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Fort Point
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ISBN 978-0-470-38744-3
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San Francisco with Kids
4th Edition
by Noelle Salmi Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —BOOKLIST
“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —GLAMOUR MAGAZINE
“Hotel information is close to ency clopedic.” —DES MOINES SUNDAY REGISTER
“Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving y ou a real feel for a place.” —KNIGHT RIDDER NEWSPAPERS
Published by:
WILEY PUBLISHING, INC. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2009 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be r eproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 U nited States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the P ublisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center , 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. R equests to the Publisher for permission should be addr essed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, 201/748-6011, fax 201/7486008, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademar ks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any pr oduct or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 978-0-470-38744-3 Editor: Linda Barth Production Editor: Jonathan Scott Cartographer: Elizabeth Puhl Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: A boy mimics the span of the G olden Gate Bridge Back cover photo: Alamo Square, with the San Francisco skyline For information on our other pr oducts and services or to obtain technical suppor t, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 877/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a v ariety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be av ailable in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321
CONTENTS
LIST OF MAPS
vi
1 HOW TO FEEL LIKE A SAN FRANCISCO FAMILY 1 Frommer’s Favorite San Francisco Experiences. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1 San Francisco Timeline. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 2 The Best Hotel Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
San Francisco Firsts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 3 The Best Dining Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Kids’ Guide to Dim Sum . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
2 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO SAN FRANCISCO 1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 2 Entry Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 3 When to Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Kids’ Favorite San Francisco Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 4 Getting There & Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Child Seats: They’re a Must . . . . . . . . . . 27 Easy Riding: Ways to Save on Public Transportation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Great Garages. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 San Francisco Parking Secrets. . . . . . . 32
3 SUGGESTED ITINERARIES 1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 Neighborhoods in Brief. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 2 Planning Your Outings . . . . . . . . . . . .53 3 The Best of San Francisco in 1 Day. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55
11
16
5 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 What Things Cost in San Francisco. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Free (or Nearly Free) Things to Do with Your Kids in San Francisco . . . . . 36 6 Health & Safety. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 7 Words of Wisdom & Helpful Resources. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 8 Staying Connected. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 9 Recommended Books, Films & Music . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
45 4 The Best of San Francisco in 2 Days. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 5 The Best of San Francisco in 3 Days. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62
iv
4 FAMILY-FRIENDLY ACCOMMODATIONS
CO N T E N T S
S A N F R A N C I S CO W I T H K I D S
1 Union Square/Financial District. . . .69 Making the Most of the Concierge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 2 South of Market (SoMa) . . . . . . . . . . .83 3 Fisherman’s Wharf. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89
4 5 6 7 8
The Embarcadero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92 Nob Hill. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94 The Marina & Cow Hollow. . . . . . . . .97 Japantown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99 Laurel Heights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
5 FAMILY-FRIENDLY DINING 1 2
3 4 5
6
Dining Out in Peace. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . . . . . 103 Union Square/The Financial District. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Belden Place—A Slice of Europe in San Francisco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110 South of Market. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Food Courts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116 Nob Hill. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Chinatown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 How to Tell Your Hakka from Your Hunan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 The Embarcadero/South Beach. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
101 Ferry Building Marketplace— Gourmet to Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122 7 North Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Sandwich Bars & Picnic Spots . . . . . .128 8 Fisherman’s Wharf. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 9 Civic Center/Hayes Valley. . . . . . . . 132 10 Marina/Cow Hollow/Presidio . . . . 133 11 Japantown/Pacific Heights/ Presidio Heights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 12 Russian Hill. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 13 The Haight. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 14 The Mission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 15 The Castro & Noe Valley . . . . . . . . . 148 16 The Richmond & Sunset. . . . . . . . . 149
6 EXPLORING SAN FRANCISCO WITH YOUR KIDS 1 The Top Attractions . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Planning Ahead. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158 Rainy-Day Activities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164 Fortune Cookies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .167 Bringing Culture to the Little Ones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .171 The Pinnipeds Who Came for Dinner. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .172 2 Museums for Everyone. . . . . . . . . . 176
7 NEIGHBORHOOD STROLLS Walking Tour 1: Chinatown . . . . . . . .191
66
3 4 5 6 7
153
I Spy with My Little Eyes—SFMOMA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .181 The Best Views . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Outings on the Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Crossing the Golden Gate Bridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Taking a Hike. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Best Guided Tours for the Family . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187
191 The “Only in San Francisco” Checklist of Rare or Unusual Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .194
Walking Tour 2: The Embarcadero & Fisherman’s Wharf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195 Walking Tour 3: South of Market . . .198 Walking Tour 4: Russian Hill to Telegraph Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .201
Walking Tour 5: The Marina. . . . . . . .203 Walking Tour 6: The Mission District . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206
8 FOR THE ACTIVE FAMILY
209 4 Sports & Games . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 5 Classes & Workshops . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
9 SHOPPING WITH YOUR KIDS 1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 2 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232
229 Mall, Rats! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .240
10 ENTERTAINMENT FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY 6 7 8 9
Movies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Dance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Circus Shows. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Take Me Out to the Ballpark. . . . . . . .266 10 Story Hours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267 11 Arcades . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268
11 SIDE TRIPS FROM SAN FRANCISCO 1 2 3 4
Berkeley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Oakland. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Point Reyes National Seashore . . . 280 Calistoga & Napa Valley . . . . . . . . . 283
5 Amusement Parks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 6 Another Family Outing by the Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287
APPENDIX: FAST FACTS, TOLL-FREE NUMBERS & WEBSITES 1 Fast Facts: San Francisco. . . . . . . . . 288
270
288
2 Toll-Free Numbers & Websites . . . 293
CO N T E N T S
1 The Big Venues. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 Comings & Goings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .249 2 Seasonal Events. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 3 Weekend Shows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 4 Theater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 What to Do If You Have a Sitter . . . .258 5 Concerts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 All-Ages Music Venues . . . . . . . . . . . . .262
247
S A N F R A N C I S CO W I T H K I D S
1 Parks & Playgrounds. . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 2 The Great Indoors. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 3 Beachcombing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216
v
INDEX
297
General Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297 Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . 305
Restaurant Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
LIST OF MAPS The Bay Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 San Francisco in 1 Day . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 San Francisco in 2 Days . . . . . . . . . . . 61 San Francisco in 3 Days . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Accommodations Near Union Square & the Financial District . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Accommodations Around Town . . . 84 Dining Near Union Square & the Financial District . . . . . . . . . . 109 Dining Around Town . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Dining Near Chinatown & North Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Haight-Ashbury & the Castro Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 The Mission District Dining . . . . . . 145 Major San Francisco Sights . . . . . . 154 Yerba Buena Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Fisherman’s Wharf & Vicinity . . . . . 169 Golden Gate Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
Walking Tour: Chinatown . . . . . . . . 193 Walking Tour: The Embarcadero & Fisherman’s Wharf . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Walking Tour: SoMa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 Walking Tour: Russian Hill to Telegraph Hill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Walking Tour: The Marina . . . . . . . . 205 Walking Tour: The Mission District . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Golden Gate National Recreation Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 The Zoo & Lake Merced Area . . . . . 221 San Francisco Shopping . . . . . . . . . 234 San Francisco Entertainment. . . . . 250 The Civic Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 Berkeley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271 Oakland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277 Point Reyes National Seashore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281 Napa Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285
For my husband, Mika Salmi, and my daughters, Annika and Natasha.
A B O U T T H E AU T H O R Noelle S almi is a fr eelance writer who liv ed and wor ked in sev eral U.S. cities and many foreign countries before moving to San Francisco in 2001. I n addition to her wor k promoting inv estment o verseas, she wor ked at a major daily ne wspaper and later at CNN in Rio de J aneiro, B razil; Associated P ress in B erlin, G ermany; and U nited P ress I nternational in New York City. Her writing has appear ed in the Santa Clara Valley Weekly, Jornal do B rasil, The West Side Spirit, Emerging Markets, USA Today, Bay Area Parent, and the San Francisco Chronicle. She is also the author of previous editions of Frommer’s San Francisco with Kids and of Frommer’s San Francisco Day by Day (1st and 2nd editions). She lives in San Francisco with her husband Mika and three children Annika, Natasha, and Aksel.
AC K N OW L E D G M E N TS Thank you to so many friends who contributed their thoughts on the best places in S an Francisco to play, eat, and shop with childr en. Thanks very much to my editor Linda B arth for her guidance and flexibility. My appreciation extends to N ina Thompson, who r emains a tr easure trove of information about this lo vely city; she is endlessly gener ous with her time and always available to answ er last-minute queries. I am grateful to Leann Castaneda and to J ennifer Coombs for their research assistance, and to Raili Salmi and Renee Veale for their help at home. Above all, I thank my husband M ika for his suppor t and encouragement and my childr en Annika, Natasha, and Aksel, with whom exploring S an Francisco is always a delight.
A N I N V I TAT I O N TO T H E R E A D E R In researching this book, w e discovered many wonder ful places—hotels, r estaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s San Francisco with Kids, 4th Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
A N A D D I T I O N A L N OT E Please be advised that trav el information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held r esponsible for the experiences of r eaders while trav eling. Your safety is impor tant to us, ho wever, so w e encourage you to stay aler t and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close ey e on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip: Frommer’s San Francisco Frommer’s San Francisco Day by Day Frommer’s San Francisco Free & Dirt Cheap Frommer’s California
F R O M M E R ’S S TA R R AT I N G S, I CO N S & A B B R E V I AT I O N S Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality , value, service, amenities, and special featur es using a star-rating system. I n countr y, state, and regional guides, w e also rate to wns and r egions to help y ou narrow down your choices and budget y our time accor dingly. H otels and r estaurants ar e rated on a scale of z ero (r ecommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, to wns, and regions are rated accor ding to the follo wing scale: z ero stars (r ecommended), one star (highly r ecommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use six feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-kno w advice, and unique experiences that separate trav elers fr om tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds
Special finds—those places only insiders kno w about
Fun Facts
Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun
Moments
Special moments—those experiences that memories ar e made of
Overrated
Places or experiences not wor th your time or money
Tips
Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value
Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC D iscover DC D iners Club MC M asterCard
V Visa
F R O M M E R S.CO M Now that y ou have this guidebook to help y ou plan a gr eat trip, visit our w ebsite at www . frommers.com for additional travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features r egularly to giv e y ou instant access to the most curr ent trip-planning information available. A t Frommers.com, y ou’ll find scoops on the best air fares, lodging rates, and car rental bargains. You can ev en book y our trav el online thr ough our r eliable trav el booking partners. Other popular features include: • • • • •
Online updates of our most popular guidebooks Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways Newsletters highlighting the hottest travel trends Podcasts, interactive maps, and up-to-the-minute events listings Opinionated blog entries by Arthur Frommer himself
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
How to Feel Like a San Francisco Family San Francisco has always had a way of calling me back. Although I spent
most of my life in a whirlwind of trav el, it was punctuated b y stays in this glorious par t of the world. I was born not far fr om the city limits, and my par ents often brought my brother and me into to wn. We moved to Puerto Rico when I was still y oung and, after that, to B razil and then U ruguay. When we returned to the U.S. y ears later it was to Southern California; but because my par ents retained a fondness for S an Francisco, we visited the city regularly. Perhaps it was inevitable that I would attend college in the Bay Area, so that weekends could be spent exploring S an Francisco with roommates and friends. U pon graduating, I was off again: I wor ked at a ne wspaper in B razil, wr ote for the Associated P ress in Germany, earned a graduate degr ee in N ew York, and was then based ther e while I worked to promote investment overseas. In between travel to far corners of the ear th, I met my soon-to-be husband, a nomad like myself . Although w e moved to S eattle, my international job kept the fr equent flier miles multiplying—until the bir th of our first daughter, when all the travel came to a screeching halt. Then it happened. San Francisco harkened again. My husband’s work brought us here, where our second daughter was born a fe w months later. Five years after that, our son was born. And here we are: eight years, and three kids, later we are a certified San Francisco family—going to every birthday party venue in town; trekking out to the beach in summer, bundled up in jeans and jackets against the fog; loading up the kids ’ bikes in the car on w eekends to take them some where flat to ride; buying our organic gr eens at the Farmer’s Market; and considering steamed pork buns, shrimp dumplings, and stuffed crab claws (in other words, dim sum) a fine meal for br eakfast. Through all the travel, the Bay Area had always been my spiritual home, if not my real one. Now San Francisco is my family ’s true residence, one that w elcomed us fr om the moment we arrived. It helps that the city is used to taking in people fr om all o ver the globe. Most of the S an Franciscans we know seem to hav e started life some where else, although we’re always impressed when we meet someone who actually grew up here. The city is so rich with histor y, culture, and little-kno wn secrets that it ’s a tr eat to pick the brains of a lifelong r esident. I t’s been especially ex citing to begin writing guidebooks about San Francisco, giving me a terrific ex cuse to look a little deeper and learn a little more about the wonderful offerings here. I’ve made an effort to provide some insights in this book that will make y our family’s stay in S an Francisco more rewarding and memorable. Visits to the city ’s most famous attractions will certainly be enjoyable, but I hope that y ou take the time to stray off the beaten path—if ev en just a little. When in F isherman’s Wharf, consider skipping the T-shirt shops and candy vendors of PIER 39 and heading instead to the Hyde Street Pier, where you can get a r eal sense of the city ’s seafaring past (while the kids climb all o ver antique ships). I n Chinato wn, go ahead and check out the color ful tourist stor es on
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Grant Street, but don ’t miss the ex otic and authentic gr ocers on S tockton Street. And although I know that cashew chicken at the big r estaurant in the middle of Chinato wn sounds appetizing, consider ordering dim sum out in the Richmond D istrict instead. One of the terrific things about S an Francisco is that a whole lot of the sights and activities that appeal to tourists in general will appeal to families specifically . What kid doesn’t enjoy a ride on a cable car? And although ev eryone loves a str oll along C rissy Field, y ounger ones will be especially delighted playing on the grassy hills and sandy beaches. Not to mention the ferr y ride to Alcatraz I sland, which is per fect family far e. Certainly, not every kid will be thrilled by a trip to the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA), but a terrific childr en’s center is just acr oss the str eet. For every adult attraction you ante up, I’ll see you three that are fabulous with kids. In fact, having little ones is a great excuse to visit the Exploratorium, the California Academy of Sciences, and the San Francisco Zoo—all of which are first-rate. So get started planning your trip. This chapter is a good place to begin; in it, I suggest some of our all-time fav orite San Francisco family experiences, in addition to the best hotels and dining spots.
1 F R O M M E R ’S FAV O R I T E S A N F R A N C I S CO EXPERIENCES • Shopping at the F erry Plaza Farmer’s Market: P erhaps y ou hav en’t had a chance lately to stop and smell the roses, admire the tomatoes, or compar e the peaches. I f that ’s the case, hop on the F-M arket str eetcar to the F erry Building and take a str oll ar ound the best outdoor mar ket in the B ay Ar ea. It’s a Saturday morning ritual for a great many San Franciscans who come down with their baskets and car efully select the season’s finest from organic farmers and local pur veyors of fr esh sausages, free-range meats, oliv e oils, honey, and baked goods. The farmers offer tastes of their war es, so y our kids may disco ver what freshly picked-at-their-peak fr uits taste like—a r evelation if they ’ve never had a per fectly ripe pear or apricot. Don’t eat breakfast first; along with coffee drinks and a huge array of morning breads, pastries, and sw eets fr om the very nicest bakeries, local r estaurants serve specialties that taste ev en better eaten with a vie w of the bay . A mor e limited farmers’ market is also open on Tuesdays. See p. 161.
• Eating Shrimp Dumplings for Breakfast: I f crab claws, por k buns, and steamed dumplings ar en’t y our idea of Sunday brunch, it’s time to branch out from omelets and pancakes. One of our favorite w eekend morning activities is gathering with friends at a large table with a lazy S usan in the middle, while servers bring trays laden with bite-siz ed Chinese delicacies. I f y ou’re planning on staying downtown, Yank Sing is the place to go (O ne Rincon Center , 101 Spear St., at M ission St.; & 415/7811111). I f y ou’re planning a walk at Land’s E nd, consider hopping on the 38-Geary bus and tr ekking out to Ton Kiang (5821 G eary B lvd., betw een 22nd and 23r d av es.; & 415/7524440) for a hear ty pr e-hike br unch. Just get there early, as tables fill up fast. See p. 124 and p. 152. • Strolling thr ough Chinato wn: J ust steps away from Union Square, you can enter another world—one decorated by bright r ed, gr een, and gold banners. The knickknack shops, traditional herbalists, vendors of ceremonial papers
The Bay Area 12
N
5 km
121
12
121
29 12
r. ld D A r no
Napa County Airport
121
Infineon Raceway
a
Sears Point
Marin County Airport
M
101
12 29
80
e World rin y. Pkw
37
Novato 37
Vallejo 780
San Pablo Bay
101
Marinwood
Martinez
Pinole e
4
Fairfax San Anselmo
Corte Madera M dera Larkspur
MT. TAMALPAIS STATE PARK
San Rafael– San n Pablo Richmond nd Bridge Richmond 580
San Sa Quentin Q
1
1 MUIR WOODS NATIONAL Muir MONUMENT Beach
101
Marin City
131
Berkeley
80
Angel Island
580 San Francisco-Oakland Golden G Bayy Bridge Gate Bridge Alcatraz 80
Point Bonita GOLDEN GATE NATIONAL RECREATION AREA
Albany Tiburon T bu
S alit Sausalito
Rodeo Beach
101
Piedmont
OAKLAND AKLAND AT&T Park
SAN FRANC SCO FRANCISCO
The Bay Area
El Cerrito
Mill Valley
Stinson son Beach
13
580
61
Alameda eda
San Leandro
Sacr Sacramento
Monster Mo P Park
280
San Francisco Franc s CAL AL IFORNIA I F O RN I A
35
Daly City
101
Los Angeles
South San Fr Francisco
1
PACIFIC OCEAN To Half Moon Bay
580
880
280
1
Pacifica cifica
35
380
1
80
61
nd Oakland Int'l Airport
San Francisco Bay
San Francisco I Int'l Airport Rockaway San Bruno Beach
San Lorenzo orenzo
teo Ma 92 San ridge B
F R O M M E R ’S FAV O R I T E S A N F R A N C I S CO E X P E R I E N C E S
San Rafael
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0
Napa
Sonoma
5 mi
0
3
4 H O W TO F E E L L I K E A S A N F R A N C I S CO FA M I LY
San Francisco Timeline
F R O M M E R ’S FAV O R I T E S A N F R A N C I S CO E X P E R I E N C E S
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1776 Spain leads the first c olonizers to the area and establishes the P residio of San F rancisco and M ission Dolor es, f ounding Yerba Buena (San F rancisco). 1821 Mexico declares independence from Spain, and Yerba Buena r emains under M exican rule. 1846 Captain John M ontgomery plants the U .S. flag into present-day Portsmouth S quare t o claim Yerba Buena f or the Unit ed Stat es. Yerba Buena is renamed San F rancisco. 1848 James M arshall disc overs gold at Sutt er’s M ill. New spaperman Sam Brannan publicizes the disc overy, and the Gold Rush beg ins. 1848 Domingo Ghirar delli sails t o San F rancisco t o join his par tner, James Lick, and beg in what is t o become the cit y’s most famous choc olate fac tory. 1849 Isadore Boudin, an experienc ed French baker, introduces the or dinary sourdough y east used b y miners t o a F rench-style loaf of br ead and cr eates San Francisco sourdough bread. 1868 T he Daily Morning Chr onicle, lat er the San Francisco Chr onicle, beg ins publishing. 1873 Andrew Hallidie , inspir ed b y an ac cident he witnesses when a t eam of horses slips on a rain y San F rancisco hill, invents the cable car . 1887 George Hearst pur chases a small daily new spaper, the S an F rancisco Examiner, t o pr omote his rac e for the U .S. S enate. H is son, William R andolph Hearst, turns it int o a v ery suc cessful tabloid. 1892 The “Ellis Island of the West,” Angel Island , opens , initially, as a quarantine station. 1906 On April 18 at 5:12am, a major ear thquake r ocks San F rancisco and starts more than 50 fir es, which burn unc ontrollably for 3 da ys. Two-thirds of the cit y is destr oyed, 250,000 people ar e lef t homeless , and mor e than 675 are dead or missing . 1927 Modern-age hockey da wns f or the Ba y Ar ea with the cr eation of the California Hockey L eague.
and incense, and grocery stores teeming with live frogs, crabs, and other wriggly seafood ar e all a visual and cultural treat. A stop b y the G olden Gate Fortune Cookie Company just adds to the fun. S ee chapter 8 for a self-guided walking tour of the neighborhood. • Hanging O ut at C rissy F ield: What better way to spend the day than to slow down and take in the vie ws of the
Golden Gate Bridge and the city fr om the B ay Ar ea’s ne west national par k? Kids can run around on the hills, check out the gift shop, pile up rocks, or play in the sand. B uy some nice sandwiches at the Warming Hut and enjoy a picnic at one of the many bayside picnic tables. See p. 160. • Riding Bikes down the Embarcadero: The boulevard is wide and the str eet is
5
1936 The San F rancisco–Oakland Ba y Bridge opens on No vember 12. I t remains one of the largest bridges in the world and carries more than 270,000 vehicles each da y—more traffic than an y other t oll bridge. 1937 The Golden G ate Bridge opens t o pedestrian traffic on M ay 26 and t o automobile traffic on M ay 27. 1945 The charter establishing the United Nations is signed in San Francisco’s Herbst Theater. 1960 Candlestick P ark opens f or baseball and f ootball. The last baseball game takes plac e in 1999. 1965
Jefferson Airplane opens at the M atrix, a club , on F illmore.
1978 PIER 39 is built. One of San F rancisco’s most popular attractions, it gets more than 10 million visit ors each y ear. 1989 On Oc tober 17 at 5:04pm, right bef ore the star t of the World S eries between the Oak land A ’s and the San F rancisco Giants , a 7.1 mag nitude earthquake hits the Ba y Ar ea. One person dies at C andlestick P ark fr om a heart attack .
2004 San Francisco Mayor Gavin Newsom issues mor e than 4,000 same -sex marriage licenses, which are later annulled by the state’s Supreme Court. (That court legalized same-sex marriage in 2008, but it was defeated by a state-wide ballot proposition the same y ear). 2006 Thousands of r esidents line the str eets bef ore da wn on April 18 t o mark the 100-y ear anniv ersary of “The Gr eat Quake ,” falling silent at 5:12am. Eleven sur vivors of the orig inal quake att end the ev ent. 2008 The Castro Theatre hosts the w orld premiere of Milk, a film about San Francisco politician Har vey M ilk, starring S ean P enn, who wins an Oscar f or the role.
flat, making the E mbarcadero an easy family ride. S tart at the B ike Hut (see chapter 9) and cr uise do wn the str eet past the piers, stopping b y the F erry Building to buy picnic food. Walk the bikes do wn P ier 7 and see if any one’s caught a fish or crab at the end of the pier. Continue to ward P IER 39 and Fisherman’s Wharf. It may become too crowded to pedal her e, but once y ou
reach the Hyde Street Pier, space opens up. Keep going until you get to Aquatic Park, wher e y ou can stop to eat y our pre-packed lunch. • Boating on Stow Lake: Pile into one of the rowboats, or pedal boats and cir cle this man-made lake as many times as you can. R elax as y ou admire the tr ees and revel in the laughter of the kids as they attempt to keep the craft fr om
1 F R O M M E R ’S FAV O R I T E S A N F R A N C I S CO E X P E R I E N C E S
2000 Pacific Bell Park (now AT&T Park), the home to the San Francisco Giants, opens.
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1934 Alcatraz Island bec omes a f ederal prison.
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bumping into other boats or landing on the bank. See chapter 9 for more information on this and other outdoor family adventures. • Checking Out the Scene at the M aritime National Historical Park: Young kids will lo ve exploring the antique ships of the H yde Street Pier (p. 170), running ar ound on the grass at Victorian Park, and gaping at the crazy swimmers in A quatic P ark who brav e the Bay’s chilly waters. All the while, grownups can mar vel at the lo vely scener y. Then ev eryone can grab a snack fr om the S an F rancisco C repe Car t in The Cannery (p. 132), and perhaps listen to some music from a local performer. • Hanging O ut in G olden G ate P ark: You don’t need an agenda to fritter away the hours ar ound San Francisco’s most famous park. The antique car ousel is a big draw , as is the K oret Childr en’s Quarter, a world-class playgr ound. The Japanese Tea G arden is so composed and elegant y ou’ll want to meditate there, but the kids will pr efer stepping over the stone walkways and scaling the Drum B ridge. B udding botanists will appreciate the dahlia garden outside the Conservatory of F lowers and will especially enjo y ogling the carniv orous plants inside. The de Young M useum tower affor ds super city vie ws and the Three G ems str ucture in the sculptur e garden is a great place to chill out for a moment. O n S undays, the par k is closed to traffic; near 6th A venue and Fulton S treet, be sur e to look for the skate dancers, who put on a fine sho w. See p. 173. • Traveling through the jungle and the heavens at the California Academy of Sciences: This Golden Gate Park attraction deserves its o wn heading. O pened in late 2008 in a ne w awar d-winning home, the world ’s most eco-friendly museum will inspir e the botanist, marine biologist, or astronomer in your
child. B reathe in the moist air of the world’s rainforests, soak up the scener y atop the living roof, fawn over the fishes of the Steinhart Aquarium, and experience space trav el in the P lanetarium. See p. 178. • Taking the F erry to M arin: B undle up and catch a B lue and G old F erry (p. 185) fr om P ier 41 to S ausalito or Tiburon. You can take bikes on the boats if y ou like, but both villages ar e petite and walkable. The ride is glorious. Remain outside for the full effect of the wind and salt spray. On a clear day, you’ll have trouble deciding where to look; the scenery ahead is as thrilling as the vie w behind y ou. S ausalito is v ery touristy , but the stores are fun for windo w shopping. Tiburon is even more upscale than Sausalito. It won’t take long to tour the village; leave someone behind to claim a table at G uaymas, at 5 M ain St., where drinks and passable Mexican food on the sunny deck make this trip a little v acation within your vacation. • Trekking Along the Land ’s End Trail: Provided your child won’t run off ahead of y ou, as the trail r uns along a steep cliff, ther e’s har dly a mor e beautiful place to walk in S an Francisco. Start at the trail head on Camino del Mar, parking next to pictur esque Lincoln P ark, which is dotted with majestic Monterey Cyprus tr ees. H ead w est on the trail toward the Cliff H ouse, pausing to admire the vie w fr om the “ other” side of the G olden Gate Bridge, the sw eeping Pacific Ocean, and the Marin Headlands to the north. See p. 186. • Cheering the H ome Team at A T&T Park: You don’t even need to be a baseball fan to deriv e a lot of pleasur e from an afternoon or evening at this gem of a baseball stadium (p . 265). B leacher seats go on sale at the par k on game days, but if y ou pr efer something fancier, y ou can usually get good seats online fr om season ticket holders if
on the N-J udah str eetcar; it deposits you at the fr ont gate. American League partisans hav e the option of taking BART (the local commuter train) across the bay to the Oakland Coliseum.
2 THE BEST HOTEL BETS beer and popcorn for those 7 and up . Kids staying in their o wn r ooms get a specially stocked minibar , and bathrobes ar e supplied in siz es to fit the whole family . The concierge will also send up other family items—fr om cribs to boar d games—on r equest. See p. 86. O lder kids will appr eciate the “gaming suites ” in J apantown’s Hotel Tomo (1800 S utter S t.; & 877/7387477 or 415/921-4000), which hav e the latest S ony P layStation, Wii, and a 6-foot L CD pr ojection scr een. S ee p. 99. • Best Suites: The Hotel Beresford Arms (701 P ost S t.; & 800/533-6533 or 415/673-2600) has 60 J acuzzi suites, half of which have full kitchens and half of which hav e kitchenettes. The guest rooms and bathr ooms also offer plenty of floor space and all beds ar e queen beds. S ee p . 82. I n J apantown, the Hotel Kabuki (1625 Post St.; & 800/ 533-4567 or 415/922-3200) has family suites for the price of one-r oom junior suites, but with shoji screens that separate the kids in their o wn ar ea, complete with J apanese futons on tatami mats. S ee p . 99. The homey suites at the Cow H ollow Motor I nn & Suites (2190 Lombard St.; & 415/ 921-5800) contain two bathr ooms, two bedr ooms, and a kitchen—and must be booked far in adv ance. F or value and space, these offer the sweetest suite deal in town. See p. 97. • Best Indoor Pool: You hav e to supervise your kids at every hotel pool, but if
1 THE BEST HOTEL BETS
• Best All-Ar ound F amily H otels: The Argonaut (495 J efferson S t.; & 866/ 415-0704 or 415/563-0800) is my hands-down fav orite in this categor y. It’s a charming hotel in a family-friendly neck of the woods. S everal kid-friendly attractions ar e either next door or less than a block away: grassy Victorian Park, the Aquatic Park beach, the Hyde Street P ier, the cable car turnar ound, and The Cannery. The whimsical lobby and its adjacent N ational M aritime Visitors Center will appeal to kids as well. The double queen r ooms are well suited to families, and the in-house restaurant serves kids’ meals in a beach pail. What mor e could y ou want? S ee p. 89. The warm and friendly Serrano Hotel (405 Taylor S t.; & 866/2896561 or 415/885-2500) gives kids a toy upon check-in, offers kid-siz ed animal print robes for use during their stay, and has a game librar y av ailable to guests. See p. 76. The Handlery Union Square (351 G eary S t.; & 800/843-4343 or 415/781-7800) also gets my v ote, mainly for its outdoor, heated pool. See p. 78. • Best Amenities for Kids: The St. Regis (125 3rd St.; & 415/284-4000) offers kids their own bathrobes, toys from the SFMOMA gift shop, cookies with their name on them, and special items in the minibar—provided par ents call the concierge befor ehand. S ee p . 87. The Four Seasons (757 Market St.; & 415/ 633-3000) supplies cookies and milk on arrival for kids 6 and under and root
7 H O W TO F E E L L I K E A S A N F R A N C I S CO FA M I LY
nothing’s av ailable at G iants D ugout Stores or at the par k ticket booth. Kids will hav e a field day playing at the Coca-Cola F an Lot playgr ound and chowing do wn on the notable food concessions. Transportation is a br eeze
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THE BEST HOTEL BETS
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your kids don’t need y ou to swim with them, you can work out on the poolside cardio equipment at the Hotel Nikko, at 222 Mason St. (& 800/248-3308 or 415/394-1111). If you’d prefer to take it easy, the lounge chairs and J apanese hot tub , all under an attractiv e glass ceiling, ar e a r elaxing alternativ e. S ee p. 69. The elegant infinity pool at the St. R egis (125 3r d S t.; & 415/2844000) is so inviting, par ents will want to go for a swim ev en when the kids have had enough. S ee p . 87. The San Francisco Marriott (55 4th St.; & 415/ 896-1600) has an indoor pool, which isn’t elegant, but is big, clean, and open from 6am to 11pm. See p. 87. • Best Outdoor Pool: As you might have guessed, the competitors for this honor are fe w. Ar ound U nion S quare, the award goes to the Handlery (351 Geary St.; & 800/843-4343 or 415/7817800) for a small, heated pool in a pleasant patio. See p. 78. Among F isherman’s Wharf hotels, the Hyatt at Fisherman’s Wharf (555 N. P oint St.; & 800/223-1234 or 415/563-1234) fields far and away the nicest pool. S ee p. 90. The Hotel Del Sol (3100 Webster St.; & 877/433-5765 or 415/9215520) wins for the best poolside decor , with palm tr ees and a hammock, but the pool itself is miniscule. S ee p. 97. • Best I n-House E ntertainment: The Top of the Mark at the Mark Hopkins InterContinental (1 Nob Hill; & 800/ 662-6455 or 415/392-3434) is terrific for drinks, views, or weekend dinner and dancing. I f the kids ar e old enough to leave tucked in bed in a room downstairs, you’ll have the pleasure of going out for a nice evening without v enturing far fr om your temporary home. S ee p. 95. A t the Hotel Bijou (111 Mason St.; 800/7711022 or 415/771-1200) a tiny in-house movie theater shows a nightly double billing of filmed-in–San Francisco movies, so
you can round out your day of sightseeing with a lo w-key ev ening activity . S ee p. 80. If you want to do something silly with the kids, take them to the Tonga Room at the Fairmont H otel (950 Mason S t.; & 800/441-1414 or 415/772-5000) for appetizers and a mild tropical storm. See p. 94. • Best Lobb y: I f the kids ar e into fair y tales, the Fairmont Hotel (950 M ason St.; & 800/441-1414 or 415/7725000) will leave them waiting for P rincess Aurora to arrive. See p. 94. A close contender is the Palace Hotel (2 N ew Montgomery St., at Market St.; & 415/ 546-5089); the ceiling of its historic Garden Court consists of 80,000 panes of glass. S ee p. 86. F or the most stunning lobby in to wn, the tr uly opulent, yet tasteful, Ar t D eco–inspired Four Seasons (757 Market St.; & 415/6333000) tops the list. See p. 86. • Best I f You H ave a C ar: F or stays around U nion S quare, the Galleria Park H otel (191 S utter S t.; & 800/ 792-9639 or 415/781-3060) is built over a par king garage, so it won ’t take long to r etrieve y ours. Like all do wntown hotels, parking charges are nuts— $30 per day is av erage—so it ’s not economical to par k her e, just conv enient. S ee p . 72. O ne car per r oom gets fr ee indoor par king at the Cow Hollow M otor I nn & S uites (2190 Lombard S t.; & 415/921-5800). S ee p. 97. A spot for y our car also comes courtesy of the Hotel D el S ol (3100 Webster S t.; & 877/433-5765 or 415/921-5520; p . 97) or the Marina Motel (2576 Lombard St.; & 800/3466118 or 415/921-9406; p. 98). • Best I f You B rought the D og: The Hotel Monaco (501 Geary St.; & 800/ 214-4220 or 415/292-0100) has packages for pooches that riv al anything other hotels have for kids. I don’t know if ther e’s an underlying message ther e.
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1 THE BEST HOTEL BETS
onto the bay, while the “Circular” suites offer nearly 180 degr ees of windo ws. See p. 92. Most of the hotels atop N ob Hill offer fine vistas, but the Mark Hopkins I nterContinental (1 N ob Hill; & 800/662-6455 or 415/3923434) gets the top honors in this category. See p. 95. • Best Hotel Food: The Grand Cafe and Petit Cafe in the Hotel Monaco (501 Geary S t.; & 800/214-4220 or 415/292-0100) pr ovide first-class dining just an elev ator ride away . S ee p. 73. Cortez in the Hotel Adagio (550 Geary B lvd.; & 800/228-8830 or 415/775-5000) offers excellent cuisine, but while the ev ening tapas menu may be too sophisticated and pricey for a family meal, br eakfasts ar e w ell ex ecuted. See p. 79. Ponzu in the Serrano Hotel (405 Taylor S t.; & 866/ 289-6561 or 415/885-2500) has a great menu of pan-Asian cuisine. S ee p. 76. The best hotel restaurant for kids has to be Puccini & Pinetti, where kids can design their own pizzas. It’s next to the Hotel AbRi (127 Ellis St.; & 866/ 778-6169 or 415/392-8800). S ee p. 79. The Dining Room at the Ritz-C arlton (600 Stockton St.; & 800/241-3333 or 415/296-7465) is one of the most highly rated restaurants in town. See p. 96. • If P rice I s N o O bject: F or extr eme luxury and pampering, top honors go to the St. Regis (125 3r d St.; & 415/ 284-4000). S ee p . 87. The Four S easons (757 M arket S t.; & 415/6333000) is a close second. S ee p . 86. I f you pr efer mor e traditional opulence, the Ritz-Carlton (600 S tockton S t.; & 800/241-3333 or 415/296-7465) provides a sumptuous hotel experience. See p. 96. • If Price Is the Deal Breaker: The most charming budget option near U nion Square is the Golden Gate Hotel (775 Bush St.; & 800/835-1118 or 415/3923702). Rooms are small but clean and
H O W TO F E E L L I K E A S A N F R A N C I S CO FA M I LY
See p. 73. A sister property, the Serrano Hotel (405 Taylor S t.; & 866/ 289-6561 or 415/885-2500), will walk your dog b y appointment and stocks gourmet pet food, tr eats, and comfy bedding. See p. 76. The Hotel Vitale (8 Mission S t.; & 888/890-8688 or 415/278-3700; p . 92) and the St. Regis (125 3r d St.; & 415/284-4000; p. 87) also welcome pets, and the Larkspur H otel (524 S utter S t.; & 800/ 919-9779 or 415/421-2865; p . 81) keeps a bowl of dog treats in the lobby. • Best for Walkers: S teps fr om Chinatown and the F inancial D istrict, and still close to U nion S quare, the Hotel Triton (342 G rant Ave.; & 800/8001299 or 415/394-0500) is terrific for anyone who wants to get up and explore downtown. See p. 73. I f y ou prefer to stroll along the water , tr y the Hotel Vitale (8 M ission S t.; & 888/8908688 or 415/278-3700; p . 92) or the Harbor Court Hotel (165 S teuart St.; & 866/792-8263 or 415/882-1330; p. 93), both of which ar e acr oss the street fr om the E mbarcadero pr omenade, one of the best places in the city for a str oll. The Argonaut Hotel (495 Jefferson St.; & 866/415-0704 or 415/ 563-0800) is next to one of the loveliest walking paths in to wn, which star ts at Aquatic P ark, r uns thr ough woodsy Fort M ason, and takes y ou along the scenic Marina waterfront. See p. 89. • Most E nvironmental: The Orchard Garden Hotel (466 Bush St.; & 888/ 717-2881 or 415/399-9807) is the first California Hotel to be certified for ecofriendly ne w constr uction b y the U.S. Green Building Council. S ee p. 75. I ts sister property, the Orchard Hotel (665 Bush St.; & 888/717-2881 or 415/3628878), is also an envir onmentally friendly option. See p. 75. • Best Views: Most of the guest rooms at the Hotel Vitale (8 Mission St.; & 888/ 890-8688 or 415/278-3700) look out
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THE BEST HOTEL BETS
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bright, and breakfast is part of the package. S ee p . 81. I f y ou ar e planning to stay for a fe w days, the Halcyon Hotel (649 J ones S t.; & 800/627-2396 or 415/929-8033) offers safe, comfor table rooms with money-saving kitchenettes. See p. 82. For a family of thr ee willing to share showers and store stuff in lockers, a private room at Hostelling International S an F rancisco, F isherman’s Wharf (F ort M ason, B uilding 240; & 415/771-7277) can be had for as little as $60, and comes with a bay view, continental breakfast, use of a kitchen, and free parking. Rates for a family of four start at $80. S ee p. 82. My advice is to get away fr om the tourist z ones altogether and book a r oom at Hotel Tomo (1800 S utter S t.; & 877/7387477 or 415/921-4000), the ne west, brightest accommodation y ou can get for not a lot of money. See p. 99. • Best for B aby: Call the Four Seasons (757 M arket S t.; & 415/633-3000) and tell them y ou’re arriving with a baby. They’ll set y ou up with a fully outfitted crib , a diaper storage unit, diapers, wipes, bab y shampoo, bab y lotion, and so on. See p. 86. The Laurel Inn (444 P residio A ve.; & 800/5528735 or 415/567-8467) is another top pick for trav elers with babies or toddlers, not just for the kitchenettes but also for the neighborhood, which is teeming with families. See p. 100. • Best for Toddlers: When y ou’ve got a 2- or 3-year-old in tow, nothing comes in handier than a nearb y par k. You’ll find a small one acr oss the str eet from The Huntington Hotel (1075 California St.; & 800/227-4683 or 415/4745400). Also, if y ou snag one of the Huntington’s rooms with a full kitchen, you’ll be all set when the little tyke wakes up at 5am demanding br eakfast. See p . 95. The Marina M otel (2576 Lombard S t.; & 800/346-6118 or 415/921-9406) is close to two gr eat
playgrounds: M oscone and Co w H ollow. Even if you can’t snag a unit with a kitchen, all r ooms hav e r efrigerators. See p . 98. I f y ou’ll be racing back to the hotel for y our toddler ’s nap ev ery afternoon, the Serrano H otel (405 Taylor S t.; & 866/289-6561 or 415/ 885-2500), conv eniently located near Union Square, is a good choice. I t also keeps complimentar y cribs, str ollers, and booster seats on hand. S ee p. 76. • Best for Teens: The Hotel Triton (342 Grant A ve.; & 800/800-1299 or 415/394-0500) will wake up the most disaffected teenager with r ock ’n ’ r oll in the lobb y and a design palette that has “groovy” written all o ver it. R ooms are small so y ou won’t be sharing, but that’s good for the kid who needs some space. S ee p . 73. The W H otel lobb y and bar (181 3rd St.; & 888/625-5140 or 415/777-5300) is a whirlwind of activity that can be fascinating for teens. The clientele considers itself pretty hip. The location, acr oss from Yerba Buena Center, means instant recreation for the kids at the Metreon. See p. 88. • Best for Large F amilies: The Hyatt at Fisherman’s Wharf (555 N. P oint St.; & 800/223-1234 or 415/563-1234) can set y ou up in connecting double/ doubles and on r equest will pr ovide a fridge. Even better, coin-op washers and dryers are on ev ery floor, which, if y ou can get the kids to do a load, will make your r eturn home calmer . S ee p . 90. The absolute best hotel for big or extended families is The Laur el I nn (444 P residio A ve.; & 800/552-8735 or 415/567-8467), because y ou can request inter connecting r ooms with two double beds and one of the kitchenette units, creating your own custom suite. See p. 100. • Best for Long S tays: Ar ound the Marina, the Cow H ollow M otor I nn & Suites (2190 Lombar d St.; & 415/ 921-5800) pr ovides apar tment-style
11 Fun Facts
San Francisco Firsts
1937 Harold Wobber becomes the first person t o commit suicide b y jumping off the Golden G ate Bridge.
H O W TO F E E L L I K E A S A N F R A N C I S CO FA M I LY
1944 San F rancisco Ballet pr oduces the first full-length danc e pr oduction of The Nutcracker in the Unit ed States.
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1847 The C alifornia Star, a f our-page w eekly, bec omes the first new spaper published in San F rancisco. 1848 The first public school in C alifornia opens in San F rancisco. 1852 The first legal ex ecution in San F rancisco takes plac e on Russian H ill. 1860 The first Pony Express rider begins a trip from Missouri to San Francisco. The 2,000-mile journey takes 10 da ys. 1880 The w orld’s first motion pic ture pr emiers at the San F rancisco Ar t Association Hall. 1888 The poem “Casey at the Bat ” b y Ernest L. Thayer is published f or the first time in the San Francisco Examiner newspaper. 1911 The San F rancisco Symphony plays its first season. 1912 Women in San F rancisco vote for the first time .
1964 The C ondor Club in Nor th Beach bec omes the c ountry’s first t opless dance bar. 1965 The band f ormerly k nown as The Warlocks pla ys f or the first time as The Grateful Dead at San F rancisco’s Fillmore Auditorium. 1977 Harvey M ilk is elec ted t o the San F rancisco Boar d of Super visors, becoming the first openly ga y man to be elec ted to major public offic e in the United States.
suites with full kitchens and discounts for stays longer than 5 days. S ee p. 97. The kitchen units at the Marina Motel (2576 Lombard St.; & 800/346-6118 or 415/921-9406) are available to those staying 7 nights or mor e. S ee p . 98.
The Halcyon H otel (649 J ones S t.; & 800/627-2396 or 415/929-8033) also offers bare-boned, but inexpensive, rooms with kitchenettes designed for guests staying for a w eek at a time. S ee p. 82.
3 THE BEST DINING BETS • Best Burger: At $7 for a cheeseburger , the burgers at Burger Joint (700 Haight St.; & 415/864-3833 and 807 Valencia St.; & 415/824-3494) don’t come
cheap. Considering they ’re made with only the finest ingr edients, including naturally raised N iman Ranch beef , they’re wor th every penny. See p. 142.
THE BEST DINING BETS
1952 The Ba y Ar ea Educational Television c ompany is f ounded, ev entually becoming KQED, one of the first public br oadcasting c ompanies in America.
H O W TO F E E L L I K E A S A N F R A N C I S CO FA M I LY
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Taylor’s R efresher (1 F erry B ldg.;
& 866/328-3663) comes in a close
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THE BEST DINING BETS
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second, with burgers made fr om allnatural, local beef , topped with a tasty “secret sauce ” and garnished with lettuce and tomatoes fresh from the Farmer’s Market. See p. 125. Best Milkshake: It’s close, but I’m giving this one to Taylor’s Refresher. Both it and Burger Joint (see “Best Burger,” above) use S an F rancisco’s luscious Double Rainbo w ice cr eam for their first-rate strawberry, vanilla, and chocolate shakes. But in the summer Taylor’s branches out with a to-die-for blueberry shake. See p. 125 and p. 142. Best for B reakfast: F or its inv entive omelets, terrific pancakes, and fr eshbaked breads, Ella’s (500 Presidio Ave.; & 415/441-5669) takes the priz e in the early meal categor y. See p. 139. O f course, while in S an F rancisco, y ou could always branch out and hav e dim sum for breakfast (see “Best Dim Sum,” below), which I highly recommend. Best Children’s Menu: Kids ar en’t limited to chicken fingers and fries at friendly Puccini & Pinetti (129 Ellis St.; & 415/392-5500). The children’s menu includes a salad, fr uit, soup , and spaghetti, along with the irr esistible makeyour-own-pizza option. See p. 108. Best D ecor: Step into Ana M andara (891 Beach St.; & 415/771-6800) and step into Vietnam—complete with tropical foliage, a facade of a Vietnamese home, and Indochinese artifacts. See p. 129. Best Views: Perched atop a bluff o ver the open ocean, the Cliff House Bistro (1090 Point Lobos A ve.; & 415/3863330) affords a vista that will take your breath away . S ee p . 149. I f y ou can ’t make it out to the S unset District, tr y McCormick & K uleto’s (900 N orth Point S t.; & 415/929-1730) in G hirardelli S quare for a vie w of the S an Francisco Bay, Alcatraz I sland, and the
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historic ships of the H yde S treet P ier. See p. 130. Best If You Have a Sitter: Fleur de Lys (777 S utter S t.; & 415/673-7779; p. 107) is one of the best, and most romantic, restaurants in the state. Delfina (3621 18th St.; & 415/552-4055) offers consistently good I talian food in a lively, hip setting; after dinner , you’ll be steps away fr om the bars and nightlife of the Mission District. Best for a N ice D inner with O lder Kids: A16 (2355 Chestnut St.; & 415/ 771-2216) has terrific wood-fir ed pizzas and an enticing I talian menu, but the hopping vibe will be best appr eciated by older kids. See p. 134. Another great spot to take older childr en is Town Hall (342 Howard St.; & 415/ 908-3900). They’ll appr eciate the inventive all-American menu and the sophisticated, but liv ely, dining scene. See p. 113. Best for a N ice D inner with the Grandparents: We r egularly take grandparents to Antica Trattoria (2400 Polk S t.; & 415/928-5797). The uncomplicated Tuscan cuisine is top quality, and the elegant, but unpr etentious, ambience is per fect for r elaxed dinner conv ersation. Another place many older patr ons appr eciate is McCormick & K uleto’s (900 N orth Point St.; & 415/929-1730), with its well-prepared classic dishes and stellar view. See p. 140 and p. 130. Best for Big Groups: If the whole family is in town, head on over to Kokkari Estiatorio (200 J ackson S t.; & 415/ 981-0983). The spacious dining r oom in back can fit ev en the largest par ties, and private dining rooms are also a possibility. The delightful G reek menu includes appetiz ers that ar e per fect for sharing and main courses to please every taste. See p. 121. Best P izza: F or N eapolitan woodoven-fired pizza that tastes good ev en
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• Best Chinese in Chinato wn: The 13 R&G Lounge gets my nod because of its authentic and r efreshingly differ ent menu (631 K earny S t.; & 415/9827877). See p. 120. • Best Chinese N ot in Chinato wn: In offering an out-of-Chinato wn choice, I’m going to make a plug for Dragon Well (2142 Chestnut S t.; & 415/4746888), which offers Chinese food that has been “California-iz ed,” with an emphasis on v ery fr esh, high-quality ingredients and a lot less gr ease. S ee p. 136. • Best D im Sum: S an Franciscans seem to be equally divided as to wher e to get the best dim sum. Many insist it’s to be found at Ton Kiang in the Richmond District (5821 G eary B lvd.; & 415/ 387-8273). See p. 152. If you just can’t head out that way during your stay, rest 1 assured. It’s a bit mor e expensiv e than Ton Kiang, but I’ m also a big fan of Yank Sing (101 Spear St., in the Rincon Center; & 415/957-9300). See p. 124. To help familiariz e your kids with dim sum, check out the box “Kids’ Guide to Dim Sum,” below. • Best Thai: By far our fav orite is Osha Thai R estaurant (2033 U nion S t., & 415/567-6742). Just thinking about their pad see ew noodles makes my mouth water. See p. 137. • Best E thnic R estaurant for K ids: If the ar ched ceilings, hand-painted Arabesque plates, and delectable Moroccan menu at Aziza (5800 G eary B lvd.; & 415/752-2222) aren’t exotic enough, head into the back r oom, which is full of North African–styled sofas and cushions. B etter y et, wait until 7pm on weekends, when the belly dancer arrives. See p. 149. • Best Italian: For a terrific family meal, Trattoria Contadina (1800 Mason St.; & 415/982-5728) offers hear ty pastas and a friendly ma-and-pa atmospher e. See p. 127. For truly exceptional Italian
H O W TO F E E L L I K E A S A N F R A N C I S CO FA M I LY
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without cheese, y ou can ’t beat A16 (2355 Chestnut St.; & 415/771-2216). See p. 134. The thin-crust pizzas at Pizzeria Delfina (3611 18th S t.; & 415/ 437-6800) include six mouth-watering standards and two tempting daily specials—all wor th or dering. S ee p . 146. For a tr ue-blue slice of American-style cheesy pizza that kids lo ve, ZA P izza (1919 H yde S t.; & 415/771-3100) takes the cake—or , pie, as it w ere. See p. 141. Best B arbecue: N o whining and no deconstructing the barbecue sauce: you’re not in Kansas City , Dorothy. In San F rancisco, w e think Memphis Minnie’s (576 Haight St.; & 415/8647675) does a fine job of smoking brisket and ribs. The slaw is good, too . See p. 144. Best Vegetarian: You can’t beat Greens (Building A, Fort Mason; & 415/7716222) for ex cellent meatless cuisine— not to mention a lo vely, air y dining room and fabulous vie ws. S ee p . 133. Greens offers v egan dishes as w ell, but for those wishing to av oid any animal products whatsoever, Millennium (580 Geary S t.; & 415/345-3900) is the choice. See p. 108. I f that’s not ear thy enough for you, try the all-raw menu at Café Gratitude (1336 9th Ave.; & 415/ 683-1346). Best Bakery: Tartine (600 Guerrero St.; & 415/487-2600) actually has to advertise when its bread comes out of the oven (after 4pm, by the way). Otherwise, folks would be hanging ar ound all day to get a loaf of walnut br ead, which sells out immediately. See p. 148. Best C afe: N ot that kids r eally dig hanging out at cafes, but our kids (and plenty of other customers’ kids) love the croissants at Boulange de P olk (2310 Polk S t.; & 415/345-1107). They munch happily while parents sip cafe au lait and people watch from the sidewalk tables. See p. 140.
