The city is divided into six police precincts. In 1997 a total of 124,884 crimes were reported to police, down from 131,628 the previous year. Violent crimes accounted for 11,386 calls, and property crimes 103,306. Numbers for individual types of crime included arson, 116; homicide, 229; sexual assault, 825; robbery, 3,806; and burglary, 39,905.
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Phoenix Most recently, the high-technology and service sectors have also moved to the forefront—retail trade and services account for close to half of all employment in the city. More than 40 companies have corporate headquarters in Phoenix. Service-sector companies with headquarters in the city include Ramada, Best Western, Greyhound, and U-Haul. Financial services companies with a corporate presence in the city include Wells Fargo Bank, Chase Bank, American Express, Discover Card Services, and Bank of America. 10
Shoppers at one of Phoenix’s many malls. (Jessen Associates, Inc.; Greater Phoenix Convention & Visitors Bureau)
9
Economy
With continuous population growth and an abundance of land and water, Phoenix has a thriving economy. In the decades since World War II, agriculture, manufacturing, and tourism have all played a major role in Phoenix’s economy, creating jobs to keep pace with the city’s growing population. Industries include agricultural chemicals, aircraft parts, electronic equipment, radios, air-conditioning equipment, leather goods, and Native American crafts.
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Environment
Phoenix has experienced some of the problems associated with urban growth, including air pollution. In 1995 Phoenix was among the cities failing to meet national ambient air quality standards for carbon monoxide and ozone for at least a few days of the year. The city of Phoenix collects 514,382 metric tons (567,000 tons) of solid waste annually and handles 395,887 metric tons (436,383 tons) as part of recycling programs in which 100,000 households participate. The city operates five water treatment plants, treating 270 billion liters (71.3 billion gallons) of wastewater annually. 11
Shopping
In addition to the standard department stores and specialty shops, Phoenix offers stores specializing in regional items, including Western-style clothing, copper products, Native American crafts, and leather crafts. The Arizona
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Phoenix Center in downtown Phoenix has some 500 shops and restaurants on two levels, as well as a one-hectare (three-acre) garden area; live entertainment also performs in the evenings. Also downtown, the Town and Country Shopping Center (Arizona’s first open-air mall) has about 70 shops, eateries, and service providers spread throughout an attractive setting with fountains and red brick sidewalks. The exclusive Biltmore Fashion Park features such nationwide chains as Saks Fifth Avenue, Macy’s, and Ann Taylor, as well as a variety of smaller clothing, jewelry, and specialty shops. Other downtown shopping centers include the Tower Plaza Mall and the award-winning Colonade Mall. A unique shopping experience is provided by the Mercado, a two-blocklong complex of commercial buildings adjacent to the Phoenix Civic Plaza that is modeled on a traditional Mexican village. The colorful buildings and courtyards of this Mexican-theme mall and cultural center house shops featuring Mexican arts, crafts, and clothing, as well as Mexican restaurants. A variety of specialty items can be found at the gift shops of the Phoenix Art Museum and the Desert Botanical Garden. Once a week farmers from the region come to sell their produce at the farmers’ market in the courtyard of Heritage Square, and American Park ‘N Swap—the largest outdoor flea market in the Southwest— is open for business all weekend and two days a week.
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
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Education
Phoenix has over 20 public school districts, with individual superintendents and school boards; altogether they operate more than 400 schools. The city’s largest school district, the Phoenix Union High School District, had 15 schools in the 1995–96 school year, with a total enrollment of 21,083 students. The Phoenix-Mesa metropolitan statistical area had a public school enrollment of 443,053 in 1994–95, up 12.6 percent from 1991–92. The region has a large magnet school program that offers intensive study in a variety of fields. There are 63 Head Start classroom sites in Phoenix, with 126 classrooms. Institutions of higher education in Phoenix include Grand Canyon University, a campus of Arizona State University, Phoenix College, DeVry Institute of Technology, Maricopa Community Colleges, Phoenix Institute of Technology, and South Mountain College. Maricopa Community Colleges is the country’s second-largest community college system. 13
Health Care
Health care plays an important part in Phoenix’s economy, employing over 33,000 people in the greater metropolitan region. The Phoenix-Mesa metropolitan statistical area had 3,927 officebased physicians in 1995. Phoenix’s largest hospital is St. Joseph’s Hospital and Medical Center, with 629 beds. Other facilities include the worldrenowned Barrow Neurological Insti-
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Phoenix vision station, and several cable outlets, as well as 27 AM and FM radio stations, some of which broadcast in Spanish. 15
Tourists escape the city to hike the Grand Canyon, only a short distance from Phoenix. (Jessen Associates, Inc.; Greater Phoenix Convention & Visitors Bureau)
tute, Arizona State Hospital, Good Samaritan Medical Center, Phoenix Children’s Hospital, Maricopa Medical Center, Phoenix Indian Medical Center, and the Veterans Administration Medical Center.3 14
Media
Phoenix has two major daily newspapers: The Arizona Republic (morning) and The Phoenix Gazette (evening), as well as about 50 other daily and weekly publications. Also published in Phoenix are the Phoenix Magazine and Arizona Highways. The city has eight commercial television stations, one public tele-
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Sports
Phoenix is home to the National Basketball Association’s Phoenix Suns, who play at the America West Arena; the National Football League’s Phoenix Cardinals; the National Hockey League’s Phoenix Coyotes; and the International Hockey Leagues’ Phoenix Roadrunners, as well as baseball’s TripleA Firebirds. An expansion baseball team, the Arizona Diamondbacks, was launched in 1998. In addition, Arizona State University fields Sun Devils teams in baseball, basketball, and football. Other spectator sports include auto racing at the Phoenix International Raceway and the Manzanita Speedway, horse racing at Turf Paradise, and greyhound racing at Phoenix Greyhound Park. Phoenix is also the site of the following annual sporting events: five golf tournaments, including the Phoenix Open and the LPGA Turquoise Classic; the Formula One Grand Prix auto race; and the Phoenix Jaycees’ Rodeo of Rodeos. Almost ten major league baseball teams hold spring training in Phoenix and play exhibition games in March and early April.
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Phoenix
A hoop dancer performs at the Heard Museum. (Jessen Associates, Inc.; Greater Phoenix Convention & Visitors Bureau)
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Parks and Recreation
Phoenix’s parks, including Mountains Preserve, are comprised of 12,319
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
hectares (30,441 acres). Reportedly the nation’s largest city park at 6,475 hectares (16,000 acres), South Mountain Park provides a scenic view of the city and offers hiking trails and horseback
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Phoenix riding. There is a boat lagoon at Encanto Park, which is located at 15th Avenue and Encanto Boulevard. The Margaret T. Hance Deck Park, part of the ongoing improvements to the downtown area, is a 12-hectare (29acre) strip of land between Third Street and Third Avenue with fountains, wooded areas, and a Japanese garden (a gesture toward Phoenix’s sister city of Hemeji, Japan). Other parks in the Phoenix area include Papago Park, Squaw Peak Recreation Area, Estrella Mountain Regional Park, and White Tank Mountain Regional Park. Phoenix has 663 kilometers (412 miles) of bicycle paths, 141 municipal tennis courts, 27 municipal swimming pools, and five municipal golf courses. Together, Phoenix and the surrounding Salt River Valley area have over 140 golf courses and more than 1,000 tennis and racquetball courts. Water sports are played at a variety of natural and artificial lakes in the region. Other outdoor activities enjoyed year round in the Phoenix area include hiking, mountain climbing, camping, and horseback riding. The Phoenix Zoo, situated on a hilly site covering 51 hectares (125 acres), houses over 1,300 animals, representing 300 different species both from the region and throughout the world, and including 150 animals classified as endangered. The animals are maintained in open settings that are as close as possible to their natural habitats, including facsimiles of mountains, rain forests, grasslands, and deserts. There is also a petting zoo for children.
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The Desert Botanical Garden displays over 2,000 species of desert plants, situated along a 2.4-kilometer (1.5-mile) trail. 17
Performing Arts
The performing arts are well represented in Phoenix and enhanced by the completion in 1989 of the downtown Herberger Theater Center, next door to the Phoenix Civic Plaza Convention Center. The complex houses the 820seat Center Stage and the 330-seat Stage West. The Phoenix Symphony performs both classical and pops concerts at Symphony Hall, which seats 1,400. The Phoenix Little Theatre, the city’s oldest theater company, was founded in 1920 and has operated continuously since that time. Theater groups that perform in the new theaters of the Herberger complex include the Arizona Theatre Company, Black Theater Troupe, Actors Theatre of Phoenix, Aurora Mime Theatre, and Musical Theater of Arizona. Phoenix is also home to the Centre Dance Ensemble and Opera Musical Theatre. The Arizona Opera also performs regularly in Phoenix, and a variety of touring artists appear at the Phoenix Desert Sky Pavilion, Celebrity Theatre, and Grammage Auditorium. The newly restored 1929 Spanish baroque-revival Orpheum Theatre is a showcase for the performing arts as well as civic events.
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Phoenix 18
Libraries and Museums
Phoenix’s first library, housed in two rooms of a building, was launched at the turn of the century, thanks to the efforts of the Phoenix Library Association, formed in 1899. Today the Phoenix Public Library has a collection totaling 1.8 million book volumes, as well as publications and other media. It has a main building downtown, and 11 neighborhood branches throughout the city. Altogether, Phoenix has more than 50 libraries of all types, including university libraries and research centers. The Phoenix Art Museum displays artworks by American, European, and Asian artists. Its permanent collection consists of some 18,000 objects, and it is noted particularly for its collections of Asian and Latin American art, and eighteenth-century French painting. The museum of the Arizona Historical Society offers interactive exhibits focusing on the history of central Arizona and includes life-size re-creations of stores and other buildings from the city’s early days. The Heard Museum of Anthropology and Primitive Art features an outstanding collection focusing on regional Native American cultures. Displayed are artifacts ranging from prehistory to the present, including tools, clothing, weapons, and Navajo, Hopi, and Zuni crafts. The Phoenix Hall of Flame is a firefighting museum with one of the world’s most extensive collections of fire-fighting gear, gathered from all over the world and ranging from horse-
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drawn equipment to state-of-the-art computerized dispatch systems. Other museums in the Phoenix area include the Phoenix Museum of History; the Arizona Museum of Science and Technology, an interactive museum geared primarily toward children; Arizona Mining and Mineral Museum; Cave Creek Museum; Pioneer Arizona Living History Museum; Arizona Military Museum; the Pueblo Grande Museum and Cultural Park, which focuses on archaeology and the history of the Hohokam Indians, the first known inhabitants of present-day Phoenix; and the Plotkin Judaica Museum. The Arizona Hall of Fame, located in downtown Phoenix, honors individuals who have made a significant contribution to the state. Historic artifacts are on view in four turn-of-the-century homes located in Heritage Square: the Arizona Doll and Toy Museum, the Silva House, the Stevens-Haustgen House (home of the Pueblo Grande Museum described above), and the Rosson House, which features an exceptional collection of period furniture. 19
To u r i s m
Visitors from many areas have long been drawn to Phoenix’s dry, sunny climate and its year-round warm weather, making tourism one of the city’s top sources of income and the state’s second-largest source of employment. Phoenix receives almost ten million visitors a year from the United States and Canada. Visits by Japanese tourists were
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Phoenix (340,00-square-foot) Civic Plaza and Convention Center is Phoenix’s major convention facility. Other convention venues include Veterans Memorial Coliseum at Arizona State University.
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Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Arizona Stock Show & Rodeo Copper World Classic Auto Racing Fiesta Bowl Phoenix Open Golf Tournament
FEBRUARY ARR Desert Classic Marathon Fountain Hills Festival of Arts & Crafts Fountain Hills Great Fair Lost Dutchman Days
MARCH Arizona’s Cactus League Spring Training Chandler Ostrich Festival Indy Racing League Phoenix 200 Scottsdale Arts Festival Phoenix hosts the Arizona Stock Show and Rodeo every January. (Jessen Associates, Inc.; Greater Phoenix Convention & Visitors Bureau)
boosted with the introduction of direct flights to and from Tokyo in 1991, and European tourism was increased when direct flights to and from London were started in 1996. The city has 83 hotels and resorts, with a total of 21,272 rooms. Phoenix has become an increasingly popular convention site in the past two decades, with convention attendees accounting for almost 40 percent of all visitors to the city. With a total seating capacity of more than 29,000, the 31,586-square-meter
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APRIL Easter Pageant Maricopa County Fair Music by Moonlight Concert Series Southwest Salsa Challenge
MAY Cinco de Mayo Festival Peach Festival Queen Creek Potato Festival
JULY July Fourth Festivities
OCTOBER Coors Light World Finals Drag Boat Racing Cowboy Artists of America Exhibition
NOVEMBER French Week in Arizona Holiday Out West Arts & Crafts Festival Hot Air Balloon Race & Thunderbird Balloon Classic
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Phoenix DECEMBER
Government Offices
Electro Magic Pueblo Grande Indian Market Tumbleweed Christmas Tree Lighting Ceremony
Mayor’s Office 200 W. Washington St., 11th Floor Phoenix, AZ 85003 602-262-7111
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Famous Citizens
Joan Ganz Cooney (b. 1929), television producer. Barry Goldwater (1909–98), U.S. Senator and Republican presidential candidate. Stevie (Stephanie) Nicks (b. 1948), musician, member of the rock band Fleetwood Mac. Mare Winningham (b. 1959), singer and actress. 22
For Further Study
Websites DigitalCity WebGuide Phoenix. [Online] Available http://www.webguide.digitalcity.com/ phoenix. (accessed October 14, 1999). The Links.com. “Phoenix.” [Online] Available http://www.phoenix.thelinks.com (accessed October 14, 1999). Phoenix City Hall. [Online] Available http:// www.ci.phoenix.az.us. (accessed October 14, 1999). Phoenix City Net. [Online] Available http:// www.city.net/countries/united_states/ arizona/phoenix. (accessed October 14, 1999). Phoenix Guide. [Online] Available http:// www.phoenixaz.com. (accessed October 14, 1999). Phoenix Online. [Online] Available http://www. phoenixonline.com. (accessed October 14, 1999). Phoenix & Valley of the Sun Convention & Visitors Bureau. [Online] Available http:// www.arizonaguide.com-phxcvb. (accessed October 14, 1999).
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Phoenix City Hall 200 W. Washington St. Phoenix, AZ 85003 602-262-6659 Phoenix Community & Economic Development Department 200 W. Washington St., 11th Floor Phoenix, AZ 85003 602-262-5040
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Phoenix Civic Plaza Convention Center 225 E. Adams St. Phoenix, AZ 85004 602-262-7272 Phoenix and Valley of the Sun Convention & Visitors Bureau 400 E. Van Buren 1 Arizona Center, Suite 600 Phoenix, AZ 85004 602-254-6500
Publications Arizona Business Guide P.O. Box 194 Phoenix, AZ 85001 Arizona Republic P.O. Box 1950 Phoenix, AZ 85001 Phoenix Magazine 5555 N. 7th Ave., Suite B200 Phoenix, AZ 85013
Books Arizona Atlas and Gazetteer. Freeport, ME: De Lorme Mapping, 1993. Atchison, Sterwart, and Bruce Grubbs. The Hiker’s Guide to Arizona. Helena, MT: Falcon Press Publishing, 1991. Dolainski, Stephen. Hidden Arizona. Berkeley, CA: Ulysses Press, 1997. Freeman, Roger, and Ethel Freeman. Day Hikes and Trail Rides In and Around Phoenix. Phoenix, AZ: 1991.
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Phoenix Johnson, G. Wesley. Phoenix, Valley of the Sun. Tulsa, OK: Continental Heritage Press, 1982. Johnson, G. Wesley, ed. Phoenix in the Twentieth Century: Essays in Community History. Norman: University of Oklahoma Press, 1993. Luckingham, Bradford. Phoenix: The History of a Southwestern Metropolis. Tucson: University of Arizona Press, 1989. Trimble, Marshall. Roadside History of Arizona.
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Missoula, MT: Mountain Press Publishing Co., 1996.
Videorecordings A Tour of Phoenix and the State of Arizona. [videorecording] Memphis, TN: City Productions Home Video, 1996.
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Prague Prague, Central Bohemia, Czech Republic, Europe Founded: 870 Location: North-central Czech Republic on both sides of the Vltava River, Central Bohemia, Europe Time Zone: 1 PM = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: Czech, Moravian, Slovak, German, Polish, Gypsy, and Hungarian Elevation: 300 m (1000 ft) above sea level Coastline: Vltava River Climate: Winters are cold, cloudy, and humid, with little snow and ice; summers are warm and sunny. Annual Mean Temperature: January, high of 0°C (32°F) and a low of 6°C (22°F); July, high of 24°C (76°F) and low of 56°F Government: Mayor and a city council Weights and measures: Metric Monetary Units: The koruna (Kc) equals 100 haleru. Telephone Area Codes: Country code 420; area code 02 (It is sometimes necessary to dial several times before making a connection because the system is old.)
1
Introduction
Often called the “City of a Hundred Spires,” Prague is an ancient European city, situated between hill and valley on the banks of the Vltava River. Renowned for its beauty, visitors travel from around the world to see the city’s medley of Gothic, Renaissance, baroque, and art nouveau architecture, its bridges, domes, palaces, and especially its spires. However, a great deal of construction in recent years has transformed Prague into a modern city as well, with state-of-the art public buildings, an underground railway, and a newly designed highway system. The capital and the largest city of the Czech Republic, Prague is the nation’s leading
center of commerce and industry, an economic, social, and cultural hub. 2
Getting There
Although the roadblocks of communism have only recently been lifted, Prague is not hard to access these days. Numerous flights, trains, and buses connect with the city every day, and the roads are getting better as the city strives to forge closer ties with the West. Highways Prague has been undergoing a major reconstruction project, including a redesigned highway system that will connect this "Eastern" country with
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Prague
Prague Population Profile Population: 1,225,000 Ethnic composition: Czech, Moravian, Slovak, German, Polish, Gypsy, and Hungarian World population rank1: 298 Percentage of national population2: 12.9% Average yearly growth rate: 0.1% Nicknames: Golden Prague, City of a Hundred Spires, The Only Medieval City Still Standing in the World, A Town Built of Stone and Mortar ——— 1. The Prague metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the Czech Republic’s total population living in the Prague metropolitan area.
the West. The speed limits have been raised to other European standards, 121 kilometers (75 miles) per hour on fourlane freeways, 88 kilometers (55 miles) per hour on open roads, and 48 kilometers (30 miles) per hour in built-up regions. Seatbelts are compulsory on all roads in Prague, a transportation system that covers over 55,557 kilometers (34,524 miles). Bus and Railroad Service The city of Prague is connected to most major European centers by rail and bus, especially to locations in the Czech Republic, including Plzen, Kutná Hera, and Brno. Most trains arrive at Praha Hlavmi Nadrczi (Main Station), or Praha Holesovice, Praha Sovichori or Praha Marsarykovo Nadrezi stations. The major bus companies, CAD and the express coach of the CEBUS firm and
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Czech National Express, have buses running from Prague to Brno and other destinations. Airports The airport serving Prague and the general vicinity is Ruzyne Airport, located about 15 kilometers (9 miles) northwest of the city center. Transportation to and from the airport is provided by Cedaz shuttle bus 119, taxis, and Belinda, a private shuttle company. Air France, Austrian Airlines, British Airways, Czech Airlines, Delta, Lufthansa, Sabena, Swissair, and other airlines operate at this airport. 3
Getting Around
The easiest way to get around Prague is by car, but it is relatively simple to see the city by foot and public transportation. Most guidebooks describe walking tours that allow plenty of time to enjoy the scenery. Bus and Commuter Rail Service There are three metro lines, trams, and buses that traverse Prague. Tickets can be purchased from automats, ticket booth attendants, or local Trafika shops that offer tickets good for three, seven, and 15 days. Transportation information centers are located at Karlovo Namesti, Muzeum, Mustek, and Nadrazi Holecovice metro stops. The underground operates from 5:00 AM until midnight.
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Prague
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
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Prague Taxis Prices are not regulated for Prague taxis; therefore, rider and driver usually agree on a price before entering the car. It is necessary to call the taxi company in advance; AAA Taxi and ProfiTaxi are recommended companies. Sightseeing Parks, public gardens, and a zoo adorn the city of Prague, and weekend excursions to castles and historical cities are popular. The city’s many museums are accessible by bus and rail, especially close to the metro stations, and are sometimes located directly inside metro passageways. By train, one may also visit the famous Marianske Lazne spa town, a three-hour journey west from Hlavni Nadrazi train station. The Bohemian Express tour guide company organizes customized itineraries in Prague and the rest of the Czech Republic. 4
People
The population of Prague stands somewhere around 1,225,000, a number that has been declining since the 1980s. Despite a sizable number of immigrants and foreign workers, the city (like most advanced European societies) has an extremely low birthrate. Most Czech citizens are Roman Catholic (43 percent) while the minority are Protestant (15 percent), and a total of 82 percent are Christian. Most of the population consists of Czech nationals, Moravians, Slovaks, Germans, Poles, Hungarians, and an unknown number
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of itinerant Gypsies. The official language is Czech, but many know Russian as well, and many more would have known German if, after World War II (1939–45), around 2.5 million ethnic Germans had not been expelled from the Sudenten region in retaliation for wartime atrocities. 5
Neighborhoods
Prague is divided into sections that are formed directionally and according to the position of historical monuments. To the east lies Zizkov, an old quarter with little tourism and few attractions, but the Letecke Meuseum (Aviation Museum) and Zizkov TV Tower, with a restaurant 63 meters (207 feet) above ground, are worth visiting. In western Prague, the city suburbs take visitors into more rural areas, where the Grand Hvezda (Star) hunting lodge and Brevnov Monastery lie in pastoral solitude. To the north lie Troja Chateau, which is used as lecture, concert, and theater hall, as well as an exhibition space by the Gallery of the Municipality of Prague, and the zoo, known especially for its exhibition of the rare Przewalski horse. The south hosts the famous Velka Chuchle Horse Racing Course. The Old Town, at the very center of Prague, is the showpiece of the city, including Mala Strana (Little Quarter or Lesser Town) with a marketplace in front of the church of St. Nicholas below Castle Hill. This part of town used to hold the Jewish Ghetto, but today the only vestiges are the synagogues and Old Town Hall. Hradcany, Prague Castle, was built in the ninth
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Prague
City Fact Comparison Prague (Czech Republic)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
1,233,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
870
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$177
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$61
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$15
$14
$15
$16
$253
$173
$246
$207
15
13
20
11
Blesk
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
420,000
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
n.a.
1944
1976
1948
Total daily costs Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established 1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
century, on one of the hills surrounding the community. Its rustic environs invite tourists to visit the ramparts and learn about Prague’s history. In contrast, the New Town is the commercial center, or “Golden Cross,” consisting of Wenceslas Square and the nearby roads, where in 1989, with the Soviet Union about to crumble, students gathered and demanded free elections in what came to be known as the "Velvet Revolution." Wenceslas Square is crossed by Narodni and Naprikope streets, making it the busiest shopping area with many markets.
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6
History
The erection of Prague Castle by Premyslid Prince Borivoj in 870 marks the first permanent settlement in Prague. Hradcany, or Prague Castle, then becomes the first seat of the Premyslid (Premyslovci) princes who rule the Kingdom of Bohemia after 894 (with the aid of the western Germans against the eastern Hungarian Maygars). During the next three centuries, the city is populated by many Germans and built up around the Vltava River, with Vysehrad Castle, the Gothic Cathedral of St. Vitus, and Judith’s stone bridge. The Bohemian Premsylid dynasty ends in
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Prague
A view of Prague from Berlin Hill. (Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp)
1305 when Vaclav II (r. 1280–1305) dies from consumption and excess, and his son is murdered, leaving no heirs. Czech nobles give the throne to John of Luxembourg and his son Charles IV (1346–1378), who also becomes Holy Roman Emperor. He brings a great time of prosperity to Prague, second only to Rome, by founding Charles University, the first one in Central Europe. This “Golden Age” is followed by a period of unrest as the Hussite Revolution, started by the burning of Jan Hus, brings a reaction against domination of the Germans and the Catholic Church.
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Ferdinand of Hapsburg is elected to the Crown of St. Wenceslas. As a result, the next three centuries are marked by the rule of the House of Catholic Hapsburgs, which experiences the opposition of a predominantly Protestant citizenry. There is a fire in 1541 at Prague Castle, Hradcany, and the Lesser Town, and many Bohemians lose property during anti-Hapsburg uprisings. However, this period also is known for its development of the arts under Emperor Rudolph II (1576–1612). In 1618, two Protestant churches are closed, precipitating the “Defenestration of Prague,” when Protestants throw two Imperial Governors out of
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Prague the windows of Prague Castle. This action, and the execution of 27 Protestant nobles, leads to the Thirty Years War (1618–48), pitting Catholics against Protestants, ending with the Peace of Westphalia and German-Catholic rule. Industrialization brings growth to the city, and in 1784 Emperor Joseph II (1741–90) merges the four towns: Old Town, New Town, Lesser Town, and Hradcany, into the contemporary Capital City of Prague. In 1848, riots in Prague bring about a Pan-Slavic Congress, which emancipates the Czech nation from the Austrio-Hungarian Empire, under Bohemian historian Francis Palacky. Thomas Masaryk (1850–1937) becomes the first Czechoslovakian President from 1918 to 1937, ruling Bohemia, Moravia, and Slovakia, but in 1939 Hitler occupies the Sudetenland, ending independent rule. By 1945, the Communist Party had grown considerably in the Czech nation under Russian influence, allying the government with the Soviet Union until the 1968 Prague Spring and revolution. Under President General Ludwik Svoboda (1895–1979), the country begins to liberalize, but the U.S.S.R. and the Warsaw Pact allies quell this rebellion by occupying Czechoslovakia with 650,000 troops. By 1989, the Soviet Union is ready to crumble. In what is known as the "Velvet Revolution," students gather on Wenceslas Square and demand free elections. In 1990, Vaclav Havel becomes president of Czechoslovakia and later of
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The St. Vitus Cathedral was built during the Bohemian Premsylid dynasty, which was part of the first permanent settlement of Prague. (Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp)
the Czech Republic. In 1993, Czechoslovakia splits into the more affluent, western, democratic Czech Republic and the eastern, left-leaning Slovakia, making way for Prague, as part of the Czech Republic, to enter the European Union. 7
Government
Prague’s city government is administered by a mayor and city council. The
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Prague
Although not too intimidating during the day, at night Old Town in Mala Strana is home to petty thieves and pickpockets. (Bernard Boutrit; Woodfin Camp)
mayor and city council members are popularly elected to four-year terms. For administrative purposes, the city is divided into ten districts that possess separate offices. Some major concerns of contemporary politicians include the housing shortage caused by communist neglect, pollution, and a recent rise in crime. Prague is one of eight regions of the Czech Republic, all governed by President Vaclav Havel (b. 1936) and Prime Minister Milos Zeman (b. 1944). 8
Public Safety
The rise in crime in Prague during 1999 is largely a result of the financial
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collapse of Russia, with Russian gangsters operating in most major central and eastern European cities. This kind of crime will not affect most travelers, but pickpockets and petty thieves abound in Wenceslas Square, Old Town Square, Charles Bridge, and near Prague Castle. In case of emergency, citizens and visitors can dial 158 for the police, 155 for an ambulance, and 150 in the event of a fire. Na Homolce Hospital has a foreigner’s clinic. 9
Economy
The monetary denomination of the Czech Republic is the Koruna (Kc),
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Prague which has an exchange rate of about 30.5 Kc to one U.S. dollar, remaining fairly stable since its inception. The city of Prague has a well-diversified, highly industrial economy. Main products are metals and machinery, aircraft engines, automobiles (Volkswagen AG), diesel engines, machine tools, refined oil products, electronics, beer, chemicals, and food. During the communist era, Prague and the surrounding countryside produced approximately 80% of the products it consumed, but recently there has been a boom in the newly privatized service sector as the country strives for free-market, democratic practice. Unemployment holds steady at about three percent, and inflation continues to level out through excellent economic planning, but the gross domestic product (GDP) per capita is still below most other industrialized countries, at a purchasing power parity of about $10,000. The collapse of the Russian economy negatively affected the banking system and caused a short recession in 1999, driving away investors. However, eventual entrance to the European Union is expected to balance out the effects. The city still depends on Russia for its oil and gas, but officials are looking for alternatives, such as solar power, nuclear plants, and new sources of oil and gas. 10
Environment
Due to rapid industrialization during the twentieth century, there are serious levels of air, water, and soil pollution in Prague and its surrounding environment. The levels of air pollution
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are exacerbated during the winter months by the burning of soft coal to provide heat. For this reason, lung cancer is prevalent in the city, and in 1992 the country was measured as having the world’s highest industrial carbon dioxide emissions levels. The air is also contaminated by sulfur dioxide emissions, mainly from ore of lignite, also a popular heating fuel, which contributes heavily to the occurrence of acid rain throughout Europe. Acid rain floating over from Poland and Germany has also destroyed a large portion of forest in the northern part of the country. Western nations offered $1 billion to the Czech Republic for environmental reforms in the early 1990s, but economic growth was more important to the government at the time. Rich in natural resources, there are more than 15,000 lakes and ponds in the Czech Republic and 2,000 medicinal mineral springs in 30 spa towns, but unfortunately most of these are polluted. Clay, tin-tungsten, lead, zinc, and uranium mining adds to the agricultural deforestation and soil erosion of the land, and a nuclear power plant at Dukovany adds the danger of radioactive poisoning in the event of a nuclear meltdown. Prague also acts as the country’s transportation hub, making pollution from aircraft, trains, and boats prevalent. 11
Shopping
Most stores in Prague are open during the week from 9:00 AM until 6:00 PM (some until 9:00 PM) with lunch breaks, closed from noon until 4:00 PM on Saturday and closed all day Sunday. Prague
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Prague is well known for its beautiful glass works, most notably from Moser glassworks in Karlovy Vary, from Bohemia Podebrady, Crystalex Novy Bor, Lustry Kqmenicky Senov, Zelezny Brod, and Svetla nad Sazavou. Crystal, porcelain, and red garnet stones are also popular items that can be purchased in many tourist shops and city stores, especially near the center of town. The biggest shopping area is located at Wenceslas Square and the surrounding streets, with a number of daily markets. At restaurants, it is normal to tip around ten percent of the total bill, and it is better to tell the waiter how much you are tipping before he takes the payment. 12
Education
In Prague, children generally attend school from ages six to 11; they then have eight years of secondary schooling in the academic and technical tracks and for teaching careers. Twenty-three universities operate in the Czech Republic, and students must pay only one-quarter of the fees. Charles University, founded in 1348, is one of the oldest and best-known institutions of higher learning in Europe. The Czech Academy of Sciences and a large technical university also reside in Prague. For centuries, education in Prague has been heavily influenced, first by the Hapsburgs, who forced the German language on Czech natives, and then by the Communists, who forced socialist principals and the Russian language and banned religion. Now, education in Prague is notably free of religious and political persuasion. The International
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School of Prague, founded in 1948 for foreign students, teaches pre-kindergarten through eleventh grade, and the French Cultural Center teaches in French to nursery and kindergartenaged children. With 100 percent literacy levels since the early twentieth century, Prague’s educational system is more successful than those of many countries. 13
Health Care
Health care in Prague under communist control was under strict state administration. Standards were not high, and equipment was outdated in clinics and hospitals. Since 1990, privatization has improved services under the guidance of the Ministry of Health through the National Health Service. Factories and offices often still have onsite facilities for employees, but the government is encouraging private medical practices. Life expectancy is between 69 and 77 years, which is rising due to new medicines and inoculations, while the birthrate is falling. One interesting facet of Prague health care is that insurance companies are required by law to pay doctors within five days of treatment. Citizens and visitors can dial 155 for emergency medical service. 14
Media
The Prague Post puts out a weekly paper for English speakers; Prague Guide comes out monthly; and What, Where, When is also published monthly. Czech publications from Prague include Lidove Noviny, Mlada Fronta, Rude Pravo, Svo-
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Prague bodne Slovo, Prace Revolutionary Trade Union Movement, and ZN Noviny. Radio Prague broadcasts daily in five languages. Nova TV is the most popular television station but is also known for its low-brow programming. 15
Sports
Skiing and ice skating are popular winter sports in Prague, and most skiing hills are close enough for a one-day outing. Indoor and outdoor skating rinks are open to the public. Prague inhabitants also enjoy their natural surroundings by hunting, hiking, fishing, and camping, while water sports are enjoyed on the many lakes. There are three golf courses, Marianske Lazne, Lisnice, and Karlovy Vary. Tennis has become very popular because of Czech greats Martina Navratilova, Ivan Lendl, and Jana Novotna. Soccer, hockey, volleyball, and basketball are also played in Prague. 16
Parks and Recreation
Some of the most relaxing places to go in and near Prague are the spas and mineral springs whose waters boast medicinal properties. The well-known ones are Karlovy Vary spa, which is said to help disorders of the digestive system and which hosts the International Film Festival; Janske Lazne, which treats nervous diseases; and Luhacovice which offers unspecified treatment for the whole body. At Marianske Lazne, one can stroll through gardens, drink from the hot springs, walk in the nearby
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Most of Prague, including this old Jewish cemetery, survived World War II. (Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp)
woods with waterfalls, and view the gorgeous architecture. Other places to go are the Prague Zoo, Botanical Gardens (among the finest in Europe), Prague Castle, and the famous steeplechase at Pardubice. Walking through the city to see the historical sites and municipal parks is a recreational activity as well. There are 147 castles and mansions and 41 protected urban reservations in the Czech Republic. Most of Prague survived World War II relatively intact, so
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Prague its palaces and churches from the Renaissance (1450–1600) and Baroque (1600–1750) periods still stand as they have for centuries. 17
Performing Arts
The National Theater company, also producer of the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra (c. 1896), offers three types of ensemble: opera, ballet, and drama. These companies alternate performances at the National Theater, Theater of the Estates (Stavovske divadlo, which premiered Mozart’s Don Giovanni and the Clemency of Titus), and Kolowrat Theater, performing both classical and contemporary pieces. The Theater of the Estates is one of the only eighteenth-century theaters still in existence in Bohemia. The State Opera (c. 1783) has boasted such famous conductors as Maria von Weber, Gustav Mahler, and Carl Muck. The Spring International Music Festival holds a world-class competition in May. Smaller but still well-known theaters include Archa, Celetna Theater, Cerne Divaldo Jiriho Srnce, Labyrinth, Laterna Magika, Original Music Theater Prague, Theater Ta Fantastika, and Theater Image. Many perform in English and often provide experimental “Black Theater,” combining dance, music, and pantomime to tell a story. There are also marionette shows for children. 18
Libraries and Museums
The Prague National Library is one of the largest and best libraries in the
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world. Established in 1958, it is an amalgamation of six Prague libraries and holds a collection of Mozart’s papers and manuscripts. The National Museum of Prague holds permanent exhibitions on the prehistory of Bohemia, Moravia, Slovakia, Minerology and Petrology, Paleontology, Zoology, and Anthropology. Lubkowitz’s Palace, located at Prague Castle, is open to the public for a nominal fee. Naprstek’s Museum contains pieces from Australian and Oceanic Cultures, Indian Cultures of North and South America, and Asian Cultures. At Tyrs’s Museum of Physical Culture and Sport, the history of the Sokol physical education movement (1862–1992) is documented. There is also a Museum of Czech History and literature, as well as the fascinating Prague Wax Museum, featuring Prague’s celebrities through history. Many galleries and castles are closed on Mondays, and the National Museum is closed the first Tuesday of each month. 19
To u r i s m
There are many housing options for the holiday traveler visiting Prague, including hotels which are more expensive near the center of town, but which are closer to the major sights. Bed-andbreakfast inns offer a glimpse into the private lives of Czech citizens, as do private homes that rent rooms, but apartments near the city center afford more privacy. For the more adventurous, Youth Hostels are available in Prague, but there are very few. Camping sites are very cheap, and "Botels" float on the Vltava River not far from the city cen-
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Prague ter. As for the food, Czech cuisine is a bit fattening, consisting mostly of meat and potatoes. The most popular dishes are roast pork, sauerkraut and dumplings, and goulash, usually accompanied by a hearty Czech beer, like Pilsner Urquell or Budweiser Budvar. If visitors are lucky enough to be invited into a Prague native’s home for a meal, the hospitality should be overwhelming and the food more than ample. 20
Holidays and Festivals
APRIL Paleni Crodejnic (the Burning of the Witches)
MAY The Spring International Music Festival Labor Day
JULY
The Astrological Clock is found in Old Town square, the center of Prague. (Bernard Boutrit; Woodfin Camp)
Celebration of the arrival of Saints Cyril and Methodius (Byzantine priests who brought Christianity to Prague) Anniversary of Jan Hus’s death
OCTOBER Czech Independence Day
NOVEMBER Commemoration of the Velvet Revolution
DECEMBER St. Nicholas Day St. Stephen’s Day
Vaclav Havel (b. 1936), dramatist, statesman, and president. Jaroslav Heyrovsky (1890–1967), chemist and Nobel Prize laureate for polarography. Jan Hus (c. 1369–1415), religious reformer. Franz Kafka (1883–1924), writer.
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Famous Citizens
Eduard Benes (1884–1948), statesman. Karel Capek (1890–1938), author. John Amos Comenius (1592–1670), educational reformer and theologian. Antonin Dvorak (1841–1904), composer.
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Ivan Klima (b. 1931), author. Oskar Kokoschka (1886–1980), artist and writer. Milan Kundera (b. 1929), writer. Thomas Garrique Masar yk (1850– 1937), founder-president of Czechoslovakia.
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Prague 22
For Further Study
Websites Office of the Government of the Czech Republic. [Online] Available http:// www.vlada.cz.index.eng.htm (accessed January 7, 2000). Official site of the Czech Republic. [Online] Available http://www.czech.cz (accessed January 7, 2000). Prague cybercafe. [Online] Available http:// www.cyberteria.cz (accessed January 7, 2000). Prague Post. [Online] Available http:// www.praguepost.cz (accessed January 7, 2000).
Government Offices Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Czech Republic Consular Department 125 10 Prague 1 tel.: (12) 2418 2125 fax: (12) 2431 0018 U.S. Embassy Trziste 15 Mala Strana tel.: (12) 2451-0847)
Tourist and Convention Bureaus CKM: Zitna (Student Travelers) Tel.: (12) 2491-5767 Fax: (12) 2435-1297
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Prague Informtion Service (in Czech only) Staromestske nam 22, Napikoke 20er Betlemske nanesti 2 Tel.: (12) 264022 e-mail:
[email protected]. Ticketpro Salvatorska 10 110 000 Praha 1 Tel.: (12) 2481-4020 Fax: (12) 2481-4021 e-mail:
[email protected].
Publications The Prague Post Tel.: (2487-5016) Fax: (2487-5050) e-mail:
[email protected]. What, Where, When Tel.: (691-0905) Fax: (691-1497)
Books The Czech Republic and Economic Transition in Eastern Europe. San Diego, Calif.: University Press. Holy, Ladislav. The Little Czech and the Great Czech Nation: National Identity and the PostCommunist Transformation of Society. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1996. King, John and Richard Nebesky. Lonely Planet Prague. Hawthorne, Aus.: Lonely Planet, 1999. Skalnik, Carol. The Czech Republic and the Slovak Republic: Nation vs. State. Boulder, Colo.: Westview Press, 1997.
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Rio de Janeiro Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, South America Founded: Spanish navigator Vicente Yáñez Pinzón is credited with being the first known European to sight Brazil when he landed near present-day Recife on January 26, 1500. The Portuguese Estácio de Sá founded the city in 1565 after expelling the French. Location: On a flat and narrow coastal plain, between the foothills of the Brazilian Highlands and the Atlantic Ocean, on the shore of Guanabara Bay, in the state of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, the tropical zone in South America. Time Zone: 3 PM = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: African, White, Portuguese, Spanish, and Italian Latitude and Longitude: 22º54'S, 43º10'W Coastline: 78 km (50 mi) Climate: Rio is in a tropical zone, and the weather is typically hot and humid. Cool ocean breezes temper the temperatures in the area. Temperature: Summer months of December to March are very hot, with temperatures sometimes exceeding 35 to 39ºC (95 to 100ºF). During the rest of the year, temperatures range between 20 to 30ºC (68 and 86ºF). The annual average temperature is 23ºC (73ºF). Average Annual Precipitation: 1,080 mm (43 in), but some of the higher elevations get more than 60 inches. Government: Mayor and municipal council Weights and Measures: Standard metric Monetary Units: the Real (about 1.78 per one US dollar) Telephone Area Codes: Country code: 55; city code: 21
1
Introduction
Rio de Janeiro, the second largest city in Brazil, is often called Cidade Maravilhosa, the Marvelous City. Squeezed by the Atlantic Ocean and the verdant hills of Brazil, Rio’s dramatic natural setting has impressed visitors for decades. The energy of its residents is legendary. No one dances more exquisitely or parties longer than the cariocas (residents of Rio). Even within
Brazil, cariocas are known as fun, sensual, and easygoing. Their main playgrounds are the beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema, names that easily roll off the tongue. Yet, Rio is a great city of extremes, often cruel in its indifference to the poor. Next to five-star hotels, the poorest cariocas live in cardboard houses. The great favelas, shantytowns, reach high into the hills, where many residents are lost to poverty, drug abuse, and a life of crime. In the early 1990s,
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Rio de Janeiro
Rio de Janeiro Population Profile City Proper Population: 5,600,000 Area: 1,255 sq km (485 sq mi) Ethnic composition: African, White, Portuguese, Spanish, and Italian Nicknames: Rio de Janeiro is Portuguese for “river of January.” They thought the large entrance of what is now known as Guanabara Bay was the mouth of a river. In Brazil, Rio is known as the Cidade Maravilhosa, the Marvelous City. Its residents are called cariocas. The word is of Tupi Indian origin (kari'oka, white house or house of white man).
Metropolitan Area Population: 10,556,000 Description: City of Rio and 16 other municipalities Area: Over 5,384 sq km (over 2,079 sq mi) World population rank1: 19 Percentage of national population2: 6.2% Average yearly growth rate: 0.7% Ethnic composition: African, White, Portuguese, Spanish, and Italian ——— 1. The Rio de Janeiro metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of Brazil’s total population living in the Rio de Janeiro metropolitan area.
cariocas were shaken from their complacency to social problems when the media reported that corrupt police officers—paid by business owners— were murdering homeless children. The city lost its luster, as well as many of its tourists. In one of the most famous incidents, roaming bands of youths from the favelas descended on Copacabana Beach, robbing tourists and cariocas alike. Cidade Maravilhosa (marvelous city)? Perhaps only in geography. Yet, cariocas no longer appear complacent about their problems. The city is slowly
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trying to regain its streets from criminals and years of decay. Many favelas now have basic city services. Its social problems are daunting, but cariocas have an uncharacteristic optimism. 2
Getting There
Between the mountains and the sea, Rio is located on the western shore of Guanabara Bay. On a flat and narrow coastal plain adjacent to the foothills of the Brazilian Highlands, Rio is one of the most important transportation hubs in the country. Most international visitors arrive in Rio, one of the bestknown international cities in the world. Highways Rio’s imposing natural setting has its drawbacks. The city snakes along the coast and the mountains, and so do its streets. Cariocas are well known for aggressive driving, and navigating the city's roads is difficult for drivers unfamiliar with the terrain. Rio is connected by highway to major Brazilian cities. Bus and Railroad Service There is rail service to São Paulo and Belo Horizonte. Many bus companies offer international travel to the neighboring countries of Paraguay, Uruguay, and Argentina. Airports Two airports serve the city: Galeão for domestic and international services and Santos Dumont for domestic airlines.
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Rio de Janeiro
3
Getting Around
Bus and Commuter Rail Service Rio opened the first of two underground metro lines in 1979 and plans to continue expanding the system to alleviate traffic congestion. Two lines connect some parts of the city. An extensive bus system accounts for about 70 percent of all passenger trips. There
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are many taxis and thousands of private automobiles. Rail connects Rio to its suburbs and satellite cities. Motorboats, ferries, and hydrofoils serve communities across Guanabara Bay. Sightseeing Many visitors go to Rio strictly to enjoy the world-renowned beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema. Others go to
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Rio de Janeiro take part in the internationally famous Carnival and Carnival parade, celebrated for five days preceding Ash Wednesday (the first day of Lent), attracting thousands of visitors. However, there are many other sights to see in the Marvelous City. One of the most visited sites in Rio is Mount Corcovado, with its Christ the Redeemer statue. Another is Sugar Loaf, offering an impressive view of the city below. Many people go to the Quinta da Boa Vista, the park that is home to the National Museum, and the Zoological Garden. Also popular are the Botanical Gardens and Tijuca National Park, located in the Forest of Tijuca; the National Museum of Fine Arts; the Museum of Modern Art; and the Indian Museum. 4
People
During most of the twentieth century, Rio de Janeiro grew rapidly, mostly with Brazilian migrants from the states of Rio de Janeiro, Minas Gerais, and Espírito Santo. Growth began to level off in 1960 when Rio lost its status as the nation's capital. About two-thirds of Rio's residents are of African descent, a reflection of the nation's early history when millions of African slaves were brought to the New World to work on plantations. By the mid-1800s, there were two-and-a-half million slaves in Brazil. Like the nation, Rio is ethnically diverse, with widespread racial mixing. Many of the city's residents are of Portuguese, Italian, and Spanish roots.
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While the country prides itself on its racial harmony and tolerance, racial issues are much more complicated. In Rio, and Brazilian society in general, whites are better off economically and enjoy more privilege. In something as simple as television programming and advertising, blacks and native Brazilians are greatly outnumbered. In Rio, mostly whites live in the wealthier enclaves of Copacabana, Ipanema, and Leblon, while mostly blacks live in the favelas that surround the city. Although separated by class and race, Brazilians have many things in common. The dominant language is Portuguese. Most are Catholic, although many follow Afro-Brazilian religions like Umbanda and Condomble. All races dance to the same beat of the samba and other Afro-Brazilian sounds. The beach, especially in Rio, is the great equalizer. Here, where just about everybody wears skimpy swimsuits, it is difficult to pinpoint the elite from the poor masses. 5
Neighborhoods
Geography and class define Rio's neighborhoods. The rich live close to the water. The great masses of poor people have been pushed high into the hills. There, the poor have built favelas, shantytowns that lack basic necessities like water, electricity, and paved roads. Cariocas have also redefined their space periodically. As the city grew over difficult terrain, they leveled hills or bored tunnels through them. They reclaimed
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Rio de Janeiro
City Fact Comparison Rio de Janeiro (Brazil)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
10,556,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1565
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$142
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$62
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$15
$14
$15
$16
$219
$173
$246
$207
16
13
20
11
Largest newspaper
O Globo
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
Circulation of largest newspaper
266,546
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1925
1944
1976
1948
Total daily costs Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city
Date largest newspaper was established 1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
parts of Guanabara Bay to make room for the growing city. Today, Rio is divided into three distinct zones. The traditional historical center is sandwiched by the eastern base of the Serra de Carioca and Guanabara Bay. The Serra is a small coastal mountain range that runs east-west and cuts the city in half. West and north of the historic center is the northern zone, a large urban area of mostly lowincome housing, and factories. The southern zone, with the fashionable Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon, and Gávea neighborhoods, is home to middle-class and wealthy cariocas. As the
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favelas inched closer down the slopes, many wealthy people abandoned the southern-zone neighborhoods. Copacabana, Leblon, and Ipanema experienced slight population decreases in the last decade of the twentieth century. Many wealthier residents have moved to Barra da Tijuca, further west along the coast. It is considered one of the city's most fashionable neighborhoods. Many of the favelas have become established neighborhoods with basic city services. From 1991 to 1996, the number of households in the city increased from 1.6 million to 1.7 mil-
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Rio de Janeiro
Situated between the Brazilian Highlands and the Atlantic Ocean, Rio attracts travelers from all over the world. (Stephanie Maze; Woodfin Camp)
lion. The occupancy rate went down, from 3.4 people per household to 3.3. 6
History
Long before Europeans arrived in what is now Brazil, the area was populated by many different groups of native people, including the Arawak and Carib. The Spanish navigator Vicente Yáñez Pinzón (c.1460–c.1524) is credited with being the first known European to sight Brazil when he landed near present-day Recife on January 26, 1500.
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The Spaniards didn’t make a claim to the territory as it was assigned to Portugal under the Treaty of Tordesillas (1494). Under papal authority, the agreement divided the New World between Spain and Portugal. In theory, the other European countries were not allowed to colonize the New World. In April 1500, apparently blown off course, Portuguese navigator Pedro Alvarez Cabral (c.1467–c.1520) reached Brazil and formally claimed the area for Portugal. Explorers sighted what is now Rio in 1502, but the Portuguese didn’t build any permanent settlements. By
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Rio de Janeiro 1530, with other European nations eager to establish a foothold in the New World, the Portuguese monarchy strengthened its hold on Brazil, dividing the territory into 15 captaincies (administrative districts), each under the jurisdiction of powerful members of the court. If it hadn’t been for French interlopers, Rio may have never developed as a city. Salvador and Sao Paulo were founded several years before the Portuguese took any interest in the Rio area. While the Portuguese frantically built forts to keep other countries at bay, the French began to test Brazil’s defenses. French traders were after the valuable brazil wood, for which the country is now named. By the mid-1550s, they founded a settlement on one of the islands of Guanabara Bay and called it La France Antarctique (Antarctic France). Portugal’s monarchy sent Estácio de Sá, a nephew of Governor Mem de Sá of Brazil, to get rid of the French in 1565. For the next two years, the Portuguese and French waged bloody battles in what is now Rio de Janeiro. De Sá was killed during one of the skirmishes, but the French were finally ousted from the area in 1567. By 1568, Rio had begun to take formal shape with the construction of a citadel. As in many other early colonies, Rio survived by farming, especially sugarcane. By 1660, Rio had attained some degree of importance and was named the seat of government for the southern captaincies. About 8,000 people—mostly Indian and black slaves who were forced to
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work in the plantations—lived in the city. The discovery of gold, diamonds, silver, and other precious minerals in what is now the state of Minas Gerais (general mines), northwest of Rio, boosted the city’s fortunes during the 1700s. The Portuguese moved their capital city from Salvador to Rio in 1763, a symbol of its growing importance. Rio grew rapidly, with thousands of European immigrants attracted by diamonds and gold. By the late 1700s, Rio expanded beyond its protective walls. Rio’s growth faltered a bit by the 1790s. Dependent on an export economy, the city was facing formidable competition for its sugar from other colonies in the Americas, and the mines were showing signs of declining production. In just a few years, the value of exports shipped through Rio’s port was cut in half. Yet, Rio would not stay down for too long. During the Napoleonic wars (1799– 1815), Portugal remained faithful to England, earning France's scorn. Napoleon Bonaparte’s troops invaded Portugal. Maria I (r. 1777–1816) and her son, the future João VI, escaped to Brazil and established a government in exile in Rio de Janeiro in 1808. Outside the city, coffee production had replaced sugar as a main crop, and Rio was again on its way to economic recovery. With the monarchs in town, Rio reinvented itself, growing in population and in beauty. Older buildings were restored; hundreds of new mansions and smaller living quarters were built; streets were
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Rio de Janeiro paved and lighted. More land was reclaimed. The monarchs established the Royal Press, the Royal Library, and the Botanical Gardens, among many others. In 1808, the city's first newspaper was published. With the death of Maria I, who had been insane for the last 24 years of her life, her son João VI (r. 1816–1826) became king. João was initially popular in Rio and the rest of Brazil. Some Cariocas, perhaps sensing his importance to the city, did not want him to return to Portugal, where liberals demanded an end to the monarchy. Under growing political pressure, João accepted greatly diminished powers and returned to rule Portugal in 1821. His son, Pedro I (1798–1834; r. 1822–31), stayed in Brazil. Portugal attempted to reassert its authority over Brazil. But with British aid, Pedro declared Brazil’s independence and became emperor in 1822. By now, Rio had grown to more than 100,000 people. Pedro ruled until 1831 when he abdicated in favor of Pedro II (1825–1891), the five-year-old heirapparent. By 1840, Pedro II was old enough to rule and was named emperor. Under his leadership, Brazil continued to thrive with coffee, sugar, cotton, and rubber exports. Pedro II's administration oversaw the continued modernization of Rio. Rail, gas lighting, telephone, and steamboat service to other cities were all in place by the 1870s. However, Pedro would not last. He was against slavery and abolished it in 1888. The move cost him. He was overthrown in 1889, and a republic replaced the monarchy. Rio, which
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already had more than 500,000 residents, was named the capital of the republic. During the early years of the republic, Rio de Janeiro changed dramatically. The federal government set out to modernize the city, first bringing tropical diseases like yellow fever under control. By 1920, the city was becoming an important industrial center with a population that exceeded one million people. The city grew by reclaiming land from Guanabara Bay and leveling hills. By 1940, Rio had grown to nearly two million people with no signs of slowing down. By then, the government could no longer control growth. Skyscrapers and large apartment buildings replaced homes and small buildings. Poorer residents were pushed further into the fringes of the city. Rio was now under siege from national interests. Many of Brazil’s politicians wanted to develop the vast interior of the country. In 1957, Brazilians began to build the city of Brazilia, which replaced Rio as the national capital in 1960. Yet Rio remained an important center of politics, culture, and business. By the 1960s, the beachside residential areas of Copacabana and Ipanema were among the most desirable addresses in the world. Its importance would in time turn against the city. Because it offered so many more opportunities than other cities and towns, Rio continued to grow as Brazilians without jobs or education continued to move into the city. They built massive favelas (shantytowns) and contributed to massive social problems that continue to affect the city. Rio is
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Rio de Janeiro no longer growing through massive immigration, but serious urban problems, like crime, overcrowding, and pollution, continue to plague the city. 7
Government
The city is governed by a prefeito (mayor). The government is divided into several departments, each administered by a secretary who answers to the mayor, who is elected to a four-year term. The Municipal Chamber, whose members are elected proportionally from Rio's 24 administrative regions, dictates legislation. The city is divided into five planning areas and 158 neighborhoods. 8
Public Safety
In February 2000, Brazilian President Fernando Henrique Cardoso called for immediate action to curb crime after his wife's car was stolen. His presidential car had been stolen three months earlier. Compared to the atrocious public safety situation in Brazil, the theft of these cars was minor but symbolic of how crime touches all people throughout the country. In the 1990s, crime gangs controlled entire Rio neighborhoods. Corrupt police officers, hired by business owners, murdered homeless children and engaged in other criminal activity. By 1994, Rio had one of the highest murder rates in the world, at 61 per 100,000 people. While most crimes were directed at cariocas, tourists also suffered. The city saw a steady decline in the number of international visitors
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Tourism plays a large role in Rio’s economy. Celebrations and parades bring millions of tourists annually. (Stephanie Maze; Woodfin Camp)
in the 1980s and early 1990s, deterred by highly publicized crimes against tourists. Rio authorities created a special police force to protect tourists and have tried to underplay the crime situation. Whether Cardoso’s call for action will bring any changes remains to be seen. One of Brazil’s largest problems is the unrelenting poverty of its people, which is only augmented in cities like Rio, where shantytowns are built next to wealthy enclaves.
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Rio de Janeiro 9
Economy
Only São Paulo is more economically important than Rio de Janeiro in Brazil. With a major port and international airport, Rio is an important industrial, financial, and commercial center. The city has a large tourism industry that appears to be bouncing back after years of decline. Rio remains the economic engine for a large regional area that extends for several hundred kilometers (miles). Rio’s factories produce processed foods, textiles, furniture, chemicals, petroleum products, pharmaceuticals, and metal products. The manufacture of electronics and computers has begun to play a major role in the economy. The city is a leading financial and banking center. The country’s most active stock market, the Bolsa da Valores do Brasil, is located in Rio. 10
Environment
Guanabara Bay is highly polluted. Throughout the year, many of Rio's beaches, including the internationally known beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana, are off limits to swimmers because of high levels of fecal coliform bacteria. Poor sanitation in the favelas lead to the proliferation of many diseases. 11
Shopping
Rio is an important retail center. It has major shopping centers and countless small shops that specialize in different products. There are many street
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vendors. In Copacabana and Ipanema, street vendors sell men’s and women’s swim suits, towels, sunglasses, and just about anything needed on the beach. Some small boutiques specialize in native art from throughout Brazil. 12
Education
Brazil was expected to enter the twenty-first century with an illiteracy rate of 16 percent despite massive efforts to educate the population. About 25 percent of the poorest children do not attend school. In Rio, those numbers are better, with literacy rates at about 90 percent for people over ten years of age. Yet, many children in the favelas do not go to school, and thousands of homeless children lack any opportunity to better their lives. In Rio, there are 1,033 primary schools with 25,594 teachers and 667,788 students (1995). There are 370 secondary schools with 9,699 teachers and 227,892 students. There are 53 college preparatory schools with 14,864 teachers and 154,447 students. The city has six major universities and 47 private schools of higher learning. The Federal University of Rio de Janeiro and the Pontifical Catholic University of Rio de Janeiro, which offer graduate courses, and the State University of Rio de Janeiro are located in the city. 13
Health Care
The city has made major improvements in health, dramatically reducing high infant mortality rates in a short number of years, from 75.3 to 36 deaths
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Rio de Janeiro per 1,000 births between 1980 and 1987. The overall life expectancy has also increased, from 45 to 63 years between 1940 and 1980. Mortality rates have decreased by improving sanitary conditions throughout the city. Yet, some of those gains have been offset by increases in violence and accidents. There are more than 300 hospitals with 25,872 beds in metropolitan Rio. 14
Media
Rio remains one of the most important publishing centers in Brazil. The country’s first newspaper, Gazeta do Rio de Janeiro, was published in Rio on September 10, 1808. Two of the country's leading newspapers today, O Globo and Jornal do Brazil, are published in Rio. Several daily and weekly newspapers, including the business daily Jornal do Commercio, are also published in the city. There are seven television stations and numerous AM and FM radio stations. 15
Sports
Capable of holding 200,000 people, Maracanã stadium is a symbol of Rio’s passion for sports. There are more than 130 sports associations in the city, several professional teams, and thousands of cariocas playing soccer, volleyball, and many other sports on any given day. Rio is host to several international events each year in surfing, beach volleyball, car, motorcycle, and horse racing. On weekends, the sprawling Copacabana beach is crowded with teams
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playing soccer on the sand. Brazilians are passionate about volleyball. The women’s national team won the gold medal in the Barcelona Olympics in 1988. Cariocas have even managed to combine their passion for soccer and volleyball into one game—futevolei. It is played on the sand with players kicking the ball over the net instead of using their hands. 16
Parks and Recreation
With more than 78 kilometers (48 miles) of coastline and 72 beaches, playing in the sand and water are among the most important recreational activities in Rio. The city has 33 parks and three natural reserves. It has 20 areas classified under environmental protection, ten permanent preservation areas, and three areas of ecological interest. Samba schools are a popular source of recreation, especially in the favelas. The schools act as neighborhood clubs where residents come to meet each other, learn how to dance, and work together. 17
Performing Arts
Rio is an important center for the arts. The city is home to the Companhia de Balé Clássico do Teatro Municipal, the ballet company, and the Orquestra Sinfônica Brasileira, the symphony orchestra. The nationally renowned School of Music is part of the Federal University of Rio de Janeiro. The Municipal Theater hosts ballet and operas. There are
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Rio de Janeiro
Christ the Redeemer stands atop Mount Corcovado, the most visited site in Rio de Janeiro. (Stephanie Maze; Woodfin Camp)
many theater groups in the city and dozens of cultural centers. Rio hosts many musical events, including jazz, dance, and cinema festivals. Rio has more than 60 art galleries, 75 bookstores and libraries, and dozens of cinemas, clubs and dance halls. 18
Libraries and Museums
The city’s National Library was founded in 1810 to house the remains of the Royal Library of Ajuda, brought to Brazil from Portugal after the 1755
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earthquake in Lisbon. There are many other libraries in the city. Despite losing its title as capital city, Rio remained a center of culture after 1960. The Brazilian Academy of Letters and the Brazilian Academy of Sciences are in the city. The National Museum of Fine Arts was founded in 1818 and houses important twentiethcentury works by leading Brazilian artists. The National Museum has a large collection of pre-Columbian ceramics, dinosaur fossils, and stuffed wildlife. Rio also hosts the National Historical
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Rio de Janeiro Museum, the Museum of Modern Art, and the Indian Museum. 19
To u r i s m
International arrivals increased from 8.3 million passengers in 1994 to 10.3 million in 1998 at Rio’s international airport. Domestic arrivals rose from 34.7 million to 63.7 million. Visitors come to the Cidade Maravilhosa for its beaches, restaurants, music, exhilarating city life, and the annual Carnival, one of the world's most famous festivals.
ited site is Sugar Loaf, which reaches a height of 395 meters (1,296 feet). At the entrance of Guanabara Bay, Sugar Loaf is only reachable by cable car. It offers impressive views of the city below. Many people go to the Quinta da Boa Vista, a park that is home to the National Museum, and the Zoological Garden. The historic Botanical Gardens (1808) and the Tijuca National Park are located in the Forest of Tijuca. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY
Celebrated for five days preceding Ash Wednesday, Carnival attracts thousands of visitors. While it is a national holiday, Carnival is often associated with Rio, which is consistently more exuberant than its neighbors. It is there that the major Carnival parade is held. Samba schools from the favelas and other Rio neighborhoods practice for months to prepare for the festival. On the night of December 31, Copacabana hosts hundreds of thousands of people who come to celebrate the New Year. According to tradition, people dress in white for good luck and offer a white flower to Yemanjá, the goddess of the seas. Residents party well into the morning hours. One of the most visited sites in Rio is Mount Corcovado, 704 meters (2,310 feet) high. On top, is Christ the Redeemer, a massive 907-metric-ton (1,000-ton), 30-meter (98-foot) statue standing with welcoming outstretched arms over Rio. Another frequently vis-
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Epiphany
FEBRUARY-MARCH Carnival (five days before Ash Wednesday)
APRIL Tiradentes Day
MAY May Day
JUNE Corpus Christi
SEPTEMBER Independence Day
OCTOBER Our Lady of Aparecida Day
NOVEMBER
All Soul’s Day Proclamation Day
21
Famous Citizens
Olavo Bilac (1865–1918), Brazilian poet. Fernando Affonso Collor de Mello (b. 1949), became Brazil’s youngest president in 1990, with his promise to cut inflation and reform the economy, but was impeached in
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Rio de Janeiro 1992 by the Chamber of Deputies on charges of corruption. Afonso Henriques de Lima Barreto (1881–1922), novelist and journalist. Antonio Carlos Jobim (1927–94), composer, guitarist, and pianist, who pioneered the musical style known as bossa nova (new wave). Joaquim Maria Machado de Assis (1839–1908), great master of Brazilian literature.
Government Offices Embassy of Brazil 3006 Massachusetts Ave. NW Washington, D.C. 20008 Government of Rio de Janeiro. [Online] Available http://www.rio.rj.gov.br (accessed February 5, 2000).
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Ministry of Sport and Tourism. [Online] Available http://www.embratur.gov.br (accessed February 5, 2000).
Publications O
Oscar Niemeyer Soares Filho (b. 1907), one of Brazil's most important modern architects, known for the fluid lines of his buildings. Heitor Villa-Lobos (1887–1959), important twentieth-century composer, self-trained and influenced by the music of Native American people, credited with revolutionizing musical training in public schools. 22
For Further Study
Websites Brazilian Institute of Geography and Statistics. [Online] Available http://www.ibge.gov.br (accessed February 5, 2000). Rio de Janeiro Modern Museum of Art. [Online] Available http://www.mamrio.com.br (accessed February 5, 2000). University of Texas Latin American Network Information Center. [Online] Available http:// www.lanic.utexas.edu (accessed February 5, 2000).
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Globo. [Online] Available http:// www.oglobo.com.br (accessed February 5, 2000). Jornal do Brazil. [Online] Available http:// www.jb.com.br (accessed February 5, 2000). Jornal do Commercio. [Online] Available http:// www.jornaldocommercio.com.br (accessed February 5, 2000).
Books Burns, E. Bradford. A History of Brazil. New York: Columbia University Press, 1993. Fausto, Boris. A Concise History of Brazil. London: Cambridge University Press, 1999. Gay, Robert. Popular Organization and Democracy in Rio de Janeiro: A Tale of Two Favelas. Philadelphia: Temple University Press, 1994. Levine, Robert M., and John C. Crocitti. The Brazil Reader. Raleigh: Duke University Press, 1999. McGowan, Chris, and Ricardo Pessanha. The Brazilian Sound: Samba, Bossa Nova, and the Popular Music of Brazil. Philadelphia: Temple University Press, 1997. Rojas-Lombardi, Felipe. The Traveler’s Guide to Latin American Customs and Manners. New York: St. Martins Press, 1991. Skidmore, Thomas E. Brazil: Five Centuries of Change. New York and Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1999.
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Rome Rome, Italy, Europe Founded: 753 B.C.; Unified: 1870 Location: Lazio region in Italy, Europe, on a peninsula extending from southern Europe into the Mediterranean Sea, bordering France to the northwest, Switzerland and Austria to the north, Slovenia to the northeast, and the Mediterranean Sea to the south Time Zone: 11 AM = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Flag: Vertical bands of orange (left) and yellow. Ethnic Composition: Italian; German, French, Slovenes, Albanian-Italians, GreekItalians Elevation: 4,336 m (14,453 ft) above sea level Latitude and Longitude: 41°54’N, 12°30’E Climate: Temperate, mild winters and long, dry, hot summers Annual Mean Temperature: 7.4°C (45.3°F) in January; 25.7°C (78.3°F) in July Average Annual Rainfall: 890 mm (35 in) Government: Multi-party republic, headed by a president and prime minister, legislative power held by bicameral Parliament: Senate and Chamber of Deputies Weights and Measures: Metric Monetary Units: The euro (EUR). As of January 1, 1999, the lira became a subdivision of the Euro (conversion rate: 1,936.27 lira to one Euro; one Euro equals 100 cents.) Telephone Area Codes: Italy country code 39; Rome city code 6
1
Introduction
Near the banks of the Tiber River, 2,700 years ago on seven hills, the foundation of Rome was laid. It is one of the most ancient cities in Europe. Since then, it has been continuously inhabited and has grown into a city of almost three million people, covering 1,502 square kilometers (580 square miles). Rome is in southern Italy, in southern Europe, and has a parallel latitude with New York state.
Located inland about 27 kilometers (17 miles) from the Tyrrhenian Sea, Rome is the capital city of Italy. Within Rome’s enclave is Vatican City. The seat of the papacy of the Roman Catholic Church, Vatican City has been recognized as an independent state by the Italian government since 1929. The majestic dome of St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City dominates the Roman skyline. Once the center of the Roman Empire, Rome has been the capital of united Italy since 1871. The economy remains strong—essentially based on
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Rome
Rome Population Profile Population: 2,688,000 Area: 1502 sq km (580 sq mi) World population rank1: 115 Percentage of national population2: 4.7% Average yearly growth rate: 0.0% ——— 1. The Rome metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of Italy’s total population living in the Rome metropolitan area.
tourism and government operations. After World War II (1939–45), the city developed a wide base of industries; thus, the Rome of today hosts the headquarters of many multinational corporations and agencies. Divided into two regions, the sprawling outer city is changing with suburban growth. The historical center is a small area, located on the eastern bank of the Tiber River and contains many monuments of Rome’s past greatness. The city is an unparalleled repository of monuments from all periods in European history. The legacy of the Roman Empire is extensive, witnessed from the preservation of the Pantheon, considered one of the finest surviving temples of antiquity, to the impressive Colosseum, an amphitheater that hosted gladiatorial combat and other spectacles. Ancient city walls, triumphal arches, public meeting places, churches, and palaces are scattered throughout Rome. With an extraordi-
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nary wealth of artwork, Rome is a major world center for creative study and performing arts. 2
Getting There
Italy is bound to the north by Switzerland and Austria, to the east by Slovenia and the Adriatic Sea, to the south by the Mediterranean, Tyrrhenian, and Ligurian seas, and to the west by France. It covers 301,308 square kilometers (116,335 square miles), and Rome is located about halfway down Italy’s western coast. Highways Driving to and around Rome can be challenging. The main road linking Rome to the north and south of Italy is the Autostrade del sole, which connects with the ring road circling the city. The 13-kilometer (8-mile) Mount Frejus highway tunnel, integrating France and Italy through the Alps, opened in l980. The legal age for an auto rental is 21 years of age. There are several rental car agencies at both airports and a few at Termini Stazione. Bus and Railroad Service Train is by far the most efficient means of transportation for any land journey within Italy, to or from Rome. The Italian State Railways have several levels of service, from local trains that stop at every station, to the Pendolino, a fast, luxurious first-class-only train. From the airport, the Stazione Termini direct train runs hourly. The Stazione Termini, Rome’s main train station, is
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Rome
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Rome the hub of the urban transportation system. Beneath it is the only interchange between the city’s two Metro lines, and directly outside, on Piazza dei Cinquecento, is the central bus terminal, a stunning twentieth-century building. Buses run from 6:00 AM to midnight, with some services running throughout the night. The city’s Metro service has two lines, and both go through Termini. A bus ticket is also valid for the city’s subway and train services. Airports Rome is serviced by two international airports. Leonardo da Vinci, commonly known as Fiumicino, handles most scheduled flights and is about 29 kilometers (18 miles) southwest of the city. Ciampino is about 14 kilometer (nine miles) southeast and is used for charter flights. The national airline carrier Alitalia is 89.3 percent owned by the state. 3
Getting Around
Navigating the streets of Rome can be tricky. Often it is easiest to take advantage of the city’s public transportation. Tickets for city metros, buses, and trams must be purchased before boarding. Bus and Commuter Rail Service The Metro system is useful and simple to master. There are two lines, A and B, which cross at Termini. Metro trains run approximately every ten minutes, from 5:30 AM until 11:30 PM,
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12:30 AM on Saturday. Tickets for metros are valid for one single journey only. Daily and weekly travel passes are also available. For sightseers, favorite metro stops include the Spanish Steps, Spagna, Vatican Museums, Ottaviano, Colosseo, Circus Maximus, Bath of Caracalls, Circo Massimo, the Catacombs, and Colli Albani. The main bus terminal is outside Termini Stazione. Most day buses have only a driver while night buses usually have a conductor who issues tickets. Tickets are not sold on day buses, and passengers board from the rear. There are several bus lines that run from 5:30 AM until midnight. Night buses run from 1:00 AM until 5:30 AM. Tickets are time stamped and are valid for 90 minutes of travel. Rome’s public orange buses and handful of trams cover much of the city, but they do not travel through the narrow streets of the historic center. Several routes, however, are within a short distance of most main attractions. Communal stops include the Vatican, Spanish Steps, and Trevi Fountain. Official taxis in Rome are yellow and must bear the taxi sign on the roof. An expensive venture, taxis also charge extra for baggage, late night trips, Sunday travel, or public holiday travel. The fare may begin from the telephone request, not from the point of origin. Sightseeing The center of Rome is compact, and wandering the ruins on foot is a great way to see the city. Street life is
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Rome
City Fact Comparison Rome (Italy)
Cairo (Egypt)
New York (United States)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
2,688,000
10,772,000
16,626,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
753 BC
1613
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$172
$193
$198
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$59
$56
$44
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$15
$14
$26
$16
$246
$173
$244
$207
Total daily costs Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
20
13
10
11
La Repubblica
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
The Wall Street Journal
Renmin Ribao
754,930
1,159,339
1,740,450
3,000,000
1976
1944
1889
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
vibrant and constant. The architectural design is consuming, and close proximity of ancient sights make for a comfortable and convenient walk. For instance, the Colosseum is approximately oneand-a-half miles from the Spanish steps. One route travels by the Forum, Piazza Venezia, and several churches, passing through charming neighborhoods. A longer, more scenic route weaves from the Colosseum to the Vatican. Most major monuments are west of the train station. The Pantheon and Trevi Fountain are a short detour away. The Palatine Hill and the Forum are the center of ancient Rome. Via del Corso runs north from the Forum to Piazza del Popola, and Trevi Fountain is to the
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east. The Vatican is northwest of the Forum, across the Tiber River. Small patches of central Rome have sidewalks and streets closed to cars for use by cyclists and scooters. Bike tours from the north to the south of the city are actually a popular way to see the sights of Villa Borghese, Piazza del Popolo, Piazza Venezia, and the Spanish Steps. Conversely, the narrow streets combined with steep hills can make cycling a bit of a challenge. Mopeds and scooters, called Vespa or wasps in Italy because of the buzzing noise they make, are an efficient way to get around the narrow streets. Bikes and
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Rome
The dome of Saint Peter’s Basilica dominates the skyline of Rome. (Mike Yamashita; Woodfin Camp)
mopeds can be rented from Roma Rent and Scoot-a-Long, among others. For a gentler tour of the historic center, sightseers can hire a horsedrawn carriage. Trips can be taken for a half-hour, an hour, half-day, or a day, for up to five people. Prices for longer rides are negotiable and can be hired from Piazza di Spagna, the Coliseum, Trevi Fountain, St. Peter’s, Via Veneto, Villa Borghese, Piazza Venezia, and Piazza Navona. 4
People
Due to improved economic and social conditions in southern regions,
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and the influence of the media, differences between northern and southern Italians are diminishing. However, Italians still refer to one another by their city of origin (Milanese, Roman, Florentine), and some regional attitudes remain. Adopting practices of their German and Austrian neighbors, people in the industrialized north traditionally value punctuality, reliability, organization, and economic success. They view time as a precious resource not to be wasted. Communities take pride in maintaining a low tolerance for public corruption and escalating crime. Southerners tend to be gracious and known for their warm character
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Rome and friendliness. Neighborhoods and citizens of Rome value leisurely days and take their time conducting business. Family values prevail in the south and are often revered over economic success. Regional economic differences have contributed to tensions within the country. Northern Italians feel they are too heavily taxed for subsidized projects in the south. Southerners resent the higher income and better employment opportunities offered only in the north. Political movements that call for regional autonomy in a federal system have gained momentum in the north, but most Romans oppose any political separation. Social life and interaction is important to Romans. Citizens enjoy public events, parties, and celebrations. Humor, reliability, and success in business and social lives are all regarded more favorably than individual assertiveness. The dominant language in Rome and throughout the country is Italian. However, German and Ladin, a dialect of the Rhaeto-Romanic, are spoken in the Alto Adige region on the Austrian border; French is spoken in the Valle d’Aosta region bordering France and Switzerland; and Greek and Albanian are spoken in southern Italy. English is a common second language. 5
Neighborhoods
According to tradition, Rome was founded in 753 B.C. on one of the Seven
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Hills, a term coined to describe the Capitoline, Quirinal, Viminal, Esquiline, Caelian, Aventine, and Palatine hills surrounding the old community. Archaeological evidence indicates, however, that human settlement dates from at least 1000 B.C. Capitoline Hill was long the seat of Rome’s government, and Palantine Hill was the site of the epic Palace of the Flavins, built by the Roman emperor Domitian. As a result of construction throughout the centuries, today most of the Seven Hills are hardly distinguishable from the adjacent plain. Rome is easily divided into two regions: the inner city, within the Aurealian Wall, built in the late third century to enclose the area around the Seven Hills; and the sprawling outer city, with its suburbs. The historical center is a small area, located almost entirely on the eastern bank of the Tiber River. Monuments of Rome’s past eminence are located mostly within the historical center and are a stark contrast to the modern districts. The street pattern of the city reflects its long and complex history. The Via del Corso traverses most of the historic center from Piazza Venezia, the geographic center of Rome, to the Piazza del Popolo at the foot of Pincio Hills. Its use dates from the Middle Ages when it was a horse-racing course. 6
History
Of all of Italy’s historic cities, Rome summons the most compelling fascination. There is more to experience in
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Rome
Rome’s streets are often narrow and busy, offering a vibrant city life. Here, a couple dodges the traffic on a moped, an efficient way of getting around town. (Ignacio Lobos; EPD Photos)
Rome than almost any other city in the world, with relics of more than 2,700 years of continuous occupation packed into a sprawling urban area. As a contemporary European capital, Rome has a unique sense of leadership. The city features are classical, the Colosseum, the Forum, and Palantine Hill, while relics from the early Christian period decorate ancient basilicas. The Baroque and Romanesque fountains and churches are only part of the picture. First headquarters of the Roman Empire, and then of the Catholic Church, Rome has had an immense impact on social customs throughout the world. Several European languages
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are based on Latin; many political and legal systems follow the ancient roman model of civil service, and buildings all over the world demonstrate styles and techniques perfected in Rome. The ancient city spaces are filled with layers of buildings spanning two millennia. Rome began as an Iron Age hut village founded in the mid-eighth century B.C. In 616 B.C., the Romans’ neighbors, the Etruscans, seized power but were ousted in 509 B.C. when Rome became a Republic. By the time Rome entered into the first of the three Punic wars in 264 B.C., its power in Italy spanned the whole peninsula as far north as Arimi-
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Rome num. The driving motivation behind all three Punic wars was for Rome to defeat the African city of Carthage and gain Mediterranean dominance. In 241 B.C. the Romans won Sicily. In the Second Punic War (218–201 B.C.), they defeated General Hannibal of Carthage (247–182 B.C.), and in the Third Punic War (149–146 B.C.) they seized the city of Carthage itself. Rome then went on to conquer Syria and Macedonia to gain dominance over the western Hellenistic world. The expansion of the empire provided opportunity for individuals to gain power and rule. However, leaders became abusive of their power, and the clashing of egos led to the crashing of democracy. Julius Caesar (c. 100–44 B.C.) ruled for a time as dictator, but the Roman Republic came to an end when he was assassinated in 44 B.C. Taking his place was the famous triumvirate: Mark Antony (c. 80–30 B.C.), Aemilius Lepidus (d. 13 B.C.), and Octavian Caesar (63 B.C.–A.D. 14). Octavian defeated Lepidus in 39 B.C. and Antony in 31 B.C. to become emperor of the Roman world. He then gave all his power to the Senate in an effort to create a “restored republic.” The Senate placed him in control of nearly all Rome’s military strength, and he was given the title Augustus. Upon Octavian’s death in A.D. 14, his chosen heir, Tiberius (42 B.C.–A.D. 37), took the throne. It was during the reign of Tiberius that Jesus Christ was crucified. Within a few years, the followers of Christ became legendary in Rome, but their teachings were perceived as a threat to public order,
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and many Christians were executed. Even so, the new religion spread through all levels of Roman society. By the time the apostles Peter and Paul had arrived in Rome, a small Christian community had been established, and in spite of persecution by the state, Christianity flourished. Having little success with the Senate, Tiberius withdrew himself from office and was succeeded by a medley of emperors, including Caligula (12–41), Claudius (10 B.C.–A.D. 54), and Nero (37–68). Nero’s suicide in A.D. 68 ended the Augustus reign of emperors, and Rome entered into a state of constant civil war. Sulpicius Galba (3 B.C.–A.D. 69), governor of Spain, seized control, but the throne changed hands four more times. It wasn’t until Diocletian (A.D. 245–313), a traditional militaristic Roman, took control in A.D. 284 that Rome was restored to order. He divided the empire in half and appointed two rulers for both east and west Rome. In A.D. 302, Diocletian banned Christians from the Roman Army, brought religion into the office of emperor, and made the position a “divine monarchy.” In A.D. 313, the Emperor Constantine (c. 274–337; r. 306–337), proclaimed ruler by Britiain, issued an edict granting Christians freedom of worship, and he founded the city of Constantinople as the new capital. Even after securing Rome’s position as the center of Christianity, its political importance waned in the fifth century, and the city fell to Goths and other invaders. For a while, Rome was reduced to a few thousand residents
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Rome and little power. But the next couple centuries uncovered a newfound strength. The growing importance of the papacy revived the city and rejuvenated its power. Conversely, ongoing conflict between the Pope and the Holy Roman Emperor undermined the papacy. The tenth, eleventh, and twelfth centuries were among the bleakest in Roman history: violent conflict with invaders left Rome poverty stricken, and constant warring tore apart the city. In 1309, the papacy moved to Avignon, leaving Rome to slide further into squalor and strife. The city recovered spectacularly in the mid-fifteenth century. Pope Nicholas V (1397–1455; r. 1447–1455) came to power and groomed Rome to be a city worthy of the papacy and the center of Renaissance culture. Successors followed his lead, and the city’s appearance was transformed. The Classical ideals of the Italian Renaissance (1450– 1600) inspired artists, architects, and craftsmen, such as Michelangelo, Bramante, and Raphael. A newly confident Rome was nurturing a massive papal patronage of the arts. By the sixteenth century, the Catholic Church had accumulated extensive wealth and was therefore criticized by other reformed religions. Displays of grandeur and extravagance by the papal court contrasted vividly with the poverty of the people. Galileo (1564–1642), a physicist/astronomer, was condemned to death for heresy (beliefs opposed to the traditionally accepted beliefs of the church). Rome was also
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discovering a new style of its own in Baroque (1600–1750). Under Napoleon, Italy tasted unity but by 1815 was again divided into many small states, and papal rule was restored in Rome. The next 50 years experienced patriots struggling to create an independent, unified Italy, and Rome was briefly declared a Republic, but forces were driven out by French troops. The French continued to protect the Pope while the rest of Italy united as a kingdom under Vittorio Emanuel of Savor. In 1870, troops stormed the city, and Rome became the capital of the newly unified Italy. Twentieth-century Rome endured the dictator Benito Mussolini (1883– 1945; r. 1922–1945) and his dreams of recreating the immense order and power of the Roman Empire. In 1922, the fascist leader was appointed prime minister. In 1929, the Lateran Treaty brought over a century of tension between Church and State to an end by creating a separate Vatican State. During the World War II (1939–45), British forces captured much of Italy’s colonial empire. From 1947 to the early 1990s, Italy had no less than 57 governments, and the first non-Italian pope since the sixteenth century, Pope John Paul II (b. 1920), was appointed in 1978. Rome is in many ways the ideal capital of Italy. Each era in history added its own layer of culture to create a city unparalleled by any other in the world.
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Rome
Vatican City, the seat of the papacy, has been recognized as an independent state by the Italian government since 1929. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
7
Government
The Italian Republic is divided into 20 regions, five of which (Sicily, Sardinia, Trentino-Alto Adige, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, and Valle d’Aosta) enjoy a special status; there is a large degree of regional autonomy. Each locale has a council elected every five years by universal suffrage, and a Giunta regionale
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is responsible to the regional council. The regional council is a legislative assembly while the Giunta holds executive power. The regions are subdivided into a total of 95 provinces. Officers of the government include the president, who is chief of state, and the prime minister, who is head of government. The prime minister is gener-
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Rome ally head of a majority party or a majority coalition of parties but can also be appointed from other parties. A proposed prime minister must be approved by a parliamentary vote of confidence and can be removed from office at any time if parliament passes a vote of no confidence. 8
Public Safety
In Rome, speed limits are fixed at 50 kilometers (31 miles) per hour in urban areas, 110 kilometers (68 miles) per hour on main roads outside urban areas, 90 kilometers (56 miles) per hour on secondary and local roads, and 130 kilometers (81 miles) per hour on motorways. The new highway code recently introduced in Italy also stipulates that one must not drive at a speed which is so slow as to hinder the flow of traffic. There are speed limits of 80 kilometers (50 miles) per hour on all roads outside urban areas and 100 kilometers (62 miles) per hour on motorways for cars towing trailers or caravans. Drivers and passengers are required by law to wear seat belts in front and rear seats. Also, while driving, the use of portable telephones is prohibited if they require intervention by hand to function. Helmets are required by law for drivers on two-wheeled vehicles. Emergency breakdown services in Italy are run by ACI (Automobile Club d'Italia). The service operates 24 hours a day throughout the road network. On the motorways, breakdown services can be summoned using the yellow emergency posts located approximately
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every two kilometers (one mile). Information about breakdown service is provided by the 18 ACI representatives at the frontier posts for entry to Italy. 9
Economy
Since World War II, Italy has evolved from an economy based on agriculture into an economy of industrial ranking, with approximately the same total and per capita output as France and the United Kingdom. Yet, the country remains partially divided by the private companies developing in the industrial north and the public enterprise that governs the agricultural south. Rome is headquarters to many multinational corporations, including the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), International Fund for Agricultural Development (IFAD), and several World Food programs. Service accounts for 48 percent of the gross domestic product (GDP), industry for 35 percent, public administration for 13 percent, and agriculture for four percent. Most raw materials needed by Italian industry are imported, including over 75 percent of energy requirements. In the early 1990s, Rome was unsettled at the prospect of not qualifying to participate in plans for European economic and monetary union; thus, the city’s financial imbalance was addressed, and subsequently the government adopted stringent budgets, abandoned an inflationary wage index system, and scaled back social welfare
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Rome programs, including pension and health care. Monetary officials were forced to withdraw the lira in September 1993 when it came under extreme pressure in currency markets; it was not re-engaged until in November 1996. On January 1, 1999, the euro (EUR) became the legal currency in Italy, and the lira became a subdivision of it, the irrevocable conversion rate being 1,936.27 lira to one euro. The euro, which consists of 100 (U.S.) cents, will not be in circulation until January 2002. With the start of the new millennium, Rome’s economy is strong, but familiar issues remain a concern: high unemployment figures, government deficit, tottering communications systems, and environmental concerns for the ongoing expansion and industrial integration of the European Union. 10
Environment
Italy has limited mineral resources but has consistently increased its production of mineral imports, like petroleum, lignite, iron ore, sulfur, mercury, and marble. The country is rich with deposits of natural gas; however, reserves are dwindling. Demanding energy requirements keep Italy dependent on oil. Cultivated hydroelectricity does generate some power, and there are several nuclear stations in the country. Roman industrial groups and environmental organizations have made a joint declaration to reduce the environmental impact of energy use, signed in December 1998. The declaration aims
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to reduce emission of carbon dioxide, improve electrical sector efficiency, diversify energy sources, reduce energy consumption in both urban and transport, and double production of renewable energy. 11
Shopping
Rome is a city full of treasures. The prime shopping area for fashion is along Via dei Condotti and Via Frattina, from Via del Corso to Piazza di Spagna, and all of the avenues in between. Shop windows are dressed with jewelry, footwear, and of course, Italian designer clothes. Moderately priced fashions coupled with quality workmanship make the area popular. The elegant Ludovisi District is lined with famous cafes, divine restaurants, and exclusive shops. Radiating out from one of the world’s most famous streets, Via Veneto, the surrounding area has a wealth and style all its own. Between Via Del Tritone and Via Nazionale, the scaled-down boutiques are competitive and of classic quality. The Trevi Fountain area shops are plentiful and quite shoe savvy. Antique shopping can be found between Via Margutta, Via Ripetta, Via dei Coronari, and Via Del Babuino. Across the Tiber River is the Via cola di Rienzo and the Via Ottaviano, and both avenues are lined with clever shops. The department stores in Rome range from the Coin and Rinascente to Upim and Standa. The Coin is in Piaz-
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Rome
Street markets add to the multitude of shopping opportunities in Rome. (Mike Yamashita; Woodfin Camp)
zale Appio at Porta San Giovanni, and La Rinascente is in Piazza Colonna and in Via del Corso. Both Upim and Standa are more accessible at various locations throughout the city. Stores close on Sundays and for a half day during the week (Thursday afternoon for food stores, Monday morning for most others); however, some tourist area shops will remain open on Sundays. During the summer, the half-day closing schedule is on Saturday afternoon. Some shops and most department stores have opted for nonstop operating hours.
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The markets are another facet of shopping in Rome, especially the flea markets. One of the most famous in Italy is the Porta Portese market, held every Sunday morning. Merchant wares that contain everything from antiques to the unlikely cover a three-kilometer (two-mile) stretch of streets, from the Porta Portese to the underpass that leads into Piazza della Radio. 12
Education
School attendance is compulsory from ages six to 14 in Italy. Classes may be held six days a week, and education is a serious matter. There are many uni-
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Rome versities, educational centers, and degrees available in higher education. Italy’s largest institution, the University of Rome, has an enrollment of 190,000 students. Founded in 1303, the university confers many degrees in international relations and communications. Due to an extraordinary wealth of art, Rome is a major center for studies in creative dance, dramatic arts, music, and art restoration. The oldest university in Europe was founded in Bologna in the twelfth century. Present-day academic institutions and educational centers near Rome include Istituto Guglielmo Tagliacarne, Istituto Quasar Design school, John Cabot University, Pontifical Athanaeum Regina Apostolorum, Pontifical University of Saint Bonaventure, Pontifical University of St. Thomas Aquinas in Rome, Universita Cattolica del Sacro Cuore, Universita degli Studi di Roma La Sapienza, Universita degli Studi di Roma Tor Vergata, Universita Popolare di Roma, Universita degli Studi Roma Tre, Libera Universita degli Studi Maria SS Assunta, Libera Universita, Internazionale Studi Sociali Guido Carli, Libero Istituto Universitario Campus Bio medico, Pontifico Ateneo della Santa Croce, Pontifica Universita Gregoriana, Pontifica Universita Lateranense, Libero Istituto Universitario San Pio V, and the Osservatorio Astronomico. 13
Health Care
The problems that plague Italy’s health care system are complex and deeply rooted in the nation’s political
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history and economy. The withdrawal of the lira from the monetary system signaled the beginning of a period of economic austerity. In an attempt to control spending by Rome, social benefits, including health care, were cut back. Despite Italy being the world’s fifth-largest economy, governmental intervention policy has strangled productive growth. Generally, health care services are coordinated through government agencies, and 95 percent of Italians rely on the public system for health care. The system provisions offer cradle-to-grave medical and surgical care at public facilities throughout the nation. Of those 95 percent relying on public health care, about five percent have private insurance, which debuted about three years ago, and they tend to live in the northern region of Italy. About one percent of the population pays privately for health services, and a small number of private hospitals and clinics exist to serve their needs. Italy spends about seven-and-a-half percent of its GDP on health care or, in terms of U.S. dollars, about $1500 per person. Large public hospitals are the prominent features of the Italian health care landscape. Managed by the government, medical universities, or the Roman Catholic Church, the number of services available and the quality of service at public facilities correlates with each hospital’s geographic location. Private urban hospitals that tout the best
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Rome equipment are rivaled by large public facilities in big cities. There are three types of hospitals in Italy: general care facilities, specialist centers, and psychiatric care hospitals. Facilities are further defined by the number of patients they intend to serve. Local or zone hospitals serve 25,000 to 30,000 people and are the most common facilities. Provincial hospitals serve about 400,000 people, and regional facilities, located in large urban areas, serve about one million and offer the most services. The Italian Ministry of Health’s National Health Service, known as the SSN, oversees the operation of all government facilities, but each hospital is governed directly by an administrative council whose members are locally elected. Overall, health care tends to be unevenly distributed in Italy; the north is equipped with a greater number of facilities and more professionals than the neighboring south. 14
Media
Rome’s two main newspapers are La Republica and Il Messaggero. British and American newspapers are readily available, and the International Herald Tribune is sold on the day of issue. British Broadcast Communications (BBC) world service can be heard on radio 15.070 MHz (shortwave) in the morning and 648KHz (medium wave) at night. Listeners can tune in to Vatican Radio on 93.3 MHz, and 105 MHz broadcasts news in English.
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The state television channels include RAI, Uno, Due, and Tre; all are politically aligned. Satellite dishes and cable TV allow for reception of various European channels, as well as channels for sports and news in English. 15
Sports
Romans are sports enthusiasts and play with passion. A peaceful afternoon may suddenly explode with the sounds of victory—cheers from excited crowds and honking car horns. Football, commonly known as soccer in North America, is the national sport. Playing for Rome in the Campionato Italiano (Italian championship league) are two teams, Roma and Lazio, and they take turns playing in Stadio Olimpico on Sundays at 3:00 PM. Spring in Rome is synonymous with tennis. For tennis players, there are an abundance of clubs from which to choose. For tennis fans, the International Tennis Championship meets for two weeks every May at Foro Italico. The event draws the world’s top tennis players to smash it out on clay courts. Spring also brings out golf enthusiasts. Golfers in Rome can play at several golf associations in and around the city. Some will accept a touring golfer with a home membership. Golf fans can also watch the National Championships in and around the city. The tournament play runs in October, and the Rome Masters is held in April. Rome also hosts a plethora of racing venues. For horseracing fans, the trotters run at the Ippodromo di Tor di
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Rome Valle. Steeple chase or flat races are run at Ippodromo delle Capannelle. Autoracing enthusiasts head to Valle Lunga, where Formula-1 and Formula-3 cars vie for the lead position on Sundays. Dogs race at the Cinodromo Track, where greyhounds run Wednesday and Thursday evenings, as well as Sunday mornings. Finally, for the fans of rowing, a British Oxbridge team challenges the historic Aniene team to race, alternately on the Thames and the Tiber rivers, in mid June. 16
Parks and Recreation
Rome’s perfect climate and stunning scenery beckon many people into the plentiful city parks. People don’t have to travel far to experience park settings and exquisite monuments. The Trevi Fountain, begun by Italian sculptor Gian Lorenzo Bernini (1598–1680) in 1640, is a perfect example. The Roman Forum’s archaeological area is a public garden in itself that is open from morning until sunset. The largest park in Rome, Villa Doria Pamphilj, is located just south of the Vatacian. The park was designed in the mid-seventeenth century for Prince Camillo Pamphilj. A beautiful place to stroll, there is plenty of open space, a network of paths to explore, and three different tracks for walking dogs or jogging. On a hillside above Piazza del Popolo is another lush and inviting park, Pincio Gardens. The streets are skillfully terraced with umbrella pines,
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palm trees, and evergreen oaks to hide the zig-zag road that climbs up to the gardens. Villa Borghese, designed in 1605 for Cardinal Borghese, was the first park of its kind in Rome, with 400 planted pine trees and dramatic waterworks. The garden layout was often imitated by prominent Roman families. Honoring the eighteenth-century renovation, the intersections of paths and avenues are now marked by fountains and statues. Long avenues of trees are dotted with picturesque villas that double as museums and galleries. The woods, lakes, and grass cover a vast area. This park also offers a running track. A beautiful villa and garden, Villa Torionia was once the Mussolini family residence. Its well-maintained commons area contains a variety of exotic plants and ample trees. Another small, serene park villa with a scenic view of the city is Rome’s Villa Aldobrandini. The supreme Villa Celimontana is located between the Colosseum and the baths of Caracalla. Open dawn until sunset, only a part of another comely city park, Villa Ada, is open to the public. If exercise is on the agenda, bicycles are available for rent from many places, including Porta Pinciana in Villa Borghese, Collalti, and Via del Corso. Organized bike tours are advertised in various publications. For the indoor enthusiast, there are sport centers that offer swimming pools, gym facilities, and dance classes.
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Rome Some health clubs do require membership. 17
Performing Arts
Italy is considered by many to be a birthplace of the arts. Today Romans still enjoy cultural events and are proud of their country’s artistic heritage. Throughout the year there are numerous musical and artistic venues to experience, both indoors and outdoors. For classical music, the city’s churches host a range of choral, chamber, and organ recitals, many free of charge. For jazz and blues afficionados, the gardens at Villa Celimontana host premiere musicians for an evening of music under the stars. Throughout the year, the local Accademia di Santa Cecilia stages concerts, with either national artists or visiting orchestras, at Via dei Greci 18, and in the summer concerts are held at the Piazza del Campidoglio. Rome’s opera scene concentrates on the Teatro dell’ Opera. Winter season is conducted on the Via Firenze; for summer season, the ensemble moves outdoors to Villa Borghese park. Finally, for a colorful open-air theater, Janiculum Hill plays host to Teatro di Pulcinella Puppets on late afternoons and weekend mornings. Reflecting diverse styles, the magnificence of Rome is preserved through arts and culture. The city is host to hundreds of theaters throughout the streets, in open spaces, and among ancient ruins.
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18
Libraries and Museums
Italy has more than 2,400 public libraries and 3,442 museums that store and specialize in information. Some institutions circulate only materials that cover a particular field of study— archaeology, ancient art, bio-medics, to name a few. With a history as rich as Rome’s, it takes numerous institutions to house and display all the ancient treasures. The following is only a partial list of the many libraries: Accademia Dei Lincei, Accademia di Danimarca, Accademia di Ungheria, Accademia Spagnola di Storia, Biblioteca A. Sarti, Angelica, Casanatense, Comunale Rispoli, Belle Donne, Di Storia Moderna E Contemporaena, Raccolta Teatrale Del Burcardo, Nazionale Centrale, Universitaria Alessandrina, Vallicelliana, Vaticana, British Council, Centro Studi Americani, Fondazione Lelio Basso, Fondazione Luigi Einaudi, Goethe Institut, Istituto Austriaco Di Cultura, Istituto di Norvegia a Roma, and Istituto Svizzero Di Roma. Rome also hosts more than 50 different visual art museums and galleries. Not all are inside structures; some museums operate within the very structure they represent, like the Catacombs. The oldest art collection in Rome, housed in the Capitoline Museum, was established in 1471 and contains exceptional antiquities. Other Roman museums are the National Museum of the Villa Giulia, which has an outstanding collection of Etruscan and Roman art, and is located in the mid-sixteenth-cen-
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Rome
The Pantheon, a temple, survives from the era of the Roman Empire. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
tury country house of Pope Julius II (1443–1513). The Borghese Gallery, a museum of paintings and sculpture is housed in an early seventeenth-century palace. The National Roman Museum, designed by Michelangelo (1475–1564), features exhibits of Greek and Roman sculpture, including the Ludovisi collection of antiquities. Important collections of art and decorative pieces can also be seen in the city’s other palaces. Among these are the Farnese Palace, built between 1514 and 1589; the midfifteenth-century Venetian Palace, with a noted collection of small renaissance bronzes; and the Palazzo Barberini, a
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seventeenth-century Baroque palace with a remarkable picture gallery. The Vatican Museum, Viale Vaticano, is open from March through October and offers student pricing. Archaeological museums tend to be closed on Mondays. Several within the city include Antiquarium Comunale, Museo Barracco Corso Vittorio Emanuele, Capitoline Museums Piazza del Campidoglio, Museo Della Civilta’ Romana Piazza Giovanni Angel, Museo Nazionale Romano, and Museo Preistorico ed Etnografico L. Pigorini. For inspirational art, visitors should see Museo Gregoriano Profano,
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Rome Museo Pio Clementino, Museo Chiaramonti, Museo Gregoriano Etrusco, Museo Storico, Castel Sant’Angelo Museum, National Roman Museum of the Thermae, Museum of Roman Civilization, Natural History Museum, Napoleonic Museum, Palazzo delle Esposizioni Via Nazionale, Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica, Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna, Galleria dell; Accademia, Galleria Colonna Via della Pilotta, and Galleria Doria Pamphili. Museums and monuments to the deceased are also popular places to visit in Rome. One rather unusual place is an eclectic museum devoted to the dead souls trapped in purgatory who leave messages for the living. Admission is free at Museo delle Anime dei Defunti. Near the Pantheon on Piazza della Minerva is Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. Here lies the body of St. Catherine. After her death in 1380, her body was severed from her head, which remained in Siena, the town of her birth. The Saint Maria della Concezione’s Cappuccini monk cemetery is elaborately decorated with the bones of 4,000 monks and a Barberini princess. Located on Via Vittorio Veneto, it is a place of startling spirituality. 19
To u r i s m
A great number of tourists are attracted to Rome by its Alpine and Mediterranean scenery, sunny climate, archaeological remains, medieval and Baroque churches, Renaissance towns and palaces, painting, sculpture, and
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famous opera houses. Each province of Italy has a Board of Tourism; in addition, there are more than 300 supplemental listings for further information in Rome. The latest figures indicate that close to 60 million people visit Italy every year. Tourist dollars spent in 1996 amounted to more than 46 million lira. City authorities estimate more than 40 million pilgrims traveled to Rome during the year 2000. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Epiphany
FEBRUARY Lenten season
MARCH Ides of March
APRIL Easter (The Pope says mass on Holy Friday at the Colosseum.) Natale di Roma (Rome’s birthday is celebrated with fireworks.) Liberation Day International Horse Show Rome Masters Golf Tournament
MAY Labour Day Foro Italico (Roman International Tennis Championship) Spanish Steps Azaleas Display
JUNE Derby Horse Racing Anniversary of the Republic St. Peter’s Square papal benediction (Sundays) Crew race between teams Oxbridge and Aniene
JULY Expo Tevere (artisan fair)
AUGUST Assumption of the Virgin Mary
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Rome OCTOBER
Enrico Caruso (1873–1921), tenor.
National Golf Championship
NOVEMBER All Saints Day National Unity Day Premio Roma horse race
DECEMBER Birth of the Virgin Mary Feast of St. Stephen
Saint Clare of Assisi (1198–1253), revered female of the early Franciscan Order. Dante (1265–1321), poet and founder of modern Italian literature with his The Divine Comedy. Federico Fellini (1920–93), film director.
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Famous Citizens
Francisco Accorso Accursius (c. 1182–c. 1260), jurist and professor, compiled Glossa Magna on Roman law.
Saint Francis of Assisi (1182–1223), religious figure, founder of the Franciscan Order (1209).
Saint Ambrose (340–397), patron saint.
Augustus William Hare (1792–1824), author of guidebooks and travelogues of Italy and the Mediterranean.
Fra Angelico (1387–1455), renaissance painter.
Pope John Paul I (Albino Luciani, 1912– 1978), Catholic Pope.
Saint Anthony of Padua (1195–1231), Franciscan preacher, who holds the record for being canonized in the shortest period of time after his death, less than one year.
Julius Caesar (c. 100–44 B.C.), assassinated a month after being named imperial Roman dictator for life.
Alfieri (1749–1803), poet.
Saint Augustine (354–430), bishop whom scholars call the greatest thinker in the Latin language. Augustus Caesar (63 B.C.–A.D. 14), the first and perhaps greatest Roman emperor. Dario Bellezza (1944–95), poet and novelist. Saint Benedict (c. 480–c. 547), founder of the Benedictine monastic order, patron saint of engineers. Filippo Brunelleschi (1377–1446), architect and sculptor.
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Niccolo Machiavelli (1469–1527), author. Angelo Mariani (1821–73), music director, collaborator of Verdi. Saint Mark (d. 68), patron saint of Venice. Giulietta Masina (1920–94), actress, wife of Federico Fellini. Marcello Mastroianni (1924–96), actor, discovered by Fellini. Michelangelo Buonarroti (1475–1564), painter, sculptor and architect, who rejected the restrictions of classical design theory and generated an
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Rome imaginative approach to architectural composition.
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For Further Study
Websites Claudio Monteverdi (1567–1643), composer. Niccolo Paganini (d. 1840), violin virtuoso. Pope Paul VI (Giovanni Montini, 1897– 1978), Catholic pope. Giacomo Puccini (1858–1924), composer. Raphael (1483–1520), artist. Gioacchino Rossini (1792–1868), composer. Tintoretto (1518–1594), Venetian painter. Arturo Toscanini (1867–1957), conductor. Giuseppe Verdi (1813–1901), composer. Gianni Versace (1946–97), fashion designer. Virgil (70–19 B .C .), Rome’s champion epic poet, wrote literary masterpiece the Aeneid.
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Enjoy Rome. [Online] Available http:// www.enjoyrome.com (accessed February 7, 2000). Northern Italy. [Online] Available http:// www.northernitaly.com (accessed February 7, 2000). Theodora. [Online] Available http:// www.theodora.com (accessed February 7, 2000).
Government Offices Consiglio Superiore della Magistratura Piazza dell’ Indipendendza 6, 00185 Rome Francesco Paolo Fulci Ambassador to United Nations Unione Italiana delle Camere di Commercio Piazza Sallustio 21, 00187 Rome Tel: (6) 47041 U. S. Embassy Via Veneto 119A/121 Tel.: 467 41
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Dipartimento del Turismo: Via della Ferratella in Laterano 51, 00184 Rome Ente Nazionale Italiano per il Turisom (ENIT) Via Marghera 2, 00185 Rome
Books Absalom, R. Italy since 1880: A Nation in the Balance. Harlow, 1995. Smith, D.M. Modern Italy: A Political History. Yale University Press, 1997.
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San Francisco San Francisco, California, United States of America, North America Founded: 1776; Incorporated: 1850 Location: The Pacific coast of northern California, United States, North America Motto: “Gold in Peace and Iron in War” Flower: Dahlia Time Zone: 4 AM Pacific Standard Time (PST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: White, 67%; Black, 11%; American Indian, Eskimo, Aleut, 0.5%; Asian and Pacific Islander, 29%; Hispanic origin (may be of any race), 14% Elevation: 47 m (155 ft) Latitude and Longitude: 37º77'N, 122º41'W Coastline: 40–50 km (25–30 mi) Climate: Mediterranean-type climate with consistent, moderate temperatures. The year is divided into distinct dry and wet seasons, with most precipitation occurring between November and March. A distinguishing climate feature is the fog that rolls in from the Pacific Ocean. Annual Mean Temperature: 15ºC (59ºF); January 12ºC (53ºF); August 18ºC (65ºF) Average Annual Precipitation (rainfall and melted snow): 49 cm (19.33 in) Government: Mayor-council Weights and Measures: Standard U.S. Monetary Units: Standard U.S. Telephone Area Codes: 415 Postal Codes: 94101-88
1
Introduction
Situated on a peninsula separating San Francisco Bay from the Pacific Ocean, San Francisco is a uniquely picturesque city, whose scenic attractions include the largest cultivated urban park in the country, Golden Gate Park. Its notoriously steep streets, traversed by the famous cable cars, are home to a remarkably diverse ethnic population, and the city’s reputation for tolerance and diversity is also evident in its history as a mecca for the gay community. Known for sophisticated cultural innovation and experimentation, San Fran-
cisco was the gathering place of the “beat” generation in the 1950s and a focal point of the 1960s counterculture, a hotbed of political protest and the birthplace of the “San Francisco Sound.” Still known for its cultural attractions, today the Bay Area is also famous for its concentration of cuttingedge high-technology firms, which have drawn even more new residents to this populous region. 2
Getting There
The city of San Francisco is situated at the tip of a peninsula surrounded by
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San Francisco Bus and Railroad Service
San Francisco Population Profile City Proper Population: 724,000 Area: 122 sq km (47 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 59.5% white; 29.1% Asian or Pacific Islander; 10.9% black; and 0.5% Native American Nicknames: The Golden Gate City, Baghdad in the Bay
Metropolitan Area Population: 4,051,000 Description: San Francisco and surrounding communities World population rank1: 59 Percentage of national population2: 1.5% Average yearly growth rate: 1.0% Ethnic composition: 67% white; 25% Asian or Pacific Islander; 7% black; 1% other ——— 1. The San Francisco metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the United States’ total population living in the San Francisco metropolitan area.
the Pacific Ocean on the west, the San Francisco Bay on the east, and the Golden Gate, a narrow marine passageway between San Francisco and Marin County to the north. Highways Several interstate highways provide easy access to the city, including U.S.101 and State Route 1 (the Pacific Coastal Highway). I-5, the north-south highway that runs from Canada to Mexico, reaches San Francisco through Loops 580 and 680. U.S.-50 also passes through the city.