14 H O W TO F E E L L I K E A S A N F R A N C I S CO FA M I LY
Kids’ Guide to Dim Sum
THE BEST DINING BETS
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For some reason, the whole c ommunal aspect of dim sum seems t o make my kids more adventurous. Waiters come with plates of food and everyone seated decides whether or not t o go f or it. When a plat e is plac ed in the middle of the table, you’re all in on the fun of tr ying it t ogether. Of course, it helps that we’ve figured out what w e think our k ids will like and ha ve learned t o avoid anything that c ould truly shock them. I’ m passing this k nowledge on t o you with a list of dim sum that most first-timers will definit ely enjo y. And if y ou see fresh-steamed asparagus, snow pea shoots, or any other vegetables being offered, order them as w ell. They are all ex cellent. • Har gau: Shrimp dumplings encased in a transluc ent wrapper and st eamed • Siu mai: Rec tangles of pork and shrimp in a sheer noodle wrapper • Gau choi gau: Chives, alone or with shrimp or scallops • Jun jui k au: R ice pearl balls with seasoned g round pork and ric e • Law mai gai: Stick y ric e with bits of meat and mushr ooms wrapped in a lotus leaf • Char siu bau: Steamed pork buns—bits of barbecued meat in a dough y roll • Guk char siu ban: Baked pork buns—bits of barbecued meat in a glaz roll
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• Chun guen: Spring r olls—smaller, less cr owded versions of egg r olls • Gau ji: Pot stickers—a thick , crescent-shaped dough filled with g round pork
cuisine, y ou can do no better than Antica Trattoria (2400 Polk St.; & 415/ 928-5797). See p. 140. • Best Fish: At Great Eastern (649 Jackson St.; & 415/986-2500) your dinner gets plucked fr om the fish tanks in the back of the dining r oom, so ther e’s no question the fish is fr esh. S ee p . 118. The longtime favorite of city hall mo vers and shakers, Hayes S treet G rill (320 Hayes St.; & 415/863-5545) uses the Bay Area’s finest pur veyors of fish, meat, and produce and puts out bright, simple plates of r ecognizable food. S ee p. 132. • Best Mexican: Mamacita (2317 Chestnut S t.; & 415/346-8494) ser ves ultra-fresh, flavorful Mexican specialties and makes an ex cellent guacamole. S ee
p. 135. F or inexpensiv e M exican food with a vie w, y ou could do no better than Mijita (O ne Ferry B uilding, No. 44; & 415/399-0814; p. 161), created by one of SF’s most renowned chefs. See p. 125. F or a humble but terrific burrito, head do wn to the M ission to La Corneta Taqueria (2731 M ission S t.; & 415/643-7001). See p. 147. • Best Ice Cream: And the winner is . . . Mitchell’s (688 San Jose Ave.; & 415/ 648-2300) for cr eamy, luscious ice creams in flav ors both ex otic (bab y coconut, sw eet corn) and comfor ting (Mexican chocolate, vanilla). See p. 147. • Best Afternoon Tea: Treat the kids to a special child-friendly tea menu at the Fairmont H otel’s Laur el Cour t (950 Mason S t.; & 415/772-5259). S ee
restaurant feels like you’re outdoors. See p. 150. A much smaller outdoor dining area next to a pleasant lawn can be found at Town’s End (2 Townsend St.; & 415/512-0749). See p. 123. • Best Delivery: For basic I talian at terrific prices deliv ered to y our hotel or home, Pasta Pomodoro (1875 U nion St. and other locations; & 415/7717900) is a v ery good thing. I ts salads and fresh vegetables really round out a meal. See p. 137.
15 H O W TO F E E L L I K E A S A N F R A N C I S CO FA M I LY
p. 118. Closer in tone to an E nglish village teashop is Lovejoy’s Tea Room (1351 Church St.; & 415/648-5895), often filled with ladies having a tête-àtête and little girls practicing to be big girls. See p. 148. • Best O utdoor D ining: The v ery best outdoor dining area belongs to the Park Chalet (1000 G reat Hwy .; & 415/ 386-8439), which opens onto an expansive garden at the western edge of Golden G ate P ark. I n fact, with glass walls and a glass ceiling, the whole
1 THE BEST DINING BETS
2
Planning Your Trip to San Francisco Planning a trip is half the fun. I t’s also critical, especially when you’re
dealing with a gr oup whose members may all hav e differ ent inter ests. M ake the kids active participants in your upcoming adventure by talking through the activities you can all enjoy. This chapter provides updated information on those activities, with details on when to go and how to get there.
1 V I S I TO R I N F O R M AT I O N The San Francisco Convention and Visitors Bureau, 900 Market St. (at Powell St.), Hallidie Plaza, Lower Level, San Francisco, CA 94102 (& 415/391-2000; www.onlyinsan francisco.com), is the best source of specialized information about the city. Even if you don’t hav e a specific question, y ou might want to r equest the fr ee Visitors P lanning Guide and the S an F rancisco Visitors Kit. You can also check online for specific
information and sign up for the bur eau’s monthly ne wsletter, which lists upcoming local events and special trav el offers. If you need specific information faxed to you, you can call & 800/220-5747; follo w the prompts to receive information by fax only. The bur eau highlights only its members ’ establishments, so if it doesn ’t hav e what you’re looking for , that doesn ’t necessarily mean it doesn’t exist.
2 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS PASSPORTS
For information on how to get a passport, go to “Passports” in the “ Fast Facts” section in the appendix at the end of this book—the w ebsites listed pr ovide do wnloadable passpor t applications as w ell as the curr ent fees for pr ocessing passpor t applications. I nternational visitors can obtain a visa application at the w ebsite of the U.S. S tate D epartment at http:// travel.state.gov.
VISAS
For information on ho w to get a Visa, go to “ Visas” in the “ Fast Facts” section of the appendix.
The U.S. S tate Department has a Visa Waiver Program allo wing citiz ens of the following countries (at press time) to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, A ustralia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Denmark, Finland, France, G ermany, I celand, I reland, I taly, Japan, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Monaco, the N etherlands, N ew Z ealand, N orway, Portugal, S an M arino, S ingapore, S lovenia, S pain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. Citizens of these nations need only a v alid passpor t and a r oundtrip air or cruise ticket upon arrival. If they first enter the United States, they may also visit M exico, Canada, B ermuda, and/or
MEDICAL REQUIREMENTS
CUSTOMS
What You Can Bring Into San Francisco
Every visitor mor e than 21 y ears of age may bring in, fr ee of duty, the follo wing: (1) 1 liter of wine or har d liquor; (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3)
What You Can Take Home from San Francisco
Canadian Citizens For a clear summar y of Canadian r ules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada B order S ervices A gency (& 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/ 983-3500; www.cbsa.gc.ca). Canada allows its citizens a C$750 exemption, and you’re allowed to bring back duty-fr ee 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, 1.14 liters of liquor or 1.5 liters of wine. I n addition, y ou’re allowed to mail gifts to Canada v alued at less than C$60 a day , pr ovided they ’re unsolicited and don’t contain alcohol or tobacco (write on the package “U nsolicited gift, under $60 v alue”). All v aluables should be declared on the Y-38 form befor e departure fr om Canada, including serial numbers of valuables you already own, such as expensive for eign cameras. N ote: The $750 exemption can only be used once a year and only after an absence of 7 days. U.K. Citizens U.K. citiz ens r eturning fr om a non-EU country have a customs allowance of: 200 cigarettes; 50 cigars; 250 grams of smoking tobacco; 4 liters of still table wine; 1 liter of spirits or strong liqueurs (over 22%
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2 ENTRY REQUIREMENTS
Unless you’re arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or y ellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not r equired for entr y into the U nited S tates. I f y ou hav e a medical condition that r equires syringeadministered medications, carr y a v alid signed prescription from your physician— the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) no longer allows airline passengers to pack syringes in their carry-on baggage without documented proof of medical need. If you have a disease that requires treatment with narcotics, y ou should also carr y documented pr oof with y ou—smuggling narcotics aboar d a plane is a serious offense that carries severe penalties in the U.S. For HIV-positive visitors, r equirements for entering the U nited S tates ar e somewhat v ague and change fr equently. For up-to-the-minute information, contact AIDSinfo (& 800/448-0440 or 301/ 519-6616 outside the U.S.; www.aidsinfo. nih.gov) or the Gay Men’s Health Crisis (& 212/367-1000; www.gmhc.org).
$100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to trav elers who spend at least 72 hours in the U nited States and who hav e not claimed them within the pr eceding 6 months. It is forbidden to bring into the country foodstuffs (par ticularly fr uit, cooked meats, and canned goods) and plants (v egetables, seeds, tr opical plants, and the like). Foreign tourists may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or for eign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declar ed to U.S. C ustoms on entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Bor der P rotection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (& 877/227-5511 or 703/ 526-4200; www.cbp.gov).
P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO S A N F R A N C I S CO
the Caribbean islands and r eturn to the United S tates without a visa. F urther information is av ailable fr om any U.S. embassy or consulate. Canadian citiz ens may enter the United States without visas; they need only proof of residence. Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a v alid passpor t that expir es at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the United States, and (2) a tourist visa, which may be obtained without charge from any U.S. consulate.
P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO S A N F R A N C I S CO
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W H E N TO G O
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volume); 2 liters of for tified wine, sparkling wine, or other liqueurs; and £300 of all other goods, including per fume and souvenirs. P eople under 17 cannot hav e the tobacco or alcohol allo wance. F or more information, contact HM C ustoms & E xcise at & 0845/010-9000 (fr om outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk. Australian Citizens The duty-fr ee allo wance in Australia is A$900 or, for those under 18, A$450. Citizens can bring in 250 cigar ettes or 250 grams of loose tobacco, and 2.25 liters of alcohol. I f y ou’re r eturning with v aluables you alr eady o wn, such as for eign-made cameras, y ou should file form B263. A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or C ustoms offices is Know Before You Go. For mor e information, call the Australian C ustoms S ervice at & 1300/363-263, or log on to www . customs.gov.au.
New Zealand Citizens The duty-free allowance for New Zealand is NZ$700. Citizens over 17 can bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco (or a mixture of all 3 if their combined w eight doesn ’t ex ceed 250g); plus 4.5 liters of wine and beer , or 1.125 liters of liquor. New Zealand currency does not carry import or export restrictions. Fill out a certificate of export, listing the valuables you ar e taking out of the countr y; that way, y ou can bring them back without paying duty. Most questions are answered in a fr ee pamphlet av ailable at N ew Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand C ustoms G uide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17–21 Whitmore S t., Bo x 2218, Wellington ( & 04/473-6099 or 0800/ 428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).
3 W H E N TO G O Because summer is when most kids hav e vacation, you may be planning to visit San Francisco sometime betw een June and August. Just be warned that the city is at its foggiest at that time. The good news is that most of California is v ery warm then—so if y our trip includes other stops in the state, y ou may ev en w elcome the city’s brisk morning fog. Expect cr owds ar ound F isherman’s Wharf and on the F-M arket str eetcars. Book Alcatraz Island tickets at least 1 week ahead of time and, after 9am, expect to wait in long lines to boar d the P owell Street cable cars. F ortunately, because San Francisco sees fe wer conv entions in the summer, you may actually get better hotel rates at the business-oriented hotels downtown (although not at F isherman’s Wharf ).
The city puts on a show all summer and into fall, with music and dance festiv als, street fairs, and special events. Yerba Buena Center, one of the best places for families, offers free world-class concer ts in the gardens. I t’s also prime baseball season; if you’re all fans, you’ll be delighted to spend the afternoon at AT&T Park. September and O ctober are usually great months in S an F rancisco; the fog disappears and the air is warm. O f course, school schedules may be an issue, but perhaps you can fit in a long w eekend in the city. Fall brings a huge spike in conventions, but business is normally conducted during the w eek, leaving hotels to offer weekend packages and discounts. If y ou can handle the v agaries of the weather, winter is a terrific season to visit. You’ll feel like you have the city to yourself
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Tips C onvention Info
the American Conser vatory Theater gives Scrooge nightmar es in its annual per formances of A Christmas C arol. The air is crisp, the temperatures cool. You won’t go home with a tan, but you can have quite a bit of fun. Spring sees a full calendar of meetings at the M oscone Conv ention Center, but, as in the fall, hotel rooms become available for leisure travelers on the w eekends. San Francisco w eather is best in late spring, and Golden Gate Park is particularly beautiful at that time, with trees budding in the Strybing Arbor etum and the cherr y tr ees blossoming in the Japanese Tea Garden. For up-to-the-minute w eather r eports, log onto www.sfgate.com/weather.
San Francisco’s Average Temperatures (°F/°C) and Rainfall (in.) Temp (°F) Temp (°C) Rainfall (in.)
Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug 58/46 61/49 62/49 65/50 65/51 68/53 68/54 69/56 14/8 16/9 17/9 18/10 18/11 20/12 20/12 21/13 4.7 4.2 3.4 1.3 .5 .13 .04 .3
Sept Oct Nov Dec 71/56 70/55 64/51 59/47 22/13 21/13 18/11 15/8 11.2 3 3 3.2
KIDS’ FAVORITE SAN FRANCISCO EVENTS If you have any flexibility in scheduling y our trip, some events, such as the Chinese New Year Parade, are so special that it might be w orth t weaking your dat es t o fit them in. I t’s also fun t o discover that an ev ent or per formance just happens t o be slated during your visit. You can peruse a calendar of ev ents published by the Convention and Visitors Bur eau at w ww.onlyinsanfrancisco.com/calendar. I n addition, you can subscribe t o w ww.gocitykids.com, which off ers a w eekly e -mail calendar, and also has a calendar y ou can search by date, with information and phone numbers for all events listed. Things change, so if y our heart is set on par ticipating in any events listed below, phone or check the sponsoring organization’s website for dates and times.
J ANUARY Anniversary of the S ea Lions’ Arrival at PIER 39. Sure, you can watch these pinnipeds loll ar ound, sunbathe, and
bark at one another most of the y ear, but January is the month they arrived at PIER 39. (They came for the herring in 1990.) Toward the middle of the
2 K I D S’ FAV O R I T E S A N F R A N C I S CO E V E N T S
during w eekdays when ev eryone else is at work. On the weekends, folks from the surrounding ar eas make their way into to wn for shopping and theater. San Francisco is a delight after Thanksgiving, as Union Square puts up a massiv e Christmas tr ee and surrounding stores dress themselves up in festive decorations. In November, Chinatown merchants hold a night market fair at Portsmouth S quare on S aturdays until 11pm, and shoppers hav e a field day finishing up their holiday shopping. In December, some hotels, such as the Ritz-Carlton, hold childr en’s holiday teas, and an outdoor ice skating rink opens at the E mbarcadero Center . The S an F rancisco B allet dusts off The Nutcracker and
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The San Francisco Convention & Visitors Bureau publishes a summary list of major conventions and trade shows on its website, www.sfvisitor.org/convention. It’s wise to check it out before you cement your travel dates, just to find out if you’re likely to be competing with your orthodontist or attorney for a hotel room.
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month, P IER 39 honors these mammoth mammals with a special party and guests from the M arine Mammal Center. Call & 415/705-5500 or visit www. pier39.com. FEBRUARY Chinese New Year Festival and Parade is a memorable 2-week event culminating in the ex citing, loud, and lengthy Chinese New Year’s parade do wn Market Street to Columbus A venue on the final Saturday evening. Spectators pack the side walks, so y ou’ll want to find a good spot early on. Chinato wn itself is filled with color and bustles ev en more than usual, with families buying food for holiday dinners and special r ed envelopes to fill with New Year’s gifts of money for the kids. Call the Chinese Chamber of Commerce at & 415/9823071 or visit www .chineseparade.com. Note: Depending on the Chinese lunar calendar, this event sometimes occurs in early March. Coinciding with Valentine’s D ay in mid-February, P IER 39 hosts Tulipmania, featuring mor e than 39,000 tulips throughout the pier. The amazing diversity in siz e, shape, and color is something to behold. Visitors ar e w elcome to join complimentar y landscaping tours each day at 10am. Call& 415/ 705-5500 or visit www.pier39.com. M ARCH The St. Patrick’s Day Parade that runs along Market Street to the Civic Center is always lively. There’s a large expatriate Irish community in town, and Ireland’s patron saint traditionally gets his due here. Call & 415/675-9885 or visit www.uissf.org. A PRIL On Easter S unday, the festiv e Union Street Easter P arade & S pring Celebration, between Gough and F illmore streets, includes pony rides, a petting zoo, kids’ rides and games, a climbing
wall, a kids ’ activities ar ea, costumed characters, and a parade. Phone & 800/ 310-6563 or visit www.sresproductions. com/union_street_easter.html. Japantown has held an annual Cherry Blossom Festival since 1967. The festival takes place o ver 2 w eekends and offers many ev ents for families, including demonstrations of traditional dance, taiko dr umming, tea cer emonies, and flower arrangement. There’s also a parade, copious food, and, of course, beautiful trees in bloom. Call & 415/ 563-2313 or visit www.nccbf.org. M AY Cinco de Mayo (5th of May) is a major Mexican festiv al celebrating the B attle of P uebla against F rench occupation forces in 1862. A parade down Mission Street is follo wed by a festiv al at Civic Center P laza with music, ar ts, crafts, low-rider cars, and delicious food that most kids will lo ve. The parade is fr ee; the festival has a small admission charge of ar ound $5 for adults (fr ee for kids under 12). Visit www .sfcincodemayo. com. This fiesta is more family-oriented than Carnaval (www.carnaval.com) later in the month, which is wilder and very crowded. The Youth Arts Festival is a w eeklong exhibition of the visual, per forming, and literar y ar ts b y middle school and high school students thr oughout the city. The opening day of the festiv al, which takes place at Yerba Buena Center, is the most ex citing, with activities and an awards presentation. Admission is fr ee. Call & 415/543-1718 or visit www.ybgf.org. Bay to B reakers started after the 1906 earthquake as a way to boost the city ’s spirits and r emains today the longest consecutively run footrace in the world. Although the ev ent, held on the thir d Sunday in May, attracts top-level international athletes, what will interest your
kids ar e the thousands of par ticipants donned in the wackiest outfits imaginable. Call & 415/359-2800 or visit www.ingbaytobreakers.com.
2 K I D S’ FAV O R I T E S A N F R A N C I S CO E V E N T S
A UGUST Nihonmachi Street Fair, a celebration of the B ay Ar ea’s div erse Asian and Pacific American communities, occurs on 1 Saturday and Sunday each August in J apantown, on P ost S treet betw een Laguna and F illmore str eets. AsianAmerican artisans show their creations, and the “F ood Fest” features the cooking of Asia and the P acific I slands. A children’s ar ea includes games and the opportunity to learn traditional ar ts and crafts. Call & 415/771-9861 or visit www.nihonmachistreetfair.org. S EPTEMBER Ghirardelli S quare Chocolate F estival is an annual benefit for O pen H and, a worthy local charity that delivers food to homebound AIDS patients. Chocoholics wander fr om one tasting to another , provided by local shops and r estaurants. Serious eaters can enter the sundae-eating contest. The priz e is the winner ’s weight in chocolate! Call & 415/7755500 or visit www.ghirardellisq.com. San Francisco B lues Festival is a fun weekend at Fort Mason. The festival is complete with food and a fe w booths with T-shirts and CDs, but the draw is the excellent roster of local and national blues musicians and the setting. F or information and tickets call & 415/ 979-5588 or visit www.sfblues.com. Sandcastle Classic, an annual fundraiser for Leap , an ar tists-in-residence pr ogram, turns Ocean Beach into a fantastical canv as for sand castles, pyramids,
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J UNE Union Street Art Festival, usually held around the end of May or beginning of June, includes special childr en’s ar t activities among all the food, wine, and crafts booths and music stages. This is a particularly cr owded str eet fair and parking is next to impossible, so come by public transpor tation and foot. Call & 800/310-6563 or visit www .union streetfestival.com. The Haight-Ashbury S treet F air features tie-dy e galor e, food, enter tainment, and the color ful pr esence of neighborhood characters. A dmission is free. Call & 415/863-3489 or visit www.haightashburystreetfair.org. The Ethnic D ance F estival is usually held the last 3 w eekends in J une and takes place at the P alace of F ine Ar ts behind the E xploratorium. M usic and dance gr oups fr om all o ver the world entertain. Tickets are $22 to $44. Call & 415/474-3914 or visit www .ethnic dancefestival.org. Stern Grove Midsummer Music Festival is one of the gr eat free events of the summer. All sor ts of per formances— opera, Latin music, jazz—are held Sunday afternoons at 2pm in S igmund Stern Grove at 19th A venue and S loat Boulevard. The venue is easily r eached on M-Oceanview or K-I ngleside Muni streetcars or the 27-Monterey bus. Bring a picnic and a blanket. Call & 415/ 252-6252 or visit www.sterngrove.org. J ULY As the largest fr ee jazz festiv al on the west coast, stretching over 8 blocks, the Fillmore S treet J azz F estival draws more than 90,000 visitors o ver the July 4 w eekend. You can listen to music performed on sev eral stages, vie w ar t
and crafts on display, and taste from all over the world. Call & 800/731-0003 or visit www .fillmorestreetjazzfestival. com. On the Fourth of July itself, the Waterfront Festival takes place ar ound PIER 39 and at Ghirardelli Square and culminates in a fir eworks show beginning at 9pm. Call & 415/705-5500 or visit www.pier39.com.
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wild animals, and flights of fancy. It usually takes place at the end of the month, but sometimes occurs in O ctober. Admission is fr ee, but donations ar e appreciated. Call & 415/512-1899 or visit www.leap4kids.org. O CTOBER San Francisco Comedy D ay Celebration at G olden G ate P ark’s S haron Meadow brings together at least 30 comedians for a S unday afternoon full of laughter. Call & 415/820-1570 or visit www.comedyday.com. Fleet W eek, the second w eekend of October, honors the armed for ces and usually brings the B lue Angels to our skies. Plenty of other astonishing aerial acrobatics, the kind that elicit gasps from the cr owd, ar e also on display . PIER 39 presents music and additional fleet w eek activities. Victoria Park is a prime vie wing ar ea, with food stands and a big screen set up for ultra close-up shots. F or a detailed listing of ev ents, call & 650/599-5057 or see www.fleet week.us. San Francisco Italian Heritage Parade celebrates Christopher Columbus’s contribution to our fair land with a 12:30pm parade beginning at J efferson and S tockton str eets and ending at Washington S quare, wher e the festivities continue. Visit www .sfcolumbus day.org. Halloween almost seems like an official city holiday in San Francisco. The Randall Museum Family Halloween Fest is a daytime ev ent on the S aturday
before H alloween for 2- to 12-y earolds. Pumpkin car ving, enter tainment, and crafts are among the day’s offerings at this local treasure. Costumes are most appropriate. Call & 415/554-9600 or visit www.randallmuseum.org. Down at Yerba Buena Gardens, little ones will be pleased with the Gardens H alloween Costume Walk, wherein costumed kiddos collect goodies while it ’s still daylight. This takes place the Sunday before Halloween. Call & 415/543-1718 or visit www.ybgf.org. N OVEMBER The Embarcadero Center Lighting Ceremony and Celebration on the Friday before Thanksgiving is fun if you can get close enough to watch the performances in the ice skating rink. If you can’t make it for the building lighting (the four towers gleam during the holiday season), the rink is open for public skating until after the New Year. Skates, for feet of all sizes, may be rented at the ticket booth. Ritz-Carlton Teddy Bear Teas for children always sell out, especially if y ou can only attend on a w eekend. The holiday teas star t after Thanksgiving, but y ou can make r eservations beginning in August; call & 415/773-6198. D ECEMBER Christmas at S ea, especially suited to children under 10, takes place on board the historic ships docked at the H yde Street Pier (p. 170), and offers singing, cider, and stories. Call & 415/5616662 or visit www.maritime.org.
4 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND GETTING THERE
By Plane
The two major airpor ts closest to S an Francisco are San Francisco International
(SFO), which is 14 miles south of do wntown, and Oakland I nternational Airport (O AK), acr oss the B ay B ridge off Interstate 880. SFO is closer , and mor e airlines fly into this major hub. Oakland is
Tips
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Kids with Colds
Getting Through the Airport
With the federalization of airport security, security pr ocedures at U.S. airpor ts are mor e stable and consistent than ev er.
Generally, you’ll be fine if you arrive at the airport 1 hour befor e a domestic flight and 2 hours before an international flight; if you show up late, tell an airline employee and she’ll probably whisk you to the front of the line. Bring a current, go vernment-issued photo ID such as a driver’s license or passport. Keep your ID at the ready to show at check-in, the security checkpoint, and sometimes even the gate. Childr en under 18 do not need go vernment-issued photo IDs for domestic flights, but they do for international flights to most countries. The TSA has phased out gate check-in at all U.S. airports. Passengers with e-tickets can still beat the ticket-counter lines by using airport electronic kiosks or online check-in from your home computer. Ask your airline which alternativ es ar e av ailable, and if you’re using a kiosk, bring the credit card you used to book the ticket or your frequent-flier card. If you’re checking bags or looking to snag an exit-r ow seat, you will be able to do so using most airlines’ kiosks; again, call y our airline for up-to-date information. Curbside checkin is also a good way to av oid lines, although a fe w airlines still ban curbside check-in; call before you go. Security checkpoint lines ar e getting shorter, but some doozies r emain. I f y ou have trouble standing for long periods of
2 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND
smaller and easier to navigate, but fares for cabs and shuttle buses into the city ar e about 50% higher. It’s worth checking y our options flying into either airpor t, as y ou’ll sometimes find a cheaper or mor e conv enient flight arriving in Oakland. The Oakland airport also often enjo ys better w eather than S an Francisco, wher e flights can be delay ed due to foggy conditions or be r elegated to circling the skies while waiting for an available runway. The great news at SFO is the beautiful ne w I nternational Terminal and the BART extension. Airlines that fly into the B ay Ar ea include Air C anada (& 888/247-2262; www.aircanada.ca), Alaska (& 800/2527522; www .alaskaair.com), American (& 800/433-7300; www.aa.com), British Airways (& 800/247-9297; www .ba. com), Continental (& 800/525-0280; www.continental.com), Delta (& 800/ 221-1212; www .delta.com), JetBlue (& 800/538-2583; www .jetblue.com), Northwest (& 800/225-2525; www.nwa. com), Southwest (& 800/435-9792; www. southwest.com), United (& 800/2416522; www .ual.com), and US Air ways (& 800/428-4322; www.usairways.com).
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It’s even more difficult for kids to make their ears pop during takeoff and landing than it is for adults. The Eustachian tube is especially narrow in children, and the passage is even tighter when mucous membranes are swollen. This can make ascent and descent especially painful—even dangerous—for a child with congested sinuses. If your little one is suffering from a cold or the flu, it’s best to keep him grounded until he recuperates, if that’s an option. If you simply must travel with your child as scheduled, give him an oral child’s decongestant an hour before ascent and descent or administer a spray decongestant before and during takeoff and landing.
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time, tell an airline emplo yee; the airline will provide a wheelchair . Speed up security by not wearing metal objects such as big belt buckles. I f y ou’ve got metallic body par ts, a note fr om y our doctor can prevent a long chat with the security screeners. Keep in mind that only ticketed passengers are allowed past security. Federalization has stabiliz ed what you can carr y on and what y ou can ’t. The general r ule is that sharp things ar e out, nail clippers are okay, and food and beverages must be passed thr ough the X-ray machine—but that security screeners can’t make y ou drink fr om y our coffee cup . Bring food in y our carr y-on rather than checking it, as explosiv e-detection machines used on checked luggage hav e been kno wn to mistake food (especially chocolate, for some r eason) for bombs. Travelers in the U.S. are allowed one carryon bag, plus a “ personal item” such as a purse, briefcase, or laptop bag. Carr y-on hoarders can stuff all sorts of things into a laptop bag; as long as it has a laptop in it, it’s still consider ed a personal item. The Transportation S ecurity A dministration (TSA) has issued a list of r estricted items; check its w ebsite ( www.tsa.gov) for details. Airport screeners may decide that y our checked luggage needs to sear ched b y hand. You can now purchase luggage locks that allow screeners to open and r e-lock a checked bag if hand-searching is necessary. Look for Travel S entry cer tified locks at luggage or trav el shops and B rookstone stores (you can buy them online at www . brookstone.com). These locks, appr oved by the TSA, can be opened b y luggage inspectors with a special code or key . For more information on the locks, visit www. travelsentry.org. I f y ou use something other than TSA-approved locks, your lock will be cut off your suitcase if a TSA agent needs to hand-search your luggage.
Getting Into Town From the Airport
San Francisco International Airport (SFO) SFO (www .flysfo.com) consists of four main terminals: N orth ( Terminal 3), South (Terminal 1), Central (Terminal 2), and I nternational. The baggage lev el of each terminal also houses an information booth. Bank of America operates a branch on the mezzanine level of the North terminal, and y ou can locate A TMs on the upper lev el of all terminals. The number for general infor mation is & 650/8218211; for transit infor mation call & 650/817-1717. The traveler’s information desk in each terminal can also giv e you information on ho w to get wher e you’re going. To access the R ental Car Center fr om the Airpor t terminals, take the AirT rain Blue Line, which operates daily 24 hours a day. AirTrain stations are located in all terminals, par king garages, the R ental Car Center, and SFO’ s BAR T station. I f y ou need a car seat (r equired for childr en who weigh less than 60 lb .), inquire when y ou make y our r ental r eservations. O nce y ou have loaded up the v ehicle, follow the airport signs to H ighway 101 N orth to driv e into San Francisco. Stay toward the left so that you don’t end up on I nterstate 280. If your destination is U nion S quare, N ob Hill, or S oMa, exit at 4th S treet. Traffic is manageable until r ush hour , fr om 3 to 7pm. If you aren’t driving, you can reach your destination b y taxi, shuttle, and BAR T. Taxis pick up passengers at the center island outside the baggage claim lev el of the airpor t. The 14-mile driv e to U nion Square takes 20 to 30 minutes depending on the time of day and should cost around $35 plus tip. Shuttle vans offer door-to-door service from the airport, but the driver may make up to thr ee stops befor e r eaching y our hotel. Shuttles pick up passengers from the
Tips
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Don’t Stow It—Ship It
Oakland International Airport (OAK) Oakland I nternational (& 510/5633300; www .flyoakland.com) consists of two terminals, one of which ( Terminal 2) is pretty much dev oted to S outhwest Airlines. Both terminals hav e A TMs and information booths. All the major rental car companies have counters inside the terminals as w ell. I f y ou ar e driving into San Francisco, exit the airpor t on H egenberger Road. Follow it nor th to I nterstate 880 to ward S an F rancisco. F rom ther e, follow the signs to I nterstate 80 to S an Francisco. When you reach the Bay Bridge, you’ll stop at a toll booth and pay $3 to cross. O n the other side, take the 5th Street exit to get to Union Square. All ground transportation at the airport is on one level. Bayporter Express (& 877/ 467-1800; www .bayporter.com) is the best choice for a shuttle. I t picks up passengers fr om Terminal 1 at the center island and fr om Terminal 2 ar ound the corner fr om baggage claim. The far e to San Francisco is $26 for one person, $38 for two in the same par ty, and $7 for kids under 12. You need to make r eservations for the 45- to 90-minute driv e. Cabs will run $40 or more depending on traffic and take 30 to 40 minutes. BART is another option. You can catch the AirBART shuttle (& 510/465-2278), which r uns ev ery 15 minutes in fr ont of either terminal. The far e is $2 for adults and 50¢ for childr en for the 15-minute ride to the O akland Coliseum BART station. From there, you’ll transfer to a BART train into San Francisco; the fare is $3.15.
2 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND
upper-level center islands; a uniformed guide will dir ect y ou to the appr opriate van. B e pr epared to wait fr om 10 to 20 minutes for the one heading in your direction. Look for exact shuttle far es posted throughout the airpor t—most ar e no w charging ar ound $13 per person, which may make a cab a better deal. SuperShuttle (& 800/258-3826; www .super shuttle.com) is my favorite of the services, and y ou don ’t need adv ance r eservations from the airpor t. ( You do need r eservations for a shuttle to the airport, however.) After years of wrangling and millions of dollars in construction, the Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART; & 510/464-6000; www. bart.gov) extension to SFO is no w operational. The airport’s BART station is located in the International Terminal. The AirTrain connects passengers to all terminals, the BART rail station, and the Rental Car Center. The BART train, which depar ts fr om the international terminal, takes about 30 minutes to r each downtown San Francisco and costs $4.95, making it b y far the most inexpensive way to r each the city . I’ m a huge fan of mass transit and would encourage you to use BART, but I have one caveat: If you’re traveling with lots of luggage and not enough hands to manage it, take a cab . Otherwise, you may end up at the P owell Street BAR T station facing a 10-minute walk to y our hotel. (S an Francisco doesn’t have huge numbers of taxis on its str eets like London or N ew York, so don ’t count on catching a cab .) I f y ou’re also dealing with tired children, the journey from BART to your lodgings isn’t going to make a wonderful start to the vacation.
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Though pricey, it’s sometimes worthwhile to travel luggage-free. Specialists in door-to-door luggage delivery include Virtual Bellhop (www.virtualbellhop. com), Luggage Express (www.usxpluggageexpress.com), and Sports Express (www.sportsexpress.com).
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Purchase y our tickets fr om w ell-marked kiosks inside the airpor t or at the BAR T station. I f y ou’re staying ar ound U nion Street, y ou’ll pr obably want to get off at the Powell Street stop.
•
Flying with Kids
If you plan carefully, you can make it fun to fly with your kids. • You’ll save yourself a good bit of aggravation by reserving a seat in the bulkhead row. You’ll hav e mor e legr oom, your children will be able to spr ead out and play on the floor under foot, and the airline might pr ovide bassinets (ask in adv ance). You’re also mor e likely to find sympathetic company in the bulkhead ar ea, as other families with children tend to be seated ther e. The only drawback is that in the bulkhead r ow you can’t always lift the armrest for little ones to rest their head on your lap. • Be sure to pack items for your kids in your carr y-on luggage, such as to ys, books, pacifiers, and che wing gum, to help them r elieve ear pr essure buildup during ascent and descent. • Have a long talk with y our childr en before y ou depar t for y our trip . I f they’ve nev er flo wn befor e, explain to them what to expect. I f they ’re old enough, you may even want to describe how flight wor ks and ho w air trav el is even safer than riding in a car . Explain to y our kids the impor tance of good behavior in the air—ho w their o wn safety can depend upon their being quiet and staying in their seats during the trip. • Pay extra car eful attention to the safety instr uctions befor e takeoff . Consult the safety chart behind the seat in fr ont of y ou and sho w it to y our children. B e sur e y ou kno w ho w to operate the o xygen masks, as y ou will be expected to secur e y ours first and then help your children with theirs. B e especially mindful of the location of
•
•
•
emergency exits. B efore takeoff , plot out an ev acuation strategy for y ou and your children. Ask the flight attendant if the plane has any special safety equipment for children. Make a member of the cr ew aware of any medical pr oblems y our children have that could manifest during flight. Be sur e y ou’ve slept sufficiently for your trip. If you fall asleep in the air and your child manages to break away, there are all sor ts of sharp objects that could cause injur y. Especially during mealtimes, it ’s danger ous for a child to be crawling or walking ar ound the cabin unaccompanied by an adult. Be sur e y our child ’s seatbelt r emains fastened properly and try to reserve the seat closest to the aisle for y ourself. This will make it har der for y our children to wander off—in case, for instance, y ou’re taking the redeye or a long flight and you do happen to nod off. You will also protect y our child fr om jostling passersb y and falling objects—in the rar e but entirely possible instance that an o verhead bin pops open. In the ev ent of an accident, unr estrained children often don’t make it— even when the par ent does. E xperience has shown that it’s impossible for a parent to hold onto a child in the ev ent of a crash, and children often die of impact injuries. For the same r eason, sudden turbulence is also a danger to a child who is not buckled into his o wn seat belt or seat r estraint. A ccording to Consumer Reports Travel Letter, the most common flying injuries r esult when unanticipated turbulence strikes and hur tles passengers from their seats. Try to sit near the lav atory, though not so close that y our children are jostled by the cr owds that tend to gather there. Consolidate trips ther e as much as possible.
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Child Seats: They’re a Must
The FAA recommends that childr en under 20 pounds ride in a r ear-facing child-restraint sy stem, and sa ys childr en that w eigh 20 t o 40 pounds should sit in a f orward-facing child-restraint system. Children over 40 pounds should sit in a r egular seat and w ear a seat belt. All child seats manufac tured af ter 1985 ar e c ertified f or airline use , but make sure your chair will fit in an airline seat—it must be less than 16 inches wide. You ma y not use boost er seats or seatless v ests or harness sy stems. Safety seats must be placed in window seats—except in exit rows, where they are pr ohibited, so as not t o block the passage of other tra velers in the case of an emer gency.
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According to Consumer Reports Travel Letter, the National Transportation Safety Board says that, sinc e 1991, the deaths of and injur y of some childr en could have been prevented had the children been sitting in restraint systems during their flights . E ven in the ev ent of moderat e turbulenc e, childr en sitting on a parent’s lap can be thrust f orward and injur ed. When y ou c onsider that a commercial aircraft hits a sig nificant amount of turbulenc e at least onc e a d ay on average, you’d do w ell to think about in vesting a f ew hundred dollars f or a safety seat.
2 • S ome airlines serve childr en’s meals first. When y ou boar d, ask a flight attendant if this is possible, especially if your children are very young or seated toward the back of the plane. After all, if your kids hav e a happy flight experience, everyone else in the cabin is more likely to as well. • You’ll cer tainly be grateful to y ourself for packing tidy snacks like rolled dried fruit, which ar e much less sticky and wet, and mor e compact and packable, than actual fr uit. Healthy granola bars are also a good alternativ e to cr umbly cookies. G ingersnaps, crisp and not as crumbly as softer cookies, will also help curb mild cases of motion sickness. And don’t forget to stash a fe w r esealable plastic bags in your purse. They’ll prove invaluable for storing ev erything fr om half-eaten crackers and fr uit to checker pieces and matchbox cars.
GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND
• T ry to accompany childr en to the lavatory. They can be easily bumped and possibly injured as they make their way do wn tight aisles. I t’s especially dangerous for children to wander while flight attendants ar e blocking passage with their ser vice car ts. O n cr owded flights, the flight cr ew may need as much as an hour to ser ve dinner . I t’s wise to encourage y our kids to use the restroom as you see the attendants pr eparing to serve. • Be sure to bring clean, self-containing compact to ys. Leav e electr onic games at home. They can inter fere with the aircraft navigational system, and their noisiness, ho wever lulling to childr en’s ears, will sur ely not win the fav or of your adult neighbors. Magnetic checker sets, on the other hand, ar e a per fect distraction, and small coloring books and crayons also wor k well, as do car d games like Go Fish.
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GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND
2
By Car
You can get to S an Francisco along thr ee major highways. Interstate 5 runs through the center of the state and intersects with Interstate 580, which leads to Interstate 80 to the B ay B ridge. The driv e fr om Los Angeles to San Francisco on I-5 is about 6 hours, and there aren’t many places to stop for food, so plan accor dingly. H ighway 101 is the other major r oadway fr om Southern California, and it ’s the r oute to use for reaching Marin County, Napa, and Sonoma, and other points nor th. The drive fr om Los Angeles to S an F rancisco on 101 takes 7 hours if y ou don ’t stop along the way. If you are taking a leisurely drive thr ough California, H ighway 1, which r uns along the coast, is the most scenic route and takes y ou by Santa Cruz and M onterey, both fun cities for kids. The trip takes at least 8 hours. Approach the city with patience if y ou have decided to motor her e. The freeways seem to become mor e crowded every day, and afternoon r ush hour on the B ay Bridge is a misnomer: no one r ushes anywhere. Traffic on the G olden Gate Bridge on the w eekends is also pr etty dr eadful. Make sure the kids hav e plenty of things to do in the car—por table cassette or CD players with books on tape and music ar e nearly as important as a spare tire. Drivers arriving fr om the east will cr oss the B ay B ridge ($4 toll) and head to ward downtown on 5th S treet or to ward North Beach and F isherman’s Wharf on F remont Street. Cars coming fr om the south on Highway 101 will see the city skyline on their left a few miles past Monster Park (the former Candlestick Park). Downtown exits here are either 7th or 4th str eets. If you’re driving from the coast heading south, you’ll enter S an F rancisco b y the G olden G ate Bridge. O nce y ou pass the tollbooth ($6 toll unless thr ee or mor e of y ou driv e through on a weekday between 4 and 6pm; at that time it ’s fr ee for carpoolers), exit along the bay to Van Ness Avenue.
By Train
Amtrak ( & 800/872-7245 or 800/USARAIL; www .amtrak.com) doesn ’t stop in San Francisco proper but lands in Emeryville or O akland (depending on the point of origin), both in the East B ay. F rom Emeryville, an Amtrak bus takes passengers into downtown San Francisco, stopping at the F erry B uilding, F isherman’s Wharf, Union S quare, and the Caltrain station. From Oakland, the Amtrak bus takes passengers to the Financial District.
GETTING AROUND
By Public Transportation
San Francisco’s Municipal Railway, known simply as “M uni” ( & 311 fr om within San F rancisco or 415/701-2311 from other locations), operates the city ’s buses, streetcars, and cable cars. F or detailed route information, call M uni or visit its website at www .sfmuni.com. Another helpful w ebsite is http://transit.511.org, which also lists schedules and r oute maps. City Buses & Str eetcars Muni str eetcars r un undergr ound ex clusively fr om Van N ess A venue to the Embarcadero and mostly abo veground in the outlying neighborhoods, fr om 6am until 1am. Five lines ( J, K, L, M, and N) make identical stops belo w Market Street, including Van Ness Avenue, Civic Center, Powell and M ontgomery str eets, and the Embarcadero. P ast Van N ess A venue the routes v eer in differ ent dir ections. The N-Judah services the Haight-Ashbury area and parallels Golden Gate Park on its way down J udah S treet to the ocean. A t the Embarcadero, this line also trav els to AT&T Park by way of King Street near the Cal Train station. The J-Church line passes near M ission D olores and the Castr o on its way to N oe Valley and points south. The L-Taraval trav els thr ough the S unset District within walking distance of the San Francisco Zoo.
29 Value
P
Easy Riding: Ways to Save on ublic Transportation
Fares on buses and str eetcars are $1.50 for adults and 50¢ for childr en 5 to 17, seniors 65 and o ver, and disabled individuals. Kids under 5 ride fr ee. Exact change is required. When you enter the front door and drop your fare into the far e box, the driver will hand you a paper transfer, valid for up to 90 minutes of rides in any direction. Turnstiles inside the undergr ound Muni stations accept only coins; change machines are located on the walls next to the BAR T ticket dispensers. Note: F ares are higher for cable cars, the C ultureBus (p. 177) and travel to Monster Park. There is no simple way to handle strollers on either buses or str eetcars, although, with the ex ception of the F-M arket cars, streetcars ar e mor e spacious. I f y ou ar e
2 GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND
The F-M arket line was star ted up in 2000 and equipped with a collection of carefully r estored vintage str eetcars fr om around the U nited S tates and E urope. These charming old-timers r un fr om the Castro all the way along M arket Street to the Embarcadero and F isherman’s Wharf. A popular method to r each the F erry building and the piers, these cars ar e packed during summer and on w eekends. Muni buses, many of which ar e connected to an o verhead electrical system, run fr om 6am until midnight. B us stops are indicated b y str eet corner signs and yellow bands painted on utility poles and curbs. Muni has 80 lines, so you can probably get to wher e y ou’d like to go . . . eventually. This isn’t exactly rapid transit.
P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO S A N F R A N C I S CO
Muni passports can be a bargain for visitors who plan to take buses, streetcars, or cable cars often. A 1-day passport is $11; a 3-day passport is $18; and a 7-day passport is $24. (U sing the passpor t for the C ultureBus requires an additional $3). Kid and senior passpor ts don’t exist, but Muni sells monthly y outh (5–17 years old) and senior (65+) passes for $10. Passports and $3 Muni maps (a necessary it em) can be pur chased at the Visitor I nformation C enter on Hallidie Plaza; at Tix Ba y Ar ea on Union S quare; at the baggage lev el inf ormation booths at SFO; at the cable car ticket booths at Powell and Market streets, Hyde and Beach str eets, and Ba y and Taylor str eets; and at sev eral drugst ores throughout the city. Passes and passports can be found at the cable car ticket booths at Powell and Market or Beach and H yde streets. Single-day passports are available on boar d the cable cars as w ell. For other outlets , check Muni ’s website at www.sfmuni.com. Dedicated tourists should c onsider investing in Citypass, which includes a 7-day Muni passport and tickets t o several attractions—all at a sig nificant discount. You’ll get admission to the California Academy of Sciences, a Blue & Gold Bay Cruise , A quarium b y the Ba y, the San F rancisco Museum of M odern Ar t, and the Exploratorium. Instead of the Exploratorium, you can opt to visit the de Young Museum or the L egion of Honor (or both, if y ou see them on the same day). If you can manage t o visit all of the abo ve, the Cit ypass price of $59 f or adults and $44 for kids age 5 to 17 is very attractive. They can be purchased at the participating attractions, at the Visitor Information Center at Halladie Plaza, or online at www.citypass.com.
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GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND
2
traveling with a bab y, an easy-to-fold umbrella stroller will be the most practical piece of equipment. I f y ou can manage with a bab y front pack or backpack, y ou’ll be ev en better off . Toddlers ar e another issue. Since you really will need a stroller at some point during a walk, y ou’ll hav e to practice r eleasing the closur e and folding the str oller while holding the child at the same time. This is ev en mor e fun if y ou have mor e than one small child to deal with. Cable Cars No visit to S an Francisco would be complete without a ride on one of the cable cars. Three cable car r outes trav erse the downtown ar ea. The most scenic is the Powell-Hyde line, star ting off at P owell and Market and ending at the turnaround by Ghirardelli Square. Next is the PowellMason line, which also begins at P owell and M arket and then meanders thr ough North B each, ending on the east side of Fisherman’s Wharf. The third is the California Street line that leav es from Market and California, cr ests at N ob H ill, and ends abr uptly at Van N ess A venue. The queues to boar d the P owell Street cars at the turnar ounds, at either end, can be daunting; but if you don’t board there, you may not get on. Tickets ar e $5 one-way (free for kids under 5 and only $1 befor e 7am and after 9pm), making those M uni passes look even better. Cable cars run from 6am to 1:30am. To avoid standing in line, plan on trav eling Tips
during off-peak hours. A gr eat idea is to wake the family early and ride the cable car to a br eakfast spot. O r take the cable car back to y our hotel after dinner . Alternatively, you could head for the California Street cars, which are less popular because the route isn’t as exciting, although the hill is quite steep . F or mor e about the cable cars, see chapter 6. BART Please note: Bay Ar ea R apid Transit (BART; & 415/989-2278) is not M uni. Both systems shar e the same undergr ound stations downtown, but the similarities end there. BART tickets are not valid on Muni and vice v ersa. The only M uni pass usable on BAR T is an adult $45 monthly F ast Pass, and only at cer tain BAR T stations. The sleek silv er-and-blue BAR T trains travel along the M arket S treet corridor , then make stops on M ission S treet (16th and 24th sts.), in G len Park, and south in Colma and the San Francisco International Airport. Other lines head to Berkeley, Oakland, and other East B ay cities. P urchase BART tickets from machines inside the stations. Fare to and fr om any point within San F rancisco is $1.50; outside the city , fares range up to $5.65. F or schedules and route information, call the number abo ve or log on to the w ebsite www.bart.gov.