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Amtrak provides service to San Francisco on the California Zephyr, which runs through Salt Lake City, Denver, and eastward to Chicago, and the Coast Starlight, which runs between San Francisco and Los Angeles. Trains with regional routes through California include the Capitols and the San Joaquins. Airports San Francisco International Airport, one of the nation’s busiest, handles most domestic and international flights to and from the city. It services flights from about 50 major carriers. Shipping With 40 deep-water piers, San Francisco is one of the leading port cities on the Pacific coast, handling about onethird of the country’s West Coast trade, amounting to more than 200,000 tons of cargo annually. It has been designated a U.S. Port of Entry and a free trade zone. Freight is also carried to and from the region by a number of major rail carriers and trucking companies, and all major air freight carriers land at San Francisco International Airport. 3
Getting Around
Situated on 40 hills of varying heights—among the highest are Telegraph Hill, Nob Hill, and Russian Hill— San Francisco is known for its steep streets, many of which ascend and descend hillsides, the result of insis-
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San Francisco
tence by early planners on imposing a strict grid pattern on the city rather than following the natural contours of
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the land. The two hills of Twin Peaks mark the geographic center of the city, which is divided into a number of dis-
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San Francisco Sightseeing
San Francisco’s historic cable cars cover a 16 kilometer (10-mile) route. (Carol Simowitz; San Francisco Convention & Visitors Bureau)
tinct neighborhoods, many of whose streets are laid out in grid patterns. Bisecting much of the city from southwest to northeast is Market Street, whose southwestern-most portion is called Portola Drive. The Golden Gate Bridge runs northward across the Golden Gate straight; the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge runs northeastward across San Francisco Bay. Bus and Commuter Rail Service The Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) provides commuter rail service between the city and 26 stations in the East Bay area. The Municipal Railway System (Muni) operates San Francisco’s famed cable cars—popular with both commuters and tourists—and a system of aboveand underground light-rail vehicles. There is also ferry service between San Francisco, Oakland, and Berkeley.
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Many of the sights in downtown San Francisco can be covered on walking tours. Areas for which tours are available include Chinatown and Pacific Heights. Among the tours focusing on specific areas of interest are Victorian homes tour and a Dashiell Hammett tour that covers sites linked to his detective, Sam Spade. The city’s restored cable cars—which have been declared a historical landmark—carry visitors over a 16-kilometer (ten-mile) route. Bus tours of San Francisco and the Bay Area are also available, as are scenic cruises of San Francisco Bay, which offer views of the San Francisco skyline, the Golden Gate Bridge, and Alcatraz prison. 4
People
Known for its ethnic diversity, San Francisco has one of the country’s highest concentrations of new immigrants. The 1990 census recorded a population of approximately 724,000 in the city of San Francisco, of which 59.5 percent were white, 29.1 percent Asian or Pacific Islander, 10.9 percent black, and 0.5 percent Native American. The surrounding area, designated by the Census Bureau as San Francisco’s Primary Statistical Metropolitan Area (PMSA), had a 1990 population of 1.6 million. In 1996 its population was still under 1.7 million, and its racial composition was 67 percent white; 25 percent Asian or Pacific Islander; and seven percent black.
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San Francisco
City Fact Comparison San Francisco (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
4,051,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1776
753 BC
723 BC
$172
$129
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy) Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner) Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.) Total daily costs
$139
$193
$44
$56
$59
$62
$2
$14
$15
$16
$185
$173
$246
$207
Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
2
13
20
11
San Francisco Chronicle
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
475,324
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1865
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
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Neighborhoods
Neighborhoods in the northern part of San Francisco include the wealthy Pacific Heights district, whose mansions provide dramatic views of the Bay; Nob Hill, site of the “crookedest street in the world” (Lombard Street); North Beach and Chinatown, home to the largest single concentration of Chinese outside of China; the financial district, dominated by the TransAmerica Pyramid and the Bank of America building; and the Western Addition, with its gracious restored Victorian homes. Districts close to the center of the city include Haight-Ashbury, cradle
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of the 1960s counterculture; the Mission District, site of the historic Mission Dolores and home to the city’s largest Hispanic population; the Central area, home of the Castro, for decades a gay and lesbian mecca; and the South of Market district, a heavily commercial area that has attracted many high-technology start-up firms. To the south lie South Bayshore, which combines residential and commercial properties and is also home to the city’s produce markets; the largely working-class South Central area; and the pricier Ingleside, near San Francisco State University and San Francisco City College.
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San Francisco
A view of San Francisco from across the San Francisco Bay. (Glen McLeod; San Francisco Convention & Visitors Bureau)
6
History
The fog that rolls in off the Pacific Ocean hid the present-day site of San Francisco from Spanish conquistadors for two centuries after they first discovered California. A small party of explorers traveling overland from Mexico toward Canada and led by Sergeant José Ortega first stumbled on the area in 1769, and settlement began in 1776. A small town, called Yerba Buena, was established, but for over half a century it attracted little attention and was populated mostly by missionaries. The United States claimed it in 1846, during the Mexican War, and its population
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nearly doubled with the arrival of over 200 Mormon settlers. The town’s situation changed dramatically with the discovery of gold in 1848 at Sutters Mill, about 225 kilometers (140 miles) away, and the onset of the California Gold Rush. The Gold Rush brought wealth and expansion to the city as it grew to accommodate the thousands of prospectors arriving to seek their fortunes, many of whom later settled permanently in the area. However, the Gold Rush also created a wave of lawlessness as saloons, gambling joints, and brothels were opened to serve thousands of temporary settlers who considered themselves outside the
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San Francisco law. San Francisco was incorporated in 1850, and the city’s permanent residents began forming vigilante groups in the 1850s to clean up the town, eventually restoring order. San Francisco continued to grow in the latter half of the nineteenth century, receiving a major boost from the completion of the transcontinental railway in 1869, as well as a silver boom in Nevada. By the turn of the century, it was home to about a third-of-a-million people. The new century, however, soon brought disaster in the form of the great earthquake of April 18, 1906, in which over 500 people perished. Ten square kilometers (four square miles) of the city were destroyed as fires raged out of control for three days. However, the people of San Francisco forged ahead in the face of tragedy and rebuilt their city, with the help of donations that poured in from many quarters following the disaster. By 1915 the city triumphantly hosted its first world’s fair, the Panama-Pacific International Exposition in honor of the completion of the Panama Canal. The first half of the twentieth century was a period of continued growth spearheaded by the completion of major buildings and infrastructure projects, including the damming of the Tuoloumne River at the Hetch Hetchy Canyon and the construction of two great bridges completed within a year of each other: the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge (1936) and the Golden Gate Bridge (1937). With the growth of industry came the development of an active labor movement, which became
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one of the dominant powers in the city. The longshoremen’s strike in 1930 was the largest in U.S. history. World War II (1939–45) further boosted industrial production in the city, although the period was marred by the forced relocation of thousands of Bay Area Japanese Americans and their detention in internment camps for the duration of the war. The postwar period has seen continued economic growth and civic expansion, but the city has also had to confront problems typical of major urban areas, including flight to the surrounding suburbs, and the blight and decay of downtown areas. Urban renewal began in the 1960s and 1970s; the downtown area was redeveloped, and the Rapid Transit System was introduced to make the central city more accessible to those on the periphery. During this period, the Bay Area became a focal point of the youth counterculture that was sweeping the nation, and a center for student protest against the Vietnam War (1945–1973) and other types of activism, including the struggle for gay rights. The 1970s ended on a somber note with the 1979 assassination of Mayor George Moscone and the city’s first openly gay city supervisor, Harvey Milk. That same year San Francisco elected its first woman mayor, Dianne Feinstein. In 1989 San Francisco experienced another major earthquake. However, the city moved forward in the following decade. Its city hall was refurbished, and important new facilities were built,
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San Francisco
Because of its location on a natural harbor, shipping has played an important part in the history of San Francisco’s economy. Today, the Fisherman’s Wharf is a popular tourist attraction. (Mark Gibson; San Francisco Convention & Visitors Bureau)
including a museum of modern art, a new main library, and an arts center. 7
Government
San Francisco, which is both a city and a county, has a mayor-council form of government. The mayor, who serves as the chief executive, is elected to a four-year term, as are the 11 members of the city council. The city administrator and controller are appointed by the mayor. Elected officials include the city assessor, public defender, district attorney, sheriff, and attorney. In 1995 San
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Francisco’s municipal government employed 26,000 persons. 8
Public Safety
In 1995 San Francisco had a total crime index figure of 8,190 crimes reported to police per 100,000 residents. A total of 1,737 reports were violent crimes (murder, 17; rape, 69; robbery, 653; and aggravated assault, 998), and 6,713 were property crimes (burglary, 965; larceny, 4,625; and motor vehicle theft, 1,123).
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San Francisco In May 1999, the city of San Francisco, together with three other California municipalities and two counties, sued gun manufacturers for promoting the illegal sale of guns that are ultimately used to commit crimes. Three industry trade associations and 28 gun makers were named in the suit, which charged them with creating an illegal secondary market for guns and deliberately producing enough guns to perpetuate it; designing guns to make them attractive to criminals; falsely advertising the safety of their products; evading state and federal gun control laws; and selling defective and unsafe weapons. The gun-industry suit follows the precedent set in 1996 when San Francisco became the first city in the United States to sue the tobacco industry, also under California’s unfair business practices law. Under the terms of the 1998 settlement of that suit, California became the only state in which cities were to receive direct compensation from the tobacco industry. 9
Economy
San Francisco’s coastal location and natural harbor have made it an important shipping center throughout its history, and it is still one of the major port cities on the West Coast, although today most shipping activity actually occurs in nearby Oakland. Since the nineteenth century, San Francisco has been known as a financial center. Today it is home to leading banks (Wells Fargo) and insurance companies (TransAmerica, Fireman’s Fund)
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and the site of the Pacific Stock Exchange, as well as branches of the Federal Reserve and United States Mint. Some 500 Fortune 500 companies are headquartered in the city, including Charles Schwab & Co., Bechtel Engineering, Chevron Oil, and Levi Strauss & Co. San Francisco’s newest growth areas are computers and electronics, and biotechnology. The city’s history of involvement in defense-related industries and its location near such hightech centers as Stanford University and the famed Silicon Valley have created a boom in computers, scientific instrument, and other electronics fields. Home of the pioneering Genentech firm, founded in the 1970s, San Francisco is also on the cutting edge of the biotechnology industry, with some 500 companies in the area specializing in pharmaceuticals, medical electronics, bionics, and related areas. The cost of living in the Bay Area is substantially higher than the national average. In 1996 the median sale price for a single-family home was $319,985, well above the national average, and apartments rent from $550 per month for a one-room studio to $1,500 for two- and three-bedroom apartments or houses. However, the income of the area’s residents is also above average— their wages and salaries are among the highest in the nation, partly as a result of their relatively high level of education and the concentration of jobs in well-paid areas, including high-technology fields and the professions.
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Environment
San Francisco is situated on a peninsula that forms the western boundary of the 1,285-square-kilometer (496square-mile) San Francisco Bay. Its hilly terrain is part of the Coast Ranges, which extend from Oregon southward to Santa Barbara County. Among the highest peaks in the region are Mount Tamalpais (784 meters/2,571 feet) and Mount Diablo (1,173 meters/3,849 feet). Other than its harbor, the outstanding natural feature of the Bay Area—and the one with the greatest potential to affect the lives of its residents—is the region’s location on top of a network of fault lines, which has led to two major earthquakes in this century, in 1906 and 1989. The San Andreas is the best known of these tectonic faults, where portions of the earth’s crust slide past each other. Normally these motions amount to an imperceptible five centimeters (two inches) per year; occasionally, however, excess pressure builds up against these plates, and when it is released, an earthquake occurs. In 1994 the city inaugurated a 50year plan to dispose of the millions of tons of sediment that wash into San Francisco Bay annually, threatening shipping and other activities. 11
Shopping
San Francisco offers a varied and eclectic shopping experience. Union Square, in the northeastern part of the
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city, is the major shopping district and home to most of the city’s department stores, including Macy’s, Neiman Marcus, Gump’s, and Nordstrom, which anchors the huge San Francisco Shopping Centre, site of over 100 stores and restaurants. The Embarcadero Center, located in the financial district, is a four-hectare (ten-acre) commercial complex of shops and restaurants. Also located in the financial district is the exclusive Crocker Galleria, featuring designer clothing and specialty shops. The Jackson Square Historic District offers over 20 antique stores. In addition to souvenir shops and specialty museums, Fisherman’s Wharf offers four major retail complexes: Ghirardelli Square, anchored by a chocolate factory, the Cannery (a converted canning factory), Pier 39, and the Anchorage. For the budget-minded, the South of Market neighborhood offers a variety of bargain outlets and secondhand shops. San Francisco’s ethnic neighborhoods provide a colorful shopping experience: goods from throughout Latin America can be found in the heavily Hispanic Mission District, and Chinatown offers all types of Asian goods, some in open-air markets. San Francisco is also widely known as a bookstore lover’s paradise. 12
Education
The San Francisco Unified School District has approximately 105 public schools covering kindergarten through grade 12, with an average daily attendance of 63,900. The city’s private and
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San Francisco
Visitors pass under the gate to Chinatown, one of San Francisco’s many ethnic neighborhoods. (Kerrick James; San Francisco Convention & Visitors Bureau)
parochial schools, numbering about 140, enroll an additional 23,600 students. Altogether, there are more than 35 colleges and universities located in the Bay Area, including the University of California at San Francisco, San Francisco State University, the University of San Francisco, Golden Gate University, and the University of California at Berkeley. Specialized educational facilities include the Hastings College of Law, the California School of Professional Psychology, the San Francisco Art Institute,
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and the San Francisco Conservatory of Music. 13
Health Care
San Francisco offers state-of-the-art health-care facilities. The San Francisco metropolitan statistical area had 5,209 office-based physicians in 1995 when its 23 community hospitals had 4,999 beds. San Francisco’s largest hospital is San Francisco General Medical Center, with 550 beds and a highly respected emergency and trauma center. The hospital was also the site of the first specialized AIDS unit in the country. In 1996–
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San Francisco 97, it had 23,764 admissions, 391,661 outpatient visits, and employed 3,239 people. Other health-care facilities include the University of California at San Francisco Medical Center, St. Francis Memorial Hospital, and Seton Medical Center. 14
Media
San Francisco has two major daily newspapers: the San Francisco Chronicle (morning) and the San Francisco Examiner (evening); both papers jointly publish the Sunday paper, the San Francisco Examiner and Chronicle. Neighborhood publications include the Richmond Review, San Francisco Downtown, the Haight Ashbury Free Press, and the New Mission News. San Francisco Business magazine is published by the city’s chamber of commerce, while San Francisco Focus is a regional-interest magazine. San Francisco is also the book publishing capital of the West Coast. The major commercial networks, public television, and foreign-language stations are all represented among the city’s nine television stations, and there are 33 AM and FM radio stations. 15
Sports
The Bay Area is home to major league teams in all the major spectator sports. In baseball, there are the National League’s San Francisco Giants and the American League’s Oakland Athletics (“Oakland A’s”). Teams from both San Francisco and Oakland also play in the National Football League (NFL): the San Francisco 49ers and the
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Oakland Raiders. In basketball, Oakland’s Golden State Warriors play in the National Basketball Association (NBA). All the San Francisco teams play in 3Com Park (formerly Candlestick Park); the Oakland teams play at the Oakland Coliseum. Also in the Bay Area are the National Hockey League’s San Jose Sharks. San Francisco is also home to the nation’s third-largest marathon, the San Francisco Marathon, held annually in July. Other spectator sports include horse racing at Golden Gate Fields and Bay Meadows and auto racing at Baylands Raceway Park and other venues. 16
Parks and Recreation
Golden Gate Park, stretching five kilometers (three miles) inland from Ocean Beach toward the heart of the city, is the nation’s largest cultivated urban park. Covering a total area of over 405 hectares (1,000 acres), it has 43 kilometers (27 miles) of footpaths and 12 kilometers (seven-and-a-half miles) of equestrian trails. Its varied landscape includes gardens and woods, as well as man-made lakes and waterfalls. San Franciscans use the park for everything from quiet strolls and picnics to outdoor sports. Located within its boundaries are an arboretum, a glass flower conservatory housing over 20,000 species of rare plants, a Japanese tea garden, an eight-hectare (20-acre) rhododendron garden, and a children’s playground.
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San Francisco Situated on both sides of the Golden Gate waterway between the Pacific Ocean and San Francisco Bay, and connected by the Golden Gate Bridge, is the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, the world’s largest urban park. Covering a total of 28,329 hectares (70,000 acres), it offers hiking trails, beaches, campgrounds, nature preserves, and scenic lookouts over both the ocean and the bay. Outdoor activities available in San Francisco year round include hiking, camping, bicycling, horseback riding, hang gliding, and golf. Popular water sports include swimming, fishing, boating, water skiing, and surfing. 17
Performing Arts
San Francisco is known for its rich and varied cultural scene, which embraces both European (Western) and non-Western traditions in the performing arts. Its flagship musical institution is the San Francisco Symphony Orchestra, founded in 1911. Appointed in 1995, music director Michael Tilson Thomas has expanded the group’s repertoire to include a greater number of twentieth-century works, as well as the standard classical and Romantic offerings. Other well-known musical ensembles founded in San Francisco include the Kronos Quartet and the male choir Chanticleer. The San Francisco Opera, widely considered the leading opera company in the western United States, was founded in 1923, making it one of the nation’s oldest opera companies. Jazz has flourished in the Bay Area since
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The Palace of Fine Arts provides a naturally beautiful setting for all sorts of recreational activities. (Glen McLeod; San Francisco Convention & Visitors Bureau)
the 1940s and 1950s, the heyday of area native Dave Brubeck (b. 1920). The 1960s made San Francisco one of the nation’s rock capitals, birthplace of the “San Francisco Sound,” exemplified by the Grateful Dead, the Jefferson Airplane, and Janis Joplin’s band, Big Brother and the Holding Company. The San Francisco Ballet, the country’s oldest resident ballet company, has a wide repertoire of works by both classical and twentieth-century choreographers, and the Oakland Ballet has also made a name for itself in the region. San Francisco’s modern dance troupes include Contraband.
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San Francisco San Francisco’s American Conservatory Theatre is considered one of the country’s leading regional theaters and also runs a highly regarded drama school. The San Francisco Mime Troupe, founded 40 years ago, is still popular with local audiences and tours widely. 18
Libraries and Museums
The San Francisco Public Library, founded in 1878, serves a population of nearly 800,000 from a main building and 26 branches. With almost two-anda-half million book volumes, it has an annual circulation of close to five-anda-half million. The library has special collections in the areas of Chinese language, calligraphy, gay and lesbian history, science fiction, and humor. San Francisco’s premier art museum is the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, located in a striking modern building designed by Swiss architect Mario Botta (b. 1943), opposite the Yerba Buena Gardens, after moving from its longtime site in the Civic Center. The museum, which houses more than 17,000 pieces of art, is known locally as “Sf-MOMA.” Other major art collections are found at the M. H. de Young Memorial Museum, which features European paintings; it is located in Golden Gate Park, where it shares a building with the Asian Art Museum. San Francisco is also home to an eclectic array of specialty museums, including the American Carousel Museum, the National Maritime
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Museum, the San Francisco International Toy Museum, the Old Mint, the Telephone Museum, the San Francisco Fire Department Museum, the Chinese Culture Center Museum, and the San Francisco Crafts and Folk Art Museum. 19
To u r i s m
San Francisco’s natural beauty, mild weather, and cultural attractions have made tourism one of the city’s leading industries, and there are some 30,000 hotel rooms available for visitors. In addition to vacationers and sightseers, about one-and-a-half million visitors to the city attend conventions and trade shows in the city every year. They are served by an outstanding array of meeting facilities, including the Civic Auditorium, which seats nearly 8,000 people; the Brooks Exhibit Hall, which provides 8,361 square meters (90,000 square feet) of exhibition space; and the 55,740-square-meter (600,000-squarefoot) Moscone Center, undergoing an expansion slated for completion in 2000. In 1995 San Francisco attracted two-and-a-half million foreign visitors, the fourth-highest number of any city in the United States. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Chinese New Year celebration Sports & Boat Show
FEBRUARY Arts of the Pacific Asian Show Pacific Orchid Exposition
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San Francisco MARCH Bouquets to Art Contemporary Crafts Market International Asian Film Festival Tulipmania St. Patrick’s Day Parade San Francisco Garden Show
San Francisco Fringe Theater Festival San Francisco Blues Festival
OCTOBER Fleet Week Great Halloween and Pumpkin Festival Viva Mexico
MARCH-APRIL
LATE OCTOBER-EARLY NOVEMBER
Easter Parade and Hat Promenade
San Francisco Jazz Festival
APRIL
NOVEMBER
Cherry Blossom Festival Macy’s Flower Show
Polka Festival Weekend (Thanksgiving Weekend) and Polka Hall of Fame Induction
LATE APRIL-EARLY MAY San Francisco International Film Festival
MAY Carnaval Cinco de Mayo Celebrations Traditional Music and Dance Festival Spring Festival Arts & Crafts Fair San Francisco Examiner Bay to Breakers Race Norway Day Festival
JUNE Ethnic Dance Festival Union Street Festival Street Performers Festival North Beach Festival
MID-JUNE TO MID-AUGUST Stern Grove Midsummer Music Festival
LATE JUNE-JULY San Francisco International Lesbian & Gay Film Festival
JULY Fillmore Street Festival Fourth of July Waterfront Festival Jazz and All That Art Jazz and Wine at Embarcadero Center San Francisco Marathon
JULY-EARLY OCTOBER San Francisco Shakespeare Festival
21
Famous Citizens
Ansel Adams (1902–84), photographer. The “Beat” writers who were based in San Francisco in the 1950s, including Lawrence Ferlinghetti (b. 1920), Jack Kerouac (1922–69), and Allen Ginsberg (b. 1926). Ambrose Bierce (1842–1914), satirist. Herb Caen (1916–97), columnist. Philo Taylor Farnsworth (1906–71), inventor of the first all-electronic television. U.S. Senator Dianne Feinstein (b. 1933). Jerry Garcia (1942–95), leader of the rock group the Grateful Dead. Bill Graham (b. 1931), rock and roll promoter. Bret Harte (1836–1902), local-color author.
AUGUST A la Carte A la Park Nihonmachi Street Fair
SEPTEMBER Festival of the Culinary Arts Ghirardelli Square Chocolate Festival
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William Randoph Hearst (1863–1951), founder of a newspaper empire. Jack London (1876–1916), adventure writer.
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San Francisco John Muir (1838–1914), naturalist and founder of the Sierra Club. Frank Norris (1870–1902), naturalist. Randy Shilts (1951–1994), journalist, author, and AIDS activist. Leland Stanford (1824–93), businessman and philanthropist. Amy Tan (b. 1952), author. 22
For Further Study
Websites Cityguide Online. [Online] Available http:// www.ctguide.com/. (accessed October 14, 1999). Convention and Visitors Bureau. [Online] Available http://www.sfvisitor.org. (accessed October 14, 1999). San Francisco Guide. [Online] Available http:// www.sfguide.com/. (accessed October 14, 1999). San Francisco home page. [Online] Available http://www.wco.com/chldress/sfhome/ (accessed October 14, 1999).
Government Offices City Hall 401 Van Ness Avenue San Francisco, CA 94102 (415) 554-4000 Mayor’s Office 401 Van Ness Avenue, Rm. 336 San Francisco, CA 94102 (415) 554-6141 San Francisco Planning Commission 1660 Mission St. 5th Floor San Francisco, CA 94103 (415) 558-6414
Publications Golden State R.H.L./Golden State Inc. 555 Nineteenth St. San Francisco, CA 94107 San Francisco Business Times Magazine 275 Battery St., Suite 940 San Francisco, CA 94111 San Francisco Chronicle 901 Mission St. San Francisco, CA 94103-2988 San Francisco Examiner 110 Fifth St. San Francisco, CA 94103
Books Barrett, Liz. Frommer's Irreverent Guide to San Francisco. 2nd ed. New York: Macmillan Travel, 1998. Benton, Lisa M. The Presidio: From Army Post to National Park. Boston: Northeastern University Press, 1998. Caen, Herb. Baghdad by the Bay. Garden City, NY: Doubleday, 1949. Chester, Carole. San Francisco. New York: Longmeadow Press, 1994. Doss, Margot Patterson. The New San Francisco at Your Feet: Best Walks in a Walker's City. 3rd ed. New York: Grove Weidenfeld, 1991. Fong-Torres, Shirley. San Francisco Chinatown: A Walking Tour. San Francisco: China Books & Periodicals, 1991. Gold, Herbert. Bohemia: Where Art, Angst, Love, and Strong Coffee Meet. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1993. O’Reilly, James, Larry Habegger, and Sean O'Reilly. Travelers' Tales San Francisco. 1st ed. San Francisco: Travelers' Tales, Inc., 1996. Twain, Mark. Mark Twain’s San Francisco. New York: McGraw-Hill, 1963.
Videorecordings Tourist and Convention Bureaus San Francisco Convention and Visitors Bureau Convention Plaza 201 Third Street, Suite 900 San Francisco, CA 94103 (415) 974-6900
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Jaffe Productions in association with Hearst Entertainment Television. Golden Gate Bridge. [videorecording]. New York, NY: A&E Home Video, 1995. 50-min videocassette. Going Places. San Francisco. James Avery, host. MPI Home Video, 1998.
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Seattle Seattle, Washington, United States of America, North America Founded: 1851; Incorporated: 1869 Location: Washington State, on the eastern shore of Puget Sound Motto: Alki (“By and by,” state motto) Flower: Western rhododendron (state flower) Time Zone: 4 AM Pacific Standard Time (PST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: White, 75.3%; Black, 10.1%; Native American, 1.4%; Asian 11.2% Elevation: sea level to 137 m (450 ft) Latitude and Longitude: 47º60'N, 122º33'W Climate: Mild winters and cool summers, with a pronounced rainy season Annual Mean Temperature: 10.7ºC (51.3ºF); January 3.9ºC (39.1ºF); August 33.6ºC (65.6ºF) Seasonal Average Snowfall: 38 cm (15 in) Average Annual Precipitation (total of rainfall and melted snow): 91.8 cm (36.2 in) Government: Mayor-council Weights and Measures: Standard U.S. Monetary Units: Standard U.S. Telephone Area Codes: 206 Postal Codes: 98060; 98101–09; 98111–99
1
Introduction
Located on the eastern shore of Puget Sound, Seattle is the largest city in the state of Washington. Formerly a staid, conservative town built on the lumber, shipping, and aircraft industries and little known outside its immediate region, today Seattle has become one of the hottest locations in the country, a mecca for the computer software industry and a cultural trendsetter that originated the grunge rock of the early 1990s and the coffee craze that has swept across the United States. Its newfound business and cultural attrac-
tions, combined with a picturesque setting and mild climate, have created a population boom and made Seattle the commercial and cultural hub of the Pacific Northwest, as well as one of the fastest-growing metropolitan areas in the United States. 2
Getting There
Seattle is a city surrounded by both water and mountains. It is situated on a narrow but hilly isthmus between Puget Sound and Lake Washington. To the west lie the Olympic Mountains; Mount Rainier rises in the south; and
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Seattle
Seattle Population Profile
Route 520 also reaches Seattle from the east. Bus and Railroad Service
City Proper Population: 536,000 Area: 217 sq km (84 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 75.3% white; 10.1% black; 1.4% Native American; 11.2% Asian Nicknames: The Emerald City
Amtrak provides passenger service between Seattle and major destinations in the United States, and a variety of buslines connect Seattle with major cities in the United States and Canada.
Metropolitan Area Population: 2,084,000 Description: Seattle-Bellevue-Everett Area: 11,461 sq km (4,425 sq mi) World population rank1: 150 Percentage of national population2: 0.8% Average yearly growth rate: 1.5% Ethnic composition: 85.7% white; 4.6% black; 8.5% Asian/Pacific Islander ——— 1. The Seattle metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the United States’ total population living in the Seattle metropolitan area.
the Cascade mountain range is found to the east. In addition to the water that surrounds it, Lake Union and the Lake Washington Ship Canal run through the city.
Highways I-5, leading north to Portland and south toward Mexico, is the major north-south route that passes through Seattle; I-405 also runs north-south, but passes just east of Seattle, through Bellevue. From the east, I-90 is the major route offering access to the city. State
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Airport Seattle-Tacoma International Airport, located 21 kilometers (13 miles) from downtown Seattle’s business center, is the closest airport to Asia in the continental United States. In 1997, 24.7 million passengers passed through Seattle-Tacoma (also known as Sea-Tac), which is served by 41 airlines. Shipping Seattle boasts the fifth-largest container port in the United States. Encompassing over 182 hectares (450 acres) of handling space, it is served by 27 steamship lines and annually serves as a conduit for goods worth $37 billion. Fishmen’s Terminal is the home port for the U.S. North Pacific fishing fleet. Transcontinental rail service is provided by the Union Pacific and Burlington Northern railroads, which operate three inter-modal shipyards in Seattle. 3
Getting Around
The streets of the downtown area— which extends roughly north-south from Denny Way to Yesler Way, and east-west from Broadway to Elliott
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Seattle
Bay—are arranged in a grid pattern. Running parallel to the shoreline (beyond the first two streets, Alaskan Way and Western Avenue) are numbered avenues; named streets run perpendicular to the avenues.
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Bus and Commuter Rail Service A county-wide bus system serves the Seattle area, providing free service downtown. A transit plan, when implemented, will integrate public transpor-
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Seattle tation in the metropolitan area using light rail and commuter rail service. Sightseeing Bus tours of Seattle are offered by Gray Line tours. A variety of boat tours are available, including an all-day cruise of Puget Sound, as well as walking tours and a rail tour. 4
People
In 1990, the population of Seattle was 516,259, of which 75.3 percent were white, 11.2 percent Asian, 10.1 percent black, and 1.4 percent Native American. Hispanics (both white and black) accounted for 3.6 percent of the population. The population estimate for 1997 was 536,600, and the estimate for 2010 was 580,591. The population of the Seattle Primary Metropolitan Statistical Area was reported as 2,033,128 in 1990 and estimated at 2,268,126 for 1997. The region’s racial composition was listed by the U.S. Census Bureau in 1996 as 85.7 percent white; 8.5 percent Asian/ Pacific Islander; and 4.6 percent black. The percentage of residents of Hispanic origin (an ethnic rather than a racial designation) was 3.7 percent. Seattle has the second-highest percentage of baby boomers of any major U.S. city—31.5 percent (surpassed only by Denver, which has 32.8 percent). 5
Neighborhoods
Seattle’s main downtown retail area, situated atop a series of steep hills,
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runs roughly north-south from Pike Place Market to Pioneer Square and east-west from Seventh to First avenues. It combines historic buildings with steep skyscrapers and boasts a sophisticated array of retail establishments. At the southern edge of the downtown area is Pioneer Square, the historic heart of the city, where restored nineteenthcentury buildings house a colorful array of shops, galleries, and restaurants. Immediately to the southeast, the International District is home to the majority of the city’s substantial Asian population. In addition to a market brimming with fresh local produce and fish, the Pike Place Market area northwest of the main business district is also home to a variety of arts and crafts stores and restaurants, and a favorite haunt of street performers. Further north is Belltown, a “gentrified” former warehouse neighborhood whose lively assortment of restaurants and clubs makes it one of the prime centers of nightlife in the city. Still further from downtown, and just north of the Seattle Center, is the prestigious Queen Anne neighborhood. Yet further north, beyond the Lake Washington Ship Canal, lie Fremont, an interesting district known for its artists’ studios, ethnic restaurants, and offbeat shops, and Ballard, a former Scandinavian enclave that today is a popular entertainment venue. East of Fremont, the University District surrounding the University of Washington (or the U District, as it is known to locals) has the typical features of a college neighborhood. Nearby is Walling-
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Seattle
City Fact Comparison Seattle (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
2,084,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1851
753 BC
723 BC
$172
$129
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy) Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner) Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.) Total daily costs
$104
$193
$44
$56
$59
$62
$2
$14
$15
$16
$150
$173
$246
$207
Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
3
13
20
11
The Seattle Times
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
227,715
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1896
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
ford, an increasingly fashionable area known for its shops and restaurants. The Capitol Hill district northeast of downtown is a bastion of the area’s youth culture and also the center of its gay community. The upscale Madison Park neighborhood, located on the western shore of Lake Washington, is home to the University of Washington Arboretum. 6
History
Exploration of the Seattle region began in 1792, with the British captain George Vancouver (whose name today
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graces cities in both Washington state and British Columbia). However, the first permanent European settlers didn’t arrive until 1851, when a party of farmers from Illinois formed a community at the present-day site of Alki Point, west of the city. By the following year, they moved to the current site of downtown Seattle, east of Elliott Bay and gave it its present name in honor of Chief Sealth of the Suquamish Indians who were indigenous to the region. Although the first settlers were farmers, it soon became apparent that the region’s primary natural resource was lumber. Sawmills were built, and the city’s fledging timber industry
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Seattle
Mount Rainier provides a backdrop for the skyline of Seattle. (Nick Gunderson; Seattle-King County News Bureau)
found a ready market for its logs in San Francisco, which was enjoying a building boom following the 1849 gold rush. Seattle was incorporated in 1869. By 1889, it had a population of over 25,000 and was one of the major cities of the northwestern United States. However, that year disaster struck when the city’s entire business district—a total of 25 city blocks—burned down in a fire. The rebuilding of the city proved to be not only a reconstruction effort but also a major improvement, as a large-scale regrading of the city’s hills was done to resolve drainage and waste disposal problems, and the new streets
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were built on higher land. One of Seattle’s original seven hills—Denny Hill— was leveled altogether; today its name graces the neighborhood where it once stood. An important chapter in Seattle’s history opened with the discovery of gold in Alaska’s Yukon Valley (1898). The resulting Klondike gold rush brought new prosperity to Seattle, as prospectors stopped in the city to stock up on their way north and returned to spend much of their newfound wealth on their way back home. Seattle’s population grew to 80,600 by 1900 and tripled within the next decade. Seattle’s
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Seattle aerospace industry, which dominated the city’s economy for much of the century, had its beginnings in 1916, with the launch of the first airplane produced by William Boeing, an event that laid the foundation for the eventual establishment of the Boeing Company, which is still Seattle’s single-largest employer. The world wars brought new bursts of economic activity to Seattle. The city’s lumber resources were in demand during World War I (1914–18); during World War II (1939–45) Boeing won defense contracts for the B-17 and B-29 bombers and other weapons. Seattle’s population grew rapidly as new residents arrived from other parts of the country, attracted by jobs in the aerospace and shipbuilding industries. By the end of World War II the city’s population had reached almost half a million. In the post-war years, the growth of commercial aviation—Boeing once again at the forefront with the 707— provided an additional boost to Seattle’s economy. A landmark in Seattle’s twentieth-century history was the 1962 World’s Fair, which drew almost ten million visitors and left the city with its dominant landmark, the Space Needle (as well as the Monorail). The drawbacks of heavy dependence on a single economic sector were brought home in the 1970s, when reduced defense spending resulted in employment cutbacks at Boeing, leaving some 60,000 Seattle workers jobless and depressing the local economy for years. An increase in defense contracts
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A futuristic icon that gave Seattle a taste of the big league in the World’s Fair of 1962, the Space Needle has become a city symbol. (Nick Gunderson; Seattle-King County News Bureau)
and a booming Asian market for aircraft triggered a rebound in the 1980s. By then a new high-tech field—computers—had also entered the picture. In the last decades of the twentieth century, Microsoft, located in nearby Redmond, and a multitude of other software and computer-related firms that sprang up in the area added a major new feature to Seattle’s image and economy. As a new century dawned, Seattle found itself in the midst of a period of prosperity, growth, and development, as
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Seattle new technology helped it fulfill the futuristic promise plotted out years earlier. 7
Government
Seattle is governed by a mayor and a nine-member city council, all elected for four-year terms in nonpartisan elections held every odd-numbered year. Both the city’s revenues and its appropriations for fiscal year 1998 totaled $1.9 billion. 8
Public Safety
The Seattle Police Department is divided into north, south, east, and west precincts. The rapid population growth of the 1990s has brought with it a rising crime rate. In 1995, Seattle’s incidence of reported violent crimes per 100,000 population was 926, including eight murders, 49 rapes, and 418 robberies. The incidence of property crimes was 9,556 and included 1,452 burglaries, 6,793 cases of larceny/theft, and 1,311 motor vehicle thefts. 9
Economy
The Greater Seattle area is a leader in high-technology fields including computer software, electronics, environmental engineering, and biotechnology. Among its advantages as a business center are a well-educated and skilled work force, high-quality transportation and infrastructure resources, and strong manufacturing capabilities. The 469,802 full-time equivalent positions recorded for Seattle in the 1990 census are expected to grow to 521,878
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High technology companies have sprung up all around Seattle’s scenic Puget Sound. (Nick Gunderson; Seattle-King County News Bureau)
by 2000 and 597,836 by 2010. Seattle has a strong service-sector economy. Services account for 29 percent of Seattle’s jobs, wholesale and retail trade for 24 percent, and government for 16 percent, the same percentage as manufacturing. Top industrial fields are wood products, transportation equipment, food products, fish processing, and apparel design. Seattle is home to Microsoft, the world’s largest personal computer software company, and the region is also home to over 2,000 other software development companies. Also headquartered in Seattle is Boeing, the world’s biggest aircraft manufacturer. Other major companies located in Seat-
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Seattle tle include Costco, Weyerhaeuser, Paccar, Safeco, Nordstrom, Airborne Freight, and Starbucks. Seattle’s biotechnology enterprises generate revenue of over $2 billion a year, a figure that is expected to more than double by 2005.
More than 90 percent of Seattle’s residents participate in the city’s model curbside recycling program, which has reduced the volume of household-generated landfill waste by 40 percent.
The median family income for metropolitan Seattle in 1998 was $59,000.
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Environment
Environmental issues have a strong impact on Seattle, which was built on resource-based industries such as lumber and fishing. Even with the current dominance of the aerospace and hightech fields, these older industries continue to play an important role in the region’s economy. In recent years, logging practices—most notably clear-cutting—have come under fire from environmentalists, who have also raised the ire of those involved in the timber industry with their campaign to protect the forest habitat of the spotted owl. To save the old-growth forestland that serves as the birds’ habitat, logging on federal lands in the region has been restricted since the late 1980s. Salmon fishing has also raised environmental issues, including the debate over what to do about sea lions that feed on fish slowly making their way through the fish ladders built to facilitate their progress through the locks of area canals. When conservative efforts to discourage the sea lions failed, heated controversy arose over plans to have them killed.
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Shopping
With its mix of major department stores and smaller retailers, Seattle provides abundant shopping opportunities. Seattle’s premier shopping attraction is the Pike Place Market, which features dozens of stalls selling every kind of locally available produce and food item, as well as a wing devoted mostly to crafts by local artisans and a lower-level area featuring an eclectic variety of small specialty shops. The market neighborhood is also a center for household furnishings and furniture retailers. Seattle is the home of the nationwide Nordstrom chain, and Nordstrom’s flagship store at Pine Street and Fifth Avenue is one of two department stores that anchor the downtown shopping area—the other is Bon Marche. There is also a Nordstrom outlet for close-outs and returned merchandise called Nordstrom Rack. Also found in the downtown area is the main store of another Seattle-based retailer that has gone national—Eddie Bauer. Pioneer Square is home to a variety of small art galleries and independent shops, including antique stores, Oriental rug dealers, and the region’s premier bookstore, Elliott Bay Book Company.
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Seattle As of fall 1997, Seattle had a total enrollment of 47,457 in its public schools, with a racial and ethnic composition that was 40.6 percent white, 24.8 percent Asian/Pacific Islander, 23 percent black, 8.5 percent Hispanic, and 3.1 percent Native American. The public school district operated 116 schools and employed 2,450 classroom teachers and 4,636 support staff. There are over 300 private and parochial schools in the city. Seattle’s major universities (with their fall 1997 enrollments) are the University of Washington (34,368), Seattle University (5,091), and Seattle Pacific University (3,293). Community college enrollment on the three Seattle campuses totaled 25,545. Major research centers in the Seattle area include the Battelle Memorial Institute and the Washington Technology Center. Shopping opportunities are abundant in Seattle. Unique gift shops and art galleries can be found at Pioneer Square. (Nick Gunderson; Seattle-King County News Bureau)
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Education
According to the U.S. Census Bureau, Seattle ranks well above the national average in terms of the educational level of its population. Of persons age 25 or over, 86.4 percent have graduated from high school, and 37.9 percent have a bachelor’s degree or higher (compared with national averages of 82 percent and 23 percent, respectively).
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Health Care
With 26 acute-care hospitals and four specialized facilities, the Seattle metropolitan area is the leading health care center for the Pacific Northwest region. Altogether, the city has 4,500 hospital beds and some 3,000 physicians in clinical practice. The premier teaching hospital is the University of Washington Hospital. In 1997 the hospital, with 348 staffed beds, admitted 15,117 patients and logged 314,580 outpatient visits. Other well-known health care institutions are Children’s Hospital and the Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center. Seattle is also the
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Seattle home to a large number of free clinics and the Bailey-Boushay House, which has pioneered an inexpensive treatment setting for patients with AIDS. 14
Media
Seattle’s major daily newspapers (with 1998 circulation figures) are the Seattle Times (weekdays, 227,715; Sunday, 504,259) and the Seattle Post-Intelligencer (weekdays, 196,2271; Sunday, 504,259). The Seattle Daily Journal of Commerce, published Monday through Saturday covers the business community (1998 circulation 5,047). The Seattle Weekly and The Stranger are both alternative weekly newspapers with entertainment listing and local features. Papers serving Seattle’s ethnic communities include La Voz (15,000), the Korea Times (10,000), the Seattle Chinese Post (10,000), the Northwest Asian Weekly (10,000), and the Korea Central Daily (7,000). All major television networks have affiliates in Seattle, which has a total of eight commercial television stations, as well as cable channels offered by Viacom and TCI. Broadcasts by about 40 AM and FM radio stations provide news, music, and local features to the Seattle area. KUOW radio broadcasts programming by National Public Radio (NPR) and the BBC World Service. 15
Sports
Seattle fields teams in all majorleague sports. The American League’s Seattle Mariners played in the Kingdome from 1990 to 1998, when they
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moved to the new Safeco Field. The Kingdome, which was imploded on March 26, 2000, was also the home of the National Football League’s Seattle Seahawks. A new stadium for footbal and soccer is scheduled to open in 2002. The Seattle Super Sonics of the National Basketball Association compete in the Seattle Center Auditorium. Seattle also has a women’s basketball team, the Reign. The Seattle Thunderbirds Hockey Club also plays at the Seattle Center. Also popular with Seattle sports fans are the University of Washington Huskies football team, which plays at Husky Stadium, and the university’s women’s basketball team. 16
Parks and Recreation
Seattle’s public park system extends over more than 2,024 hectares (5,000 acres). Landscape architects John Charles Olmsted and Frederick Olmsted Jr. (sons of famed planner Frederick Law Olmsted, 1822–1903) designed many of the city’s parks, which today number around 400. Among the most popular parks are Waterfall Gardens (which boasts a seven-meter/22-foot waterfall in the heart of downtown); Volunteer Park (a graceful park that includes lily ponds and a conservatory); Green Lake (whose paved five-kilometer/3.2-mile path is popular with joggers and in-line skaters); Discovery Park (a 208-hectare/ 513-acre wilderness park that encompasses broad meadows, dense forests, and steep sea cliffs); and Gas Works
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Seattle Park (created on the former property of a gas-processing plant). Alki Beach on the shore of Puget Sound is a popular summertime site for swimming, picknicking, and volleyball. Seattle also abounds in outstanding garden centers, including Bloedel Reserve, the Herbfarm, Kubota Gardens, Pacific Rim Bonsai Collection, Rhododendron Species Botanical Garden, the University of Washington Medicinal Herb Garden, Woodland Park Rose Garden, and the Carl S. English Jr. Botanical Gardens. The Seattle Tilth Demonstration Gardens offer instruction to gardeners at all levels. Popular outdoor pursuits in the Seattle area include bicycling, golf (with more than a dozen public courses), and hiking in the surrounding region, which includes three national parks. The city’s maritime location makes an excellent location for such water sports as fishing, kayaking and canoeing, sailboarding, and sailing. 17
Performing Arts
Seattle has a lively theater scene, with flourishing mainstream and experimental troupes. The city’s best-known theater company is the Intiman Theatre, which staged the area premiere of Tony Kushner’s Pulitzer Prize-winning drama Angels in America. A Contemporary Theatre, housed in Queen Anne Hall, an elegant historic facility with three contrasting performance spaces, displays the talents of local actors and, occasionally, big-name guest stars. Seattle Repertory Theatre, the city’s oldest,
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is known for its lavish, high-quality productions. Alternative theater groups include the Empty Space Theatre, Printer’s Devil Theatre, and A Theatre Under the Influence. Seattle is also known for its annual three-week Seattle Fringe Theatre Festival. Improvisation can be seen regularly at Theatre-Sports, and the Comedy Underground is the city’s major comedy club. The Seattle Symphony, which performs at Benaroya Concert Hall, has distinguished itself under the direction of Gerard Schwartz, who has been its musical director since 1984. Seattle also supports the only chamber orchestra in the Pacific Northwest, the Seattle Orchestra, which performs works for small ensembles written between the seventeenth and twentieth centuries. The Seattle Opera stages full-scale productions of five operas every year, including a summertime performance of the Ring cycle by Richard Wagner. The Pacific Northwest Ballet, which performs at Seattle’s Opera House, is the region’s premier ballet troupe. Seattle is also home to the Allegro Dance Festival, a dance ensemble that focuses on ethnic dance and new works by area choreographers. The home of the “grunge rock” of the early 1990s, Seattle has a lively popular music scene that encompasses jazz, rock, and “world beat” as well as Latin, Celtic, and other types of ethnic music, reflecting the growing diversity and cultural sophistication of its population. Popular music is performed at numerous venues throughout Seattle, including the area’s many cafes and pubs.
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Seattle
Seattle’s prime location on the waterfront offers residents and guests alike a variety of outdoor recreational activities such as sailing, fishing and kayaking. Visitors can tour the waterways in a more relaxed fashion on many of Seattle’s guided tour cruises. (Nick Gunderson; Seattle-King County News Bureau)
In addition to the standard complement of modern multiplex movie theaters, Seattle has a good selection of art houses that show foreign films and revivals, and the Seattle International Film Festival entertains movie buffs annually for three weeks in late May and June. 18
Libraries and Museums
Founded in 1891, the Seattle Public Library operates a central library downtown and 23 neighborhood branches.
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With a total of 865,732 book titles and 1,776,672 volumes, the library serves a population of more than half a million and employs a staff of 421. Its special collections cover subject areas including aviation history, genealogy, and Seattle history. Annual circulation totals nearly five million items. Located in the center of downtown, the Seattle Art Museum is housed in a striking building designed by architect Robert Venturi (b. 1925) and completed in 1991. The museum is known especially for its Asian, African, and
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Seattle modern art collections. The facility includes a large gallery for locally mounted special exhibitions and traveling exhibits, a 300-seat auditorium, and a Japanese gallery with an authentic teahouse. (Currently, the museum’s outstanding Asian collection is actually housed in its original building, which has been renamed the Seattle Asian Art Museum.) The Charles and Emma Frye Art Museum, remodeled and expanded in 1997, houses the nineteenth-century painting collection of its founders, as well as a variety of other nineteenthand twentieth-century paintings and presents an eclectic schedule of musical performances, poetry readings, and other activities, as well as temporary exhibits. The Bellevue Art Museum specializes in works by regional artists, and the newly expanded Henry Art Gallery at the University of Washington features an excellent permanent photography collection, as well as exhibits highlighting a variety of new media, including video. The Museum of Flight (often referred to as the Boeing Museum of Flight) honors Seattle’s history as a capital of aviation. The museum’s exhibits retell the history of flight and include replicas of the early glider flown by the Wright brothers, the Apollo and Mercury space capsules, and Air Force One. The Seattle Center is home to the Pacific Science Center and the Children’s Museum, both of which feature hands-on exhibits for children and adults.
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To u r i s m
Seattle’s relatively recent transformation into a trend-setting, high-profile city has brought an increase in tourism and tourist facilities. In addition to the city’s mild climate and picturesque location amid water, forestland, and mountains, visitors are drawn by its bustling cultural and commercial life, the recreational opportunities that are available, and Seattle’s growing reputation as a mecca for contemporary youth culture. Today the metropolitan area boasts 17,500 hotel and motel rooms. The Seattle Center, the city’s main conference and convention facility, offers 3,995 square meters (43,000 square feet) of exhibition space, eight large conference rooms, and banquet seating for 1,500 people. Seattle is also the site of the Washington State Convention and Trade Center, conveniently located on I-5, the major artery that passes through the city. The Battelle Conference Center on the University of Washington campus is often used to host meetings, and the Kingdome sports stadium is a popular venue for trade shows. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Seattle International Boat Show
FEBRUARY Festival Sundiata Northwest Flower & Garden Show
MARCH Seattle Fringe Festival
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Seattle APRIL Cherry Blossom & Japanese Cultural Festival Imagination Celebration
MAY Cinco de Mayo Celebration Northwest Folklife Festival University District Street Fair
MAY-JUNE Seattle International Film Festival
JUNE-AUGUST AT&T Summer Nights at the Pier
JULY-AUGUST Seafair Summer Festival
JULY Bite of Seattle Family Fourth at Lake Union Indian Pow Wow Fourth of Jul-Ivars at the Waterfront Pioneer Square Fire Festival
AUGUST Bubble Festival Eatonville Arts Festival
AUGUST-SEPTEMBER Bumbershoot Festival
SEPTEMBER Fiesta Patrias
OCTOBER Salmon Days Festival
NOVEMBER Hmong New Year’s Celebration Seattle Marathon
DECEMBER Holiday Parade of Boats Cruise Winterfest
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Famous Citizens
Novelist and essayist Mary McCarthy (1912–89). Rock star Kurt Cobain (1967–94). Microsoft founder Bill Gates (b. 1955).
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Founder of Boeing Aircraft, William Boeing (1881–1956). Singer/songwriter Judy Collins (b. 1939). Guitarist Jimi Hendrix (1942–70). Novelist and satirist Tom Robbins (b. 1936). Entertainer Gypsy Rose Lee (1914–70). 22
For Further Study
Websites Greater Seattle InfoGuide [Online] Available http: //www.seattleinfoguide.com/ (accessed December 8, 1999). Seattle City Net. [Online] Available http: // city.net/countries/united_states/ washington/seattle/ (accessed December 8, 1999). Seattle Home Page. [Online] Available http: // www.seattle.net/SeattleHome.html (accessed December 8, 1999).
Government Offices Seattle City Hall 600 4th Ave. Seattle, WA 98104 (206) 386-1234 Mayor’s Office 600 4th Ave., 12th Fl. Seattle, WA 98104 (206) 684-4000 King County 516 3rd Ave., Rm. 400 Seattle, WA 98104 (206) 296-4040
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Seattle-King County Convention & Visitors Bureau 520 Pike St., Suite 1300 Seattle, WA 98101 (206) 461-5840
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Seattle Washington State Convention & Trade Center 800 Convention P. Seattle, WA 98101 (206) 447-5000
Publications Puget Sound Business Journal 720 3rd Ave. Suite 800 Seattle, WA 98104 Seattle Post-Intelligencer 101 Elliott Ave. W Seattle, WA 98119 Seattle Times P.O. Box 70 Seattle, WA 98111
Books Beebe, Morton. Cascadia: A Tale of Two Cities, Seattle and Vancouver, B.C. Photographs by Morton Beebe; essays by J. Kingston Pierce. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1996. Crowley, Walt. Rites of Passage: A Memoir of the Sixties in Seattle. Seattle, Washington: University of Washington Press, 1995. Egan, Timothy. The Good Rain: Across Time and Terrain in the Pacific Northwest. New York: Knopf, 1990.
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Morgan, Murray. Skid Road. New York: Viking Press, 1960. Ochsner, Jeffrey Karl, ed. Shaping Seattle Architecture: A Historical Guide to the Architects. Seattle, Washington: University of Washington Press, 1994. Reed, Wilson Edward. The Politics of Community Policing: The Case of Seattle. New York: Garland, 1999. Roe, Jo Ann. Seattle Uncovered. Plano, Texas: Seaside Press, 1995. Smith, Giselle. Seattle Best Places. Seattle, Washington: Sasquatch Books, 1999. Taylor, Quintard. The Forging of a Black Community. Seattle: University of Washington Press, 1994. Tisdale, Sallie. Stepping Westward: The Long Search for Home in the Pacific Northwest. New York: Henry Holt, 1991.
Videorecordings Alki, Birthplace of Seattle. Produced, directed and written by B.J. Bullert; a presentation of the Southwest Seattle Historical Society and KCTS Television. Seattle, Washington: Distributed by Wehman Video, 1997. 1 videocassette (28 min.): sd., col.; 1/2 in.