By Car
Driving in S an Francisco can be fr ustrating, to say the least. I f you are unfamiliar with the territor y and y our copilot has
Feeding the Meters
Most city parking meters take nickels, dimes, and quarters, and have time limits of anywhere from 15 minutes to 4 hours. Meters that are green on top usually have 15- to 30-minute time limits. Even if you come back and put more quarters in the meter, overstaying the time limit can still be cause f or a ticket. Check your tires to make sure a meter maid has not swiped them with chalk (usually in bright orange or blue)—they do so t o see if your car has moved.
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Great Garages
Union Square Garage, 333 P ost St.; $3/first hour , $13/4 hours . Sutter-Stockton G arage, 444 St ockton St. (Union S q.); $2/first hour , $9/4 hours. Ellis-O’Farrell G arage, 123 O ’Farrell St. (Union S q.); $2.50/first hour , $11.50/4 hours. Fifth and M ission Garage, 833 M ission St. (S oMa); $3/first hour , $12/4 hours . Portsmouth S quare G arage, 733 Kearn y St. at Cla y ( Chinatown); $2.50/first hour, $9/4 hours . North Beach Garage, 735 Vallejo St. near P owell; $2.50/first hour , $9/4 hours .
P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO S A N F R A N C I S CO
When y ou appr oach a garage , r ead the sig ns car efully. You ma y see a sig n offering a cheap all- day rat e. I n fac t, that rat e ma y apply only t o cars that arrive early in the morning . A fter that, rat es can be as high as $4 ev ery 15 minutes! G arages at plac es like PIER 39 ma y adv ertise fr ee or disc ounted parking; but impossibly small writing underneath explains that validation from a st ore or r estaurant is r equired. The best rat es ar e at cit y-owned garages , many of which ar e list ed here:
2
Rental Cars There’s no r eason to r ent a car at the airport only to park it in San Francisco while you tour on foot or b y Muni. With a reservation, y ou can pick up a r ental car in the city on the day you’ll be using it. Most rental car companies will be delighted to pick you up and drop you off right at your hotel if necessar y, but many hav e offices near Union Square.
Companies that have offices downtown include Avis, 675 P ost S t. ( & 415/8855011; www.avis.com); Budget, 5 E mbarcadero Ctr . ( & 415/433-3717; www . budget.com); Enterprise, 222 M ason St. (& 415/837-1700; www.enterprise.com); Hertz, 325 Mason St. (& 415/771-2200; www.hertz.com); and Thrifty, 350 O’Farrell St. (& 415/788-8111; www.thrifty.com). Driving Rules California law r equires that both driv ers and passengers wear seat belts. Cellphones must be hands-fr ee while driving; use a headset, earphone, or speaker phone—or just pull over. Children up to age 6 or who weigh less than 60 pounds must use a car seat or booster seat. Cars may turn right on a red light (unless other wise indicated) after making a complete stop and yielding to traffic and pedestrians. Also, make a complete stop at stop signs, not a r olling stop; our local traffic police lo ve to write tickets for that seemingly innocuous offense. Cable cars and str eetcars always
GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND
issues r eading maps, y our v acation could turn chilly (or very, very loud) the moment you exit the motorway. Along with aggressive local driv ers, one-way str eets, no right/left turns when y ou really need one, and dead ends, ther e’s a decided lack of parking and too many o veranxious meter maids ready to pounce. Fortunately, it isn’t necessary to driv e to many of the places you’ll want to go. When driving is imperative, you can easily r ent a car for the day . For those of y ou who ar e arriving in the city by car, park at your hotel and do your best to use public transpor tation or walk.
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Tips
GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND
2
San Francisco Parking Secrets
• Purchase a r oll of quar ters f or the met ers and keep them in the glo ve compartment so that y ou can take advantage of an y str eet spac es y ou’re lucky enough t o encounter. • Depending on ho w long y ou plan t o stay in the cit y, you may want t o buy a $20 or $50 elec tronic car d that fits in nearly all SF park ing met ers. These can be pur chased at man y drugstores, hardware stores, some str eetcar stations, and elsewher e. You can also buy them online at w ww.sfmta.com. • Between 4 and 6pm, park ing is pr ohibited on major cr osstown roads and pretty much an ywhere do wntown. Star t cruising the F inancial Distric t, Union S quare, Nob H ill, or S oMa about 10 minut es bef ore 6pm and get ready t o pounc e on the spac e of y our choic e. • Take the first park ing spot that ’s within walk ing distanc e of y our destination. (And by walking distance I don’t mean t wo doors do wn; I mean mor e like 4 blocks .) • Street parking spaces are usually spoken f or before they ar e actually available. Watch for people walking toward cars with keys in hand and for brake lights turning on. Wait for the spac e t o open up and take it. • Pay close att ention t o str eet sig ns. I n some neighborhoods , park ing f or non-residents (those without a cit y-issued sticker on their bumper) is limited t o 1 or 2 hours . • If park ing plac es suddenly seem widely a vailable, check the sig ns. I t ma y be street sweeping time. Meter maids parade along the str eet writing $50 tickets just before the sweepers show up. Once the machines have rumbled by, you can saf ely park . • Curb your car ’s wheels when park ing on a hill: turn them t oward the curb when facing do wnhill and a way fr om the curb when park ing uphill . Although this w on’t ac tually c ontribute t o your finding a park ing plac e, it will help y ou r etain an y that y ou ha ve f ound. I t will also keep y ou fr om getting a ticket. • Be g rateful f or park ing garages and use them. Cit cheaper than privat ely owned ones.
y-owned garages ar e
• Sometimes, the old park ing k arma just isn ’t w orking. I f valet park ing is available, take it. I t’s worth it t o avoid a headache .
have the right-of-way , as do pedestrians, whether or not they use intersections and crosswalks—although if they don’t, they’re at risk for a jaywalking ticket or worse. On Market S treet, one lane is ex clusively for buses. A void driving on M arket S treet anyway, because the way the lights ar e
timed is infuriating, and y ou can’t make a left turn anywhere. Parking Park in a city-o wned garage. They seem expensive, but not compar ed to the ticket you’re going to get if y ou attempt to par k
By Taxi 33 Hailing a cab on most city str eets is a hitor-miss pr oposition, but spotting a taxi downtown is easier , especially in fr ont of hotels. When mo ving ar ound with kids, it’s probably best to phone (or hav e your hotel phone) a cab company because that’s the only way to guarantee that y ou’ll be retrieved. The major cab companies ar e Desoto C ab (& 415/970-1300), Luxor Cabs (& 415/282-4141), Metro Cab (& 415/920-0715), Veteran’s Cab (& 415/ 552-1300), and Yellow Cab (& 415/6262345). Rates star t at $3.10 when y ou enter a cab. After the first one-fifth of a mile, rates are 45¢ for each additional fifth of a mile as w ell as for each minute of waiting or traffic delay. I f y ou take a cab fr om the airport to do wntown, a $2 S an Francisco Airport exit fee is added to the far e. The approximate far e fr om the airpor t is $30 to $45, depending on wher e y ou’re stay2 ing. According to one of the companies I contacted, taxis ar e not r equired to pr ovide infant or child car seats. I f you hire a town car (for example, to bring y ou and your kids from the airport), they should be able to pr ovide one, but be sur e to ask when you make your reservation.
P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO S A N F R A N C I S CO MONEY
on the street for any length of time. Legal street parking spaces do exist; they are next to unpainted curbs and usually are accompanied b y meters. Yellow, white, gr een, and red curbs are all off limits; the ex ceptions ar e commer cial z ones (the y ellow curbs), which are open to cars after delivery hours. Pay attention to the signs liberally posted on the streets. Be very aware of tow-away zones. You cannot park on most streets do wntown betw een 4 and 6pm without r unning the risk of having y our vehicle towed. And nev er park in fr ont of a driv eway. O therwise, A utoReturn, an independent contractor for the City’s towing ser vices, may take y our v ehicle to its storage lot at 450 7th S t., between Harrison & Folsom streets. If you return to your parking space but y our car isn ’t ther e, check with A utoReturn online at www . autoreturn.com or call & 415/553-1239 to see if it ’s been to wed or mer ely stolen. It’s likely been towed, and that means you get to visit City Tow to pay the fine and the storage charges. S uch a misadv enture will r un y ou a minimum of $244 (most forms of payment accepted).
5 MONEY Like any big city , S an F rancisco doesn ’t come cheap. Hotels, food, and admission fees at attractions add up. Fortunately, as I list in chapter 6, y ou can find plenty of great food at reasonable prices if you know where to look, which is usually not in the most touristy neighborhoods. Like wise, with careful planning, you may be able to score a good deal on a hotel r oom. Lastly, San Francisco is such a beautiful city that you can do a fair amount of satisfying sightseeing without spending much money at all.
LOWERING THE COST OF FAMILY TRAVEL
Traveling with kids can r eally add to the cost of a trip . Below are some ways to cut expenses. • Reserve a hotel r oom with a kitchenette. There aren’t a lot in San Francisco, but they do exist, and if y ou use them to pr epare br eakfast or ev en a bag lunch, y ou will sav e quite a bit. A t a minimum, r equest a small fridge and coffeemaker, if y our r oom doesn ’t already have one.
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MONEY
2
What Things Cost in San Francisco
US$
UK£
Taxi from airport to Union Square (excluding tip) One-way adult Muni/bus fare to any city destination One-way youth Muni/bus fare to any city destination A 3-day adult Muni Passport (also good for cable car) Regular movie at Metreon for two adults and two kids IMAX tickets at Metreon for two adults and two kids Alcatraz tickets for two adults and two kids aged 5–11 San Francisco Zoo tickets for two adults and two kids aged 4–14 Slice of pizza Dim sum brunch for four at Ton Kiang Package of 40 Huggies disposable diapers from Walgreen’s Cone at Mitchell’s Ice Cream A fresh orange juice at the Westin St. Francis Hotel Four hours of parking in the Union Square Garage
40 1.50 0.50 18 38 54 84 48
25 1.10 0.35 14 29 41 64 36
3.50 60 13 2.65 5.75 13
2.65 45 10 1.95 4.35 10
• Be adv enturous diners. The Mission, Chinatown, and the Richmond district have wonderful, inexpensive ethnic restaurants (Mexican, Chinese, Thai, and Middle Eastern, among others) that will expand y our horiz ons without depleting your pocketbook. • Purchase a SF M unicipal R ailway (Muni) Passport (see chapter 4). And, use buses and str eetcars in lieu of r enting a car or taking taxis. • Minimize the use of a car while in the city. Parking is pr ohibitively expensiv e and fr ustrating. You’ll not only sav e money, but y ou may hav e a mor e relaxed vacation. • Take advantage of what ’s free. It may be difficult to schedule your trip around museums’ fr ee admission days, which are only once a month, but ther e ar e ways to spend a lo vely day without constantly digging into y our wallet. (See the bo x “F ree (or N early F ree) Things to D o with Your Kids in S an Francisco,” below.)
• Remember y our local memberships. Zoos, aquariums, and museums offer free or r educed admission prices if y ou are a member of y our local z oo, aquarium, and museum. F or example, the San F rancisco Z oo, the A quarium of the Bay, and the California Academy of Sciences all hav e such r eciprocal agreements. So bring your home city’s membership cards with you.
ATMS
The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is fr om an A TM (automated teller machine), sometimes referred to as a “cash machine,” or “ cashpoint.” The Cirrus (& 800/424-7787; www.mastercard. com) and PLUS (& 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networ ks span the country; y ou can find them ev en in r emote regions. The back of your bank card shows which networ k y ou’re on; y ou can then call or check online for A TM locations in San Francisco. You must kno w y our personal identification number (P IN) and daily withdrawal limit befor e you depar t.
CREDIT CARDS & DEBIT CARDS
TRAVELER’S CHECKS
Traveler’s checks are widely accepted in the U.S., but foreign visitors should make sure that they’re denominated in U.S. dollars; foreign-currency checks ar e often difficult to exchange. You can buy trav eler’s checks at most banks. Most are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. G enerally, y ou’ll pay a ser vice charge ranging from 1% to 4%. The most popular trav eler’s checks ar e offered b y American E xpress (& 800/ 221-7282 for car dholders—this number exempts Amex gold and platinum car dholders from the 1% fee.); Visa (& 800/ 732-1322)—AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up
WHAT TO DO IF YOUR WALLET IS LOST OR STOLEN
Be sure to tell all of y our credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a r eport at the near est police pr ecinct. Your cr edit card company or insur er may r equire a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if y our card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wir e you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two . Visa’s U.S. emergency number is & 800/ 847-2911 or 410/581-9994. American Express car dholders and trav eler’s check holders should call & 800/221-7282. MasterCard holders should call & 800/ 307-7309 or 636/722-7111. F or other credit car ds, call the toll-fr ee number directory at & 800/555-1212. If y ou need emergency cash o ver the weekend when all banks and American Express offices ar e closed, y ou can hav e money wir ed to y ou via Western Union (& 800/325-6000; www .westernunion. com). Identity theft or fraud ar e potential complications of losing y our wallet, especially if y ou’ve lost y our driv er’s license along with y our cash and cr edit car ds. Notify the major cr edit-reporting bureaus immediately; placing a fraud alert on your records may pr otect y ou against liability for criminal activity. The three major U.S. credit-reporting agencies ar e Equifax (& 800/685-1111; www .equifax.com),
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2 MONEY
Credit cards are the most widely used form of payment in the United States. They also provide a conv enient r ecord of y our expenses and generally offer r elatively good ex change rates. You can also withdraw cash adv ances at banks or A TMs, provided you know your PIN. Visitors fr om outside the U.S. should inquire whether their bank assesses a 1% to 3% fee on charges incurr ed abroad. It’s highly recommended that you travel with at least one major cr edit car d. You need one to rent a car, and hotels and airlines usually r equire a cr edit card imprint as a deposit against expenses.
to $1,500) at most AAA offices or b y calling & 866/339-3378; and MasterCard (& 800/223-9920). If you do carry traveler’s checks, keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You’ll get a r efund faster if you know the numbers.
P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO S A N F R A N C I S CO
Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a car d at another bank’s ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (wher e they’re rarely more than $3). I n addition, the bank fr om which y ou withdraw cash may charge its own fee. To compare banks’ ATM fees within the U.S., use www.bank rate.com. F or international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.
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Value
H E A LT H & S A F E T Y
2
Free (or Nearly Free) Things to Do with Your Kids in San Francisco
• T ake a City Guides walking tour (p. 187) in an in teresting neighborhood. • Check out the free outdoor c oncerts and ev ents at Yerba Buena G ardens Thursdays at noon and w eekends bet ween M ay and Oc tober. • Take the k ids t o Golden G ate Park’s Koret Children’s Quar ter. • Take a fr ee t our of the Strybing A rboretum and B otanical G ardens in Golden G ate Park (p. 176). • V isit the de Young Museum. Take in the impressive architecture, check out the main lobby, savor the view fr om the museum t ower, contemplate Ruth Asawa’s ethereal sculptures inside, and stroll through the inspiring sculpture garden outside —all at no c ost. • Walk across the Golden G ate Bridge. • M osey through Chinatown. The sights and sounds of this c olorful neighborhood are a cultural experienc e many people w ould pay t o have. • Visit the lovely Hyde Street Pier at no charge. Adults must pay $5 to board the ships, but k ids are free. The nearby National Maritime Visitors Center is a hit with adults and k ids, and it ’s free. • Hang out at Crissy F ield. Relish the pric eless vista while y our k ids run around on the g rassy hills or pla y at the beach. • A scend Nob Hill. Admire the stained glass at Grac e C athedral, r egard the lobby of the F airmont Hot el, and then take in the panoramic view fr om the top floor bar of the I nterContinental M ark Hopk ins Hotel.
Experian (& 888/397-3742; www . experian.com), and TransUnion (& 800/ 680-7289; www.transunion.com). Finally, if y ou’ve lost all forms of photo ID, call your airline and explain the situation; they
might allow you to board the plane if y ou have a copy of y our passport or bir th certificate and a copy of the police r eport you’ve filed.
6 H E A LT H & S A F E T Y HEALTH
Before You Go
You needn’t worry about keeping the kids, and y ourselves, healthy in S an Francisco. The water is fine to drink, the food is fresh, and no-smoking laws limit y our exposure to irritants. The main wor d of
caution is to bring warm clothes, ev en (or especially) during mid-summer , lest the fog and wind cause a family member to catch a cold. At the same time, don’t forget the sunscreen. This is California, after all, and a day of mix ed clouds and sunshine can still produce sunburn. Also, don’t forget comfortable walking shoes, as ther e’s a
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• Ride the P owell/Mason cable car t o the Cable Car Museum (p. 178) f or a close-up look at ho w the cars w ork. • View displa ys of antique equipment, ar tifacts fr om the 1906 ear thquake, and local fir efighting memorabilia at the San Francisco Fire Depar tment Museum (p. 182). • Head t o the Main Libr ary’s childr en’s wing (p. 267) or bring y our w ee ones to story hour at most public librar y branches, held ev ery day of the week except Sunday. For a schedule , check w ww.sfpl.org. • Tour the cit y on a Muni bus (see suggestions).
“Getting Ar ound,” in chapt er 4 f or
• Climb the Filbert Steps, the most famous of San Francisco’s many staircases, offering lovely view s and v erdant gardens.
• Walk down the cr ooked par t of Lombard Street.
good chance y ou’ll be tr ekking up , and down, a few hills. If y ou or y our child suffer fr om a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your depar ture. F or conditions like epilepsy, diabetes, or hear t problems, wear a MedicAlert identification tag (& 888/ 633-4298; www .medicalert.org), which will immediately aler t doctors to y our condition and giv e them access to y our records thr ough M edic Aler t’s 24-hour hotline. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carr y pr escription medications in their original containers, with pharmacy labels—other wise they won’t make it thr ough airpor t security .
Also bring along copies of y our pr escriptions in case you lose your pills or run out. Don’t forget an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses.
What To Do If S omeone in Your Family Gets Sick While Away From Home
Consult a pharmacist for minor health matters—your hotel can dir ect you to the closest dr ugstore. Walgreen’s has thr ee locations with 24-hour pharmacies: 3201 Divisadero S t. at Lombar d S treet in the Marina District ( & 415/931-6415); 498 Castro S t. at 18th S treet in N oe Valley (& 415/861-6276); and 1189 P otrero Ave. at 24th Street (& 415/647-0368). If
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• Spend Satur day morning at the Ferry Plaza F armer’s Mark et. You could almost make a meal of all the fr esh fruits, breads, spreads, and other f ood samples offered by the farmers , breeders, and bakers .
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• V isit the California P alace of the Legion of Honor , Asian A rt Museum, San Francisco Museum of Modern A rt, or de Young Museum, all are free the first Tuesday of each month. The California A cademy of S ciences, Exploratorium, and San F rancisco Z oo ar e fr ee the first Wednesday of each month , and the C ontemporary Je wish Museum is fr ee the first Monday of the month.
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your child has asthma or any medical condition that requires medication, and there’s a chance y ou’ll r equire extra inhalers, an EpiPen, or whatever, make sure you bring along a pr escription fr om y our pediatrician. I f y our child accidentally swallo ws something scar y, call the S tate P oison Control hot line, available 24 hours a day, at & 800/876-4766. Along with important medications, pack an emergency pair of glasses or contact lenses. I list hospitals and emergency numbers in the “F ast Facts” section of chapter 4. If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult y our doctor befor e y our depar ture. Pack prescription medications in y our carry-on luggage, and carr y them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels— otherwise they won ’t make it thr ough airport security. Visitors from outside the U.S. should carry generic names of pr escription drugs. F or U.S. trav elers, most r eliable health-care plans pr ovide co verage if y ou get sick away fr om home. F oreign visitors may have to pay medical costs upfr ont and be reimbursed later.
STAYING SAFE
The general cav eats about not walking alone at night, staying in well-lighted areas, and carrying a minimum of cash and jewels on your person are as true in San Francisco as in ev ery major city. Although S an Francisco isn’t crime-ridden, it is not a 24-hour town like New York, for example, and y ou could be putting y ourself at risk v enturing out at 2am. H owever, since this is a family travel book, let ’s assume y our r eal worries have to do with keeping y our children safe while on vacation. First, giv e ev eryone in y our par ty the hotel’s business car d upon arriv al, and, if you hav e a cellphone, write that number on the back of the car d. Make sure these stay in pockets or backpacks—preferably a front pocket, which is also the safest place for wallets. N ever keep v aluables in backpacks, as they can be easily and quickly yanked away. Tell y our kids that if they
turn ar ound and don ’t see y ou standing next to them, they shouldn ’t panic. They may simply have gotten disoriented in the crowd, or y ou may hav e turned out of their line of sight. When this happens, they should call out your name—not simply “M om” or “D ad”—in a clear , loud voice. The last thing you want them to do is wander off tr ying to find y ou. If you’ll be traveling with teenagers who may want some space, and who don’t have their own cellphones, consider shor t-range walkietalkies. You most often see these on ski slopes, but they ar e ideal for families that need to keep in touch. Discuss with y our kids what to do if they get lost: you don’t want them walking the streets looking for y our hotel. I f they don’t immediately spot a police officer , they might ask the nearest hotel concierge, store clerk, or restaurant hostess to help— by calling the police or y our hotel, for example. Take your child’s age and level of common sense into consideration when you think about what he or she could do in the unlikely case that he or she becomes lost. Explain whom to avoid (for example, anyone holding a sign, talking to himself or herself, or begging with dogs and cats as props) and whom to approach for help. Teenagers, who may be used to some freedom at home, ar e another matter . I f they ar en’t familiar with busy urban centers and if they hav en’t already developed some street smarts, I’d think twice befor e allowing them to wander ar ound alone even during the daytime. There are places where y ou can giv e them some space— Metreon (p. 162), the Westfield San Francisco Centr e (p . 264), and A T&T P ark (p. 265), for example—but it ’s preferable that they hang out with a companion. The streets of S an Francisco, like most big cities, ar e filled with driv ers who ar e frustrated and/or talking on their cellphones, so be car eful crossing them. This is not the city in which to play chicken with cars. Use the crosswalks, wait for the
Parts of Van N ess A venue, fr om Civic Center to Broadway Street, are grimy, and some medians ar e platforms for someone asking for money . S ixth and S eventh streets from Market Street east to Harrison Street are home to an assor tment of folks that aren’t making a go of it in mainstream society; this is an ar ea to av oid anytime, day or night. Like most of the world, S an Francisco has long had its pr oblems with r esidents who hav e dr ug and/or alcohol pr oblems, who are mentally unstable, or who live on the edge for other r easons. If you are not panhandled at some point, at the very least your children will ask you what’s going on with the crazy guy pushing a shopping cart down the street. You’ll have to make y our own choices about giving alms or not; but do be pr epared for questions fr om y our kids. Consider it a learning experience.
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FAMILY TRAVEL
breakfast, schedule time for lunch, and carry snacks with you. • You may have arrived together, but you needn’t travel in a pack. If it’s possible to split up the kids among the adults to give ev eryone a br eak, do so—ev en if just for an hour . I t can also be a nice opportunity to spend time alone with your child. • Be flexible and maintain a sense of humor. If three cable cars packed to the rafters hav e passed y ou b y, perhaps the fates are telling y ou to walk. (S ee “Getting Ar ound” in chapter 4 for mor e advice.) • Plan something for ev eryone in y our itinerary. If you want to analyze modern art at the museum, that ’s okay . J ust reward kids for their patience b y spending the afternoon r owing boats on
WORDS OF WISDOM & HELPFUL RESOURCES
7 WORDS OF WISDOM & HELPFUL RESOURCES My husband and I gr ew up mo ving from one country and city to another. Our wanderlust did not end when our childr en were born, and w e have taken them with us to places near and far . Here are tips to consider when vacationing with kids: • Family v acations ar e about spending time together and having fun. They should not be a marathon to co ver as much territor y as possible. P ick and choose what you’re going to see and do so judiciously , keeping in mind that you won’t see and do everything. • Tired people, no matter their age, ar e difficult to deal with, so keep the pace slow, plan time to rest, and don’t stay up too late at night. • Hungry people can be worse than tir ed people, so star t the day with a good
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lights, and check first to make sur e some idiot isn’t going to r un the r ed light. B e especially car eful with buses, par ticularly those making turns. Children generally lo ve riding on the streetcars and especially the cable cars. Inside the M uni/BART underground stations, keep y ourself and y our kids away from the edge of the platform. O n cable cars, y ou ar e not allo wed to hang body parts out the side, despite myriad photos showing people doing just that. I t’s an excellent way to get hur t the minute a truck or a bus passes by. Jumping on or off a moving cable car is equally danger ous. Finally, we do hav e some dodgy neighborhoods y ou might consider av oiding. The Tenderloin (p. 53) isn’t great, although it is home to a huge immigrant population that manages to live side by side with drug addicts, hookers, and v agrants. E venings are par ticularly r ough; daytime is okay .
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WORDS OF WISDOM & HELPFUL RESOURCES
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Stow Lake or bo wling at Yerba B uena Gardens. • Ask your children what they would like to do during the trip . G ive them options, make a calendar , and follo w through on some of their suggestions. This doesn’t mean they are in charge. It means they get to participate in a bit of decision-making. • Give them a camera. E ither buy an inexpensive digital camera for y our kids, or let them use y ours (car efully) once in a while. I t’s empo wering and cheap—since you can just delete all the pictures with people ’s heads cut off— and provides a new way for your kids to think about sightseeing. • Have them keep a journal. E ven before they could write, we gave our girls notebooks so they could draw pictur es of things they saw on each trip . Now, on vacations, they enjo y spending the fe w minutes befor e dinner arriv es writing about their day. • Look at the silv er lining. Taking our toddler son back to hotels for naps in the middle of the day is my ex cuse for me to read a good book . . . or enjo y a nice nap myself, something that’s rare at home. • Relax. When y ou slo w do wn, forget about stresses of home, and all focus on your ne w surr oundings, y ou and y our family can build some lasting memories together. How to T ake G reat Trips with Y our Kids (The Harvard Common Press) is full of good general advice that can apply to travel anywhere. You can find good family-oriented vacation advice on the I nternet from sites like Family Travel Forum (www .familytravel forum.com), a compr ehensive site that offers customiz ed trip planning; Family Travel Network (www.familytravelnetwork. com), an awar d-winning site that offers travel featur es, deals, and tips; Traveling
Internationally with Your K ids (www . travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site offering sound advice for long-distance and international travel with children; and Family Travel Files (www.thefamilytravel files.com), which offers an online magazine and a directory of off-the-beaten-path tours and tour operators for families.
ADVICE FOR SINGLE PARENTS
Parents trav eling without par tners will appreciate San Francisco’s low-key, friendly disposition. Chances are hotel staff, restaurant emplo yees, and people on the str eet will be happy to assist y ou in a pinch. I t’s good to keep a relaxed attitude when traveling with kids, but it ’s especially important when y ou’re the one corralling the offspring. G o slo wly and don ’t tr y to do too much; sav or the br eak from the r outine and the oppor tunity to be in a ne w setting together. Online, the Single Parent Travel Network (www.singleparenttravel.net) offers excellent advice, trav el specials, a bulletin board, and a fr ee electr onic ne wsletter. The Family T ravel Forum (www.familytravelforum.com) also hosts a single parent trav el bulletin boar d for tips fr om fellow travelers.
ADVICE FOR GRANDPARENTS
One r eliable agency that targets trav eling grandparents is Elderhostel (& 877/ 426-8056; www.elderhostel.org), which arranges study programs for those aged 55 and over in the U.S. and in mor e than 80 countries around the world. O f particular interest ar e the “I ntergenerational” pr ograms. Most courses last 5 to 7 days in the U.S. (2–4 w eeks abr oad), and many include air fare, accommodations in university dormitories or modest inns, meals, and tuition. Members of AARP (formerly kno wn as the American Association of R etired
San Francisco is well known as a bastion of gay and lesbian households, many of which include kids. If you hope to connect with any, start by contacting Our Family Coalition (& 415/981-1960; www .our family.org), a grass-r oots organization for families with gay/lesbian/bisexual/transgender members. Check their w ebsite for a calendar of social and educational events. You might also want to visit the San Francisco Lesbian, G ay, B isexual, and Transgender Community Center at 1800 Market S t., S an F rancisco, CA 94102 (& 415/865-5555; www.sfcenter.org). It’s easily r eached on the F-M arket and J-Church str eetcars. O ther sites to check out include www .familypride.org, www . gayparentingpage.com, and www .rfamily vacations.com. Many agencies offer tours and trav el itineraries specifically for gay and lesbian travelers. Among them ar e Above and
TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES
Most disabilities shouldn ’t stop any one from traveling in the U.S. There are more options and r esources out ther e than ev er before. Most of San Francisco’s major museums and tourist attractions hav e wheelchair ramps. M any hotels offer special accommodations and ser vices for wheelchair users and other visitors with disabilities. Check with the San Francisco Convention and Visitors B ureau (p. 16) for the most up-to-date accessibility information. Many trav el agencies offer customiz ed tours and itineraries for trav elers with disabilities. Among them ar e Flying Wheels Travel (& 877-451-5006 or & 507/4515005; www .flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible J ourneys (& 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www .disabilitytravel. com). Avis Rent a Car has an “Avis Access”
WORDS OF WISDOM & HELPFUL RESOURCES
FOR GAY & LESBIAN PARENTS
Beyond Tours (& 800/397-2681; www. 41 abovebeyondtours.com); Now, V oyager (& 800/255-6951; www .nowvoyager. com); and Olivia C ruises & R esorts (& 800/631-6277; www.olivia.com). Gay.com Travel (& 800/929-2268 or 415/644-8044; www .gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com) is an online successor to the popular Out & A bout print magazine. I t pr ovides r egularly updated information about gay-o wned, gay-oriented, and gay-friendly lodging, dining, sightseeing, nightlife, and shopping establishments in ev ery impor tant destination worldwide. The following travel guides are available at many bookstor es, or y ou can or der them from any online bookseller: Spartacus I nternational G ay G uide (B runo Gmünder V erlag; www.spartacusworld. com/gayguide) and Odysseus: The I nternational Gay Travel P lanner (Odysseus Enterprises Ltd.); and the Damron guides 2 (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.
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Persons), 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 ( & 888/687-2277; www .aarp. org), get discounts on hotels, air fares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly ne wsletter. Anyone over 50 can join. The U.S. National Park Service offers a Golden Age Passport that gives seniors 62 y ears or older lifetime entrance to all properties administer ed b y the N ational Park Service—national parks, monuments, historic sites, recreation areas, and national wildlife r efuges—for a one-time pr ocessing fee of $10, which must be pur chased in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee. B esides fr ee entr y, a Golden Age P assport also offers a 50% discount on federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours. F or more information, go to www .nps.gov/ fees_passes.htm or call & 888/467-2757.
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S TAY I N G CO N N E C T E D
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program that offers such services as a dedicated 24-hour toll-fr ee number ( & 888/ 879-4273) for customers with special travel needs; special car featur es such as swivel seats, spinner knobs, and hand controls; and accessible bus ser vice. Organizations that offer assistance to disabled trav elers include MossRehab (www.mossresourcenet.org), the American F oundation for the B lind (AFB; & 800/232-5463; www .afb.org), and SATH (Society for A ccessible Travel & Hospitality; & 212/447-7284; www.sath. org). AirAmbulanceCard.com is no w partnered with SA TH and allo ws y ou to preselect top-notch hospitals in case of an emergency.
Also check out the quar terly magazine Emerging H orizons (www .emerging horizons.com); and Open W orld magazine, published by SATH.
TRAVELING WITH PETS
Fortunately, many S an F rancisco hotels accept pets, although in some cases these are limited to one cat or dog (and in, at least a few hotels, just dogs). With beautiful open spaces like C rissy F ield and Golden G ate P ark, y ou’ll find plenty of places to take F ido. J ust be ware of S an Francisco’s leash laws: at some par ks, you may notice all the dogs off-leash. Depending on where you are, that may be technically illegal and the moment y ou take off your dog ’s leash, an irate par ent may let you know just where to put that leash.
8 S TAY I N G CO N N E C T E D INTERNET ACCESS AWAY FROM HOME
Without Your Computer
It’s har d no wadays to find a city that doesn’t hav e a fe w cyber cafes. Although there’s no definitiv e directory for cyber cafes, two places to star t looking ar e www. cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe. com. S an F rancisco doesn ’t hav e many cybercafes, but most of its public libraries offer fr ee I nternet access. I n addition, FedEx K inko’s and similar businesses offer Internet access for a fee. A void hotel business centers and I nternet kiosks, such as in most major airpor ts, unless you’re willing to pay exorbitant rates.
With Your Own Computer
Wi-Fi (wireless fidelity) is the buzzword in computer access, and mor e and mor e hotels, cafes, and retailers are signing on as wireless “hotspots” from where you can get high-speed connection without cable wires, networ king har dware, or a phone line (see belo w). T-Mobile H otspot
(www.t-mobile.com/hotspot) ser ves up wireless connections at mor e than 1,000 Starbucks coffee shops nationwide Boingo (www.boingo.com) and Wayport (www . wayport.com) hav e set up networ ks in airports and high-class hotel lobbies. IPass providers (www .ipass.com) also giv e y ou access to a fe w hundr ed wir eless hotel lobby setups. Best of all, you don’t need to be staying at the F our Seasons to use the hotel’s networ k; just set y ourself up on a nice couch in the lobb y. The companies’ pricing policies can be b yzantine, with a variety of monthly , per-connection, and per-minute plans, but in general y ou pay around $30 a month for limited access— and as more and more companies jump on the wir eless bandwagon, prices ar e likely to get even more competitive. Wi-Fi is available throughout San Francisco, and most of its hotels also offer dataports for laptop modems, and a fe w thousand hotels in the U.S. and E urope now offer fr ee high-speed I nternet access using an Ethernet network cable. (You can bring y our o wn cables, but most hotels
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rent them for ar ound $10; call y our hotel in advance to see what your options are.)
CELLPHONES
9 R E CO M M E N D E D B O O K S , F I L M S & M U S I C As one of the most beautiful places on the planet, San Francisco has been a favorite of movie studios since the bir th of film. I n fact, the first public motion pictur e was presented in San Francisco—silhouettes of
a horse, a dog, and a human gymnast were shown to viewers using a primitive projector made from a box with light, a lens, and a reflector. The following list of films and books will pique the inter est of the most
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Just because your cellphone works at home doesn’t mean it ’ll wor k else where in the country (thanks to our nation’s fragmented cellphone system). It’s a good bet that y our phone will work in major cities. B ut take a look at y our wir eless company ’s co verage map on its w ebsite befor e heading out— T-Mobile, S print, and N extel ar e par ticularly weak in rural areas. If you need to stay in touch at a destination wher e you know your phone won’t work, rent a phone that does fr om InTouch USA (& 800/8727626; www.intouchglobal.com) or a r ental car location, but beware that you’ll pay $1 a minute or more for airtime.
If y ou’re not fr om the U.S., y ou’ll be appalled at the poor r each of our GSM (Global System for Mobiles) wireless network, which is used b y much of the r est of the world. Your phone will pr obably work in most major U.S. cities; it definitely won’t work in many r ural areas. And y ou may or may not be able to send SMS (text messaging) home. Assume nothing—call y our wireless provider and get the full scoop. In do wntown S an F rancisco, Triptel Mobile R ental P hones, 1525 Van N ess Ave., betw een California and P ine streets (& 415/474-3330; www .triptel.com), rents cellphones at $3 per day , or $15 per week. Airtime rates are 95¢ per minute for domestic calls, with an additional $1.25 per minute for international calls. Triptel also sells SIM car ds for trav elers bringing their own phones.
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For an ex cellent travel-planning resource, we highly r ecommend Frommers. com (w ww.frommers.com), v oted Best Travel Sit e b y PC Magazine . W e’re a little biased, of course, but we guarantee that you’ll find the travel tips, reviews, monthly vacation g iveaways, bookst ore, and online -booking capabilities t o be thor oughly indispensable . Special f eatures include our popular Destinations sec tion, wher e y ou can ac cess exper t tra vel tips , hot el and dining r ecommendations, and advice on the sights to see in more than 3,500 destinations around the globe; the Frommers.com Newsletter, with the latest deals, travel trends, and money-saving secrets; and our Travel Talk area featuring Message Boards, where Frommer’s readers post queries and shar e advice, and wher e our authors sometimes sho w up t o answ er questions . Onc e y ou finish y our research, the Book a Trip area can lead y ou t o F rommer’s pr eferred online partners’ websites, where you can book y our vacation at aff ordable prices.
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recalcitrant traveler in the je wel of the left coast, although y ou pr obably won ’t find much r esistance to begin with for this trip. For y ounger childr en, r ent the 1998 version of The Parent Trap. This remake, no longer starring H ayley M ills, darn it, has a fabulous scene at the famous F airmont Hotel atop Nob Hill. Another classic is Mrs. Doubtfire, starring the city’s own Robin Williams, who passes himself off as a B ritish nanny in or der to spend time with his childr en after separating fr om their mother , play ed b y S ally F ield. The family lives on Steiner Street, and there are several great shots of the city in the film. For older kids, there is an endless supply of great material, from Star Trek IV: The Voyage H ome, wher e the E nterprise and its crew set do wn in S an F rancisco to seek “nuclear wessels” across San Francisco Bay to X-Men III: The Last S tand, which includes a scene featuring Yerba B uena Gardens and M etreon. R eese Witherspoon’s apartment in Just Like Heaven had San F rancisco vie ws, and J ennifer Lopez plays a San Francisco local in The Wedding Planner. The zany B arbra S treisand and R yan O’Neill scr ewball comedy What’s U p, Doc? takes viewers down Lombard Street, through the Chinese N ew Year P arade, and down the Alta P laza steps in P acific Heights to the B ay. Another must-see film is Foul P lay with Chevy Chase and Goldie H awn racing frantically up and down just about every hill in the city in a quest to sav e the pope fr om being murdered at the O pera House. And who can resist the D irty H arry mo vies, starring Clint Eastwood as the har d-boiled detective? Alfr ed H itchcock also lo ved S an Francisco and set thr ee of his films her e, including Vertigo.
Books are also useful to raise awar eness of the city . For y ounger r eaders ther e ar e some gr eat pictur e and stor ybooks av ailable about San Francisco. Herb Caen, the city’s famous columnist until his death in 1997, br ought together some of its most famous characteristics—fog, cable cars, and Chinese New Year—in an enchanting tale, The C able C ar and the Dr agon (Chronicle Books, 1986). Humphrey, the Lost Whale: A True Story (Heian, 1986), by Wendy Tokuda and Richar d H all, is a beautiful book av ailable in E nglish and Japanese. It tells the tale of a group of local people who band together to save a humpback whale that swims into S an Francisco Bay b y mistake. The C ity b y the B ay: A Magical J ourney A round S an F rancisco (Chronicle Books, 1993), by Tricia Brown and the Junior League of San Francisco, is a wonder ful pictur e book that turns famous neighborhoods and landmar ks into whimsical illustrations. This is perfect for introducing kids 4 to 8 years old to the culture and sights of the city. Another terrific book is a r eprint of a 1962 classic b y Miroslav Sasek, This is San Francisco (Universe P ublishing, 2003). E ven older kids will love the drawings of fishtailed Cadillacs and drive-in restaurants in this detailrich picture book. A novel set in the city can also act as a catalyst to inter est older childr en. In Peppermints in the P arlor (Atheneum, 1980), by B arbara B rooks Wallace, r ecently orphaned E mily L uccock finds herself embroiled in a murder mystery in Golden Gate Park when she mo ves to S an Francisco to liv e with her aunt and uncle. I n Sid Fleischman’s By the Great Horn Spoon! (Little Brown & Co., 1963), a 12-year-old boy strikes it rich in S an Francisco during the gold r ush after sto wing away on a journey from Boston.
Suggested Itineraries When y ou’ve got k ids in t ow,
sometimes just getting out of your hotel in the morning can feel like a major accomplishment. Deciding where to go after that can seem more daunting still. The itineraries in this chapter will help take the guesswor k out of ho w to spend y our time in S an F rancisco. I’ ve included the major sights that will interest both adults and kids, and arranged them in a manner that takes adv antage of S an
Francisco’s relatively compact size, leading you fr om one nearb y attraction to another. If you have only 1 day to spend in S an Francisco, the “B est in O ne D ay” tour introduces y ou to the city ’s most enduringly popular highlights and giv es y ou a chance to take in its beloved views as well. Should you have more time, take the “Best in Two D ays” and “B est in Three D ays” tours on days 2 and 3.
1 O R I E N TAT I O N San Francisco has a lot going for it. F or its geographic setting, it ranks as one of the loveliest cities on ear th. The tolerant, open-minded population includes a dynamic mix of cultures from around the globe. The city produces some of the most innovative cuisine in the country and is home to a plethora of cultural institutions as well. Finally, from this little nook in N orthern California, one can r eadily visit some of the most dramatic mountains, beautiful beaches, and stunning national par ks in the world. San Francisco occupies the northernmost tip of a 32-mile-long peninsula. I ts western coast is battered by a chilly and unr elentingly forceful piece of the P acific Ocean, while its eastern side looks out onto the calm waters of San Francisco Bay, the Bay Bridge, and the to wns and mountains bey ond. To the nor th, the photogenic G olden G ate B ridge spans the tiny opening to the bay, less than 2 miles in length, and connects San Francisco to the picturesque hills of Marin County. San Francisco has its own share of hills, and as such offers visitors one fabulous vie w after another. The city’s 790,000-plus r esidents include ethnicities fr om every corner of the globe. Enclaves of African-American, Chinese, El Salvadoran, Brazilian, Irish, Italian, Japanese, Mexican, M iddle Eastern, R ussian, and Vietnamese r esidents, among others, make it possible for locals and visitors alike to experience a world of cultur es within 47 squar e miles. San Francisco’s cosmopolitan roots can be traced to the gold rush. Before then the sleepy to wn of Yerba B uena—settled b y the S panish in 1776, claimed b y M exico in 1822, and declar ed part of the U.S. (and r enamed San Francisco) in 1848—was little more than a military outpost, a port, and some ranchland. That all changed when newspaper publisher Sam Brannan took it upon himself in 1849 to publicize the discovery of gold in the American River, 130 miles east. The gold r ush attracted a flood of for tune hunters, adv enturers, savvy business folk, and opportunists from across America, as well as immigrants from as far away as China. The vast majority made no money digging for gold; their luck came fr om ending up in
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San Francisco. Newcomers quickly created havens within the city to support and sustain their cultures. Neighborhoods emerged with pr edominant characteristics and, whether by foresight or fate, over the decades they hav e managed to maintain their individuality despite the forces of popular culture. San Franciscans, although there’s no single accurate description of that species, believ e in the vir tues of div ersity and self-expr ession. And that’s another r eason why, along with those hills and that vie w, you just hav e to lo ve it here.
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
VISITOR INFORMATION
NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF
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The San Francisco Convention and Visitors Bureau operates the Visitor Information Center on the lower level of Hallidie Plaza on Powell and Market streets ( & 415/3912000; www.onlyinsanfrancisco.com). The staff is multilingual and genuinely helpful. Visit the information center for books; maps; Municipal Railway passes for buses, streetcars, and cable cars; souv enirs; and tons of br ochures to guide y ou fur ther. I t’s open Monday through Friday 9am to 5pm and w eekends 9am to 3pm. Warning: Ar ound F isherman’s Wharf and else where, y ou may see manned booths with signs proclaiming themselves tourist information centers. These booths are operated by organizations such as the Fisherman’s Wharf Merchants’ Association or by tour companies, boat lines, or other attractions, and, as such, ar e not the best sour ce of unbiased advice. For that, y ou should phone or visit the Visitor Information Center mentioned above.
THE LAY OF THE LAND
The city is divided up into neighborhoods as diverse and interesting as their inhabitants. Streets, for the most part, are laid out in a traditional grid pattern, with two major exceptions: Market Street and Columbus Avenue. Market Street cuts through town from the Embarcadero up toward Twin Peaks in the Sunset District. Columbus Avenue runs at an angle through North Beach starting at the Transamerica Pyramid and ending near the Hyde Street Pier. Another impor tant thoroughfare, Geary Boulevard, r uns all the way from Market Street through town to Ocean Beach. Even the traditionally laid out roads are confusing when a hill gets in the way and the street ends abr uptly only to emerge on the other side, which is par ticularly annoying if you’re driving. Travel with a map; I like the San Francisco Transit Rider M ap and Guide (see “Maps” in the “Fast Facts” section of the appendix for details on finding one). Numbered streets, by the way , ar e do wntown, south of M arket S treet. N umbered avenues (notice the subtle difference) are found in the Richmond and S unset districts southwest of downtown.
NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF Union S quare Named for the historic plaza it encompasses, U nion Square is the cultural and commer cial heart of S an F rancisco. This is wher e tourists, and plenty of r esidents, come to shop. The roughly 22 squar e blocks bordered by Market, Mason, Bush, and Kearny str eets house S an F rancisco’s
greatest concentration of hotels in every rate categor y, clothing stor es, galleries, and theaters. Equally plentiful in Union Square ar e r estaurants, although they cater mainly to tourists and businesspeople. (With a few notable exceptions, San Francisco’s better dining options, at
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Convention Center and M etreon, with its o wn collection of kid-friendly attractions. D elightful bay vie ws and AT&T Park ar e ar ound the corner in nearby South Beach. Brand-new restaurants seem to pop up daily in this former industrial neighborhood. The Museum of the African D iaspora arrived a fe w y ears ago, and the Contemporary Jewish Museum no w calls SoMa home. But the ongoing dev elopment has not yet reached all of S oMa, and just 1 block west of the toniest shopping mall in town is the heart of skid row: 6th and 7th streets below Market Street. Market Street itself is also home to a shar e of the city ’s homeless r esidents. S o although S oMa has some of the city ’s greatest cultural attractions and ev en a few of its best hotels, families with young children may prefer lodging in a less gritty part of town. Chinatown It’s with good reason that Chinatown is the second most visited destination in S an F rancisco, behind Fisherman’s Wharf. The densely populated ar ea betw een B roadway, Taylor, Bush, and M ontgomery str eets is ev ery bit as color ful, cr owded, and atmospheric as adv ertised. The much-photographed Dragon Gate entrance on Grant Street leads to one tourist shop after another, all visually enhanced by colorful banners in red, gold, and green. If y ou’re in the mar ket for a rhinestone tiara or a set of chopsticks, this is nirvana. Kids lo ve all the little knickknacks: you could lose many hours poking around the stores, snacking on freshly baked for tune cookies, and wandering the alleyways. S tockton S treet, with its exotic grocery stores and traditional herb shops, is equally alluring. Ov erall, Chinatown is great for shopping and eating, and several of its restaurants are listed in chapter 5. Given the noise and cr owds,
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
any price range, ar e located in other neighborhoods.) You’ll find no shor tage of noise and congestion her e, but gr een space is another matter . The actual U nion Square plaza, located within S tockton, Powell, G eary, and P ost str eets, once provided the gr eenery that is other wise absent in the city center , but a 2002 redesign of the plaza did away with a lot of it. A t least the ne w design is better suited to hosting the squar e’s fr equent art exhibits and cultural events. Also on the plaza is the TIX B ay Ar ea halfprice ticket booth (see chapter 10 for more information on the TIX booth). Despite Union Square’s urban feel— there’s not a playgr ound to speak of— staying in this area is worth considering as it has the gr eatest concentration of hotels. M oreover, it ’s close to many other city attractions, with readily available public transpor tation. F inally, if your children are actually old enough to enjoy shopping as much as you do, this could be the neighborhood for y ou. South of Market SoMa, as the blocks encompassed by Market, 10th, Steuart, and King streets (including South Beach and AT&T Park) are familiarly known, exemplifies the best and worst of urban life. H ere y ou will find some of the city’s top cultural institutions, such as the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art and the Yerba B uena Center for the Arts. With its lovely gardens, galleries, and performance space, and numerous attractions for childr en of all ages, the Yerba Buena Center is a testament to successful urban planning. With the expansion of the Westfield San Francisco Centre mall and r ecent opening of a massiv e B loomingdale’s, whose doors open south to S oMa, the neighborhood has now integrated more fully into the U nion S quare shopping scene. I n S oMa y ou’ll also find the continuously expanding Moscone
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however, it’s not a gr eat area for hotels, so stay elsewhere. Fisherman’s Wharf This is one of the country’s most popular tourist attractions, just behind D isneyworld and Disneyland. D epending on wher e y ou are in F isherman’s Wharf, it can feel a lot like D isneyland as w ell. S tretching from Van Ness Avenue to Kearny Street, and fr om the piers to B ay S treet, the wharf is home to PIER 39, a conglomeration of tacky tourist shops and o verpriced r estaurants. The pier cer tainly has a lot for kids to lo ve, including an aquarium; a carousel; playful stores like Puppets on the Pier; an endless array of chocolate, ice cream, and cookie shops; and the noisy, smelly, but irresistible sea lions. S teps away fr om the pier , the cheesy attractions continue, with places like Rainforest Cafe offering lackluster food in a gimmicky environment. Now that I’ve dampened your expectations, let me say that the w estern side of F isherman’s Wharf, opposite P IER 39, is actually quite nice, getting better every year, and wor th a visit. G limpses of the area’s maritime past are visible in the wonder ful antique boats of the Hyde Street Pier. Here you’ll also find an upscale shopping mall at Ghirardelli Square, a pleasant str etch of lawn for kids to r un ar ound, a tiny beach, The Cannery courtyard, and the M unicipal Pier, with its sweeping views of the Bay and the Golden Gate Bridge. With all the tourists, it ’s no surprise most of the national chains hav e hotels here, many with pools. U nfortunately, except for the Argonaut Hotel, most of the area’s lodging is not very inspiring— but it is all quite family-friendly. North Beach Landfill came betw een the waves and N orth Beach more than 100 years ago, just one of many changes this historic neighborhood has experienced. Situated roughly from Broadway to Lombard and Grant to Taylor streets,
it rubs shoulders with Telegraph Hill to the east and R ussian H ill to the w est. Columbus A venue, the main ar tery, cuts thr ough at an angle, br ushing up against Washington S quare P ark, the village squar e. O nce populated b y the Italian immigrants fr om G enoa and Sicily who founded the ar ea’s fishing industry, North B each is slo wly giving way to Chinato wn—at least on its southern edge, as Chinese shops cr eep up Stockton Street past Broadway. There’s still plenty of M editerranean warmth, lots of pasta, and cafes galor e. Although no good family accommodations exist in North Beach, it’s a delightful spot to come to str oll, shop , and dine. The Embarcadero If one can use the term “idyllic ” to describe an urban amble, then a walk along the E mbarcadero anywher e betw een B each S treet and A T&T P ark cer tainly qualifies. Although the 1989 Loma P rieta earthquake wr eaked hav oc on homes and lives thr oughout the B ay Ar ea, one positive outcome was the r elease of the waterfront from the ugly shadow of the Embarcadero Freeway, which was damaged and subsequently demolished. The area’s renewal has been astonishing and has added immeasurably to the beauty of the city . I n the past fe w y ears, an extension to the M unicipal Railway lines has brought streetcar service to the entire E mbarcadero as far as F isherman’s Wharf. Most recently, the 1896 Ferry Building at the foot of M arket S treet was completely rehabilitated. The attractive building now contains an array of gourmet food stor es and ex cellent r estaurants. O utside, y ou can br owse the Ferry P laza F armer’s M arket twice a week; ex cursions to the S aturday market ar e a r egular par t of many a S an Franciscan’s schedule. N ot far fr om the F erry B uilding, the Embarcadero
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Belden Place, an alley betw een Kearny, Bush, and P ine str eets, offers outdoor dining in good w eather and E uropean ambience all y ear r ound, and the Crocker G alleria betw een Post, S utter, and M ontgomery str eets offers good fast food, in addition to upscale shopping oppor tunities. You’ll also find a growing collection of informal, organic, and healthy lunch spots gear ed to the working crowd. Despite these perks, this wouldn’t be my first choice of a neighborhood to stay in. The str eets ar e practically deserted at night, ex cept for homeless people. B ut, on the upside, it ’s r eally quiet. Civic Center and Hayes Valley W ith the Asian Ar t Museum and impr essive buildings in the B eaux Ar ts ar chitectural style, Civic Center is a worthwhile stop for visitors. Bound b y G olden Gate Avenue and F ranklin, Hyde, and Market str eets, this is home to City Hall; the opera, ballet, and symphony stages; the ne w main librar y; and the Civic Center Plaza. However, as a meeting ground for much of the city’s homeless population, the neighborhood is less than ideal after dar k. It’s busy during the performing arts season, but even then, take a cab at night. The area has some hotels, but families should think twice before lodging around here. Hayes Valley, w est of Civic Center and tucked between Franklin, Webster, Grove, and P age streets, is dotted with hip boutiques featuring local designers, gift shops, and r estaurants that leav e you feeling like you’ve discovered something cool. As a transitional neighborhood, this isn ’t the safest place to stay , but it might be wor th a trip during the day for some shopping. The Marina and Cow Hollow T rendy single urbanites and young families call these picturesque neighborhoods home. The commer cial blocks of the M arina
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
Center, a set of fiv e multi-use to wers along Drumm Street beginning at Market Street, houses upscale chain stor es, restaurants, a movieplex, and a seasonal outdoor ice skating rink. The few hotels that grace the area are priced in the high-moderate to luxur y range, but dining options run the gamut from very inexpensive to big-night-out. Just slightly off the beaten tourist path, this would be a fun, conv enient area in which to stay with kids of any age. Nob H ill Along California S treet from Leav enworth to S tockton str eets, Nob Hill is one of the oldest and most fashionable neighborhoods in to wn. I t was once the ex clusive tur f of the railroad bar ons Leland S tanford, M ark Hopkins, Charles Crocker, and Collis P. Huntington—collectively known as the “Big Four.” The properties where their mansions once stood now support fancy hotels, a priv ate club , expensiv e apar tment buildings, and the striking G race Cathedral. This is a wonderful place for families to stay: The largely r esidential feel of Huntington Park provides a nice respite from the congestion of the city center, y et it ’s just a 5-minute walk from Union Square. Also, the California cable car line r uns right by most of the hotels. The downside for those on foot is a steep uphill walk fr om Union Square to get back to the hotel. There’s also cost: M ost of the hotels her e ar e lovely, but also quite pricey. Financial D istrict E ncompassing prime r eal estate r oughly betw een Montgomery S treet and the E mbarcadero on the w est side of M arket Street, the F inancial D istrict is the business center of San Francisco. The once-controversial Transamerica P yramid at Montgomery and Clay str eets is a skyline landmar k, wor th a closer look for the miniatur e for est of r edwood tr ees planted next to the building on the east side. Eating lunch ar ound here is easy:
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and Cow Hollow, Chestnut Street, and Union Street, are delightfully crammed with cafes, boutiques, and gift shops. Restaurants abound, some of them inexpensive, and most of them familyfriendly. In addition to the prime shopping, you’ll find sev eral choice attractions here, including the Exploratorium and the Palace of F ine Ar ts, the Marina Green, and Fort M ason, all of which have major kid appeal. I t’s also in close proximity to the Golden Gate Bridge and the Presidio. A fair number of travelers end up staying in the M arina, especially those attached to automobiles, because the par king is either fr ee or at least r easonable. Most accommodations are in the motel range and line ever-busy Lombard Street, but there are some better-than-av erage places to sleep. Know where you’re going if y ou venture out for the ev ening; sections of Lombard are dicey late at night. The P residio Founded in 1776 as a Spanish garrison, this nor thwest corner of S an F rancisco r emained a militar y installation for mor e than 200 y ears. The U.S. took o ver in 1846 and later planted sev eral pine and eucalyptus trees, ev entually changing the sandy , barren hills into a delightful wooded area with mor e than 400,000 tr ees. In 1994, the army handed o ver control of all 1,500 acr es to the N ational P ark Service, to become par t of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Today families come her e to hike, play golf , sunbathe at Baker Beach, and even play a fe w frames at a little bo wling alley . The old officer’s club has a well-stocked visitor’s center, and the old militar y PX market is no w “S ports B asement,” the cheapest place in to wn to buy spor ting equipment. My all-time fav orite part of the P residio is Crissy F ield, which was reopened in 2002 as the B ay Ar ea’s
newest national par k. An easy walk along Crissy Walk takes you all the way to Fort Point, at the foot of the Golden Gate Bridge. The Presidio has no tourist accommodations, just plenty of things to do. Japantown and the Western A ddition Once upon a time, this neighborhood off G eary Boulev ard, betw een Webster and Laguna streets, housed one of the largest concentrations of J apanese outside J apan. D uring World War II, when the city ’s J apanese r esidents w ere interred in camps, the area became home to other settlers, some of them African Americans who w ere r ecruited to California to wor k in the shipyar ds. Today, Japantown houses less than 4% of S an Francisco’s J apanese population. S outh of G eary Boulev ard, which cut the neighborhood in two when it was widened in the ’60s, the ar ea is pr edominately African American and residential. At first glance, Japantown appears to consist of a large pagoda and an unattractive indoor shopping center . H idden inside these cement blocks, however, are good, inexpensive Japanese restaurants and some inter esting shops. The Peace P laza, with its flat, cement waterfall, is also a nice place for kids to stretch their legs. J apantown sponsors two festiv als ev ery y ear, the Cherr y Blossom F estival in A pril and the Nihonmachi Street Fair in A ugust (see chapter 2 for details on each). Two hotels hav e opened her e in recent years, which, since J apantown is off the beaten path, ar e a gr eat v alue. With a slew of bus lines nearby, you can still get wher e you need to go—or just spring for a taxi with the money y ou’ve saved on the hotel room. Alamo Square (btw. Hayes, Fulton, Steiner, and Scott sts.) fr onts the group of r estored Victorian homes kno wn as “postcard r ow.” The houses ar e so picture-perfect, they have become as much
Tips
Getting to Golden Gate Park
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When you study a map of the cit y, it appears as if it ’s an easy walk along Hayes, Oak, Fell, Page, or Haight streets from the Civic Center to Golden Gate Park. Appearances are deceiving. You’ll encounter a number of hills along this r oute, which takes you through areas that are somewhat blighted, noisy with traffic, rough in spots, and unattractive. Save your legs for the park and get there on a bus or streetcar.
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too bad the cozy inns here are all geared toward couples. Russian H ill Circled b y B roadway, Polk, Chestnut, and Taylor streets, this hill was named for the Russian fur traders r umored to be buried her e in the 1820s. The P olk S treet section of the neighborhood has become F renchified of late and sports some très chic antiques shops, cafes, and a brasserie. H yde Street provides upside access to the wiggly part of Lombard Street (the PowellHyde cable car takes y ou right ther e), and M acondry Lane, immor talized in Armistead Maupin’s Tales of the C ity, is tucked between Leavenworth and Taylor just north of Green Street. Your kids may be ex cited to kno w that the ice cream shop at the corner of H yde and Union str eets is the original S wensen’s Creamery. I t’s a v ery r esidential ar ea, with no real accommodations options. Haight-Ashbury Bordered on the west by Golden Gate Park, on the north by Fulton Street, on the east b y Divisadero Street, and by Waller Street to the south, gritty Haight-Ashbury has never fully put the 1960s behind it. This isn’t a complete bummer, by any means; the main drag, H aight Street, is filled with vintage clothes—much of it on hangers and for sale—as w ell as independently owned stores that y ou won’t see in y our local indoor mall. The str eet is also action-packed, albeit with people looking for handouts, but it ’s historic, man.
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
a symbol of San Francisco as the Golden Gate Bridge and the cable cars. Pacific H eights The most expensiv e neighborhood in S an Francisco is bordered b y B roadway, P ine, D ivisadero, and F ranklin str eets. E ven the priv ate schools here are housed in mansions. I f you hav e an inter est in ar chitecture, you’ll enjoy visiting the Haas-Lilienthal House, an 1886 Queen Anne Victorian decorated with period furniture at 2007 Franklin St. at Washington Street. Get the children to come along b y promising a peek at Mrs. D oubtfire’s fictional digs on 2640 S teiner S treet at B roadway. P ortions of The P rincess Diaries were filmed at The H amlin School, a private K–8 girls ’ school occupying a mansion on B roadway at B uchanan Street. D anielle S teel, the r omance writer, lives in the 1913, 55-room Spreckles M ansion, which takes up all the space betw een Washington, J ackson, Gough, and O ctavia streets, if y ou can imagine that. D irectly in fr ont of Ms. Steel’s house is Lafay ette P ark, which has a small playgr ound. An even better park is Alta P laza at S teiner and Clay streets, with tennis cour ts and a ne wly refurbished playground that afford great city views. Neighborhood residents do much of their shopping along F illmore S treet from California to J ackson streets, and there ar e some ex cellent r estaurants here, too . I t’s a wonder ful neighborhood in which to spend some time—
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As I r ecall fr om my o wn visits to S an Francisco in b ygone y ears, teens feel a magnetic pull to this place. I f you have some with y ou, definitely hav e lunch here on y our way to or fr om G olden Gate Park, but, because the ar ea can be noisy, and a bit seedy, at night, I wouldn’t recommend overnighting here. Laurel H eights and P residio Heights In this small, upscale r esidential neighborhood center ed ar ound California Street betw een Presidio and Arguello str eets, one could get the impression that a bab y str oller is the price of admission. There ar e lots of them here, all filled with actual babies, and ther e ar e lots of stor es catering to young families in the Laur el Village Shopping Center and on S acramento Street just 1 block to the nor th. Come here to check out the delightful children’s clothing stor es, to do some grown-up shopping for home furnishings and fancy shoes, or to gawk at the large homes in P residio Heights. Technically in the P residio, but bor dering Presidio H eights, is the J ulius Kahn Park, with a fabulous playgr ound and grassy fields. The one wor thwhile family hotel her e, the Laurel Inn, is gr eat for families who want to stay in a “real” neighborhood. The M ission D istrict S tretching from 16th Street to Cesar Chavez Street, between D olores S treet and P otrero Avenue, the pr edominately H ispanic Mission D istrict is liv ely, congested, and earthy. For tourists, Mission Dolores at 16th Street and lovely palm tree– lined Dolores Street are worth a visit if you’re inter ested in historic S an F rancisco. Dolores Park, 2 blocks south, is a fine spot for vie ws and a little F risbee—but be ware the unleashed dogs. The 24th S treet corridor is a terrific market str eet for Latino food lo vers, and Valencia and G uerrero str eets between 16th and 23r d str eets ar e
brimming with hip little dining and drinking venues. The Mission has been redefining itself over the past 2 decades. It’s the hear t of the Latino community , a little bit funky, a little bit hipper than thou—and it’s frankly unsafe on certain blocks. Don’t linger ar ound the BAR T stations on 16th or 24th str eets and don’t hang ar ound late at night unless you’re with people who kno w the ar ea. Do come for dinner , but make sur e to take a cab back to y our hotel. (Parking is nearly impossible here, so driving isn’t recommended anyway .) The Precita Eyes M ural Ar t Center offers guided tours of M ission D istrict murals and high points—a gr eat way to gain some insight into the community. The Castro A huge rainbow flag, the symbol of gay activism, r eigns over the center of this historic community where Market Street meets Castr o Street. The flag is planted in H arvey M ilk P laza, named for the country’s first openly gay man elected to public office, r ecently portrayed by the actor Sean Penn in the acclaimed film Milk. There aren’t many family-friendly hotels her e, but y ou’ll find many fun, w ell-priced r estaurants in the area. The Castro Theater is handsome to look at and fun to attend, particularly if y ou can catch one of the legendary sing-along scr eenings of the Sound of M usic. O therwise, ther e’s not much for children around here. Noe Valley In the late ’ 80s, families began moving in dr oves into this hilly neighborhood south of the Castr o, transforming petite Victorians into stylishly r emodeled homes. You’ll find a number of shops and cafes on 24th Street betw een D iamond and Chur ch streets. The playgr ound at D ouglass and 27th str eets, and the Walter H aas playground at D iamond Heights Boulevard and A ddison S treet, ar e both delightful. The neighborhood is otherwise pretty quiet.
2 P L A N N I N G YO U R O U T I N G S Successful touring with kids r equires pr eplanning or an extr emely mello w attitude, and preferably both. (I n fact, an extr emely mellow attitude is as impor tant as a warm jacket.) Deciding beforehand, even the night before, what you’d like to do each day is much preferable to winging it. Otherwise, you’re going to waste time debating whether to go to Fisherman’s Wharf or the zoo or Chinatown and not be prepared for any of them. Above, I listed some suggested itineraries that should help y ou plan your time in San Francisco. Before you arrive in San Francisco, spend some time with the kids talking about the activities and attractions the city has to offer and make a list that includes both adultoriented and kid-oriented sites. M ake a family calendar , but don ’t o verschedule; one outing in the morning and one in the afternoon is enough, because playing tourist can be exhausting. O nce you’ve all had some input into deciding wher e to go and what to do, give everyone old enough to carr y a backpack a copy of the itinerar y. That way, if someone star ts to whine about going to their chosen attraction, y ou can point to the calendar and remind them that their time will come. This advice is good no matter what ages your kids are, assuming that they are old enough to state an opinion.
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followed by Stern Grove’s summer S unday concerts or a hike at Fort Funston. If y ou happen to take the N-J udah streetcar to Golden Gate Park, you might want to browse the stores and restaurants along Irving Street and 9th Avenue. Like the Richmond, this isn ’t an ar ea most people would choose to stay in because it’s too far from downtown. The Tenderloin The blocks enclosed by S utter and Taylor str eets and Van Ness and Golden Gate avenues, directly west of Union Square, are known as the Tenderloin. This is home to r ecent immigrants who ar e living alongside massage parlors, flophouses, bars, and individuals in v arious stages of deterioration doing what they can to hold on. It’s rough. This is no place to r oam in the evening, with or without childr en, so I don’t recommend choosing a hotel in this neighborhood. The one hav en very worth dropping by is Glide Memorial Chur ch on O’F arrell and J ones streets. S unday ser vices ar e ey e-opening—old-fashioned sermonizing, r ousing music, and a cr oss-section of residents.
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
The Richmond D istrict The largely residential Richmond D istrict r eaches from Arguello to the P acific on the northern edge of Golden Gate Park. It’s a bit out of the way to base y ourself here, but there are some attractions that will appeal to visitors. The main drag, Geary Boulev ard, boasts all kinds of Asian, R ussian, and M iddle Eastern restaurants and gr oceries. Clement Street is the other Chinato wn, less dense but still filled with imports, small bakeries, and delicatessens. The California Palace of the Legion of H onor museum in Lincoln P ark, the Cliff House, and Land’s End all hav e Richmond District zip codes. The Sunset District This is the city ’s other large r esidential ar ea, on the southern side of G olden G ate Park. It borders O cean B each, which can be splendid on the few fogless days of summer. (It’s more likely to be sunny in the spring or early fall). J ust be war y of ocean currents, which ar e dangerous at all times of year, and especially so in fall and winter . The San F rancisco Z oo is the S unset’s main visitor attraction,
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
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P L A N N I N G YO U R O U T I N G S
3
Getting around the city with y our children should be hassle-fr ee, for the most par t. The one exception is if it ’s necessary to cart around baby paraphernalia such as str ollers and diaper bags, because it ’s difficult to get on and off buses when y our hands ar e full and the bus is cr owded. In this case, y ou’ll want to plan y our itinerary to decrease your dependence on public transportation and walk as much as possible, or take advantage of the wider entrances and exits on Muni streetcars. Again, for families with kids of any age, always factor in extra time to get ar ound—even if y ou are driving, since ther e’s a good chance you’ll either get lost or spend 20 minutes looking for parking. San Francisco buses are slow; in addition to the scheduled stops, there’s traffic to deal with and the occasional breakdown. The streetcars are a little better time-wise, but can be cr owded. Remember, in a ne w destination, par t of the pleasur e really is in the journey itself . That’s certainly the case in San Francisco.
TOP NEIGHBORHOODS FOR FAMILY OUTINGS
Union Square
Although few obvious children’s attractions exist in what is first and foremost a shopping paradise, Union Square is the psychological heart of the city and may be used as a launching pad for other ex cursions. Kids may find the cr owds, clanging cable cars, and big buildings exciting. Moreover, Union Square itself now hosts entertainment, both ad hoc and planned. I n the winter months, the plaza ’s enormous Christmas tr ee and M acy’s holiday decorations are especially festive. Specifically, kid-friendly activities here include riding the glass elevator at the Westin St. Francis Hotel, greeting the beefeater-clad doorman at the S ir Francis Drake, and visiting the D isney Store. Teens may enjoy checking out the Levi’s and Diesel stores, among other shops. When Nature Calls: The ladies lounge at N eiman Marcus has one of the better bathrooms in to wn and is the best indoor place to nurse y our baby. Macy’s also has sev eral restrooms. The big hotels are also great for bathroom breaks.
South of Market (SoMa)
The walk from Union Square east to the SoMa neighborhood takes maybe 5 minutes and brings you into an amazing cultural zone. The Yerba Buena Gardens, Metreon, the Cartoon Ar t Museum, SFMOMA (the S an Francisco Museum of M odern Ar t), and the California Academy of Sciences can all be r eached on foot and can cer tainly make up a full day’s program. Families with determined teens may want to tour the Westfield San Francisco Centre mall at 5th and M arket streets as well. When Nature Calls: The Westfield mall has a childr en’s area tailor-made for changing diapers and nursing. The childr en’s section do wnstairs in B loomingdale’s has spacious restrooms and an area for nursing moms; the ladies’ room at Nordstrom also has an area for nursing moms. Metreon is also well equipped with toilets.
Chinatown
North of Union Square, a short walk up Grant Street, is the entrance to Chinatown. The draw here for you and yours is the sights and sounds of a community that is steeped in local histor y but which pr eserves its unique for eign culture. Possible stops include the playgrounds at St. Mary’s Square or Portsmouth Square, the Chinese Cultural Center, the Canton Bazaar, the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Company, and lunch. When Nature Calls: Local merchants probably will not let y ou to use their bathr ooms (few shopkeepers will in any neighborhood), so in an emergency make y our way to the
Tips Enjo ying Fisherman’s Wharf
55
Fisherman’s Wharf is on the water, of course, and that often means fog, or at least a cool breeze. So bring sweaters. If you plan to take the ferry to Alcatraz, bring jackets as well. Schedule rest/play periods to help avoid meltdowns and consider packing snacks—the food in this area can be crummy and expensive.
Fisherman’s Wharf
Golden Gate Park
The 1,000-plus acres making up this urban oasis ar e filled with activities that will ex cite both children and their parents. Kids will love the Koret Children’s Quarter, the antique carousel, Japanese Tea Garden, and Stow Lake, and adults can admir e Strybing Arboretum and the pictur esque Conser vatory of F lowers. I t’s easy to get to the par k using public transpor tation, but kids may tir e of the walk to r each the v arious attractions within it. A r est stop at one of the cafes or r estaurants on 9th A venue may help . The spectacular California Academy of Sciences and the de Young Museum are highlights of the park. When Nature Calls: Public restrooms are available inside the de Young Museum lobby (accessible without an admission fee), as w ell as near the Childr en’s Playground, Stow Lake, and the Conservatory of Flowers. Nursing moms can find any comfortable spot or head for the Strybing Arboretum.
3 T H E B E S T O F S A N F R A N C I S CO I N 1 D AY If you have just 1 day in San Francisco, this itinerary introduces you to many of the city’s most famous attractions without leaving y our kids, or you, in a heap. You’ll visit Union Square, ride a scenic cable car r oute, tour F isherman’s Wharf, take a br eak in N orth Beach, and gape at the sights, sounds, and smells of Chinatown. While it seems like a lot,
3 T H E B E S T O F S A N F R A N C I S CO I N 1 D AY
Children could easily be entertained here for an entire day. For a more tranquil visit, hang out on the Ghirardelli side, where kids can climb aboard the Hyde Street Pier boats, frolic at the A quatic Park beach, and listen to music in the cour tyard of The Cannery. For a healthy dose of o ver-stimulation, walk east to see P IER 39’s sea lions, the A quarium of the B ay, and M usée Mécanique, and to catch the ferries for a bay cr uise. Two scenic public transportation options fr om Union Square are the Powell-Hyde cable car or the F-Market streetcar. When Nature Calls: The best public r estroom here is on the H yde Street Pier. Public bathrooms are also located on the second floor of The Cannery, at G hirardelli, and on PIER 39. Nursing moms will hav e to grab a blanket and a bench. Try the cour tyard at The Cannery or the east side of P IER 39.
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
Chinatown H oliday I nn acr oss fr om P ortsmouth S quare on K earny S treet. R emind everyone to use the toilet after lunch if you are eating at a restaurant. Nursing moms can feel free to feed their babies on a park bench here or anywhere in town, really. Just throw a blanket over your shoulder and chest for a little priv acy.
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it’s quite manageable—all attractions ar e located within 2 squar e miles. I’ ve av oided overly ambitious suggestions in order to factor in slower walkers, emergency potty breaks, and the tough time you may have tearing the kids away from PIER 39. This itinerary will keep your family moving from one colorful place to the next, giving y our children little time to complain of boredom. Indeed, with the “crookedest street in the world,” antique ships, and noisy sea lions, chances are your kids will want to keep going even when you’re tuckered out. Just in case, I’ve noted plenty of playgrounds and grassy areas where everyone can take a break.
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
Powell-Hyde cable car turnaround at Powell and Market streets.
T H E B E S T O F S A N F R A N C I S CO I N 1 D AY
3
1 Union Square/Market Street/ Powell-Hyde Cable Car Line If you’re staying in a hotel, ther e’s a good chance y ou’ll be near the P owell-Hyde cable car line. ( That said, if y ou’re staying in Fisherman’s Wharf, y ou may pr efer to start this tour at stop no. 3 below and then fit in time for U nion Square after visiting Chinatown.) Your first stop , the cable car “turnaround” at the corner of M arket and Powell streets, is the hear t of S an Francisco’s shopping scene. G iven the ev er-present queue for the cable car , you’ll want to get there early, which may mean y ou’ll be out before the stores open. Even so, you’ll enjoy people-watching, fr om local wor ker bees starting their day to other early-rising tourists to str eet performers getting r eady to perform to the occasional odd bird carrying a sign lamenting the coming doomsday. It’s certainly a lively spot to start your excursion. See p. 159. 2 San Francisco Cable Cars (& Cable Car Museum) A cable car ride is an attraction in itself . Created in 1973 as an alternative to horsedrawn carriages, which pr oved difficult and at times ev en dangerous on the city ’s steep hills, cable cars actually hav e no engines. I nstead, cables r unning underground on the cable car lines mo ve at a constant speed of 9 1/2 mph. The car’s conductor, called a “ gripper,” controls a lev er that opens and closes a vise-like grip on the cable to either mo ve or stop . The Powell-Hyde line r uns up some of S an
Francisco’s steepest str eets, giving y ou a good sense of the city ’s photogenic, hilly topography. You’ll pass right b y the Cable Car Museum (p . 178). I f it ’s past 10am, take a moment to check it out. It’s free and quite interesting. If it’s closed, perhaps you can take a detour there later when you are in Chinatown. 3 Lombard Street
After passing the Cable Car M useum, the cable car continues climbing Nob Hill and then turns nor th onto R ussian Hill’s treelined H yde S treet. A t the top of H yde Street, get off at the intersection with Lombard Street, the so-called “ crookedest street in the world. ” Snap some photos of Alcatraz I sland, the S an F rancisco B ay, Coit Tower, and Telegraph Hill—just tr y not to do so from the middle of the street, as some o ver-enthusiastic sightseers ar e wont to do . Then str oll do wn, and back up, the Lombar d S treet steps; in spring and early summer, the str eet is lined with colorful blossoms. See p. 162. 4 Victoria Park, Ghirardelli Square & Aquatic Park Now y ou can either walk the thr ee extremely steep blocks do wn Hyde Street toward Fisherman’s Wharf, or hop back on the cable car. Either way, you’ll end up at Victoria Park, a lo vely expanse of grass at the edge of the S an Francisco B ay. Walk left 1 block to G hirardelli Square, an oldtime chocolate factor y now housing shops and restaurants. Since it’ll be too early for ice cream, you’ll have an excuse not to wait in line at the Ghirardelli Soda Fountain and
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Chocolate Shop (p. 244). I nstead, take in the view of the bay and Alcatraz Island and walk do wn thr ough Victoria P ark to the water’s edge. A t any time of day , y ou’re likely to find har dy (or perhaps just crazy) souls swimming in the frigid 50-something degree waters, often without wetsuits. Many are part of the D olphin Club, founded b y German immigrants in 1877, whose clubhouse now sits on the Hyde Street Pier.
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
5 Hyde Street Pier
T H E B E S T O F S A N F R A N C I S CO I N 1 D AY
3
Walk over to the Hyde Street Pier (p. 170) and purchase tickets to boar d the antique ships. Enjoy stunning views of the bay and the G olden G ate B ridge while y our children explor e an elegant 19th-centur y square-rigger, an 1890 ferr yboat chockfull of antique cars, and a 100-y ear-old tugboat. After checking out engine rooms, captain’s quar ters, and ev en a r eplicated turn-of-the-20th-century concession stand, cr oss the str eet to the M aritime National H istorical P ark Visitor Center for a look at intricate model boats and more info on the city ’s seafaring past. The visitor center is in The Canner y, a 1907 red-brick str ucture that was once the world’s largest peach-canning facility and now houses a collection of stor es, including the enchanting Lar k in the M orning Musique S hoppe. S top b y The Canner y courtyard to see if any musicians ar e playing.
6 SAN FRANCISCO CREPE CART
This quaint car t off ers sa vory and sw eet crepes, with fillings like ham and cheese or bananas and choc olate, to be enjo yed in the lo vely c ourtyard at The C annery, sometimes t o the ac companiment of live music fr om f olksy local per formers. See p. 132.
7 Fisherman’s Wharf
Head east toward the heart of Fisherman’s Wharf (p. 168). A t Pier 45, step into the
Musée Mécanique (p. 171), a fun antique arcade. If your kids like big boats and battles, splurge on tours of the SS J eremiah O’Brien, a WWII “Liber ty S hip,” and the WWII submarine USS Pampanito (p. 173). Our girls are staunch pacifists, but they still loved the tours—as I’ m sur e will our son when he ’s older . As y ou continue east, steer clear of the cheesy tourist shops (you’ll find plenty of souv enirs later on in Chinatown) and brace y ourselves for the crowds at P IER 39 (p . 172). P IER 39 is my least fav orite place on the whar f, but my opinion clearly counts for little, since it’s actually the thir d most visited U.S. tourist destination, behind D isneyworld and D isneyland. I f y ou can get past the candy, cookie, and fudge shops, what does it actually have going for it? Three things: an enjo yable, albeit pricey , aquarium; an antique carousel; and the city ’s infamous, smelly sea lions. B etween those thr ee things, a plethora of to y stor es, and the aforementioned sw eet shops, good luck tearing the kids away. 8 Telegraph Hill & Coit Tower
After the bustle of F isherman’s Wharf, you’ll enjoy the serene city views from atop Telegraph H ill, named for a semaphor e installed there in 1850 to aler t residents of ships’ arriv als, and cr owned b y a strange obelisk called Coit Tower. The trek may be too much for little legs. Fortunately, the no. 39-Coit bus takes y ou fr om the corner of Stockton and Beach streets right up to Coit Tower. Inside the to wer, check out murals celebrating the r ural and urban wor king class, painted b y students of D iego Rivera, then splurge on an elev ator ride to the top . Afterwards, walk or bus back do wn to Washington Park. See p. 183. 9 Washington Park & North Beach Now relax in Washington Square, one of the city’s oldest parks, dating to 1847. Let the children play in the small playgr ound while you take in the scene in this historic
neighborhood. In the 1870s, Genoese and Sicilian immigrants set up countless I talian restaurants, cafes, and bakeries in the neighborhood, and they worshiped at the lovely S aints Peter & P aul Chur ch o verlooking the park. (Today, the church offers services in English, Italian, and Chinese.)
0 GELATO CLASSICO
After y our tr ek, it ’s time t o r eward y ourselves with some lo vely I talian ice cream at Gelat o Classic o, locat ed st eps a way from Washington Park. See p. 127.
Wander south on Stockton Street, and the sights and sounds of Chinato wn come into focus. S tockton S treet is the “ real” Chinatown, wher e the ar ea’s r esidents come to buy gr oceries and medicines and
@ R&G LOUNGE
This is one of the bett er plac es t o eat in Chinatown, but y ou’ve got t o k now how to or der. P ass on the Westernized menu and ask what fr esh fish is a vailable. Order it prepared simply with garlic or salt and pepper, and be ready for a delicious feast. See p. 120.
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SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
! Chinatown
to socializ e. Check out the fascinating, seemingly chaotic gr ocery stor es, befor e turning left to ward G rant S treet, which runs parallel to S tockton S treet. G rant Street is the tourists ’ Chinato wn, festooned with colorful banners and offering a dizzying array of knickknacks to buy for the friends back home. Don’t miss Waverly Place, with its painted balconies, and the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Co. on Ross Alley. See p. 165.
4 T H E B E S T O F S A N F R A N C I S CO I N 2 D AYS
3
This second day in San Francisco is likely to be your kids’ favorite. The tour includes two world-class science museums and two par ks (Golden Gate Park and C rissy Field) that rank amongst the lo veliest on the planet. I n addition to the bay vie ws you enjoyed on Day 1, you’ll also get a chance to gaz e upon San Francisco’s other coast, the one lapped by the Pacific Ocean. Note: To fit these sites into one day , I’ve estimated about an hour at each museum. If your kids are science buffs, or ar t aficionados, you may have to skip some of the outdoor sites, like C rissy Field, to hav e more time at the E xploratorium, Academy of Sciences, and/or de Young Museum.
T H E B E S T O F S A N F R A N C I S CO I N 2 D AYS
From the corner of Stockton and Sutter streets, take the no. 30-Stockton bus to Chestnut and Fillmore streets; if going straight to the second stop on the tour, take the no. 30 bus to Broderick and Beach streets. (The no. 30X-Marina express also stops at Chestnut and Fillmore sts. and then at Scott & Beach sts.)
1 Chestnut Street/The Marina District If the kids hav e woken up early and ar e ready to go, head to this popular r esidential str eet lined with r estaurants, shops, and cafes for a taste of S an Francisco city life. There’s a good chance y ou’ll see other
moms or dads out and about pushing strollers and buying the morning paper, or local urbanites popping into P eet’s Coffee & Tea for a double latte before hopping on the bus do wntown. If you have the time, head to The Grove (p. 136), grab a cup of joe and maybe some oatmeal for the kids, and enjoy the local scene. If you got a late start, or if the family linger ed over breakfast at y our hotel, skip this stop and head straight to no. 2.
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
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3
2 Exploratorium
Your kids may well list this highly regarded science museum as their fav orite place in San F rancisco. This hands-on museum offers so many exhibits that y ou r eally should arrive right when it opens at 10am to have a full hour to enjo y just a fraction of them. I f y our kids ar e y oung, they ’ll find easy-to-understand exhibits at the light and optics ar ea at the r ear, while the biology displays on the mezzanine lev el will fascinate older kids. I f a toddler amongst y ou is o verwhelmed b y all the activity, have a par ent take him or her to the back play ar ea for a br eak, but don ’t linger there too long, as ther e is simply so much to see. See p. 160. 3 The Palace of Fine Arts & the Wave Organ When y ou step out of the dar kened Exploratorium Hall into the light of day , take a moment to appr eciate the lo vely scenery at the Palace of Fine Arts (p. 161) abutting the E xploratorium. H ave y our kids look at the ducks and run on the grass before heading nor th on B aker S treet, crossing M arina Boulev ard and continuing to the water ’s edge. Walk onto the breakwater, wher e y ou’ll see the bizarr e Wave Organ (p. 202), created by scientists from the Exploratorium. 4 Crissy Field
Head west to vie w this r estored wetlands area, which less than a decade ago was an unsightly abandoned militar y airstrip . You’ll see joggers, dog walkers, bike riders of all ages, str oller-pushers, and plenty of other locals enjoying what is the y oungest national park in the Bay Area, located next to the Golden Gate Bridge. Crissy Field is best at this time of day, when the morning fog has worn off but the afternoon winds, which attract expert wind- and kite-surfers from thr oughout the B ay Ar ea, hav e not yet picked up.
5 de Young Museum
Now walk or take the P residio-Go shuttle to Richar dson A venue and F rancisco Street. There, transfer to the no . 28-19th Avenue bus. Take it to the corner of F ulton Street and 19th Avenue; then walk east to the de Young Museum (p. 179). M any areas of this terrific museum, including the main lobb y, to wer, and sculptur e garden, are free to visitors. You may want to go first to the cafe for a quick lunch (see “Take a B reak” below). Then head up to the Tower, which affor ds gr eat vie ws of northwest S an F rancisco and the P acific Ocean, vistas y ou won ’t hav e seen fr om Coit Tower. From ther e, y ou’ll also get a bird’s ey e vie w of the astounding living grass roof the California A cademy of Sciences, your next stop on the tour.
6 DE YOUNG CAFÉ
Hop in line t o order creative sandwiches made with sustainable ing redients (even the PB&Js use or ganic peanut butt er), enticing salads , or health y hot dishes . Then grab a table outside t o enjoy lunch by the sculptur e gar den. The k ids can touch the sculptur es and ev en go inside of one as y ou sip y our post-lunch espresso.
7 California Academy of Sciences Step into the most ecological museum building in the world. O pened in September 2008, the much lauded and ecologically cutting-edge Academy of Sciences is home to 40,000 liv e animals, a planetarium, an aquarium, and a natural histor y museum. See p . 178 for ho w to best organiz e y our time here. Beyond the impr essive building itself, there is a lot to see her e. 8 Golden Gate Park
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o St. deerro i ad Divisa
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sy Field
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San Francisco Bay
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more Fi lm Fil
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OCEAN
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California Academy of Sciences
7
de Young Café
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GOLDEN GATE The Legion NAT’L REC. C. AREA– of Honor LINCOLN LAND’SEND AND’SEND PARK
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San Francisco in 2 Days 61
ro SSt. Castro
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3
(p. 173), one of the greatest urban parks in America, has a lot more to offer—but that will depend on how much energy the kids have and ho w much daylight r emains. I f the family is still raring to go, walk fr om the Academy past the lo vely Rose Garden and to ward the Conser vatory of F lowers (p. 175), a stunning glass str ucture o verlooking a garden with thousands of flowers out front. If it’s still open, y ou’ll enjoy the Conservatory’s collection of unusual and exotic plants. O r y ou could head straight across JFK D rive to the Car ousel and the Koret Children’s Quarter, a very large, very creative playgr ound wher e y ou can thank the kids for their patience all day and let them loose for a while. O ther lovely places in the par k—located behind the de Young
in the opposite dir ection fr om the playground—are the J apanese Tea G arden, Botanical Gardens, and Stowe Lake. 9 Ocean Beach
Still raring to go? If it’s a clear day, take the no. 5-Fulton bus (board at Fulton St. and 8th A ve.) out to O cean B each (p . 217). You’ll see a S an Francisco vista too many tourists miss out on. Most tourists only see the part of the city that opens out onto the Bay, missing the entir e w estern shor e of the San Francisco peninsula that abuts the Pacific Ocean. The water at O cean Beach is not safe for swimming, although exper t surfers can’t stay away fr om its po werful waves. If you time it right, y ou’ll enjoy a lovely sunset.
5 T H E B E S T O F S A N F R A N C I S CO I N 3 D AYS If you’re lucky enough to have a third day in San Francisco, then start it by heading back to Fisherman’s Wharf for a tour of iconic Alcatraz Island. You’ll also explore some of the most altered neighborhoods in the city, former industrial areas that now house a growing share of the city ’s cultural and culinar y highlights. Along the way , you’ll find plenty of time for the kids to str etch their legs and r un around. F-Market streetcar to Pier 33 or no. 10-Townsend bus from Sansome and Sacramento streets to the Embarcadero and Bay Street.
1 Alcatraz Island
What could be so special about an old prison? P lenty. To begin with, the ferr y ride over to Alcatraz I sland gives you the chance to get out onto the bay and see how lo vely S an Francisco looks fr om the water. O f course, most kids enjo y a fun boat ride as w ell. The prison audio tour , updated in late 200, is better than ev er, giving y ou the eerie sense of what it was like for prisoners, guar ds, and ev en the guards’ families to liv e on a windsw ept rock in the middle of the bay . You’ll hear about some of the nation ’s most famous criminals and death-defying escape attempts sur e to enthrall kids and adults
alike. O rder tickets w ell ahead of time; online is best, as you can print them out at home and head straight to the ferr y lineup at Pier 33. I recommend taking the first ferry of the day , at 9:30am, as the prison will be less cr owded when y ou arriv e. Bring sw eaters, comfor table shoes, and something to eat (or choose fr om the options—some of them organic—on the ferry), as ther e’s no concession stand on the island. S ee p. 156. ( Note: If you were unable to r eserve Alcatraz tickets in time, take a 1-hour bay cr uise on the B lue & Gold Fleet. In addition to lo vely vistas of the city and an up-close look at the Golden G ate B ridge, an audio track imparts plenty of histor y and local city lore. See p. 185.)
San Francisco in 3 Days
Davis St. St
Drumm St St.
Ave Ave. Gr nt Grant
Tunnel
Battery St. t Front St.
Sansome St.
Kearny St.
Stockton St St.
Montgomery St St.
Mason St. Powe l St. Powell
Pier 7
Jones St. St
St.
rr Ha
AT&T 5 Park
t 7
2
F-Market Streetcar and the Embarcadero Promenade
San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA)
8
3
Ferry Building
Yerba Buena Gardens and Center for the Arts
4
Taylor’s Refresher
9
Civic Center
AT&T Park SoMa
arccad ero
Emb
t. Br
t. dS en ns w t. To gS Kin
10
Café Zuni
11
Frjtz
ge id Br
Pier 30 Pier 32
Pier 38 Pier 40
t. nS
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an
St.
SOUTH BEACH
Alcatraz Island
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Sou h South Beach Marina arin
T H E B E S T O F S A N F R A N C I S CO I N 3 D AYS
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SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
Pier 9
Pier 3 Pier 1 Pier ½ Ferry Justin 3 Building Bu ld Herman 4 Plaza
St. nt South ya Park Br
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St.
4t
5th
t. hS 6t 7th
10
St. 9th St. th
Golden Gate Ave. McAllister St. St. et CIVIC C VIC CENTER ark M 9 t. nS Hayes 11 sio s i St. M 10 St. rd wa o H
St. ion iss
Yerba Buena 7 S O M A Gardens 6 8 Metreon Mosc ne Center Moscone
Eddy St. St Turk St. St
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O’Farrel St. St O’Farrell
o
FINANCIAL DISTRICT
Union Square
Pier 19 Pier 17 Pier 15
sc
Transamerica ransamerica Pyramid Pyram d
UNION SQUARE
P st St. Post S Geary St. St
2
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ci
Sutter St. St
an
Le venwo th St. Leavenworth
Fr
Bu h St. St Bush
Pier 23
St. rt ua St. t. Ste pear ain S . S M St ale t. Be nt S mo t. Fre 1st S
Pi e St. St Pine
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TELEGRAPH HILL
CHINATOWN
E l s St. t TEND RLOIN Ellis TENDERLOIN
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N 0.25 km
ro
Larkin St.
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e. Av
Hyde St St.
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Pier 33 (Ferries to Alcatraz)
S
s
Tunnel PPacific c fic Ave Jackson St. Washington St.
St Clay St. Sacramen o St. NOB HILL Sacramento California St.
Van Ness Ave. Ave
er
NORTH BEACH
Vallejo St. Broadway
ad
Pier 27
Joe DiMaggio DiMagg o Playgrou d Playground Washington Square
St St.
1/4 mi
0
arc
Francisco St.
bu
Green St.
Polk Po k St. St
E mb
Bay St St.
RUSSIAN RUSS AN HILL
Filbert St St. Union SSt.
101
F-Market Streetcar
Pier 35
North Point St. St
lum
Lombard St St. Greenwich ree wich
Powell-Mason and Powell-Hyde Cable Car Lines
PIER 39
Jefferson St. St Beach St.
St Chestnut St.
101
Pier 43
Co
Ghirard lli Ghirardelli Square
P er 45 Pier
California Cable Car Line
To Alcatraz Island
Pier 41
FISHERMAN’S F SHERMAN S WHARF WH R
Aquatic Park
V n Ness Ave. Ave Van
Pier 43½
Hyde St. P Pier
Tay or St. Taylor St
Municipal Pier
63
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
64
T H E B E S T O F S A N F R A N C I S CO I N 3 D AYS
3
2 F-Market Streetcar & the Embarcadero Promenade After Alcatraz, hop on the F-Market streetcar headed to ward M arket S treet. The F-Market line uses r efurbished str eetcars from around the world, so you might find yourself on a turn-of-the-centur y tr olley from Kansas City or an antique str eetcar from Milan. The picturesque streetcars are part of the o verall upgrade to this section of to wn, which was fueled b y the 1989 earthquake that destroyed the unattractive elevated fr eeway that once obscur ed the water’s edge. The ne w pr omenade no w bordering the waterfront all the way fr om Fisherman’s Wharf to A T&T P ark is a delightful place to str oll or cy cle, with 13-foot-tall metal pylons and br onze plaques embedded in the promenade sidewalk and imprinted with photographs, drawings, poetry, and historical facts about the waterfront. 3 Ferry Building
You’ll arrive at the Ferry Building, at once a r eminder of S an F rancisco’s maritime history and a symbol of the city ’s position as an important culinary center. Before the construction of the bay ’s bridges and the underwater BART tunnel, the Ferry Building oversaw one of the most complex ferry systems in the countr y. After a multimillion-dollar r enovation completed in 2003, the Ferry Building is now home to a number of upscale shops offering gourmet, organic, and/or sustainably raised meats, vegetables, breads, chocolates, and even mushrooms. Twice a w eek the F erry Building holds the world-class F armer’s Market, attracting S an F ranciscans of all stripes who ar e passionate about good food and quality ingr edients. Take a moment to walk out back and watch the ferries, which no w primarily ser vice commuters who liv e in M arin County, come and go. See p. 161.
4 TAYLOR’S REFRESHER
To San F ranciscans, high- quality, sustainably pr oduced f ood needn ’t alwa ys be expensive or c omplicated. I t can, and should, be available in the everyday comfort f oods w e all enjo y. St ep inside and order a juic y bur ger made with locally raised meat and t opped with t omatoes and lettuc e fr esh fr om the F armer’s M arket. Your taste buds will notic e the difference between this and an or dinary diner, but your wallet won’t. See p. 125.
5 AT&T Park
This is an optional stop primarily for sports fans, but if you choose to visit you’ll have less time for the attractions in SoMa. If y ou do go, public transpor tation will prove more efficient than feet, so take the N-Judah str eetcar headed to ward AT&T Park. Get off at the 2nd & King S tation. On non-game days, the ballpar k has a playground just for kids. After the kids have had a chance to play , take the no . 15-3rd St. bus to 3r d and Mission streets. See p. 265. 6 SoMa
Like the revamped Embarcadero, this section of town has undergone its own transformation since the early 1990s. O nce an industrial wasteland, S oMa is no w home to many top museums and galleries. The recently opened Contemporar y J ewish Museum (p. 179) is the ne west addition; others include the Museum of the African Diaspora (p . 180), the Car toon Ar t Museum (p . 179), and the SFMOMA, noted belo w. M oreover, the Yerba B uena Center, with its waterfalls, lawn, and playgrounds, provides a pleasant respite. 7 San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA) If y ou only hav e time to check out one museum in S oMa, this should be it. The SFMOMA boasts one of the mor e extensive collections of 20th- and 21st-centur y
art in the countr y, and is housed in an impressive building designed b y the Swiss architect M ario Botta. I f the kids ar e tired—or not big museum-goers—head straight to the permanent collection on the second floor . The wacky Warhols, playful Pollocks, and magical M atisses are sure to perk them up. You’ll also see some impressive sculptures and a Calder mobile or two. See p. 182.
You may want to end y our tour in S oMa. After all, y ou’ve seen a lot in thr ee days.
Since y ou visit ed the F erry Building and saw ho w seriously San F ranciscans take their food, you might as w ell visit one of the first r estaurants in t own dev oted t o delicious, unc omplicated c ooking using local, seasonal ing redients (p. 132). F or a more casual dinner , tr y the off erings at Frjtz, which include crisp y Belg ian fries , salads, and crepes (p. 133).
3 T H E B E S T O F S A N F R A N C I S CO I N 3 D AYS
9 Civic Center
0 ZUNI CAFÉ
65
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
8 Yerba Buena Gardens & Center for the Arts In addition to a 775-seat theater , ar t galleries, and a 5-acre garden, you’ll also find a children’s playground, an antique carousel, and other family-friendly attractions here. I f y ou hav e time, pop into Z eum, where the kids can make their o wn claymation-style film clips or cr eate their own cartoon character. If you want some downtime, have the kids play at the playground or enjoy the fountain dedicated to M artin Luther King, Jr., while you savor the interesting architectural vantage points offer ed in this urban oasis.