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Sydney Sydney, New South Wales, Australia Founded: 1788; Incorporated: 1842 Location: Southeastern Australia Flower: Banksia Ericifolia Time Zone: 10 PM Australian Eastern Standard Time (AEST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Elevation: 42 m (138 ft) above sea level Latitude and Longitude: 33º55'S, 151º10'E Coastline: 60 km (37 mi) Climate: Temperate with mild winters and warm to hot summers Annual Mean Temperature: 12ºC (54ºF); January 9ºC (48ºF); July 23ºC (73ºF) Average Annual Precipitation (total rainfall): 1,140 mm (45 in) Government: Local councils Weights and Measures: Metric system Monetary Units: Australian dollars Telephone Area Codes: 2 (Sydney area code); 61 (country code for Australia) Postal Codes: 2000–2060
1
Introduction
In the space of two centuries, Sydney has transformed itself from a British penal colony to a thriving cosmopolitan metropolis, a financial capital of the Asia-Pacific region, and an international tourist center with a population of close to four million. Located near the southern end of Australia’s eastern coast, it is the largest city on the Australian continent, the capital of New South Wales, and one of the world’s largest metropolitan areas. The city’s dominant feature has always been its stunning physical location on one of the world’s most beautiful harbors.
In the second half of the twentieth century, Sydney grew from a primarily Anglo-Saxon enclave to a multiethnic city whose cultural sophistication is symbolized by the unique outlines of its famous harbor-front opera house. The twenty-first century was ushered in dramatically with the 2000 Olympic Games, which spurred the city to reinvent itself yet again for a new millennium. 2
Getting There
Centered around the Port Jackson harbor on Australia’s east coast, Sydney is 870 kilometers (540 miles) north of Melbourne and nearly 1,000 kilometers
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Sydney
Sydney Population Profile Population: 3,665,000 Area: 1,735 sq km (670 sq mi) World population rank1: 71 Percentage of national population2: 19.5% Average yearly growth rate: 0.4% Nicknames: CBD (central city), Sidneysiders (residents), Oz (Australia) ——— 1. The Sydney metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of Australia’s total population living in the Sydney metropolitan area.
(621 miles) south of Brisbane. The greater metropolitan area encompasses Botany Bay to the south, reaches to the foothills of the Blue Mountains in the west, and extends into an area of national parks to the north. Highways Four main highways provide access to Sydney: the Pacific Highway/Sydney Newcastle Freeway (Route 1 north of the city) leads northward to Newcastle and Brisbane; the Western Motorway (Route 44) leads westward to Strathfield and the Great Western Highway; Princes Highway (Route 1 south of the city) leads to Wollongong and the south coast; and the Hume Highway leads southwest out of the city to Mittagong and eventually Melbourne. Bus and Railroad Service vice
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Greyhound Pioneer provides serbetween Sydney and points
throughout Australia. The smaller McCafferty’s and Kirkland’s lines also service Sydney but do not run nationwide. Both interstate and regional train service is available. The State Rail Authority of New South Wales provides passenger rail services throughout Greater Sydney and other population centers in the state. Its Countrylink service provides long-distance service throughout New South Wales, and also interstate service to Canberra, Melbourne, and Brisbane on an updated fleet of high-speed XPT and Explorer trains, transporting more than 2.6 million people annually. Airports The Kingsford Smith Airport, located about ten kilometers (6.2 miles) south of Sydney’s central business district, is Australia’s busiest airport. It is served by some 45 international passenger and cargo carriers. Shipping Sydney is served by Port Jackson, one of Australia’s busiest ports, as well as a newer port in Botany Bay devoted exclusively to petroleum products. 3
Getting Around
Sydney is built around a vast harbor with many coves, bays, and inlets. The harbor runs through the city, dividing it into northern and southern sections, which are connected by the Harbour Tunnel and the Sydney Harbour Bridge. The central business district and heart of the city is contained
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Sydney
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Sydney within the 13 square kilometers (five square miles) of a narrow peninsula in the southern half. Bus and Commuter Rail Service Sydney Buses operates buses throughout the city. Bus service is divided into seven zones, with the main terminals located at Circular Quay, Wynyard, Town Hall, and Central Station. Buses serve some areas, including the suburbs of Watsons, Rose Bay, and Vaucluse, which are not on rail lines. CityRail, operated by the State Rail Authority, provides suburban and intercity rail service over a 3,218-kilometer (2,000-mile) network throughout New South Wales. With 301 stations and over 2,000 trips per day, CityRail carried 266.5 million passengers in 1997–98. Sydney also has a light rail line providing tram service from Central Station to stops in the central city and a monorail that loops through the central business district. Ferries Sydney’s popular ferry service, operated by the Sydney Transportation Authority, provides a picturesque and inexpensive mode of local transportation. Ferries cross Sydney’s harbor between Circular Quay and the north bank, also traveling to points eastward and westward. Sightseeing A variety of organized tours of Sydney are offered. Popular tour lines include Australian Pacific, AAT King’s,
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Newmans, Murrays, Great Sights, and Clipper Gray Line tours. Tours are offered to a variety of sites outside the city. These include tours focusing on Aboriginal culture and Australian wildlife. In addition, Sydney’s ferries afford a unique sightseeing experience. Harbor cruises take visitors to the area’s parks, beaches, coves, suburbs, and other sites. Cruises with commentary are offered regularly on the city-operated ferries on both weekdays and weekends. Harbor cruises are also offered by commercial lines. 4
People
With its population of 3,738,500, Sydney is at the center of the largest concentration of population in the sparsely populated country of Australia. It is home to more than two-thirds of the population of New South Wales, and about a quarter of the country’s total inhabitants live within 150 kilometers (93 miles) of the city. Since World War II (1939–45), the city, formerly inhabited mostly by descendants of white settlers from the British Isles, has become increasingly diverse ethnically and racially. Following the war, there was an influx of immigrants from eastern and southern Europe, especially Italy and Greece, as well as Turkey and Yugoslavia. The period since the 1960s has seen a rise in Asian immigration from countries including Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia, and the Philippines. Today, about 30 percent of the population is foreignborn. Sydney’s inner-city district of
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Sydney
The City Rail is an easy way to get around the city. (Mike Yamashita; Woodfin Camp)
Redfern is an Aboriginal enclave, populated by a group known as Koories. 5
Neighborhoods
Thanks to the spread of new suburbs along the estuaries of the Georges and Parramatta rivers during the twentieth century, the greater Sydney area encompasses some 600 suburbs between the Pacific Ocean, the Blue Mountains, and the national parks that border it on the north and south, covering a total area of nearly 1,813 square kilometers (700 square miles). This makes it one of the world’s largest urban areas, surpassed only by Los Angeles and a few others. Traditionally, well-to-do Australians moved outward to the suburbs, leaving the inner core to
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immigrant populations from Europe and Asia. Today, however, many are returning to the historic districts first established by their forebears, sparking a wave of urban renovation and gentrification. Sydney’s major urban center is the Central Business District, located on the south bank of the Parramatta River at Port Jackson. In addition to government buildings, office towers, and shops, it is also the site of the city’s major tourist attractions, including its opera house and major museums, and the Royal Botanic Gardens. Urban neighborhoods close to this central core include King’s Cross, a district of hotels, restaurants, and hostels that has historically had a reputation as the city’s “vice capital”; the historic Woolloomooloo
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Sydney district, restored since the 1970s; trendy Darlinghurst, home to numerous sidewalk cafes and Sydney’s “Little Italy”; the multicultural, gentrified Surry Hills area; and the residential suburb of Paddington. Further south is the workingclass suburb of Redfern, which has a large and sometimes vocal Aboriginal community. To the east are a series of upscale suburbs including Darling Point, Edgecliff, Double Bay, and Vaucluse, the most exclusive one. The innermost suburbs to the west include the fashionable Balmain district, formerly a working-class and bohemian neighborhood; the traditionally Italian and now diverse neighborhood of Leichhardt; Glebe, located near the University of Sydney; and the hip university district of Newtown. Across the Parramatta River, the Lower North Shore, north of the Harbour Bridge, encompasses a business district and harbor-front suburbs, including Kirribilli, Milson’s Point, and McMahons Point. 6
History
Sydney’s first European settlers arrived in 1788, when English navigator Captain Arthur Phillip’s First Fleet arrived in Botany Bay to the south. Finding the bay too exposed, Phillips and his men traveled northward to Port Jackson, proclaiming the colony of New South Wales and establishing a settlement on a cove they named for Britain’s Home Secretary, Lord Thomas Townshend, First Viscount Sydney (1733– 1800). Of the more than 1,000 people
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aboard the fleet’s ships, most were British convicts transported to the new land to relieve prison overcrowding now that the British colonies in North America had won their independence and could no longer be used for this purpose. The first free settlers arrived in 1793. Under the leadership of Governor Lachlan Macquarie (1761–1824; governor, 1810–1821), the new settlement prospered. Many convicts, pardoned and given parcels of land, became useful members of society. Free settlers continued to pour in, lured by promises of free land and convict labor and by Sydney’s growing reputation as a thriving port city. Between 1831 and 1850, some 200,000 immigrants arrived from Britain, fleeing the social ills of the Industrial Revolution. Exploration of the interior led to the discovery of a route over the Blue Mountains, providing access to the rich pastureland beyond. Sydney was incorporated in 1842. The discovery of gold west of Sydney, at Bathurst, in 1851 spurred a decade-long gold rush that helped bring the city’s population to 300,000. Rail service from Sydney to Parramatta was launched in 1855. As Sydney became a bustling commercial center, its original central district acquired some of the same problems that settlers had fled Britain to escape—overcrowding, poverty, crime, and unsanitary conditions. In the second half of the century, overcrowding spurred the growth of densely populated suburbs around the city, creating the greatest population explosion
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Sydney
Sydney skyline. (G. Clifford; Woodfin Camp)
to date—from 60,000 to 400,000. Shortly after the end of World War I (1914–18), Sydney, now part of the Commonwealth of Australia, recorded a population of one million. The Snowy Mountains Hydro-Electric Project, begun after World War II (1939–45), brought important changes to Sydney. Most notably, the resulting demand for manpower sparked immigration policy changes that led to growth in immigration from southern Europe, permanently changing the ethnic makeup of the city. Further changes came with the rise in immigration from Southeast Asia in the 1970s and 1980s.
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During this period, Sydney, along with the rest of Australia, grew increasingly cosmopolitan, becoming a financial center for the Asia/Pacific region. Sydney’s most famous landmark, the harbor-front Sydney Opera House, was completed in 1973. In 1988 the city staged a spectacular celebration of Australia’s bicentennial. Landmark events of the 1990s included the 1993 announcement that the city would be the site of the 2000 Olympic Games and the opening of the Sydney Harbour Tunnel in 1994. Preparations for the Games spurred further municipal development and civic pride
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Sydney
City Fact Comparison Indicator
Sydney (Australia)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
3,665,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1788
753 BC
723 BC
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$114
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$74
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$18
$14
$15
$16
$206
$173
$246
$207
Total daily costs Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city
11
13
20
11
Largest newspaper
Sunday Telegraph
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
Circulation of largest newspaper
1,800,000
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1939
1944
1976
1948
Date largest newspaper was established 1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
throughout the decade as Sydney prepared for the most extensive display of pageantry and celebration in its history. 7
Government
As capital of New South Wales, Sydney is the seat of its government and parliament. More than 40 city councils throughout Sydney handle local matters although the state government retains authority in some areas, including transportation and public safety. In addition, some of Sydney’s land is under control of Australia’s federal government. The City Council of Sydney has jurisdiction over a 13-square-kilometer (five-square-mile) core area that
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includes the Central Business District and some inner suburbs. The Sydney Statistical Division, established in 1976 and covering 12,407 square kilometers (4,790 square miles), corresponds to territory that was expected to undergo urban development over the next two decades. It was created from a combination of developed and rural land. 8
Public Safety
For a major city, Sydney has a low crime rate. Few people own firearms, which are strictly regulated, and it is even illegal to carry a knife in a public
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Sydney place without a special reason. Occasional muggings have occurred in the Central Business District, and drug activity has been reported in the Kings Cross and Cabramatta areas. Sydney is served by the New South Wales Police Service, Australia’s oldest law-enforcement organization. With more than 13,300 sworn police officers and 500 police stations, it is also one of the largest in the English-speaking world. In addition to its regular duties, the New South Wales Police force was assigned the task of coordinating security for the Sydney 2000 Olympic and Paralympic Games. The City of Sydney has adopted the Safe City Strategy to improve security even further through urban design: improved lighting, closed circuit television cameras, emergency video phones, a city safety task force, and community safety education. 9
Economy
Sydney is Australia’s financial, commercial, shipping, and industrial capital. About 75 percent of the manufacturing jobs in New South Wales are in Sydney although manufacturing accounts for between one-third and one-half of the city’s total employment. Sydney primarily has a service economy, fueled by government, commerce, retailing, transport, entertainment, finance, and tourism. Oil refining is another major industry in the region. About half of Sydney’s work force is employed in manufacturing.
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Environment
Water pollution from refuse and industrial effluents has been a problem in Sydney’s harbor, especially from the overflow caused by heavy rain. The city has installed pollution traps and litter booms to deal with the problem. Residents who live near the Kingsford Smith Airport have been affected by aircraft noise, a problem that authorities have attempted to respond to by rearranging aircraft flight paths. Awareness of air pollution is promoted by the publication of pollution levels daily in the newspaper as part of the weather report. Increased use of public transportation has helped reduce emission levels. In 1995 the City of Sydney announced its goal of reducing waste 60 percent by 2000 through the Waste Minimization and Management Act. The government encourages citizens to avoid waste wherever possible, reuse items, and recycle. Commercial waste services provided to the city’s businesses include seven-day-a-week collection, glass and paper recycling, bulk waste removal, and varied container sizes. Preparation for the 2000 Olympic Games included several environmental measures, including a cleanup of the city’s beaches and waterways. In addition, all power to the Olympic Village was provided by solar energy.
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Sydney 11
Shopping
The major shopping area in the central city is located between Park and King streets, on George, Castlereagh, and Pitt streets. The heart of this district is the Pitt Street Mall between Market and King streets, a pedestrian mall with chain stores and several arcades. The historic and beautiful Queen Victoria Building on George Street offers four levels of shops, including designer outlets, duty-free shops, and craft and souvenir stores, as well as cafes and restaurants. Shopping in an elegant historic venue is also available at the Strand Arcade, a lovingly restored 1892 structure with shops on three levels. Also located in this district are the Royal, Imperial, and Centrepoint arcades. Located on Castlereagh Street are the Skygarden, which features both stores and art galleries on seven levels; the upscale Chifley Plaza; Piccadilly; the exclusive MLC Centre; and Sydney’s premier department store, David Jones’. The two other main shopping areas in central area are the Rocks, a historic harbor-front district to the north, where the largest retail complex is the Argyle Centre, and at the western end of the city, the Darling Harbour Area where the Harbourside complex offers some 200 shops. Also located in this area is Chinatown, whose retailers stock clothing, housewares, and ethnic foods. In North Sydney the largest shopping complex is Greenwood Plaza. Additional shopping is available at Sydney’s colorful markets. Some of the best flea markets are located in the east-
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ern suburbs of Paddington, Woollahra, and Surry Hills. The most famous and eclectic is the Paddington Bazaar, which actually operates at two locations. The Balmain Market also provides great variety, together with the local color of this historic district. Aboriginal art, although largely produced in other parts of Australia, is available in several of Sydney’s shops and galleries. 12
Education
Public education in Sydney, as elsewhere in Australia, is managed and mostly funded at the state level, with the federal government also providing some funding. Primary and secondary education is compulsory, with students required to attend school between the ages of six and 15. Students may attend either public or private (mostly Roman Catholic) schools. The Sydney metropolitan area is home to three universities: the University of Sydney (founded in 1850), Australia’s oldest university and an internationally respected teaching and research institution; the University of New South Wales, which enrolls over 32,000 students in its 75 schools; and Macquarie University. 13
Health Care
Like other parts of Australia, Sydney has excellent medical care and facilities, and universal health care for all its residents. Sydney’s public hospitals are New Children’s Hospital, Prince
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Sydney Henry Hospital, Royal Prince Alfred Hospital, Royal North Shore Hospital, St. Vincent’s Hospital, Sydney Hospital & Sydney Eye Hospital, and Sydney Children’s Hospital. There are also six teaching hospitals connected with the medical program at the University of New South Wales. 14
Media
Sydney’s oldest and most respected newspaper is the Sydney Morning Herald, which is regarded as one the top newspapers in the country. Established in 1831, it is published six times a week; in 1998 the Herald had a circulation of 266,000 on weekdays and 400,000 on Saturday. The Herald publishes detailed entertainment guides every Friday and Saturday. Sydney’s other daily newspaper is the Daily Telegraph Mirror, a tabloid publication also published six days a week, with 1998 circulation figures of 442,980 weekdays and 331,666 Saturdays. The Australian Financial Review (circulation 78,000), published daily five days a week, is a national newspaper and Australia’s most authoritative source for business news. Also published in Sydney is the national conservative daily, the Australian. Sydney also has another business newspaper, the Daily Commercial News. A number of weekly newspapers serve Sydney’s varied ethnic communities, and the free weekly On the Street offers popular music listings. The national news magazine the Bulletin is also published in Sydney.
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Sydney has five television channels, two of which are noncommercial and government funded. Among Sydney’s more than 20 radio stations are regular and youth-oriented public broadcasting stations, a classical music station, an Aboriginal station, and a multilingual station. 15
Sports
The most popular spectator sport in Sydney is one of the four types of rugby: rugby league. Major matches, including the Optus Cup championship games, are held at the Sydney Football Stadium. Also played in Sydney is the unique football game known as Australian (“Aussie”) Rules, for which the city fields the Sydney Swans, the only team in New South Wales. Another favorite is the summertime sport of cricket, played at the Sydney Cricket Ground at Moore Park. Other spectator sports include tennis, for which the major tournament is the New South Wales Open, professional golf, horse racing, greyhound racing, and boat races in the harbor. In 1999, Sydney prepared to host the biggest sporting and cultural event in its history—the XXVII Olympiad. The Olympic Games placed Sydney in the spotlight before some 3.5 billion television viewers worldwide, plus as many as half a million guests from elsewhere in Australia and around the world. The Olympiad was followed on October 18 by the Paralympic Games for athletes with disabilities.
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Sydney 16
Parks and Recreation
The steel and concrete of Sydney’s urban landscape are relieved by a number of city parks. Three contiguous parks are located in the eastern part of the Central Business District: the Royal Botanic Gardens, established in 1816 and covering 30 hectares (74 acres), mark the site of Sydney’s first farm. They include a rose garden, a lake, tropical greenhouses with an extensive collection of plants from the South Pacific, a bat colony, and a cactus garden. To the south lies a large park known as the Domain, which serves as a popular setting for picnics, lunch breaks, public speakers of all kinds, and a variety of free events. Further south, and bisected by Park Street, is Hyde Park, which includes formal gardens, fountains, and walkways, and is also a popular lunchtime spot for urban workers. Smaller parks in the central city include Wynyard Park, Lang Park, First Fleet Park, and Observatory Park. South and east of the Central Business District, Centennial Park in Paddington is Sydney’s largest park, at 220 hectares (544 acres). In addition to picnicking and swimming in its lake, visitors can take advantage of both bicycling and bridle paths or rent inline skates. Adjacent Moore Park, bordering Surry Hills, has walking and bicycling trails, a golf course, and playing fields. It is also the location of the Sydney Cricket Ground and Sydney Football Stadium. The most recent addition to Moore Park is Fox Studios’ Bent Street
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entertainment complex, which gives visitors a behind-the-scenes look at movie and television production, including movie props and other memorabilia, special effects, and animation. Sydney Olympic Park was in the suburb of Homebush Bay, located 14 kilometers (8.7 miles) west of the central city, built for the 2000 Olympic Games. The park encompassed Sydney International Athletic Centre, Sydney International Aquatic Centre, as well as the Leisure Garden featuring a variety of natural habitats. In addition to its own urban and suburban parks, Sydney is ringed by national parks. The KuRing-Gai Chase National Park is located to the north, and the Royal National Park is situated to the south. To the west is the Blue Mountain National Park, and even more parks ring the region further away. Sydney’s waterfront location makes it a paradise for water sports. Residents and visitors can enjoy canoeing, kayaking, windsurfing, sailing, scuba diving, surfing, and swimming at any of more than 30 beaches. Other popular outdoor activities include bicycling, golf, horseback riding, walking and jogging, rock climbing, squash, and tennis. A unique recreational sport launched in 1998 is climbing the 503-meter-long (1,650-foot-long) arch of the Harbour Bridge. Climbers sign a release form and undergo an orientation session before beginning the two-hour trek. The summit of the bridge affords a panoramic view of the harbor.
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Sydney 17
Performing Arts
The Sydney Opera House, an architectural landmark completed in 1973 after 14 years of construction, is the city’s performing arts headquarters, encompassing an opera theater, concert hall, and playhouse. The complex consists of three interconnected sections that cover 1.8 hectares (4.4 acres) and can seat more than 5,100 people altogether. It provides a performance venue for the Australian Opera, the Australian Ballet, the Sydney Opera House Drama Theatre, the Sydney Philharmonia Choir, Musica Viva Australia, and the Sydney Symphony Orchestra. The Sydney Symphony Orchestra gives more than 140 concerts a year (many at Town Hall on George Street). In addition to concerts by the Symphony Orchestra, Musica Viva, and the Philharmonia Choir, classical music can also be heard regularly at the Conservatorium of Music and at Sydney’s universities.
The concrete setting is broken up by the multitude of parks that are scattered throughout Sydney. Luna Park offers fun for everyone. (Robert Frerck; Woodfin Camp)
The Australian Ballet, which has an international reputation, presents four concerts a year at the Sydney Opera House and tours throughout Australia. The Sydney Dance Company (SDC) is Australia’s premier modern dance troupe, performing at both Pier Four and the Opera House. The Sydney Theatre Company performs both plays from the standard repertory and works by Australian authors. Beside the Opera House, Sydney’s other major theater venues are Her Majesty’s Theatre, the Seymour Theatre Centre,
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Theatre Royal MLC Centre, and Wharf Theatre Pier 4. Smaller theaters around town offer experimental theater. Aboriginal dance is performed by Bangarra Dance Company, the Aboriginal Dance Theatre, the Aboriginal Islander Dance Theatre, Gavala, and other groups. Sydney also has a thriving jazz scene, based at clubs such as Kinselas, the Basement, and the Harbourside Brasserie.
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Sydney
The Sydney Opera House is an architectural landmark housing the Australian Opera, the Australian Ballet, the Sydney Opera House Drama Theatre, the Sydney Philharmonia Choir, Musica Viva Australia, and the Sydney Symphony Orchestra. (Mike Yamashita; Woodfin Camp)
18
Libraries and Museums
The City of Sydney Library, founded in 1826, has three branches: the newly renovated Town Hall branch, Haymarket, and Ultimo. A total of over 250,000 items are found in the library’s catalogue. The three branches are used by an average of 3,000 people a day, and between 50,000 and 60,000 items are borrowed every month. The Jessie Street National Women’s Library focuses on promoting awareness of the cultural heritage of Australian women
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by collecting and preserving documents relating to the lives and experience of women from all ethnic and racial backgrounds, highlighting their contribution to Australian history, and providing information on current resources for women. The Australian Museum houses the country’s largest natural history collection. It includes a gallery devoted to Aboriginal history. The Art Gallery of New South Wales, at the edge of the Domain park in the central city, has permanent European, Japanese, and
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Sydney Australian collections and temporary exhibits. The Museum of Contemporary Art, fronting the Circular Quay, is noted for its collection of modern art, and the Museum of Sydney, near Macquarie Place, focuses on all aspects of the city’s early history. Sydney’s other museums and galleries include the Justice & Police Museum, Artspace, the Australian Centre for Photography, Boomalli Aboriginal Artists Co-operative, The Cartoon Gallery, and Coo-ee Aboriginal Art Gallery.
JUNE Sydney Film Festival Sydney Biennale
JULY Yulefest
AUGUST City to Surf Run
SEPTEMBER Royal Botanic Gardens Spring Festival Festival of the Winds Taylor Square Art Festival Rugby League Grand Final
OCTOBER
To u r i s m
19
As the principal arrival point for visitors to Australia, Sydney has become a major tourist center, with numerous hotels, motels, and restaurants. During the Australian bicentennial in 1988, an estimated one million visitors joined the city’s harbor-front festivities. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Sydney Festival & Carnivale Great Ferry Boat Race Survival Festival
JANUARY-FEBRUARY Chinese New Year
FEBRUARY-MARCH
Manly Jazz Festival
NOVEMBER Kings Cross Carnival
DECEMBER Christmas Party Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race New Years Eve Fireworks
21
Famous Citizens
Lachlan Macquarie (1762–1824), governor. Convict-turned-designer Francis Greenaway (1777–1837), Sydney’s first architect. Authors Thomas Keneally (b. 1935), Peter Carey (b. 1943), and Patrick White (1912–90).
Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras Hunter Vintage Walkabout
Playwright David Williamson (b. 1942).
MARCH
Artists Sidney Nolan (b. 1917), Arthur Boyd (b. 1920), and Brett Whiteley (1939–92).
Golden Slipper
MARCH-APRIL Royal Easter Show
APRIL Sydney Cup
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Film director Peter Weir (b. 1944). Novelist Colleen McCullough (b. 1937).
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Sydney 22
For Further Study
The Sydney Morning Herald Level 19 Darling Park
Websites City of Sydney. [Online] Available http:// www.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au (accessed December 27, 1999). Excite Travel. [Online] Available http:// www.excite.com.../australia/ new_south_wales/sydney/ (accessed December 27, 1999). Official Site of the Sydney 2000 Olympic Games. [Online] Available http://www.olym.../ sydney/virtual_sydney/sydney.html (accessed December 27, 1999).
Government Offices Governor, New South Wales Level 3, Chief Secretary’s Building 121 Macquarie Street Sydney, NSW 2000
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Australian Tourist Commission Level 4, 80 William St. Woolloomooloo, Sydney NSW 2011 NSW Travel Centre 19 Castlereagh Street Sydney, Australia Sydney Visitors Information Centre 106 George St. Sydney, Australia
201 Sussex S, 2001
Books Clark, Manning. A Short History of Australia. New York: NAL Penguin, 1987. Drew, Philip. Sydney Opera House: Jorn Utzon. London: Phaidon Press, 1995. Hughes, Robert. The Fatal Shore. New York: Knopf, 1986. Kirkpatrick, Peter. The Sea Coast of Bohemia: Literary Life in Sydney's Roaring Twenties. St. Lucia, Queensland: University of Queensland, 1992. Lindsay, Jack. The Roaring Twenties: Literary Life in Sydney, New South Wales in the Years 1921– 6. London: Bodley Head, 1960. Matthews, Anne. Sydney and New South Wales. Passport Books. Lincolnwood, IL: NTC Publishing Group, 1993. McHugh, Evan. Sydney. The National Geographic Traveler. Washington, DC: National Geographic Society, 1999. Morris, Jan. Sydney. New York: Random House, 1995. Polin, Zena L., and Stephen G. Gatward. The Other Side of Sydney: An Independent Traveler's Guide to Wonderful Australia's Largest City. Saint Paul, MN: Marlor Press, 1996. Spindler, Graham. Uncovering Sydney: Walks into Sydney's Unexpected and Endangered Places. Kenthurst, Australia: Kangaroo Press, 1991.
Publications The Australian Level 19 Darling Park 201 Sussex S, 2001 Daily Telegraph Mirror 2 Holt St. Surry Hills, 2010
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Videorecordings Sydney [videorecording]. Hosted by Al Roker. Thirteen/WNET production by Engel Brothers Media Inc. MPI Home Video, 1997. Copyright held by Educational Broadcasting Corporation. 1 videocassette (ca. 58 min.): sd., col.; 1/2 in.
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To k y o Tokyo, Japan, Asia Founded: c. 1150 Location: Eastern central Honshu, Tokyo Prefecture, Japan Motto: Changes with each governor; currently, “My Town Tokyo.” Flag: White symbol on purple field. Flower: Somei-Yoshino (a kind of cherry blossom) Time Zone: 9 PM = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT); Daylight Saving Time is not observed. Ethnic Composition: 98% Japanese; 2% Other (including American, Brazilian, British, Chinese, Korean, Peruvian, and Southeast Asian) Latitude and Longitude: 35°40´N, 139°45´E Climate: Temperate; winter is dry and mild, while summer is warm and humid. A rainy season occurs from mid-June to about mid-July, and September through November is the typhoon season. Average Temperatures: Winter 29–52ºF (–2 to 11ºC); Summer 70–83ºF (21–28ºC). Seasonal Average Snowfall: Snowfall is very rare—a single snowfall per year with virtually no accumulation. Average Annual Precipitation: 1334mm (1996 est.) Government: Tokyo Metropolis is comprised of 23 wards, 26 cities, seven towns, and eight villages. Incorporated cities all have mayors. Legislative authority in the metropolis belongs to the Tokyo Metropolitan Assembly, numbering 127 members elected for terms of four years. The prefectural governor is the principal elected official, presiding over several administrative commissions and their commissioners. Each ward elects a council and a ward head who deal with certain local matters. Weights and Measures: Metric system Monetary Units: The yen of 100 sen is issued in coins of 1,5,10,50,100, and 500 yen, and notes of 500, 1,000, 5,000, and 10,000 yen. Telephone Area Codes: 03–23 special ward area (ku-bu); 0426, 0425, 0422, 0428, 0423, 0424, 0427, 0428 city area (Shi-bu); 04992, 04996, 04998 island area (Tou-bu)
1
Introduction
Greater Tokyo is the world’s most populous metropolitan area and is the center of Japanese culture, finance, and government. A bustling cosmopolitan city, Tokyo is also a major transporta-
tion hub and a world economic and industrial center. The city boasts a large number of world-class institutions of higher education, the highest concentration of universities in Japan. Tokyo was known as Edo until 1868, when the Japanese imperial family was moved
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Tokyo
Tokyo Population Profile
of the four main islands comprising Japan. Airports
City Proper Population: 11,781,000 Area: 2,820 sq km (1,090 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 98% Japanese; Others<1% (Korean; Chinese; Southeast Asian; British; American; Brazilian; Peruvian) Nicknames:
Metropolitan Area Population: 28,025,000 Description: comprised of the four prefectures of the Kanto region: Tokyo, Kanagawa, Saitama, and Chiba World population rank1: 1 Percentage of national population2: 22.2% Average yearly growth rate: 0.8% ——— 1. The Tokyo metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of Japan’s total population living in the Tokyo metropolitan area.
there from Kyoto. Metropolitan Tokyo is generally defined as the four prefectures of Tokyo, Saitaima, Kanagawa, and Chiba, while the city of Tokyo proper usually refers to the 23 wards in Tokyo prefecture itself. The metropolitan area includes the major cities of Yokohama (the second largest city in Japan), Kawasaki, and Chiba, as well as rural mountain regions west of the city, the Izu Islands outside Tokyo Bay, and the Bonin Islands to the southeast in the Pacific Ocean. 2
Getting There
Tokyo is located on the Pacific on the eastern coast of Honshu, the largest
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Since Japan is an island nation, the most efficient means of access is by air. Flights originating from abroad almost always land at New Tokyo International Airport at Narita. From Narita, it is still a considerable distance to central Tokyo, and the traveler has the choice of two trains. The Keisei Skyliner reaches Nippori Station and Keisei Ueno stations in about an hour; from both of these points transfers can easily be made to other destinations in Tokyo. Japan Rail (JR) runs a Narita Express that arrives at Tokyo Station in under an hour and Shinjuku and Ikebukuro Stations in about an hour-and-a-half. All these stations are major transfer points to both trains and subways. There is also a limousine bus service to Shinjuku and Tokyo Stations and to Haneda Airport. Domestic flights, as well as China Airlines international flights, serve the much more conveniently located Haneda Airport. Haneda is a half hour’s drive from central Tokyo. Easiest access to the city is by the monorail that connects Haneda Airport with JR’s Yamanote line at Hamamatsucho Station. The Yamanote line is a circular line that connects with many major transfer points around Tokyo. Bus and Railroad Service While the subway system is continually being extended out into the grow-
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Tokyo
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Tokyo
Public transportation in Tokyo is clean, inexpensive, and the most reliable way to get around the city. (Mike Yamashita; Woodfin Camp)
ing suburbs of Tokyo, its reach is limited. The best way to access the city from other parts of Japan is by rail. The various Japan Rail companies, of which there are seven, have lines that reach Tokyo from every part of the country, save the small islands. By far the most efficient means of rail travel to Tokyo is the Shinkansen, the high-speed express trains run by Japan Rail. The Shinkansen also offers access to Tokyo from the north and west, though it is an express, and local connections may be necessary before reaching a Shinkansen line.
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3
Getting Around
An ancient city that has grown organically rather than according to an imposed plan, Tokyo exhibits a layout that differs radically from the grid-like patterns of cities like Washington, D.C., or Chicago. The streets follow no discernible pattern, though they might approximate a spiderweb, with concentric circles like Meiji-dori intersected by radiating streets like Shinjuku-dori and Yamate-dori. The geographical center is arguably Chiyoda-ku, where the Imperial Palace is located, though Chiyoda-
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Tokyo ku, with its abundant public park space, hardly qualifies as Tokyo’s “downtown.” No other area qualifies as downtown either; instead, the city has several concentrated “centers,” such as Shibuya, Shinjuku, and Ikebukuro. Other hubs include Setagaya, the Ginza, and Ueno. Bus and Commuter Rail Service The fact that each of these areas, with their distinctive characteristics, shares its name with a major train or subway station points to the primary means of travel in Tokyo. The government-operated Japan Railways operates several lines within Tokyo, the central line being the Yamanote line, which runs in a large circle around the city and intersects with most of the other train and subway lines en route. There are also several private train lines operating in Tokyo. Besides the trains, which run above ground, there are two subway companies, the Toei and the Teito. The subway lines are constantly being extended out to the suburbs, where they often emerge to run above ground like the trains. An extensive bus system fills in the areas not covered by the different rail systems. Rather inexplicably in a city as large and as lively as Tokyo, public transportation stops running sometime between midnight and 1:00 AM and resumes again at 5:00 AM. All public transportation in Tokyo, as in the rest of Japan, is relatively inexpensive, clean, and famous for being reliable and on schedule.
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4
People
In striking contrast to the ethnic and racial diversity that characterize large American cities, Tokyo, like the rest of Japan, is overwhelmingly monoracial. The largest non-Japanese minorities that live in Tokyo as Japanese citizens are Korean and Chinese nationals, who are never considered Japanese even though some of these families have lived in Japan for centuries. Tokyo has always attracted Japanese from areas beyond its borders, mostly people from the rural areas to the north and east who come in hopes of benefiting from Tokyo’s economic prosperity, which is often in stark contrast to the depressed economies of much of rural Japan. Many of these newcomers, and many native Tokyoites, are young people, who throng the streets at all hours of the day and night, infusing the city with an atmosphere of youthful vitality. 5
Neighborhoods
Lacking a defined center and encompassing a number of areas with a distinctive flavor, Tokyo has often been described as a city of cities. At Tokyo’s heart is old Edo, with the Imperial Palace grounds and public parks and gardens. Asakusa is another area that gives a glimpse of a Tokyo that is fast disappearing; there one finds cobbled streets and small shops selling traditional wares, all centered on the beautiful Sensoji Temple, Tokyo’s oldest. At the opposite pole of extreme modernity is Akihabara, which is renowned for its plethora of supposedly discounted elec-
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Tokyo
Tokyo, a cosmopolitan city, is the center of Japanese finance, government, and culture. (Mike Yamashita; Woodfin Camp)
tronic goods and which becomes flooded with people at the release of the latest software. Shinjuku is the site of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office, housed in a 48-story building with twin towers that is just one of many such structures in Shinjuku that makes the area the part of Tokyo that most resembles a modern American metropolis. There one also finds Shinjuku Station, Japan’s (and perhaps the world’s) busiest train station with well over a million passengers catching trains there each day. In contrast to its skyscrapers’ clean lines and the open spaces surrounding them, Shinjuku also
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includes Kabukicho, a sometimes seedy entertainment district. Shibuya is another area with a huge train station, department stores, eateries, and bars, though Shibuya is a bit cleaner than Shinjuku and considerably trendier, with hordes of young people crowding its streets. But Shibuya cannot compete with the opulence of the Ginza, Tokyo’s preeminent shopping district and the site of many upscale restaurants, galleries, and bars. 6
History
Although the site of Tokyo has been inhabited since prehistoric times,
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Tokyo the first recorded mention of a settlement is a twelfth-century reference to an obscure village called Edo, meaning “Gate of the Inlet,” situated where the Sumida River empties into Tokyo Bay. The temple at Asakusa, east of Ueno station and near the Sumida, dates from perhaps the late seventh century, though the present-day structures have been built since World War II. A provincial general erected a fortified castle at Edo around 1457, but the village remained insignificant until Tokugawa Ieyasu (1542–1616) took it over in 1590. Edo was made the capital of the shogunate in 1603 and remained so until 1868, though for the time being the court aristocracy remained in Kyoto, which retained its cultural preeminence throughout the early Tokugawa period. Edo grew rapidly through the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries and appears to have become the largest city on the planet by the end of the 1700s. Edo also overtook Kyoto to become the center of national culture, as theater (in particular, kabuki) reached a high level of sophistication during this time. The growth of the city was also accompanied by difficulties, such as the fire of 1657, in which two-thirds of the city was destroyed, and more than 100,000 people died. In 1868, the beginning of the Meiji Restoration, the name of Edo was changed to Tokyo, meaning “Eastern capital,” when the imperial court was moved there following the fall of the shogunate. Tokyo’s population fell dur-
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The Imperial Palace. (Mike Yamashita; Woodfin Camp)
ing the political unrest of the times, but it recovered and surpassed two million by the end of Meiji period. In 1872, a devastating fire ravaged the city and inflicted heavy damage on the Ginza and Maronouchi districts, which were subsequently rebuilt with Western-style brick structures. The rebuilding program reflected a larger trend in the nation, an effort to catch up with other nations in the world, in the process of which Japan and its capital were increasingly receptive to Western influences. By the end of the Emperor Meiji’s reign, Japan was allied with England and had been victorious in war against China and Russia. Tokyo has not only been prone to fires, the city’s most common disaster
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Tokyo
City Fact Comparison Tokyo (Japan)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
28,025,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
c. 1150
753 BC
723 BC
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$185
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$105
$56
$59
$62
$26
$14
$15
$16
$316
$173
$246
$207
31
13
20
11
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.) Total daily costs Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
Akhbar El Yom/ Yomiuri Shimbun Al Akhbar 10,220,512
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1874
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
historically, but has also suffered from earthquakes. The great 1923 earthquake, which destroyed most of the city, was the worst disaster in modern Japanese history. Reconstruction took seven years and included more than 200,000 new buildings, seven reinforced concrete bridges on the Sumida River, and a number of parks, in one of which the Hall of the Nameless Dead was constructed as a memorial to the estimated 30,000 casualties in Tokyo alone.
Japan’s surrender, U.S. troops occupied Tokyo until April 1952. The decade following 1954 was a time of rapid expansion and renovation, culminating in Tokyo’s hosting of the summer Olympics in 1964. Tokyo observed its 500th anniversary in 1957. Since then Tokyo’s growth has continued unabated, keeping pace with its increasing stature as one of the most important cities in the world.
Tokyo also incurred heavy damage from Allied bombings in World War II, when U.S. Air Force raids reduced large sections of the city to rubble. After
In 1932, the city limits of Tokyo were broadened to coincide with the prefectural boundaries, except in the west, where a county system persisted.
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7
Government
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Tokyo The rest of the prefecture is divided into wards. In 1943 Tokyo was made a metropolitan prefecture, constituting a special administrative unit, known as Tokyo Metropolis, comprising 23 wards, 26 cities, seven towns, and eight villages. Hence, the city of Tokyo is a technical misnomer, since city and prefecture were combined in the creation of the metropolitan prefecture. The county section now consists largely of incorporated cities, all of which have mayors. Legislative authority in the metropolis belongs to the Tokyo Metropolitan Assembly, numbering 127 members elected for terms of four years. The prefectural governor is the principal elected official and presides over several administrative commissions and their commissioners, including the fire department and public works departments. Each ward elects a council and a ward head who deal with certain local matters. 8
Public Safety
The huge metropolis of Tokyo enjoys a low incidence of crime that would be the envy of a city a fraction of Tokyo’s size. While crime does occur, the streets are generally quite safe at all hours of the day and night. Police are stationed at booths called koban at many street corners throughout the city, though they spend most of their time providing information to people looking for homes and businesses, a necessary service in Tokyo, which does not have a systematic layout or street address system.
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One of the primary concerns for public safety in Tokyo is the expectation of the next big earthquake, which is overdue considering large quakes occur every 70 years on average and the last was in 1923. Earthquake drills are held on the anniversary of the 1923 earthquake, when people are reminded to turn off open flames and take proper shelter. Open spaces in the form of parks are maintained throughout the city to accommodate expected populations rendered homeless by a quake. 9
Economy
The Tokyo region is Japan’s leading industrial center, with a highly diversified manufacturing base. Heavy industries are concentrated in Chiba, Kawasaki, and Yokohama, while Tokyo proper is strongly inclined toward light industry, including book printing and the production of electronic equipment. More significantly, perhaps, Tokyo is Japan’s management and finance center. Corporations with headquarters or branches or production sites in other parts of the country often have large offices in Tokyo, Marunouchi being the location of many of these. The close relationship between government and business in Japan makes a Tokyo location advantageous if not necessary. To the north of Marunouchi is Otemachi, where Japan’s leading financial institutions and insurance companies are located. Otemachi is also home to NTT, the communications giant. Of course, Tokyo is also the site of the
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Tokyo Tokyo Stock Exchange, located in Kabutocho. Tokyo was particularly affected by an economic boom in Japan in the 1980s when the country emerged as a global financial center rivaling Europe and the United States. The economic upswing led to speculation, and especially to real estate speculation. Land prices soared at the time, as did the value of the yen. The economy leveled out by the early 1990s, but Tokyo real estate remained the most expensive in Japan and held a similar rank on a global scale. In the latter half of the 1990s, Tokyo was again affected by the national economy—only this time it was not an economic boom. In 1999 Japan began a tentative recovery from its longest and most severe recession since the end of World War II. 10
Environment
Situated on the Kanto Plain, Tokyo is one of three large cities, the other two being Yokohama and Kawasaki, located along the northwestern shore of Tokyo Bay, an inlet of the Pacific Ocean on east-central Honshu, the largest of the islands of Japan. The central part of the city was once marsh and lagoons that were filled in when Ieyasu took over. This area is called shitamachi, or “low city,” site of the original Edo. The terrain becomes increasingly hilly to the west of the city’s center until it becomes the Musashino Plateau, where Yoyogi Park, the Meiji Shrine, Roppongi, and fashionable Harajuku are located. Other
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notable places on the west side are the nightclub district of Roppongi and the high-fashion districts of Aoyama and Harajuku. Tokyo is intersected by the Sumida River and has an extensive network of canals. There is a large man-made port at the mouth of the Sumida, the development of which has enabled Tokyo to compete with Yokohama, the area’s foremost port. Land reclamation projects have added to Tokyo’s available surface area by filling in the bay and providing room for waste disposal, additional port facilities, and new residential areas. Pollution of the environment is regarded as a matter of public offense. While the national government is often slow to address environmental issues, growing public pressure has led to legislation requiring industrial polluters to rectify any environmental damage for which they are responsible. In spite of widespread use of bicycles and public transportation, automobile exhaust is a problem in Tokyo. The imposition of emission standards has lately eliminated some of the smog that has plagued the city. 11
Shopping
Tokyo stores bring the goods of the world home to the domestic market. At the fashionable shops of the Ginza, Harajuku, Aoyama, and Shibuya, discerning Tokyoites can procure the clothing and merchandise of designers from London, Paris, New York, and of course Tokyo. Large, well-supplied
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Tokyo department stores can be found throughout the city, like Tokyu, Seibu, and Parco in Shibuya, and Keio, Mitsukoshi, and Isetan in Shinjuku. Ikebukuro is the location of the Tobu department store, which promotes itself as the world’s largest. Certain areas of Tokyo specialize in particular lines of merchandise. Akihabara, for example, is an electronics market and is the first place to sell the latest offerings from Japan’s unsurpassable electronics industry. Nearby Kanda, in the vicinity of Meiji University, has some 100 shops specializing in secondhand books. Kanda also has a concentrated area of sporting goods stores. Wherever one shops, and whatever one shops for, one thing is universal throughout Tokyo and all of Japan: high-quality, attentive service from Japanese merchants. In this regard, the invariably helpful and polite proprietor of the smallest shop is in no way outdone by even the most expensive boutique in the Ginza or the larger department stores of Shibuya and Shinjuku, with their “greeters” at the doors and their abundant sales personnel. 12
Education
Tokyoites have been subject to the same national education system as the rest of Japan since the Meiji period, when elementary schooling was made compulsory for children beginning at the age of eight. Further reformed after World War II, the system has produced one of the world’s most literate and educated populations. While private
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elementary and secondary schools exist, virtually all Japanese are educated in public schools. The central aim of primary and secondary education in Japan is to win entry into the country’s most exclusive universities. Entrance examinations are tough, and about two million prospective students sit for the exams each year in Tokyo between January and March. Tokyo boasts the world’s highest concentration of institutions of higher learning with over 100 universities and colleges, about a quarter of Japan’s total. One-third of Japan’s university students are enrolled in Tokyo schools. Tokyo University, founded in 1877, is the nation’s most prestigious, but it is joined by other top-ranking schools such as Keio-Gijuku University (established in 1867), Rikkyo University (1883), Waseda University (1882), and Tokyo Women's College (1900). The high concentration of such schools in Tokyo does present some difficulties, as Tokyo’s Metropolitan Board of Education has restricted the schools’ expansion to curb overcrowding in the city and encouraged them instead to locate additional facilities in outlying areas. 13
Health Care
Health standards in Tokyo are comparable to those found in other highly industrialized countries. Restaurants are most often impeccably clean, and the food is safe to eat and the water safe to drink everywhere.
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Tokyo Noise and smog are persistent problems in the city. Electronic billboards report sound levels and air pollution indices. Air quality has improved in recent years and continues to improve. Medical insurance in Japan is of two types. Private insurance is usually held through one’s employer or labor union. Public health insurance is available to everyone through the government’s National Health Insurance. Policy holders of the latter pay 30 percent of costs, and while most doctors and medical and dental establishments subscribe to the program, not all do. Certain expensive materials (like gold fillings) are not covered, though the plan does provide for expensive procedures. Health care is provided on a level comparable to that in any other highly industrialized nation. There are many hospitals in Tokyo, several of which are associated with the universities there, while others are private or run by religious groups. Some of the more prominent are Kosei General, University of Tokyo, Showa University, Tokyo Adventist, and St. Luke’s International Hospitals. 14
Media
As Japan’s nerve center, Tokyo is also a national media center. Television and radio stations and programs abound in Japanese and many other languages, with English predominating. Televisions are engineered for bilingual broadcast when available.
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The most famous television network is Japan Broadcasting Corporation, or Nippon Hoso Kyokai, known as NHK. The government-sponsored network produces and broadcasts a wide variety of high-quality programs from their studios near Harujuku. Tokyo is also home to several newspapers, notably Asahi Shinbun, the Mainichi Daily News, the Japan Times, and Yomiuri Shimbun, which boasts the world’s largest circulation. 15
Sports
Japan’s traditional national sport is sumo, where huge wrestlers compete against each other in a five-meter ring. Six tournaments are held annually, about every other month, and are broadcast on national television. The center of sumo in Tokyo is the Ryokugo Kokugikan. In terms of popularity, sumo is outstripped by baseball, which has been played in Japan since the 1870s and has been known as yakyu (“field ball”) since World War II. Six teams are based in the Tokyo area, most with sponsorship from large corporations. Two of these teams, the Tokyo Giants and the Nippon Ham Fighters, play in the Tokyo Dome, Japan’s first indoor stadium, with a capacity of 56,000, at Korakuen. Golf is also a major athletic preoccupation for Tokyoites, though golfers who can afford membership in a club have to travel two hours outside the city.
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Tokyo
Skateboarding is enjoyed by teens worldwide. (Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp)
16
Parks and Recreation
For such a crowded and heavily built-up city, Tokyo boasts a surprising number of parks, many of them quite beautiful. There are over 6,000 different parks and gardens covering more than 1,000 hectares (2,471 acres) in the city. The most impressive green spaces in Tokyo tend to be in the northern and eastern areas of the city. These are the places to which modern Tokyoites repair for such traditional seasonal activities as cherry-blossom viewing (hanami), when people gather to drink sake and picnic beneath flower-laden
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branches in the spring. Ueno Park, along with the Sumida embankment, has remained the most popular spot for hanami since the days of old Edo. Ueno also contains a renowned peony garden, a zoo, and Shinobazu Pond, where visitors can boat among abundant water fowl and lotus blossoms. Inokashira Park is another large green space with a beautiful pond. Many parks are associated with shrines and temples. The Meiji Shrine is situated in a deep wood with very large trees. The shrine also has a famous iris garden. Other gardens can be found at Nezu Shrine (azaleas), Nishiarai Daishi
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Tokyo Temple (peonies), and Kameido Shrine (wisteria). 17
Performing Arts
Modern Tokyo is host to the latest trends of global popular culture, and Tokyo Dome is the usual venue for performances by the likes of the Rolling Stones and Mariah Carey. Of course, Japan has evolved many types of performance that are uniquely Japanese, and Tokyo is one of the best places to experience these. Noh drama, slow-paced and minimalist and rooted in Zen Buddhism, can be seen at the new National Noh Theater in Sendagaya. Noh is also performed at night by torchlight at places like Meiji Shrine. But the National Theater, across the moat from the Imperial Palace, is the major venue for traditional performance art in Tokyo. There one can experience traditional court music called gagaku, which dates back many centuries to the Heian period. The National Theater also holds performances of bunraku, dramas in which the “actors” are three-quarter-life-size puppets manipulated by men covered with black cloth. And performances of kabuiki, the marvelously stylized operalike dramas as elaborate as any from the heart of Italy, are part of the program at the National Theater, though one can also see these at the Kabukiza in the Ginza and the Simbashi Embujo Theater.
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18
Libraries and Museums
A large number of Tokyo’s prestigious museums are located in the vicinity of Ueno Park. Among these are the Tokyo National Museum (which is Japan’s largest art museum), the National Museum of Science, the National Museum of Western Art (in a building designed by Le Corbusier and housing nineteenth- and twentiethcentury Western painters, with a focus on Monet), and the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum (with exhibitions based on its own extensive collections and exhibits of contemporary Japanese art). Near the Imperial Palace are the National Museum of Modern Art and the Nezu Art Museum. Tokyo’s metropolitan region also abounds in smaller galleries and museums, with perhaps the largest concentration around the Ginza. Many small museums are specialized: Zen calligraphy in the Idemitsu Art Gallery in Marunouchi, a large print collection in the Ukiyoe Ota Memorial Museum of Art in Harujuku, and tea ceremony utensils at the Nezu Institute of Fine Arts in Minami-Aoyama. While each of the major universities of Tokyo has a notable library collection, two other libraries are of note. These are the National Diet Library and the National Archives, both near the Imperial Palace.
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Tokyo 19
To u r i s m
Entry into Japan is subject to the complex policies of the Immigration Bureau of the Ministry of Justice. Visitors from the United States who will be staying in Japan for a period of less than 90 days need to have a valid passport and obtain a short-term visa. Longer stays require an extension or a commercial or student visa. Standard electrical voltage in Tokyo as in the rest of Japan is 100 volts AC, 50 cycles. Appliances designed to operate on 110–120 volts AC will work on Tokyo’s 100 volts but will not run as well and eventually will burn out, though this occurs only with long-term use and not during a short stay. Major hotels in Tokyo have 110- to 120-volt and 220-volt outlets as well and can usually supply adapters if appliance plugs will not fit the outlets provided. Travel in Tokyo is safe, easy, and efficient, and getting around is relatively inexpensive. The subway and train system is extensive, though transferring between the two different subway systems is more costly than traveling on only one. Transfers are sometimes a bit more complicated between JR lines and private railways. English-language signs abound, and English-language subway and train maps are available at major stations. Tickets are dispensed from vending machines, though there is always an attendant on hand (who usually speaks little if any English). There are many services to aid the foreign traveler,
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The Asakusa Shrine Festival is one of the many holidays and festivals that Japan celebrates. (Mike Yamashita; Woodfin Camp)
among them the Japan National Tourist Organization. 20
Holidays and Festivals
Japan has many national and local holidays and festivals (matsuri). The Sanjamatsuri at Asakusa Shrine in May, the Kandamatsuri at the Kanda Shrine in the same month, and the Sanno-sai at Hie Shrine in June are the three major Tokyo festivals.
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Tokyo JANUARY New Year’s Day (Shogatsu) Coming of Age Day (Seijin no Hi)
FEBRUARY Setsubun National Foundation Day (Kenkoku Kinen no Hi)
MARCH Girls’ Day (Hinamatsuri) Spring Equinox Day (Shumbun no Hi)
APRIL Cherry Blossom Viewing (Hanami) Birthday of the Buddha (Hanamatsuri) Flower and Greenery Day (Hana to Midori no Hi)—beginning of Golden Week, a national holiday of several days’ duration
MAY Constitution Day (Kempo Kinembi) Children’s Day (Kodomo no Hi) Sanja Festival (Sanjamatsuri) Kanda Festival (Kandamatsuri)
JUNE Sanno-sai Tanabata-matsuri
JULY Sumida River fireworks display
AUGUST Festival of the Dead (Obon)
SEPTEMBER Respect for the Aged Day (Keiro no Hi) Autumnal Equinox Day (Shubun no Hi)
OCTOBER Sports Day (Taiiku no Hi) Chrysanthemum Viewing (at various temples and shrines)
NOVEMBER Culture Day (Bunka no Hi) Three-Five-Seven Day (for children) (Shichi-GoSan) Labor Thanksgiving Day (Kinro Kansha no Hi)
DECEMBER Gishi-sai
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21
Famous Citizens
Yukio Mishima (1925–78), born Hiraoka Kimitake, one of Japan’s outstanding twentieth-century novelists. Ernest F. Fenollosa (1853–1908), American Orientalist and lecturer at Tokyo University, one of the founders of the Tokyo Fine Arts School in 1887. Junichiro Tanizaki (1886–1965), leading figure in twentieth-century Japanese letters. Soseki Natsume (1867–1916), born Kinnosuke Natsume, the preeminent novelist of the Meiji era. Edwin O. Reischauer (1910–90), American historian and Orientalist, born in Tokyo, served in military intelligence during World War II, and authored several important books aimed at increasing understanding of Japan in the United States. Shigeru Yoshida (1878–1967), prime minister of Japan during the country’s post-Occupation transition to democratic self-rule. Shinichiro Tomonaga (1906–79), physicist at what is now the Tokyo University of Education, won the Nobel prize for physics for research in quantum electrodynamics. Akio Morita (1921–99), world-renowned innovator in the electronics industry who founded the Sony Corporation and designed the hugely successful Walkman.
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Tokyo Akira Kurosawa (1910–98), one of the world’s greatest film directors. Sadaharu Oh (b. 1940), one of Japan’s most outstanding baseball players, played for the Tokyo Giants. Issey Miyake (b. 1938), leading figure in Japanese and international fashion design, studied at Tama Art University in Tokyo and set up his studio there in 1971. 22
For Further Study
Websites Japan National Tourist Organization (JNTO) Website. [Online] Available http:// www.jnto.go.jp (accessed November 29, 1999). Planet Tokyo. [Online] Available http:// www.pandemic.com/tokyo (accessed November 29, 1999). Tokyo Meltdown. [Online] Available http:// www.bento.com/tleisure.html (accessed November 29, 1999). Tokyo Metropolitan Government New York Representative Office. [Online] Available http:// www.tokyo-gov.org (accessed November 29, 1999). Tokyo Travel Guide. [Online] Available http:// www.asahi-net.or.jp/~by3s-fet/english.htm (accessed November 29, 1999).
Government Offices Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices Information 2–8–1 Nishi Shinjuku Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo Tel. (03) 5321–1111 Tokyo Regional Immigration Bureau Otemachi Office Complex, Building No. 1 1–3–1 Otemachi Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo Tel. (03) 3213–8111 Foreign Nationals’ Affairs Division 2–2–1 Kasumigaseki Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo Tel. (03) 3503–7045, ext. 6
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U.S. Embassy 1–10–5 Akasaka Minato-ku, Tokyo Tel. (03) 224–5000
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Japan National Tourist Organization (JNTO) 2–10–1, Yurakucho Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo Tel. (03) 3502–1461 Japan National Tourist Organization One Rockefeller Plaza, Suite 1250 New York, NY 10020 (212)757–5640 Japan National Tourist Organization 401 North Michigan Ave., Suite 770 Chicago, IL 60611 (312) 222–0874 Japan National Tourist Organization 515 South Figueroa St., Suite 1470 Los Angeles, CA 90071 (213) 623–1952 Tourist Information Center Tokyo International Forum, Building No. 1 3–5–1, Marunouchi Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo Tel.(03)3201–3331
Publications The Japan Times Ltd. 5–4, Shibaura 4–chome Minato-ku, Tokyo 108 Kodansha International Ltd. 17–14, Otowa 1–chome Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo 112 Charles E. Tuttle Co. Inc. 2–6 Suido 1–chome Bunkyo–ku, Tokyo 112
Books Bower, Faubion. Japanese Theater. Greenwood Press, 1976. Christopher, Robert C. The Japanese Mind: The Goliath Explained. New York: Linden Press/ Simon & Schuster, 1983. Conner, Judith and Mayumi Yoshida. Tokyo City Guide. Tokyo: Kodansha, 1985. The Japan Travel Bureau. A Look into Tokyo. (6th ed.) 1991.
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Tokyo Kennedy, Rick. Home, Sweet Tokyo: Life in a Weird and Wonderful City. Tokyo: Kodansha, 1988. Reischauer, Edwin O. Japan: The Story of a Nation. New York: Knopf, 1991. Reischauer, Edwin O. The Japanese Today. Tokyo: Tuttle, 1993. Sadler, Arthur. The Maker of Modern Japan: The Life of Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu. Tokyo: Tuttle: 1987. Schiffer, Robert L. The Exploding City. New York: St. Martin’s Press: 1989.
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Seidensticker, Edward G. Low City, High City: Tokyo from Edo to the Earthquake, 1867–1923. New York: Knopf, 1983. Seidensticker, Edward G. Tokyo Rising. New York: Knopf, 1990. Vardaman, James M. and Michiko Sasaki Vardaman. Japanese Etiquette Today: A Guide to Business and Social Customs. Tokyo: Tuttle, 1994. Waley, Paul. Tokyo, Now and Then: An Explorer's Guide. Weatherhill: 1984.
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To r o n t o Toronto, Ontario, Canada, North America Founded: 1720; Incorporated: 1834 Location: Northwestern shore of Lake Ontario, Ontario, Canada, North America Flag: Blue field with white “T” design and red maple leaf. Time Zone: 7 AM Eastern Standard Time (EST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: more than 80 ethnic groups from Africa, Asia, and Europe Elevation: 194 m (636 ft) Latitude and Longitude: 43º40'N, 79º22'W Climate: Continental climate moderated by Lake Ontario, with cold, damp winters, sunny springs, warm summers with some very hot days, and crisp autumns Annual Mean Temperature: January -4ºC (24ºF); July 21.7ºC (71ºF). Seasonal Average Snowfall: 141 cm (55.5 in) Average Annual Rainfall: 64 cm (25 in) Government: Mayor-council Weights and Measures: Metric Monetary Units: Canadian dollars (Can$) Telephone Area Codes: 416, 905 (647 to be added in March 2001) Postal Codes: Range of postal codes beginning with M5
1
Introduction
Located on the northwestern shore of Lake Ontario, Toronto is a city that has undergone a major transformation in the second half of the twentieth century, evolving from a staid, conservative, largely Anglo-Saxon enclave to a dynamic, multiethnic metropolis that is one of North America’s major cities. Throughout, it has retained an enviable degree of livability, boasting safe streets and a clean, efficient subway system amid restored Victorian houses and a renovated waterfront. Toronto’s leaders have worked successfully to protect the city’s heritage and its residents’ quality of life from the effects of unrestrained development, even as Toronto has con-
tinued to grow into a major financial and cultural center. 2
Getting There
Toronto, the capital of the province of Ontario, is located on the northwestern short of Lake Ontario. Although it is a Canadian city, it is located further south than many points in the United States, including much of New England and the northern Midwest, and is highly accessible by both Canadians and Americans. Highways Toronto is accessible by several major highways running parallel to the Lake Ontario shore: Highways 401 and
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Toronto
Toronto Population Profile City Proper Population: 653,734 Area: 95.8 sq km (37 sq mi) Ethnic composition: More than 80 ethnic groups from Africa, Asia, and Europe Nicknames: Toronto the Good
Metropolitan Area Population: 4,657,000 Description: Toronto, Etobicoke, York, North York, Scarborough, and East York Area: 634 sq km (245 sq mi) World population rank1: 49 Percentage of national population2: 15.2% Average yearly growth rate: 1.5% Ethnic composition: More than 80 ethnic groups from Africa, Asia, and Europe Nicknames: Metro Toronto ——— 1. The Toronto metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of Canada’s total population living in the Toronto metropolitan area.
402 enter Toronto from both the east and west, and the Queen Elizabeth Way enters the city from the west. Highway 400 enters the city from the north and connects with Highway 401. Bus and Railroad Service Toronto is on a number of major bus routes covered by both regional and national bus lines. Its bus terminal, located at 610 Bay Street, is the site of arrivals and departures to and from points in Ontario, elsewhere in Canada, and the United States. Canada’s nationwide VIA Rail System provides service
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between Ontario and points throughout Canada. Service to the United States is provided through connections with Amtrak in Niagara Falls (on the U.S. side). Airports Toronto’s Lester B. Pearson International Airport, located in the northwest part of Greater Toronto, serves major domestic and international airlines, including Air Canada, Canadian Airlines, American Airlines, United Airlines, USAir, British Airways, Air France, KLM, Alitalia, Lufthansa, Korean Airlines, and others. In 1997, the airport handled 26.1 million passengers, of which nearly half were from Canada and almost one-third from the United States. Toronto can be reached within a 90-minute flight by about 60 percent of the U.S. population. The Toronto City Centre Airport, located on an island in Toronto Harbour, handles scheduled, private, and corporate flights. Shipping Toronto is one of the major port cities of the Great Lakes region. About 1.8 million metric tons (two million tons) of cargo move through its port annually. 3
Getting Around
The major streets of Greater Toronto are arranged in a north-south and east-west grid pattern. At approximately 1,800 kilometers (1,200 miles), Yonge Street, the city’s main north-south thor-
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Toronto
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Toronto oughfare, is the world’s longest street. The main east-west street is Bloor Street. Toronto also has an extensive network of underground walkways connecting its major public buildings and shopping facilities. Bus and Commuter Rail Service The Toronto Transit Commission operates bus, subway, rapid transit, and streetcar lines covering a total of almost 4,000 kilometers (2,486 miles). The main lines of Toronto’s clean, efficient, U-shaped subway system are BloorDanforth and Yonge-University-Spadina.
about 100 different languages are spoken in the city. In the course of its history, Toronto has absorbed 350,000 Chinese immigrants, 400,000 Italians, 127,000 Greeks, and significant numbers of West Indians, Latin Americans, Indians, Sri Lankans, and Koreans. Nearly two-thirds of those who reside in Greater Toronto were born and raised elsewhere. The metropolitan area population includes the most extensive Portuguese population in North America, the largest Chinese population in eastern Canada, a half million Italians, and many other groups. 5
Sightseeing Double-decker bus tours of Toronto’s major sites are available between the spring and autumn months. Also offered are one-hour boat tours of the city’s port and its islands in Lake Ontario, as well as cruises on the 29meter (96-foot) schooner The Challenge. Walking and bicycling tours of various Toronto neighborhoods are also available, as are helicopter tours featuring an aerial view of the city. 4
People
Having recently expanded to include the municipalities of North York, Scarborough, Etobicoke, York, and East York, Metropolitan Toronto now has a population of some 4.2 million people, while the central city has over half a million. Known for its ethnic diversity, Toronto’s population includes more than 80 different ethnic groups;
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Neighborhoods
Toronto’s financial district, home to the city’s major banks and insurance companies, is bordered by Front Street, Queen Street, Yonge Street, and York Street. The King Street West theater district between Front and Queen streets contains a heavy concentration of cultural facilities, including the Royal Alexander Theatre, Roy Thomson Hall, the Canadian Broadcasting Company building, the city’s convention center, and the Princess of Wales Theatre. Chinatown is bounded by Dundas Street, University Avenue, Spadina Avenue, and College Street. Toronto’s Little Italy, with its colorful coffee bars and trattorias, is located along College Street between Euclid and Shaw. The area from College Park to Bloor Street, between Spadina Avenue and Yonge Street is home to many of the University of Toronto Buildings and the Ontario Legislature.
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Toronto
City Fact Comparison Indicator
Toronto (Canada)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
4,657,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1720
753 BC
723 BC
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$129
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$60
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$15
$14
$15
$16
$204
$173
$246
$207
4
13
20
11
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
Total daily costs Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
Akhbar El Yom/ The Toronto Star Al Akhbar 460,654
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1892
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
To the east of Parliament Street and between Bloor and Gerrard streets is an area traditionally known as Cabbagetown because of the cabbages planted on the lawns of the nineteenth-century Irish immigrants who were its original settlers. Having undergone gentrification, today it is an upscale urban enclave. The Yorkville area northwest of the intersection of Bloor and Yonge streets became a haven for the counterculture beginning in the 1960s; today it is a high-rent district boasting an array of fashionable galleries, boutiques, restaurants, and cafes.
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Residential neighborhoods include the Annex, between Bloor and Bernard streets; the exclusive Rosedale area; Forest Hill; the Beaches, formerly a summer resort; East End/Danforth, a heavily Greek enclave; and the popular redeveloped North York neighborhood. 6
History
The first known European to set foot in the area of present-day Toronto was a Frenchman, Étienne Brulé (c. 1592–1633), in 1615. The plain between the Don and Humber rivers had been traversed for hundreds of years by hunters and warriors of native groups including the Hurons, Iroquois,
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Toronto
Toronto skyline. (Bernard Boutrit; Woodfin Camp)
Ottawas, and Mississaugas. The French established a trading post at the site in 1720 and a settlement, Fort Rouille, in 1751. Twelve years later, French rule of Canada was ended by the Treaty of Paris, and the entire territory came under British control. In 1793 the British built the settlement that was to become Toronto. Called York, it became the capital of the British province of Upper Canada. Present-day Toronto’s main street, Yonge Street, was laid out in 1796. During the War of 1812, the British captured the town and burned its parliament buildings. (The British retali-
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ated by attacking the fledging U.S. capital, Washington, D.C., and burning the president’s residence, which received its present name—the White House—after being whitewashed to hide its charred exterior.) But the town rebuilt and continued to grow, aided by growing immigration and the extension of the Erie Canal to Lake Ontario. In 1834 it was officially incorporated as the city of Toronto. The following decades saw a dramatic improvement in the city’s infrastructure—including water works, gas lines, and, by 1884, electricity, as well as the coming of the railroad. Toronto became a major trade center for lumber and grain, and its first
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Toronto financial institutions were established. With Canadian independence from Britain in 1867, the city became the capital of the new province of Ontario. In the latter part of the nineteenth century, Toronto’s population grew rapidly, reaching 181,000 by 1891. The city became a major business center, with large fortunes amassed by a number of self-made entrepreneurs, including Timothy Eaton (1834–1907) and Robert Simpson, who laid the groundwork for retail empires that were to flourish in the twentieth century as well. With new wealth came the establishment of cultural institutions such as the Toronto Philharmonic Society and others. As the new century opened, the city flourished economically, attracting a new wave of immigrants from Russia, Italy, and Eastern Europe and also experiencing some of the social problems that came with increased industrialization. Thousands of Canadians fought in both world wars, and the domestic economy expanded to meet wartime production needs. After World War II (1939–45), suburban expansion became a major social and economic phenomenon, much as it did in the cities in the United States. The Metro Council, established in 1953, allowed representatives of both the city and its suburbs to unite in working for the development of the metropolitan area; expanded highways and the creation of a subway system were important factors in this development. The post-war years also changed Toronto’s ethnic and racial makeup dramatically, and ethnic
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enclaves multiplied in a city whose population had been primarily AngloSaxon. Restrictions were eased on immigration from China, Eastern Europe, and Italy and additional immigrants arrived from Latin America, the Caribbean, India, Pakistan, and Southeast Asia. By 1961, 42 percent of Toronto’s population was foreign-born. Urban renewal was sparked in the 1960s as area residents began moving from the suburbs back to the city, and the Yorkville area temporarily became a counterculture mecca. By the 1970s Toronto surpassed Montreal as Canada’s top financial center. It boasted the largest number of corporate headquarters in the country, as well as its major stock exchange and the capital of its publishing industry. A growing number of skyscrapers changed city’s skyline, and waterfront commercial development was begun with the development of Harbourfront. Some of the city’s top attractions, including the zoo, the Ontario Science Centre, and Ontario Place, were also built during this period. Since then Toronto has continued to grow into a major business and cultural center, becoming home to one of North America’s leading theater districts as well as the world’s first sports stadium with a fully retractable roof, the Skydome, completed in 1989. The 1990s have seen the expansion of the Metro Toronto Convention Center, the construction of a new National Trade Center and sports arena, and a major renovation of the Royal Ontario Museum. In 1998 a major government reorganization took place, uniting six
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Toronto municipalities into an expanded City of Toronto. 7
Government
In January 1998 the City of Toronto was enlarged to include four neighboring cities (Etobicoke, North York, York, and Scarborough) and the borough of East York. The new city has a mayor-council form of government, with both the mayor and council members elected to three-year terms, representing 28 wards. 8
Public Safety
Toronto is known as one of the safest major cities in North America. Its subways are clean and safe and even have special camera-monitored safety areas. Criminal law in Toronto is determined by Canada’s federal government and is the same throughout the country, as opposed to civil law, which varies from one province to another. The Metro area is protected by a police force of approximately 5,000, supplemented by a unit of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police, which enforces federal laws, such as those involving drug smuggling and tax evasion. The Ontario Provincial Police patrol the highways that ring the city. Uniformed police officers wear guns although gun use by the police is extremely rare. 9
Economy
Toronto is the economic heart of Canada. It is home to over 80,000 businesses, including more than one-third of the country’s top 500 industrial
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firms. With over 8,000 industrial plants, Toronto is Canada’s manufacturing capital. It is also Canada’s major center for banking and finance. Five of the country’s ten chartered banks are headquartered in the city, and more than 40 foreign banks have offices there. In addition, many of the nation’s top insurance and investment firms also have offices in Toronto. Like New York—its economic counterpart in the United States—Toronto is also the major media and communications center of its country, as well as its major metropolitan retail market. Major companies with offices in Toronto include American Express Canada, the Bank of Montreal, Bell Canada, Eaton’s, Famous Players, Hewlett-Packard Canada, IBM Canada, Labatt Breweries, Molson Breweries, Sears Canada, Sprint Canada, and Toronto Dominion Bank. 10
Environment
The forests of southern Ontario, within easy access of Toronto, are rich in flora and home to abundant wildlife, including many bird species and large mammals, such as moose, deer, and bear. Gulls, ducks, and Canada geese inhabit the shores of Lake Ontario, and the abundant marshes and pools of southern Ontario are home to many wetland species, including herons, woodcock, teal, wood duck, kingfishers, and ospreys, plus a variety of amphibians and such mammals as the muskrat. The Ontario Environmental Network serves as a referral service for some
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Toronto
Old City Hall at Nathan Hawkins Plaza. (Bernard Boutrit; Woodfin Camp)
500 environmental groups of all kinds in the province of Ontario. 11
Shopping
Downtown Toronto is the thirdlargest retail center in North America, surpassed only by New York and Chicago—it has 929,000 square meters (ten million square feet) of retail space and some 4,500 stores. Its major department stores are Eaton’s and the Hudson’s Bay Company (formerly Simpson’s). The major downtown shopping venues are the trendy Bloor/ Yorkville area, Queen Street West for bookstores, antiques, and boutiques,
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and several malls. The Eaton Centre on Yonge Street in downtown Toronto is a mammoth, four-level mall complex with a glass-domed galleria and more than 360 shops and restaurants. Other downtown malls include the smaller College Park Shops, the upscale Hazelton Lanes, Royal Bank Plaza, and Queen’s Quay Terminal, located in a converted waterfront warehouse. Large shopping centers in the metropolitan area include the Yorkdale Shopping Center, Scarborough Town Centre, and Dufferin Mall. Toronto is known particularly for its retail selection of Canadian arts and
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Toronto crafts. The city has two major outdoor produce markets: Kensington Market and the St. Lawrence Market. 12
Education
Toronto’s public school system operates more than 500 elementary and secondary schools, which have an enrollment of approximately 280,000 students. About one-third as many students attend parochial and private schools. With an enrollment of over 50,000, the University of Toronto is the largest university in Canada. Ranked Canada’s top research university by Maclean’s magazine, the University of Toronto is also known for the quality of the liberal arts education it provides to its graduates. With nine colleges, the university offers 300 undergraduate, 148 master’s, and 95 doctoral programs. Other colleges and universities include the National Ballet School, Ryerson Polytechnical Institute, Ontario College of Art, and the Royal Conservatory of Music. 13
Health Care
With more than 50 hospitals, and some 130,000 people employed in the health care industry, Toronto is Canada’s major health care center. With a total of approximately 1,000 beds, the University Health Network (formerly The Toronto Hospital) is one of Canada’s largest acute-care teaching organizations and the primary teaching hospital for the University of
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Toronto. The network consists of three separate hospitals (Toronto General Hospital, Toronto Western Hospital, and Princess Margaret Hospital) and Toronto Medical Laboratories. In fiscal year 1998–99, University Health Network logged 38,853 admissions (of adult patients), 559,269 ambulatory visits, 66,730 emergency visits, and 16,587 surgeries. Mount Sinai Hospital, also affiliated with the University of Toronto Medical School, is another Toronto hospital that is highly regarded throughout Canada. The 388-bed hospital is recognized in particular for the quality of its nursing care. In 1997–98 Mount Sinai admitted 18,174 patients and recorded 3,925 births, 28,224 emergency visits, and 518,897 ambulatory care visits. During the same period, the hospital employed a full-time staff of 1,299. Another prestigious Toronto medical facility is the Hospital for Sick Children, which has an international reputation for clinical care and research. The hospital has been the site of many pioneering discoveries and procedures in recent decades, including the first bone marrow transplant program and major research in the area of hereditary diseases. Other hospitals in Greater Toronto include Centenary Hospital, Central Hospital, The Doctors’ Hospital, Queen Elizabeth Hospital, Queensway General Hospital, St. Michael’s Hospital, Toronto East General and Orthopaedic Hospital, Toronto General Hospital, Toronto Rehabilitation Centre, and West Park Hospital.
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Toronto
Eaton Centre is one of the largest mall complexes in Toronto offering more than 360 shops and restaurants. (Mike Yamashita; Woodfin Camp)
Toronto is also the home of Toronto Rehabilitation Institute, Baycrest Centre for Geriatric Care, and the Eye Bank. 14
Media
In addition to the Globe and Mail, Canada’s national newspaper, two other major dailies are published in Toronto—the Toronto Star (weekday circulation 460,654; Sundays 469,811) and the Toronto Sun (weekdays 240,164; Sundays 403,316). Also published in the city are The Financial Post, a business newspaper, and hundreds of other business publications of all kinds. Toronto
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also houses the corporate headquarters of Thomson Publishing, one of the world’s largest book publishers. Major magazine publishers Maclean Hunter and Southam Business Communications are also located in the city. Toronto has seven television stations and 24 AM and FM radio stations. 15
Sports
Toronto residents are avid sports fans, and professional sporting events are usually sold out months in advance. Hockey is played by the Maple Leafs at the new Air Canada Centre, which is
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Toronto Thoroughbred racing takes place at Woodbine Racetrack. Toronto also hosts several annual spectator sports events: the Molson Indy auto race, a canoeing and rowing regatta on Long Pond, both in July, and the Player’s International Canadian Open tennis championship tournament every summer. 16
The sculpture garden at St. James’ Cathedral. (Bernard Boutrit; Woodfin Camp)
also home to the Raptors of the National Basketball Association. The Hockey Hall of Fame and Museum is located in downtown Toronto. The Toronto Blue Jays baseball team, which won the 1992 and 1993 World Series, plays home games in the Skydome, an outdoor stadium with a retractable roof. The Argonauts of the Canadian Football League also play in the Skydome; in 1996 the Argonauts won the sport’s prestigious Grey Cup national championship.
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Parks and Recreation
Toronto’s extensive park system offers tennis courts, swimming pools, playing fields, and ice-skating rinks. The 178-hectare (440-acre) High Park in the city’s West End includes Grenadier Pond (actually a large lake), a swimming pool, a modest-sized zoo, playing fields, tennis courts, bowling greens, and extensive open areas for picnicking, baseball, and other activities. Toronto is also home to two public gardens: the Allan Gardens between Jarvis, Sherbourne, Dundas, and Gerrard streets and the Edwards Garden (Lawrence Avenue at Leslie Street), a formal garden with a creek running through it. Almost directly across Lake Ontario is Niagara Falls, one of North America’s most spectacular natural wonders (and major tourist sites), and some 322 kilometers (200 miles) north of the city lie the 7,700 square kilometers (3,000 square miles) of wilderness lands that make up Algonquin Provincial Park. Toronto has an exceptional zoo— the Metropolitan Zoo (or Metro Toronto Zoo), located in Scarborough. Uncaged animals roam over 287 hect-
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Toronto ares (710 acres) that have been transformed into settings resembling their natural habitats, including African savannah, Malaysian rainforests, and Western prairies. A monorail and Zoomobile, as well as some ten kilometers (six miles) of walkways, help visitors traverse the zoo’s vast expanse, which also includes a large botanical collection. Toronto provides many opportunities for outdoor recreation, including water sports on Lake Ontario. There are bicycle trails in park areas, and bicyclers can also be seen—together with walkers, runners, and in-line skaters—on the city streets and at the lakefront during the warm-weather seasons. Tobogganing and cross-country skiing are popular during the winter months; Nathan Phillips Square and Harbourfront are popular ice-skating venues. The Kortright Centre for Conservation offers naturalist-guided hiking and other activities. 17
Performing Arts
Toronto is widely known for the abundance and variety of its performing arts scene. In particular, it is one of the English-speaking world’s major theater venues, surpassed only by New York and London. Its major performing arts centers include the Elgin and Winter Garden Theatres, venues for all types of theatrical and music performances and extensively renovated in the 1980s. Broadway musicals are seen at the restored Pantages Theatre, the
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Royal Alexandra Theatre, and the Princess of Wales Theatre. The city’s theater companies include the Canadian Stage Company, which performs at the St. Lawrence Centre and gives free outdoor Shakespeare performances in the summer; the Factory Theatre and Tarragon Theatre, known for their productions of works by Canadian playwrights; Young People’s Theatre, which is dedicated to presenting theatrical works for children; Theatre Passe Muraille, a leading alternative theater; Buddies in Bad Times, a gay theater whose plays deal with issues of gender and identity; and the Native Earth Performing Arts Theatre, whose productions address issues of importance to Native Canadians. Toronto is also famous as a center for live comedy; many major comedic talents—both Canadian and American—who went on to success in the United States honed their skills at Second City Toronto and in comedy clubs such as Yuk Yuk’s. The Toronto Symphony performs in Roy Thomson Hall, with the Mendelssohn Choir participating in programs that include choral works. In the summer, the orchestra performs outdoors at Ontario Place at the lakeshore. The Canadian Opera performs at the Hummingbird Centre for the Performing Arts. Toronto’s other musical groups include the Orford String Quartet, Tafelmusik, and the Elmer Isler Singers. Many types of popular music are heard in clubs and concerts, many held at the Molson Amphitheatre.
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Toronto Toronto is the home of Canada’s premier dance troupe, the National Ballet of Canada, founded nearly 50 years ago. The company performs both ballet classics and modern works at the O’Keefe Theatre in Toronto and also tours throughout Canada and the United States. Toronto’s leading contemporary dance ensemble is the Toronto Dance Theatre, which performs at the Premiere Dance Theatre. 18
Libraries and Museums
Founded in 1883, the Toronto Public Library System serves a population of 2,300,000. The library’s book holdings total 9,132,159 volumes. The library system has an annual circulation of more than 28,376,411 items. Special collections include Canadiana, the Arthur Conan Doyle Room, Native People Collection, Puppetry, and Urban Affairs. The University of Toronto Library System holds more than eightand-a-half million volumes and subscribes to more than 40,000 electronic journals. Subject of its special collections include English Literature, Australiana, History of Science and Medicine, and Canadian and Provincial Documents. With art, archaeology, and science collections containing more than six million items, the Royal Ontario Museum, known locally as ROM, is Canada’s largest museum. It is particularly renowned for its extensive Chinese collection, which includes over 1,000 artifacts. Other notable features
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of the museum are the textile collection, the display of early Canadian decorative arts, the Roman Gallery, and exhibits featuring the cultures of Native Canadians. Children enjoy the museum’s Bat Cave and Dinosaur Gallery. The Art Gallery of Toronto exhibits all types of artworks from the Middle Ages through the twentieth century. The George R. Gardiner Museum of Ceramic Art is the only museum in North America devoted exclusively to ceramics and includes both European and pre-Columbian collections. The McMichael Collection, located north of the city in Kleinburg, displays works by a group of famous Canadian landscape painters in a picturesque woodland setting. The Ontario Science Centre contains a large and varied selection of exhibits, many of them interactive. In addition to its art and science museums, Toronto is also home to the Hockey Hall of Fame and Museum and collections featuring history and design, as well as such unusual categories as telephones, sugar, and shoes. 19
To u r i s m
According to Tourism Toronto, visitors made an estimated 20.2 million trips to Toronto in 1997—44 percent from elsewhere in Ontario, 14 percent from Canada’s other provinces, 27 percent from the United States, and the rest from overseas. Of these visitors, 37 percent came for pleasure trips, 32 percent were visiting friends or family, 23 percent came on business trips, including conventions, and the remainder
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Toronto were unclassified. Total direct visitor expenditures in 1997 totaled Can$4.96 billion. The city’s 32,250 hotel rooms had a 72 percent occupancy rate. Toronto’s major convention and exhibit facilities include the National Trade Centre (101 square meters/1,086 square feet of marketing and exhibit space), Toronto Congress Centre (46 square meters/500 square feet), International Centre (43 square meters/468 square feet), and Metro Toronto Convention Centre (43 square meters/460 square feet). In 1997, 911 meetings, conventions, and trade shows were held in the city, with an economic impact of Can$1.086 billion. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY-MARCH
Toronto greets over 20 million visitors a year. (Timothy Eagan; Woodfin Camp)
JUNE-JULY Benson & Hedges Symphony of Fire Fireworks Competition
Stages Celebration
JUNE-SEPTEMBER
FEBRUARY
International Marketplace
Winter Carnival
JUNE-OCTOBER
MARCH
Wednesday’s Soundsational Concert Series
International Home & Garden Show Milk International Children’s Festival of the Arts Toronto St. Patrick’s Parade
JULY
Big City Hoedown 8 Toronto Jewish Film Festival
Beaches International Jazz Festival Fringe of Toronto Festival CHIN (Canadian Heritage Information Network) Picnic International & Shopping Bazaar Outdoor Art Exhibition Scream in High Park—a Carnival of the Spoken Word Toronto Harbour Parade of Lights Toronto Molson Indy
JUNE
JULY-AUGUST
APRIL Images Festival of Independent Film and Video
APRIL-MAY Music Hall at Snug Harbor
MAY
Gay Pride Week International Dragon Boat Race Festival Medieval Renaissance Festival Metro International Caravan North by Northeast Music Festival Toronto Lion Dance Festival
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Caribana Festival
AUGUST Great Canadian Volkswagen Bug Show Hot & Spicy Food Festival Taste of the Danforth
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Toronto AUGUST-SEPTEMBER Canadian National Exhibition
SEPTEMBER Bell Canadian Open Canadian International Air Show Country Harvest Festival Hunting & Outdoors Show Italian Celebration Ontario Place Offshore Challenge Toronto Downtown Jazz Festival Toronto Fall Gift Show Toronto International Film Festival Vegetarian Food Fair
OCTOBER Canadian International Marathon Creative Sewing & Needlework Festival Fall Classic Collector Car Auction & Swap Meet HarvestFest International Creators Art & Craft Show International Festival of Authors International Home Show Toronto Fall Home Show
NOVEMBER Mennonite Christmas Festival Royal Agricultural Winter Fair Santa Claus Parade
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER Christmas in the Village Country Christmas at Gibson House Museum One of a Kind Christmas Canadian Craft Show & Sale
NOVEMBER-JANUARY Cavalcade of Lights Trees Around the World
DECEMBER First Night Toronto International Christmas Fair & Marketplace Toronto Christmas Story
DECEMBER-JANUARY Victorian Christmas Flower Show
21
Famous Citizens
Margaret Atwood (b. 1939), novelist and poet.
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Robertson Davies (b. 1913), one of Canada’s most popular and acclaimed novelists. Glenn Gould (1932–82), pianist. Paul Kane (1810–71), nineteenth-century artist and explorer. William Lyon Mackenzie (1795–1861), Toronto’s first mayor. Marshall McLuhan (1911–80), culture critic and media theorist. Charles G. D. Roberts (1860–1943), poet and author of animal stories. Goldwin Smith (1823–1910), author. 22
For Further Study
Websites Toronto City Guide. [Online] Available http:// www.math.toronto.edu/toronto/. (accessed October 14, 1999). Toronto City Net. [Online] Available http:// www.city.net/countries/canada/ontario/toronto. (accessed October 14, 1999). Toronto Info Guide. [Online] Available http:// www.theinfoguide.com/guideme.htm. (accessed October 14, 1999).
Government Offices Mayor’s Office 55 John St. Metro Hall, 7th Fl. Toronto, ON M5V3C6 (416) 395-6464 Toronto City Hall 100 Queen St. W Toronto, ON M5H2N1 (416) 392-7341
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Metropolitan Toronto Convention & Visitors Association 207 Queen’s Quay W Toronto, ON M5J1A7 (416) 203-6753
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Toronto Metro Toronto Convention Centre 255 Front St. W Toronto, ON M5V2W6 (416) 585-8000
Publications Financial Post 333 King St. E Toronto, ON M5A4N2 The Globe and Mail 444 Front St. W Toronto, ON M5V2S9 Toronto Star 1 Yonge St. Toronto, ON M5E1E6 Toronto Sun 333 King St. E Toronto, ON M5A3X5
Books Arthur, Eric Ross. Toronto, No Mean City. 3rd ed. Rev. by Stephen A. Otto. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 1986. Dendy, William. Lost Toronto: Images of the City's Past. Toronto: McClelland & Stewart, 1993.
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Filey, Mike. Discover & Explore Toronto's Waterfront: A Walker's, Jogger's, Cyclist's, Boater's Guide to Toronto's Lakeside Sites and History. Toronto: Dundurn Press, 1998. Fulford, Robert. Accidental City: The Transformation of Toronto. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1996. Fulford, Robert, and Megan Oldfield. Toronto Tapestry. Sponsored by the Board of Trade of Metropolitan Toronto. Memphis, TN: Towery Pub., 1997. Holloway, Anne. Toronto with Kids: The Complete Family Travel Guide to Attractions, Sites, and Events in Toronto. Macfarlane Walter & Ross, 1995. Kilbourn, William. Toronto Remembered: A Celebration of the City. Toronto: Stoddart, 1984. Kluckner, Michael. Toronto the Way It Was. Toronto: Whitecap Books, 1988. Martyn, Lucy Booth. Toronto, 100 Years of Grandeur: The Inside Stories of Toronto's Great Homes and the People Who Lived There. Toronto: Pagurian Press, 1978. Mitchell, Scott. Secret Toronto: The Unique Guidebook to Toronto’s Hidden Sites, Sounds, & Tastes. Toronto: ECW Press, 1998.
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Va n c o u v e r Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada, North America Founded: 1867; Incorporated: April 6, 1886 Location: Southwestern British Columbia on the Pacific Coast of Canada Flag: Green triangle (left) with yellow emblem; white field with blue waves. Motto: “By Sea, Land and Air We Prosper.” Flower: Rose in all its forms (floribunda, hybrid tea, grandiflora and climbers) and of no specific color Time Zone: 4 am Pacific Standard Time (PST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time Ethnic Composition: 21% Chinese; 11% English; 4% East Indian; 72% of single origins; 28% of multiple origins (1991 est.) Latitude and Longitude: 49º16’N, 123º7’W Coastline: Bordered by the Pacific Ocean, Fraser River, and the Burrard Inlet Climate: Winters are generally wet and mild while summers are warm and dry. The city’s climate is influenced by the Pacific Ocean, which moderates the temperature and is responsible for precipitation. Annual Mean Temperature: 11.0ºC (51.8ºF) Seasonal Average Snowfall: 8.0 cm (3.1in) Average Annual Precipitation (rainfall and melted snow): 94 cm (37 in) Government: Mayor and ten-member council Weights and Measures: Metric Monetary Units: Canadian dollar (Can$) Telephone Area Codes: 604
1
Introduction
Vancouver is located on the Pacific Coast in southwestern British Columbia. Covering 114 square kilometers (44 square miles), it is the second-smallest area of eight major Canadian cities. The metropolitan area of 2,787 square kilometers (1,076 square miles) is the thirdlargest metropolitan area in Canada. In March 1995, the city of Vancouver won a silver medal as the second-best city in the world. Vancouver was incorporated in 1886 and named after Captain George
Vancouver (1757–98), who first sailed round Vancouver, exploring and charting Burrard Inlet and adjacent waters. Vancouver is known as one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Bordered by the Pacific Ocean, the Fraser River, the Burrard Inlet, and the Coast Mountains to the east, the city is surrounded by shimmering waters and towering trees. With 44 percent of its population comprised of visible minorities, Vancouver is truly a multicultural city. It is home to Canada’s largest Chinatown,
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Vancouver
Vancouver Population Profile
1997, the city cemented its place in Pacific Rim trade. 2
City Proper Population: 514,000 Area: 114 sq km (44 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 21% Chinese; 11% English; 4% East Indian; 72% of single origins; 28% of multiple origins Nicknames: Lotus Land; Hollywood North
Metropolitan Area Population: 1,987,000 Description: Vancouver and surrounding communities Area: 1,076 sq mi World population rank1: 166 Percentage of national population2: 6.5% Average yearly growth rate: 1.9% ——— 1. The Vancouver metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of Canada’s total population living in the Vancouver metropolitan area.
its largest gay community, and boasts numerous ethnic neighborhoods, such as Little India and Little Italy. However, all Vancouver residents are called Vancouverites. In 1986, the city played host to the World Expo. Since then, tourism has grown considerably and now draws more than five million visitors to the region each year. The Port of Vancouver, a worldclass port situated on Burrard Inlet, is one of the busiest in North America. The port situates Vancouver as Canada’s gateway to Asia. By hosting the AsiaPacific Economic Conference (APEC) in
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Getting There
Vancouver is bordered by the Pacific Ocean to the west, the Fraser River to the south, and the Burrard Inlet to the north. It borders the city of Burnaby to the east, aptly separated by Boundary Road. It is accessible by land, sky, and water. Highways Two major highways lead to Vancouver: the Trans-Canada Highway, Highway 1, funnels drivers into the city from the east; Highway 99, which becomes I-5 at the United States-Canada border, brings in traffic from the south. Vancouver is a 12-hour drive from Calgary, Alberta’s capital city, and a five-day drive from Montreal. Vancouver is only three hours north of Seattle, in Washington State. Bus and Railroad Service Pacific Central Station, the terminus for transcontinental passenger rail and bus service, is located at Main Street and Terminal Avenue in downtown Vancouver. VIA Rail, BC Rail, the Rocky Mountaineer, and Amtrak offer regularly scheduled passenger rail service to Vancouver. VIA Rail has transcontinental services from Toronto three times a week. Greyhound Lines serves Vancouver from numerous cities in the United States and Canada. Also serving the market are International Stage Lines,
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Vancouver Pacific Coach Lines, and Gray Line of Vancouver. Airports Vancouver International Airport serves both international and domestic airlines. Currently, 19 major carriers, 11 regional and local airlines, and several charter companies fly into Vancouver International Airport. Americans have a choice of 70 non-stop flights daily from 21 cities in the United States. Direct flights from the United Kingdom, Western Europe, Australia, New Zealand, and the Asia Pacific region (Japan, Hong Kong, Taiwan) are offered. Shipping Vancouver is accessible by water from Seattle, Victoria, the Gulf Islands, and parts of coastal British Columbia. Cruise ship facilities at Canada Place serve as a departure point for journeys to Alaska by major cruise lines. There are more than 250 cruises each year from May to early October. 3
Getting Around
Vancouver is a city that is easy to navigate. It is laid out on a grid system of avenues running east-west and streets running north-south. Main Street is the dividing line between the east and west parts of the city. Avenues, starting at False Creek, are numbered while both streets and avenues in downtown Vancouver are named. Both the city of Vancouver and Greater Vancouver are served by public transportation. Some routes are also served by
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ferry (Sea Bus) and monorail (Sky Train). Numerous bridges span the numerous waterways that surround Vancouver. The Burrard Inlet, which separates North and West Vancouver—both part of Greater Vancouver—from the city is spanned by the resplendent Lions Gate Bridge. Further east is the Second Narrows Bridge, connecting the eastern part of the city with North Vancouver. The Cambie Street Bridge, Burrard Street Bridge, and Granville Street Bridge all span False Creek. Crossing the Fraser River to the south are the Arthur Laing Bridge, the Oak Street Bridge, the Knight Street Bridge, the Alex Fraser Bridge, the Puttallo Bridge, and the Port Mann Bridge. Bus, Commuter Rail, and Ferry Service TransLink operates the public transit system in Greater Vancouver. Its network of buses, combined with the Sky Train and Sea Bus fleet, covers more than 1,800 square kilometers (695 square miles). Greater Vancouver is divided into three fare zones, one of which is formed by the city of Vancouver. Major bus routes run from 5:00 AM to 2:00 AM. Most major bus routes in Vancouver run through the downtown core along Granville Street. Sky Train is a monorail system that moves passengers along a single line which runs back and forth from Surrey, a city just outside of Vancouver across the Fraser River, to the terminal located at the foot
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Vancouver
City Fact Comparison Indicator
Vancouver (Canada)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
1,987,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1867
753 BC
723 BC
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy)
$152
$193
$172
$129
Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
$73
$56
$59
$62
Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.)
$18
$14
$15
$16
$243
$173
$246
$207
Total daily costs Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
2
13
20
11
The Vancouver Sun
Akhbar El Yom/ Al Akhbar
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
189,823
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1886
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
of Granville Street. From here, the Sea Bus, part of the TransLink network, moves passengers to and from North Vancouver across the Burrard Inlet from the terminal. Physically-challenged residents who have special transportation needs are served by the van-sized HandyDART buses. Aquabus, a smaller fleet of privately operated small walkon ferries, transports shoppers from famous Granville Island to the downtown core. Sightseeing Vancouver’s four most popular attractions are Chinatown, Stanley Park, Granville Island, and Gastown.
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Chinatown is the largest of its kind in Canada and the third largest in North America. It is a vibrant and vital neighborhood, home to Asians of many different ethnic groups. With architecture dating back to the early 1900s, it is one of the oldest sections of Vancouver. Stanley Park, a 405-hectare (1,000-acre) park and forest that juts out into the Burrard Inlet, was once home to Vancouver’s original inhabitants, the Coast Salish. Granville Island, which is a human-made island, was transformed from an industrial section of Vancouver into a fresh-food market and artisans’ community by the federal government in the 1970s. Gastown, a historic site,
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Vancouver later became the town of Granville, which then became the city of Vancouver. 4
People
The City of Vancouver was home to 514,000 residents in 1998, with Greater Vancouver supporting a population of 1.9 million. During the early 1990s, Greater Vancouver experienced a 14 percent growth in population. It is the third-largest city in Canada behind Toronto and Montreal. Some predict visible minorities will form the majority of the city’s population during the first decade of the twenty-first century. Truly a multicultural city, Vancouver residents find their origins in more than 40 different ethnic and cultural groups. More than 100 different languages are spoken. Almost half of the city’s population, 44 percent, is of a visible minority. In 1991, it was estimated that there were more citizens of Chinese ancestry living in the city than any other single cultural or ethnic group. Residents of Chinese descent first came to Vancouver during the gold rush in 1858. Later, immigrants from China’s southern Guangdong province arrived as laborers to help build Canada’s transcontinental railway. Today, the majority of Chinese immigrants are from Hong Kong. Residents of English descent form the second largest ancestry group, and those of East Indian descent form the third largest group. Scottish, German, Filipino, Italian, and Irish account for
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the other major groups of ethnic ancestry. Most religions and denominations are represented and practiced in Vancouver. Christian, Animist, and Pagan worshippers live a harmonious existence beside those who practice Asian or middle-eastern religions like Islam and Hindu. 5
Neighborhoods
Vancouver is one of Canada’s most expensive cities in which to live. At the turn of the twenty-first century, modest single-family houses on the less expensive east side of the city hovered around the $300,000 mark. On the west side of Vancouver, the median price for a single-family home was around $500,000. Consequently, condominiums and loft developments with moderate mortgages sprung up throughout the city during the 1990s. In 1997 there were close to 4,000 condos sold on Vancouver’s west side. In 1998, near the end of the condo boom, this figure decreased to 2,500. In 1998, Vancouver’s apartment vacancy rate hovered just below three percent. There are a number of neighborhoods in the city whose names are often associated with the cultural or ethnic identity of their residents. Main Street between Forty-ninth Avenue and Fifty-first Avenue is the center of IndoPakistani Punjabi culture. In “Little India” one can find many shops, bazaars, and restaurants catering to East Indian residents. “Little Italy” on Commercial Drive is home to many of Van-
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Vancouver
Vancouver skyline. (George Hall; Woodfin Camp)
couver’s Italian Canadians. Chinatown is home the third-largest Chinatown in North America. Kitsilano, a middle-class neighborhood in the early 1900s, is bordered by Alma Street to the west and Arbutus Street to the east. At its most northern point lies one of Vancouver’s most famous beaches, Kits Beach, where sports enthusiasts and sun-worshippers gather during the summer months. The West End, which borders Stanley Park and English Bay, is home to Vancouver’s gay community, the largest of its type in Canada.
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6
History
The Coast Salish, a First Nations people, lived in what is now known as Greater Vancouver for more than 5,000 years. In the latter part of the 1700s, their main settlements were in Stanley Park, along the shores of the Burrard Inlet, along the Fraser River to the south, and at Larcarno Beach. In 1820, there were 25,000 Salish living on the banks of the Fraser River. The Salish had a highly developed culture and were known for their carpentry skill and canoe-making ability.
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Vancouver The first European to arrive in the area was José Maria Narváez, who sailed into the Burrard Inlet in 1791. However, in 1792 Capt. George Vancouver, in search of a northwest passage to Asia, stepped ashore and claimed the land for Britain. Although he only spent one day on the site, the city was later named after Capt. Vancouver. A fur trader named Simon Fraser (1776–1862) was the first explorer to make it to Vancouver by an inland route. In 1808, Fraser navigated the treacherous Fraser River, which spills into the Pacific Ocean at Vancouver. The first settlement in the area was 48 kilometers (30 miles) east of Vancouver. Fort Langley, as it is still known today, was an outpost for the Hudson’s Bay Company, a fur trading company whose original charter from the English Crown stated they were to control all land whose rivers and streams drained into Hudson’s Bay. The next wave of settlers arrived with the gold rush of 1858 when gold deposits were found in the sandy banks of the Fraser River east of Vancouver. Dreams of riches brought 300,000 prospectors to the area in search of wealth. In 1862 the first sawmill in the area was established at a site then called Moodyville. Three years later, the Hastings Mill was built in Chinatown to process the abundant fir, spruce, and cedar trees that filled the surrounding landscape. John Deighton, nicknamed “Gassy Jack” for his talkative nature, built a
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saloon near Hastings Mill. The community that grew around the saloon became known as Gastown. It was incorporated as the town of Granville in 1869, named after the British Duke of Granville, and today is one of Vancouver’s oldest neighborhoods. In 1886, the town of Granville became the city of Vancouver. The name was suggested by William Van Horne, vice president of the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR), in honor of the English explorer Capt. George Vancouver, who charted Burrard Inlet and adjacent waters in 1792. That Van Horne was able to name the new city illustrates the power the railway enjoyed during Vancouver’s formative years. The Vancouver Incorporation Act made Vancouver unique among British Columbia’s cities as it was granted its own charter rather than being governed by the Municipal Act. The second momentous occasion for the new city occurred in 1886 when a forest fire swept through the city and burned it to the ground. It was during this year that the city leased 405 hectares (1,000 acres) of land from the federal government for Stanley Park, Vancouver’s most famous landmark. One year later, the Canadian Pacific Railway made its way to the city, making Vancouver the last stop on Canada’s transcontinental railway. Its arrival was to have a dramatic affect. Still a small town with a modest 12,000 residents in 1886, Vancouver’s population boomed to over 120,000 by 1911.
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Vancouver At the turn of the twentieth century, the city’s focus began to shift from Gastown to the rail yards at the foot of Granville Street. Stone banks and department stores soon sprang up in the area to serve residents, many of whom still relied on forestry and fishing for their livelihood. The 1930s were a difficult period for Vancouver. Between 1932 and 1933, 15 percent of the population was living on relief or unemployment benefits. Cargo shipped from the port had been reduced by 30 percent from levels experienced in the roaring twenties. Just two years later, the city was on the verge of bankruptcy. Fortunately, the worst of the depression was over, and Vancouver soon experienced an upturn in its economy. Vancouver’s population grew rapidly after the end of World War II (1939–45). By 1951, the city was home to 345,000 residents. Cargo shipments from the port finally surpassed the highs experienced in the 1920s, and Vancouver began a period of rapid economic growth. 7
Government
Vancouver has a mayor and ten council members elected at-large. The municipal government is ruled by the powers and responsibilities set out by provincial legislation in the form of the Vancouver Charter. Including the police and parks staff, Vancouver has more than 5,100 full-time and 3,000 parttime staff with an annual municipal budget of over $500 million.
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There are nine trustees elected to the Vancouver School Board, which is responsible for setting policy for the city's primary and secondary schools and adult education programs. The Board of Parks and Recreation members oversee 169 parks and public recreation programs in Vancouver. Mayor, councilors, trustees, and board members are elected and serve three-year terms. 8
Public Safety
The Vancouver Police Department is responsible for most law enforcement issues in the city. The Royal Canadian Mounted Police also serve a role in law enforcement. There are 1,149 police members, 273 civilian members, 18 custodial guards, and eight police nurses on the force. The police are governed by the Vancouver Police Board under the authority of the British Columbia Police Act. The Police Board, which meets monthly, consists of the mayor and six other representative citizens of the city. The majority of policing carried out by the force is related to property theft, accounting for 87.2 percent of all crimes. Violent crime only accounted for eight-and-a-half percent. 9
Economy
Forestry, fishing, mines, and minerals have been Vancouver’s dominant resource-based industries for decades. Today, the city’s world-class port and proximity to Asia situates Vancouver as Canada’s gateway for goods imported
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Vancouver from Asia. Vancouver has been the leader in British Columbia’s focus on trade with Pacific Rim nations. Its lead role was set in stone when the city hosted the Asia-Pacific Economic Conference (APEC) in 1997. The port is one of North America’s busiest in terms of volume of foreign cargo. It exports more than 64 million metric tons (70 million tons) and imports more than nine million metric tons (10 million tons) each year. The harbor is also the leading dry-cargo port on the Pacific Coast shipping grain, coal, potash, sulfur, asbestos, metals, and other Western Canadian materials, such as wood and wood by-products. Tourism, the world’s fastest growing industry, has become a major force in the economy since Vancouver hosted the World Expo in 1986. Now, millions of visitors from all over the world flock to the city each year to enjoy its vibrant culture and natural beauty. Most head offices for provincewide business activity, and financial institutions are located in Vancouver. Vancouver is also home to a thriving motion picture business, which has earned the nickname of Hollywood North. Vancouver’s high technology sector is strong but lags behind that of other major Canadian cities. Greater Vancouver is the largest manufacturing center in British Columbia.
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Environment
Greater Vancouver was once lush with flora, fauna, and minerals. The North West Company, founded in Montreal in 1784, was the first to exploit the area’s animal life through its lucrative fur trade. The company was taken over by the Hudson’s Bay Company in 1827. An outpost was established by the company in Fort Langley, some 48 kilometers (30 miles) from the city of Vancouver. When gold was discovered in the bed of the Fraser River just outside Greater Vancouver in 1858, the area experienced its first real growth. In 1865, Hastings Mill was built in Chinatown to process the harvest of abundant fir and cedar logs that forested the mountains around the city. For the past 150 years, Vancouver has benefited from and relied on the forests of British Columbia to drive its economy. Vancouver’s natural harbor and the arrival of the railway by 1890 proved beneficial to the city in its role not only as a processing center but as a hub of export for British Columbia’s natural resources. The abundance of the Pacific Ocean fishery was a resource that benefited the Coast Salish in Vancouver long before the Europeans arrived and provided stable employment harvesting shellfish, salmon, halibut, red snapper, and other sea foods. Today the thriving fishery has all but vanished from the city.
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Vancouver Industry in Vancouver has been tied to the natural resources of its surrounding environment since it was first settled. Industry prospered by harvesting the rich forests and the plentiful food fishery in the Pacific Ocean. The city’s ability to transport goods to markets around the world has led to the development of the region’s industrial base, the largest in British Columbia. Since the forestry industry is an export-based economy, Vancouver continues to play a pivotal role. The Port of Vancouver provides the western provinces with access to major markets in the United States and Pacific Rim countries. 11
Shopping
The heart of Vancouver’s shopping district is its downtown core. The Pacific Centre and the Vancouver Centre are two conjoined underground malls with more than 300 hundred stores, including the Bay, Canada’s major department store. Above ground is Robson Street, a major retail strip that is home to many upscale shops bustling with shoppers from morning to night. Historic Gastown caters to tourists in the market for Vancouver souvenirs and First Nations art and crafts. Along Commercial Drive in East Vancouver, shoppers will find a mix of cultures and funky stores aimed at more adventurous tourists.