However, if the kids ar e old enough to be studying civic history or even architecture, I recommend hopping on a M arket Street streetcar and heading to the Civic Center , built in the grand Beaux Arts style following the devastating 1906 earthquake. Simply walking ar ound the impr essive buildings—including the SF P ublic Library’s main branch, the Asian Ar t Museum, and City Hall—is enough. Your kids may be inter ested to kno w that the dome of City H all is taller than the U.S. Capitol building. Note: I f it ’s late in the day befor e y ou leav e S oMa, skip this stop. The Civic Center gets dodgy at night.
4
Family-Friendly Accommodations Families seeking a plac e to hang
their hats will find plenty of options in San Francisco. In addition to several internationally recognized hotel chains, the city boasts an outstanding collection of smaller hotels in ev ery price categor y. Companies like Joie de Vivre Hospitality and Kimpton hotels hav e transformed a number of historic buildings (and ev en some lo wly motels) into luxurious boutique inns, delightful mid-priced hotels, and inexpensive, but festive, family accommodations. Although downtown hotels rely mainly on convention and business travelers to fill rooms, sev eral hav e become mor e kidfriendly in recent years as more guests take the family along on wor k trips. M any higher-end hotels offer kids ’ gift packs at check-in, and concierges provide information on child-oriented activities in to wn. Several hotel r estaurants also featur e kids’ menus. M oreover, nearly all city hotels allow childr en to stay fr ee in par ents’ rooms and provide cribs at no charge. Because many hotels in the city center are housed in older buildings, guest r ooms are often small and inter connecting r ooms ar e not an option. Small guest rooms also mean that it ’s har d to find tr uly budget options downtown, since r ooms ar en’t big enough for a family of four—meaning y ou’d hav e to spring for a suite or two r ooms. I n the Tips
moderate range, though, you’ll find a bigger selection of Union Square hotels with rooms to fit a family of four . Even with expanded bathroom counter space and other upgrades to better accommodate families, pr epare for cozy quarters in all but the most expensive downtown accommodations. The most family-oriented hotels ar e in Fisherman’s Wharf and the M arina, although the majority lack the charm of the do wntown hotels. B ecause they ’re housed in mor e modern buildings, many have r ooms that will accommodate mor e than just a couple and a crib . You’ll find the best rates in the M arina, but public transportation there is limited to a few bus lines (elsewhere, cable cars, streetcars, and/ or more bus lines ar e also av ailable). It’s a better choice if you’re traveling with a car. When choosing a part of town in which to stay, think about family members ’ special needs or inter ests. Perhaps a little one takes a midday nap , so a central location would be best. I f y ou hav e activ e y oung children, y ou may appr eciate the playgrounds within walking distance of Marina or N ob H ill hotels. Teens may pr efer Union S quare or S oMa for pr oximity to shopping and the Metreon. If your family’s main inter ests ar e classic attractions such as Alcatraz and Ghirardelli Square, Fisherman’s Wharf could be the place (although
Rubber Ducky Not Included
Most hotel bathrooms have combination shower/bathtubs, but lower priced accommodations may have only showers. If your kids are still in the tub-only phase, ask about bathtubs when mak ing your reservation.
67
Tips Reser vation Tips Many hotels provide you with a booking reference number. Upon request, hotels send you written confirmation of your reservation by fax, e-mail, or snail mail. Keep this paperwork handy, as it will be helpful if y ou decide to modify your plans. If you do cancel a reservation, request a cancellation number. This is very important, especially if you made your reservation with a credit card.
4 FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY A CCO M M O D AT I O N S
interconnecting rooms. Just be alert: Many hotels throw a pullout sofa into an extrabig room and call it a “junior suite.” If you want separate r ooms, make sur e that ’s what you’re getting. RESERVATION SER VICES S an Francisco R eservations ( & 800/677-1570 or 510/628-4450; www .hotelres.com) is a Bay Area company with a local call center. This no-fee service has access to hundr eds of B ay Ar ea hotels, a w ell designed w ebsite, and accurate descriptions. O nline resources for ex cellent rates include www . placestostay.com and www.hotels.com. If y ou plan a longer visit, consider bucking the hotel options altogether and lodge in a house or apar tment. Agencies offer furnished apar tments for stays as brief as 4 nights, and some I nternet sites offer home ex changes with families in other cities and countries. I’ ve listed some of these agencies and sites belo w. American M arketing S ystems (www . amsires.com) and Executive Suites (www. executivesuites-sf.com) offer furnished apartment rentals for stays of a few days or more, although rates can be high. Vacation rentals in houses, apar tments, or condos by the night, week, or month can be found through Vacation R entals.com (www . vacationrentals.com) or Home Away.com (www.homeaway.com). To research house exchanges, check out Homelink International (www .homelink.org), Home B ase Holidays (www.homebase-hols.com), and International Home Exchange Network (www.homexchange.com).
FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY A CCO M M O D AT I O N S
the heavy concentration of tourists has its drawbacks, such as o verpriced, mediocr e food). F or mor e information about the lodging merits of each neighborhood, refer to the “N eighborhoods in B rief ” section of chapter 3. To get the most bang for y our buck at any price point, timing helps. If your dates are flexible, you may benefit from reduced hotel rates. Downtown hotels are cheapest on weekends, whereas the opposite is usually tr ue in the M arina and F isherman’s Wharf. During conventions, Union Square and SoMa hotel rates jump, but you could luck out if a hotel hasn’t managed to sell all of its r ooms. I t may be willing to offer steep discounts. Another option is to look into hotels off the beaten track, such as in Japantown or Laurel Heights. Whereas do wntown hotel prices don ’t vary much with the seasons, M arina and Fisherman’s Wharf rates climb in the summer. Given the summertime fog, the price increase has less to do with the best time to visit S an Francisco than with when most families take their v acations. I f y ou buck the tr end and come in the late winter , you’ll save money. The cheapest rooming option is usually one room with two queen-size beds. (Note: Some downtown hotels have small rooms, and so hav e two double beds in place of queen-size beds.) With little ones, that could mean lights out w ell befor e mom and dad are ready to pack it in. If that’s the case, or if y ou hav e older kids who need their space, the next best option is a suite, which tends to r un cheaper than two
FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY A CCO M M O D AT I O N S
68
FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY A CCO M M O D AT I O N S
4
A NOTE ON PRICES I have listed “rack rates”—a hotel ’s highest r oom price—in categorizing my hotel picks. You will probably get a much better quote when y ou call. More than 16 million visitors came to San F rancisco in 2007, pushing hotel occupancy rates to 79%. These numbers may dip along with the countr y’s economic slo wdown—meaning y ou’ll find more weekend discounts, family packages, and other promotions. In this chapter, I’ve classified hotels based on cost for a family of four staying in one r oom, unless a specific hotel has space constraints that require staying in a suite or two connecting rooms. Prices do not include the 14% hotel tax, nor does it include par king, which can r un fr om fr ee to o ver $60 a night. GETTING THE BEST R ATE N early every moderate and high-end hotel I visited insisted that guests can almost certainly book r ooms at rates w ell below the published rack rates—unless sev eral business conventions are in to wn at the same time. The first step is checking multiple sources. S urf the I nternet first and then call both the central r eservations number, if there is one, and in-house r eservations. Find which source has the best deal. Many hotels not only match a rate y ou hav e found on the I nternet but also, in some cases, beat it. It’s impor tant that y ou check with inhouse reservations. I’ve had three different websites indicate a hotel was booked only
Tips
to call the hotel dir ectly and find that it had one room left (a suite, which didn’t fit into the Internet’s standard room category) that could be had for a steal. M oreover, folks in-house can pr ovide the most detailed information about the hotel and the specific r oom type y ou may be interested in. You can also tell the hotel agent that y ou ar e trav eling with childr en and inquire about special offers they may have. As your arrival date nears, inquire again about any special deals. A t check-in, don’t hesitate to ask if you can upgrade to a bigger room or a higher floor. If the hotel has no hope of selling these better r ooms for the next few nights, they may be willing to upgrade you at no additional charge. KITCHENETTES Kitchenettes are a rarity in San Francisco, and I’ve noted nearly all that are available. Reserve for them well in advance. POOLS Some kids will be happy anywhere y ou take them as long as ther e’s a pool. B ut giv en S an Francisco r eal estate prices, few hotels devote precious space to swimming facilities, and most pools that do exist ar e petite. Almost all the S an Francisco hotels with pools ar e listed in this chapter. ACCESSIBILITY The Americans with Disabilities A ct r equires that hotels built within the past 20 years accommodate the needs of disabled trav elers. However, San Francisco hotels are often located in older
Meals on a Budget
Having breakfast in your hotel room cuts back on restaurant bills. Also, some kids wake up at the crack of da wn when in new surroundings or time zones, well before any cafes are open. If you can’t get a kitchenette, a fridge (and a coffeemaker for mom and dad) will do. If they’re not already in your room, many hotels will provide these at no charge. Buy some disposable dishware, plastic cutlery, and some milk and cereal (or bread and butter, if that’s what you’re used to at home) and you’re all set.
Tips
69
The Corner Room
Don’t forget to ask if the hotel has a corner room. In some instances, the corner room has more light (windows on two walls) and more space than a standard room, but costs the same.
for a pr operty that ’s been r emodeled recently or built after 1985. D iscuss your needs with the reservations clerk.
1 UNION SQUARE/FINANCIAL DISTRIC T This is the heart of the city, the focal point for shopping and entertainment. It’s exciting, urban, and uniquely S an F ranciscan—and it ’s wher e y ou’ll find the gr eatest range of accommodations. The downside for some families is the congestion and lack of gr eenery.
VERY EXPENSIVE
Hotel Nik ko
222 Mason St. (btw. Ellis and O’Farrell sts.), San Francisco 94102. & 800/248-3308 or 415/394-1111. Fax 415/394-1106. w ww.hotelnikkosf.com. 533 units , including 22 suit es. $189–$359 double; $350–$2,900 suite. Kids under 18 stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways $30; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $40; oversized vehicles $45. P ets welcome. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; health club; spa (as of 2009); concierge; business center; JTB Travel agency; Enterprise Car Rental; salon; gift shop; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning; executive level rooms. In room: A/C, TV, fax, dataport, wireless Internet access, minibar, fridge (on r equest), coffeemaker, hair dr yer, iron, safe, CD pla yer, iPod dock.
4 U N I O N S Q UA R E / F I N A N C I A L D I S T R I C T
Although this Eastern-influenced hotel caters largely to corporate travelers, it holds one of the fe w, and one of the most spacious, indoor swimming pools in the city. The pool is connected to the N ikko’s health club , but the staff insists that guests tend to exercise in the early morning and evening, which means the rest of the day children can splash around freely. The pool is located in an expansive glass-roofed atrium, which also houses ex ercise equipment and J apanese hot tubs, so y ou can wor k out or enjoy a soak while y ou keep on ey e on the kids. A full-ser vice spa is set to open in 2009. Decor is tastefully understated, and rooms get a lot of natural sunlight. With a pullout sofa and “ guest washr oom,” the N ikko’s junior suites ar e quite family-friendly . E ven standard double-double rooms are large and hav e entryways that give the impression of more space. Views start above the 10th floor. Rooms on the three executive-level “Nikko Floors” also hav e vanities and mor e spacious bathr ooms, and the N ikko Lounge offers board games and I nternet access, so y our teenagers can still IM their pals at home. The Nikko welcomes all pets. ( Just be sur e to inform the hotel if y ou plan to leav e a G reat Dane in y our r oom for the day , so they can aler t the housekeeping staff!) The white marble lobby is stark, but kids will enjoy the indoor fountain, which has become a multicurrency wishing well. The hotel houses an on-site Starbucks and Anzu restaurant, which specializes in sushi and steak, but has a childr en’s menu as well.
FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY A CCO M M O D AT I O N S
buildings that are exempt from this rule. If you or any one in y our family r equires appropriately designed hotel r ooms, look
5
6
Sutter utter St.
Cosmo Pl Pl. 12 13
10
St. Post St
11
14
9
UNION SQUARE 15
Gearyy St Ge St.
19
O’Far ell St O’Farrell St.
20
Ellis St St.
21
TENDERLOIN 22
Eddy St. St
BART BART/Muni Powell St. St Station Stat n
Bay Bridge B
23
Turk St St.
1 80
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SAN FRANCISCO
0
M
100 yds
N 0
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7 8
St St.
UNION SQUARE/FINANCIAL DISTRIC T
Pine St. St
Powell-Mason and
Powell-Hyde Cable Cars
4
Bush St.
Area of detail
PRESIDIO
California St. 2
3
Masonic Auditorium
NOB HILL
1
Cyril Magnin
PACIFIC OCEAN
Huntington Park C lifornia Cable Car California
s n St Mason M
Golden 101 Gate Bridge 1
Sacr me to St Sacramento St. Grace Cathedral
Taylorr St Tay
Chancellor Hotel 8 Donatello 11 Fairmont Hotel 1 Four Seasons 28 Galleria Park Hotel 30 Golden Gate Hotel 5 Halcyon Hotel 13 Handlery Union Square 16 Hostelling International San Francisco, Downtown 19 Hotel AbRi 21 Hotel Adagio 14 Hotel Beresford Arms 12 Hotel Bijou 22 Hotel des Arts 31 Hotel Metropolis 23 Hotel Milano 24 Hotel Monaco 17 Hotel Nikko 20 Hotel Triton 32 The Huntington Hotel 3 The Inn at Union Square 9 JW Marriott Hotel San Francisco 10 Larkspur Hotel 6 Mark Hopkins InterContinental 2 Nob Hill Inn 4 The Orchard Garden Hotel 34 The Orchard Hotel 33 Palace Hotel 29 Ritz-Carlton 35 San Francisco Marriott 25 Serrano Hotel 18 Sir Frances Drake 7 St. Regis Hotel 27 Westin St. Francis 15 W Hotel 26
Shannon St.
4
Accommodations Near Union Square & the Financial District
JJones es SSt
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30
Campton Pl Pl. Stockton Sto kto St
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U N I O N S Q UA R E / F I N A N C I A L D I S T R I C T
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S Sansome St S
St
Bu h St Bush St.
31
32
FINANCIAL DISTRICT
C aude Ln. Claude
33
Pine St St. Belden Pl Pl.
Gran Ave. Grant
Street Dashiel Hammett St.
34
Montgomery St
St. Mary’s Square
35
Kearny St St. St George Alley
Tunnel
Stockton
Californ a Cable Car California Ca
Ha leck St. Halleck
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Taking the Night Off
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See the “Fast Facts” appendix at the end of this book f or information on hiring babysitters. When a hotel says it provides babysitting, it really means it has a list of recommended agencies that provide bonded, screened caregivers. It’s up to you to make the arrangements, which ideally should be done in advanc e.
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JW Marriott Hotel S an Francisco The JW Marriott has two key things going for it. First off, rooms are big; deluxe rooms with two double beds hav e 400 square feet of space—enough for a whole family and its luggage. S econd, when conv entions aren’t in town, you can often get them at a steep discount—down from $359 to $199. Not bad for accommodations with the perks of a top-tier hotel, including lux e bathrooms (think deep-soaking tubs, separate sho wers, and gleaming marble), L CD TVs, and city vie ws from the higher rooms. Imagine this: you ask for a corner room with king-size bed, which is more spacious and light-filled than r egular rooms with a king-siz e bed, but costs the same. Then you interconnect to a r oom with two double beds. A t off-peak times, that’s a sweet setup at a luxur y hotel for $400 and change. I n fact, the r ooms with king-siz e bed alone are so spacious (corner or not) that y ou could add a r ollaway and a crib , and still won’t trip over luggage on a nighttime trip to the bathr oom. There’s no doubt the JW Marriott is big. The walk from the elevator to your room— with kids tired after a day of sightseeing—can be long. B ut at least the walk bor ders an impressive, 18-story atrium. From the lobby, the hotel’s uninhibited architecture is further enhanced by bold red furniture, an elegant, modern fireplace, and a towering sculpture of ladies dancing around a fountain. Guest room decor, which was newly redone in 2008, is uninspired, but that’s a trivial matter when y ou consider the value for money if you time your visit well (for example, when there aren’t many business travelers in town). Only in the hotel ’s 800-squar e-foot Pacific suites is the carpeting just too much: The dizzying circles look better suited to a hotel on the Vegas strip. Those suites, with a room with king-size bed and a separate living r oom with a sofa (not all ar e sleeper sofas) normally go for $1,000, but can be had for half that if occupancy is low. Another option are the one-room junior suites, where you can add two rollaways if you want. 500 Post St. (at M ason St.), San F rancisco, CA 94102. & 800/605-6568 or 415/771-8600. F ax 415/3980267. www.jwmarriottunionsquare.com. 337 units, including 8 suites, all non-smoking. $299–$499 double; from $670 suite. Kids under 12 stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways at varying prices; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $42; o versized vehicles $48. Amenities: Restaurant; fitness c enter; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, high-speed Internet access, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, CD player.
EXPENSIVE
Galleria Park Hotel
Closer to the financial district than other hotels in the U nion Square vicinity, this small, luxury property is quieter at night than many other downtown hotels. Setting it apar t from its competitors ar e a unique r ooftop jogging track/gar den that offers an out-of-the-way spot to let off some steam and an easy-access parking garage underneath the hotel. If you have a car and need it quickly , the valet won’t have to hike a few blocks to fetch it. Beyond proximity to several convenient, casual eateries, the hotel was slated to open its own restaurant in January 2009, which will offer “California fresh” cuisine using local, organic, and seasonal ingr edients.
191 Sutter St. (at Kearny St.), San Francisco, CA 94104. & 800/792-9639 or 415/781-3060. Fax 415/4334409. w ww.galleriapark.com. 177 units , including 15 suit es. $139–$259 double; $199–$599 suit e. K ids under 12 sta y free in par ent’s room. Rollaways $20; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet park ing $35; oversized vehicles $48. Amenities: Restaurant; ex ercise room; concierge; room ser vice (5–9pm; 24 hr . room service to begin in 2009); babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, free wireless high-speed Internet access, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, iron, safe, CD player, iPod dock.
501 Geary St. (at Taylor St.), San F rancisco, CA 94102. & 800/214-4220 or 415/292-0100. F ax 415/2920111. w ww.monaco-sf.com. 201 units , including 35 suit es. $229–$409 double; $379–$649 suit e. K ids under 17 stay free in parent’s room. No rollaways; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $39; oversized vehicles $45. Pets welcome. Amenities: Restaurant; bar ; health club; spa; c oncierge; courtesy car; business c enter; 24-hr . r oom ser vice; in-r oom massage; bab ysitting; laundr y ser vice; dr y cleaning . In room: A/C, TV/DVD and games , dataport, free wireless high-speed I nternet access, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, CD player.
Hotel Triton You’ll score big points with your pre-teens or teenagers at this rock ’n’ roll–themed boutique hotel. Staffed by creative types wearing studded leather belts or hipster outfits, this may be the zaniest pr operty in the color ful Kimpton chain. The fantastical lobby decor is riv aled only b y the gr oovy tunes spun b y the hotel staff , and suites have been designed by the likes of Carlos S antana, Jerry Garcia, and Woody Harrelson. The eco-friendly hotel uses biodegradable cleaning pr oducts, r ecycles as much paper as possible, and even serves organic coffee. That coffee is served with biscotti lobbyside in the morning, while in the ev enings a DJ often pr ovides music to accompany the daily free wine and beer hour.
4 U N I O N S Q UA R E / F I N A N C I A L D I S T R I C T
Hotel Monaco A star in the Kimpton hotel chain, this refurbished 1910 landmark is a refreshing change from other high-end hotels. The Art Deco decor in the impressive lobby is vibrant and festiv e, and sure to please any child who sees it. Kids will also lo ve the freshly baked cookies at the front desk and the pet goldfish that keeps them company in their hotel room (on request). This property is so pet-friendly it offers special packages for pooches, and guests actually check in with dogs mor e regularly than with childr en. Parents will like the complimentary wine and cheese reception in the lobby daily at 5pm. Dining options ar e the G rand Cafe (p . 107), inside a beautifully r estored turn-of-the20th-century ballroom, and the Petit Cafe, with simpler fare more suited for kids. Adults can take turns pr etending they’re at a r esort at the ne wly renovated spa and health club on the bottom floor. If you’re flying, check to see if the house car is available to take you to the airport; the cost is about the same as a taxi. The vividly designed rooms and bathrooms are larger than those at the Serrano down the block; the doubles her e are just spacious enough for a crib . Suites come with a v ery large bathroom, sofa bed in the living r oom, a VCR, and two televisions.
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Purchased by the J oie de Vivre hotel chain and completely r emodeled in 2007, the hotel boasts vibrant, inviting Ar t Deco decor r eminiscent of the glamor ous 1920s and ’30s. Guest rooms, with playful gr een walls accented b y luscious slate-gray taffeta curtains, ar e not especially large in this 1911 building. B athrooms also completely lack counter space. But the bold interior design, F rette linens, bathrobes, very friendly staff, flatscreen TVs, and other per ks make up for the small- to moderately siz ed rooms. The hotel has 14 “junior suites, ” really just somewhat larger rooms with a king-siz e bed and a pullout sleeper sofa. Rates for these ar e usually in the high $200s, while two-r oom suites can go for mor e than $400. R ooms with two double beds ar e usually just under $200. Because it’s a business-oriented hotel, you’ll find the best deals on weekends, where prices can be slashed up to 40%.
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Making the Most of the Concierge
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Nearly all upscale hot els ha ve c oncierges, and man y smaller inns off er c oncierge ser vices from the fr ont desk. Too often, these people go underutiliz ed by guests who don ’t k now the full range of ser vices concierges can pr ovide. Beyond mer ely g iving dir ections t o F isherman’s Wharf, c oncierges ar e ther e to act as guests ’ problem solvers. The best ones take r eal pleasure in helping , and the mor e challeng ing the r equest, the bett er. When y ou’re on vacation, why not truly r elax, and let the c oncierge be y our personal assistant during your stay? • House cars: Upper- end hot els of ten ha ve house cars a vailable t o dr op off guests in the F inancial District or elsewher e within 2 t o 5 miles of the hot el. Businesspeople use the ser vice most, but an y guest can enjo y this perk . I f you want to take the k ids to AT&T Park to watch some baseball, or you need a ride to a restaurant, request a house car through the concierge desk. There’s usually no char ge, but y ou may tip the driv er at y our discretion. • Restaurants: Every concierge will make dinner r eservations for guests, and I recommend having the c oncierge phone ahead no matt er where you are dining. If a restaurant is booked, the concierge may have more pull squeezing y ou in than y ou w ould on y our o wn. But don ’t ask the c oncierge f or any old r estaurant r ecommendation. (I’ ve been t o some unr emarkable, touristy places that wa y.) I t’s more effective to name t wo or thr ee options and have the c oncierge t ell you more about each one . • Other services: You needn’t limit r equests to restaurant reservations. Concierges can also book Alcatraz or other cruises , car r entals, or ev en spa treatments—whatever r equires a phone call . They can buy tickets t o a sporting or ent ertainment venue or amend airline r eservations. • Solutions: Did a child get sick? Head right t o the concierge, who will make it a personal mission t o ensure a doc tor sees y our k id as soon as possible . Concierges will also oblige less ur gent r equests, like r eserving doggy da y care or finding a last-minut e gift. You don’t even have to be checked int o the hotel. You can fax and e -mail the c oncierge with y our arrival dat e and particular request. I f he or she does go bey ond the call of dut y, gratuities are always appreciated—although never expec ted.
Of course ther e’s a catch: The whimsical r ooms and bathr ooms are teensy. Because interconnecting rooms are not available, families have the choice of occupying two separate rooms, squeezing into a double-double, or reserving a suite. Although kids may love to stay in the R ed Hot Chili Peppers suite, be awar e that most suites ar e actually oneroom studios with a king-siz e bed and a queen-siz e sleeper sofa. Of course, the diminutive size may be worth it if your child is fortunate enough to share an elevator ride with one of the many bands that often stay at the hotel. 342 Grant Ave. (at Bush St.), San F rancisco, CA 94108. & 800/800-1299 or 415/394-0500. Fax 415/3940555. w ww.hoteltriton.com. 140 units , including 7 suit es. $109–$149 double; suit es fr om $269. K ids under 12 stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways $13; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $38. Pets
welcome. Amenities: Exercise room; concierge; business c enter; room ser vice (limited hours); laundr y service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV/DVD and games, free wireless high-speed Internet access, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, CD player, iPod available.
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The Inn at Union Square This diminutive hotel primarily ser ves business travelers
440 Post St. (btw. Mason and Powell sts.), San Francisco, CA 94102. & 800/288-4346 or 415/397-3510. Fax 415/989-0529. w ww.unionsquare.com. 30 units, including 11 suit es. $239–$249 singles only ; $269– $329 suite. Kids under 14 sta y free in parent’s room. Rollaways $25; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $36; oversized vehicles $41; self-parking $25. Amenities: Laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: TV, dataport, CD player, wireless high-speed Internet access, hair dryer, iron, safe, CD player.
The Or chard G arden Hotel
466 Bush St. (at Grant A ve.), San Francisco, CA 94108. & 888/717-2881 or 415/399-9807. Fax 415/3939917. w ww.theorchardgardenhotel.com. 86 units , including 9 suit es. $199–$339 double; $349–$489 suite. Rollaways $25; cribs $10. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $40. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; exercise room; concierge; courtesy car; room service (limited hours); laundr y service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, dataport, free high-speed Internet access, fridge, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, CD player, iPod alarm clock.
The Orchard Hotel This is one of the few downtown boutique hotels constructed as an entirely new building (in 2000). That means you get spacious rooms compared to other nearb y hotels in this price categor y, large bathr ooms with separate sho wers and tubs, and nicely soundpr oofed walls. Since each floor has fe w rooms, and therefore less foot traffic, the hotel says the only noise you’re likely to hear is the occasional ring of the cable car bell. The still-new decor has an Art Deco touch with plenty of wood and muted colors. Only the waterfall-type fountain in the lobby seems out of place. Funky fountains aside, pluses at the O rchard include complete entertainment centers in every room, free DVDs, complimentary “Euro-continental” breakfast (the “Euro” part means cheeses and cold cuts ar e ser ved alongside the fr eshly baked pastries), and A veda products. Should you find the platform beds too firm, you can request a pillow-top mattress cover. Finally, the hotel is one of a handful of S an Francisco hotels that hav e earned a “G reen Seal of
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The first hotel in California hotel to r eceive LEED-NC certification (Leadership in Energy & Environmental Design for New Construction) from the U.S. Green Building Council, the Orchard Garden followed opened after its sister pr operty, the O rchard H otel, earned a steady , satisfied clientele for its efficiency, pleasant decor , comfor table beds, and envir onmental friendliness. The Orchard Garden shares these same qualities, with rooms that are slightly more stylish in blond wood and soothing ear th tones. Although it’s priced slightly higher than its sister hotel, the O rchard G arden has mor e family-friendly r oom configurations—including junior suites, with a king-siz e bed and sleeper sofa in one r oom, that go for mor e than $400 during convention season, but can be had for $229 in the off-peak. A full breakfast can be included for an additional $20 to the r oom rate.
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but is worth considering for its competitiv e rates and location just 1 block fr om Union Square. The bright and air y r ooms come mainly with king-siz e and queen-siz e beds, although there is one room with two double beds. There are no adjoining rooms, but the more spacious rooms can comfortably fit a rollaway, and suites with pullout sofa beds are also available. Every floor (except the second) has a separate clubroom featuring complimentary breakfast in the mornings, wine and appetizers in the evenings, and hot tea and cookies after 8pm. The clubrooms also have fridges for guests’ use. Gym passes are also available. Concierge services are available from the front desk. In all, the hotel’s small size makes for an intimate feel and personaliz ed service, which must be why satisfied guests return again and again.
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Approval” for environmental design, use of biodegradable cleaning pr oducts, and other eco-friendly touches. The major drawback is that the O rchard was originally envisioned as a business hotel, so r ooms are designed for two people. I f your party includes mor e than parents and an infant, you’ll have to get interconnecting rooms or spring for one of the two-room suites, which hav e entertainment centers in both r ooms and can be had for just $100 more than the lowest-available rate on the standard room. Another option is to look into the O rchard Garden Hotel, listed above. 665 Bush St. (at Stockton St.), San Francisco, CA 94108. & 888/717-2881 or 415/362-8878. Fax 415/3628088. www.theorchardhotel.com. 104 units, including 9 suit es. $179–$439 double; $279–$439 suit e. No rollaways; cribs $15. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $34. Amenities: Restaurant; bar ; exercise room; concierge; courtesy car; room service (limited hours); laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV/DVD w/movies and games, dataport, free high-speed Internet access, fridge, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, CD player.
Serrano Hotel The S errano is one of the mor e family-friendly options in the neighborhood. The richly colored Spanish Revival lobby isn’t overwhelmingly large, and cozy seating under a beamed ceiling is arranged in small groups. During the complimentary evening wine reception, a tarot card reader drops by to entertain. As at most Kimpton hotels, one TV channel is dedicated to y oga, and a complimentar y yoga basket is available. Guests can borrow games from an extensive game library to play in the lobb y or in their r ooms. In keeping with the whimsical theme, y ou’ll find y o-yos, mini E tch A S ketches, and car ds, all for a fee, in the minibars. Another unique per k for y oung families are complimentary strollers and booster seats. Check the w ebsite for family and pet packages. The building dates from the 1920s, although it was entirely renovated in 1999. Rooms are lushly designed with warm colors and patterns, double-paned windo ws, and small, well-stocked bathr ooms. D ouble-doubles ar e too small for a family of four . I nstead, consider a queen delux e with a connecting double-double (best for large families); an executive king with a bed, sofa bed, and large marble bathr oom; or a suite. The suites have a king-siz e bed and king-siz e sofa bed, each in its o wn room. Corner r ooms have views and are a bit more spacious. The hotel’s Ponzu restaurant serves breakfast and tasty Asian-inspired dinner dishes. 405 Taylor St. (at O’Farrell St.), San Francisco, CA 94102. & 866/289-6561 or 415/885-2500. Fax 415/4744879. www.serranohotel.com. 236 units, including 129 suites. $159–$299 double; $279–$499 suit e. Kids under 18 stay free in parent’s room. No rollaways; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $40 oversized v ehicles $49. P ets w elcome. Amenities: Restaurant; ex ercise r oom and sauna; business c enter; room service (limited hours); bab ysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/movies and games, dataport, free high-speed I nternet access, minibar/fridge, hair dr yer, iron, laptop-size safe, iPod dock.
Sir Francis Drake If you can snag a gr eat deal at this historic hotel, it ’s an option worth considering. But if you can’t find a room rate well below the advertised rack rates, I wouldn’t recommend it. Cer tainly, the 1928 hotel is in a pr emier location b y Union Square and on the cable car line. The Harry Denton Starlight Lounge on the top floor is legendary, only slightly less famous than the hotel ’s beefeater-clad doormen. ( Tom Sweeney, who has been opening doors to guests for mor e than a quar ter-century, is a verifiable San Francisco icon.) And the grandiose, chandelier-lit lobb y, complete with a sweeping marble staircase, offers a majestic taste of the O ld World. Unfortunately, many of the color fully decorated rooms are small, and the bathr ooms even tinier, with har dly any counter space. B ut if y ou don’t mind forgoing queen-siz e beds, the executive double-double rooms are relatively spacious and have a bonus second
bathroom. They can be had for $199, if y ou search the Kimpton w ebsite for specials. There are some interconnecting rooms as well. Unlike at other Kimpton properties, you will find neither complimentary morning coffee nor afternoon wine in the lobby, but the hotel does have two good restaurants on site: Caffe Espresso and Scala’s Bistro. The view is better and the street noise less audible on the upper floors.
Westin St. Francis Overrated
335 Powell St. (at Geary St.), San Francisco, CA 94102. & 800/WESTIN-1 (937-8461) or 415/397-7000. Fax 415/774-0124. www.westin.com. 1,195 units. $149–$569 double; $250–$5,000 suit e. Kids under 18 sta y free in parent’s room. Rollaways and cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $45; oversized vehicles $52. Small dogs welcome. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; health club; concierge; business center; shopping arcade; 24-hr. room service; massage; bab ysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, high-speed Internet access, minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe.
MODERATE
Chancellor Hotel
Across the str eet fr om S aks Fifth Avenue and less than a block from Union Square, the Chancellor , built in 1914, is a typical old-time S an Francisco hotel. The rooms are small and the furnishings ar e very basic, although in some r ooms the back wall is painted in an unusually bright hue. B ut the prime location makes this place worth looking into, as do nice touches such as coffee, apples, and cookies at the reception desk; a pleasant staff; free local calls; and a pillow menu with selections such as firm, soft, hypoallergenic, down, and even snore-reducing (useful when sharing r ooms). Rooms come with one queen-siz e bed or two twin beds, and inter connecting rooms are available. The hotel has two suites, each with a double bed and pullout sofa. F rom
4 U N I O N S Q UA R E / F I N A N C I A L D I S T R I C T
The historic St. Francis Hotel, a sur vivor of the 1906 earthquake, is a v eritable hubbub of activity . With its location just acr oss from Union Square and steps away from serious shopping, downtown theaters, and the cable cars, the hotel’s expansive lobby has always been a conv enient meeting place for tourists, walking tours, friends taking tea, and the occasional elementar y school gr oup on a field trip to ride the glass elev ators to the 27th floor . Travelers under 12 r eceive Westin Kids Club backpacks with age-appr opriate pr omotional items like light socket co vers and sippy cups. Rooms are outfitted with comfor table “Heavenly Bed” and “H eavenly Bath” and good linens. Despite its siz e, perpetually cr owded lobb y, and, quite frankly , impersonal feel, the hotel’s prime location on U nion Square seems to make it v ery popular. If high energy, location, and the historical aspects intrigue y ou, her e’s some advice: P hone in-house reservations and be as specific as possible about y our needs. P rices can fluctuate wildly due to the many r oom configurations, some less desirable than others. S tandard queen rooms are barely large enough for two . Traditional queen r ooms have more space, and can accommodate a crib or r ollaway. The deluxe double-doubles are very spacious with renovated bathrooms, and the Grandview rooms have smarter decor. Ask for a view or a corner room if you want natural light and avoid rooms by the ever-busy elevators. Hallways go on for ever. If your child has forgotten his sw eatshirt, you’ll have to go back to the room with him unless he’s outfitted with a compass and a map .
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450 Powell St. (at Sutter St.), San Francisco, CA 94102. & 800/795-7129 or 415/392-7755. Fax 415/3918719. www.sirfrancisdrake.com. 417 units, including 4 parlor suit es and 1 pr esidential suite. $239–$319 double. Suites from $599. Kids 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways $20; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $45; oversized vehicles $50. Pets welcome. Amenities: 2 restaurants; lounge; exercise r oom; c oncierge; business c enter; r oom ser vice (limit ed hours); bab ysitting; laundr y ser vice; same-day dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV/DVD w/movies and games, dataport, wireless high-speed Internet access, minibar/fridge, hair dryer, iron.
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higher-floor, street-side bedrooms ending in 00 through 05, you’ll have views of the cable cars and U nion Square. Bathrooms are moderately siz ed, and each tub comes with its own rubber ducky. The in-house restaurant, Luques, serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Older kids will appreciate the fr ee high-speed I nternet access av ailable in the lobb y. Check the w ebsite or call the hotel about special package rates, which can be much lo wer than published rates. 433 Powell St. (bt w. Post and Sutt er sts.), San Francisco, CA 94102. & 800/428-4748 or 415/362-2004. Fax 415/362-1403. w ww.chancellorhotel.com. 137 units , including 2 suit es. $175 double; $230–$300 suite. No rollaways; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $28; oversized vehicles $32; self-parking $22. Amenities: Restaurant; concierge; room service (7am–10pm); laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: TV w/movies, dataport, high-speed Internet access, fridge (on request), hair dryer, iron, safe.
Donatello Value
An unfor tunate pr oduct of 1970s ar chitecture, the D onatello is rather unsightly on the outside. N ot to worry: The weathered concrete facade is a small price to pay for one of the best family deals in the ar ea. Operated by a timeshare company, the D onatello offers some rar e perks for a U nion Square hotel in its price range. First off, all the beds are king-size. Second, many rooms have pullout sofas that sleep an extra two family members—ev en if the sofa beds do take up most of the space in the room once they’re open. Third, the rooms have partial kitchenettes, complete with a mini refrigerator, microwave, toaster, sink, and tableware. Finally, a complimentary continental breakfast is served in the club room upstairs. Add to that a friendly in-house staff, new carpet laid down in 2006, new beds in 2008, big counters and tubs in the bathr ooms, sizable closets, and complimentar y coffee/tea/ hot chocolate, and you’ve got yourself a deal. And I shouldn’t fail to mention the fitness center with men’s and ladies’ saunas and a coed J acuzzi, plus a separately managed r estaurant on the second floor.
501 Post St. (at M ason St.), San F rancisco, CA 94102. & 866/729-7182 or 415/441-7100. F ax 415/8858842. www.shellhospitality.com. 142 units (all ar e studio suit es with k ing beds and sleep sofas). $209– $295. Rollaways and cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $20 plus tax or $6/hr . with in-and- out privileges. Amenities: Restaurant; health club; Jacuzzi; sauna; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, dataport, high-speed Internet access, fridge, kitchenette, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, CD player. Value A family-owned and -operated hotel for mor e Handlery Union S quare than 60 y ears, the all nonsmoking H andlery is notable for being the only do wntown hotel with an outdoor, heated pool. The pool isn’t huge, but it ’s hugely popular—especially after 4pm when guests return from a day of sightseeing or shopping. The Handlery is also so close to U nion Square’s central plaza that y ou can see it fr om the fr ont door. With its pool and location, no wonder the lobb y is always packed. M oreover, bedding, curtains, and other “ soft goods ” w ere r eplaced in late 2008. The r ed-accented beige designs are simple and pleasant, and ne w furnishings ar e expected in late 2009. G uest rooms and bathr ooms in the historic, 1908 G eary Street building ar e small—the kingsize-bedded standar ds hav e just enough r oom for a crib . That said, the family suites, ranging from $245 to $399, are an excellent option for large families. There, a queen-size bed, two double-doubles, and a sofa bed accommodate a total of six sleepyheads. For standard rooms, it’s worth the long walk fr om the lobb y to the Club R ooms on the O’Farrell Street side, where rooms are larger and include a dr essing area, robes, and extra amenities. (There’s a hotel entry on O’Farrell St. as well.) Many of the Club Rooms, which aren’t much more expensive than those in the historic section, o verlook the tiled
pool deck, wher e guests gather in the late afternoon for a r efreshing dip after a day of shopping or sightseeing. Connecting r ooms are available, as are rooms with two queensize beds. Club Rooms also have sleeper sofas for added value, and rollaways are only $10. The Daily Grill, the hotel ’s on-site r estaurant ser ving American comfor t food, is o verpriced. Since you’ll be right downtown, you can find better food close b y.
127 Ellis St. (bt w. Powell and M ason sts.), San Francisco, CA 94102. & 866/778-6169 or 415/392-8800. Fax 415/398-2650. www.monticelloinn.com. 91 units, including 28 suites. $209 double; $249–$359 suite. Kids under 18 stay free in parent’s room. No rollaways; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $43; oversized vehicles $53. Amenities: Restaurant; concierge; room service (limited hours); laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, datapor t, complimentary wireless Internet access, minibar, coffeemaker (on request), hair dryer, iron, safe, iPod dock. Value The H otel A dagio is one of the better v alues in U nion Hotel A dagio Square. Inspired by the color scheme of the original 1929 S panish Revivalist decor, the hotel’s modern furnishings come in pleasing shades of burnt sienna, orange, and chocolate br own. G uest r ooms ar e mor e spacious than in most historic buildings, and the bathroom fixtures have been completely updated as w ell. Although bathr oom counter space is limited, it is mor e generous than at other do wntown hotels in this price range. Moreover, guest r ooms come equipped with two phone lines (one cor dless), flatscreen TVs, and spacious closets. If y ou go for two inter connecting r ooms (r ooms ending in 04 and 05—a doubledouble and a room with king-size bed), this hotel ends up in the expensiv e category for a family of four . But the r ooms with two queen-siz e beds, of which ther e are 25 in the hotel, are quite spacious and can comfor tably fit four people, with plenty of floor space
4 U N I O N S Q UA R E / F I N A N C I A L D I S T R I C T
Hotel AbRi The Larkspur Hotel group took o ver the J effersonian-styled Monticello Hotel and reopened it in late 2008 with modern, some what masculine, decor. Gone are the festive blue hues of old, replaced by staid beige and brown tones. Wall art, which had not arrived when I visited, will hopefully liv en things up a bit. A t least the interiors ar e spanking new. Beyond that, the hotel offers sev eral two-bedroom suites with king-siz e beds in one room and pullout sofa sleepers in the other . In its early weeks the hotel was offering promotional rates of $229 for the suites, but that number is expected to r each $349/night. The standard rooms with king-size beds will be priced fr om $229 to $309, which is less of a bargain, since r ollaways aren’t allowed. However, the A bRi does hav e eight rooms with two double beds. It claims those double beds, and indeed all of its beds, are the comfiest in to wn, featuring feather mattress pads, feather duvets, and, of course, feather pillows. Bathrooms have decent-sized counter space and half hav e bathtubs. Some suites even have two sinks. AbRi uses all-natural cleaning pr oducts and serves free organic coffee in the morning. The restaurant connected to the building, P uccini & Panetti (p. 108), has a special children’s menu, coloring books, and enough pizza and pasta dishes to calm any hunger pangs. Along with lunch, dinner, and takeout, the restaurant also provides room service from 11:30am to 10pm. A par king lot a half-block away will allo w you to avoid the hefty valet parking fee.
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351 Geary St. (btw. Powell and Mason sts.), San Francisco, CA 94102. & 800/843-4343 or 415/781-7800. Fax 415/781-0216. w ww.handlery.com. 377 units . $199–$289 double; $349–$759 suit e. K ids under 14 stay free in par ent’s room. Rollaways $10; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet park ing $44; o versized vehicles $50. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; sauna; c oncierge; barbershop; gift shop; room service (7am– 10pm); babysitting (arranged thr ough concierge); laundry service; dry cleaning; ex ecutive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, dataport (in club rooms), high-speed wireless access ($9.95/day), coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.
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left o ver for luggage. I n addition, the “junior suites, ” which ar e r eally one big r oom, combine a king-size bed and a queen-size pullout sofa bed. Some of the junior suites also have bigger bathrooms with even more counter space. The ex ercise r oom is spacious and w ell-equipped, and the business center has fr ee high-speed wireless Internet access, as do all the guest r ooms. The lobby serves complimentary coffee in the morning and lemonade and cookies in the afternoon. Although the on-site restaurant, Cortez, is excellent, it’s not ideal for a family meal. 550 Geary St. (btw. Taylor and Jones sts .), San Francisco, CA 94102. & 800/228-8830 or 415/775-5000. Fax 415/775-9388. w ww.thehoteladagio.com. 171 units , including 2 penthouse suit es. From $169 double; from $329 suite. Kids under 18 stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways and cribs $20. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $39; o versized vehicles up t o $75. Amenities: Restaurant; ex ercise room; courtesy car; business center; room service (limited hours); massage (in-room); babysitting; laundry service; same-day dry cleaning; executive-level rooms. In room: Portable A/C, TV w/movies and video games, dataport, free high-speed Internet access, minibar/fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, CD player, iPod dock.
Hotel Bijou Movie-loving families can check out the 10-seat scr eening r oom, “Le Petit Theatre Bijou,” off the hotel lobby. A double bill of films shot in San Francisco plays every evening at 7 and 9:30pm. The hotel will also featur e kids’ movies on r equest at other times of the day. There’s even a candy counter at the front desk, and coffee available any time of day. The Joie de Vivre hotel gr oup livened up this 1911 building with plenty of vibrant paint: think burgundy , y ellow, and purple. B ut the guest r ooms, named after locally made films, remain tiny, and the bathrooms are especially small. Given its location on a less savory section of M ason Street, the B ijou is best left to experienced trav elers with savvy kids who want an inexpensiv e, but fun, hotel. 111 Mason St. (at Eddy St.), San F rancisco, CA 94102. & 800/771-1022 or 415/771-1200. F ax 415/3463196. www.hotelbijou.com. 65 units . $129–$179 double . Kids 12 and under sta y free in par ent’s room. Rollaways $15; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet park ing $28; o versized v ehicles $35. Amenities: Continental breakfast; concierge; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: TV, dataport, wireless high speed internet hair dryer, iron.
Hotel Metropolis The Metropolis is the only hotel in S an Francisco that boasts a suite just for kids. Designed by the hotel’s president, who is also a mother, the kids’ room of the suite has a bunk bed, a child-siz e desk, a huge chalkboar d, and loads of to ys. A bedroom for parents is connected to this miniature play land, as is a living room that can accommodate the nanny or mor e siblings. The suite is fr equently booked and the hotel is considering adding another. If you can’t get the suite, ask if any of the interconnecting doubles ar e av ailable; mor e adv enturous kids may pr efer staying in a guest r oom that actually feels like a hotel, rather than another IKEA-furnished kid ’s room. All rooms are compact and the bathr ooms tiny, but the decor is light and fr esh. You’ll find free coffee in the mornings and a complimentar y wine r eception Fridays and S aturdays from 4 to 6pm. Unfortunately, the hotel is located at the south end of M ason Street, on one of the grittier blocks ar ound Union Square, and I might feel uncomfor table returning late in the evening (although a security guar d is on duty o vernight and the r eception desk is staffed 24 hr.). Even 1 block nor th is an improvement, so just use caution and consider taking a cab if you’re out late. 25 Mason St. (btw. Eddy and Turk sts.), San Francisco, CA 94102. & 800/553-1900 or 415/775-4600. Fax 415/775-4606. w ww.hotelmetropolis.com. 105 units , including 6 suit es. $99–$200 double; fr om $250 suite. Kids under 17 stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways $10; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking
$30, oversized vehicles $36. Amenities: Exercise room; meditation r oom; business c enter; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: TV w/movies and video games (DVD in some rooms), fax, free wireless Internet access, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
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Larkspur Hotel
INEXPENSIVE
Golden G ate Hotel
This charming 1913 E dwardian bed-and-br eakfast sits on a relatively quiet block, close to the cable car lines and within walking distance of N ob Hill, Union Square, and Chinatown. The cozy rooms, decorated with white wicker furniture, antique bur eaus, and floral prints, hav e either two twin beds or one queen and space for little else. At most, you could squeeze a crib into the queen room. Families often choose from one of the two do wnstairs rooms, which share a common bathr oom. One room has two double beds, and the other has a double and a twin. F amilies of four stay for $125 in summer and less in the off-season. Another off-season bargain is a room with a queen-size bed that connects to a tiny r oom with two twin beds—all for as little as $180. (In summer, the rate is much higher .) The queen room has a bath, and ther e are additional shared tubs and toilets in the hall. Innkeepers J ohn and R enate K enaste, and daughter G abriele, ar e polite hosts who maintain some nice touches in their family-r un inn such as vintage claw-foot tubs, an antique bird-cage elevator, and complimentar y afternoon tea with homemade cookies. The continental breakfast included in the r oom rate features coffee, tea, cr oissants, and muffins. There’s also Humphrey, a friendly golden r etriever. Note: During peak months in summer, rates push the Golden Gate into the moderate price categor y.
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524 Sutt er St. (near P owell St.), San F rancisco, CA 94102. & 800/919-9779 or 415/421-2865. F ax 415/398-6345. www.cartwrighthotel.com. 114 units , including 5 suit es. $109–$259 double; $199–$369 suite. Kids under 18 stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways (limited availability) $25; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $40; self-parking $27. Pets welcome. Amenities: Bar; health club; room service (limited hours). In room: A/C (not all r ooms), TV, free wireless Internet access, coffeemakers, hair dr yer, iron/ ironing board, CD player.
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When the Larkspur hotel group took over once-named Car twright Hotel in 2007, they added an old-fashioned bar in the lobby, complete with leather seats and dark wood, naming it “1915” for the y ear the hotel was built. The old-time theme extends to the redecorated guest rooms, where you’ll find chocolate-brown leather headboards and stately , if some what staid, ear th-toned furnishings. I n keeping with the architectural priorities of a near centur y ago, the guest r ooms are rather petite and the bathrooms truly tiny. While some closets ar e teensy, others ar e mysteriously large. You won’t find any views out your window, but you are just far enough away fr om the cable car lines not to hear ev ery bell and whirr. Despite the tiny room size, rollaways are permitted in the larger r ooms, which go for $189 and up. The suites, with a king-size bed in one room, a pullout sofa sleeper in the other, and a wee bathroom in between them, start at about $269. The Larkspur uses only environmentally friendly cleaning products in this non-smoking hotel and proudly serves complimentary organic, locally r oasted coffee in the mornings. The kids will enjo y the freshly baked cookies in the ev enings. Pets are welcome free of charge, and dog biscuits are available anytime in the lobb y. Depending on the time of y ear, be sur e to ask for a room with an air-conditioning unit. Location-wise, the hotel gets extra points. I t’s just north of U nion Square, 3 blocks fr om the Chinato wn Gate, and close to the cable car lines. If you can snag a good rate, and don ’t mind close quar ters, you might appr eciate the Larkspur’s historic feel.