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Granville Island, in the False Creek neighborhood, is home to artisan studios and a famous market often featuring free live entertainment that reflects the multicultural tastes of Vancouverites. Potters, glass blowers, sculptors, print makers, and a variety of other artisans work in their studios on the island, and many of their wares are available for sale. 12
Education
The Vancouver School Board, overseeing the largest school district in British Columbia, is responsible for the operation and administration of the city's primary and secondary schools, as well as its adult education programs. Children over the age of seven and under the age of 15 are required to attend school. The school year begins the day after Labour Day for primary, junior, and senior high schools. A school day usually runs from 9:00 AM to 3:00 PM, Monday through Friday. Vancouver’s first public school, Granville School, opened on the shores of the Burrard Inlet in 1872. Today, there are more than 56,000 students enrolled in Vancouver’s 73 elementary schools, 18 primary annexes, and 18 secondary schools. The board has a yearly operating budget of over $350 million and employs more than 3,200 teachers. Reflecting the multicultural make-up of the city, Vancouver schools have the highest percentage of English as a Second Language (ESL) students in the province, who represent more than 100
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Vancouver different language groups. Continuing education programs administered by the board are attended by more than 80,000 adults each year. The University of British Columbia, only 30 minutes from downtown Vancouver, is home to the Museum of Anthropology, the Chan Centre for the Arts, and the UBC Botanical Garden. The university opened its doors in 1915 with three faculties: Arts and Science, Applied Science, and Agriculture. Enrollment has grown from a meager 379 students in 1915 to 51,227 in 1998. Simon Fraser University serves 17,000 students with more than 100 programs. The main campus is located on top of Burnaby Mountain, only 13 kilometers (eight miles) from Vancouver, with a satellite campus at Harbour Centre in downtown Vancouver. In addition, there are numerous private schools, colleges, and universities in the Greater Vancouver region. 13
Health Care
Like all Canadian citizens, Vancouver residents enjoy a government subsidized health care program. In Vancouver, health care services are administered by the Vancouver-Richmond Health Board, a number of hospital boards, health centers, other health service groups, and community health groups. Vancouver is also where many medical associations, such as the British Columbia (B.C.) College of Physicians and Surgeons, locate their head offices. British Columbia’s Children’s Hospital and B.C. Women’s Hospital are
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two facilities providing services that cater to the specialized needs their patients. Research facilities at the University of British Columbia and the B.C. Cancer Research Centre continue to secure British Columbia’s role as a leader in health care research in Canada. 14
Media
Vancouver is home to a thriving publishing industry. Two major newspapers—The Province, a tabloid format, and The Vancouver Sun—are published daily. A free, weekly entertainment guide, The Georgia Straight, is distributed every Thursday. In 1997, there were 42 publications serving Vancouver’s ethnic communities. There are 15 major radio stations in the Greater Vancouver market. While Vancouver has access to as many as 70 television stations, only eight originate in Greater Vancouver; three of the eight have their offices in the city of Vancouver. 15
Sports
Vancouver’s most famous sporting event took place on August 7, 1954, when runners Roger Bannister and John Landy competed during the British Empire Games (an inter-Empire sports meet now known as the British Commonwealth Games). This was the first time two men had broken the fourminute mile in the same race. Vancouver, a sporting town, is home to a number of professional sports teams. The Vancouver Canucks
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Vancouver have played in the National Hockey League since 1968. The team draws crowds of up to 18,000 fans. The team came close to winning the Stanley Cup in 1994 when the series against the New York Rangers went to seven games. The B.C. Lions have won three Grey Cups since joining the Canadian Football League in 1954. The Vancouver 86ers, the city’s soccer team, compete in the American Professional Soccer League. The team has won the North American title once. Annually during the last weekend in August, Pacific Boulevard in downtown Vancouver is turned into a Formula One racetrack while the city plays host to the Molson Indy Vancouver. Cars reach speeds upwards of 306 kilometers (190 miles) per hour during the two-hour, 290-kilometer (180-mile) race. The Vancouver Grizzlies joined the ranks of the National Basketball Association (NBA) in the 1995–96 season as part of the league’s expansion into Canada. Vancouver and Toronto became the first non-U.S. cities to join the league since 1946–47, when the Toronto Huskies were one-year members of the NBA’s forerunner, the Basketball Association of America. After being officially accepted into the fold by the NBA’s Board of Governors on April 27, 1994, Vancouver became the league’s twenty-ninth franchise.
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Water activities such as sailing can be enjoyed in Vancouver’s natural harbor. (George Hall; Woodfin Camp)
16
Parks and Recreation
Stanley Park is the most famous park in Vancouver. Its 405 hectares (1,000 acres) of parkland were leased from the federal government in 1886. Named after Lord Stanley, Governor General of Canada when the park opened in 1888, it plays host to an estimated eight million people each year. Tourists enjoy the park’s lush forest, pitch and putt golf course, many
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Vancouver beaches, heated ocean-side swimming pool, 8.85-kilometer (5.5-mile) seawall walk that circles the perimeter of the park, and the Vancouver Aquarium. Lost Lagoon, another popular area in the park, is a freshwater pond, home to many resident and migratory birds throughout the year. The 53-hectare (130-acre) Queen Elizabeth Park is one of the most beautifully maintained public parks in the world. It receives nearly six million visitors a year. It is known for its lush gardens and view of the city. There are 169 parks and public recreation programs in Vancouver. 17
Performing Arts
Vancouver is renowned for its rich cultural fabric. The performing arts are an integral part of the quality of life enjoyed by Vancouver residents and tourists alike. In Greater Vancouver there are 670 non-profit cultural organizations, 120 theatres, 110 motion picture production and studio companies, 91 dance schools, 90 music schools, 24 theatre schools, 21 municipally-owned cultural centers/art studios, 15 television production companies, and eight television stations. Studies indicate that as many as 80 percent of the region’s adult residents attend cultural events each year. Many travel from within the region to Vancouver where major events are held in the city’s numerous venues.
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The Orpheum, built in 1927, is home of the Vancouver Symphony Orchestra and several choirs. Performances entertain 400,000 patrons, 200 nights every year. The Ford Centre for Performing Arts, which opened in 1995, features large touring productions, such as the Phantom of the Opera, Ragtime, and Riverdance. The Queen Elizabeth Theatre and Playhouse is where smaller touring Broadway musicals, opera, and dance performances are staged. It also is home to the Vancouver Playhouse Theatre Company. 18
Libraries and Museums
The Vancouver Public Library, located downtown at 350 West Georgia has more than eight million volumes in its collection. This translates to almost 16 volumes per resident. It is the second-largest collection in Canada, with 20 library branches scattered throughout the city. Vancouver’s favorite museum, the Museum of Anthropology, located on the University of British Columbia grounds, houses artifacts from all over the world with a focus on the art of First Nations peoples. The city’s nautical past is explored in the Vancouver Maritime Museum. The museum’s highlight is a completely restored two-masted schooner, the 1928 St. Roch, the first ship to sail the difficult and deadly Northwest Passage. The
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Vancouver voyage took the crew two years to complete. The museum also houses original maps from Capt. George Vancouver’s journeys. The Vancouver Museum, another major museum, celebrates the cultural heritage and natural history of the Lower Mainland. The Pacific Space Centre is where Vancouver reaches to the stars and explores the solar system and space flight. 19
To u r i s m
Tourism is becoming the backbone of Vancouver’s economy. Tourists added $2.5 billion in spending to the city’s economy in 1998. Since the world discovered Vancouver during the 1986 World Expo, the number of tourists coming to the city each year hovers around the six million mark. In fact, in the year prior to hosting the World Expo, Greater Vancouver played host to about 3.8 million tourists. During 1986 and since, the number of visitors has not fallen below 5.7 million. The city has also capitalized on its proximity to America to the south and the low Canadian dollar (U.S.$0.65 = Can$1 in 1999), drawing American tourists with bargain prices. The city is well situated to funnel tourists heading to popular destinations, like the Gulf Islands and Vancouver Island to the west. With two ski mountains just minutes from the city
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and two world-class resorts just hours away, Vancouver also enjoys a brisk winter tourist season. The bulk of tourist activity, however, is during the spring, summer, and fall months when precipitation is minimal, and temperatures are comfortable. A walking tour of Gastown, Chinatown, and the smaller Japantown highlights the early history of Vancouver. On route in Gastown is a statue of John Deighton, nicknamed “Gassy Jack” for his talkative nature and for whom the neighborhood of Gastown is named. Also of interest is Gallery Row, between Sixth Avenue and Fifteenth Avenue on Granville Street where a number of private galleries show internationally celebrated local artists. The Vancouver Art Gallery in the heart of downtown Vancouver houses a permanent collection that celebrates the art of famous British Columbia artists such as Emily Carr (1871–1945), a contemporary of Canada’s famous Group of Seven (a group of artists that believed Canadian art must be truly inspired by Canada itself). The building, once Vancouver’s courthouse, was built in 1911 and transformed into an art gallery in 1983.
20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Polar Bear Swim Chinese New Year Women in View Festival
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Vancouver FEBRUARY Spring Home Show Groundhog Day
MARCH B.C. Great Outdoors Show Vancouver Storytelling Festival St. Patrick’s Day
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Famous Citizens
Brian Adams (b. 1959), rock star. Kim Campbell (b. 1947), Canada’s first female Prime Minister.
APRIL
Glen Clark (premier 1996–99), former Premier of British Columbia.
The Vancouver Sun Fun Run The Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival
Bill Reid (1920–98), world-renowned native artist.
MAY Victoria Day, third Monday in May Vancouver International Children’s Festival Vancouver International Marathon
JUNE International Dragon Boat Festival Vancouver International Jazz Festival Bard on the Beach
JULY Canada Day Symphony of Fire Vancouver Chamber Music Festival Vancouver Early Music Festival Theatre Under the Stars
AUGUST British Columbia Day Vancouver Folk Music Festival Vancouver International Comedy Festival Greater Vancouver Open
SEPTEMBER Labour Day Molson Indy Vancouver Terry Fox Run
OCTOBER Thanksgiving Vancouver International Film Festival Vancouver Writers and Readers Festival
NOVEMBER Annual Antique Show All Saints Day
DECEMBER Christmas Carol Ship Parade VanDusen Garden’s Festival of Lights
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For Further Study
Websites City of Vancouver. [Online] Available http:// www.city.vancouver.bc.ca. (accessed December 13, 1999). DiscoverVancouver. [Online] Available http:// www.discovervancouver.com (accessed December 13, 1999). Greater Vancouver Regional District. [Online] Available http://www.gvrd.bc.ca (accessed December 13, 1999). TourismVancouver. [Online] Available http:// www.tourism-vancouver.org (accessed December 13, 1999). Vancouver Convention and Exhibition Centre. [Online] Available http://www.vtcc.com (accessed December 13, 1999).
Government Offices City of Vancouver 453 W. 12th Ave. Vancouver, British Columbia V5Y 1V4 604 873–7011 Economic Development Commission 608 West Cordova Vancouver, British Columbia V6B 5A7 604 632–9668 fax: 604 632–9788 Greater Vancouver Regional District 4330 Kingsway Burnaby, British Columbia V5H 4G8 604 432–6200
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Tourism Vancouver The Greater Vancouver Convention and
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Vancouver Visitors Bureau 200 Burrard Street, Suite 210 Vancouver, British Columbia V6C 3L6 Tel: 604.682.2222 Fax: 604.682.1717 Vancouver Convention and Exhibition Centre 999 Canada Place, Suite 200 Vancouver, British Columbia V6C 3C1 Tel: (604) 689-8232, Fax: (604) 647-7232 Vancouver Tourist Info Centre 200 Burrard Street, Plaza Level Vancouver, British Columbia V6C 3L6 Tel: 604.683.2000 Fax: 604.682.6839
Publications The Province 200 Granville Street Vancouver, B.C. V6C 3N3 604 605–2222 Vancouver (magazine) 555 W12th Ave Vancouver, B.C. V5Z 4L4 604 877–7732 The Vancouver Sun 200 Granville Street Vancouver, B.C. V6C 3N3 604 605–2111
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Books The Arts in Vancouver: A Multi-million-dollar Industry. Vancouver: Community Arts Council of Vancouver, 1976. Baker, Carol. Essential Vancouver and British Columbia. Basingstoke, Hampshire: AA Publishing, 1996. Garber, Anne, John T. D. Keyes, Lorraine Gannon. Exploring Ethnic Vancouver. Burnaby: Serious Publishing, 1995. Hacking, Norman R. History of the Port of Vancouver. Vancouver: Port of Vancouver, 1977. Hull, Raymond, Gordon Soules, Christine Soules. Vancouver’s Past. Seattle: University of Washington Press, 1974. Kloppenborg, Anne, Alice Niwinski, Eve Johnson. Vancouver’s First Century. Vancouver: Douglas & McIntyre, 1985. Lees, Judi, Terri Wershler. Vancouver, The Ultimate Guide. Vancouver: Greystone Books, 1999. Longus, Pierre, Paul-Eric Dumontier, François Rémillard. Vancouver. Ulysses Travel Publications, 1998. McDonald, Robert A. J., Jean Barman. Vancouver Past, Essays in Social History. Vancouver: UBC Press, 1986. Paterson, T. W. Disaster: Tales of Heroes and Hardship in the Face of Catastrophe. Burnaby: Solitaire Publications, 1973. Robson, Reginald A. H. Ethnic Conflict in Vancouver. Vancouver: B.C. Civil Liberties Assoc., 1985.
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W a s h i n g t o n, D.C. Washington, District of Columbia, United States of America, North America Founded: 1790; Incorporated: 1790 Location: Potomac and Anacostia Rivers, United States, North America Motto: Justitia omnibus (“Justice for all”) Flower: American Beauty rose Time Zone: 7 AM Eastern Standard Time (EST) = noon Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) Ethnic Composition: White, 32.2%; Black, 65.8%; Asian/Pacific Islander, 1.8% Elevation: 7–128 m (25–420 ft) above sea level Latitude and Longitude: 38º89'N, 77º03'W Climate: Mild winters; hot, muggy summers with high humidity; pleasant fall and spring weather Annual Mean Temperature: 12.2ºC (54.0ºF); January 2.0ºC (35.6ºF); July 25.9ºC (78.7ºF) Seasonal Average Snowfall: 5 cm (2 in) Average Annual Precipitation (total rainfall and melted snow): 99 cm (39 in) Government: Mayor-council Weights and Measures: Standard U.S. Monetary Units: Standard U.S. Telephone Area Codes: 202 Postal Codes: 20001–99; 20101–04; 20201–99; 20301–34; 20336; 20501–99
1
Introduction
Washington, D.C., the nation’s capital, is located on the bank of the Potomac River, between the Blue Ridge Mountains and the Chesapeake Bay. Although it has been the seat of the United States government since 1800, it took over a century until the dream of the city’s late-eighteenth-century planners—a sophisticated capital with gracious avenues and classic architecture— was realized. In the twentieth century, Washington became a major nexus of national power and influence. At the dawn of the twenty-first century, it is also a cosmopolitan cultural center that draws millions of visitors annually to
such sites as the Smithsonian museums, the Library of Congress, and the Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts, as well as to its historic monuments and government buildings. 2
Getting There
Washington, D.C., is situated along the Potomac River, on the Atlantic coastal plain between the Chesapeake Bay and the Blue Ridge Mountains. It is bordered by Maryland on three sides and by Virginia on the fourth. Highways Major interstate routes that access Washington, D.C., include Routes 540
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Washington, D.C.
Washington D.C. Population Profile City Proper Population: 567,000 Area: 159 sq km (61.4 sq mi) Ethnic composition: 32.2% white; 65.8% black; 1.8% Asian/Pacific Islander Nicknames: The Capital; The Beltway; The City of Trees
Metropolitan Area Population: 3,927,000 Description: The District of Columbia and surrounding communities Area: 16,861 sq km (6,510 sq mi) World population rank1: 61 Percentage of national population2: 1.4% Average yearly growth rate: 1.3% Ethnic composition: 68.1% white; 25.4% black; 6.2% Asian/Pacific Islander ——— 1. The Washington D.C. metropolitan area’s rank among the world’s urban areas. 2. The percent of the United States’ total population living in the Washington D.C. metropolitan area.
and 50/301 from the east; Routes 7, 50, I-66, and 29/211 from the west; I-270 and I-295 from the north; and Routes 301 and 1 from the south. All other highways reach the city through the Beltway (I-459 and I-95). This heavily traveled and often congested 106-kilometer (66-mile) highway encircling Washington has led to the popular practice of describing events or trends in the capital as “inside the Beltway.” Bus and Railroad Service With its terminal at First Street N.E. and L Street, Greyhound offers bus ser-
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vice to Washington from almost any point in the nation. Amtrak trains arrive in Washington daily from New York, Boston, Chicago, and Los Angeles (via Chicago). The capital’s train depot, the historic and stately Union Station on Massachusetts Avenue, underwent an elaborate restoration in the 1980s and is the site of a three-level mall featuring a variety of shops and restaurants. Airports Three airports serve the Washington area—Washington Dulles International Airport, Washington National Airport, and Baltimore-Washington International Airport. Washington National and Baltimore-Washington have recently been renovated, and Dulles airport is in the midst of a major long-term expansion project that will add an underground “people mover” system to transport passengers to and from terminals. All of the major domestic carriers and international carriers, including Air Canada, Air France, British Airways, KLM, Lufthanse, Swissair, and Virgin Atlantic, serve the Washington, D.C., airports. Both Delta Airlines and US Airways operate shuttle flights between Washington and New York City. Frequent weekday service is also available to Boston and Chicago. Shipping All three of Washington’s airports handle air freight, and the city has a shipping port on the Anacostia and Potomac rivers. Most of its shipping is done, however, through ports in the
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Washington, D.C.
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Washington, D.C. neighboring states of Maryland and Virginia, in the cities of Baltimore, Norfolk, and Alexandria. 3
Getting Around
Laid out by engineer Pierre L’Enfant (1754–1825), Washington, D.C., was planned as a network of eastwest and north-south streets intersected diagonally by wide avenues named for the states. The east-west streets are designated by letters of the alphabet; north-south streets by numbers. The Capitol Building is the central point from which the city is divided into quadrants (Northeast, Northwest, Southeast, and Southwest). The 1.6kilometer- (one-mile-) long National Mall runs westward from the Capitol, bounded by Constitution Avenue on the north and Independence Avenue on the south. Traffic circles, graced by monuments, fountains, and statues, are located at various intersections, with streets radiating outward diagonally from each one. Bus and Commuter Rail Service Regional rail and bus service in the Washington area is operated by the Washington Metropolitan Area Transit Authority (WMATA), created in 1967. Ridership in 1998–99 averaged 383,000 rail, 214,000 bus, and 156,000 combined rail-bus trips. The Metrorail commuter rail service operates on 149 kilometers (92.4) miles of rail line and has 78 stations. The bus system operates a fleet 1,314 buses, with 12,000 bus stops and 1,000 bus shelters.
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Sightseeing Organized sightseeing tours of Washington are available on every conceivable mode of transportation— including bus, trolley, helicopter, boat, and even “duck” tours on amphibious vehicles—and including a variety of specific theme tours, such as historic houses and even a popular “Scandal Tour.” Some tours include sights somewhat further afield, such as Mount Vernon, Alexandria, and Arlington National Cemetery. A number of boat companies offer cruises of the Potomac River that include narrated tours of the famous sights visible on shore. In addition, many of the capital’s historic sights can be toured on foot. 4
People
In 1990, the population of Washington, D.C., was 697,000, with the following racial composition: 65.8 percent black, 32.2 percent white, and 1.8 percent Asian/Pacific Islander, with other groups accounting for percentages of less than one percent. Hispanics (an ethnic rather than a racial designation) accounted for 5.4 percent of the population. The 1994 population estimate was 567,000. The population of the Washington, D.C., Primary Metropolitan Statistical Area was estimated at 4,603,030 as of 1997. The region’s racial composition was listed by the U.S. Census Bureau in 1996 as 68.1 percent white, 25.4 percent black, and 6.2 percent Asian/Pacific Islander. Hispanics accounted for 6.8 percent of the metropolitan area population.
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Washington, D.C.
City Fact Comparison Washington D.C. (United States)
Cairo (Egypt)
Rome (Italy)
Beijing (China)
Population of urban area1
3,927,000
10,772,000
2,688,000
12,033,000
Date the city was founded
1790
753 BC
723 BC
$172
$129
Indicator
Daily costs to visit the
AD
969
city2
Hotel (single occupancy) Meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner) Incidentals (laundry, dry cleaning, etc.) Total daily costs
$118
$193
$44
$56
$59
$62
$2
$14
$15
$16
$164
$173
$246
$207
2
13
20
11
La Repubblica
Renmin Ribao
Major Newspapers3 Number of newspapers serving the city Largest newspaper Circulation of largest newspaper Date largest newspaper was established
The Washington Akhbar El Yom/ Post Al Akhbar 759,122
1,159,339
754,930
3,000,000
1877
1944
1976
1948
1 United
Nations population estimates for the year 2000. maximum amount the U.S. Government reimburses its employees for business travel. The lodging portion of the allowance is based on the cost for a single room at a moderately-priced hotel. The meal portion is based on the costs of an average breakfast, lunch, and dinner including taxes, service charges, and customary tips. Incidental travel expenses include such things as laundry and dry cleaning. 3 David Maddux, ed. Editor&Publisher International Year Book. New York: The Editor&Publisher Company, 1999. 2 The
5
Neighborhoods
The Adams-Morgan neighborhood, clustered around Eighteenth Street and Columbia Road N.W., is a colorful multi-ethnic community, one of the first in the country to integrate its public schools. With its distinctly Latin atmosphere, it is known for its ethnic grocery stores, street vendors, galleries, shops, and boutiques, and its restaurants feature a wide variety of ethnic cuisine. Capitol Hill, or “the Hill,” includes not just the Capitol itself but also the Library of Congress, the Senate and House Office Buildings, the Folger
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Shakespeare Library, Union Station, and the Supreme Court Building. Surrounding these buildings is a quiet residential neighborhood of Federal and Civil Warperiod homes, as well as many art galleries, shops, cafes, and restaurants, as well as a farmer’s market. Washington’s “downtown” is its business district. In addition to the White House and Lafayette Park, it includes government office buildings, shops, restaurants, theaters, hotels, and Washington’s Chinatown. DuPont Circle, located at the intersection of Massachusetts, Connecticut, and New Hampshire avenues, is a popular cultural hot spot that is home to museums, galleries, bookstores (includ-
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Washington, D.C.
The Washington Monument (tall obelisk, left) and the Jefferson Memorial (round monument, center) are two well-known Washington landmarks. (Dick Durrancell; Woodfin Camp)
ing some open 24 hours a day), and movie theaters, in an atmosphere of aristocratic rowhouses. Historic Georgetown—settled c. 1665, during the Colonial era, before the city of Washington itself—has long been one of the Capital’s most upscale neighborhoods and the residence of many leading government figures and other prominent Washingtonians. The Foggy Bottom area, between the White House and Georgetown, gets its name from the marshlands that were formerly located there. Today it is the
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site of the State Department, the Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts, and George Washington University. The historic Brookland and Shaw communities have been home to many prominent African Americans, including jazz musician Edward “Duke” Ellington (1899–1974), singer Pearl Bailey (1918–1990), and Nobel Peace Prize winner Ralph Bunche (1904– 1971). Embassy Row, on Massachusetts Avenue, is home to most of the capital’s
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Washington, D.C. 150 foreign embassies, many housed in palatial mansions that are former homes of the Washington social elite. 6
History
In the early years of the Republic, Congress met in more than half a dozen cities before arrangements were made for a permanent capital. The nation’s lawmakers eventually proposed the construction of an entirely new city, to be built expressly for the purpose of serving as capital of the fledgling country. The choice of a location necessitated compromises between the different regions of the new country. The Potomac River was settled on as the general region, and George Washington was appointed to select the exact site, to be no larger than 26 square kilometers (ten square miles) in area. French military engineer Pierre Charles L’Enfant was hired to design the city, and in 1791 he laid out the capital’s pattern of broad avenues radiating outward from central circles and squares graced by monuments and fountains. Unfortunately, L’Enfant proved difficult to work with; the Frenchman was fired after one year, and his plans were completed by surveyor Andrew Ellicott, with the aid of Benjamin Banneker, an African-American mathematician and astronomer. By 1800 one wing of the Capitol building had been completed. Abandoning the previous capital site in Philadelphia, the Congress moved into its new quarters, and President John Adams moved into the Executive Mansion.
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The city was incorporated in 1802, and a local government—whose structure and operations were to change many times over the years—was formed. However, it took many years until the muddy swampland on the shores of the Potomac conformed to the dreams of the city’s founders. The city received a major setback soon after its founding when many of its buildings—including the Capitol building and the executive mansion—were burned down by the British in the War of 1812. Citizens were determined to rebuild, however, and the charred walls of the executive residence were painted white, giving the building its present name, the White House. Development of the region remained slow in the first half of the nineteenth century, and foreign diplomats and other visitors regularly chided the Americans for the provincial nature of their capital city. During the Civil War (1861–65), the capital became an important supply center for the Union army, as well as a medical base and a refuge for former slaves. Wartime traffic doubled the city’s population, from 60,000 to 120,000. At the war’s end, Washington was also the scene of one of our great national tragedies, as President Abraham Lincoln (1809–1865; president 1860–65) was assassinated while attending a performance at Ford’s Theatre in April 1865. Washington underwent significant improvement in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, thanks largely to the efforts of two men. Alexander “Boss” Shepherd, an influential
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Washington, D.C. lier by the city’s original planners. The McMillan Commission (which included noted landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted [1822–1903] and architect Charles McKim [1847–1909], among others—was responsible for numerous improvements. The city’s park system was expanded; the Lincoln Memorial and other buildings were designed; the Mall was improved; and Union Station was designed and built. In 1910 President William Howard Taft (1857–1930; president 1909–13) appointed a Commission of Fine Arts to design the monuments and fountains called for in the initial plans drawn up by L’Enfant. The construction of public buildings in the capital received a further boost from the creation of the Works Progress Administration during the 1930s.
The U.S. Capitol in Washington, D.C. is the home of the U.S. Congress, the law-making branch of the national government. (Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp)
political figure during the presidency of Ulysses S. Grant (1822–1885; president 1868–77), and governor of the District of Columbia from 1873, was the driving force behind major infrastructure improvements, including street paving and lighting, sewer construction, and the creation of city parks. In the early 1900s, Michigan Senator James McMillan was instrumental in establishing a commission charged with completing the great monuments and public spaces envisioned a century ear-
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World War II (1939–45) brought further expansion to the capital, and as the postwar decades unfolded, Washington, now a major urban center, began to experience some of the same problems as its counterparts—crime, budget problems, and flight to the surrounding suburbs. The capital also became a focal point for major public controversies. Thousands marched on Washington to protest racial inequality in 1963 when the Reverend Martin Luther King Jr. (1929–68) delivered his “I Have a Dream” speech at the Lincoln Memorial; race riots erupted after the assassination of King in 1968; and the city became the scene of massive public demonstrations against the Vietnam War (1954–1975). Washington’s local government has been attended by scandal and con-
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Washington, D.C. troversy with the mayoral terms of Marion Barry, Jr., who was returned to office in 1994 after serving time in prison for drug possession. The city’s financial woes, which have brought it to the brink of bankruptcy, have resulted in federal control of its finances since 1995. However, in spite of its problems, Washington remains a vital and muchvisited city. It added the U.S. Holocaust Memorial Museum and the Korean War Veterans Memorial to its roster of major public commemorative sites in the 1990s. 7
The District of Columbia Fire Department is composed of 32 engine companies, 16 truck companies, and three heavy-duty rescue squads. The department also operates a hazardous materials unit, an air unit, and two fireboats. Its six battalions protect an area of 179 square kilometers (69 square miles) and a daytime population of more than one million.
Government
The District of Columbia is unique in that it is governed as a city, county, and state all at the same time. Since 1790 the government of the district has alternated between federal and local control. Under the terms of a 1973 charter, the capital is currently governed by a mayor and a 13-member council, both popularly elected. Eight council members are elected from specific wards and the rest at large. However, Congress must still approve all laws passed by the local government, as well as its budget. Residents of Washington, D.C., won the right to vote in presidential elections in 1961 and the right to a single non-voting Congressional delegate in 1970. 8
vated assaults. Property crimes totaled 9,505 and included 1,838 burglaries, 5,827 cases of larceny/theft, and 1,840 motor vehicle thefts.
Public Safety
In 1995, violent crimes reported to police (per 100,000 population) totaled 2,662 and included 65 murders, 53 rapes, 1,239 robberies, and 1,305 aggra-
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Economy
In recent decades the private sector has played a growing role in Washington’s economy. In the 1990s less than 20 percent of the capital’s work force was employed by the federal government. Important contributors to the District’s economy include the service sector (which employs one out of every three workers), high-technology companies (for whom the federal government provides the world’s largest market), financial institutions, printing and publishing, and telecommunications. The largest non-government employers are George Washington University, the Potomac Electric Power Company, Georgetown University, Howard University, The Washington Post, Bell Atlantic Washington, and the Federal National Mortgage Association. In addition, a substantial segment of the capital’s business is conducted by the 1,000-plus special-interest groups
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Washington, D.C. and national associations who maintain headquarters there. 10
Environment
The Chesapeake Bay, which dominates the ecology of the Washington, D.C., area, is an estuary (a meeting place for freshwater and saltwater). It occupies a delta composed of some 48 navigable rivers and numerous streams known collectively as the Tidewater. Pollution of the bay has long posed a threat to the regional environment. Historically, the major contaminant was raw sewage; today agricultural runoff and industrial pollutants are causes for concern. Since the 1970s environmental groups, notably Save the Bay and the Chesapeake Bay Foundation, have led the fight to preserve the quality of the Bay’s water and the ecological balance of the region. 11
Shopping
The Washington area has a wide variety of stores. The city’s major shopping venue is the refurbished Union Station, whose three-level arcade abounds in stores of all kinds, as well as numerous restaurants. During the week, Connecticut Avenue N.W. is also a bustling retail center featuring many major chain stores, from Brooks Brothers and Talbot’s to Filene’s Basement. Other areas popular with shoppers are AdamsMorgan, with its multicultural atmosphere, fashionable Georgetown, and the shopping district on Upper Wisconsin Avenue N.W., in the residential district known as Friendship Heights (and
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Chevy Chase on the Maryland side), which features upscale stores including Saks Fifth Avenue, Lord & Taylor, Neiman-Marcus, Tiffany’s, and Gianni Versace. 12
Education
Washington, D.C., has a well-educated population—more than 25 percent of the population 25-years-old and over have at least an undergraduate college education. In the fall of 1996 the District of Columbia Public School System enrolled 78,648 students in grades K through 12; 3.9 percent were white, and 96.1 percent belonged to minorities. The school system operated 184 schools with 5,288 teachers; pupilteacher ratio stood at 14.9 to one, and staff totaled 9,318. Washington, D.C., is home to a number of well-known colleges and universities, including Georgetown University, the country’s oldest Roman Catholic university, renowned for its school of international affairs and other departments; Howard University, which has a distinguished tradition as an educational institution for African Americans; Gallaudet, the world’s only liberal arts college for the deaf and hearing impaired; and Johns Hopkins University, known for academic excellence in medicine and other fields. Other well-known colleges and universities in the Washington, D.C., area include American University, George Washington University, Catholic University, Mount Vernon and Trinity colleges, and the University of the
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Washington, D.C. District of Columbia. The capital is also home to a number of licensed technical and trade schools. Nearby Maryland is home to the U.S. Naval Academy and the unique St. John’s College, the “Great Books School,” which offers a rigorous and unorthodox curriculum of Greek and Latin classics studied in their original languages, as well as great works from later eras. 13
Health Care
The major health-care institution in the Washington, D.C., area is Georgetown University Medical Center, which encompasses a hospital, a physician practice, research facilities, a nursing school, a cancer center, and an institute for neuroscience research. In its centenary year, the university hospital, founded in 1898, had 335 staffed beds and recorded 14,603 admissions and 175,322 outpatient visits. More than 2,000 persons were employed at the facility. Altogether, the healthcare system affiliated with the university offers services by 1,500 providers at 18 facilities in the District of Columbia, Maryland, and Virginia. Children’s National Medical Center, an integrated health-care system dedicated solely to treating children, is recognized internationally as a leader in pediatric care. Its medical staff of more than 200 consists of faculty members at the George Washington University School of Medicine. Washington, D.C., is also home to the Walter Reed Army Medical Center,
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the U.S. army’s largest health-care facility. In 1995, the Washington, D.C., metropolitan statistical area was served by 9,627 office-based physicians and 42 community hospitals, with a total of 9,836 beds. 14
Media
The capital’s major newspaper is the nationally influential Pulitzer Prizewinning Washington Post, which combines local articles with coverage of federal government activities and national issues. In 1998 it had a circulation of 709,578 daily and 1,080,082 on Sunday. Also published daily is the smaller and more conservative Washington Times. The national daily newspaper USA Today is published in nearby Arlington, Virginia. Hundreds of specialized periodicals are published in the Washington, D.C., area. The major regionalinterest monthly publication is Washingtonian Magazine. The capital has six television stations and more than a dozen AM and FM stations. Washington is also the site of National Public Radio’s headquarters, from which major news programs, such as Morning Edition and All Things Considered, are broadcast. 15
Sports
The popular Washington Redskins of the National Football League played at Robert F. Kennedy Stadium until 1997 when they moved to the newly completed 78,600-seat Jack Kent Cooke
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Washington, D.C. Stadium in suburban Maryland. Washington, D.C., has not had its own major league baseball team since the Senators left for Texas two decades ago, so the area’s baseball fans have transferred their allegiance to the Baltimore Orioles of the American League, who play at the historic Camden Yards ball park. In basketball, the Washington Wizards (formerly the Washington Bullets) play at the modern MCI Center in downtown Washington, which is also home to the Washington Capitals hockey team of the NHL. Georgetown University’s basketball team, the Hoyas, has a loyal following among Washingtonians. Washington also has a major league soccer team, DC United, which won the first U.S. national soccer championship in 1996. 16
Parks and Recreation
The Washington, D.C., area has thousands of acres of parkland. East and West Potomac Parks, located on either side of the Tidal Basin, are famous for their cherry trees, which bloom in early spring every year. Altogether, the two parks have more than 3,000 of these trees. The parks also offer facilities for hiking, bicycling, tennis, golf, swimming, and picnicking. Located in West Potomac Park are the Lincoln, Jefferson, Franklin Delano Roosevelt, Korean, and Vietnam memorials, a reflecting pool, and a small island inhabited by ducks.
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The 708-hectare (1,750-acre) Rock Creek Park, also located within the District of Columbia, stretches from the Potomac River to the Maryland border. The park offers hiking trails, a variety of sports facilities, playgrounds, an amphitheater, and a nature center. Another outdoor venue popular with Washington’s residents and visitors is Theodore Roosevelt Island, a wilderness preserve covering 36 hectares (88 acres). The C&O Canal features a 296-kilometer (184-mile) towpath and is used by walkers, joggers, cyclists, picnickers, and boaters. In addition to its parks, Washington’s scenic attractions include several exceptional gardens that are open to the public. The Enid A. Haupt Garden has two underground museums and features elaborate plantings of trees and flowers. The historic United States Botanic Garden, planned by George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, and James Madison and opened in 1820, offers greenhouses, a conservatory, and other buildings. The 180-hectare (444acre) United States National Arboretum, geared primarily toward education and research, includes the National Bonsai and Penjing Museum featuring miniature trees from Japan; the nation’s largest planting of azaleas; a Japanese garden; and an herbarium and herb garden. 17
Performing Arts
The Washington Symphony Orchestra, declared the official symphony orchestra of Washington, D.C.,
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Washington, D.C. in 1993, has a history dating back to 1934, when the ensemble was formed under the name Washington Civic Symphony. In the past decade, under music director Martin Piecuch, the orchestra has attracted increasing audiences and performed with a number of internationally known soloists, including Robert Merrill and Victor Borge. The group has also continued to evolve its mission of community outreach, with both philanthropic and audience support. The orchestra performs in the concert hall of the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts. The Kennedy Center’s opera house is the home of the Washington Opera, which stages its smaller-scale productions in the center’s Eisenhower Theater. The capital has a lively and varied theater scene, which includes previews of many Broadway productions, as well as performances by local repertory companies. The Arena State, the area’s oldest theater ensemble, gives eight subscription performances a year on two stages. In addition to performing classic dramas, the troupe is committed to the advancement of multicultural and contemporary theater. The Shakespeare Theatre, which formerly performed at the Folger Shakespeare Library, performs Shakespeare and modern theater classics and offers free summer productions at the Carter Barron Amphitheatre in Rock Creek Park. The Source Theatre Company performs both standard and new plays, with a special focus on new plays. Two more groups that specialize in contemporary
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Martin Luther King, Jr., delivered his “I Have a Dream” speech from the steps of the Lincoln Memorial on June 23, 1963. (Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp)
theater are the Studio Theatre and the Woolly Mammoth Theatre Company. After being closed for more than a century, Ford’s Theatre—where President Abraham Lincoln was assassinated in 1865—was reopened in 1868, refurbished in a style intended to duplicate its original nineteenth-century furnishings, down to the presidential box in which the president was shot. Original productions are presented most of the year, and there is a performance of A Christmas Carol by Charles Dickens at Christmas time.
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Washington, D.C.
Visitors relax outside the National Gallery of Art’s distinctive East Wing, designed by I.M. Pei with financial support from Paul Mellon. The East Wing opened in 1978. (Catherine Karnow; Woodfin Camp)
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Libraries and Museums
Founded in 1896, the District of Columbia Public Library System serves 543,000 people, with an annual circulation of 1,476,935. Its book holdings total approximately 2,863,296 volumes. The library system also operates 25 neighborhood branches. The areas in which it holds special collections include Illustrators of Early English and American Children’s Books, Local History and Local Authors, and the Washington Star Newspaper Collection.
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The Library of Congress, which celebrated the bicentennial of its founding in 2000, is the world’s largest library, with approximately 17 million books, 12 million photographs, two million recordings, and a multitude of other items housed on some 853 kilometers (530 miles) of shelves. Early in its history, the museum purchased the contents of Thomas Jefferson’s personal library; much of this great treasure was lost, however, in 1851, when two-thirds of the collection was destroyed by fire (the museum’s second major fire; most of its original holdings had been incinerated in an 1814 conflagration). Today
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Washington, D.C. the library owns books and periodicals published in some 460 different languages. Included within its collections are the world’s largest law library; the largest rare book collection in North America; the papers of 23 presidents; the largest comic book collection in existence; the world’s largest collection of American music; and the world’s most extensive collection of films and television broadcasts produced both in the United States and abroad. The Folger Shakespeare Library, a privately funded institution established in 1932, is home to the world’s largest collection of the printed works of English playwright-poet William Shakespeare (1564–1616). Its 280,000 books and manuscripts also include thousands of other Renaissance books and manuscripts, and the library functions as a major academic research center for scholars and graduate students throughout the world. Every year the museum is opened to the public in April when Shakespeare’s birthday is commemorated. The Folger also serves as a performing arts venue, with concerts and plays presented in its Great Hall and Elizabethan Theatre. The Smithsonian Institution, established by the federal government in 1846, operates 14 museums in the nation’s capital, nine of them located on the Mall, including the National Air and Space Museum; the Joseph H. Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden, which is dedicated to modern and contemporary art; the Arthur M. Sackler Gallery, a museum of Asian art; and the National Museum of African Art.
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Among the museums located off the Mall are the National Portrait Gallery, which features portraits of persons who have made significant contributions to the country; the Renwick Gallery, which displays American crafts; the Anacostia Neighborhood Museum; and the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum, a memorial to the millions of Jews and non-Jews killed by the Nazis during World War II, and an international center for study and documentation of the Holocaust. The privately operated Corcoran Gallery of Art, Washington’s oldest art museum, features American paintings but also includes European artworks dating as far back as the Middle Ages. Other private museums in the capital include the National Museum of Women in the Arts, the National Building Museum, and the Textile Museum. 19
To u r i s m
Washington, D.C., is one of the nation’s most popular tourist destinations, attracting nearly 20 million visitors annually. The busiest tourist season runs from April (when the cherry blossoms bloom) to September, and April is the single most popular month to visit the capital. In 1995 approximately 1,589,000 foreign travelers visited the city, ranking it eighth nationally in this category. 20
Holidays and Festivals
JANUARY Martin Luther King, Jr., birthday observance
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Washington, D.C.
The White House, home to every U.S. president since the second president John Adams, hosts public tours and events throughout the year. (Timothy Eagan, Woodfin Camp)
FEBRUARY
APRIL
Chinese New Year Parade Washington Boat Show Washington International Flower & Garden Show
Dulles International Antiques Show & Sale National Cherry Blossom Parade Smithsonian’s Craft Show White House Easter Egg Roll White House Spring Garden Tours
MARCH
APRIL-MAY
FEBRUARY-MARCH
D.C. Spring Antiques Fair Harambee Carnival Patuxent Wildlife Art Show & Sale Smithsonian Kite Festival St. Patrick’s Day Parade Washington Flower & Garden Show
MARCH-APRIL National Cherry Blossom Festival Spring Flower Show
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Washington International Filmfest
MAY Candlelight Vigil Goodwill Embassy Tour International Gem & Jewelry Show Memorial Day Ceremonies at Arlington National Cemetery Washington National Cathedral Flower Mart
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Washington, D.C. JUNE-JULY Festival of American Folklife
JUNE-AUGUST Jazz Art Festival
JULY Founder’s Day Water Lily Festival Independence Day Parade
JULY-AUGUST Washington Theatre Festival
SEPTEMBER Adams-Morgan Day
OCTOBER Marine Corps Marathon Taste of D.C.
DECEMBER D.C. Winter Antiques Fair National Christmas Tree Lighting/Pageant of Peace Washington Craft Show White House Christmas Tours
DECEMBER-JANUARY Capital Area Auto Show Christmas on “S” Street Victorian Holiday Festival in Historic Georgetown
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Famous Citizens
Humor columnist Art Buchwald (b. 1925). Escaped slave and abolitionist Frederick Douglass (1818–1895). Jazz legend Edward “Duke” Ellington (1899–1974). Newspaper publisher Katharine Graham (b. 1917). Actress Helen Hayes (1900–93). French-born architect Pierre Charles L’Enfant (1754–1825), who designed the plan for the nation’s capital.
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First Lady Dolley Madison (1769–1849). Socialite Perle Mesta (1891–1975). Englishman James Smithson (1765– 1829), who donated the funds for the founding of the Smithsonian Institution. Composer John Philip Sousa (1854– 1932). Poet Walt Whitman (1819–1892). 22
For Further Study
Websites District of Columbia. [Online] Available http:// www.dc.thelinks.com/ (accessed October 14, 1999). Washington DC City Pages. [Online] Available http://www.dcpages.com/ (accessed October 14, 1999). Washington DC Home Page. [Online] Available http://www.ci.washington.dc.us (accessed October 14, 1999). Washington Web. [Online] Available http:// wwwwashweb.net/(accessed October 14, 1999).
Government Offices Mayor’s Office 441 4th St. NW Washington, D.C. 20001 (202) 727-2980 Washington City Council 441 4th St. NW Washington, D.C. 20001 (202) 724-8000 Washington Economic Development Dept. 441 4th St. NW, Rm. 1140 N Washington, D.C. 20001 (202) 727-6365
Tourist and Convention Bureaus Washington Convention Center 900 9th St. NW Washington, D.C. 20001 (202) 789-1600
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Washington, D.C. Washington D.C. Convention & Visitors Association 1212 New York Ave. NW, Suite 600 Washington, D.C. 20005 (202) 789-7000
Publications Washington Post 1150 15th St. NW Washington, D.C. 20071 Washington Times 3600 New York Ave. NE Washington, D.C. 20002
Books Abbott, Carl. Political Terrain: Washington, D.C., from Tidewater Town to Global Metropolis. Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 1999. Alsop, Stewart. The Center: People and Power in Political Washington. New York: Harper & Row, 1968. Bernstein, Carl, and Bob Woodward. All the President’s Men. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1974. Brinkley, David. Washington Goes to War. New York: A.A. Knopf, 1988. Butler, J. George. Simpler Times: Stories of Early
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Twentieth Century City Life. Arlington, VA: Vandamere Press, 1997. Caroli, Betty Boyd. Inside the White House: America’s Most Famous Home. Pleasantville, NY: Reader’s Digest Association, Inc., 1999. Cary, Francine Curro, ed. Urban Odyssey: A Multicultural History of Washington, DC. Washington: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1996. Cutler, David. Literary Washington: A Complete Guide to the Literary Life in the Nation’s Capital. Lanham, MD: Madison Books, 1992. Evelyn, Douglas E., and Paul A. Dickson. On This Spot:Pinpointing the Past in Washington, D.C. Washington, DC: Farragut Pub. Co, 1992. Fitzpatrick, Sandra, and Maria R. Goodwin. The Guide to Black Washington: Places and Events of Historical and Cultural Significance in the Nation’s Capital. New York: Hippocrene Books, 1999. Graham, Katharine. Personal History. New York: Knopf, 1997. Lewis, Roger K. Shaping the City. Washington, DC: AIA Press, 1987. Seidenberg, Robert. Discover the Sidewalks of Washington, D.C. Photography by Kevin Vandiver and Joe Viesti. New York: Gallery Books, 1989. Styron, William. The Confessions of Nat Turner. New York: Random House, 1967.
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Glossary ABOLITIONIST: Person or organization that opposes slavery. When slavery was legal, abolitionists fought to have laws created to make keeping slaves illegal. ADMINISTRATION: Government officials and the policies by which they govern. AIR POLLUTION: Harmful chemicals discharged into the air, making it unclean and sometimes unsafe. ALLIES: Groups or persons who are united in a common purpose. Typically used to describe nations that have joined together to fight a common enemy in war. In World War I, the term Allies described the nations that fought against Germany and its allies. In World War II, Allies described the United Kingdom, United States, the USSR and their allies, who fought against the Axis Powers of Germany, Italy, and Japan. AMALGAM: A mixture of different things. ANCHORAGE: Settling or staying in place by means of holding on to something. ANNEXATION: The act of adding on a smaller thing to a larger thing. ANNUAL MEAN TEMPERATURE: The temperature that falls at the middle of the range of high and low temperatures for the entire year. ANTI-SEMITISM: Fear or hatred of Jews. APARTHEID: The past governmental policy in the Republic of South Africa of separating the races in society. ARCHAEOLOGICAL REMAINS: Relics and artifacts left by past cultures. BOROUGH: District or large section of a city, especially New York, New York. BUDDHISM: A religious system common in India and eastern Asia. Founded by and based upon the teachings of Siddhartha Gautama, Buddhism asserts that suffering is an inescapable part of life. Deliverance can only be achieved through the practice of charity, temperance, justice, honesty, and truth. CABARET: A restaurant or nightclub with short musical performances with singing and dancing as entertainment. CADENCE: Any rhythmic flow of sound or measured movement to a rhythm or beat. CANTON: A territory or small division or state within a country. COMMUNISM: A form of government whose system requires common ownership of property for the use of all citizens. All profits are to be equally dis-
tributed and prices on goods and services are usually set by the state. Also, communism refers directly to the official doctrine of the former U.S.S.R. COSMOPOLITAN: Containing elements of all or many parts of the world. COUT D’ÉTAT OR COUP: A sudden, violent overthrow of a government or its leader. CULTURE: The ideas and typical habits of a group of people. DAILY CIRCULATION: Number of newspapers or other publications that are distributed each day. DIALECT: One of a number of regional or related modes of speech regarded as descending from a common origin. DIVERSITY: Variety; a mixture of different or dissimilar elements, items, or people. ENDEMIC: Anything that is peculiar to and characteristic of a locality or region. ENTREPRENEUR: Someone who starts and operates a small business. ETHNIC: Referring to a group of people with the same cultural heritage. FEDERAL: Pertaining to a union of states whose governments are subordinate to a central government. FEZ: A cone-shaped felt hat with no brim and a flat top, from which a long tassel hangs; the national headdress for men in Turkey. FUNICULAR: Hanging from or worked by pulling up and lowering of ropes or cables. GLOBAL ECONOMY: Relating to the economic situation (management of wealth and resources) of the whole world as a single community. GOLD RUSH: Describes people traveling in a hurry to a place where gold was discovered. GREENWICH MEAN TIME (GMT): Mean solar time of the meridian at Greenwich, England, used as the basis for standard time throughout most of the world. The world is divided into 24 time zones, and all are related to the prime, or Greenwich mean, zone. GROSS DOMESTIC PRODUCT (GDP): A measure of the market value of all goods and services produced within the boundaries of a nation, regardless of asset ownership. Unlike gross national product, GDP excludes receipts from that nation’s business operations in foreign countries. GROSS NATIONAL PRODUCT (GNP): A measure of the market value of goods and services produced by the labor and property of a nation. Includes receipts from that nation’s business operation in foreign countries
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GLOSSARY HERESY: An opinion believed to contradict a basic
NATIONALIST: Person or government policy that
law of a religion. INDIGENOUS: People, plants, and animals that lived in a place from ancient times. Also called native people, plants, and animals. INHABITED: Lived in. INQUISITION: A general tribunal, or court, established in the thirteenth century for the discovery and suppression of heresy and the punishment of those who were guilty of heresy (called heretics). ISLAM: The religious system of Mohammed, practiced by Muslims and based on a belief in Allah as the supreme being and Muhammad as his prophet. The spelling variations, Moslim and Mohammed, are also used. Islam also refers to those nations in which it is the primary religion. LABYRINTHINE: Curving in an intricate or confusing pattern; curvy, like a snake. MAGNATE: Important person, or person with special influence. MELANESIAN: The native or original inhabitants of islands in the Pacific Ocean south of the equator, including the Fiji Islands. METRO: Short form of metropolitan, usually used with a city name. For example, metro Detroit describes the city of Detroit and its surrounding area. METROPOLIS: Large city or center of population. METROPOLITAN: Term used to describe a city and its area of influence. For example, “metropolitan Detroit” refers to the city of Detroit and its surrounding area.
puts the needs and interests of the country first over the needs and interests of the other countries or international groups. PER CAPITA: Literally, per person; for each person counted. PHILANTHROPIST: Person who gives large sums of his or her own money to benefit community organizations or institutions. POLYNESIAN: The native or original inhabitants of islands in the Pacific Ocean, including Hawaii, Samoa, Tonga, Tahiti, and New Zealand. PRE-COLUMBIAN: Refers to the time in the history of North and South America before the arrival of Europeans (before 1492). Named for the first European to reach the Western hemisphere, Christopher Columbus. PROGRESSIVE: Person or government that is open to new ideas and willing to move forward or change habits or practices. PROTESTANT: A member or an adherent of one of those Christian bodies which descended from the Reformation of the sixteenth century. Originally applied to those who opposed or protested the Roman Catholic Church. ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH: The designation of the church of which the pope or Bishop of Rome is the head, and that holds him as the successor of St. Peter and heir of his spiritual authority, privileges, and gifts. RURAL: Describes landscape of the countryside, with large areas of open space and few roads and buildings covering the land. SOUTHEAST ASIA: The region in Asia that consists of Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, the Philippines, Thailand, and Vietnam. SUBURB: Community on the edge of a large city where people live. People who live in a suburb usually travel to the city to work. SULTAN: A king of a Muslim (Islamic) state. TREATY: A negotiated agreement between two governments. URBAN: City landscape, with streets and buildings covering most of the area. VISIONARY: Person who can imagine positive changes and can explain the possible results to others. XENOPHOBIA: Fear or intense dislike of people from other places. ZENITH: The high point.
METROPOLITAN STATISTICAL AREA (MSA): Official term used by government agencies to define the city and its surrounding communities. The MSA describes the area included when gathering and reporting statistics. MILITARY COUP: A sudden, violent overthrow of a government by military forces. MILLENNIUM: 1,000 years. Also used to refer to the one-thousandth anniversary of an event. MISSIONARIES: People who travel to, and often live in, another area for the purpose of teaching the inhabitants there their religious beliefs. MOBILITY: The freedom and ability to move from one area or region to another. MOSQUE: An Islam place of worship and the organization with which it is connected. MUSLIM: Name used to describe people who observe the religious rules of Islam.
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Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Index This index contains terms from all four volumes of Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities. The number of the volume is enclosed in brackets. The volume number is followed by the page number. For example, the reference [3]80 means that the indexed term can be found in volume three on page 80.
A Aaron, Henry Louis “Hank” [1]14 Aberdeen Harbor, Hong Kong (photo) [2]26 Aborigines (Sydney, Australia) [4]121 Accursius, Francisco Accorso [4]83 Adams, Ansel [4]99 Adams, Brian [4]184 Adams, John [4]193 Adamson, Joy [3]132 Addams, Jane [1]148, [1]159 Adebola, Alhaji H. P. [2]154 Adelphia Coliseum [3]148 Adriano, Numeriano [3]15 Adulyadej, Bhumibol [1]31 Aelia Capitolina [2]112 Aemilius Lepidus [4]71 Aeroparque Jorge Newbery [1]100 Africa Cairo, Egypt [1]115–[1]130 Johannesburg, South Africa [2]123–[2]138 Lagos, Nigeria [2]139–[2]154 Monrovia, Liberia [3]69–[3]82 Nairobi, Kenya [3]115–[3]135 African Heritage Center [3]127 Africana Museum (Monrovia, Liberia) [3]80 Africa’s Manhattan see Johannesburg, South Africa Agnon, S. Y. [2]121 Al-Ahram Weekly [1]125 al-Aqqad, Abbas [1]129 Ala Wai Canal [2]43 Al-Azhar University (photo) [1]124 Albert II [1]95 Alcott, Louisa May [1]71 Alexandria, Egypt [1]115, [1]116 Alfonso VI of Castile and León [2]211 Alfred of Wessex, King [2]176 al-Fustat see Cairo, Egypt
Algonquin Indians [3]89 Allen, Augustus C. [2]64 Allen, John K. [2]64 Allen, Tim [1]205 Allen, Woody [3]192 Allenby, Edmund [2]113 Allman, Greg [3]152 al-Mansuriyah see Cairo Alouettes, Montreal [3]95 al-Qahirah see Cairo Al-Quds University [2]116 Ambassador Bridge [2]4, [2]8 American Civil War see Civil War, U.S. Amichai, Yehuda [2]121 Amr ibn al-’As [1]118 Anaheim Angels [2]199 Anders, William Alison [2]36 Anderson, Marian [4]16 Andes Mountains [1]136 (photo), [1]138 Anglo-Boer War [2]128 Anikulapo-Kuti, Felá [2]154 Antoine Joseph Sax [1]95 Appelfeld, Aharon [2]121 Aquino, Benigno [3]8 Arabian Sea [3]99 Araneta Coliseum (Manila, Philippines) [3]12 Arc de Triomphe (Paris, France) [3]200 Argentina, Buenos Aires [1]97–[1]114 Arizona Diamondbacks [4]28 Arizona Doll and Toy Museum [4]31 Arizona Hall of Fame [4]31 Arizona Mining and Mineral Museum [4]31 Arizona, Phoenix [4]19–[4]34 Armstrong, Louis [3]170 Arnold Arboretum [1]75, [1]77 Arsenal of Democracy see Detroit, Michigan Art Institute of Chicago [1]155, [1]157
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Index Asakusa Shrine Festival (photo) [4]147 Ashmun, Jehudi [3]73, [3]81 Asia Bangkok, Thailand [1]17–[1]32 Beijing, People’s Republic of China [1]33–[1]48 Hong Kong, China [2]21–[2]38 Istanbul, Turkey [2]93–[2]106 Jerusalem, Israel [2]107–[2]122 Manila, Philippines [3]1–[3]17 Mumbai, India [3]99–[3]114 Sydney, Australia [4]117–[4]132 Tokyo, Japan [4]133–[4]150 Asia-Pacific Economic Conference (APEC) [4]170 Assassinations Aquino, Benigno [3]8 Dallas, Texas [1]188 Kennedy, John F. [1]183 Kennedy, Robert F. [2]195 Lincoln, Abraham [4]193, [4]199 Mboya, Tom [3]134 Astrodome (photo) [2]72 Atahualpa [2]161 Ataturk International Airport [2]95 Athens of the South see Nashville, Tennessee Atlanta, Georgia [1]1–[1]16 Atlanta Braves [1]8, [1]11 Atlanta Falcons [1]11 Atlanta Hawks [1]11 Atlanta Thrashers [1]11 Atlantic Ocean [1]49, [1]65, [1]97, [3]173 Atwater-Kent Museum [4]14 Audubon Living Science Museum [3]169 Audubon Park and Zoo [3]157 Auguste, Philippe [3]209 Augustus Caesar [4]83 Aungier, Gerald [3]105 Australia, Sydney [4]117–[4]132 Austria [1]55 Automotive industry (Detroit, Michigan) [2]12 Auto racing Atlanta, Georgia [1]11 Johannesburg, South Africa [2]134 Miami, Florida [3]48 Paris, France [3]206 Phoenix, Arizona [4]28 Rome, Italy [4]79 San Francisco, California [4]96 Santa Fe Speedway (Chicago, Illinois) [1]155 Vancouver, British Columbia [4]181
208
Autry Museum of Western Heritage [2]200 Ayasofya (Saint Sophia) Museum [2]97, [2]104 Ayutthaya see Bangkok, Thailand Ayyubid dynasty [1]119 Azikwe, Nnamdi [2]154 Aztec Empire (photo) [3]26
B Babelsberg Palace [1]60 Babylonians [2]112 Bacchhan, Amitabh [3]113 Back Bay [1]65, [1]66, [1]71, [1]74, [1]75, [1]77, [1]78 Bacon, Francis [2]186 Bahadur Shah [3]105 Balanchine, George [3]189 Baltic Sea [1]49 Baltimore Orioles [4]198 Baltimore-Washington International Airport [4]188 BAND—Black Arts National Diaspora, Inc. [3]169 Bangkok, Thailand [1]17–[1]32 Bannister, Roger [4]180 Bardot, Brigitte [3]211 Barenboim, Daniel [1]60 Bargash, Seyyid [3]121 Barney, Lem [2]16 Barrow, Clyde [1]190 Barrow, Joseph Louis see Louis, Joe Barry, Dave [3]51 Barry, Marion Jr. [4]195 Baryshnikov, Mikhail [3]189 Basa, Jose Maria [3]15 Baseball [2]182 Anaheim Angels [2]199 Arizona Diamondbacks [4]28 Atlanta Braves [1]8, [1]11 Baltimore Orioles [4]198 Caracas [1]141 Cobb, Ty [2]8 Colorado Rockies [1]200 Denver, Colorado [1]197 Detroit Tigers [2]8 Florida Marlins [3]47 Houston Astros [2]60 Indianapolis Indians [2]86 Indians [1]171 Los Angeles Dodgers [2]199 Minnesota Twins [3]63 Montreal Expose [3]95 Nashville Sounds [3]148
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Index New Orleans Zephyrs [3]167 New York Mets [3]187 New York Yankees [3]187 Nippon Ham Fighters [4]144 Oakland Athletics (“Oakland A’s”) [4]96 Philadelphia Phillies [4]12 San Francisco Giants [4]96 Seattle Mariners [4]111 Texas Rangers [1]185, [1]187 Tokyo Giants [4]144 Tokyo, Japan [4]144 Basketball [2]16, [2]182 Atlanta Hawks [1]11 Chicago Bulls [1]155 Cleveland Cavaliers [1]171 Cleveland Rockers [1]171 Dallas Mavericks [1]187 Denver Nuggets [1]201 Detroit Pistons [2]16 Detroit Shock [2]16 Golden State Warriors [4]96 Houston Rockets [2]71 Indiana Pacers [2]86 Jerusalem [2]118 Los Angeles Clippers [2]199 Los Angeles Lakers [2]199 Manila Metrostars [3]12 Miami Heat [3]47 Minneapolis Timberwolves [3]64 New York Jets [3]187 New York Knicks [3]187 Philadelphia 76ers [4]12 Philippine Basketball Association [3]12 Phoenix Suns [4]28 Seattle Super Sonics [4]111 Vancouver Grizzlies [4]181 Bastille, Place de la [3]207 Bay Area see San Francisco, California Bayou City see Houston, Texas Bayside Exposition Center [1]79 Beacon Hill [1]66, [1]70 Bear Creek Lake State Park (Denver, Colorado) [1]202 Becket, Thomas à [2]186 Beecher, Henry Ward [3]192 Beijing, People’s Republic of China [1]33–[1]48 Belgian Comic Strip Centre [1]94 Belgium, Brussels [1]83–[1]96 Belle Isle [2]16 Bellezza, Dario [4]83
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Bellow, Saul [1]159 Benes, Eduard [4]47 Ben-Gurion, David [2]121 Ben Gurion International Airport [2]108 Benin Empire [2]145 Benito Juárez International Airport [3]20 Benjamin Franklin National Memorial [4]16 Benny, Jack [1]159 Bensusan Museum of Photography [2]136 Berkeley, Busby [2]203 Berlanga, Rosario Robles [3]28 Berlin-Brandenburg International Airport [1]50 Berlin, Germany, Europe [1]49–[1]63 Berlin Wall [1]49, [1]53, [1]63 (photo) Bernini, Gian Lorenzo [4]79 Beverly Hills, California [2]193 Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design [2]116 Bhabha, H. J. [3]112 Bhumibol (King) [1]24 Bible Lands Museum [2]119 Bicentennial Capitol Mall State Park [3]140, [3]148 Bicycling, Tour de France [3]206 Bierce, Ambrose [4]99 Big Tex (photo) [1]189 Bilac, Olavo [4]61 Bing, Dave [2]16 Biosphere (Montréal, Québec) [3]95, [3]96 Bird, Larry [1]80 Bishop Museum and Planetarium [2]52 Bizet, Georges [3]211 Black, Charles H. [2]83 Black American West Museum and Heritage Center [1]203 Black Heritage Trail [1]79 Blackmun, Harry [3]67 Black Sea [2]93, [2]98 Blaisdell, Neal S. Center [2]52 Blake, William [2]186 Blixen, Karen [3]132, [3]134 Blixen-Finecke, Baroness Karen see Blixen, Karen Blue Ridge Mountains [4]187 Blues Capital of the World see Chicago, Illinois Bly, Robert [3]67 Boeing, William [4]107, [4]115 Boer republic [2]128 Boer War [2]136 Bohai Sea [1]33 Bolívar, Simón [1]131, [1]137, [1]143, [1]144, [2]162 Bolivia [1]100
209
Index Bombay Harbor [3]104, [3]111 Bombay, India see Mumbai, India Bonaparte, Joseph [2]211 Bonaparte, Napoleon [1]105, [1]120, [2]162, [2]211, [3]199, [3]202, [3]210, [4]55, [4]72 Bond, Dr. Thomas [4]11 Bond, Ward [1]205 Bong Mining Company [3]79 Bonifacio, Andres [3]7, [3]8, [3]16 Bonn, Germany [1]56 Bonnie and Clyde see Barrow, Clyde and Parker, Bonnie Boomalli Aboriginal Artists Co-operative [4]131 Borges, Jorge Luis [1]113 Borivoj, Prince [4]39 Boroughs see New York, New York Bosporus [2]93, [2]99 (photo) Boston Marathon [1]77 Boston, Massachusetts [1]65–[1]82 Boswell, James [2]186 Botanical Gardens (Rio de Janeiro) [4]61 Botany Bay (Sydney, Australia) [4]118 Botta, Mario [4]98 Bourassa, Henri [3]98 Boxer Rebellion [1]39 Boxing [2]5, [2]8, [2]16 Boyd, Arthur [4]131 Brandeis, Louis D. [1]80 Brandenburg Gate [1]49, [1]50, [1]52, [1]57 (photo), [1]61 Brazil, Rio de Janeiro [4]49–[4]62 Brazos Bend State Park, Houston [2]64 Breach Candy Club (Mumbai, India) [3]110 Brecht, Bertolt [1]55 Brickell, William [3]42 British Columbia Lions [4]181 British Columbia, Vanouver [4]169–[4]185 British East Africa Company [3]121 British East India Company [3]105 Bronx Zoo [3]188 Brooklyn see New York City Brooklyn Botanic Garden [3]188 Brooklyn Bridge [3]181 Brooklyn Historical Society [3]190 Brooklyn Museum [3]190 Brown, Captain William [2]45 Brown, Molly House and Museum [1]203 Brown, Paul [1]175 Brown Bomber see Louis, Joe Browning, Elizabeth Barrett [2]186
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Browning, Robert [2]186 Brubeck, Dave [4]97 Brugge, Belgium [1]84 Brunelleschi, Filippo [4]83 Brush, Charles [1]175 Brussels, Belgium [1]83–[1]96 Bruxelles see Brussels, Belgium Bryan, John Neely [1]177, [1]181 Bryant, William Cullen [3]192 Buchanon, Edna [3]51 Buchwald, Art [4]203 Buckingham Palace [2]175, [2]182 Buddhism [1]21 Buddhist Mauryan Empire [3]104 Buenos Aires, Argentina [1]97–[1]114 Buffalo Bill’s Grave and Museum [1]203 Bulfinch, Charles [1]80 Bullfighting [2]211, [2]215 Bunche, Ralph J. [2]19 Bundestag [1]61, [1]62 Bunker Hill Monument [1]79 Buonarroti, Michelangelo [4]72, [4]81, [4]83, Burger, Warren [3]67 Burggraf of Nuremberg [1]54 Burr, Aaron [3]192 Byzantine Empire [2]93, [2]94, [2]98 Byzantium see Instanbul
C Cable, George Washington [3]170 Cabral, Pedro Alvarez [4]54 Cadillac, Antoine de la Mothe [2]1 Caen, Herb [4]99 Caesar, Augustus [4]83 Caesar, Julius [3]201, [4]71, [4]83 Caesar, Octavian [4]71 Cairo, Egypt [1]115–[1]130 Cajuns, New Orleans, Louisiana [3]159, [3]162 Calderón de la Barca y Henao, Pedro [2]217 California Los Angeles [2]189–[2]204 San Francisco [4]85–[4]100 California Gold Rush [4]90 Campbell, Kim [4]184 Camus, Albert [3]211 Canada Montréal, Québec [3]83–[3]98 Toronto, Ontario [4]151–[4]167 Vancouver, British Columbia [4]169–[4]185
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Index Canadian Football League (CFL) [3]95, [4]181 Canadian National Railway [3]89 Candlestick Park see 3Com Park Cao Zhan [1]47 Capek, Karel [4]47 “Capital of Europe” see Brussels Capital Hospital [1]43 “Capital of Latin America” see Miami, Florida Capitol Hill [4]191 Capitoline Museum [4]80 Capone, Al [1]151 Capote, Truman [3]170 Caracas, Venezuela, South America [1]131–[1]144 Cárdenas, Cuauhtémoc [3]28, [3]29 Cardoso, Fernando Henrique [4]57 Carey, Peter [4]131 Cariocas (citizens of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil) [4]50 Carnegie, Andrew [3]192 Carnegie Hall [3]177 Carr, Emily [4]183 Cartier, Jacques [3]83, [3]89 Caruso, Enrico [4]83 Casa Manila Museum [3]14 Casa Rosada [1]103 Cascade Mountains [4]102 Casino gambling [2]12, [3]95 Cassatt, Mary [4]16 Castro, Fidel [3]37 Cathedral of Mexico [3]22 Catherine of Branganza [3]105 Cavanaugh, Jerome P. [2]5, [2]6, [2]8 Central Ballet of China [1]46 Central Highlands, Africa [3]115 Central Park (New York) [3]184, [3]187 (photo) Cervantes Saavedra, Miguel de [2]217 Chalmette Plantation [3]162 Chamberlain, Wilt [4]17 Champollion, Jean-François [3]211 Channing, William Ellery [1]80 Chao Phraya River [1]17, [1]18, [1] 22 (photo), [1]23, [1]29 Chaplin, Charlie [2]187 Chapultepec Castle and Park [3]33, [3]34 Charlemagne [3]201 Charles II [3]105, [4]6 Charles III, King [2]211 Charles IV [4]40 Charles V [1]88 Charles of France [1]87
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Charles River [1]66, [1]70 (photo), [1]74, [1]75, [1]78 Charlestown [1]66, [1]70, [1]71 Charoenpura, Mai [1]31 Chattahoochee River [1]12 Chatuchak Park [1]26 Chaucer, Geoffrey [2]186 Cheekwood Museum of Art [3]150 Chene Park [2]16 Cherokee Indians [1]5, [3]142 Chesapeake Bay [4]187, [4]196 Chevalier, Maurice [3]211 Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj International Airport [3]100 Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus [3]100 Chiang Kaishek [1]39 Chicago, Illinois [1]145–[1]160 Chicago Academy of Sciences [1]158 Chicago Blues Festival [1]157 Chicago Board of Trade [1]152 Chicago Children’s Museum [1]158 Chicago Historical Society [1]158 Chicago Mercantile Exchange [1]152 Chicago Opera Theater [1]157 Chicago Public Library [1]157 Chicago River [1]147, [1]152 Chicago White Sox [1]156 Chickasaw Indians [3]142 Chile [1]100 China, People’s Republic of Beijing [1]33–[1]48 Hong Kong [2]21–[2]38 Ching-shan Park [1]44 Chor Bazaar (Mumbai, India) [3]108 Chowpatty Beach (Mumbai, India) [3]110, [3]112 Christ the Redeemer statue [4]52, [4]61 Chung-shan Park [1]44 Churchill, Winston [2]187 Church of the Sepulchre [2]110 Cidade Maravilhosa see Rio de Janeiro, Brazil Cinquantenaire Museum of Classical Art and History [1]93 Citadel Museum of the History of Jerusalem [2]119 City of Big Shoulders see Chicago, Illinois City of Gold see Johannesburg, South Africa City of a Hundred Spires see Prague, Czech Republic City of Lakes see Minneapolis, Minnesota City Museum (Istanbul, Turkey) [2]105 City Park (Denver, Colorado) [1]202
211
Index City Stadium (Nairobi, Kenya) [3]129 City in the Sun see Nairobi, Kenya Civic Center Park (Denver, Colorado) [1]195 Civil rights movement Atlanta, Georgia [1]7 Cleveland, Ohio [1]168 Civil war, Liberia [3]76, [3]80 Civil War Library and Museum [4]14 Civil War, U.S. [1]69, [1]71 Atlanta, Georgia [1]6 Dallas, Texas [1]177, [1]180, [1]181 Denver, Colorado [1]197 Indianapolis, Indiana [2]82 Miami, Florida [3]42 Nashville, Tennessee [3]143, [3]151 New Orleans, Louisiana [3]162, [3]163 New York, New York [3]181 Philadelphia, Pennsylvania [4]8 Washington, D.C. [4]193 Clark, John Pepper [2]153 Cleaveland, Moses [1]166 Cleveland, Grover [2]46 Cleveland, Ohio [1]161–[1]176 Cleveland Center for Contemporary Art [1]174 Cleveland Metroparks Zoo [1]172 Cleveland Museum of Art [1]174 Cleveland Museum of Natural History [1]174 Clinton, Hillary Rodham [1]159 Cobain, Kurt [4]115 Cobb, Ty [2]8 Cobo, Albert [2]6 Cockfighting [3]12 Codman Square [1]70 Coen, Ethan [3]67 Coen, Joel [3]67 Cohan, George M. [3]192 Cold War [1]49 Collins, Judy [4]115 Cologne [1]84 Colonia [1]100 Colón Theater Opera House (photo) [1]112 Colorado Avalanche [1]201 Colorado Ballet [1]202 Colorado, Denver [1]191–[1]206 Colorado History Museum [1]203 Colorado Rockies [1]195 Comenius, John Amos [4]47 Comerica Park [2]16 Comiskey Park (Chicago, Illinois) [1]156
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Comnena, Anna [2]105 Confederacy Atlanta, Georgia [1]6 Nashville, Tennessee [3]143 New Orleans, Louisiana [3]163 Confederate Museum [3]169 Confucius [2]35 Connally, John [1]183 Connecticut [1]66 Connick, Jr., Harry [3]170 Constantine [4]71 Constantine I [2]98, [2]102 Constantine the Great [2]94, [2]104, [2]105 Constantinople see also Instanbul Continental Divide [1]191 Coogan, Jackie [2]203 Cook, Captain James [2]45 Cook, William D. [1]181 Cooney, Joan Ganz [4]33 Cooper, Jackie [2]203 Coors Field [1]195, [1]197, [1]200 Copacabana Beach [4]50 Copley, John Singleton [1]80 Coppola, Francis Ford [2]19 Cortés, Hernán [3]26 Cotton Bowl [1]187 Country Music Hall of Fame [3]141, [3]145, [3]150 “Cradle of the American Revolution” see Boston, Massachusetts Crane, Hart [1]175 Crawford Auto-Aviation Museum (Cleveland, Ohio) [1]174 Crawford Market (Mumbai, India) [3]102, [3]108 Creek Indians [1]5 Creek War [3]143 Creoles (New Orleans, Louisiana) [3]159, [3]162, [3]166 Crescent City see New Orleans, Louisiana Cricket [2]182, [3]130 Johannesburg, South Africa [2]134 Miami, Florida [3]48 Mumbai, India [3]110 Sydney, Australia [4]127 Crime Atlanta, Georgia [1]8 Los Angeles, California [2]196 Mexico City [3]29 Montréal, Québec [3]91 Nairobi, Kenya [3]125 Nashville, Tennessee [3]144
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Index New Orleans, Louisiana [3]163 New York, New York [3]182 Philadelphia, Pennsylvania [4]9 San Francisco, California [4]92 Seattle, Washington [4]108 Vancouver, British Columbia [4]177 Cromwell, Oliver [2]186 Cruise Capital of the World [3]40 Crusades [2]99 Cuauhtémoc [3]26 Cuffe Parade [3]104, [3]108 Cumberland River [3]137, [3]138, [3]145 Cumberland Science Museum [3]151 Cunningham, Merce [3]189 Cuomo, Mario [3]192 Cuyahoga River [1]161, [1]162, [1]164, [1]170 Czech Republic, Prague [1]55, [4]35–[4]48 Czechoslovakia see Czech Republic
D Dadu [1]38 Daley, Richard J. [1]151, [1]159 Daley, Richard M. [1]151 Dallas, George Mifflin [1]181 Dallas-Fort Worth Airport [1]178, [1]183 Dallas, Texas [1]177–[1]190 Dallas Aquarium [1]188 Dallas Area Rapid Transit System (DART) [1]180 Dallas Burn (soccer) [1]187 Dallas Historical Society [1]188 Dallas Museum of Art [1]188 Dallas Symphony Orchestra [1]188 Dallas Zoo [1]188 Damascus Gate [2]108 Damonen Saduak (photo) [1]27 Dana Farber Cancer Institute [1]76 Dante [4]83 Dante B. Fascell Port [3]38 David, King [2]112 David Sassoon Library (Mumbai, India) [3]111 Davies, Robertson [4]166 Dead Sea [2]115 de Almagro, Diego [2]161 de Almeida, Francisco [3]105 Dealy, G. B. Library [1]188 de Assis, Joaquim Maria Machado [4]62 de Beauvoir, Simone [3]211 de Bienville, Jean Baptiste le Moyne [3]161 de Cervantes Saavedra, Miguel [2]218
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Declaration of Independence [4]1, [4]7 de Cuellar, Javier Pérez [2]167 de Garay, Juan [1]105 de Gaulle, Charles [3]203, [3]211 Deighton, John [4]176, [4]183 de la Rúa, Fernando [1]107 de León, Juan Francisco [1]136 de Lima Barreto, Afonso Henriques [4]62 de Losada, Diego [1]131, [1]135 de Mello, Fernando Affonso Collor [4]61 de Mendoza, Pedro [1]105 DeMille, Cecil B. [2]195, [2]204 de Miranda, Francisco [1]136 De Morgen [1]92 Deng Xiaoping [1]47 Denver, Colorado [1]191–[1]206 Denver Art Museum [1]203 Denver Botanic Gardens [1]202 (photo) Denver Broncos [1]201 Denver Free University [1]199 Denver International Airport [1]192, [1]197 Denver Museum of Natural History [1]204 Denver Nuggets [1]201 Denver Symphony Orchestra [1]202 Denver Theater Company [1]202 Denver Zoo and Natural History Museum [1]202 Denver, James [1]197 de Pimentel, Juan [1]135 de Porres, Saint Martin [2]167 de Sá, Estácio [4]49, [4]55 de San Martín, Jóse [2]162 Descartes, René [3]210 Desert Botanical Garden (Phoenix, Arizona) [4]30 de Sintra, Pedro [3]72 de Sorbon, Robert [3]210 de Soto, Hernando [3]161 De Standaard [1]92 Detroit, Michigan [2]1–[2]20 Detroit Historical Museum [2]18 Detroit Institute of Arts [2]8, [2]18 Detroit Lions [2]8 Detroit Pistons [2]16 Detroit Public Library [2]17 Detroit Red Wings [2]8, [2]10, [2]15 (photo) Detroit River [2]1, [2]6, [2]7, [2]12 Detroit Science Center [2]18 Detroit Shock [2]16 Detroit Tigers [2]8 Detroit Vipers [2]16
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Index Detroit-Windsor Tunnel [2]4 de Vega, Lope [2]217 De Wildt Cheetah Research Centre [2]134 DFW Metroplex see Dallas, Texas Diamond Head [2]52 d’Iberville, Pierre le Moyne [3]161 Dickens, Charles [2]186 Die Welt [1]59 Dillinger, John [1]151 DiMaggio, Joe [3]187 Dinesen, Isak see Blixen, Karen Ding Ling [1]47 Dinkins, David [3]182, [3]192 Disney, Walter Elias (Walt) [1]159 Disney amusement parks [2]24, [2]35, [2]201, [3]207 District of Columbia [4]187–[4]204 Dittrick Museum of Medical History [1]174 Dix, Dorothea [1]80 Dix, Otto [1]61 Dixit, Madhuri [3]113 Doe, Samuel K. [3]75, [3]76, [3]81 Dome of the Rock [2]110, [2]118 (photo) Donelson, John [3]142 Dorval Airport (Montréal, Québec) [3]84, [3]86 Douglass, Frederick [4]203 Drago, Luis Maria [1]113 Drapeau, Jean [3]88, [3]98 Dreyfus, Alfred [3]211 Dryden, John [2]186 du Bois, W. E. B. [1]6 du Sable, Jean Baptiste Point [1]150 Du Sable Museum of African American History [1]158 Dutch East India Company [3]180 Dvorak, Antonin [4]47
E Eagle Creek Park [2]87 Eakins, Thomas [4]17 Earhart, Amelia [3]67 Earthquakes Lima, Peru [2]159 Los Angeles, California [2]196 Mexico City, Mexico [3]28 San Francisco, California [4]91, [4]94 Tokyo, Japan [4]141 East Africa (Nairobi, Kenya) [3]115–[3]135 East Germany see Germany East River [3]176 Ecevit, Bulent [2]106
214
Echegaray y Eizaguirre, Jose [2]217 ECOMOG see Economic Community of West African States Monitoring Group Economic Community of West African States Monitoring Group (ECOMOG) [3]75 Eddy, Mary Baker [1]69, [1]80 Edgar Allan Poe National Historic Site [4]15 Edo see Tokyo Edward the Confessor, King [2]176 eGoli see Johannesburg, South Africa Egypt, Cairo [1]115–[1]130 Egyptian Revolution [1]121 Eiffel, Alexandre Gustave [3]211 Eiffel Tower [1]93, [3]200, [3]203, [3]209, [3]211 Eiteljorg Museum of American Indian and Western Art [2]87, [2]89 Èkó see Lagos, Nigeria El Al Airlines [2]108 El Desierto de los Leones [3]34 Elephanta Island [3]102, [3]104, [3]111 Eliot, T. S. [2]187 Elizabeth I [2]169, [2]177, [2]186 Elizabeth II [2]187 Ellicott, Andrew [4]193 Ellington, Edward “Duke” [4]203 Ellis Island [3]181 El Museo del Barrio [3]190 El Niño [1]58 El Pueblo de Los Angeles Historic District [2]193 El Pueblo de Nuestra Senora la Reina de los Angeles [2]194 Emma, Queen [2]54 Emerson, Ralph Waldo [1]71, [1]80 Empire State Building [3]182 England, London [2]169–[2]188 English Channel [1]84 Enrico Fermi Institute [1]154 Enron Field, Houston [2]60 Enver, Pasha [2]106 Erie Canal [2]7, [3]181 Ernest Tubb’s Record Shop [3]150 Estadio Azteca (stadium) [3]33 EuroDisneyland [3]207 Europe Berlin, Germany [1]49–[1]63 Brussels, Belgium [1]83–[1]96 Instanbul, Turkey [2]93–[2]106 London, England [2]169–[2]188 Madrid, Spain [2]205–[2]217
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Index Paris, France [3]195–[3]212 Prague, Czech Republic [4]35–[4]48 Rome, Italy [4]63–[4]84 European Union [1]57, [1]83, [1]86, [1]88, [1]89 Ewan, J.W. [3]42 Expos, Montreal [3]95 Ezeiza International Airport [1]100
F Fairbanks, Sr., Douglas [1]205, [2]204 Fairmount Waterworks [4]12 Fair Park (Dallas, Texas) [1]187 Fajardo, Francisco [1]135 Faneuil Hall Marketplace [1]72, [1]75, [1]79 Farnsworth, Philo Taylor [4]99 Faruk, King [1]129 Feinstein, Dianne [4]91, [4]99 Fellini, Federico [4]83 Fenollosa, Ernest F. [4]148 Fenway Park [1]74, [1]77 (photo) Ferdinand of Hapsburg [4]40 Ferlinghetti, Lawrence [4]99 Fermi, Enrico [1]151 Fiedler, Arthur [1]80 Field hockey [3]130 Field Museum of Natural History [1]155, [1]157 Film City see Mumbai, India Fires Atlanta, Georgia [1]6 Detroit, Michigan [2]7 San Francisco, California [4]91 First City in India see Mumbai, India First Colony, Houston, Texas [2]64 Fisherman’s Wharf [4]92, [4]94 Fitzgerald, F. Scott [3]67 Fiumicino (airport) [4]66 Flagler, Henry [3]42 Flanders Province [1]88 Fleet Center [1]77 Flora Fountain (Mumbai, India) [3]104 Florida, Miami [3]37–[3]52 Florida Marlins [3]47 Florida Philharmonic Orchestra [3]49 Flying Doctors [3]128 Fogg Art Museum [1]78 Folger Shakespeare Library [4]201 Folies Bergères [3]201 Football see also Soccer Atlanta Falcons [1]11
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
B.C. Lions [4]181 Dallas Cowboys [1]187 Denver Broncos [1]201 Detroit Lions [2]8 Indianapolis Colts [2]86 Los Angeles Rams [2]199 Miami Dolphins [3]47 Minnesota Vikings [3]64 Montreal Alouettes [3]95 New Orleans Saints [3]167 New York Giants [3]187 Oakland Raiders [4]96 Philadelphia Eagles [4]12 San Francisco 49ers [4]96 Seattle Seahawks [4]111 Sugar Bowl [3]167 Sydney Swans [4]127 Tennessee Titans [3]148 Washington Redskins [4]197 Forbidden City [1]34, [1]37, [1]44 Ford II, Henry [2]10 Foster, Jodie [2]203 442nd Regimental Combat Team [2]49 Fragrant Harbor see Hong Kong France, Paris [3]195–[3]212 Francisco, Miranda [1]144 Francisco, Narváez [1]143 Franco, Francisco [2]206, [2]212 Franken, Al [3]67 Franklin, Benjamin [4]11, [4]17 Franklin Field [4]12 Franklin Institute Science Museum [4]4, [4]16 Franklin Park [1]75, [1]78 Fraser River [4]169, [4]170 Fratianne, Linda [2]203 Frederick the Great [1]55 Freed, Alan [1]175 Freedom Trail [1]68, [1]79 Free University of Brussels [1]91 Freie Universität Berlin [1]59 French Canadians [3]87 French and Indian War [2]7, [3]89 French Quarter (New Orleans, Louisiana) [3]165, [3]169 Fu-hsing Gate [1]43 Fujimori, Alberto [2]163, [2]168 Fuldheim, Dorothy [1]175 Fung Ping Shan Museum [2]35
215
Index G Galeão Airport [4]50 Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert [1]91 Galileo [4]72 Gallier House Museum [3]169 Gandhi, Mohandas Karamchand [3]106 Garcia, Jerry [4]99 García Lorca, Federico [2]218 Gardel, Carlos [1]97, [1]113 Garfield Park [2]87 Garrison, William Lloyd [1]71, [1]80 Garvey, Marcus [3]192 Gastown (Vancouver, British Columbia) [4]173, [4]179 Gates, Bill [4]115 Gateway of India [3]102, [3]111 Gathering Place see Honolulu Gatwick Airport [2]170 Gauls [3]201 Gauteng Province [2]124 Gavaskar, S. M. [3]113 Gazirah [1]125 Genghis Khan [1]38 Genocide [3]125 Gentlemen of St. Suplice [3]89 George V, King [3]111 George Bush Intercontinental Airport [2]58, [2]63 George Observatory (Houston, Texas) [2]64 Georges River Georgia, Atlanta [1]1–[1]16 Georgia Dome [1]11 German Women’s Teacher’s Association [1]62 Germany, Berlin [1]49–[1]63 Getty, J. Paul [3]67 Gettysburg, Battle of [4]8 Ghent [1]84 Gilbert, William [2]187 Ginastera, Alberto Evaristo [1]113 Ginsberg, Allen [3]192, [4]99 Giuliani, Rudolph [3]182 Giza pyramid [1]117 Glienicke Palace [1]60 Globe Theatre [2]183 Goa, India [3]100 Gobelins’ Tapestry Factory [3]209 Goldberg Sports Hall [2]118 Gold Coast Railroad Museum [3]49 Golden Gate Bridge and Park [4]85 [4]96 Golden Horn [2]93, [2]96, [2]99 (photo) Golden Prague see Prague, Czech Republic
216
Golden State Warriors [4]96 Gold mining Denver, Colorado [1]197, [1]204 Johannesburg, South Africa [2]128 San Francisco, California [4]90 Vancouver, B.C. [4]178 Gold Museum of Peru [2]167 Goldwater, Barry [4]33 Golf Hong Kong [2]33 Nashville, Tennessee [3]148 Phoenix, Arizona [4]28 Rome, Italy [4]78 Tokyo, Japan [4]144 Gomes, Mariano [3]15 Gongren Ribao [1]43 Goodman, Benny [1]159 Gordimer, Nadine [2]137 Gordy, Berry [2]8, [2]18 Gore, Al [3]152 Gospel Music Hall of Fame [2]18 Gottschalk, Louis Moreau [3]170 Gould, Glenn [4]166 Grady, Henry W. [1]14 Graham, Bill [4]99 Graham, Katharine [4]203 Graham, Robert [2]4 Grain Coast see Monrovia, Liberia Grand Canyon (Phoenix, Arizona) [4]28 Grand Central Railroad Terminal [3]174 Grand Ole Opry [3]137, [3]144, [3]145 (photo) Grand Ole Opry House [3]150 Grand Ole Opry Museum [3]151 Grand Palace (Bangkok, Thailand) [1]29 Grand Place [1]83, [1]86, [1]88 (photo), [1]91, [1]94 Grand Sablon Square [1]86 Grand Trunk Railways see Canadian National Railway Grant, Ulysses S. [4]194 Grant Park (Chicago, Illinois) [1]155 Granville Island [4]173, [4]179 Grateful Dead [4]97 Graystone Jazz Museum [2]18 Great Britain see United Kingdom Great Depression [1]55, [1]56, [1]71, [1]73 Chicago, Illinois [1]151 Cleveland, Ohio [1]167 Detroit, Michigan [2]8 New York, New York [3]182 Philadelphia, Pennsylvania [4]8
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Index Great Lakes [3]83, [1]161, [3]181 Great Lakes Science Center (Cleveland, Ohio) [1]173 Great Wall [1]36, [1]47 (photo) Greece [1]92 Greeley, Horace [3]192 Greenaway, Francis [4]131 Greenfield Village [2]18 Greenwich Village (New York) [3]179 Grévin Museum [3]209 Greyhound racing [3]48, [4]28 Griffith Observatory and Planetarium [2]200 Grooms, Red [3]152 Gross, Terry [4]12 Grossman, David [2]121 Grosz, George [1]61 Grunewald [1]50 Grunge rock [4]101, [4]112 Guanabara Bay [4]49 Guanyuan Market [1]42 Guggenheim Museum [3]190 Guiare River [1]138 Gujarat (Mumbai, India) [3]105 Gulf of Mexico [2]57 Gulf of Thailand [1]17, [1]18 Gurley, Ralph Randolph [3]81 Guthrie Theatre [3]65
H Haas Sherover Promenade [2]118 Haffkine, W. M. [3]113 Haghia Sophia [2]99 Hahn, Otto [1]62 Haji Ali's Mosque [3]102, [3]111 Hall of Members Cemetery [2]120 Hall of the Nameless Dead [4]140 Hamid, Sultan Abd al- [2]101 Hamill, Pete [3]192 Hamilton, Alexander [3]192 Hamilton, Edward N. [2]16 Hancock, John [1]80 Haneda Airport [4]134 Hanff, Helene [2]180 Hanging Gardens (Mumbai, India) [3]103, [3]110 Hannibal [4]71 Hapoel Jerusalem [2]118 Harbour Tunnel (Sydney, Australia) [4]118 Hare, Augustus William [4]83 Haring, Keith [3]192 Harlem Renaissance [3]181
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Harold Washington Library Center [1]157 Harris, Jeremy [2]40 Harris, Joel Chandler [1]14 Harris, John Richardson [2]64 Harrisburg, Texas [2]64 Harrison, Benjamin [2]90 Harrison, George [2]128 Harry, Debby [3]52 Harte, Bret [4]99 Hart, William [2]10 Hart Plaza (Detroit, Michigan) [2]4 Hartsfield International Airport [1]7 Hartsfield, William [1]6 Hartzler-Towner Multicultural Museum [3]151 Harvard University [1]65, [1]66, [1]71, [1]75, [1]76, (photo), [1]79 Hatch Shell [1]78 Haussmann, Baron Georges-Eugène [3]203, [3]211 Havel, Vaclav [4]42, [4]47, [1]53, [1]59 Hawaii, Honolulu [2]39–[2]55 Hawaii Maritime Center [2]52 Hawaiian Airlines [2]40 Hawaiian Islands [2]44 Hayes, Helen [4]203 Heard Museum (Phoenix, Arizona) [4]31 Hearns, Thomas [2]16 Hearst, William Randolph [2]8, [4]99 Heathrow Airport [2]170 Hebei Province, Beijing [1]33–[1]48 Hebrew Union College [2]116 Heliopolis [1]118, [1]125 Hellman, Lillian [3]171 Hemingway, Ernest [2]218 Hendrix, Jimi [4]115 Hennepin, Father Louis [3]58 Henri IV, king of France [3]207 Henry VIII, King [2]186 Henry Ford Museum (photo) [2]9 Herald Square (New York) [3]177 Hermann-Grima Historic House [3]169 Herriman, George [3]171 Herzl, Theodore [2]111 Heyrovsky, Jaroslav [4]47 Higgins, Marguerite [2]36 High Museum of Art [1]13 Hines, Harry [1]190 Hippodrome (Istanbul, Turkey) [2]103 Hitchcock, Alfred [2]187 Hitler, Adolph [1]49, [1]55, [2]212
217
Index Hitsville USA/Motown Historical Museum [2]18 HKSAR see Hong Kong Hobby, William P. Airport [2]58 Hockey Anaheim Mighty Ducks [2]199 Atlanta Thrashers [1]11 Dallas Stars [1]187 Denver, Colorado [1]201 Detroit Red Wings [2]8, [2]10, [2]15 (photo) Detroit Vipers [2]16 Indianapolis Ice [2]86 Los Angeles Kings [2]199 Montreal Canadiens [3]95 Nashville Night Hawks [3]148 New Orleans Brass [3]167 New York Islanders [3]187 New York Rangers [3]187 Philadelphia Flyers [4]12 Phoenix Coyotes [4]28 Phoenix Roadrunners [4]28 San Jose Sharks [4]96 Seattle Thunderbirds Hockey Club [4]111 Vancouver Canucks [4]181 Hoffman, Dustin [2]203 Hogarth, William [2]186 Hog Butcher to the World see Chicago, Illinois Hogg, James [2]61 Hogg, Mike [2]61 Hogg, Will [2]61 Hohenzollerns [1]54, [1]59 Holliday, John H. ("Doc") [1]189 Hollywood, California [2]193 Holmes, Oliver Wendell [1]71 Holocaust Memorial Museum (Washington, D.C.) [4]195 Hong Kong, China [2]21–[2]38 Hong Kong Coliseum [2]25, [2]33 Hong Kong History Museum [2]35 Hong Kong International Airport [2]22 Hong Kong Marathon [2]33 Hong Kong Museum of Art [2]35 Hongqiao Market [1]42 Honolulu, Hawaii [2]39–[2]55 Honolulu Academy of Arts [2]52 Honolulu International Airport [2]40 Honolulu Symphony Orchestra [2]52 Hoosier Dome see RCA Dome Hope, Bob [1]175 Horniman Circle (Mumbai, India) [3]104
218
Horse racing [2]33 Chicago, Illinois [1]155 Los Angeles, California [2]199 Manila, Philippines [3]12 Miami, Florida [3]48 Mumbai, India [3]110 Nairobi, Kenya [3]131 New Orleans [3]167 New York, New York [3]187 Paris, France [3]207 Phoenix, Arizona [4]28 Rome, Italy [4]78 Hôtel de Cluny Museum [3]209 Hotel de Ville [1]86 Houde, Camillien [3]90, [3]91 Houston, Sam [2]65 (photo) Houston, Texas [2]57–[2]76 Houston Astros [2]60, [2]71 Houston Museum of Natural Science [2]60 Houston Oilers see Tennessee Titans Houston Rockets [2]74 Houston Zoological Gardens [2]60 Huáscar [2]161 Hubert H. Humphrey Metrodome [3]63 Hudnut, William H. [2]83 Hudson, Henry [3]180 Hudson Institute [2]89 Hudson River [3]176 Hughes, Adella Prentiss [1]175 Hugo Chávez [1]138 Hugo, Victor [3]207, [3]210, [3]2111 Hull House [1]148, [1]159 Humble, P. S. [2]63 Humphrey, Hubert H. [3]67 Hurricanes [3]44 Hus, Jan [4]47 Husayn, Taha [1]129 Hussein, M.F. [3]113 Hyde Park [2]176, [2]182 Hynes, John B. [1]70
I Iberian Peninsula (Madrid, Spain) [2]206 Ibrahim Palace Museum [2]97, [2]105 Idris, Yusuf [1]129 Ieyasu, Tokugawa [4]139 Iglesias, Julio [2]217 Ile de la Cité (Paris, France) [3]202 Illinois, Chicago [1]145–[1]160
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Index Imperial British East Africa Company (IBEA) [3]121 Imperial Palace (Beijing, China) [1]39, [1]46 Imperial Palace (Tokyo, Japan) [4]139, [4]146 Imperial Sugar [2]64 Inca Empire [2]160 Independence Hall (Philadelphia, Pennsylania) [4]7 Independence National Historic Park [4]4, [4]13 Independence Park (Gan Ha’Atzmaut) [2]118 Independence Seaport Museum [4]14 India, Mumbai [3]99–[3]114 Indiana, Indianapolis [2]77–[2]91 Indiana Pacers [2]86 Indianapolis 500 [2]77, [2]84 (photo), [2]86 Indianapolis, Indiana [2]77–[2]91 Indianapolis Colts [2]86 Indianapolis 500 [2]77, [2]84 (photo), [2]86 Indianapolis Ice [2]86 Indianapolis Indians [2]86 Indianapolis International Airport [2]78 Indianapolis Motor Speedway and Hall of Fame Museum [2]77, [2]83, [2]89 Indianapolis Museum of Art [2]89 Indianapolis Symphony Orchestra [2]88 Indianapolis Zoo [2]87 Indiana State Museum [2]89 Indian Ocean [3]115 Indians see Native Americans Industrial Revolution [1]54, [1]56, [2]169 Indy 500 see Indianapolis 500 Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI) [3]28 International Center of Photography [3]190 International Dragon Boat Races [2]33, [2]36 (photo) International Hockey League [2]16 International Monetary Fund [1]25 International Museum of Surgical Sciences [1]158 Iolani Palace [2]42, [2]53 Ireland [1]71 Iron Age [4]70 Iroquois Memorial Steeplechase [3]148 Irving, Washington [3]192 Isabella [1]88 Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum [1]78 Islamic Art Museum [2]119 Ismail, Khedive [1]125 Israel, Jerusalem [2]107–[2]122 Israel Museum [2]111, [2]119 Istanbul, Turkey [2]93–[2]106 Italy [1]92 Rome, Italy [4]63–[4]84
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
J Jabel Park [1]93 Jack Kent Cooke Stadium [4]197 Jackson, Andrew [2]7, [3]137, [3]142, [3]152, [3]162 Jackson, Jesse [1]159 Jackson, Phil [1]155 Jacobo Borges [1]143 Jacobs Field (Cleveland, Ohio) [1]168 Jaffa Gate [2]108 Jai-alai [3]12, [3]48 Jakande, Alhaji Lateef [2]154 Jamaica Plain [1]70, [1]75 James Ford Bell Museum of Natural History [3]66 James L. Knight International Center [3]50 Japan, Tokyo [4]133–[4]150 Jawhar [1]118 Jazz [3]168 Jeejeebhoy, Sir Jamsetjee [3]113 Jeepneys [3]4, [3]15 (photo) Jefferson, Blind Lemon [1]190 Jefferson, Thomas [4]200 Jefferson Memorial (photo) [4]192 Jerusalem, Israel [2]107–[2]122 Jerusalem Symphony Orchestra [2]119 Jesus Christ [4]71 Jevanjee, A.M. [3]134 Jewish Museum [3]190 Jijamata Garden [3]110 Jinnah, M. A. [3]113 João VI [4]56 Jobim, Antonio Carlos [4]62 Joe Louis Arena [2]10, [2]16 Johannesburg, South Africa [2]123–[2]138 Johannesburg Aquarium and Reptile Park [2]134 Johannesburg International Airport [2]124 Johannesburg Public Library [2]135 Johannesburg Stock Exchange [2]126 Johannesburg Zoological Gardens [2]134 John B. Hynes Veterans Convention Center [1]79 John the Baptist [2]111 John F. Kennedy International Airport [3]174 John F. Kennedy Library [1]78 John Hancock Building [1]70, [1]79 John of Luxembourg [4]40 John Paul I [4]83 John Paul II [2]6, [4]72 Johnson, Philip [3]192 Johnson, Prince [3]75 Johnson, Samuel [2]186
219
Index Johnson Space Center [2]63 Jomo Kenyatta International Airport [3]118 Jones, Robert Tyre “Bobby” [1]14 Jonsson, J. Erik Central Library [1]188 Jordan, Michael [1]155, [1]159 Jordan Hall [1]78 Jordan River [2]107 Jorge Chávez International Airport [2]156 Joseph II [4]41 Judaean Desert [2]108, [2]118 Judaean Hills [2]107 Judaica [2]119 Judiciary History Center (Honolulu, Hawaii) [2]52 Juju Beach (Mumbai, India) [3]110 Justinian [2]99, [2]104
K Kaaitheater [1]93 Kafka, Franz [4]47 Kahlo, Frida [3]34, [3]35 Ka’iulani, Princess [2]54 Kalakaua, King [2]46 Kaline, Al [2]20 Kamala Nehru Park [3]110 Kamehameha III [2]39, [2]45, [2]52 Kam Tin Walled Village [2]24, [2]35 Kane, Paul [4]166 Kanheri Caves [3]110 Kapoor, Prithviraj [3]110 Kasarani Stadium [3]129 Keillor, Garrison [3]67 Keino, Kipchoge “Kip” [3]129 Kelly, Grace [4]17 Kemal, Mustafa see Atatürk Keneally, Thomas [4]131 Kennedy, John Fitzgerald [1]68, [1]80, [1]183 See also John F. Kennedy Kennedy, Robert F. [2]195 Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park [1]12 Kenya, Mombasa [3]116 Kenya, Nairobi [3]115–[3]135 Kenya National Museum [3]132 Kenya Safari Rally [3]129 Kenyatta, Jomo [3]134 Kerouac, Jack [4]99 Kessler, George [1]182 Kew Gardens [2]182 Key Biscayne Bay [3]37, [3]50 (photo) Khan al-Khalili Bazaar [1]122, [1]123 (photo)
220
Khanbaliq [1]38 King David [2]112 King Dome [4]111 King George V [2]152 King, Dr. Martin Luther Jr. [1]7, [1]14, [2]5, [2]8, [4]194, [4]199 King, Rodney [2]196 Kings Adulyadej, Bhumibol [1]24, [1]31 Alfred of Wessex [2]176 Charles III [2]211 David [2]112 Edward the Confessor [2]176 Faruk [1]129 George V [2]152 Henry VIII [2]186 Kamehameha III [2]39, [2]45, [2]52 Louis XIV [1]88, [3]207, [3]210 Rama I [1]23, [1]30 Rama II [1]23 Rama IX [1]28 Rama V [1]23 Ramiro II of León [2]211 Solomon [2]112 Kingsford Smith Airport [4]118, [4]125 King Solomon [2]112 Kipling, Rudyard [3]113 Klima, Ivan [4]47 Knesset [2]111, [2]113. [2]115 (photo) Koch, Ed [3]182, [3]192 Kokoschka, Oskar [4]47 Kollek, Teddy [2]117, [2]121 Korean War Veterans Memorial [4]195 Kress Collection of Italian Renaissance Art [2]52 Ku, god of war [2]42 Ku’damm see Kurfürstendamm Kublai Khan [1]38 Kundera, Milan [4]47 K’un-ming Lake [1]44 Kurosawa, Akira [4]149 Kushner, Tony [4]112
L La Brea Tar Pits [2]200, [2]202 (photo) Lagos, Nigeria [2]139–[2]154 Lagos City Stadium [2]152 LaGuardia, Fiorello [3]182, [3]192 LaGuardia Airport [3]174 La Horrible see Lima, Peru
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Index Lake Erie [1]161, [1]162, [1]164, [1]170 Lake Michigan [1]147, [1]152, [1]155 Lake Pontchartrain [3]153, [3]161 Lakers, Los Angeles[2]199 Lakes Great Lakes [3]83, [3]181 Lake Erie [1]161, [1]162, [1]164, [1]170 Lake Michigan [1]147, [1]152, [1]155 Lake Pontchartrain [3]153, [3]161 Lake Washington [4]101 Lake Washington [4]101 Land of 10,000 Lakes see Minneapolis, Minnesota Lang, Fritz [1]55 Lange, Helen [1]62 Lao She [1]47 la Salle, Robert Cavalier de [3]161 Lateran Treaty [4]72 Lawn bowling [3]206 LAX see Los Angeles International Airport Lazio soccer team [4]78 Leacock, Stephen [3]98 League of Nations [2]113 Leakey, Richard [3]134 Lee, Bruce [2]36 Lee, Gypsy Rose [4]115 Lei Cheng Uk Museum [2]35 le Moyne brothers (New Orleans, Louisiana) [3]161 L’Enfant, Pierre Charles [2]82, [4]190[4]193, [4]203 Leonardo da Vinci Airport [4]66 Leopold I [1]88 Lerma, Orencio [3]16 Le Sueur, Meridel [3]68 Letecke Meuseum (Aviation Museum, Prague) [4]38 Letterman, David [2]90 Lévesque, René [3]88, [3]90, [3]98 Liberia, Monrovia [3]69–[3]82 Liberty Bell (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania) [4]1, [4]7 Liberty Bell Park (Jerusalem, Israel) [2]118 Licinius [2]98 Li Dazhou [1]48 Lili’uokalani, Queen [2]46, [2]49, [2]54 Lilly, Eli [2]90 Lima, Peru [2]155–[2]168 Limeños (Lima, Peru) [2]166 Lincoln, Abraham [1]150, [4]193, [4]199 Lincoln Center (New York) [3]177, [3]180 Lincoln Memorial [4]194, [4]199 (photo) Lincoln Park Zoo (Chicago, Illinois) [1]156 Lindbergh, Charles [2]19
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Lockerbie Square (Indianapolis) [2]80 Lockfield Gardens [2]83 LoDo District (Denver, Colorado) [1]195, [1]201 Logan International Airport [1]66, [1]73 Londinium see London London, England [1]34, [1]84, [2]169–[2]188 London Bridge [2]174 London Stock Exchange [2]175 London Underground [2]172 London, Jack [4]99 Long’s Peak [1]198 Longue Vue House and Gardens [3]169 Lono, god of fertility [2]42 Lopez de Legaspi, Miguel [3]7 Lopez Museum [3]14 Lorring, Joan [2]36 Los Angeles, California [1]34, [2]189–[2]204 Los Angeles Clippers [2]199 Los Angeles Dodgers [2]199 Los Angeles International Airport [2]190 Los Angeles Kings [2]199 Los Angeles Lakers [2]199 Los Angeles Philharmonic Orchestra [2]201 Los Angeles Public Library [1]78 Los Angeles Zoo [2]200 Lotz House Museum [3]151 Louis, Joe [2]5, [2]8, [2]16, [2]19 Louis XIV [1]88, [3]207, [3]210 Louisiana, New Orleans [3]153–[3]172 Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra [3]169 Louisiana Purchase [3]160, [3]161 Louisiana State Museum [3]169 Louisiana Territory [3]161 Louvre (photo) [3]208 Love Field [1]178 Lower East Side Tenement Museum [3]190 Lumphini Park [1]28 Lutetia see Paris, France Luxembourg [1]84 Luxor, Egypt [1]115 Lu Xun [1]46, [1]48 Luzon, Manila, Philippines [3]1–[3]17
M Macauley, Herbert [2]154 Macauley, T. B. [2]150 Macedonia [2]101 Machiavelli, Niccolo [4]83 Mackenzie, William Lyon [4]166
221