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775 Bush St. (btw. Powell and Mason sts.), San Francisco, CA 94108. & 800/835-1118 or 415/392-3702. Fax 415/392-6202. w ww.goldengatehotel.com. 25 units , some w/shar ed bathr ooms. Rooms w/shar ed bath $105 double; rooms w/private bath $165 double/queen. Rates include continental breakfast. Futon $30; cribs free. AE, DC, MC, V. Self-parking $22. In room: TV, free wireless Internet access, hair dr yer, iron (on request).
Halcyon Hotel Penny pinchers will appreciate this clean, low-key option only a fe w blocks fr om U nion S quare. H ere y ou’ll find r ock-bottom rates; kitchenettes in ev ery room equipped with a toaster, microwave, coffeemaker with complimentar y coffee, and a small fridge; coin-operated laundr y facilities with fr ee detergent and bleach; and a friendly general manager b y the name of D ennis Hale who tr uly wants to ensur e your stay in S an Francisco is a good one. The carpets in the tiny guest r ooms were recently replaced with pleasant laminated flooring in a pale pine style and the hallway floors were also due to be replaced by early 2007. The guest room walls were also slated for painting when this book went to press, something they sorely needed. The mattresses, bedspreads, and furniture could also use replacing, but for these low rates near Union Square, perhaps that’s too much to ask. R oom configurations v ary; one family option is a twin bed bunked over a double bed. The hotel says that, technically, it permits no more than three guests in a room, but does offer a complimentary floor futon “for emergencies.” If anyone in your group has physical limitations, you may want to think twice before booking here, as the hotel is located uphill from Union Square, and once inside, you’ll have to take the stairs. If you have cats or dogs, they ar e welcome to stay for an additional $5 per day . 649 Jones St. (btw. Geary and Post sts.), San Francisco, CA 94102. & 800/627-2396 or 415/929-8033. Fax 415/441-8033. www.halcyonsf.com. 25 units. $79–$129 double; $510–$590 w eekly. Minimum length of stay Oct–Apr is 7 da ys. Kids under 18 sta y free in par ent’s room. Rollaways and cribs $10. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. S elf-parking $14–$16. Amenities: A ccess t o nearb y health club; c oncierge; t our desk ; laundr y facilities; free fax in lobb y. In room: TV (DVD pla yer available for $10), k itchen, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.
Hostelling In ternational S an F rancisco–Downtown For less than $30 per person, your family can experience dorm life in an old San Francisco–style building right in the hear t of Union Square. Occupying five sparsely decorated floors, r ooms here are simple and clean. Each has two or three bunk beds with linens, a sink, a closet, and lockers (bring your own locks or buy some at the fr ont desk). Although most priv ate rooms share hallway bathrooms, a few have private facilities. Prices are per person in the dorm rooms and per double bed in the private room. Since kids under 12 are an additional $14 per night, the hostel option becomes less of a deal when y ou add more than one child. Among sev eral common r ooms is a large kitchen-style r oom with r efrigerator space, toasters, and a microwave, but no stoves or ranges. 312 Mason St. (bt w. Geary and O ’Farrell sts.), San Francisco, CA 94102. & 888/GOHIUSA (464-4872) or 415/788-5604. Fax 415/788-3023. www.sfhostels.com. 105 units (39 privat e, 241 dorm beds). Host elling members $24–$29 per person in dorm; nonmembers $27–$32 per person in dorm; $60–$89 in privat e room w/shared bath; $77–$95 in privat e room w/private bath. No child rat e. Rates include c ontinental breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: TV lounge; full k itchen; Internet access at k iosk for small fee; free wireless Internet access; laundry facilities. In room: Lockers, no phone.
Hotel Beresford Arms This old-fashioned lodging is a true value proposition for families of four and up . A family-o wned hotel with heavy burgundy lobb y decor and slightly scuffed guest room furniture, the Beresford Arms is not going to win any awards for style. But spacious room configurations, most with kitchens or kitchenettes; friendly staff; and lo w rates do keep some customers coming back. All r ooms hav e queensize beds, so here a double-double room actually has two queen-size beds, meaning four
of you can share a room pretty comfortably. Moreover, rooms are big enough to fit your luggage and still leav e y ou space to walk. F inally, the bathr ooms may hav e outdated decor, but they ar e large enough to accommodate a fe w people tr ying to get their teeth brushed and hair combed at the same time. The 60 “J acuzzi” suites all featur e Jacuzzi tubs, and half have full kitchens, while the other half have kitchenettes with no stove. All have refrigerators, which come stocked with minibar items. There’s also a small gr ocery store across the street for other items you may need. At breakfast time, you’ll find coffee, pastries, and fresh fruit in the lobby, where you can also enjoy free Wi-Fi. Cats and dogs are welcome, but usually only in the smoking r ooms.
Hotel des Arts This may be the only place downtown where you can find both a hip
447 Bush St. (bt w. Grant and Kearn y sts.), San Francisco, CA 94108. & 800/956-4322 or 415/965-3232. Fax 415/956-0399. www.sfhoteldesarts.com. 43 units. $75–$250 double; $110–$279 suite. Kids under 18 stay free in parent’s room. No rollaways; no cribs. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Self-parking $26. Amenities: Concierge, non-smoking rooms. In room: TV, complimentary high-speed wir eless access, fridge, iron (most rooms).
2 SOUTH OF MARKET (SOMA) Hotels here are close to shopping, museums, and gr eat family entertainment, including the Yerba Buena Center. As an up-and-coming par t of to wn, SoMa enjoys some of the city’s newest restaurants and attractions. The downside to the ne wness is constant construction. Also, some sections of the neighborhood hav e not yet emerged, and the unsavory 6th and 7th streets should definitely be avoided.
4 SOUTH OF MARKET (SOMA)
vibe and a r oom with queen-siz e bed for under $100. The key to the hipness—besides front desk personnel donning cool duds and funky glasses—ar e a fe w pieces of sleek furniture combined with the contributions of sev eral emerging artists. Your kids will be impressed by the lobby and hallways, which are essentially gallery spaces jampacked with artwork. The permanent works are displayed in the many painted guest rooms, where the walls are literally covered in ambitious and unr estrained paintings. Some room art may be inappropriate for kids, so please tell the staff whether little ones will be in your group. (You should in any case call the hotel to specifically r eserve a painted guest r oom and even to request a particular artist.) One impressive room featuring red and black imagery that may be too bold for young ones is the work of Shepherd Ferry, whose Obama campaign posters have received much attention. The best configurations for families are the eight suites; half of these have two double beds in one room and the rest have a queen-size bed. The second room in each suite has a pullout full-sized sofa sleeper. All have private bathrooms, but not all hav e tubs (only showers). All suites hav e micr owaves and small r efrigerators, but no air conditioning. Additional pluses include complimentar y continental br eakfast and a winning location just 21/2 blocks from Union Square. But remember: While it may be hip, this is a two-star hotel. Rooms are small and the building is old. At an off-peak rate of $149 the suites are a good deal for do wntown San Francisco. But suite prices hit $279 during high occupancy; they aren’t worth that much.
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701 Post St. (at Jones St.), San F rancisco, CA 94109. & 800/533-6533 or 415/673-2600. F ax 415/9291535. w ww.beresford.com/arms. 95 units . $119–$129 double; $140–$159 Jacuzzi suit e. K ids under 12 stay free in par ent’s room. Rollaways $15; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet park ing $24, o versized vehicles $35. Amenities: Access to nearby health club ($10/day); laundry services; free Internet access in lobby. In room: TV/VCR, dataport, minibar, hair dryer (upon request), iron.
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Accommodations Around Town
Franklin St.
Octavia St.
Gough St.
St. Buchanan St
S Webster St.
Steiner St
St P erce St. Pierce
Sco t St Scott
Broderick St
visadero St Divisadero D
Fil more St Fillmore
HEIGHTS Jackson St. St Washington St.
Lafayette Park
Ba er St Baker
Pine St. St Bush St. St
FILLMORE
Laguna SSt.
St Buchanan St.
S. Pierce St
more St Fillmore Fil
HAYES VALLEY
Haight St. St
St
Church St
14th Hennry H ry Stt.
Hermann St St.
Du D boce
Sanchez St
Noe St St.
To the Castro C stro & Noe Valley
Duboce Park Castro St
Buena Vista Park
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St.Ave
Valencia St
Waller SSt.
To the Mission
St
Oak St St. Page St St.
Mission
Fe l St Fell St.
Gough St.
Hayes St. St
St Pi rce St. Pierce
Sco t St Scott
Grove St St.
LOWER HAIGHT
Haight St St.
Jefferson Square Hayward Playground
Fulton St St.
Alamo Square
Page St St.
St. Mary’s Mar s Cathedral Cathedra
O tav a Blvd. Octavia B vd
Divisadero St
Broder c St Broderick
McAllister l ster St St. WESTERN McA ADDITION ADD T ON
St. Ste ner St Steiner
El is St Ellis St. Eddy St St.
Geary Blvd. Blvd Franklin St. St
Kimbell Kimbel Playground
Turk Blvd. B vd
Baker St
13 Japan apan Center 14
Hamilton Rec. Ctr.
St Webster St.
ANZA VISTA
St Lyon St.
JAPANTOWN APANTOWN
Sutter St. St
Alpine Ter
Ashb ry St Ashbury
ayton St Clayton C
HAIGHTASHBURY Co St Cole
Laguna aguna St. St
St. Baker St
Lyon St
esidio Ave. PPresidio
Ave. ve
Lyon St St.
aure St Laurel
Hayes St. St
Masonic Ave
Shrader
Union St. St
California Ca ifornia St. St
Golden Gate Ave. Ave
Grove St. St
To the Sunset Parnassus Ave. District
Filbert F l ert St. St
Broadway
O’Far ell St O’Farrell St.
Central Ave
Co e St Cole
St St.
HOL OW COW HOLLOW
Greenwich St.
Sacramento St St. 1
Lone Mountain Campus
Carl St St.
5
101
4
Post St. St
Masonic
Ave Pa ker Ave. Parker
Anza St St. University of San Francisco
Freder ck St Frederick St.
3
Lombard St. t.
PACIFIC Jackson St St. Alta Plaza Washington Washin ton St. Park Clay C ay St. St
PRESIDIO HEIGHTS
Main Campus
S St
2
Francisco St. St
h ug Go St.
Kezar Stadium
Moscone Recreation Center
Pacifi Ave Pacific Ave.
PANHANDLE Stanyan
PARK
Bay St. S
Chestnut Ches nut St.
Geary Blvd. Blvd
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. vd Bl
THE MARINA
University of San Francisco
GOLDEN
Beach St. St
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Exploratorium/ xploratorium/ Palace alace of Fine ne Arts
GOLDEN GATE NATIONAL RECREATION AREA— THE PRESIDIO
LAUREL HEIGHTS
Fu ton St Fulton St.
a rv
101
Euclid Avee.
To the Richmond District
Fort or Mason M son Center
Marina Green
Mar na Blvd. Marina
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4 SOUTH OF MARKET (SOMA)
San Francisco Bay
The Argonaut 7 Cow Hollow Motor Inn & Suites 3 Harbor Court Hotel 17 Holiday Inn Fisherman’s Wharf 8 Hostelling International San Francisco, Fisherman’s Wharf 6 Hotel Del Sol 4 Hotel Tomo 13 Hotel Vitale 16 Hyatt at Fisherman’s Wharf 9 Hyatt Regency San Francisco 15 Kabuki Hotel 14 The Laurel Inn 1 The Marina Inn 5 Marina Motel 2 Radisson Hotel Fisherman’s Wharf 11 San Remo Hotel 12 Tuscan Inn 10
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3rd St
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Pier 38
Sou h South Beach Be ch Marina ar na
AT&T g St. Park Kin nd se McCovey n w Cove o T . t l S e n y rr Pier 48 an Be St Ch i n nnel s B a Cha Mission Rock a in Terminal MISSION Ch
B AY
Terry Francois Blvd.
St. To Airport
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ader
Kearny St. St
Tunnel Mason St.
Powell St.
Front St. St
Sansome
Jones J nes St. St Jones St. St
Taylor Tay or St.
St Leavenworth St.
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VERY EXPENSIVE
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Four S easons
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The lobb y of this über-luxurious hotel is a sleek, spacious, multi-roomed tribute to Ar t Deco elegance. The extremely professional concierges will stop at nothing to ensur e that ev ery family member ’s needs ar e met. M ilk and cookies greet kids 6 and under; those 7 and up get r oot beer and popcorn. Childr en staying in their own room receive a personal minibar key , entitling them to such goodies as milk, Oreos, and granola bars (and unlike the r oom rates, these snacks—at a dollar or two apiece—are deliberately inexpensiv e to keep par ents happy). The hotel ev en supplies bathrobes to fit every member of the family. Parents of infants get a fully outfitted crib , diaper genie, wipes, baby shampoo, and so on. Each of the tastefully opulent and sizable r ooms is outfitted with a S ony PlayStation and CD player. The concierge can also send up a VCR, DVD player, or board games on request. Several interconnecting rooms, such as a r oom with king-siz e bed and a r oom with double queen-size beds, are available. The junior suites feature a room with king-size bed and living room with a foldout sofa bed. All of the spacious marble bathr ooms have separate tubs and showers. Four Seasons guests have access to the adjacent S ports Club/ LA, which has a pool. F or kids planning to splash ar ound, the concierge will supply passes to the S an Francisco Marriott hotel pool, which is accessible via the hotel ’s back entrance. If you didn’t have to walk out the building to use a pool in a dr eary-looking room, I’d name the F our Seasons the top family hotel in S an Francisco. (As it is, that honor goes to the St. Regis, noted below.)
757 Market St. (at 3rd St.), San Francisco, CA 94103. & 415/633-3000. Fax 415-633-3001. www.fourseasons. com/sanfrancisco. 277 units. $439–$600 double; fr om $845 suite. $30 for 3rd adult in r oom; kids under 18 stay free in parent’s room. No rollaways; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $46. Small pets w elcome (1 per room). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; health club; concierge; courtesy car; business center; room service; massage; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV/DVD w/movies, games, dataport, high-speed Internet access, minibar, coffeemaker (on request), hair dryer, iron, safe, iPod dock.
Palace Hotel This landmark hotel—built in 1875, r ebuilt after the 1906 fir e, restored in 1991, r enovated again in 2003, and still honor ed by the N ational Trust for Historic Preservation—is aptly named. The over-the-top decor, complete with burgundy carpeting, massive chandeliers, marble columns, and the spectacular glass-roofed Garden Court restaurant (made with 80,000 panes of glass), will make kids think they’ve entered into an actual royal residence. Bedrooms, though much less grand, ar e sizable, and even the standard doubles ar e large enough to accommodate a crib . Marble bathrooms and 14-foot ceilings add to the grandeur; in-r oom refrigerators, 24-hour r oom service, and three restaurants, including the excellent Kyo-ya (Japanese/sushi), add convenience. The Palace Spa contains an attractiv e indoor lap pool with a glass ceiling (childr en must be supervised by someone 16 or over).
Fun Facts
Stump the Tour Guide
Everyone knows that Enrico Caruso, the world-famous opera star, was staying at the Palace Hotel when the great earthquake of 1906 struck. He is remembered, too, for running out of the hotel and vowing never to return to San Francisco. Question: What was he wearing when he made his escape? Answer: A towel. I don’t know if he returned it.
The hotel is close to sev eral S oMa attractions, including the SFMOMA and Yerba Buena Center, and the Montgomery Street Muni/BART station and F-M arket streetcar stops are on the corner. At check-in, kids receive gift bags with cups and caps, as w ell as a list of kid-friendly sights and activities. Weekend specials can include rates w ell below the published rack rates.
St. Regis Hotel
125 3rd St. (at Mission St.), San Francisco, CA 94103. & 415/284-4000. Fax 415-284-4100. www.stregis. com/sanfrancisco. 260 units . $339–$689 double; fr om $650 suit e. K ids under 12 sta y fr ee in par ent’s room. Rollaways and cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $45. Pets welcome. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; health club; concierge; courtesy car; business center; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; laundr y ser vice; dr y cleaning . In r oom: A/C, TV/DVD, datapor t, CD , high-speed I nternet ac cess, minibar, hair dryer, iron (on request), safe, CD player, iPod dock.
EXPENSIVE
San Francisco Marriott
I first checked out this hotel because it has a pool, and as I stated at the beginning of this chapter , I intend to list as many hotels with pools as possible—provided they ’re wor th listing. When I walked into the lobb y, I star ted to wonder. S erving guests in a whopping 1,498 r ooms (!), the lobb y of this confer enceoriented hotel is predictably frenetic and crowded at most times of the day. The escalator ride up from the lobby takes you to the mezzanine lev el, inside an ambitious four-stor y
4 SOUTH OF MARKET (SOMA)
For hotels in the upper price echelons, it can be hard to rank one luxurious alternativ e over the other . While I pr efer the F our Seasons for its mor e spacious guest rooms and kid-friendly treats, I give the prize for top luxury family hotel to the S t. R egis for its mar velous pool, a featur e most kids highly priz e. A t the F our Seasons, you have to head out the back door to the M arriott for use of an uninspiring pool in an antiseptic, tiled r oom—not quite the same as popping do wn the elev ator in your swimsuit and plush hotel bathrobe to arrive at a soothing light-filled space housing a glorious, 50-foot-long infinity pool. Kids at the St. Regis are also plenty well pampered. If you talk to the concierge in adv ance, the hotel will invite the kids to “ check in” and sign their names on arrival. Kids will find personalized notes for them in the guest room, as well as a cookie with their own name on it—not to mention kid-sized bathrobes, a toy from the SFMOMA Museum store, and a children’s room service menu. The ne west addition to S an Francisco’s collection of luxur y hotels, the S t. R egis is decidedly sleek and modern, although the liberal use of rich ex otic woods—such as arrestingly beautiful slabs of Mozambican hardwood for the guest room doors and exquisite Polynesian-inspired ar twork using A ustralian lace wood in each guest r oom—keep the place feeling warm and w elcoming. The hotel also boasts $3.5 million wor th of ar t pieces, which could be like a free museum tour for your kids throughout the hotel’s common ar ea. The limestone and marble bathr ooms with deep-soaking tubs and separate showers featuring dual sho wer heads ar e divine, and many r ooms have lovely views of Yerba Buena Gardens. For families, a good configuration could be the king r oom with an interconnecting double-double room. As an extra luxur y, the St. Regis’s Remède spa, sure to become a destination in itself , customizes each treatment to the client in ques tion.
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2 New Montgomery St. (at Market St.), San Francisco, CA 94105. & 800/325-3589 or 415/512-1111. Fax 415/243-8062. w ww.sfpalace.com. 552 units , including 34 suit es. $529–$589 double; fr om $775 suit e. Kids under 17 stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways $50; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $48, oversized vehicles $53. Amenities: 3 restaurants (2 w/kids’ menus); bar; pool; spa/exercise room; concierge; courtesy car; business center; room service; massage; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, DVD (on request), dataport, high-speed Internet access, fridge, hair dryer, iron, safe, CD player (in some rooms).
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atrium decorated with palm trees, fountains, and enough flora and fauna to shame ev en Walt Disney himself. If you can figur e out the complicated elev ator options, including low-rise, mid-rise, and high-rise, all detailed in a lengthy menu posted next to the lifts themselves, then you will eventually find yourself in an endless hallway carpeted in garish colors. Despite all that, it turns out some families keep coming back. Why? First, the indoor pool, which is plenty big and is open from 6am to 11pm. Second, if you can get the right guest room, it can be fairly spacious, and the decor is mercifully more subdued than that found in the hotels’ public spaces. B eds are also reportedly quite comfortable, although the double-doubles really are like enlarged twin beds (not queens). If you can get a room in the high to wer, y ou’ll get a gr eat vie w. With two r estaurants and two delis on the premises, you’ll always find something to feed empty tummies fast. Lastly, while it might be too much for adult sensibilities, the kids will pr obably love the atrium’s over-the-top pseudo tropical decor. 55 4th St. (btw. Market and Mission sts.), San Francisco, CA 94103. & 415/896-1600. Fax 415/486-8101. www.marriott.com. 1,498 units, including 134 suit es. $199–$349 double; $499–$3,250 suit e. Kids under 18 stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways and cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $52. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 3 bars; indoor pool; health club; t our desk; car rental; business center; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/movies (DVD in suites), dataport, high-speed Internet access, hair dryer, iron, safe.
W Hotel
This ultra-hip hotel seems better suited to families with older childr en. Teens will feel quite sophisticated hanging ar ound the lobby or cafe at this trendy hotel, playing the chess or backgammon games that sit on small tables, or taking notes on the hip y oung things that wor k and play her e. Right acr oss the str eet fr om Yerba B uena Center and 1 block from the Metreon, it’s a perfect location for young adults, who could easily entertain themselves for hours at the Metreon alone. The ultra-cool attitude continues in the guest r ooms, which ar e sleek, modern, and subtly accented—rather than overcome—by color. Wall units house enter tainment centers, and shutters r eplace curtains on the windo ws. (The clean lines ar e handsome, but they don’t block light completely.) Sharing a double-double could cut housing rates back to the moderate range. Connecting king and double-double r ooms work well for larger families. Rollaway beds ar e only allo wed in Cool Corner king r ooms. Fantastic Suites, starting at $1,000, connect a Cool Corner r oom with a sitting r oom that has a Murphy bed. Other child-pleasing features include an indoor lap pool and r oom service. Adults will appreciate the views and the 24-hour concierge ser vices.
181 3rd St. (at Ho ward St.), San F rancisco, CA 94103. & 888/625-5140 or 415/777-5300. F ax 415/8177823. www.whotels.com. 423 units . $229–$359 double; $1,400–$2,500 suit e. Kids under 18 sta y free in parent’s room. Rollaways $30; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $45. Dogs and cats w elcome ($25 per da y). Amenities: Restaurant (no k ids’ menus); bar ; pool; ex ercise r oom; c oncierge; business center; r oom ser vice; bab ysitting; laundr y ser vice; dr y cleaning . In r oom: A/C, TV/DVD, fax (in some rooms), high-speed Internet access, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, CD player.
MODERATE
Hotel Milano
Designed to resemble an Italian villa, this small, modern hotel is one of the better S oMa hotels in this price categor y. The convenient location is steps away from several entertainment venues, the Westfield San Francisco Centre shopping mall, the Metreon, and Yerba Buena Gardens. You can also reach the Muni and the F-Market streetcars in moments. Room sizes vary, but the larger rooms are certainly more spacious than typical do wntown hotels in this price range. B athrooms use lots of black marble;
bedrooms ar e masculine in feel with black-trimmed woods and upholster y—but the hotel is o verdue for some fr esh fabrics on windo ws and beds. The double-doubles ar e really dual queens and big enough to shar e with the kids and still hav e space for y our luggage. There are no connecting rooms or suites suitable for a crowd, but the staff does its best to provide families with the largest r ooms available.
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55 5th St. (bt w. Mission and M arket sts.), San Francisco, CA 94103. & 800/398-7555 or 415/543-8555. Fax 415/543-5885. www.hotelmilanosf.com. 108 units. $109–$299 double. Kids under 12 stay free in parent’s r oom. A dditional person $20. Rolla ways $20; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet park ing $30; oversized vehicles $35. Amenities: Restaurant; bar ; fitness c enter; concierge; room service (6am–1am); babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning; ex ecutive level rooms. In room: A/C, TV, wireless high-speed Internet access, minibar, fridge, hair dryer, iron, safe.
As the most visited tourist destination in San Francisco, Fisherman’s Wharf has plenty of family activities, and a fe w of its hotels hav e outdoor pools. B ut the lopsided ratio of tourists to locals makes for a sle w of tacky T-shirt shops and lousy r estaurants. At least it’s next to the bay, and the area’s western edge, towards Ghirardelli, is quite scenic.
EXPENSIVE
The Argonaut
495 Jefferson St. (at Hyde St.), San Francisco, CA 94109. & 866/415-0704 or 415/563-0800. Fax 415/5632800. www.argonauthotel.com. 252 units. $199–$249 double; $599–$1,000 suite. Kids under 17 stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways $20; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $39; oversized vehicles $54; hybrids $30. Pets welcome. Amenities: Restaurant; concierge; courtesy car; room service (6:15am–midnight); babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV/DVD w/movies and games, free high-speed I nternet access, minibar/fridge, coffeemaker, hair dr yer, iron, iPod dock in suites.
4 F I S H E R M A N ’S W H A R F
I’ve long wonder ed why any one would want to stay in F isherman’s Wharf. Upon seeing the Argonaut, which opened its doors in A ugust 2003, I not only stopped wondering, I wanted to check in immediately . It helps that the hotel is located on the wharf ’s more picturesque western end. The hotel building, originally built in 1907 and now property of the National Park Service, is part of The Cannery, a historic structure that once housed the world ’s largest peach canning facility . The $40 million restoration to create this attractive new hotel left the red-brick walls, Douglas fir beams, and wood-plank floors beautifully intact. The overall decor, which pokes fun at traditional nautical themes, is fresh and appealing. It extends to the sizable guest rooms and bathrooms, which are hued in bright blue, white, and silver. Room configurations include two queens or one king, and a fe w king rooms also have a pullout sofa. Bay views are an option, as are interconnecting rooms and suites. Rooms have DVD and CD play ers, and if y ou pop do wn to the lobb y for the complimentary wine hour, your teens or tweens can take advantage of the two computers with free high-speed wireless Internet access there. Too bad the Argonaut doesn’t have a pool. Then again, if it did, the other wharf hotels might go out of business. When you call, ask whether the Neptune’s Adventure package is still available. At last check, it granted a family of four a double queen room, passes to PIER 39 attractions and the H yde Street Pier, clever kids’ gifts, tickets for the cable car a mer e block away , and a full br eakfast at the hotel ’s B lue Mermaid Cho wder H ouse (p. 130), one of the fe w good family restaurants in the area.
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MODERATE
Holiday Inn F isherman’s Wharf This is one of the fe w hotels in to wn with an
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outdoor pool and patio, fun to have when the weather cooperates. It’s the best part of the property, which sits off busy North Point Street and Columbus Avenue. The entrance is welcoming, but the guest rooms, off a poorly lit hallway, are unimpressive, and some are rather bleak. B athrooms ar e better; while on the small side, they include some useful amenities such as magnifying mirr ors. The in-house restaurants are mediocre, although they do adher e to the “Kids Eat F ree” corporate pr omotion for guests under 12 dining with their parents. For the price, you can do better.
F I S H E R M A N ’S W H A R F
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1300 C olumbus Ave. (at N. P oint St.), San F rancisco, CA 94133. & 415/771-9000. Fax 415/771-7006. www.holidayinn.com. 585 units. $199–$244 double; fr om $350 suite. Kids under 18 sta y free in parent’s room. Rollaways $10; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Self-parking $39. Amenities: 2 r estaurants; coffee shop; heated outdoor pool; ex ercise room; concierge; business c enter; gift shop; r oom service (limited hours); babysitting; laundr y ser vice; dr y cleaning; laundr omat on sit e; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV, high-speed wireless Internet access, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.
Hyatt at Fisherman’s Wharf If you must stay in F isherman’s Wharf and y our kids really want a pool, the Hyatt is the best choice; it ranks a good notch above the other big hotel chains in the neighborhood. Its outdoor pool sits in a protected courtyard away from the str eet with an inviting spa, attractiv e chaises and tables, and a nearb y indoor shower. The guest r ooms and bathr ooms, already designed with families in mind, w ere fully renovated in 2006. The new color combination of rich chocolate brown set against bright white and ice blue is nicely understated. Connecting r ooms and double-doubles are available, and complimentar y rollaways are available upon r equest. In-room coffeemakers are available, but the most practical amenities may be the coin-operated washer/ dryers on every floor. The hotel’s restaurant serves all day in a spor ts-bar-like atmosphere surrounded by a total of 28 TVs, one of them measuring a whopping 126 inches. O lder kids will enjo y the game room, complete with two pool tables, shuffleboar d, and arcade machines. The staff is friendly and helpful, especially the concierge, who will provide you with discount coupons for whar f attractions. Look for r oom deals on the H yatt w ebsite, but don ’t expect attractive weekend rates. Weekends here see high occupancy. 555 N. Point St. (btw. Jones and Taylor sts.), San Francisco, CA 94133. & 800/233-1234 or 415/563-1234. Fax 415/486-4444. w ww.fishermanswharf.hyatt.com. 313 units . $168–$268 double . $400–$1,200 suit e. Kids 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways and cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $45. Amenities: Restaurant; heated outdoor pool; exercise room; Jacuzzi; sauna; concierge; courtesy car; room service (limited hours); babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, high-speed wireless Internet access, fridge (on r equest), coffeemaker, hair dr yer, iron, safe, iPod dock.
Radisson Hotel Fisherman’s Wharf If you want a waterfront view and an outdoor pool without breaking the bank, y ou’ll find them her e. The Radisson holds the distinction of being the only big chain hotel in F isherman’s Wharf actually on the water front. Jefferson Street runs in front of the hotel, but bey ond that is just the bay itself . Also, it’s sandwiched between the most popular piers on the Wharf, PIER 39 to the east and Piers 41 and 43, from where the Bay Cruises and the Alcatraz ferries depart, to the west. And it has an outdoor heated pool. Otherwise, there isn’t much charm to the place. One wonders what the architects who built structures like this in the 1960s were thinking, and the dreary color scheme desperately needs a touch-up. The concrete complex covers an entire city block, and shares retail
space with other big chains such as the Gap, Subway, Ben & Jerry’s, and the International House of Pancakes (which is the closest breakfast spot, unless you buy a cup of java from the coffee cart inelegantly occupying the lobby). At least the guest rooms and bathrooms are a decent size and, of course, y ou’ve got the bay vistas to r emind you that you are, in fact, in San Francisco.
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250 Beach St. (btw. Mason and Powell sts.), San Francisco, CA 94133. & 866/327-5199 or 415/392-6700. Fax 415/986-7853. w ww.radisson.com/sanfranciscoca_wharf. 355 units . $149–$259 double . Kids under 17 stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways $10; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Self-parking $28. Amenities: Restaurant; heated outdoor pool; exercise room; concierge; business center; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, free wireless high-speed Internet access, fridge (on request), coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.
INEXPENSIVE
Hostelling In ternational S an F rancisco, F isherman’s Wharf This option is
best for small, adventurous families. Beds here are bunked dorm-style, and bathrooms are down the hall. What sets this place apart from other hostels is its location in the middle of a national park at Fort Mason. Through the windows of this converted army barrack, trees frame a view of Alcatraz and the San Francisco Bay. Although most rooms are dorm style and hold 8 to 12 beds, a few rooms have only 3 or 4 beds. These smaller rooms have the best vistas and can be reserved for families. You’ll find small lockers in lieu of closets, so bring locks. All guests have access to a full kitchen, complimentary continental breakfast, and a common ar ea with a cozy fir eplace. An on-site cafe ser ves lunch and dinner, and the friendly volunteers at the information desk can book tours. Although it ’s a great atmosphere, with inter esting types of people fr om around the world, and y ou get fr ee
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425 N. Point St. (btw. Mason and Taylor sts.), San Francisco, CA 94133. & 800/648-4626 or 415/561-1100. Fax 415/561-1199. w ww.tuscaninn.com. 221 units . $159–$209 double; $249–$299 suit e. Kids under 18 stay free in par ent’s room. Rollaways $20; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet park ing $38; o versized vehicles $48. Pets welcome. Amenities: Restaurant; concierge; courtesy car; room service (limited hours); babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning; executive-level rooms; free local calls (30 min.). In room: A/C, TV (DVD in suit es), free wireless I nternet access, minibar/fridge (on floors 2–4 only), c offeemaker, hair dryer, iron, iPod dock.
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Tuscan Inn For years, the Tuscan Inn could proudly call itself the best hotel in Fisherman’s Wharf. Now that title will have to be passed on to the Argonaut. (Both hotels are part of the Kimpton hotel group.) Tuscan Inn rates are lower than the Argonaut’s, but the inn is located on the less picturesque end of Fisherman’s Wharf and doesn’t have bay views. One thing both hotels lack is a pool, so if you’re dead-set on one in this neighborhood, you’ll have to go with one of the national chains. What the Tuscan Inn does have are spacious guest rooms and bathrooms handsomely furnished in warm, inviting colors. R ooms are filled with amenities, including a combination honor bar/fridge, and y ou can bring F ido with y ou too. The comfortable lobby puts out hot chocolate and biscotti in the mornings, not just coffee and tea, and hosts a complimentary wine hour in the evenings. More important, the concierge here is friendly and intelligent, setting the tone for the r est of the staff. Room configurations include double-doubles, but if y ou ar e coming to the city between November and April, ask about off-season rates for king pr emieres (a king-size bed and a sofa bed) or suites, which are sometimes available at excellent rates. The hotel’s Cafe Pescatore (p. 131), specializing in reasonably-priced Italian fare, opens onto a pleasant outdoor dining area on the sidewalk.
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parking, it’s up to y ou if the plastic-co vered mattresses, shared showers, and absence of closets are worth the savings.
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Fort Mason, Building 240, San Francisco, CA 94123. & 415/771-7277. Fax 415/771-1468. www.sfhostels. com. 164 beds . Family rooms $58–$125; single beds $23–$29. R ates include c ontinental breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Cafe; kitchen; Internet access at kiosk for small fee; laundry facilities. In room: Free wireless Internet access, lockers, no phone.
San Remo Hotel Built in 1906 by Bank of Italy (later Bank of America) founder A. P. Giannini, this charming I talianate Victorian originally housed I talian immigrants, among others, made homeless after the ear thquake and fir e. These days, E uropean travelers and vacationing families on a budget ar e happy to find the S an Remo. An unabashedly oldfashioned pension, the period furnishings, bev eled glass, and Victorian detailing take y ou back to a bona fide slice of S an Francisco that’s all but disappeared. The bedrooms, which look like they w ere decorated b y someone’s grandmother, are small and quaint. R eminiscent of E uropean boarding houses, r ooms have no phones, televisions, or en suite bathrooms. Guests share one of many polished and tidy r estrooms down the hall. Families of thr ee can stay in a r oom with one queen and one twin for $90 or less. Larger families will be relegated to twin-bedded rooms for the kids and queen rooms for the adults—the r ooms don’t connect, so this hotel isn ’t ideal for families with y ounger kids. The location is within walking distance to N orth Beach, Fisherman’s Wharf, and public transportation, but this is a tough neighborhood in which to par k. Bottom line: the San Remo isn’t for ev erybody. If you expect a high lev el of ser vice and comfor t on your vacation, you’ll be better off at a mainstr eam hotel. 2237 M ason St. (near Chestnut St.), San F rancisco, CA 94133. & 800/352-7366 or 415/776-8688. F ax 415/776-2811. www.sanremohotel.com. 62 units. $75–$89 double. No rollaways or cribs. AE, DC, MC, V. Self-parking $16–$19. Amenities: Laundry facilities. In room: No phone.
THE EMBARCADERO
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4 THE EMBARCADERO Following the 1989 ear thquake and the 1990s building boom, this forgotten par t of town saw the constr uction of ne w condominiums and commer cial space. Although hotels remain scarce, the proximity to downtown, the Ferry Building, and plentiful public transportation make this waterfront neighborhood an ideal place to stay.
VERY EXPENSIVE
Hotel Vitale
Opened in 2005, the Vitale bills itself as the “ only luxury waterfront hotel” in San Francisco, offering “luxur y naturally.” What this means for y ou and yours is fabulous vie ws from many of the guest r ooms, decor in soothing ear th tones, playful photographs of natur e, and other “natural” touches such as hallway lighting fixtures that ev oke sunlight str eaming thr ough a for est canopy. Also, to be clear on the meaning of “ waterfront,” the Vitale does hav e a largely unobstr ucted, and v ery lovely, view of the S an Francisco Bay, but it ’s actually acr oss the str eet from the water ’s edge. Also, I would note that while the Vitale has plenty of opulent touches such as sandstone bathroom floors and some deep-soaking tubs (not all r ooms have bathtubs), not all the details add up to the same exclusive experience one might find at more established luxury chains such as the Ritz-Carlton or S t. R egis. The spa consists of just thr ee tr eatment rooms; the fitness center is quite petite; and while guests may use the YMCA pool for free, it is 1 block do wn the street.
8 Mission St. (at St euart St.), San Francisco, CA 94105. & 888/890-8688 or 415/278-3700. Fax 415/2783750. www.hotelvitale.com. 199 units . $329–$399 double; $379–$699 suit e. $30 f or 3rd adult in r oom; kids under 18 stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways and cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $51. Dogs w elcome, $35 f ee. Amenities: Restaurant; bar ; fitness c enter; c oncierge; c ourtesy car ; business center; room service; massage; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, dataport, free high-speed Internet access, minibar, coffeemaker (on request), hair dryer, iron, safe, CD player, iPod dock.
EXPENSIVE
Harbor Court Hotel
165 Steuart St. (btw. Mission and Howard sts.), San Francisco, CA 94105. & 866/792-6283 or 415/8821300. Fax 415/882-1313. www.harborcourthotel.com. 131 units. $139–$239 double; $499 suite. No rollaways; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC,V. Valet parking $40, $30 hybrid. Amenities: Restaurant; complimentary evening beer and wine r eception; pool; health club; c oncierge; courtesy car; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, free wireless Internet access, minibar, complimentary morning coffee and tea, hair dryer, iron, CD player, iPod dock.
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This hotel is in one of the best locations in to wn, offering lovely views of the San Francisco Bay and the Bay Bridge. You’ll be steps away fr om the Ferry Building and will have immediate access to the Embarcadero promenade for lovely waterside strolls or bike rides. M oreover, you’ll be within walking distance of the S oMa attractions, and public transportation options abound. Compared with the newer Hotel Vitale just down the street, the Harbor Court is a better value. One reason for the Harbor Court’s good rates is that, because it’s a historic building, rooms and windows are on the small side. So while view rooms look out onto the bay, you have to stand near the window to take it all in; the vie w doesn’t just permeate the r oom as it might at mor e posh hotels with massive picture windows. The hotel’s overall feel is intimate, funky, and friendly, and the color ful lobby is very inviting. Ozumo is a gr eat Japanese restaurant off the lobb y, but it’s not really a familyfriendly destination. I n fact, and her ein lies the r ub, the hotel itself was designed mor e for couples and business trav elers, as it has no double-double r ooms. You can r eserve a twin-bedded room for the kiddies, but you’ll be sleeping elsewhere because the maximum occupancy her e is two, unless y ou splurge on the two-bedr oom suite. That basically makes it suitable for couples toting a bab y or families with kids old enough to sleep in their own non-interconnected guest r oom. But the gr eat waterfront location, ex cellent rates, and full use of the YMCA next door (including its O lympic-sized pool, fitness center, and ev en a bab ysitting facility) make the H arbor Cour t wor th looking into . Check the website for packages and weekend specials.
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That’s not to suggest you shouldn’t choose the Hotel Vitale if you can get a good deal. For families, a good option could be one of the six F amily Studio suites, which feature a larger room with a king-size bed and a pullout sofa, as well as a small dining table. A few of these suites have a curtain that parents can pull across the room to separate the sleeping little ones while the adults watch a mo vie in bed. U nfortunately, these suites don ’t offer views of the water. A possibility that does feature the Vitale’s signature views is one of the sev en interconnecting room configurations, pairing a king-siz e bed r oom with a spa shower, but no tub , with a r oom that has two twin beds as w ell as a bathtub . One word of caution: The Vitale is also home to the indoor-outdoor Americano Bar, which is packed with 20-somethings most nights of the w eek. The upshot is that the Vitale is in a v ery desirable location, offers fabulous vie ws, and boasts v ery ne w, w ell-decorated rooms. But because the family suites don’t have the views and the Americano B ar is not quite a kid-friendly scene, I’d try to get a good deal on r oom prices before booking.
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Hyatt Regency San Francisco Although it’s a huge corporate hotel wher e your children are likely to get lost if they head to y our room without a detailed map, the Hyatt Regency’s terrific location at the foot of M arket Street makes up for ev ery failing. G uests can enjoy the delightful Ferry Building across the street, and several shops, restaurants, and cinemas are at hand thr oughout the E mbarcadero Center. Rooms are well equipped and very spacious, and many have bay views. Given the size of the rooms, the Hyatt Regency is the cost-efficient choice for families wanting to stay in the neighborhood. I n addition, you’ll find two restaurants, sundries, and an on-site fitness center. I remember staying here when I was a kid, and being enthralled with the indoor glass elev ators that trav el up the massive, 17-story indoor atrium, which were featured in the Mel Brooks film High Anxiety. Kids today still find those elev ators an entertainment center in and of themselv es. 5 Embarcadero Center (at Market St.), San Francisco, CA 94111. & 800/233-1234 or 415/788-1234. Fax 415/398-2567. w ww.sanfranciscoregency.hyatt.com. 803 units , including 39 suit es. $159–$350 double . $25 3rd adult in r oom. Rollaways and cribs fr ee. Kids under 18 sta y free in par ent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $56. Amenities: 2 r estaurants; bar; exercise room; concierge; business c enter; gift shop; room service (6am–midnight); babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV, high-speed Internet access, minibar, fridge (on request), coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, iPod dock in suites.
5 NOB HILL The hillcr est wher e S an Francisco’s early millionair es built their mansions is home to some of the city’s most elegant hotels. Views from guest rooms here are among the best in town, and the ar ea feels r esidential even though it ’s just a fe w blocks fr om the city center. Kids will enjo y the nearby park and playground. The downside for little ones is the steep walk uphill fr om Union Square, but you can always catch the California cable car line, which r uns close by. Room rates here are very high, but if y our timing is right you may get a good deal.
VERY EXPENSIVE
Fairmont Hotel
Children of any age will be impr essed arriving at this landmark 1907 hotel, which adorns one side of Nob Hill with its imposing facade and colorful flags. Inside, the expansive lobby’s high ceilings, marble columns, and chandeliers will leave little girls expecting Cinderella to turn up. Despite the splendor, the overall feeling is relaxed and friendly. Guest rooms in the historic building are spacious by any standard, and the closets are so large that many will comfortably fit a crib or even a rollaway! If you prefer separate showers and tubs—and a stellar vie w—select a room in the tower building. Numerous combinations of suites and r ooms, with king-size beds, queens, or double-doubles, are available. Be sure to mention that you’re traveling with kids when you call in-house reservations. The hotel has age-appropriate amenities such as milk and cookies at check-in, knapsacks, and maps, plus, 8- to 11-y ear-olds qualify to act as “doorman for a day.” Now, don’t get excited: No one’s putting your kids to wor k while you take off for S aks. But kids get to wear a hat, blow a whistle, and have a photo taken with the doorman—all at no charge. The gorgeous Laur el Court dining r oom ser ves afternoon tea with a choice of menus, including one for children. The kitschy Tonga Room provides a tropical rainstorm during happy hour (with inexpensive hors d’oeuvres). If your kids are Eloise fans, or just have excellent taste, they’ll love this hotel.
950 M ason St. (at C alifornia St.), San F rancisco, CA 94108. & 800/441-1414 or 415/772-5000. F ax. 415/772-5013. w ww.fairmont.com/sanfrancisco. 591 units . $199–$499 double; fr om $500 suit e. K ids under 17 sta y free in par ent’s room. Rollaways $30; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet park ing $50. Amenities: 2 r estaurants; outdoor terrace; bar ; concierge; business c enter; salon; 24-hr . room ser vice; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning; complimentary morning coffee and tea in lobby. In room: A/C, TV/DVD and games , fax, datapor t, high-speed I nternet access, minibar, hair dr yer, iron, safe, CD pla yer, iPod dock in suites.
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The Huntington Hotel
Mark Hopk ins In terContinental
The M ark H opkins, named after the founder of the Central P acific Railroad, opened in 1926 and r emains a S an Francisco landmark. The hotel is v ery family-friendly, providing a teddy bear and a backpack of kids’ amenities for 2- to 11-y ear-olds, as well as kids’ menus in all the r estaurants. (Ask about the “Kids in Tow” program when you make a r eservation.) With advance notice, the hotel will rent strollers or other baby paraphernalia for you. Guest rooms are classy and plush, with fine fabrics and maple furnishings. Views from the upper floors ar e unsurpassed. The big news for families is the r ecent opening of the hotel’s Club I nterContinental, located on the lobb y floor. An additional $60 a day per two adults and $15 per child (for young kids they may waive the additional $15 charge) grants you access to an enter tainment and food lounge. B ig kids will lo ve the lounge, where they can choose from more than 50 DVDs at “TV Central,” peruse a collection of teen magazines, listen to XM satellite radio on wir eless headsets, or play boar d games. The plethora of food—including baked goods and fr uits for br eakfast, lunch snacks at noon, high tea with mini sandwiches in the afternoon, and a “ sweet dreams” offering of milk and cookies in the evening—means you’ll take care of at least one daily meal for the family, making the club’s daily access charge well worth considering. You get access to the club at no additional charge if y ou stay in a suite at the standar d rate.
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1075 California St. (at Taylor St.), San F rancisco, CA 94108. & 800/227-4683 or 415/474-5400. Fax 415/ 474-6227. www.huntingtonhotel.com. 135 units . From $315 double; fr om $540 suit e. Kids 5 and under stay free in par ent’s room. Rollaways $30; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $39. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool (16 and over only); spa/exercise room; concierge; courtesy car; room service (6am– 11:30pm); massage; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV/DVD w/movies, fax, wireless high-speed Internet access, kitchenettes available, hair dryer, safe, CD player (on request), iPod dock.
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Owned and operated for mor e than 80 y ears by a local family, the Huntington Hotel keeps a lower profile than the neighboring Nob Hill hotels, but is equally upscale. For those traveling with young children, there are a few reasons to consider this hotel. The location is gr eat: Huntington Park across the str eet has a nice playground for under-8s, which may offer a w ell-deserved break for a kid who has followed parents around the sights all day. Grace Cathedral, kitty-corner to the hotel, is also a serene place to walk and stretch your legs, and the cable car stop is next door. Moreover, the building was originally conceiv ed as an apar tment bloc, so many of the r ooms are very spacious and can easily fit a crib . The hotel’s most family-friendly feature may be the seven suites that have kitchenettes, a rarity in upscale hotels. I n addition to the suites, connecting king and double-double rooms are also an option. Although elegant, the decor is a bit heavy and in need of updating. The Luxury and H untington rooms on the upper floors hav e great views, but the Deluxe and Superior rooms on the lower floors are larger. The hotel’s exquisitely beautiful spa, which unfor tunately is not open to guests under 16, is one of the nicest in S an Francisco and offers divine tr eatments of ev ery sort. The Big Four restaurant, dark and clubby, exudes more than a hint of old S an Francisco.
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The 19th-floor Top of the M ark r estaurant/bar offers a S unday br unch and keeps coloring books on hand for small guests who like to keep busy. It’s been a landmark since 1939, and many non-guests make their way up to gawk at the vie w from the panoramic windows. With a prix-fixe gourmet dinner and dancing on w eekend evenings to a liv e orchestra, y ou needn ’t stray far fr om the kiddies to enjo y a liv ely night out on the town. Number One Nob H ill (at C alifornia and M ason sts .), San F rancisco, CA 94108. & 800/662-6455 or 415/392-3434. F ax 415/421-3302. w ww.markhopkins.net. 380 units , including 39 suit es. $399–$499 double; $650–$4,250 suit e. Kids under 18 sta y free in par ent’s room. Rollaways $30; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet park ing $45. Amenities: Restaurant; bar ; exercise room; concierge; business c enter; 24-hr. room service; massage (also in-r oom); babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning; c oncierge-level rooms; town car (first- come, first-ser ved); doctor upon r equest. In room: A/C, TV, datapor t, high-speed Internet access, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.
Ritz-Carlton
Unlike the Four Seasons and St. Regis, the oh-so-posh decor here is quite traditional. The secret for getting the most out of this hotel is to communicate your ev ery wish to r eservations, letting them kno w whether y ou’re trav eling with the nanny, celebrating a special occasion, or accompanied by a child who just brought home a perfect report card. These folks are looking for a r eason to spoil you. If your little boy is into action figures, let the concierges know and they’ll gladly oblige with a super-hero welcome gift. Pets under 10 pounds are welcome and also entitled to customized amenities, such as doggie beds and bo wls. Rooms range from deluxe doubles to executive suites, which are larger than most onebedroom apar tments in S an Francisco. A delux e with two double beds will still hav e plenty of room for a crib or rollaway, but if you’re sharing with your kids, ask for one of the Stockton Street rooms, which are a bit larger. A handful of connecting rooms are also available. An extra $100 per night will grant you access to the Club Lounge, which comes with a dedicated concierge and a constant parade of food, fr om an ample br eakfast to evening hors d’oeuvres with fruit, snacks, and drinks. Although more expensive than the Mark Hopkins lounge, it may still be a worthwhile investment. Visits during the holidays are especially fun for kids—the Ritz organiz es a kids’ Halloween tea in October, a teddy bear tea in D ecember, and other annual ev ents. During non-holiday times of y ear, kids can participate in a scavenger hunt throughout the hotel, with prizes awarded at the front desk.