Index Macquarie, Lachlan [4]122, [4]131 Madiba see Mandela, Nelson Madiba Freedom Museum [2]136 Madison, Dolley [4]203 Madison Square Garden [3]187 Madonna [2]19 Madrid, Spain [2]205–[2]217 Madrileños [2]206 Magnificent Mile (Chicago, Illinois) [1]149, [1]153 Maharashtra [3]99 Maharashtra State, Mumbai, India [3]99–[3]114 Mahatma Gandhi see Gandhi, Mohandas Karamchand Mahfouz, Naguib [1]129 Mailer, Norman [3]192 Maine [1]66 Major League Baseball Anaheim Angels [2]199 Arizona Diamondbacks [4]28 Atlanta Braves [1]8, [1]11 Baltimore Orioles [4]198 Colorado Rockies [1]195 Detroit Tigers [2]8 Los Angeles Dodgers [2]199 Montreal Expos [3]95 New York Mets [3]187 New York Yankees [3]187 Oakland Athletics (“Oakland A’s”) [4]96 Philadelphia Phillies [4]12 San Francisco Giants [4]96 Seattle Mariners [4]111 Texas Rangers [1]185, [1]187 Makeba, Miriam [2]137 Malacanang Palace (Manila, Philippines) [3]14 Malcolm X [1]80 Mall of America (Minneapolis, Minnesota) [3]63 Mamluks [1]119 Mandela, Nelson [2]136, [2]137 Manet, Edouard [3]211 Mangaldas Market [3]108 Manhattan [3]177, [3]178 see also New York, New York Manila, Philippines [3]1–[3]17 Manila Bay [3]9 Manila Metrostars [3]12 Manneken Pis [1]93 Manzanares River [2]210 Mao Zedong [1]33, [1]39, [1]48 Maracaibo basin [1]137, [1]138 Maracanã stadium [4]59 Marcos, Ferdinand [3]8
222
Mardi Gras celebration [3]153, [3]170 Margaret of Austria [1]88 Margarita Island [1]135 Maria I [4]56 Mariani, Angelo [4]83 Mariette, Auguste [1]129 Mark Antony [4]71 Market Square Arena [2]86 Marlins [3]47 Marriner, Sir Neville [3]65 Marsalis, Branford [3]171 Marthasville see Atlanta, Georgia Martin Luther King, Jr. National Historic Site [1]14 Marvelous City see Rio de Janeiro, Brazil Marzahn [1]50 Masaryk, Thomas Garrique [4]41, [4]47 Masina, Giulietta [4]83 Massachusetts Bay [1]65, [1]66 Massachusetts Bay Colony [1]71 Massachusetts General Hospital [1]71, [1]76 Massachusetts Institute of Technology [1]65, [1]71, [1]75 Massachusetts Port Authority [1]67 Mastroianni, Marcello [4]83 Matatus (minibuses) [3]118 Mathare United [3]129 Mather, Cotton [1]80 Maura, Carmen [2]217 Max Müller Bhavan library [3]111 May Weber Museum of Cultural Arts [1]158 Mboya, Tom [3]134 McCarthy, Mary [4]115 McCord Museum [3]97 McCullough, Colleen [4]131 McKim, Charles [4]194 McMahon, Ed [2]19 McQueen, Steve [2]90 Mead, Margaret [4]17 Meadowlands Sports Complex [3]187 Medici, Marie de’ [3]207 Mediterranean Sea [2]98, [4]63 Mehemet ’Ali [1]120 Mehmed II [2]100 Mehta, Zubin [3]110, [3]113 Meiji Restoration [4]139 Meiji Shrine [4]142, [4]145 Mei-shan Park see Ching-shan Park Mellon, Paul [4]200 Menem, Carlos [1]102
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Index Mercer Arboretum, Houston, Texas [2]72 Mérida, Venezuela [1]135 Mesquite Symphony Orchestra [1]188 Mesta, Perle [4]203 Mestizos [3]22 Mesurado River [3]69 Metropoulos, Dmitri [3]65 Mets [3]187 Meuse River [1]89 Mexican-American War [3]27, [3]33 Mexican Fine Arts Center Museum [1]158 Mexican Revolution (1910–17) [3]27 Mexican War [4]90 Mexico, Mexico City [3]19–[3]36 Mexico City, Mexico [3]19–[3]36 Miami, Florida [3]37–[3]52 Miami City Ballet Company [3]41, [3]52 Miami Dolphins [3]47 Miami Freedom [3]48 Miami Grand Prix [3]48 Miami Heat [3]47 Miami International Airport [3]38 Miami Museum of Science and Space Transit Planetarium [3]49 Miami River [3]37 Miami Youth Museum [3]49 Michelangelo see Buonarroti, Michelangelo Michigan, Detroit [2]1–[2]20 Microsoft [4]107 Middle East [2]107–[2]122 Midwest Stock Exchange [1]152 Mighty Ducks [2]199 Mile High Stadium [1]200 Milk, Harvey [4]91 Milton, John [2]169, [2]186 Ming dynasty [1]45 Minneapolis, Minnesota [3]53–[3]68 Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport [3]54 Minnesota History Center [3]66 Minnesota Timberwolves [3]64 Minnesota Twins [3]63 Minnesota Vikings [3]64 Minnesota, Minneapolis [3]53–[3]68 Minnesota River [3]53 Mishima, Yukio [4]148 Missionaries [2]45 Mission Houses Museum [2]52 Mississippi River [3]53, [3]168 Mitchell, Margaret [1]10, [1]15
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Mitre, Bartolomé [1]112 Mitre Museum (Buenos Aires, Argentina) [1]112 Miyake, Issey [4]149 Moctezuma [3]26 Moffat Tunnel [1]197, [1]202 Moi, Daniel arap [3]134 Molenbeek-St. Jean [1]86 Molière [3]210 Molly Brown see Brown, Molly Mombasa, Kenya [3]116 Mondale, Walter F. [3]67 Monet, Claude [3]207, [3]211 Monk, Meredith [2]168 Monroe, James [3]69, [3]73, [3]74 Monroe, Marilyn [2]203 Mons [1]84 Montefiore, Moses [2]113 Monteverdi, Claudio [4]84 Montevideo [1]100 Montmartre [3]201 Montréal, Québec [3]83–[3]98 Montreal Alouettes [3]95 Montreal Canadiens [3]95 Montreal Expos [3]95 Montreal Forum [3]95 Montreal Museum of Fine Arts [3]97 Mont Tremblant [3]96 Moody Gardens, Houston, Texas [2]60 Moorer, Michael [2]16 Moors [2]206, [2]210 Moraes, Dom [3]113 More, Thomas [2]186 Morgan, J. Pierpont [3]192 Morita, Akio [4]148 Morocco [1]92 Morrison, Toni [1]175 Morton, Jelly Roll [3]171 Mosaic Museum [2]97, [2]105 Moscone, George [4]91 Moses, Robert [3]192 Motor City see Detroit, Michigan Motown see Detroit, Michigan Motown Music [2]8 Mount Corcovado (Rio de Janeiro, Brazil) [4]52, [4]61 Mount Evans [1]198 Mount of Olives [2]108, [2]111 Mount Rainier [4]101 Mount Royal [3]88, [3]95 Mount Scopus [2]108, [2]111, [2]116, [2]117
223
Index Mubarak, Hosni [1]121 Mubarak, Suzanne [1]123 Muir, John [4]100 Mumbai, India [3]99–[3]114 Mumbai Devi [3]99 Mumbai Central [3]100 Mumbai Harbor [3]102, [3]105 Mumbai Island [3]99, [3]100, [3]103, [3]105 Mumbai Zoo [3]110 Murtala Muhammed Airport (Lagos, Nigeria) [2]142 Musashino Plateau [4]142 Museum Island [1]52, [1]60, [1]61 Music Atlanta, Georgia [1]12 Buenos Aires, Argentina [1]110 Czech Republic [4]46 Liberia [3]80 Nairobi, Kenya [3]131 Nashville, Tennessee [3]149 New Orleans [3]169 New York, New York [3]189 Philadelphia, Pennsylvania [4]12 Phoenix, Arizona [4]30 Rome, Italy [4]80 San Francisco [4]97 Seattle, Washington [4]112 Sydney, Australia [4]129 Vancouver, British Columbia [4]182 Musical Theatre Berlin [1]61 Mussolini, Benito [2]213, [4]72 Mwangi, Meja [3]134 Mystic River [1]74
N NAACP see National Association for the Advancement of Colored People (NAACP) Nairobbery see Nairobi, Kenya Nairobi, Kenya [3]115–[3]135 Nairobi Arboretum [3]130 Nairobi National Park [3]130 Namur [1]84 Nanjing [1]39 Naoroji, Dr. Dhadabhai [3]113 Napoleon [4]72 Napoleon III [1]120 Napoleonic Wars Madrid, Spain [2]211 Rio de Janeiro, Brazil [4]55 Narváez, José Maria [4]176
224
NASA see National Aeronautics and Space Administration NASA Johnson Space Center [2]63 Nash, Francis [3]142 Nashville, Tennessee [3]137–[3]152 Nashville Toy Museum [3]151 Nashville Zoo [3]141 Nasser, Gamal Abdel [1]118 National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA) [2]66, [3]162 National Association for the Advancement of Colored People (NAACP), founding of [1]6 National Basketball Association (NBA) Atlanta Hawks [1]11 Chicago Bulls [1]155 Cleveland Cavalies [1]171 Dallas Mavericks [1]187 Denver Nuggets [1]201 Detroit Pistons [2]16 Golden State Warriors [4]96 Houston Rockets [2]71, [2]74 Indiana Pacers [2]86 Los Angeles Clippers [2]199 Los Angeles Lakers [2]199 Miami Heat [3]47 New York Jets [3]187 New York Knicks [3]187 Philadelphia 76ers [4]12 Phoenix Suns [4]28 Seattle Super Sonics [4]111 Vancouver Grizzlies [4]181 National Football League (NFL) Atlanta Falcons [1]11 Chicago Bears [1]155 Cleveland Browns [1]162 Denver Broncos [1]201 Detroit Lions [2]8 Houston Oilers [2]72 Indianapolis Colts [2]86 Miami Dolphins [3]47 Minnesota Vikings [3]64 New Orleans Saints [3]167 New York Giants [3]187 Oakland Raiders [4]96 Philadelphia Eagles [4]12 San Francisco 49ers [4]96 Seattle Seahawks [4]111 Tennessee Titans [3]148 Washington Redskins [4]197
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Index National Hockey League (NHL) Atlanta Thrashers [1]11 Chicago Black Hawks [1]155 Colorado Avalanche [1]201 Dallas Stars [1]187 Detroit Red Wings [2]8, [2]10, [2]15 (photo) Los Angeles Kings [2]199 Mighty Ducks [2]199 Montreal Canadiens [3]95 New York Islanders [3]187 New York Rangers [3]187 Philadelphia Flyers [4]12 Phoenix Coyotes [4]28 San Jose Sharks [4]96 Vancouver Canucks [4]181 National Jewish Hospital [1]199 National Palace (Mexico City) [3]22 National Public Radio [4]197 National Theater of Germany (photo) [1]60 Native Americans Algonquin Indians [3]89 Cherokee Indians [1]5, [3]142 Chickasaw Indians [3]142 Coast Salish [4]175 Creek [1]5 Seattle [4]105 Sioux [3]58 Tupi Indians [4]50 NATO see North Atlantic Treaty Organization Navy Pier (Chicago, Illinois) (photo) [1]158 Nayong Pilipino [3]14 Nehru Centre (Mumbai, India) [3]110 Nero [4]71 Ness, Elliot [1]175 Netherlands [1]88 New Amsterdam (New York) [3]180 Newark International Airport [3]174 Newberry Library (Chicago, Illinois) [1]157 Newbury Street [1]75 New England Conservatory of Music [1]71, [1]75, [1]78 New Hampshire [1]66, [1]68 New Orleans, Louisiana [3]153–[3]172 New Orleans Brass [3]167 New Orleans Museum of Art [3]169 New Orleans Saints [3]167 New Orleans Zephyrs [3]167 New Rome see Istanbul, Turkey New South Wales, Australia [4]124 Sydney, Australia [4]117–[4]132
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
New York, New York [1]34, [1]66, [3]173–[3]193 New York Giants [3]187 New York Islanders [3]187 New York Jets [3]187 New York Knicks [3]187 New York Mets [3]187 New York Public Library [1]78 New York Rangers [3]187 New York Shakespeare Festival [3]188 New York Transit Museum [3]190 New York Yankees [3]187 Nezu Art Museum (Tokyo, Japan) [4]146 Ngong Race Course [3]129 Nicholas V, Pope [4]72 Nicknames Africa’s Manhattan (Johannesburg, South Africa) Arsenal of Democracy (Detroit, Michigan) Athens of the South (Nashville, Tennessee) Bay Area (San Francisco, California) Bayou City (Houston, Texas) Blues Capital of the World (Chicago, Illinois) Capital of Europe (Brussels, Belgium) Capital of Latin America (Miami, Florida) City of Big Shoulders (Chicago, Illinois) City of Gold (Johannesburg, South Africa) City of a Hundred Spires (Prague, Czech Republic) City of Lakes (Minneapolis, Minnesota) City in the Sun (Nairobi, Kenya) Cradle of the American Revolution (Boston, Massachusetts) Crescent City (New Orleans, Louisiana) Film City (Mumbai, India) First City in India (Mumbai, India) Fragrant Harbor (Hong Kong, China) Gathering Place (Honolulu, Hawaii) Grain Coast (Monrovia, Liberia) Hog Butcher to the World (Chicago, Illinois) La Horrible (Lima, Peru) Land of 10,000 Lakes (Minneapolis, Minnesota) Marvelous City (Rio de Janeiro, Brazil) Motor City (Detroit, Michigan) Motown (Detroit, Michigan) New Rome (Istanbul, Turkey) Paris of Latin America (Buenos Aires, Argentina) Peachtree (Atlanta, Georgia) Pearl of the Orient (Manila, Philippines) Queen City of the Plains (Denver, Colorado) Rice Bowl of Asia (Bangkok, Thailand) Twin Cities (Minneapolis, Minnesota)
225
Index Village of Wild Plums (Bangkok, Thailand) Wall Street of the Midwest (Chicago, Illinois) Windy City (Chicago, Illinois) Nicks, Stevie (Stephanie) [4]33 Nicollet Mall (Minneapolis) [3]60, [3]62 (photo) Nigeria, Lagos [2]139–[2]154 Nile River [1]115, [1]116, [1]120 (photo) Nobel Prize [2]19, [2]136, [2]153 Nob Hill (San Francisco, California) [4]86 Noguchi, Isamu [2]203 Noh drama [4]146 Nolan, Sidney [4]131 Norman Conquest [2]176 Norris, Frank [4]100 North America Atlanta, Georgia [1]1–[1]16 Boston, Massachusetts [1]65–[1]82 Chicago, Illinois [1]145–160 Cleveland, Ohio [1]161–[1]176 Dallas, Texas [1]177–[1]190 Denver, Colorado [1]191–[1]206 Detroit, Michigan [2]1–[2]20 Houston, Texas [2]57–[2]76 Indianapolis, Indiana [2]77–[2]91 Los Angeles, California [2]189–[2]204 Mexico City, Mexico [3]19–[3]36 Miami, Florida [3]37–[3]52 Minneapolis, Minnesota [3]53–[3]68 Montréal, Québec [3]83–[3]98 Nashville, Tennessee [3]137–[3]152 New Orleans, Louisiana [3]153–[3]172 New York, New York [3]173–[3]193 Philadelphia, Pennsylvania [4]1–[4]18 Phoenix, Arizona [4]19–[4]34 San Francisco, California [4]85–100 Seattle, Washington [4]101–[4]116 Toronto, Ontario [4]151–[4]167 Vancouver, British Columbia [4]169–[4]185 Washinton, D.C. [4]187–[4]204 North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO) [1]83, [1]86, [1]88, [2]102 Nostradamus [3]210 Notre Dame Cathedral (Paris, France) [3]202 (photo), [3]205, [3]209 Nyayo Stadium [3]129
O Oahu, Honolulu, Hawaii [2]39, [2]44 (photo), [2]49 Oakland Athletics (“Oakland A’s”) [4]96
226
Oakland Raiders [4]96 Oba Adeyinka Oyekan II [2]154 Oba of Lagos monument [2]143 Oceania, Sydney, Austrialia [4]117–[4]132 Odinga, Jaramogi Oginga [3]134 Oh, Sadaharu [4]149 O’Hare International Airport (Chicago, Illinois) [1]146 Ohio River [2]82 Old Bangkok [1]23 “Old Ironsides” see USS Constitution Old Montreal [3]88, [3]92 (photo) Old North Church [1]79 Old Royal City (Bangkok, Thailand) [1]22 Old South Meeting House [1]79 Old Woman's Island [3]105 Oliver, Joseph “King” [3]171 Olmedo, Dolores Museum [3]34 Olmsted, Frederick Law [1]74, [1]81, [2]16, [3]95, [3]188, [3]192, [4]194 Olmsted, Frederick Law Jr. [4]111 Olmsted, John Charles [4]111 Olympic Games [1]55 Atlanta, Georgia (1996) [1]1, [1]8 Mexico City, Mexico [3]28 Montréal, Québec [3]95 Sydney, Australia [4]117, [4]123, [4]125 Tokyo, Japan [4]140 Olympic Mountains [4]101 Olympic Stadium (Montréal, Québec) [3]95 Onassis, Jacqueline Kennedy [3]192 O’Neill, Eugene [3]192 Onikan National Museum [2] 152, [2]153 Ontario, Toronto [4]151–[4]167 Opium War [1]39, [1]40, [2]27 Opryland Theme Park [3]144 Orly Airport [3]196 Ormandy, Eugene [3]65, [4]13 Orozco, José Clemente [3]34, [3]36 Ortega, José [4]90 Osman [2]100 Osofisan, Femi [2]153 Oswald, Lee Harvey [1]183 Otero, Alejandro [1]143 Ottawa River [3]83 Ottoman Empire [1]120, [2]93, [2]94, [2]100, [2]101, [2]113 Oval Maidan [3]104 Owens, Jesse [1]175
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Index P Pacific Northwest see Seattle, Washington Pacific Ocean [2]40, [2]189, [4]85, [4]169 Pacific Space Centre [4]183 Paganini, Niccolo [4]84 Pakenham, General Sir Edward [3]162 Palace of Auburn Hills [2]15, [2]16 Palace of Fine Arts (Mexico City) [3]33, [3]34 Palace Museum [1]46 Palace of Justice [1]91 Palacio de Gobiernor (photo) [2]163 Palais des Beaux-Arts [1]92 (photo), [1]93 Palestinian Arab Folklore Centre [2]119 Palestinian Authority [2]108 Palos Verdes Peninsula [2]193 Panama Canal, designer of [3]211 Panama-Pacific International Exposition [4]91 Pan American Games [2]87 Pantheon (Paris, France) [3]210 Pantheon (Rome, Italy) [4]67, [4]81 (photo) Papp, Joseph [3]188 Paraguay [1]100 Parc de Tervuren [1]93 Pardo de Taverna, Trinidad [3]16 Paris, France [3]195–[3]212 Paris of Latin America see Buenos Aires Parker, Bonnie [1]190 Parker, Dorothy [3]192 Parks Atlanta, Georgia [1]11 Bangkok, Thailand [1]26 Buenos Aires, Argentina [1]111 Cairo, Egypt [1]125 Chicago, Illinois [1]153 Cleveland, Ohio [1]172 Dallas, Texas [1]187 Detroit, Michigan [2]16 Hong Kong [2]33 Honolulu, Hawaii [2]52 Houston, Texas [2]60, [2]64 Indianapolis, Indiana [2]87 Istanbul, Turkey [2]103 Jerusalem, Israel [2]118 Johannesburg, South Africa [2]134 London, England [2]182 Los Angeles, California [2]200 Madrid, Spain [2]215 Manila, Philippines [3]13 Mexico City [3]33
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Miami, Florida [3]48 Montréal, Québec [3]95 Mumbai, India [3]110 Nairobi National Park [3]130 Nashville, Tennessee [3]148 New Orleans, Louisiana [3]167 New York, New York [3]188 Paris, France [3]207 Philadelphia, Pennsylvania [4]12 Rome, Italy [4]79 San Francisco, California [4]96 Seattle, Washington [4]111 Sydney, Australia [4]128 Tokyo, Japan [4]145 Washington, D.C. [4]198 Parks, Rosa [2]2 Park Street Church [1]79 Parramatta River [4]121 Parsi Towers of Silence [3]102, [3]111 Parthenon (Nashville, Tennessee) [3]146, [3]147, [3]148 Pasha, Ismail [1]120 Pasteur Institute [1]29 Pauley, Jane [2]90 Paul Revere Monument (photo) [1]80 Paul VI [4]84 Payutto, Venerable P. A. [1]31 Paz, Octavio [3]35 Peachtree see Atlanta, Georgia Pearl, Minnie [3]152 Pearl Harbor [2]42, [2]47, [2]48 (photo), [2]53 Pearl of the Orient see Manila, Philippines Pedro I [4]56 Pedro II [4]56 Pei, I.M. [1]78, [3]208, [4]200 Pei Hai Park [1]44, [1]46 Peking see Beijing, China Pele, goddess of the volcano [2]42 Penn, William [4]2, [4]6, [4]17 Penn Relays [4]12 Pennsylvania, Philadelphia [4]1–[4]18 People Mover (Detroit, Michigan) [2]4, [2]10 People’s Republic of China see China People’s University of China [1]43 Pepsi Center (Denver, Colorado) [1]196, [1]201 Pera Plateau [2]97 Perón, Eva [1]104, [1]113 Perón, Juan Domingo [1]98, [1]113 Peru, Lima [2]155–[2]168 Peter’s Colony see Dallas, Texas
227
Index Petrochemical industry [1]183, [2]66 Pewabic Pottery [2]14 Pheroze Shah Mehta Gardens [3]110 Philadelphia, Pennsylvania [4]1–[4]18 Philip II [1]88, [2]205 Philip the Bold [1]87 Philippe Auguste, King [3]201 Phillip, Arthur [4]122 Phillippe, duc d’Orleans [3]161 Philippine-American War [3]8 Philippine Basketball Association (PBA) [3]12 Philippine Museum of Ethnology [3]14 Philippine Philharmonic Orchestra [3]13 Philippines, Manila [3]1–[3]17 Phoenix (symbol of Atlanta, Georgia) [1]6 Phoenix, Arizona [4]19–[4]34 Piaf, Edith [3]211 Picasso, Pablo [2]216 Pickford, Mary [2]204 Pidgin [2]43 Piecuch, Martin [4]199 Pike’s Peak [1]197, [1]198 Pinzón, Vicente Yáñez [4]49 Pinzón, Yáñez [4]54 Pioneer Arizona Living History Museum [4]31 Pioneer Square (Seattle, Washington) [4]104 Pitot House Museum [3]169 Pizarro, Francisco [2]160, [2]161 (photo), [2]168 Planck, Max [1]62 Plata, Teodoro [3]16 Plaza Bolivar (photo) [1]143 Plaza de Mayo [1]98, [1]101, [1]103, [1]104 Plaza of Three Cultures (Mexico City) [3]31 Plotkin Judaica Museum (Phoenix, Arizona) [4]31 Plymouth Rock [1]71 Poe, Edgar Allan [4]15, [4]17 Poitier, Sidney [3]52 Po Lin Monastery [2]35 Polka Hall of Fame (Cleveland, Ohio) [1]172 Polo [3]130 Pompidou Center [3]209 Pontchartrain, Lake [3]153, [3]161 Pope, Alexander [2]186 Pope John Paul II [2]6 Port Jackson [4]117, [4]118 Portman, John C. [1]15 Portugal [1]92 Post Oak Galleria (photo) [2]74 Potomac River [4]187
228
Potsdam [1]60 Potsdamer Platz [1]52 Potter, Beatrix [4]14 Powerboat racing [2]5 Prado Museum [2]216 Prague Castle [4]39 Prague, Czech Republic [4]35–[4]48 Preacher Saint Gorik [1]87 Prenzlauer Berg [1]58 Preservation Hall (New Orleans) [3]168 Prince [3]68 Prince Rogers Nelson [3]68 Prince of Wales Museum (Mumbai, India) [3]111 Prithvi Theater (Mumbai, India) [3]110 Pro Football Hall of Fame (Cleveland, Ohio) [1]174 Pro Player Stadium [3]47 Providence [1]68, [1]70 Prudential Center [1]70, [1]72 Puccini, Giacomo [4]84 Puerto Madero (photo) [1]110 Puget Sound [4]101 Puig, Manuel [1]113 Punchbowl Crater [2]42, [2]53 Punic Wars [4]71 Purcell, Henry [2]186 Pyramids [1]117
Q Qing Dynasty [1]39, [1]42 Qinghua University [1]43 Québec, Montréal [3]83–[3]98 Québec Liberation Front (FLQ) [3]90 Québecois [3]87 Queen City of the Plains see Denver, Colorado Queen Elisabeth International Music Competition [1]93 Queen Elizabeth Park [4]182 Queen Elizabeth Stadium [2]33 Queen Emma Summer Palace [2]42, [2]53 Queens Elizabeth I [2]169, [2]177, [2]186 Elizabeth II [2]187 Emma [2]54 Lili’uokalani [2]46, [2]49, [2]54 Victoria [2]187 Queens see New York, New York Quezon City, Philippines [3]6
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Index R Rackham, Arthur [4]14 Radio City Music Hall [3]177, [3]179 Rafael Larco Herrera Museum [2]158, [2]167 Ralston, Alexander [2]82 Rama I, King [1]23, [1]30 Rama II [1]24 Rama II, King [1]23 Rama III [1]24 Rama V, King [1]23 Rama IX, King [1]28 Ramiro II of León, King [2]211 Raphael [4]72, [4]84 Rashtrakuta dynasty [3]104 RCA Dome [2]86, [2]87(photo) Reasoner, Harry [3]68 Redemption [3]78 Red Sea [1]116 Reese, Della [2]19 Reichstag [1]50, [1]52, [1]61 Reid, Bill [4]184 Reina Sofía [2]216 Reischauer, Edwin O. [4]148 Renaissance Center (Detroit, Michigan) [2]10 Reno, Janet [3]52 Renoir, Pierre Auguste [3]211 Rese, Bishop Frederick [2]5 Revere, Paul [1]65, [1]79, [1]81 Reverón, Armando [1]143 Revolutionary War, U.S. [3]142, [3]180, [4]7 Reynolds, Sir Joshua [2]186 Rhode Island [1]66, [1]68 Riachuelo River [1]104, [1]108 Rice, Anne [3]171 Rice Bowl of Asia see Bangkok, Thailand Rift Valley [2]115, [3]125 Riis, Jacob [3]192 Riley, James Whitcomb [2]80, [2]88, [2]90 Rio de Janeiro, Brazil [4]49–[4]62 Río de la Plata [1]100, [1]101, [1]103 Río Riachuelo [1]105 Rivera, Diego [2]18, [3]34, [3]35 Rivers Anacostia River [4]187 Chao Phraya River [1]17, [1]18, [1]23, [1]29 Chattahoochee River [1]12 Cumberland River [3]137, [3]138, [3]145 Cuyahoga River [1]161 Delaware River [4]1
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Detroit River [2]1, [2]6, [2]7, [2]12 East River [3]176 Fraser River[4]169, [4]170 Georges River [4]121 Guiare River [1]138 Hudson River [3]176 Jordan River [2]107 Manzanares Rive [2]210 Mesurado River [3]69 Miami River [3]37 Minnesota River [3]53 Mississippi River [3]53, [3]168 Nile River [1]115, [1]116 Ohio River [2]82 Ottawa River [3]83 Parramatta River [4]121 Potomac River [4]187 Riachuelo Rive [1]104, [1]108 Río de la Plata [1]97, [1]100, [1]101, [1]103 Río Riachuelo [1]105 Saint Lawrence River [3]83, [3]93, [3]95 Saint Paul River [3]77 Scheldt River [1]89 Schuykill Rivers [4]1 Seine River [3]207, [3]209 Senne River [1]83, [1]87 South Platte River [1]191, [1]196 Spree River [1]49 Sumida River [4]140 Thames River [2]169, [2]172 Tiber River [4]79 Trinity River [1]177, [1]182 Vltava River [4]39 West Bank (Jordan River) [2]107 White River [2]77, [2]85 Zhu Jiang (Pearl River) [2]30 Rizal, Jose [3]13, [3]14 Rizal Memorial Stadium (Manila, Philippines) [3]12 Robbins, Jerome [3]189 Robbins, Tom [4]115 Robert F. Kennedy Stadium [4]197 Roberts, Charles G. D. [4]166 Roberts, Joseph Jenkins [3]81 Robertson, James [3]142 Robeson, Paula [3]152 Robinson, William “Smokey” [2]19 Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum (Cleveland, Ohio) [1]161, [1]172, [1]173 Rockefeller, John D. [1]154, [1]167, [1]175, [3]192
229
Index Rockefeller, Nelson [3]192 Rockefeller Center [3]179, [3]182 Rockefeller Museum [2]119 Rocky Mountains [1]191, [1]196 (photo), [1]197, [1]198 Rodeo Drive [2]197, [2]198 (photo) Rodeos [1]187, [4]28, [4]32 Rodgers, John [2]40 Rodin, Auguste [2]18, [3]209 Rodríguez Suárez, Juan [1]135 Roissey-Charles de Gaulle airport [3]196 Roman Empire [2]94, [4]72 Roma soccer team [4]78 Rome, Italy [4]63–[4]84 Roosevelt, Franklin D. [2]47 Rose, Bella [2]15 Rosetta Stone, discoverer of [3]211 Ross, Betsy [4]17 Ross, Diana [2]19 Rossini, Gioacchino [4]84 Royal Albert Hall [2]184 Royal Ballet Company of Brussels [1]93 Royal Botanic Gardens [4]121, [4]128 Royal Canadian Mounted Police [4]177 Royal Flemish Theater [1]93 Royal Hawaiian Band [2]52 Royal Library of Brussels [1]94 Royal National Theatre [2]183 Royal Palace [1]88 Royal Square [1]86 Rubin Academy of Music [2]116 Ruby, Jack [1]183 Rudolph, Wilma [2]90, [3]152 Rudolph II [4]40 Rugby [2]33, [2]133, [2]182, [3]130 [4]127 Ruiz, Lorenzo [3]15 Rush, Barbara [1]205 Rushdie, Salman [3]113 Russian Hill (San Francisco, California) [4]86 Ruth, Babe [3]187 Ryman Auditorium [3]150
S Sablon Square [1]86, [1]94 Sacré Coeur (basilica) [3]201 Sadler’s Wells Theatre [2]184 Safeco Field [4]111 Saint Alphonsus Art and Culture Museum [3]169 Saint Ambrose [4]83 Saint Anthony of Padua [4]83
230
Saint Augustine [4]83 Saint Benedict [4]83 Saint Clare of Assisi [4]83 Saint Exupéry, Antoine de [3]211 Saint Francis of Assisi [4]83 Saint-Gilles [1]86 Saint-Gorik [1]87 Saint James’s Park [2]175, [2]182 Saint-Josse-Ten-Noode [1]86 Saint Lawrence River [3]83, [3]93, [3]95 Saint Mark [4]83 Saint Paul, Minnesota [3]53 Saint Paul River [3]77 Saint Peter’s Basilica [4]63 Saint Rose of Lima [2]167 Saint Vitus Cathedral [4]41 Saints Hall of Fame [3]169 Saladin [1]119 Salonen, Esa-Pekka [2]201 Salsette Island [3]100 Sam Houston Park [2]60 Samphran Elephant Grounds & Zoo [1]28 San Andreas fault [2]197, [4]94 San Augustin Museum [3]14 Sandburg, Carl [1]145 San Francisco, California [4]85–[4]100 San Francisco Bay [4]85, [4]94 San Francisco 49ers [4]96 San Francisco Giants [4]96 San Francisco Marathon [4]96 San Gabriel Mountains [2]189 Sanjay Gandhi National Park [3]110 San Jose Sharks [4]96 San Martin Square (Lima, Peru) [2]160 Santa Anna [2]64, [2]65 Santa Monica Mountains [2]189 Santiago Bernabéu Stadium (Madrid, Spain) [2]215 Santiago de León de Caracas [1]135 Santos Dumont airport [4]50 Saqqara pyramid [1]117 Sargent, John Singer [1]78 Sartre, Jean-Paul [3]211 Sassoon, Sir David [3]113 Satavahna dynasty [3]104 Sawallisch, Wolfgang [4]13 Scheldt River [1]89 Schloss Bellevue [1]50 Schoenheimer, Rudolf [1]62 Scholem, Gershom [2]121
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Index Schroder, Louise [1]62 Schulz, Charles [3]68 Schuster, Joe [1]175 Schuylkill River [4]11 Scollay Square [1]70, [1]72 Scott, George C. [2]19 Scott, William Fred [1]12 Sea of Galilee [2]108 Sealife Park (photo) [2]50 Sealth, Chief of the Suquamish Indians [4]105 Sea of Marmara [2]93 Seaquarium (Miami, Florida) [3]50 Seattle-Tacoma International Airport, [4]102 Seattle, Washington [4]101–[4]116 Seattle Art Museum [4]113 Seattle International Film Festival [4]113 Seattle Mariners [4]111 Seattle Super Sonics [4]111 Seattle Thunderbirds Hockey Club [4]111 Seger, Bob [2]19 Seine River [3]207, [3]209 Seinfeld, Jerry [3]192 Selim I [1]120 Selleck, Tom [2]19 Seminole Indians [3]42 Senne River [1]83, [1]87 Sensoji Temple [4]137 Sevareid, Eric [3]68 Seven Years’ War [3]7 Severus, Septimus [2]98 Shaka dynasty [3]104 Shakespeare, William [1]46, [2]169, [2]182, [2]186 Shanghai [1]34, [1]41 Shawmut Peninsula [1]74 Shea Stadium [3]187 Shepherd, Alexander “Boss” [4]193 Sherman, William Tecumseh [1]6 Shijiazhuang [1]34 Shilts, Randy [4]100 Shining Path [2]163 Shitta-Bey Mosque [2]153 Shiva [3]111 Shiv Sena [3]106 Shore, Dinah [3]152 Shouson Theater (photo) [2]34 Shrine of the Book (photo) [2]115 Siam see Thailand Siegel, Jerry [1]175 Silva House [4]31
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Silverdome [2]10 Silver mining [1]191, [1]197 Simmons College [1]75 Simon, Neil [3]192 Simpson, Alan K. [1]205 Simpson, O. J. [2]196 Sinai Peninsula [1]116 Sinan, Mimar [2]101, [2]106 Singer, Isaac Bashevis [3]51 Sioux Indians [3]58 Siqueiros, David Alfaro [3]34, [3]36 Sirikit, Queen [1]31 Six Day War [2]107, [2]110, [2]114, [2]119 Six Flags Over Texas [1]188 Skotnes, Cecil [2]137 Slatkin, Leonard [2]203 Slave trade [2]140, [4]55 Smith, Goldwin [4]166 Smithson, James [4]203 Snake Farm (Nairobi, Kenya) [3]132 Snyder, Duke [2]203 Soares Filho, Oscar Niemeyer [4]62 Soccer [1]187, [2]182 Detroit, Michigan [2]10 Jerusalem, Israel [2]117 Johannesburg, South Africa [2]134 Mathare United [3]129 Mexico City, Mexico [3]33 Miami, Florida [3]48 Monrovia, Liberia [3]79 Nairobi, Kenya [3]129 Paris, France [3]206 Rome, Italy [4]78 Vancouver 86ers [4]181 Society for the Conservation of Nature of Liberia (SCNL) [3]77 SoHo neighborhood (New York) [3]179 Soldier Field (Chicago, Illinois) [1]155 Soldiers’ and Sailors’ Monument (Indianapolis) [2]78, [2]82 (photo) Solomon, King [2]112 Sorbonne (University of Paris) [3]210 Sousa, John Philip [4]203 South Africa Breweries Museum [2]136 South Africa, Johannesburg [2]123–[2]138 South Africa Museum of Military History [2]136 South African Broadcasting Corporation (SABC) [2]133 South African Stock Exchange [2]131 South African Transport Museum [2]136
231
Index South America Buenos Aires, Argentina [1]97–[1]114 Caracas, Venezuela [1]131–[1]144 Lima, Peru [2]155–[2]168 Rio de Janeiro, Brazil [4]49–[4]62 South Platte River [1]191, [1]196 South Station [1]66 Southern Methodist University [1]181 Soviet Union [1]56 Soweto, South Africa [2]127 Soyinka, Wole [2]153 Space Center Houston [2]60, [2]63 Space Museum (Hong Kong) [2]35 Space Needle [4]107 (photo) Spain, Madrid [2]205–[2]217 Sphinx [1]117 Spice Bazaar (photo) [2]102 Spree River [1]50, [1]52, [1]54, [1]56, [1]57, [1]61 Spriggs-Payne Airfield [3]70, [3]72 Stadio Olimpico [4]78 Stanford, Leland [4]100 Stanley Cup [1]187, [1]201, [2]8, [2]10, [2]15 Stanley Park (Vancouver) [4]173, [4]181 Staples Center [2]199 Statue of Liberty (photo) [3]181 Steinbrenner, George [3]192 Sterkfontein Caves (Johannesburg, South Africa) [2]134 Stevens, John L. [2]46 Stewart Museum (Montréal, Québec) [3]97 Stokes, Carl B. [1]175 Stokowski, Leopold [4]13 Strake, George [2]62 Stratton, Mary Chase Perry [2]14 Strauss, Annette [1]190 Strawberry, Darryl [2]203 Stuart, Gilbert [1]78 Suez Canal [1]116, [1]122, [3]105 Suffolk Downs [1]77 Sugar Loaf [4]61 Sugar plantations (photo) [2]46 Suikerbosrand Nature Reserve [2]134 Sukhumvit, Thailand [1]22 Sulayman, Rajah [3]7 Suleyman the Magnificent [2]101, [2]113 Sullivan, Arthur [2]187 Sulpicius Galba [4]71 Sultan of Zanzibar [3]121 Sumida River [4]140 Summer Palace [1]36, [1]39, [1]40 (photo), [1]44
232
Sumo wrestling [4]144 Sung Dynasty Wax Museum [2]35 Sun Yat-sen [2]35 Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall [1]44 Super Bowl [1]201, [1]187 Suquamish Indians [4]105 Surat (Mumbai, India) [3]105 Svoboda, Ludwik [4]41 Swedish American Museum Center [1]158 Sydney, Australia [4]117–[4]132 Sydney Football Stadium [4]127 Sydney Harbour Bridge [4]118 Sydney Opera House [4]129, [4]130 (photo) Sydney Swans [4]127 Szell, George [1]175
T Taft, Seth [1]175 Taft, William Howard [1]175, [4]194 Taihang mountains [1]33 Tai Mo Shan [2]30 Taj Mahal Hotel [3]104, [3]108 Tamayo, Rufino Museum [3]34 Tambo, Oliver [2]137 Tammany Hall [3]181 Tan, Amy [4]100 Tanggu [1]34 Tanglewood Festival [1]78 Tangshan [1]34 Tanizaki, Junichiro [4]148 Tarkington, Booth [2]90 Tata, J. N. [3]113 Taylor, Charles [3]75, [3]76, [3]81 Teatro Colón [1]106, [1]111 Teddy Stadium (Jerusalem, Israel) [2]117 Tegel airport [1]50 Tel Aviv, Israel [2]108 Telegraph Hill (San Francisco, California) [4]86 Teltow Canal [1]50 Tendulkar, Sachin [3]113 Tennessee Centennial Exposition [3]143 Tennessee, Nashville [3]137–[3]152 Tennessee State Museum [3]151 Tennessee Titans [3]148 Tennessee Valley Authority [3]143 Tennis [2]133 New York, New York [3]188 Paris, France [3]206 Rome, Italy [4]78
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Index Terminus see Atlanta, Georgia Texas Dallas [1]177–[1]190 Houston [2]57–[2]76 Texas Instruments [1]184 Texas Rangers [1]185, [1]187 Texas School Book Depository [1]183, [1]188 Texicans [2]64 Thackeray, Bal [3]106 Thackeray, William Makepeace [2]186 Thailand, Bangkok [1]17–[1]32 Thames River [2]169, [2]172 Thana Creek Bridge [3]100 Thatcher, Margaret [2]178, [2]187 Theaters Atlanta, Georgia [1]5, [1]12 Buenos Aires, Argentina [1]106 Cairo, Egypt [1]126 Chicago, Illinois [1]156 Cleveland, Ohio [1]172 Dallas, Texas [1]188 Denver, Colorado [1]202, [1]203 Detroit, Michigan [2]17 Hong Kong, China [2]33 Honolulu, Hawaii [2]52 Jerusalem, Israel [2]119 Johannesburg, South Africa [2]135 Los Angeles, California [2]201 Miami, Florida [3]49 Minneapolis, Minnesota [3]65 Montréal, Québec [3]96 Mumbai, India [3]110 Nairobi, Kenya [3]131 Nashville, Tennessee [3]149 New Orleans, Louisiana [3]169 New York, New York [3]188 Phoenix, Arizona [4]30 Prague, Czech Republic [4]46 Rome, Italy [4]80 San Francisco, California [4]98 Seattle, Washington [4]112 Tokyo, Japan [4]146 Vancouver, British Columbia [4]182 Washington, D.C. [4]199 Theodosius [2]98 Theodosius II [2]103 Thiong‘o, Ngugi wa [3]134 Thirty Years War [4]41 Thomas, Michael Tilson [4]97
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Thompson, Jim [1]31 Thompson, Lea [3]68 Thon Buri, Thailand [1]23 Thoreau, Henry David [1]71 3Com Park [4]96 Thunderbirds Hockey Club [4]111 Tiananmen Square [1]36, [1]38 (photo), [1]39, [1]42, [1]44, [1]46 Tiberius [4]71 Tiber River [4]79 Tibet [1]34 Tientsin [1]41 Tiergarten [1]50, [1]52, [1]60 Tierra del Fuego [1]100 Tiger Stadium [2]7, [2]16 Times Square (New York) [3]177, [3]189 (photo) Tintoretto [4]84 Tinubu, Madam Efunroye [2]154 Tokyo, Japan [4]133–[4]150 Tokyo Bay [4]134 Tokyo Dome [4]144, [4]146 Tokyo Giants [4]144 Tokyo Metropolis [4]141 Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum [4]146 Tokyo National Museum [4]146 Tolbert, William R. [3]75 Tomonaga, Shinichiro [4]148 Topkapi Palace (photo) [2]100 Toronto, Ontario, Canada [4]151–[4]167 Toscanini, Arturo [4]84 Tour de France [3]206 Tower of David [2]113 Tower of Pisa [1]93 Towers of Silence [3]103 Track and field [3]129 Trafalgar Square [2]183 Trail of Tears [1]5 Transvaal [2]128 Trask, Haunani-Kay [2]47 Travis, William B. [2]64 Treaty of Lausanne [2]102 Treaty of Paris [3]89 Treaty of Tordesillas (Rio de Janeiro, Brazil) [4]54 Trees Atlanta [1]8 Tren de la Costa (photo) [1]109 Trevi Fountain (Rome, Italy) [4]79 Trinity River [1]177, [1]182 Triumphal Arch [1]86 Trudeau, Pierre Elliot [3]90, [3]98
233
Index Truffaut, François [3]211 Tsang, Daniel C. [2]36 Tsavo National Park [3]132 Tsing Ma Bridge [2]22 Tsui, Kitty [2]37 Tube see London Underground Tufts University [1]75 Tuilerie Gardens (Paris, France) [3]204 Tuileries [3]207 Túpac Amaru Revolutionary Movement (MRTA) [2]163 Tupi Indians [4]50 Turkey [1]92 Istanbul [2]93–[2]106 Turner, J. M. W. [2]89 Turner, Joseph [2]186 Turner, Robert Edward “Ted” [1]15 Turner, Ted [1]8 Turner Field [1]11 Tuttle, Julia Sturdivant [3]42 Tutu, Desmond [2]137 TVA see Tennessee Valley Authority Twin Cities see Minneapolis, Minnesota
U Uhry, Alfred [1]15 Uhuru Park [3]130 Ukrainian National Museum (Chicago, Illinois) [1]158 Underground Atlanta [1]5, [1]9 Underground Railroad [1]69, [1]79, [2]7 Union Square (New York) [3]177 United Kingdom, London, England [2]169–[2]188 United Nations [1]90, [3]183 (photo) United Provinces of Río de la Plata [1]106 United States of America [1]56, [1]100 Atlanta, Georgia [1]1–[1]16 Boston, Massachusetts [1]65–[1]82 Chicago, Illinois [1]145–160 Cleveland, Ohio [1]161–[1]176 Dallas, Texas [1]177–[1]190, [1]191–[1]206 Denver, Colorado [1]191–[1]206 Detroit, Michigan [2]1–[2]20 Honolulu, Hawaii [2]39–[2]55 Houston, Texas [2]57–[2]76 Indianapolis, Indiana [2]77–[2]91 Los Angeles, California [2]189–[2]204 Miami, Florida [3]37–[3]52 Minneapolis, Minnesota [3]53–[3]68 Nashville, Tennessee [3]137–[3]152 New Orleans, Louisiana [3]153–[3]172
234
New York, New York [3]173–[3]193 Philadelphia, Pennsylvania [4]1–[4]18 Phoenix, Arizona [4]19–[4]34 San Francisco, California [4]85–[4]100 Seattle, Washington [4]101–[4]116 Washington, D.C. [4]187–[4]204 Universal Studios (Los Angeles, California) [2]193 Universities Atlanta, Georgia [1]10 Boston, Massachusetts [1]75 Berlin, Germany [1]59] Buenos Aires, Argentina [1]109 Cairo, Egypt [1]118, [1]124 Caracas, Venezuela [1]136, [1]140, [1]141, [1]142 Chicago, Illinois [1]154 Cleveland, Ohio [1]170, [1]173 Denver, Colorado [1]199 Detroit, Michigan [2]11, [2]14 Hong Kong, China [2]32, [2]34 Honolulu, Hawaii [2]50 Indianapolis, Indiana [2]85 Istanbul, Turkey [2]103 Jerusalem, Israel [2]116 Johannesburg, South Africa [2]132 Lima, Peru [2]165 London, England [2]181 Los Angeles, California [2]198 Madrid, Spain [2]215 Manila, Philippines [3]11 Mexico City, Mexico [3]32 Miami, Florida [3]46 Minneapolis, Minnesota [3]65 Monrovia, Liberia [3]78 Montréal, Québec [3]94 Mumbai, India [3]109 Nairobi, Kenya [3]128 Nashville, Tennessee [3]143, [3]146 New Orleans, Louisiana [3]166 New York, New York [3]185 Paris, France [3]205 Philadelphia, Pennsylvania [4]5 Rio de Janeiro, Brazil [4]58 Rome, Italy [4]77 San Francisco, California [4]95 Seattle, Washington [4]110 Tokyo, Japan [4]143 Vancouver, British Columbia [4]180 Washington, D.C. [4]196 Uruguay [1]100
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Index USS Arizona [2]42, [2]47 USS Constitution (photo) [1]72
von Humboldt, Karl Wilhelm [1]62 Vonnegut, Jr., Kurt [2]90
V
W
Vaclav II [4]40 Vancouver, British Columbia [4]169–[4]185 Vancouver Aquarium [4]182 Vancouver Art Gallery [4]183 Vancouver Canucks [4]181 Vancouver 86ers [4]181 Vancouver Grizzlies [4]181 Vancouver International Airport [4]172 Vancouver Maritime Museum [4]182 Vancouver Museum [4]183 Vancouver, George [4]105, [4]169, [4]176 Van Damme, Jean-Claude [1]95 Vanderbilt, Cornelius [3]192 Van Sweringen brothers (Cleveland, Ohio) [1]166 Vatican [4]73, [4]81 Vaux, Calvert [3]188 Venezuela, Caracas [1]131–[1]144 Venezuela, National Capital of (photo) [1]137 Venturi, Robert [4]113 Verdi, Giuseppe [4]84 Versace, Gianni [3]43, [4]84 Versailles palace [3]207, [3]210 Versailles Treaty [1]39 Victor Horta House [1]94 Victoria, Queen [2]187 Victoria and Albert [2]185 Victoria Peak [2]21, [2]24, [2]30 Victoria Station (photo) [3]102 Victoria Terminus [3]103 Victory Field [2]86 Vietnam War [1]23, [4]91 Villa, Ernesto “Pancho” [3]28 Village of Wild Plums see Bangkok Villa-Lobos, Heitor [4]62 Villanueva, Carlos Raúl [1]142 Villella, Edward [3]49, [3]52 Ville Marie [3]83, [3]88, [3]89 Virgil [4]84 Vittorio Emanuel of Savor [4]72 Vltava River [4]39 Voinovich, George [1]168 Volcanoes [2]42, [3]19 Volleyball [4]59 von Bismarck, Otto [1]54 von Hohenzollern, Fredrich [1]54
Wadi Qelt [2]118 Waikiki Beach [2]42, [2]43, [2]53 (photo) Walloon Province [1]88 Wall Street of the Midwest see Chicago, Illinois Wangfujing Market Street [1]42 Wankhede Stadium (Mumbai, India) [3]110 War of 1812 [1]72 Detroit, Michigan [2]7 Nashville, Tennessee [3]143 New Orleans, Louisiana [3]161 Warhol, Andy [3]192 War of Independence (Spain) [2]212 War Memorial Plaza [3]140 War of the Pacific [2]162 Warren, Earl [1]183 Washington, District of Columbia [4]187–[4]204 Washington Dulles International Airport [4]188 Washington Monument (photo) [4]192 Washington National Airport [4]188 Washington Redskins [4]197 Washington, George [1]78, [2]7, [4]193 Washington, Harold, Library Center [1]157 Washington, Seattle [4]101–[4]116 Wat Arun [1]23 Watermael-Boitsfort [1]86 Wat Pho [1]23, [1]29, [1]30 Wat Phra Kaeo [1]23, [1]29, [1]30 Wat Traimitr [1]30 Wat Yan Nawa [1]23 Wayne County Metropolitan Airport [2]2 Weah, George [3]81 Webber, Chris [2]16 Weeks Air Museum (Miami, Florida) [3]49 Weir, Peter [4]131 Wenceslas Square (Prague, Czech Republic) [4]42 West Africa (Lagos, Nigeria) [2]139 West Bank (Jordan River) [2]107 Western Ghats [3]108, [3]111 Western Reserve Historical Society (Cleveland, Ohio) [1]174 Western Wall, Jewish Temple [2]110 West Germany see Germany Westminster Abbey [2]175 White, Michael R. [1]168 White, Patrick [4]131
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
235
Index White House [4]191, [4]202 (photo) Whiteley, Brett [4]131 Whiteman, Paul [1]205 White River [2]77, [2]85, [2]86 White Rock Lake (Dallas, Texas) [1]188 Whitman, Walt [4]203 Wilhelm I [1]54 Wilkins, Roy [3]68 William, Duke of Normandy [2]176 William of Orange [1]88 William P. Hobby Airport [2]58 William the Conqueror [2]169 Williams, Robin [2]19 Williams, Ted [1]81 Williamson, David [4]131 Willingdon Sports Club [3]110 Windsor, Ontario [2]6 Windsor Tunnel [2]8 Windy City see Chicago, Illinois Winfrey, Oprah [1]155 Winningham, Mare [4]33 Wintergarten [1]61 Witwatersrand, South Africa [2]128 Wohl Rose Garden [2]118 Woluwe-St.-Lambert [1]86 Woluwe-St.-Pierre [1]86 Women’s National Basketball Association (WNBA) Cleveland Rockers [1]171 Detroit Shock [2]16 Wood, Gar [2]5 Woodruff, Robert W. [1]15 Woolf, Virginia [2]187 Workers’ Museum [2]136 Works Progress Administration (WPA) [3]143 World Series [2]8 World Trade Center [1]79, [3]176, [3]108 World War I [1]39, [1]55, [1]88 Buenos Aires, Argentina [1]106 Cairo, Egypt [1]121 Istanbul, Turkey [2]101 Jerusalem, Isael [2]113 New York, New York [3]181 Philadelphia, Pennsylvania [4]8 Seattle, Washington [4]107 World War II [1]39, [1]49, [1]55, [1]56, [1]60, [1]65, [1]71, [1]73, [1]88 Bangkok, Thailand [1]23 Buenos Aires, Argentina [1]106
236
Cairo, Egypt [1]121 Dallas, Texas [1]184 Denver, Colorado [1]197 Hong Kong, China [2]27 Honolulu, Hawaii [2]47 Indianapolis, Indiana [2]83 Istanbul, Turkey [2]102 Jerusalem, Israel [2]111 Johannesburg, South Africa [2]129 Lima, Peru [2]163 London, England [2]169 Los Angeles, California [2]195 Madrid, Spain [2]208, [2]209, [2]210 Manila, Philippines [3]5 Mexico City, Mexico [3]28 Miami, Florida [3]43 Minneapolis, Minnesota [3]59 Monrovia, Liberia [3]74 Montréal, Québec [3]91 Nashville, Tennessee [3]143 New York, New York [3]182 Paris, France [3]198, [3]203 Philadelphia, Pennsylvania [4]8 Prague, Czech Republic [4]38 Rome, Italy [4]72 San Francisco, California [4]91 Seattle, Washington [4]107 Sydney, Australia [4]120, [4]123 Tokyo, Japan [4]139, [4]143 Washington, D.C. [4]194 WPA see Works Progress Administration Wren, Christopher [2]186
X Xidan [1]36
Y Yad Vashem [2]120 Yad Vashem Holocaust Memorial [2]110, [2]111 Yakyu see Baseball Yamamoto, Isoroku [2]47 Yangtze Valley [1]41 Yankees, New York[3]187 Yan Kingdom [1]38 Yanshan Mountains [1]33 Yehoshua, Avraham B. [2]121
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Index Yemin, Moshe [2]112 Yeni Mosque (photo) [2]99 Yoshida, Shigeru [4]148 Young, Coleman [2]6, [2]10 Young’s Wax Museum [2]35 Yutang, Lin [2]37
Z Zaghlul, Saad [1]129 Zapata, Emiliano [3]28 Zeman, Milos [4]42
Junior Worldmark Encyclopedia of World Cities
Zhangliahou [1]34 Zhang Tianyi [1]48 Zhang Yimou [1]48 Zhaveri Bazaar (Mumbai, India) [3]108 Zhou Enlai [1]40, [1]48 Zhou Zuoren [1]48 Zhu Jiang (Pearl River) [2]30 Zion Square [2]111 Zoological and Botanical Gardens (Hong Kong) [2]33 Zoologischer Garten [1]60 Zwilich, Ellen [3]52
237