600 St ockton St. (at C alifornia St.), San F rancisco, CA 94108. & 800/241-3333 or 415/296-7465. F ax 415/291-0288. www.ritzcarlton.com/hotels/san_francisco. 336 units. From $439 double; from $529 suite. Additional person $30. Rollaways and cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $62. Pets under 10 lb. welcome. Amenities: 2 r estaurants; 2 bars; indoor pool; health club; c oncierge; courtesy car; business center; 24-hr. room service; massage; laundry service; dry cleaning; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV/DVD w/mo vies and games , datapor t, wir eless high-speed I nternet ac cess, minibar, fridge , c offeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe, CD player, iPod dock.
MODERATE
Nob Hill Inn Finds
One of the only moderately priced accommodations on Nob Hill is also an excellent option for families. B uilt more than a hundred years ago as a priv ate home, the 21-unit inn has been r efurbished in Victorian-era antiques, r eproduction artwork, top-quality fabrics and a charming antique elev ator. “Antiques” and little children may not seem to go together, but what the Nob Hill has going for it ar e a number of suites with one or two bedr ooms and a sofa sleeper in the living r oom. Most of these suites have a kitchenette complete with a cooking range, sink, r efrigerator, microwave
oven, coffeemaker, and plates and utensils. The two-bedroom suites also have two bathrooms. The Huntington suite, complete with two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a kitchenette and a dining room, sleeps six. At $275 per day, that’s a money-saving deal. Your kids might also get a kick out of the claw-foot tubs and faux antique telephones; par ents will appreciate the complimentar y breakfast and afternoon tea and sherr y. The only do wnsides are smallish rooms and the inn’s location on a busy street (Pine Street is an oft-used one-way thoroughfare from downtown to residential neighborhoods, so cars whiz b y in the afternoons). B ut it’s not enough to deter the many families who come for the inn ’s kitchenette suites. If you want one of them, y ou should reserve it well in advance.
6 T H E M A R I N A & CO W H O L LO W These largely residential neighborhoods are teeming with restaurants, cafes, and boutique shops. The high concentration of families makes for gr eat local playgr ounds, and the lovely Marina Green, with its view of the Golden Gate Bridge, is an attraction on its own. The downside is that most hotels here are on Lombard Street, a busy thoroughfare lined with chain restaurants and gas stations.
MODERATE
Cow Hollow Motor Inn & Suites
2190 Lombard St. (at St einer St.), San F rancisco, CA 94123. & 415/921-5800. Fax 415/922-8515. w ww. cowhollowmotorinn.com. 129 units. $96–$145 double; $235–$285 suit e. Kids under 12 sta y free in parent’s room. Additional person $10. Rollaways $10; cribs free. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking (1 car per room). In room: A/C, TV (DVD for $15/night), free wireless high-speed Internet access in suites, fridge (on request, $5 extra), coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron (on request).
Hotel Del S ol
Once upon a time, the D el Sol was a modest motel with the good fortune to be located in Cow Hollow, away from noisy Lombard Street. Then the clever hospitality company, Joie de Vivre, came along. Many gallons of bright yellow, green, and blue paint later, a star was born. She’s even got the swimming pool, hammocks, and palm trees to pr ove it. M ost of the all-nonsmoking guest r ooms and suites surr ound a tiled,
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Finds The motel side of this popular , nonsmoking establishment has spacious guest r ooms in mostly king-siz e bed and doubledouble combinations. ( There ar e thr ee double/queen r ooms.) All hav e good-siz ed bathrooms with plenty of counter space. The decor is plain, but clean and relatively new. With fr ee indoor par king to boot, it ’s a gr eat deal. J ust make sur e y our r oom doesn’t overlook Lombard Street, as even the double-paned windo ws don’t block out the noise. Just in case, the front desk provides free earplugs. The real treasures are the 12 suites located in the adjacent building on Chestnut Street. These are brightly decorated one- or two-bedroom apartments that are true homes-awayfrom-home, with living r ooms, fully equipped kitchens, and dining r ooms with wood flooring. The two-bedr oom suites hav e two bathr ooms, and one of the one-bedr oom rentals contains two double beds. Coin-operated washers and dr yers are on ev ery floor. The trick is to reserve far in advance—up to a year for visits over holidays. The Inn also discounts the suites an extra $25 per day for stays longer than 5 days.
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1000 Pine St. (at Taylor St.), San Francisco, CA 94123. & 415/673-6080. Fax 415/673-6098. www.nobhill inn.com. 21 units. $125–$195 double; $245–$275 suite. Rates include continental breakfast. No rollaways; cribs free. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking $30–$35/day in nearby garage. Amenities: Concierge. In room: TV, wireless Internet access, kitchenette in some, hair dryer, iron.
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color-washed interior courtyard that triples as a parking complex, pool area, and complimentary breakfast bar. Double-doubles are fine for small families, but if y ou can, take advantage of the onebedroom suites with pullout sofas in the living r ooms, or the sole “F amily Suite” complete with bunk beds, small-scale furnitur e, toys, and boar d games. The three so-called kitchenette units are actually bedrooms with a galley containing a counter , sink, fridge, and microwave (no sto ve). This was once an inexpensiv e 1960s motel, and the squar e footage hasn’t changed along with the new paint. Rooms are smallish, bathrooms miniscule, ceilings lo w, and walls thin. I f y ou like the fr ee par king, swimming pool, and Marina location, this place is for y ou. If you want lots of space, think again. 3100 Webster St. (at Gr eenwich St.), San F rancisco, CA 94123. & 877/433-5765 or 415/921-5520. F ax 415/931-4137. w ww.thehoteldelsol.com. 57 units . $129–$189 double; $189–$249 suit e. R ates include continental breakfast. Kids under 12 stay free in parent’s room. Futon, rollaway, or crib $10. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Heated outdoor pool; passes to nearby health club ($15); laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV/DVD/VCR, dataport, free wireless Internet access, fridge (on request, $10), coffeemaker (on request), hair dryer, iron/ironing board, safe, CD player or iPod dock in all rooms.
INEXPENSIVE
The Marina Inn
Value This inexpensive but tidy inn is most suitable for small families with one or possibly two y oung children. All guest rooms have queen-size beds, and a few have an additional twin bed. Depending on floor space, the very accommodating staff can pr ovide a r ollaway, crib, or foam mattr ess. Larger families would r equire taking multiple rooms, but you’ll still spend very little for comfortable accommodations that include a continental breakfast of coffee, juice, pastries, and toasted bagels in a pleasant breakfast nook. The pine beds, armoir es, and tables in ev ery guest r oom are simple and lo vely. I nside r ooms obtain natural light fr om light w ells but ar e v ery quiet; the bright outside r ooms pick up noise fr om ev er-busy Lombar d S treet. M oscone P layground, a popular destination for young families, is just 2 blocks away. Also close by are Chestnut Street, a gr eat walking str eet with some of my fav orite family-friendly r estaurants, and the famously crooked part of Lombard Street. Compared to the generic motels along Lombard, the M arina Inn is a Victorian oasis in a safer section of the neighborhood.
3110 Oc tavia St. (at L ombard St.), San F rancisco, CA 94123. & 800/274-1420 or 415/928-1000. F ax 415/928-5909. w ww.marinainn.com. 40 units . $65–$135 double . R ates include c ontinental br eakfast. Kids under 5 stay free in parent’s room. Additional guests $10. Rollaways and cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: C oncierge; business c enter. In r oom: TV, fr ee wir eless I nternet ac cess, hair dr yer (on request), iron (on request).
Marina Motel The flower-bedecked Marina Motel blends into the surr ounding stucco and concrete structures, so be on the lookout for the cour tyard entrance between Broderick and D ivisadero streets. This is a good option if y ou have a car , because the parking is off str eet in little garages and it ’s free. The guest rooms, all of which face the courtyard, ar e easily the most charming in the neighborhood. They’ve r ecently been redecorated with pine furniture, Italian tiles in the bathrooms, and attractive quilts, and every room has a refrigerator and coffeemaker. In addition to double-doubles and family suites (two bedr ooms with a shar ed bathroom), there are two units with fully stocked kitchens. Management’s preference is to r ent the kitchen units b y the w eek, so discuss your options with the reservations desk if you’ll be staying for a shor ter period. Chestnut Street shopping and dining is a shor t walk away . The Presidio’s Lombard Gate entrance is also within walking distance, and y ou can take adv antage of the fr ee
Presidio shuttle buses to get ar ound inside. The 30-Stockton Muni bus fr om Chestnut Street brings Marina visitors through North Beach, Chinatown, and Union Square. You may spend more time traveling to other neighborhoods, but at the M arina Motel you’ll spend a lot less on accommodations.
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2576 Lombard St. (bt w. Broderick and Divisader o sts.), San F rancisco, CA 94123. & 800/346-6118 or 415/921-9406. Fax 415/921-0364. w ww.marinamotel.com. 39 units. $95–$155 double; $119–$219 suit e. Kitchens available for stays of 5 nights or mor e ($10 ex tra). Additional person $10. Rolla ways and cribs $10. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Dogs welcome in some rooms ($10 per night). In room: TV, free wireless Internet access, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
Close to the tony Pacific Heights neighborhood, quiet Japantown is home to two hotels that offer more for your money than you’ll find in more highly touristed areas. You won’t be in the center of the action, but multiple bus lines can get y ou there quickly. Plus, Japantown’s Asian shops and r estaurants will add an extra sense of adv enture to y our family vacation.
MODERATE
Kabuki Hotel
1625 Post St. (at Laguna St.), San F rancisco, CA 94115. & 800/533-4567 or 415/922-3200. Fax 415/6145498. www.jdvhotels.com/kabuki. 218 units, 15 suites. $129–$289 double; $209–$329 suit e. Kids under 17 stay free in parent’s room. Rollaways $15; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $35/day, selfparking $15/night. Amenities: Restaurant; c oncierge; business c enter; fitness c enter; r oom ser vice (6:30am–11pm), laundry service; dry cleaning; club-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, free wireless high-speed Internet access, fridge, tea kettle, hair dryer, iron, safe, iPod dock.
INEXPENSIVE
Hotel Tomo Value
Here’s another gr eat J apantown deal. A t H otel Tomo, a B est Western Hotel/Joie de Vivre hotel, you can get a bright, newly furnished room with two queen-size beds for not much more than $100 ($109 and up, depending on occupancy). Use your AAA car d and get a fur ther discount. The added bonus: R ooms all hav e one wall whimsically decorated in Japanese pop art style. The rest of the room decor is light and modern, with lemon-y ellow bed co vers, blond-wood furnitur e, and other pop ar t
4 J A PA N TO W N
Value Upon arrival, your kids will get some immediate cr osscultural edification, with a complimentar y Japanese tea ser vice brought to y our room. The hotel’s Asian-accented guest rooms were all redone in 2007 and include top-quality linens, updated marble and tile bathr ooms, the latest electr onics (flatscreen TVs, iPod docking stations, free high-speed wireless Internet, and so on), and Asian tea kettles. The intended mood her e is ser ene. I f tranquillity is har d to achiev e with y our little ones around, at check-in r equest a r oom with a J apanese-style deep-soaking tub . Then send one parent to visit J apantown’s bookstores and gift shops with the kids while the other one of you indulges in a long, soothing bath. Your children will enjoy the extra Japanese feel of one of the three family suites. There, a shoji screen can be closed to separate the main ar ea with king-siz e bed fr om another section just for the children with two futons resting on tatami mats. At bedtime, the kids can pretend they’re in Japan. (Unfortunately, family suites do not have the luscious Japanese tubs.) When it’s time to get back to S an Francisco sightseeing, y ou’ll have 10 bus lines within a 4-block radius to get y ou wherever you need to go.
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100 touches that make this a definite cut above the usual, utilitarian Best Western. Better yet, rooms come with two queen-siz e beds, as opposed to the cramped double-double configurations more common in the moderately priced hotels downtown. Four sets of rooms interconnect; two of these connect a room with a king-size bed with a room that has two queen-size beds. Depending on your kids’ interests, the most attractive option of all may be of the “ gaming suites,” which contain the latest S ony P layStation, Wii, bean bag chairs, and a 6-foot LCD projection screen. If your kids are teens, let them play a couple rounds of video games while y ou shop for lo vely Japanese ceramics or a ne w kimono around the corner in the Japantown shops. Some rooms on higher floors have neighborhood views.
L AU R E L H E I G H T S
4
1800 Sutt er St. (at Buchanan St.), San F rancisco, CA 94115. & 800/738-7477 or 415/921-4000. F ax 415/563-1278. www.jdvhotels.com/tomo. 125 units. $109–$189 double; fr om $550 suite. Kids under 17 stay free in par ent’s room. Rollaway $10; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Self-parking for $20/day or on overflow lot a f ew blocks a way for $15/day. No pets . Amenities: Restaurant; c oncierge; fitness c enter; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/movies and games, dataport, wireless Internet access, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, iPod dock.
8 L AU R E L H E I G H T S This solidly residential neighborhood is a good choice for young families or anyone who wants r espite fr om the urban jungle. S acramento S treet shopping has something for everyone, kids included, and Laur el Village, almost an old-fashioned strip mall, draws crowds of locals.
MODERATE
The Laurel Inn
Value One of the fe w hotels in the neighborhood, the Laur el Inn is terrific and a good v alue. It’s ideal for large families, since 18 units hav e kitchenettes. D on’t be dismay ed b y the motor lodge exterior . I nside, it ’s polished and sleek. Configured with either two double beds or a king-siz e bed and a sofa bed, many of the warm and inviting guest r ooms interconnect as well. All the rooms are spacious enough to accommodate a crib , and some hav e panoramic city vie ws. For $10 per day, you can make use of the J ewish Community Center ’s health club acr oss the str eet; you’ll find a state-of-the-art fitness facility, large indoor pools, and plush locker r ooms. The hotel caters to kids with cookies and lemonade in the afternoons, and a complimentary continental breakfast with fresh juices and an array of muffins and pastries helps jump-start the mornings. Moreover, the neighborhood is safe and quiet. A t night, enjoy in-room entertainment with help from the hotel’s CD and movie lending library. Despite the location away fr om the tourist z one, convenient bus lines ar e just outside the fr ont door, including the 3-Jackson to Union Square and the 1-California to Chinato wn and the financial district.
444 Presidio Ave. (at C alifornia St.), San F rancisco, CA 94115. & 800/552-8735 or 415/567-8467. F ax 415/928-1866. www.thelaurelinn.com. 49 units. $189–$219 double. Rates include continental breakfast. Kids under 12 sta y free in parent’s room. Additional guests $10. Rolla ways $10; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Pets welcome w/some r estrictions; call f or details. Amenities: Nearby health club access ($10); laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: TV/DVD, dataport, wireless Internet access, hair dryer, iron, CD player.
Family-Friendly Dining San F rancisco is a f ood-lover’s
city. Even before renowned Bay Area chef Alice Waters gave birth to California cuisine, S an Francisco took adv antage of its access to fresh seafood, local produce, and ethnic influences to foster a thriving dining scene. To the north, east, and south are dozens of small family farms, many organic, which supply city r estaurants. In addition, the melting pot of immigrants has added serious depth to the epicur ean offerings. Great Mexican food abounds in the Mission, and you’ll find Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese, and Thai r estaurants everywhere. Although North Beach has its share of I talian r estaurants, y ou can also find S panish, I ndian, and G reek cuisine very close by. With so many tantalizing options, it would be a shame to stick to pizza simply because y ou hav e the kids in to w— although S an F rancisco does hav e some excellent pizzerias, which are listed in this chapter. E xperiencing the city ’s fabulous food needn ’t deplete y our wallet; ethnic restaurants ar e often inexpensiv e, and many moderately priced r estaurants ar e home to capable, aspiring y oung chefs. Likewise, many of the city ’s best chefs, whose original r estaurants may be fairly grown-up, also hav e casual eateries wher e they can sho wcase their talent at mor e affordable prices. Although tr ying S an Francisco’s v aried cuisine may mean y ou’ll be taking y oung kids out of their culinar y comfor t z one, and that you’ll be eating in restaurants not populated ex clusively b y families, y ou’ll soon disco ver that S an F ranciscans ar e a friendly bunch and that most chefs will be happy to accommodate tiny palates should
the need arise. M y husband and I hav e dragged our kids to any number of local restaurants and found that, b y follo wing the guidelines I list below (see the “Dining Out in P eace” bo x), w e’ve been able to enjoy many wonderful dinners and, at the same time, introduce our little ones to new and interesting foods. With that spirit of disco very in mind, I’ve listed a few dining options in this chapter that ar e not specifically designed for families but to which kids will certainly feel welcome. I’ve also included two restaurants for a night you may have a babysitter. Note that I’ ve listed sev eral restaurants outside the main tourist z ones of U nion Square, F isherman’s Wharf, and N orth Beach. In most cases, the best food at the best prices is served in places like the Mission, the Richmond D istrict, or R ussian Hill—residential neighborhoods wher e restaurants may hav e a mor e w elcoming attitude and where local residents are more likely to bring their kids. That said, y ou never know when hunger will strike—so r est assur ed I’ve listed plenty of options near the top tourist sights as w ell. F inally, while I’ ve tried to list varied cuisine, sometimes everyone just needs to take a br eak from the sightseeing frenzy, sit, and find something on the menu the kids will like. F or those moments, I’ve included plenty of r estaurants that ar e tailor-made for a simple, messy family meal. A NO TE ABOUT PRICES The restaurants in the reviews that follow are categorized as Very E xpensive, E xpensive, Moderate, and I nexpensive, based on an approximation of what a family of four would spend for nonalcoholic drinks and
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Tips
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Dining Out in Peace
• Set the gr ound rules . Bef ore ent ering a r estaurant, r emind k ids that y ou are going t o a special plac e and that a f ew key rules apply , such as inside voices and good manners . • Bring entertainment. Crayons, markers, paper, stickers, and so on, will give your children something to do while a waiting their food. If the k ids are old enough, bring post cards for them t o writ e. • Try word games. “I Spy” is a good one . Another w ord game in volves one person naming something in a cat egory, such as f ood. The nex t person names a w ord in the same cat egory that star ts with the last lett er of the previous word (for example, orange, eggplant, tomato, onion . . .). • Remember the v alue of c onversation. Talk with y our k ids about what you did during the da y or what y ou ha ve planned f or the nex t one . That will help pass the time and enc ourage restaurant-appropriate behavior. • Decide who ’s “on duty .” Decide ahead of time which adult will ha ve t o interrupt his or her meal , should a child ac t up. Take turns at each meal . • Use time -outs. I f y our normally polit e child ac ts up , immediat ely and quietly take him or her outside . This will a void embarrassment, and will be a lesson t o the child . You shouldn’t have to do this mor e than a f ew times before your child gets the message . • Make exceptions. Your child ma y normally drink milk with dinner . Permit him or her t o ha ve a Shirley Temple (7Up and g renadine with a cherr y). This will make dinner out seem special . • Use r ewards and briber y. Tell k ids that if they beha ve w ell and eat their dinner, they ’ll get a bo wl of vanilla ic e cream for desser t. • Be fle xible. I f the k ids ar e tir ed, sk ip the appetiz ers or or der f ood that is quick to prepare. If they ’ve reached their limit, ha ve one par ent take them outside to stretch their legs or look f or a desser t spot while the other parent pays the bill . • Slow do wn. Bef ore dinner, take them back t o the hot el f or a nap t o r est up or t o a pla yground to let loose some pent-up ener gy. • Eat early . I f y ou plan t o eat at a mor e elegant r estaurant or if it ’s the weekend, arriv e early , bef ore the r estaurant gets full . (Plan a post- dinner walk or ac tivity, such as seeing the sea lions at F isherman’s Wharf in summer or the Union S quare Christmas tr ee in wint er.) • Do lunch. Some of the cit y’s finer r estaurants are open f or lunch. Why not make lunch y our special meal of the da y? The ambienc e ma y be mor e kid-friendly, the pric es lower, and y our children bett er behaved. Then you can all ha ve pizza f or dinner, and y ou won’t feel you’ve missed out. • Relax. San Franciscans are very friendly, and most restaurants are delighted to have children c ome dine with them.
discretion for lesser quality ser vice. J ust 103 please r emember that in the U.S. most servers’ wages depend on tips. CHAINS & FAST FOOD You don’t find a lot of national chains or ev en fast-food restaurants in any but the most touristed neighborhoods, such as Union Square and Fisherman’s Wharf. F or the most par t you’ll find S an Franciscans, with or without kids, pr efer chef-driv en r estaurants with unique identities. As for fast food, you can’t do much better than a burrito, but I do understand that kids crav e pizzas or burgers once in a while. I nstead of pointing y ou to the near est M cDonald’s, however, I hav e done my best to offer alternatives including locally owned diners and regional chains of I talian restaurants, noodle bars, and pizza parlors.
1 R E S TAU R A N T S BY C U I S I N E AFTERNOON TEA
AMERICAN
Blue Front Cafe (The Haight, $, p. 142) Blue Mermaid Chowder House (Fisherman’s Wharf, $$, p. 130) Chow (The Castro/Noe Valley, $, p. 148) Cliff House Bistro (The Richmond/ Sunset, $$$, p. 149) Crepevine (Japantown/Pacific Heights/ Presidio Heights, $, p. 138) Dolores Park Cafe (Mission, $, p. 146) Dottie’s True Blue Cafe (Union Sq./ Financial District, $, p. 111)
Ella’s (Japantown/Pacific Heights/ Presidio Heights, $, p. 139) Fog City Diner (The Embarcadero/ South Beach, $$, p. 123) Franciscan (Fisherman’s Wharf, $$$, p. 130) The Grove (Marina/Cow Hollow/ Presidio National Park, Japantown/ Pacific Heights/Presidio Heights, $, p. 136) McCormick & Kuleto’s (Fisherman’s Wharf, $$$, p. 130) Park Chalet (The Richmond/Sunset, $$, p. 150) Park Chow (The Richmond/Sunset, $, p. 152) Presidio Social Club (Marina/Cow Hollow/Presidio National Park, $$$, p. 134) Rainforest Cafe (Fisherman’s Wharf, $$$, p. 130)
Key to Abbreviations: $$$$ = Very Expensive $$$ = Expensive $$ = Moderate $ = Inexpensive
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Laurel Court (Nob Hill, $$$, p. 118) Lovejoy’s Tea Room (The Castro/Noe Valley, $$, p. 148) Palace Hotel (SoMa, $$$, p. 112)
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four main courses. I f this family would have to pay $150 or mor e for a meal, I consider that r estaurant Very Expensive; from $100 to $150 Expensive; betw een $60 and $100, Moderate; under $60, Inexpensive. I’ve included cafes, pizzerias, and casual, or der-at-the-counter places under the I nexpensive header, and r estaurants that hav e positioned themselv es as combining high-quality ingr edients and value in the M oderate column. The Expensive category includes afternoon tea in hotels, usually costly , but delightful if you like that sort of thing. Very Expensive restaurants ar e for the ev enings y ou’ve hired a bab ysitter, unless y ou’re r earing a future J ulia Child or J acques P epin and wish to inspir e her or him. Tax in S an Francisco is 8.5%. Tip your server 15% to 20% for good to great service, and at your
104
Sears Fine Food (Union Sq./Financial District, $, p. 111) Tadich Grill (Union Sq./Financial District, $$, p. 111) Taylor’s Refresher (Embarcadero/ South Beach, $, p. 125) (SoMa, $$$, Town Hall p. 113)
ASIAN
Betelnut (Marina/Cow Hollow/Presidio National Park, $$, p. 135)
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BAKERY
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5
Beard Papa’s (SoMa, $, p. 117) Boulange de Polk (Russian Hill, $, p. 140) Citizen Cake (Civic Center/Hayes Valley, $$, p. 133) Tartine (Mission, $, p. 148)
BARBECUE
Memphis Minnie’s (The Haight, $, p. 144)
BELGIAN FRIES
Frjtz (Civic Center/Hayes Valley, Mission, $, p. 133)
BREAKFAST/BRUNCH
Blue Front Cafe (The Haight, $, p. 142) Crossroads Café (The Embarcadero/South Beach, $, p. 125) Dolores Park Cafe (Mission, $, p. 146) Dottie’s True Blue Cafe (Union Sq./ Financial District, $, p. 111) Ella’s (Japantown/Pacific Heights/ Presidio Heights, $, p. 139) The Grove (Marina/Cow Hollow/ Presidio National Park, Japantown/ Pacific Heights/Presidio Heights, $, p. 136) Sears Fine Food (Union Sq./Financial District, $, p. 111) Town’s End (Embarcadero/South Beach, $$, p. 123)
BURMESE
Burma Superstar (The Richmond/ Sunset, $, p. 151)
CALIFORNIA
Citizen Cake (Civic Center/Hayes Valley, $$, p. 133) Crossroads Café (The Embarcadero/South Beach, $, p. 125) de Young Cafe (The Richmond/ Sunset, $, p. 151) (The Mission, Foreign Cinema $$$, p. 144) Hayes Street Grill (Civic Center/ Hayes Valley, $$$, p. 132) Restaurant LuLu (SoMa, $$$, p. 112) Sellers Markets (Union Sq./Financial District, $, p. 112) Town’s End (Embarcadero/South Beach, $$, p. 123) Zuni Cafe (Civic Center/Hayes Valley, $$$, p. 132)
CHINESE
Dragon Well (Marina/Cow Hollow/ Presidio National Park, $, p. 136) Great Eastern Restaurant (Chinatown, $$, p. 118) Hunan Home’s Restaurant (Chinatown, $, p. 121) Lichee Garden (Chinatown, $, p. 121) R&G Lounge (Chinatown, $, p. 120)
CHINESE/DIM SUM
Ton Kiang (The Richmond/Sunset, $, p. 152) (Embarcadero/South Yank Sing Beach, $$, p. 124)
CREPES
Crepe Express (The Haight, $, p. 142) Crepevine (Japantown/Pacific Heights/ Presidio Heights, $, p. 138) Frjtz (Civic Center/Hayes Valley, Mission, $, p. 133)
San Francisco Crepe Cart (Fisherman’s Wharf, $, p. 132) Ti Couz (Mission, $, p. 148)
FRENCH
Fleur de Lys (Union Sq./Financial District, $$$$, p. 107) Grand Cafe (Union Sq./Financial District, $$$, p. 107) La Terrasse (Marina/Cow Hollow/ Presidio National Park, $$, p. 135)
GREEK
Kokkari Estiatorio (Embarcadero/South Beach $$$, p. 121)
GRILL
(North Beach, $, p. 127)
HAMBURGERS
Burger Joint (The Haight, The Mission, $, p. 142) In-N-Out Burger (Fisherman’s Wharf, $, p. 131) Mel’s Drive-in (Marina/Cow Hollow/ Presidio National Park, SoMa, The Richmond/Sunset, $, p. 136) Taylor’s Refresher (Embarcadero/ South Beach, $, p. 125)
Ben & Jerry’s (The Haight, $, p. 142) Gelato Classico (North Beach, $, p. 127) Ghirardelli Ice Cream and Chocolate Shop (Fisherman’s Wharf, $, p. 131) Mitchell’s Ice Cream (The Mission, $, p. 147) Norman’s Ice Cream & Freezes (Fisherman’s Wharf, $, p. 131) Swensen’s Creamery (Russian Hill, $, p. 140) Tango Gelato (Japantown/Pacific Heights/Presidio Heights, $, p. 139)
INDIAN/PAKISTANI
Indian Oven (The Haight, $$, p. 141) Naan-N-Curry (North Beach, $, p. 129)
JAPANESE
Isobune (Japantown/Pacific Heights/ Presidio Heights, $$, p. 138) Juban Yakiniku House (Japantown/ Pacific Heights/Presidio Heights, $$, p. 138) Sanraku (Union Sq./Financial District, $$, p. 108)
MEDITERRANEAN
Blue Front Cafe (The Haight, $, p. 142) (The Mission, Foreign Cinema $$$, p. 144) Zuni Cafe (Civic Center/Hayes Valley, $$$, p. 132)
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ICE CREAM
A16 (Marina/Cow Hollow/Presidio National Park, $$, p. 134) (Russian Hill, Antica Trattoria $$$, p. 140) Cafe Pescatore (Fisherman’s Wharf, $$, p. 131) (The Mission, $$$, Delfina p. 144) Joe DiMaggio’s Italian Chophouse (North Beach, $$$, p. 126) L’Osteria del Forno (North Beach, $$, p. 127) Mario’s Bohemian Cigar Store (North Beach, $, p. 129) Pasta Pomodoro (Marina/Cow Hollow/Presidio National Park, North Beach, Japantown/Pacific Heights/ Presidio Heights, The Castro/Noe Valley, The Richmond/Sunset, $, p. 137) Pazzia (SoMa, $$, p. 113) Puccini & Pinetti (Union Sq./Financial District, $$, p. 108) Rose Pistola (North Beach, $$$, p. 126) Trattoria Contadina (North Beach, $$, p. 127)
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Il Pollaio
ITALIAN
106
MEXICAN
La Corneta Taqueria (The Mission, $, p. 147) Mamacita (Marina/Cow Hollow/ Presidio National Park, $$, p. 135) Mijita (Embarcadero/South Beach, $, p. 125) Pancho Villa Taqueria (The Mission, $, p. 147)
MOROCCAN
Aziza (The Richmond/Sunset, $$, p. 149)
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PIZZA
R E S TAU R A N T S BY C U I S I N E
5
Amici’s East Coast Pizzeria (Embarcadero/South Beach, Marina/Cow Hollow/Presidio National Park, $, p. 124) (Marina/Cow Hollow/PresiA16 dio National Park, $$, p. 134) Blondie’s Pizza (Union Sq./Financial District, $, p. 111) Giorgio’s Pizzeria (The Richmond/ Sunset, $, p. 151) (Japantown/ Pizzeria Delfina Pacific Heights/Presidio Heights, The Mission, $$, p. 146) Pizzetta 211 (The Richmond/ Sunset, $$, p. 150) ZA Pizza (Russian Hill, $, p. 141)
SANDWICHES
Arlequin (Civic Center/Hayes Valley, $, p. 133) ’wichcraft (SoMa, $, p. 117)
SEAFOOD
Blue Mermaid Chowder House (Fisherman’s Wharf, $$, p. 130) Franciscan (Fisherman’s Wharf, $$$, p. 130) Hayes Street Grill (Civic Center/ Hayes Valley, $$$, p. 132)
McCormick & Kuleto’s (Fisherman’s Wharf, $$$, p. 130) Tadich Grill (Union Sq./Financial District, $$, p. 111)
SPANISH/TAPAS
Bocadillos (Embarcadero/South Beach, $$, p. 123)
SUSHI
Isobune (Japantown/Pacific Heights/ Presidio Heights, $$, p. 138) Sanraku (Union Sq./Financial District, $$, p. 108)
THAI
Koh Samui & The Monkey (SoMa, $, p. 117) (Marina/ Osha Thai Restaurant Cow Hollow/Presidio National Park, SoMa, Embarcadero/South Beach, The Mission, $, p. 137) 2001 Thai Stick (Japantown/Pacific Heights/Presidio Heights, $, p. 139)
TURKISH
Troya (The Richmond/Sunset, $, p. 152)
VEGAN
Café Gratitude (The Richmond/Sunset, The Mission, $$, p. 150) Millennium (Union Sq./Financial District, $$$, p. 108)
VEGETARIAN
Greens (Marina/Cow Hollow/ Presidio National Park, $$$, p. 133)
VIETNAMESE
Ana Mandara (Fisherman’s Wharf, $$$, p. 129) (The EmbarcaSlanted Door dero/South Beach, $$$, p. 122)
2 UNION SQUARE/THE FINANCIAL DISTRIC T
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VERY EXPENSIVE
Fleur de Lys
777 Sutter St. (btw. Jones and Taylor sts). & 415/673-7779. www.fleurdelyssf.com. Reservations essential. 3- course menu $72, 4- course $82, 5- course $95, v egetarian $72. M on–Thurs 6–9:30pm; F ri 5:30– 10pm; Sat 5–10:00. Closed Sun. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Muni: No. 2-Clement, no. 3-Jackson, no. 4-Sutter, or no. 27-Bryant to Jones St.
and style: from the soaring ceilings, massiv e columns, and wall-siz ed murals that depict turn-of-the-20th-century Paris to the fine food, this brasserie is abuzz with energy and activity. Located next to the H otel M onaco and close to the theaters ar ound U nion Square, tourists and locals gravitate to the stunning dining r oom for California-inspired French dishes prepared in an open kitchen with a theatrical flair. Typically French appetizers include foie gras or escargot, while entrees may include a seafood stew bouillabaisse, or boeuf bourguignon. The Grand Cafe’s coveted banana cr eam pie continues to grace the menu, even as chefs come and go . While the food is tasty, it’s not always as majestic as the room that houses it. For a taste of grandeur without the grand prices, check out the adjacent, more casual Petite Cafe for grilled dishes such as hangar steak or salmon, steamed shellfish, pizzas from a wood-fired oven, salads, sandwiches, and desser ts. Even in the main r oom, children may or der off the Petite Cafe menu. 501 Geary St. (at Taylor St.). & 415/292-0101. www.grandcafe-sf.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. M ain c ourses $12–$22 lunch, $19–$32 dinner ; P etite C afe $8–$17. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Breakfast Mon–Fri 7–10:30am, Sat-Sun brunch 8am–2:30pm; lunch Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; dinner Mon– Thurs 5:30–10pm, Fri–Sat 5:30–11pm, Sun 5–10pm. Petite Cafe, Sun–Thurs 11:30am–11pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am– midnight. Muni: Powell-Hyde or Powell-Mason cable car to Union Sq., and then walk 2 blocks west.
5 U N I O N S Q UA R E / T H E F I N A N C I A L D I S T R I C T
EXPENSIVE
Grand Cafe FRENCH The restaurant certainly lives up to its name in terms of decor
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FRENCH Ironically, the first entry in a chapter called “FamilyFriendly Dining” doesn’t really fit that description. I t is the one of two ex ceptions I’ve listed for a night when you have a babysitter and want a fabulous meal. It’s clear from the moment you walk in the door and see the r egal, intimate dining r oom, tented in 900 yards of richly-patterned r ed and gold fabric, that F leur de Lys is the epitome of ultraluxurious dining. I n keeping with the warm, inviting decor , the impeccable ser vice is comfortably unpretentious. As for the aw e-inspiring food, the man behind the master y is awar d-winning chef Hubert Keller, a native of the Alsace region of France now recognized as one of the best chefs in the world (and he has ser ved as a judge on TV’s Top Chef). Keller’s kitchen is firmly rooted in classic F rench cooking, but includes some playful touches inspir ed by his ne w countr y, such as tr uffle-infused popcorn and an amazing mini foie gras hamburger. Choose from a menu of three, four, or five courses and expect to be blown away by such offerings as sear ed Moroccan spiced sea scallops with pomegranate jus, cauliflower flan, and O setra caviar or v eal tournedos scented with foamy lobster bisque and veal essence. A v egetarian tasting menu, with options such as tr uffled white bean soup with green garlic fondue and wild mushr ooms, is also available. The desserts and cheese selection are obscenely delicious, and the wine list includes sev eral hundred selections. (Although I’ve noted this isn’t a place for kids, I did once spot two pr e-teen boys dining with their parents; they were well behaved and seemed to enjoy the experience.)
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108 Millennium VEGAN Admittedly, Millennium is not for ev eryone. Some v egetarian eateries are so good even the most avowed carnivores will find something to love. One such place is Greens in the M arina (p. 133). B ut Millennium is not just v egetarian. It’s vegan, meaning you won’t find any animal products on the premises. Without eggs or dairy, concocting a meal meat-eaters can sink their teeth into becomes mor e challenging. But I list this place pr ecisely because so many y oung adults ar e opting out on meat these days, and at least here teens won’t be groaning at the menu and then ordering little more than plain lettuce leav es. They can choose instead fr om various meatless concoctions that are rich in flav ors and protein. One note of advice: S tick to dishes that don ’t try to mimic ones traditionally made with animal pr oducts. If you find exotically-spiced dishes on the seasonally changing menu, such as the Indian-influenced griddle cakes, you won’t be disappointed. But dishes like the warm spinach salad with tofu tempura left me wishing for real goat cheese, and the black bean torte could be so much tastier with actual sour cr eam. O ne plus is that the r estaurant can accommodate any food av ersion or allergy. Call ahead and let them kno w y our kid is allergic to so y, wheat, or nuts, and they’ll happily put something together.
U N I O N S Q UA R E / T H E F I N A N C I A L D I S T R I C T
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580 Gear y St. (at Jones St.). & 415/345-3900. w ww.millenniumrestaurant.com. H ighchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. Main courses $21–$24. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5:30–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–10pm. Muni: No. 27-Bryant or no. 38-Geary to Jones St., or Powell-Hyde or Powell-Mason cable car to Union Sq., and then walk 2 blocks w est.
MODERATE
Puccini & Pinetti ITALIAN This is one Union Square restaurant the kids will defi-
nitely enjo y. Childr en ar e awfully pleased with the r estaurant’s activity pack, which includes cray ons, and the make-y our-own pizza option, wher e ser vers bring the pizza dough and fixings to the table so that young chefs can create exactly what they want. For adults, the menu offers plenty of hear ty pasta dishes and w ell-known Italian fav orites such as eggplant parmigiana and v eal piccata. S ervice is considerate, and the color ful decor welcoming. You can tr eat Puccini & P inetti as a casual dinner stop or make an evening of it. 129 Ellis St. (at Cyril Magnin St.). & 415/392-5500. www.pucciniandpinetti.com. Kids’ menu, highchairs, boosters. Reser vations accepted. Main courses $13–$25 lunch, $16–$29 dinner ; k id’s menu $4–$8. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. M on–Sat 11:30am–4pm; M on–Thurs 4–10pm; F ri–Sat 4–11pm; Sun 5–10pm. Muni: Powell-Hyde or Powell-Mason cable car to Union Sq., and then walk 2 blocks south on Powell to Ellis and turn right.
Sanraku
Finds JAPANESE/SUSHI Every neighborhood in S an Francisco has a smattering of restaurants boasting “artistic,” “exciting,” or just plain cheap sushi. That is all well and good, but raw fish is raw fish. It should be fresh and prepared by sushi chefs who kno w what they ’re doing. Although it ’s tough to mess up a California r oll, it ’s equally hard to ser ve a tr uly delicious slice of maguro (tuna) sashimi, and S anraku succeeds in doing just that. The simple decor and casual atmosphere belie the truly fresh and well-prepared sushi. S ome people may wonder what a sushi joint is doing in a family guide, but at least in these par ts children are well acquainted with sushi. My family and I ar e r egulars her e. While D ad and I sip sake, the kids enjo y steamed edamame (so ybeans), avocado and California r olls, and cooked shrimp sushi. S anraku is moderately priced, but ordering a la car te could edge the bill into the expensiv e category. For more dollar-conscious options, consider the combination dinners, such as sushi and sashimi, sushi and tempura, or sushi and teriyaki beef , which come with steamed rice, a house salad, and fresh fruit.
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FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY D I N I N G
A G Ferrari Foods 17 Beard Papa’s 16 Belden Place 20 Blondie’s Pizza 11 The Cellar at Macy’s 9 Crocker Galleria 19 Dottie’s True Blue Café 6 Fleur de Lys 3 Grand Café 7 Laurel Court 1 Mel’s Drive-in 14 Metreon 15 Millenium 5 Osha Thai Restaurant 4 Out the Door 12 Palace Hotel 18 Puccini & Pinetti 10 Sanraku 2 Sears Fine Foods 8 Sellers Markets 24 Soup Freaks 23 Specialty’s Café and Bakery 21 Tadich Grill 22 Tonga Room at the Fairmont Hotel 1 Westfield San Francisco Centre 12 ‘wichcraft 13
Dining Near Union Square & the Financial District 109
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FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY D I N I N G
Belden Place—A Slice of Europe in San Francisco
U N I O N S Q UA R E / T H E F I N A N C I A L D I S T R I C T
5
If you want t o have a nic e meal with pr oper table ser vice downtown without breaking the bank , c ome t o Belden Plac e. This alley in the F inancial Distric t, bordered by Kearny, Montgomery, Pine, and Bush streets, is lined with moderately priced restaurants cooking up French, Italian, Catalan, and other Mediterranean far e. The lane is patr onized b y plent y of business people , but the outdoor tables and colorful banners lend an informal feeling, so don’t hesitate to bring the kids. Stroll on over and take your pick from the following: Starting at the P ine Street side of Belden Plac e is Brindisi Cucina di Mar e (88 Belden Plac e; & 415/593-8000), specializing in I talian seaf ood. F rom stuffed calamari and seafood risotto to plenty of kid-friendly pasta, most main courses are less than $24. Belden Taverna (52 Belden Place; & 415/986-8887) serves excessively rich g rilled meats and seaf ood, and a f ew pasta choic es as well. Entrees range from $16 to $25. Named for its address, B44 (44 Belden Place; & 415/986-6287) is a Catalanstyle bistro, serving nine kinds of paella, including meat, seafood, and vegetarian items at $17 t o $21 each f or lunch and $18 t o $24 for dinner. Salads, small plates, and dishes such as r oasted salt c od or r oasted rabbit ar e also on the menu. The tasty food could be too challenging for less adventurous kids. Just next door, Plouf (40 Belden Place; & 415/986-6491) offers mussels prepared seven different ways, as w ell as French-accented salads, sandwiches, fish, and meats. All lunch items are less than $20, with fish and chips or a sirloin bur ger being the most k id-friendly among them. Dinner entr ees range fr om $15 t o $26. A better choice for families is at 28 Belden Place: Café Tiramisu (& 415/4217044; w ww.cafetiramisu.com). K ids will appr eciate the I talian far e, including pasta dishes—rang ing from $14 t o $18 at lunch and $14 t o $21 at dinner— which those with smaller appetites can easily share. Main courses such as cioppino, Italian seafood stew, or veal scaloppini range from $17 to $23 (up to $34 at dinner). The most moderat ely pric ed pick of the bunch is P arisian-Bistro inspired Café Bastille (22 Belden Place; & 415/986-5673). While parents savor French onion soup , quiche, or g rilled steak and fries , k ids can shar e a F rench hot dog on a baguett e with cheese and fries . Most lunch and dinner choic es are $9 to $18.50. But perhaps you want something mor e traditional, and you’ve reached the end of the alley . You’re in luck . On the c orner at 374 Bush Str eet y ou’ll find Sam’s Grill (& 415/421-0594), one of the oldest r estaurants in San Francisco. Grab a cozy wooden booth and order charcoal-broiled fish, roasted chicken, or a simple pasta dish. Entrees range from $10.50 to $50. For more info, visit www. belden-place.com.
704 Sutter St. (at Taylor St.). & 415/771-0803. w ww.sanraku.com. H ighchairs, boosters. Reser vations accepted. Main courses $12–$38. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 4–10pm. Muni: No. 2-Clement, no. 3-Jackson, no. 4-Sutter, or no. 27-Bryant to Taylor St.
Tadich Grill AMERICAN/SEAFOOD People come to the Tadich Grill as much for 111 the history as for the food. Businesspeople and tourists alike appreciate the clubby, traditional feel of S an Francisco’s oldest r estaurant, which star ted life in a differ ent location more than 150 years ago. The long bar, dark wood interior, and gruff waiters may seem intimidating to little ones, so settle the family into one of the many cozy booths to better enjoy the old-time feel. S tick to uncomplicated and traditional dishes, such as shrimp Louie, grilled fish of the day , clam chowder, or creamed spinach, and y ou will eat w ell. The Tadich doesn’t take reservations, so be prepared to stand in line. 240 California St. (bt w. Front and Batt ery sts). & 415/391-1849. Boosters. Reservations not ac cepted. Main courses $15–$34. MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–9:30pm; Sat 11:30am–9:30pm. Muni: F-M arket streetcar to Front St. or no. 1-California or no. 41-Union bus to California St.
INEXPENSIVE
Blondie’s P izza PIZZA The staff her e cuts and sells huge w edges of thick-cr usted
63 P owell St. (bt w. Ellis and M arket sts). & 415/982-6168. P izza $3.50–$3.75 per slic e. AE, MC, V accepted on orders over $30; otherwise, cash only. Mon–Sat 10am–10pm; Sun 10am–8pm. Muni: PowellHyde or Powell-Mason cable car to Ellis St.
Dottie’s True Blue Cafe AMERICAN/BREAKFAST The best meal to hav e here is breakfast (some locals and tourists claim it ’s the best in to wn), but the place is so small that you’ll have to wait—unless y ou have a family of early risers. The big por tions of house-made br eads, cornmeal pancakes, F rench toast, eggs, gourmet sausages, fr esh orange juice, and cheer y trim make the wait w ell wor th it. The lunch menu featur es hearty salads, sandwiches, and burgers.
Sears F ine F ood AMERICAN/BREAKF AST Although no longer independently owned (they were bought by Lori’s Diner International), Sears Fine Food still makes an effort to maintain its original charm—complete with tile floors, 1930s-style light fixtures, and old photographs decorating the walls. I t’s the per fect spot for br eakfast or lunch, with Reubens, burgers, and fish sandwiches among the classics y ou’ll find on the lunch menu, all under $10. I won ’t recommend Sears for dinner , since entr ees start at $14, pushing this into the moderate price categor y—not where a diner belongs—and, for that price, y ou can have a more interesting meal elsewhere. The real reason to bring the kids to S ears is their “ World Famous 18 S wedish Pancakes,” dollar-coin-sized pancakes allegedly still made with Hilbur Sear’s 1938 recipe and served hot with butter and maple syrup at any time of day for $8.95. You can also order other breakfast items daily until 3pm. 439 P owell St. (at Sutt er St.). & 415/986-0700. w ww.searsfinefood.com. K ids it ems on menu . H ighchairs, boosters. Reser vations for dinner only . M ain courses $8–$12 br eakfast, $7–$10 lunch, $14–$29 dinner. V, MC, AE, DISC. Daily 6:30am–10pm. Muni: 2, 3, 4 buses , Powell cable car lines.
5 U N I O N S Q UA R E / T H E F I N A N C I A L D I S T R I C T
522 Jones St. (bt w. Gear y and O ’Farrell sts .). & 415/885-2767. Boost ers. Reser vations not ac cepted. Main courses $6–$13. DISC, MC, V. Wed–Mon 7:30am–3pm. Muni: Powell-Hyde or Powell-Mason cable car to Union Sq., and then walk 3 blocks w est on Geary to Jones and turn left.
FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY D I N I N G
pizzas slathered with tomato sauce, cheese, and v arious toppings at a constant pace. A t $3.50 a slice, you can feed an army and still hav e change left over for a cable car ticket. You can order pepperoni, but if you ask for carrots and broccoli, you’ve even got yourself a healthy meal. You won’t find tables her e, but the benches at U nion Square are just 2 blocks away.
FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY D I N I N G
112 Sellers Markets CALIFORNIA When I’ve got to run an errand downtown on a weekday, I try to do it around lunchtime so that I can swing b y Sellers Markets. At first glance, it’s a sleek lunch spot for the Financial District worker bees. Then you notice that these are no ordinary sandwiches and salads. In fact, all the meats, cheeses, and breads at Sellers Markets come from “artisans,” as Jim and Deb Sellers like to call the local ranchers, farmers, and bakers who pr ovide the ingredients for such mouth-watering possibilities as the BBQ chicken sandwich made with fr ee-range pulled r otisserie chicken and melted smoked mozzar ella. You’ll also find a gener ous selection of salads, fr om a Cobb salad with naturally raised pancetta to a sushi-grade ahi tuna salad. F or the kids, try one of the thin-crust pizzas or the ham and cheese baguette. Sellers Markets also serves breakfast, so if y ou’re up and about early stop in for a br eakfast pizza or an egg “ a” muffin, a fried egg on an “ artisan” E nglish muffin with additional toppings like N iman Ranch bacon or locally made goat cheese and spinach.
SOUTH OF MARKET
5
388 M arket St. (at P ine and F ront sts .) & 415/956-3825. 595 M arket St. (at 2nd and M arket sts .) & 415/227-9850. www.sellersmarkets.com. No r eservations. Br eakfast main c ourses $4.25–$5.95. Lunch main courses $6.95–$12. AE, DISC, MC, V. 388 Market St.: Mon–Thurs 7:30am–3pm. Muni: 1, 31, 38 bus, streetcar to Embarcadero Station; 595 M arket St.: M on–Thurs 7:30am–7:30pm; F ri 7:30am–3pm. 1, 31, 38 bus, streetcar to Montgomery Station.
3 SOUTH OF MARKET EXPENSIVE
Palace Hotel AFTERNOON TEA Tea under the stained-glass dome of the G arden
Court at the P alace Hotel, which is ev ery bit as grand as the poshest hotels in London, is a celebratory affair. Linen and silver grace the elegant tables, and the menu consists of the customary dainty sandwiches, scones, and sweets, served with tea of your choice. The Palace clev erly offers a special “P rincess” and “P rince” tea for childr en 12 and under . Along with the sandwiches and pastries, childr en receive a cr own and scepter , and ar e treated royally as well. During the winter holidays, tea ser vice is offered 6 days a week. 2 New Montgomery St. (at Market St.). & 415/546-5089. www.gardencourt-restaurant.com. Kids’ menu, highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. Tea service $40–$52; children’s tea $32. AE, DC, MC, V. Sat 1–3pm. From first Fri after Thanksgiving through Dec tea is Mon–Sat 2–4pm. Muni: An y streetcar to Montgomery St. Station.
Restaurant LuLu
CALIFORNIA Seasonally changing dishes at this enduringly popular SoMa restaurant might include leek, goat cheese, and bacon tart; stuffed pumpkin blossoms; and grilled prawn risotto . S erved on large plates, they ar e meant to be shared. Rotisserie specials alternate during the w eek—Wednesday may be leg of lamb day, while S aturday is r eserved for r oast duck—but the mouth-watering r osemaryscented chicken is a staple. Just make sure you’re not seated too close to the rotisserie, lest you come out smelling like smoked meat. With its upscale clientele and sophisticated menu, Lulu’s feels quite gr own-up, but with a pizza o ven and plenty of pasta dishes on the menu, y ou’ll find something the kids will enjo y. Moreover, the large, multi-r oom space and constant buzz of diners means y ou won’t have to worr y about noisy childr en making a scene; no one will hear them. I n its price categor y, Lulu’s is one of the mor e family-friendly options in the neighborhood.
Fun Facts High
Tea
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The British tradition of high t ea is quite different from afternoon tea. High tea was a hearty meal eaten by the working class around the kitchen table, which often featured high-back chairs—hence the name. Afternoon tea is a more delicate affair with guests perched on the end of cushioned chairs and sett ees, and with the lady of the house pla ying “Mother,” a term of endearment bestowed on the person in charge of pouring the tea.
816 Folsom St. (bt w. 4th and 5th sts .). & 415/495-5775. www.restaurantlulu.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. Main courses $12–$17 lunch, $15–$30 dinner. AE, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11:30am– 10pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–11pm. Muni: No. 30-Stockton or no. 45-Union-Stockton bus to Folsom St.
MODERATE
Pazzia ITALIAN This restaurant, a quick walk from the Yerba Buena Center and the
Museum of Modern Art, serves simple and satisfying dishes like excellent pizza, delicious pasta, and roasted meats and chicken. The uncomplicated menu is a delightful California twist on traditional Italian fare. The staff is warm and friendly to kids, and it ’s definitely a family-oriented little place. If you’re in the area and want a real, sit-down meal, there’s no better pick for the price. 337 3rd St. (btw. Folsom and Harrison sts.). & 415/512-1693. Boosters, highchairs. Reservations recommended. M ain c ourses $11–$26. AE, DISC, MC, V. M on–Fri lunch 11:30am–2:30pm; M on–Thurs dinner 6–10pm, F ri–Sat dinner 6–10:30pm. Muni: An y str eetcar t o M ontgomery St. Station; no . 15-3r d, no . 30-Stockton, or no. 45-Union to Folsom St.
INEXPENSIVE
In addition to the options belo w, you can find a branch of M el’s Drive-in (p. 136) and Osha Thai (p. 137) in this neighborhood.
5 SOUTH OF MARKET
342 Howard St. (at Fremont St.). & 415/908-3900. www.townhallsf.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$19 lunch, $19–$29 dinner . AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri lunch 11:30am– 2:30pm; Sun– Thurs dinner 5:30–10pm; F ri–Sat dinner 5:30–11pm. Muni: An y str eetcar on M arket t o Fremont St., and then walk 2 blocks south.
FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY D I N I N G
Town Hall AMERICAN This outstanding tribute to N ew American cuisine, co-owned by the acclaimed chefs brothers Mitchell and Steven Rosenthal, is so good I had to include it here, even though it’s a bit grown-up for kids. Housed in a 100-year-old former electric war ehouse, Town Hall’s decor ev okes early American ar chitecture and sensibilities, with exposed brick walls, crisp white ribbed wainscoting, and C raftsman-style tables and chairs. The food echoes the American feel, drawing on traditions fr om around the country, with a special nod to New Orleans. Starters may include cornmeal-fried oysters on baby spinach with creamy bacon dressing or warm biscuits with local ham and pepper jam. Two stellar dishes we’ve enjoyed include wild king salmon with corn and shrimp hash, cherry tomatoes, and hush puppies and a naturally raised pork chop with smashed potatoes, English peas, and fava beans in garlic parsley butter. For dessert, don’t miss the butterscotch and chocolate pot de crème. I’ve spotted pre-teens here at dinnertime, but it’s a pretty happening scene. Opt instead to bring the kids for lunch.
o t Mason M so Fort en er Center
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EEllis l s St. Pizzeria Delfina 14 Cathedral Cathedra Eddy St St. Presidio Social Club 2 Jefferson Square Rainforest Café 31 Hayward Restaurant Lulu 43 Playground Rincon Center 41 McAl ister St McAllister St. San Francisco Fulton St St. Crepe Cart 28 Alamo Grove St St. HAYES 20 Santa Barbara Ice Square Hayes St. St VALLEY 22 Creamery 6 23 Felll SSt. Fe Slanted Door 40 Oak St St. Swensen’s Creamery 35 Tango Gelato 15 St. LOWER HAIGHT Page St 24 Taylor’s Refresher 40 Haight St. St Town Hall 42 Waller St. S Town’s End 46 Duboce Hermann St St. Park 2001 Thai Stick 16 D boce Du St. et Ave Yank Sing 41 ark M ZA Pizza 36 14th St To the Mission H nry Hen 25 26 Zuni Café 24 ry Stt.
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San Francisco Bay
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A16 3 Amici’s East Coast Pizzeria 47 Ana Madara 27 Antica Trattoria 33 Arlequin 22 Betelnut 9 Blue Mermaid Chowder House 28 Boulange de Polk 34 Ciao Bella Gelato 40 Café Pescatore 32 Chow 26 Citizen Cake 20 Crepevine 12 Crossroads Café 45 DELICArf-1 40 Dragon Well 5 Ella’s 13 Ferry Building Marketplace 40 Fog City Diner 37 Franciscan 30 Frjtz 23 Ghirardelli Ice Cream and Chocolate Shop 27 Greens/Greens to Go 8 The Grove 4, 17 Hayes Street Grill 21 In-N-Out Burger 29 Isobune 19 Juban Yakiniku House 18 Koh Samui & The Monkey 41 Kokkari Estiatorio 38 La Terrasse 1 Lulu Petite 40 Mamacita 3 Mastrelli’s Delicatessen 40 McCormick & Kuletto’s 27 Mel’s Drive-in 7 Miette 40 Mijita 40 Mistral Rotisserie Provencal 40 Norman’s Ice Cream & Freezes 28 Osha Thai Restaurant 10, 39 Out the Door 40 Pasta Pomodoro 11, 25 Pazzia 44
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See “Dining Near Chinatown & North Beach” map
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FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY D I N I N G
Food Courts
SOUTH OF MARKET
5
What could be mor e democratic than a f ood court? Having a wide variet y of options r educes strif e f or families with diff erent tast es, which is just about every family I k now. Also, kids have fun waiting in the line of their choic e and exercising a bit of independenc e. In the Union S quare area, the Crocker Galleria at 50 Post St., at Montgomery Street, has a terrific food court on the third level, open M onday thr ough F riday until 6pm and Satur days until 5pm. I t’s always packed at lunch with offic e workers seeking a quick , inexpensive bite. At the Fountain Café you’ll find breakfast bagels, eggs, and baked goods in the morning and sandwiches and bur gers at lunch. Get a chili fix at Chili Up; the different versions come with tortillas or corn bread. You’ll also find counters for Leila M editerranean Cuisine; 360 Deg ree Gourmet Burrit os; Chaat C afé!, with great I ndian take -out; New A sia Restaurant; and N iji Japanese Grill , among other international options. To avoid the rush, arriv e before 11:30am or af ter 1pm and grab a table in the light-filled atrium. The Cellar in M acy’s on Gear y and St ockton streets, is not t echnically a food court, but it does ha ve a Jamba Juic e, a Wolfgang Puck Express Café, a Boudin Bakery, a Ben & Jerr y’s, and a cookie counter. If you’re in SoMa, the food court in the new por tion of the Westfield S an F rancisco C entre at 5th and M ission streets off ers much bett er eats than y our a verage mall options . No w y ou can choose from Andale M exican cuisine, Askew Grill, Bistro Burger, and, what ma y become the food court’s most coveted destination, Out the Door, part of famed chef Charles Phan’s collection of restaurants (see Slanted Door on p. 122). In addition t o these and other choic es, a gourmet g rocery opens t o the f ood c ourt, which has seating for up to 800 customers. And therein lies the rub. The choices may be enticing, but hanging out with 799 other customers in a basement food court is not my idea of fun (although my elder daughter thought it seemed like a grand idea; you never know what’ll please the k ids). If your family is set on a f ood court, consider the mor e manageably sized one at Metreon at 4th and M ission streets. There, the Firewood Cafe pr ovides pizzas and salads , L una A zul makes gener ously siz ed burrit os, and Buck horn Grill satisfies hung ry meat- eaters. L ong Lif e Noodle C o. and Sanraku, described on p. 108, offer tasty Asian options. The most attrac tive food court is Rincon Center, at 101 Spear St., bet ween Mission and Ho ward streets. The 1930s M oderne/Art Deco building is on the National Register of Historic Places and contains an 85-foot waterfall inside the dramatic atrium and murals in the f ormer post office lobby. For a truly cosmopolitan experienc e, y ou can send emissaries t o Arabi f or t op-notch M iddle Eastern salads, to Sorabol for Korean grilled meats and soup , to Thai to Go for pad Thai, to Wazwan for Indian dishes and naan br ead, and to Taqueria Pepe’s for burrit os. Bur gers, pizzas , sandwiches , and soups ar e also t o be had . Yank Sing, the preeminent dim sum restaurant, has a lovely dining room here, which I highly r ecommend if y ou have time f or a mor e leisurely lunch (p . 124). With the exception of Yank Sing, which is open daily, the restaurants in Rincon Center are open weekdays from 11am to 3pm.
Beard P apa’s BAKERY When this J apanese chain of cr eam puffs hit the U.S., it
became an o vernight sensation. What’s the secr et to these luscious cr eam puffs? B eard Papa’s claims it could be their special 2-hour process mixing custard cream, real whipped cream, and M adagascar v anilla beans to pr oduce the filling, a pr ocess that ’s r epeated several times a day. Or maybe it’s the ultra fresh crust. Or the interesting way the cream puffs are just a little less sw eet than y ou’d expect them to be. Well, you’ll just hav e to come find out for y ourselves. You can get the traditional cr eam puffs ser ved plain or dipped in chocolate on any day, but unusual fillings like strawberry, green tea, or pumpkin are strictly seasonal.
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99 Yerba Buena Lane (at M ission St., bt w. 3rd and 4th sts .). & 415/978-9972. Westfield San F rancisco Centre, 865 Market St. (at 5th St.) & 415/978-9975. www.beardpapasf.com. Cream puffs $2.25 each or $22/dozen. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 10am–8pm; Sun 10am–6:30pm. Muni: No . 30-Stockton or no. 45-UnionStockton bus to Mission St.
415 Brannan St. (at 3rd St.). & 415/369-0007. www.kohsamuiandthemonkey.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations accepted. Main courses $8–$22. MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–3pm; Sun– Thurs 5–10pm; F ri–Sat 5–10:30pm. Muni: No. 30-Stockton or no. 45-Union to Brannan St.
’wichcraft
868 Mission St. (btw. 4th and 5th sts .). & 415/593-3895. www.wichcraftnyc.com. Highchairs, boosters. No r eservations. Sandwiches $6–$10. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. M on–Thurs 8am–7pm; F ri 8am–8pm; Sat 10am–8pm; Sun 10am–7pm. Muni: No. 30-Stockton or no. 45-Union-Stockton bus to Mission St.
5 SOUTH OF MARKET
SAND WICHES New Yorkers kno w Tom Colicchio for his lauded restaurants Gramercy Tavern and C raft. You may kno w the award-winning chef for his role as head judge on the TV show Top Chef. Now it’s time to get to know him for his . . . um, sandwiches. Yes, Colicchio’s West Coast debut is based on slices of br ead with stuff inside. The “’wich” in “’wichcraft ” is shor t for sandwich, get it? N o matter. When you bite into his juicy slow-roasted pork sandwich with red cabbage and jalapenos, you’ll get it. Vegetarians may like the grilled gruyere and caramelized onions on rye, or even a tasty vegan option with chickpeas and r oasted peppers. For kids, simply turn to the br eakfast menu, which is served all day (and is cheaper). M y older daughter ate her entir e toasted ham, avocado, and butter sandwich, and loved it. The younger one had a hard time getting her mouth around an impressive triple-decker peanut butter and jelly sandwich, but she almost managed to finish it. Although ’wichcraft is located in the ne w Westfield San Francisco Centre, it’s got the best location of any r estaurant there: outside. While the other dining spots ar e in the thr oes of the mall cr owd, ’wichcraft enjo ys a corner spot with two 20-foot-high glass walls looking out onto the street. Okay, so the view is just of a parking structure, but the light and air y space—furnished with many small tables and a few long, communal tables—is sleek and welcoming. Word has it Colicchio will expand his offerings and open later into the ev ening. We’ll definitely be back for that.
FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY D I N I N G
Koh Samui & The Monkey THAI Thai seems to be the ne w Chinese, with spring rolls and pad Thai having taken the place of broccoli beef and cashew chicken as favored take-out fare. But if you want a break from the “typical” Thai food you find most places these days, come to K oh S amui. Combinations sur e to whet y our appetite include crushed sesame scallops in yellow curry sauce or pumpkin curry chicken. Certainly, you’ll find plenty of familiar menu items, fr om green papaya salad to green curry chicken. For the kids, order the wok-tossed noodles with peanut sauce or ev en some of the satays. As long as y ou steer clear of anything mar ked with an asterisk (for spicy), the kids will be fine. Be sure to order the fried bananas for dessert. “The Monkey” part of the name refers to the attractive shop next door, which sells Thai antiques.
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Value Bar gain Alert! For $9.50 and a one -drink minimum each, you can feed the kids at the Fairmont Hotel’s Tonga Room during happy hour from 5 to 7pm on weekdays. Polynesian appetizers, including pot stickers, chicken drummettes, Shanghai noodles, fruit, and crudités will fill ’em up, and the tropical storm cued to thunder on the halfhour will provide entertainment. There’s nothing else like it.
4 NOB HILL EXPENSIVE
FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY D I N I N G
Laurel C ourt
C H I N ATO W N
5
AFTERNOON TEA The F airmont H otel’s lo vely Laur el Cour t restaurant, with ivory pillars surrounding lighted domes and a low ceiling that makes the space feel quite intimate, is open for meals almost all day long. Taking the California Street cable car from the foot of Market up to Nob Hill for breakfast sounds like fun to me, but you’ll spend a small fortune on your waffles or eggs. Afternoon tea is dear as well, but seems more fitting given the surroundings, and will be especially appreciated by any girls in the family . The kid ’s tea menu isn ’t exactly to code: The cr ustless sandwiches include peanut butter and jelly and tuna salad, and hot cider and cocoa ar e non-tea alternatives. Fairmont Hot el, 950 M ason St. (at C alifornia St.). & 415/772-5259. w ww.fairmont.com. K ids’ menu , highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. Tea service $34–$46, children’s tea $30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Breakfast daily 6:30–10:30am, lunch daily 11:30–2:30pm, dinner Tues–Sat 6–10pm; afternoon tea daily 2:30–4:30pm. Muni: No. 1-California bus or California St. cable car to the Fairmont Hotel.
5 C H I N ATO W N MODERATE
Great Eastern Restaurant CHINESE The specialty here is seafood, which you can
observe swimming ar ound in tanks against the back wall. D inner doesn’t come fr esher than this, so if y ou’re in the mood for steamed whole r ockfish, crab ser ved in a doz en ways, shrimp , lobster, or whatev er’s in season, G reat Eastern is the best choice in the ’hood. Just don’t let the waiter steer y ou away from the fish tanks toward more “typical” Chinese-American fare; you’ll get the same food you could have gotten for less at a corner Chinese takeout joint. That’s what happened to us some y ears back when we were tourists in San Francisco—now we know better. Like the vast majority of Chinatown restaurants, this one has big tables for extended families. The basement dining r oom is comfortable, but w e prefer the upstairs. O ne of the nice things about eating in Chinatown is that you’re almost expected to have kids in tow. 649 Jackson St. (bt w. Grant and Kearn y sts.). & 415/986-2500. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. Main courses $11–$30. AE, MC, V. Daily 10am–1am. Muni: No. 15-3rd St. bus to Jackson St.
Dining Near Chinatown & North Beach Joe DiMaggio Playground
Telegraph Hill (Pioneer) Park Greenwich Steps
St ich St. Greenwich Gree
St Kearny K arny St.
Pl. Genoa Pl
s bu m lu Co
St. Beckett St
HISTORIC DISTRICT St Gold St. 14
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St. Washi gton St Washington
Pl Waverle Pl. Waverley
T ansamerica Portsmouth Merchant St St. Transamerica Pyramid Square
S Clay St. 16
St. Commercial St
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Bocadillos 15 Gelato Classico 8 Great Eastern Restaurant 13 Hunan Home’s Restaurant 12 Il Pollaio 3
St. Sac amento St Sacramento
Joe DiMaggio’s Italian Chophouse 7 Lichee Garden 9 L’Osteria del Forno 4 Mario’s Bohemian Cigar Store 5 Molinari 11
Naan-N-Curry 14 Pasta Pomodoro 2 R&G Lounge 16 Rose Pistola 6 Trattoria Contadina 1 Victoria Pastry Co. 10
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120 Fun Facts
How to Tell Your Hakka from Your Hunan
FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY D I N I N G
Chinese cuisine c omes in man y guises. I f the menu doesn ’t state what pr ovince the r ecipes hail fr om, can y ou t ell y our Shanghai fr om y our Sz echuan? Here’s a little cheat sheet y ou can use t o impress your k ids.
C H I N ATO W N
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• Cantonese: M ost of the Chinese r estaurants in this chapt er fall int o this category. I n the w et, c oastal pr ovince of C anton, seaf ood and v egetables grew in abundance. Cantonese food thus relies on fresh ingredients, which are mildly seasoned with fla vors like g inger, soy sauce, and spring onions . Specialties include dim sum, noodles , seafood, and v egetable dishes. • Hakka: Hak ka peoples’ ancestors settled in the less f ertile, hilly r egions of southern China. Their cuisine uses dried and pr eserved ing redients and little seafood. Specialties include salt-baked chicken, stuffed bean curd, and crispy meatballs. • Hunan: Hot w eather in the mountainous Hunan r egion called f or str ong spices to help pr eserve food and mask spoilage . Today refrigeration keeps food fresh, but Hunan’s fondness for chili peppers, shallots, garlic, and other piquant fla vors r emains. F amiliar dishes include stir-fries , sw eet and sour chicken, and Hunan beef . • Mandarin: Mandarin, or Nor thern Chinese, cuisine st ems from the nation’s capital, Beijing, and neighboring provinces. Specialties include Peking duck and hot and sour soup . • Shanghai: Hailing fr om the east ern c oast of China, Shanghai cuisine is noted for using a lot of alc ohol and sugar, in addition to soy sauce. Specialties include drunken chicken and crisp y shrimp balls . • Szechuan: This w estern Chinese far e is w ell k nown f or its spic y, fla vorful seasonings. Chile pepper past es and oils ar e liberally used as c ooks striv e to combine hot, sour , sweet, and salt y tastes in dishes . Specialties include twice-cooked pork and t ea leaf duck .
R&G L ounge
CHINESE When you walk into this fav ored joint at the edge of Chinatown, you’ve got two options: pr oceeding upstairs to the fancier dining r oom, or descending into the basement. I f you have little ones with y ou, it’s likely the host will send you downstairs. This troubled my husband gr eatly; the linoleum flooring, fluor escent lighting, and omnipresent mirrors of the downstairs dining room offended his aesthetic sensibilities. B ut the decor doesn ’t seem to bother most diners, who r eturn time and again to R&G for authentically pr epared Cantonese fare featuring lots of fr esh seafood and plenty of meat dishes as w ell. Salt-and-pepper crab is a big hit, as is the smoky barbecued pork. Something about putting all the dishes on a big lazy S usan seems to encourage adventuresome dining, at least with my kids, who happily munched on all kinds of crab, pork, and noodle dishes. F or a real conversation-stopper, call 24 hours in advance and order the sweet-rice-stuffed chicken.
631 Kearny St. (at Commercial St.). & 415/982-7877. www.rnglounge.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. Main courses $7–$25 lunch, $10–$50 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am– 9:30pm. Muni: No. 30-Stockton bus.
INEXPENSIVE
121
Hunan Home’s Restaurant CHINESE
I was str uck by a r ecent newspaper article stating that 39% of U.S. kids aged 10 to 13 surveyed said Chinese was their favorite type of food. M y guess is these kids w ere thinking about w ell-known American-Chinese favorites like cashew chicken and sw eet and sour por k when they answ ered the pollster. Well, Hunan Home’s is made for them. I’m sure your kids will enjoy their meal as much as mine did at this place, which offers all the old fav orites in abundance. Tired of Kung Pao chicken? Try Kung Pao squid. Even if you’ve seen it all befor e, rest assured that the quality will be high and the por tions generous. The family dinner option includes egg rolls and wonton soup for $15 per person. There’s also a fish tank the kids will enjo y— just don’t tell them it’s dinner. 622 Jackson St. (at Kearny St.). & 415/982-2844. http://hunanhome.citysearch.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9–$30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11:30am–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–10pm. Muni: No. 15-3rd St. bus to Jackson St.
Lichee Garden CHINESE This longtime, consistently good Cantonese restaurant is
1416 Powell St. (btw. Broadway and Vallejo sts.). & 415/397-2290. http://licheegarden.citysearch.com. Highchairs. Reservations recommended. Main courses $5.50–$20. MC, V. Daily 11am–9:15pm. Muni: No . 30-Stockton or no. 45-Union-Stockton bus to Broadway.
EXPENSIVE
Kokkari Estia torio
GREEK This modern G reek r estaurant pr ovides a memorable and upscale dining experience that y ou can comfor tably enjo y with kids. Although the subtle lighting, cr owded bar, and r oaring fire in the first r oom suggest a more adult establishment, don ’t be concerned. The expansive back r oom, made to feel warmer with the inclusion of heavy wood furniture and richly hued tapestries, is an ideal place for families and large par ties. The cozy booths along the hall connecting the two rooms are also very suitable for diners with kids. The delectable menu is based on traditional Greek cuisine, but is inspir ed by the Bay Area’s bounty of fr esh, local ingredients and, as such, changes seasonally . At any time of the y ear, however, look for such house specialties as moussaka (eggplant and lamb casser ole) and delectable lamb chops made with naturally raised Niman Ranch meat. The plate of traditional Greek spreads and pita bread is gr eat for sharing, but is less inspir ed than some of the mor e exotic appetizers, such as fried zucchini cakes with y ogurt-mint dressing, or crispy smelts with lemon and
5 THE EMBARC ADERO/SOUTH BEACH
6 THE EMBARC ADERO/SOUTH BEACH
FA M I LY - F R I E N D LY D I N I N G
even a favorite among Chinatown residents. Lichee Garden’s lengthy menu is filled with familiar items like egg foo young, sweet-and-sour pork, delicious wonton soup, and every other dish y ou remember from your childhood, assuming y ou weren’t raised in China. The kitchen caters to those who can’t make the leap from American broccoli to Chinese broccoli by offering both, but the menu includes more adventurous fare as well. The list of seafood showcases many scallop inventions, and live lobster and crab in season—both highly r ecommended. The ex cellent dim sum makes a gr eat lunch option. Large and bright, the dining r oom has seen many families for the nearly thr ee decades it ’s been open. Service is businesslike and y ou won’t have to wait long for y our meal. It’s technically located one block north of Chinatown proper, but nowadays this area is essentially an extension of Chinatown.
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Ferry Building Marketplace—Gourmet to Go
THE EMBARC ADERO/SOUTH BEACH
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In this one building y ou’ll find mor e top-quality lunch options than in man y entire cities. I n keeping with its r ole as the epic enter of San F rancisco’s food scene (p. 161), the Ferry Building entails more than a biweekly farmers’ market and esoteric gourmet shops selling the finest- grade olive oil, rare breed pork, or exotic fungi. Many of the cit y’s best r estaurants have lunch c ounters here, with scrumptious “to go” versions of their sit- down fare, and other shops pr offer unusual, irresistible take-out goodies. As you walk int o the F erry Building’s main doors , just t o the lef t you’ll see Lulu Petite (Marketplace Shop #19; & 415/362-7019), a deli store offshoot of Restaurant Lulu (p. 112), with seasonal soups, hot quiches, and sandwiches like its superlativ e crisp y chicken special , which sells f or $9. Also near the main doors is DELICArf-1 (Shop #45, & 415/834-0344) a Japanese deli wher e you can grab an organic bento boxed lunch and side dishes like sea weed salad or wasabi potato salad. Down the main hall t o the left is Out the Door (next to Slanted Door, Shop #5; & 415/321-3740), with a delectable Vietnamese take-away menu inspired by its famed sister restaurant Slanted Door (see below). Kids will love the spring rolls, $8 for an order, and the chicken steamed buns at $3 apiece. Near Out the Door is Mistral Rotisserie P rovencal (Shop #41; & 415/399-9751), offering melt-in-your-mouth r oasted meats , hot soups , and sandwiches with hear ty plated meals at $6 t o $13. The Ferry Building is also full of eat eries with table seating. I described the most k id-friendly of these, Taylor’s Refresher (p. 125) and Mijita (p. 125), separately below. For desser t, it ’s har d t o pass up the divine pastries at Miette (Shop #10; & 415/837-0330 ). E ven har der t o r esist ar e the luscious fr ozen tr eats nex t door at Ciao Bella Gelato (Shop #8; & 415/834-9330), with inspir ed flavors like cinnamon oatmeal cookie or key lime with graham cracker swirl.
parsley. For finicky eaters, the kitchen can fix up a plate of butter ed or zo pasta. The traditional spinach and cheese pastr y spanakopita is a hit with my kids—and it ’s a great way to get them to eat their spinach. 200 Jackson St. (at F ront St.). & 415/981-0983. www.kokkari.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reser vations recommended. M ain c ourses $14.50–$29 lunch, $18.50–$39 dinner . AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. M on–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Mon–Thurs 5:30–10pm; Fri 5:30–11pm; Sat 5–11pm. Muni: No . 10-Townsend to Jackson St., and then walk 2 blocks east.
Slanted Door
VIETNAMESE This may well be the most popular r estaurant in San Francisco. No matter that it has twice r elocated to bigger spaces, mo ving from its original site in the M ission to a larger space in the E mbarcadero to its curr ent location in an enormous corner of the F erry B uilding. The huge space, o verlooking the water and framed by walls of glass, is still nearly impossible to get into without reservations. Even the expansive bar ar ea has an hour-long wait on w eekend evenings. But fame has not made Charles Phan, the owner behind this success stor y, rest on his laur els. The restaurant continues to pr oduce mouth-watering delicacies based on traditional Vietnamese dishes such
as shaking beef and lemon grass tofu, and the rav e reviews keep pouring in. Although B ill 123 Clinton did once dine with Chelsea at the Valencia Street location, this isn ’t necessarily a child-centered r estaurant. Although chances ar e the kids will like the spring r olls with peanut sauce or chicken claypot with caramel sauce as much as you will, you now have two alternatives to the crowds and the scene at the Slanted Door. Mid-day you can order to-go from the lunch counter, Out the Door, around the corner fr om the restaurant and enjoy it out back with bay vie ws or acr oss the r estaurant at the massiv e Vaillancourt fountain. Another “Out the Door,” adjacent to the Westfield San Francisco Centre food court, offers diners the choice to eat their food in an understated undergr ound restaurant. 1 Ferry Bldg. #3 (at Embarcadero). & 415/861-8032. www.slanteddoor.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. Main courses $11–$26 lunch, $16–$35 dinner . AE, MC, V. Lunch daily 11am– 2:30pm; afternoon tea 2:30–5:30pm; dinner 5:30–10pm. Muni: F-Market streetcar.
MODERATE
Bocadillos
710 M ontgomery St. (at Washington St.). & 415/982-2622. www.bocasf.com. Reser vations not accepted. Tapas $3–$16. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Wed 7am–10pm; Thurs-Fri 7am–10:30pm; Sat 5–10:30pm. Muni: No. 12-Folsom to Pacific, and then walk 2 blocks south, or no . 15-3rd St. t o Jackson St., and then walk 1 block south.
1300 Batt ery St. (at Embar cadero). & 415/982-2000. www.fogcitydiner.com. K ids’ menu , highchairs , boosters. Reservations recommended. Main courses $14–$24; k ids’ menu all it ems $6.50. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–10pm; F ri 11:30am–11pm; Sat 10:30am–11pm; Sun 10:30am–10pm. Muni: No. 10-Townsend bus or F-M arket streetcar to Battery St., or no. 15-3rd St. to Jackson St., and then walk 1 block south.
Town’s End CALIFORNIA/BRUNCH Named after the street it’s on, this low-key spot is in a part of town that really was once the “town’s end,” with little beyond it except warehouses and other industrial buildings. Now the little neighborhood of S outh Beach
5 THE EMBARC ADERO/SOUTH BEACH
Fog City Diner AMERICAN A S an F rancisco institution immor talized in a Visa commercial, the Fog City Diner has quite a few things going for it: terrific location, fun metallic exterior, sleek wood interior, festive atmosphere, and great outdoor area. Because it’s located near Levi’s Plaza, kids can climb around the fountain on the opposite side of Battery Street or r un ar ound in the minipar k next door . I n fair w eather, the outdoor seating lets you enjoy the bay views and green space. As for the food, the children are sure to be satisfied. The kids’ menu featur es all the usual far e (hot dogs, grilled cheese, buttered noodles, three cheese quesadilla, kids’ sundaes) and comes complete with a pack of crayons. The grown-up menu, on the other hand, tries a little too hard. Although it’s nice that they’ve branched out fr om more common diner far e, some of the mor e inventive creations—such as mu shu pork burritos filled with stir-fried v eggies—are not always as tasty as appear . You’re best off sticking to the mor e basic items such as burgers or a “Cobb” sandwich.
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SPANISH/TAPAS Like many top cooks in San Francisco, lauded chef Gerald Hirigoyen was not content to hav e only high-end r estaurants, like his P iperade, that only ser ves some of the people some of the time. A t Bocadillos, the B asque-born Hirigoyen serves delectable bite-siz e tidbits ( bocadillos means just that in S panish: bitesize snacks) in a cozy , low-key dining r oom with a long, communal table ser ving as its centerpiece. Essentially, what y ou get her e ar e tapas, and each is delightful, fr om the roasted peppers to the Catalan sausage to the lamb chops with mint chutney . While Bocadillos is casual and w ell priced, it may hav e too much of a boister ous after-work crowd for kids. Best to try it for lunch.
124 has a lot going for it, including the cleaned-up water front, AT&T Park, ne w condominiums, and r estaurants like this one. I n addition to tasty , r easonably priced food, Town’s End has a lo vely, albeit small outdoor dining ar ea. The kids can r un around on the grass while you await your meal, but they may just want to stay put because the first thing that comes to the table is a basket full of house-baked goodies: muffins and scones at brunch, fresh breads and rolls at dinnertime. After that, feast on thick blueberr y pancakes, creative omelets and frittatas, or organic salads. I f you come for dinner , consider the prix-fixe meal, which includes an appetiz er, main course, and desser t. (On Tues, the prix-fixe price is reduced, but beware the crowd.) Depending on the season, dinner offerings may include a New Mexico Caesar salad; ravioli with spinach, ricotta, and caramelized onions; or a naturally raised beef hamburger—ser ved on a homemade r oll, of course.
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2 Townsend St. (at Embarcadero). & 415/512-0749. www.townsend-restaurant.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. Main courses $6.50–$12 brunch, $11–$23 dinner ; prix-fixe $22 ($18 on Tues). AE, DC, MC, V. Breakfast Tues–Fri 7:30–11am, lunch 11:30am–2pm, dinner Tues–Thurs 5:30–9pm and Fri–Sat 5:30–9:30pm; Sat–Sun 8am–2:30pm. Muni: N- Judah streetcar to Brannan Station, and then walk south toward Townsend St.
THE EMBARC ADERO/SOUTH BEACH
5
Yank Sing
Finds CHINESE/DIM SUM For many S an F rancisco families, gathering with friends on a w eekend morning o ver dim sum is a fr equent occurrence. Families come together in groups of 6, 8, or 10 and seat themselves at a table, while servers carrying trays or pushing tr olleys offer an assor tment of bite-size Chinese delicacies, usually served three or four to a plate, for everyone to share. For years, we headed out to the Sunset to br unch at Ton Kiang, which I still r ecommend. But more recently we’ve made our way to Yank Sing, which gets my vote for best dim sum in the city. Yank Sing makes more than 100 varieties of dim sum, and ser ves at least 60 of them on any giv en day. Scallion prawns, stuffed crab claws, and sno w pea shoot dumplings ar e among the possibilities—and the quality is always top-notch. While the price is higher than at Ton Kiang, if you eat at the Rincon Center location, you get the added bonus of dining inside a lovely atrium housing an 80-foot-high water fall. The other good ne ws is, since Yank Sing has two convenient downtown locations, you can always pop in during the week for lunch, a popular alternative for locals who work in the area.
One Rincon Center, 101 Spear St. (at M ission St.). & 415/957-9300. 49 Stevenson St. (alley btw. Market and Mission sts. and 1st and 2nd sts .). & 415/541-4949. www.yanksing.com. Highchairs. Reservations recommended. Dim sum $3.65–$10. AE, DC, MC, V. Rincon Center hours: M on–Fri 11am–3pm; Sat, Sun, and holida ys 10am–4pm. St evenson St. hours: Daily 11am–3pm. Muni: F-M arket str eetcar. BAR T t o Embarcadero St. (for Rincon Center) or Montgomery St. (for Stevenson St.).
INEXPENSIVE
In addition to the options below, you can find Osha Thai in this neighborhood (p. 137). Amici’s East C oast P izzeria P IZZA Located acr oss the str eet fr om AT&T Park, this is the second S an Francisco location (the other is in Co w Hollow) of this r egional pizza joint specializing in East Coast–style pizzas baked in wood-fir ed brick o vens. Although it’s not my very favorite pizza in the city, it is pretty good, and there aren’t too many other reasonably priced options near the ballpark. The menu features several other items as well, including an assortment of pastas, hearty sandwiches such as Italian sausage or eggplant parmigiana, and salads (the Caesar salad is quite tasty).With friendly waiters, crayons, and speedy service, what more could you need? Kids can get a mini cheese pizza for $7.75, or a small plate of plain noodles for just $2.50.
216 King St. (at 3r d St.). & 415/546-6666. Cow Hollow: 2200 Lombard St. (at St einer St.). & 415/8854500. www.amicis.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reser vations not ac cepted. Main courses $8.25–$30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. M on–Thurs 11am–10pm; F ri 11am–11pm; Sat 11:30am–11pm; Sun 11:30am–10pm. Muni: N-Judah streetcar to the 4th and King Station, and then walk 1/2 block east on King St.
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Crossroads C afé
CALIFORNIA/BREAKF AST Just a block off the E mbarcadero, this cafe/bookshop with a fenced-in outdoor patio is a comfy hav en for a snack, lunch, and a r est. O rder tur key sandwiches, salads, smoked salmon plates, fountain treats, coffee drinks, and hot chocolate fr om the counter, and find a seat while y ou wait for your name to be called. This combined art gallery/bookstore cafe stocks a nice selection of children’s books and gifts, and ther e are a fe w couches and o verstuffed chairs to enjoy them in. The cafe makes all the desser ts and pastries itself , which y ou can enjo y with more than 47 different types of teas.
699 Delancey St. ( 1/2 block south of Embar cadero). & 415/836-5624. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $5–$8. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 7am–10pm; Sun 8am–5pm. Muni: N- Judah streetcar to the Brannan Station, and then walk south toward Townsend St.
Taylor’s Refr esher
Finds AMERICAN/HAMB URGERS This must be what diner food tasted like 50 y ears ago, when co ws still r oamed pastures and a tomato still tasted like a tomato . Eating here made me understand ho w diners got to be so popular in the first place. The hamburgers, made with local, naturally raised beef , are mouthwatering, and the sweet potato fries were a hit with my kids (I ordered them without the chili powder). Even the cherry tomatoes on the garden salad were sweet and delicate, not the tasteless, har d-skinned variety one expects at a typical diner . Then again, this diner isn’t exactly typical. The first, and still existing, Taylor’s Refresher was established in 1949 in the heart of the Napa Valley, with plenty of nearby family farms to draw on for fr esh, local ingredients. This site, housed in the F erry Building, takes advantage of the neighboring Farmer’s Market for its raw materials. D espite the gourmet touch, the food still
5 THE EMBARC ADERO/SOUTH BEACH
One Ferry Building, No. 44 (at the Embar cadero). & 415/399-0814. www.mijitasf.com. Highchairs. Reservations not accepted. Brunch main courses $6.50–$7. Lunch/dinner main courses $4–$5. Kids’ menu $2. AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 10am–7pm; Fri 10am–8pm; Sat 9am–8pm; Sun 10am–4pm. Muni: F-Market streetcar or any Market St. streetcar to Embarcadero Station.
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Value MEXICAN Tracy des J ardins, the talent behind this gem, is best Mijita known for her hyper-elegant establishment J ardiniere, which serves dinner to the blacktie set en route to the opera, symphony, or ballet. But when you’ve got kids to feed, not money to burn, this unpr etentious joint ser ving simply prepared Mexican “street food” is a great way to enjoy des Jardins’ culinary talents. Not only will you get hearty morsels like a freshly grilled fish taco with cilantro-avocado cream or a carnitas taco with crisped braised pork at amazing prices (under $5), but y ou’ll also enjo y a terrific vie w to boot. Located on the backside of the Ferry Building, Mijita looks out to the San Francisco Bay. Watch commuters catching ferries back home while y ou enjoy “queso fundido,” melted Mexican cheeses and chorizo sausage served with soft tortillas. If it’s warm enough to sit outside, let the kids run around while you take your time sipping a cold beer and munching spiced pumpkin seeds. The two kids ’ items on the shor t menu, a bean and cheese burrito or a crispy cheese quesadilla, ar e sure to draw the chicos back when the food has arrived. The amazing par t is the tiny bill. D es Jardins is dedicated to suppor ting local farmers, fisherman, and ranchers who produce food sustainably. How she manages to do that and still serve $2 kids’ burritos beats me . . . but who cares? Head back to the counter and order, “Otra cerveza, por favor!”
126 comes on trays, the music is loud, and the price is right. O n a sunny day , choose an outdoor table and order one of the aw esome milk shakes or a r oot beer float—all made with San Francisco’s luscious Double Rainbow ice cream. 1 Ferry Building (at Embar cadero). & 866/328-3663. w ww.taylorsrefresher.com. H ighchairs. Reser vations not ac cepted. M ain c ourses $4–$14. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 10:30am–10pm. Muni: F-M arket streetcar or any Market St. streetcar to Embarcadero Station.
7 NORTH BEACH EXPENSIVE
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Joe DiMaggio’s Italian Chophouse
NORTH BEACH
5
ITALIAN For a taste of old San Francisco, head to this ne w joint on the corner of Washington Park. Although it opened its doors in 2006, DiMaggio’s will transport you back a half-century. The polished decor includes deep rich mahogany walls, gener ously siz ed plush leather booths, stunning Ar t D eco chandeliers, and, best of all, hundr eds of black-and-white photographs of old S an Francisco. You’ll see photos of Joe and Marilyn (circa 1954) here, snapshots of besuited locals in fedora hats there, pictures of old baseball games ar ound the corner. The dim lighting and stately bar make D iMaggio’s feel quite adult, but the space accommodates all sor ts of diners; the booths can easily fit a family of four and then some. I’ ve seen other kids here who clearly enjoyed the experience. In keeping with the old-time theme, por tion sizes are definitely not nouv elle. While the menu contains enough new influences to keep it interesting, the servings are so generous I recommend sharing. The pork chop is large enough to feed two, and the potato gratin accompanying it measur ed a good 5 inches acr oss. Salads like the tomato salad with shaved fennel and fried goat cheese are well executed, but not exactly a “light” start to a meal. The gnocchi and smoked chicken in cr eam sauce is as rich as y ou’d expect it to be, and twice as big. Nonetheless, desserts like the dreamy Frangelico cheesecake with a rich hazelnut cream are good enough to make r oom for. 601 Union St. (at Stockton St.). & 415/421-5633. www.joedimaggiosrestaurant.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reser vations recommended. Main courses $16–$38. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5–11pm. Muni: P owellMason cable car to Union St., and then walk 2 blocks east, or no . 30-Stockton bus to Union St.
Rose Pistola ITALIAN Rose Pistola didn’t start as a family-friendly r estaurant, but perhaps its location in North Beach meant it had to get better at accommodating tourists who may have their kids in tow. That’s good news for you, as it means you can enjoy the delightful offerings at this upscale Northern Italian establishment without feeling stressed about how the staff will react to the little ones. Your bigger worry will be getting a table at this ev er-crowded hot spot, so make r eservations or arriv e early. The hot and cold antipasti may be the best thing on the menu: zucchini chips, r oasted chili and garlic shrimp, and shaved artichoke salad are among the choices. M ain courses highlight fish, pastas, and pizzas, and rotisserie grilled meats are also on offer. 532 Columbus Ave. (btw. Union and Gr een sts.). & 415/399-0499. www.rosepistolasf.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. Main courses $17–$36. AE, MC, V. Daily lunch 11:30am–4pm; Sun– Thurs dinner 5:30–11pm; F ri–Sat dinner 5:30–midnight. Muni: P owell-Mason cable car t o Union St., and then walk 2 blocks east, or no. 30-Stockton bus to Union St., and then walk 1 block east.
MODERATE
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L’Osteria del F orno
ITALIAN A perennial favorite among in-the-kno w locals, L’Osteria seems to hav e as many people lining up outside as ar e actually seated inside. Once you have gotten a table, you’ll appreciate the authentic, rustic feel in the cozy dining room. The terrific Italian dishes, which rank among the best in North Beach, include such delightful dishes as crepes filled with sautéed porcini mushrooms, ham, and béchamel sauce; and succulent skewered lamb marinated in ginger, rosemary, and garlic. If the kids are apt to be noisy, this tiny place may not be the best choice. 519 Columbus Ave. (btw. Union and Green sts.). & 415/982-1124. www.losteriadelforno.com. Reservations not ac cepted. Highchairs. Main courses $5–$19. No cr edit cards. Mon, Wed, Thurs, Sun 11:30am– 10pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–10:30pm. Closed Tues. Muni: Powell-Mason cable car to Union St., and then walk 2 blocks east, or no. 30-Stockton bus to Union St., and then walk 1 block east .
Trattoria Contadina
1800 M ason St. (at Union St.). & 415/982-5728. www.trattoriacontadina.com. H ighchairs, boost ers. Reservations r ecommended. M ain c ourses $14–$27. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun– Thurs 5–9pm; F ri–Sat 5–9:30pm. Muni: Powell-Mason cable car to Union St., or no. 30-Stockton bus to Union St., and then walk west (up) 2 blocks.
576 Union St. (btw. Stockton and Grant sts.). & 415/391-6667. No credit cards. Cups $3.25–$4.65. Sun– Thurs noon–10pm; F ri–Sat noon–11pm. Muni: P owell-Mason cable car t o Union St., and then walk 2 blocks east, or no. 30-Stockton bus to Union St., and then walk 1 block east.
Il Pollaio GRILL At Il Pollaio, located acr oss the str eet from Washington Square Park, a table by an open window, a fragrant roast chicken, and a mix ed salad speak of a gentle end to a good day. In addition to the signature chicken, you’ll also see steak, pork chops, lamb chops, rabbit, and sausages on the grill. B eyond that, Il Pollaio offers a few salads, soup , and just two sides: fr ench fries and marinated eggplant. D aily specials, consisting of roasted meat with fries and a salad, ar e the way to go.
5 NORTH BEACH
INEXPENSIVE
In addition to the options belo w, you can find a P asta Pomodoro in this neighborhood (p. 137). Gelato Classico ICE CREAM These tiny stores make gelato that’s nearly as delicious as what you might have in Rome. The gelato is so rich and creamy, it’s best had neat. But if you can’t resist going all out, ho w about the “Coppa Carmelita, ” dark chocolate and hazelnut gelato covered in a luscious caramel sauce?
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Finds ITALIAN So you brought the kids to N orth Beach and you just want a nice Italian restaurant where you can have a tasty, reasonably priced meal? And each tiny restaurant is already full and the street is jammed with other hungrylooking tourists? H ere’s a hint: G et away fr om the cr owds and star t heading up U nion Street (and I do mean “up”—the hill is quite steep) 2 blocks to this quaint, family-owned eatery. Trattoria Contadina isn’t exactly spacious, and you may still wait if you don’t have reservations, but the r estaurant does hav e more tables and a mor e welcoming feel than many of its counterpar ts on Columbus S treet. I n keeping with the ma-and-pa atmosphere, the food is hear ty and no nonsense. The linguini with co-o wner Anna M aria’s homemade Italian meatballs will take you back to your own childhood, and the spinach, meat- and cheese-filled ravioli, ser ved in a por cini mushroom cream sauce, is rich and delicious. There’s no kids’ menu, but the kitchen will happily serve up half orders at this very family-friendly trattoria.
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Sandwich Bars & Picnic Spots
NORTH BEACH
5
An urban picnic c ould be an adv enture, or at least a no velty. To start, hunt for sandwiches at Specialty’s Café and Bakery (& 877/502-2837; 505 Sansome St. at Clay St., and many other Financial District locations). Specialty’s bakes its own bread and offers deli-style sandwiches with some in ventive options such as Thai chicken and turkey curry. Want organic? Head to Soup Freaks (& 415/ 433-7687; 200 Pine St., at Batt ery St., and 90 New M ontgomery St. at M ission St.), where the soups, salads and sandwiches are made with all-natural, sustainable ing redients. Onc e y ou’ve packed y our bag , y ou’re r eady t o head t o the half-acre redwood grove by the Transamerica Building (600 Montgomery St. at Clay St.). The cool shade of the majestic redwood trees and playful sculptures will make y our picnic in this tr easured oasis ev en more enjoyable. If you’re in SoMa, stop by A G Ferrari Foods on 688 Mission St. (& 415/344-0644) to pick up delectable Italian sandwiches on fr esh focaccia bread. Then head to Yerba Buena Gardens (p. 163) for an urban retreat. Picnicking by the water may be an even better idea. Go to the Ferry Building (p. 161) on the Embar cadero and pur chase sandwiches fr om Mastrelli’s Delicatessen (& 415/397-3354). Then go out behind the building , g rab a bench, and enjoy your picnic as you watch the ferries head out across the bay. Another good picnic spot is the Justin Herman Plaza across the street from the Ferry Building, where the massive concrete arms of Vaillancourt Fountain fold over each other . At Fort Mason, pick up delicious v egetarian sandwiches like egg salad at Greens to Go (Building A, F ort Mason Center, & 415/771-6330) and then sit y ourselves under a palm tr ee on the expansiv e lawn. If you’re at Crissy Field (p. 160), g rab a soup or sandwich at the Warming Hut. You’ll find plenty of picnic spots outside. North Beach pr ovides more sources for filling y our hamper. Molinari, 373 Columbus Ave. at Vallejo Street (tel] 415/421-2337), is an I talian delicatessen with a fantastic assor tment of impor ted foodstuffs and friendly staff who will create delicious , ev erything-on-’em sandwiches t o go. Also c onsider takeout from Mario’s Bohemian Cigar Store (reviewed below). You can’t pass on dessert if y ou’re anywhere near Victoria Pastry Co., 1362 St ockton St. at Vallejo (& 415/781-2015). The chewy almond cookies are divine, as are the cakes, all sold b y the slic e or whole . You ma y be able t o find a bench in Washington Square Park if you can’t wait to dig into your lunch. Otherwise, head to North Beach Pla yground at L ombard and M ason str eets, wher e y ou’ll find picnic facilities and a playground. If you’re headed out t o Lincoln Park in the R ichmond District, a c onvenient stop is Angelina’s Bakery at 6000 California St., at 22nd Avenue (& 415/2217801). Pick up sandwiches, salads, or quiches and hop back on the no . 1-California bus to 32nd Street. Then walk north 2 blocks t o Eagle’s Point at the end of the Land ’s End trail . Enjo y y our picnic with a pric eless view of the M arin Headlands and western side of the Golden G ate Bridge.
555 Columbus Ave. (bt w. Union and Gr een sts.). & 415/362-7727. Reser vations not ac cepted. H ighchairs. M ain c ourses $12–$17. MC, V. M on–Sat 11:30am–9pm. Muni: P owell-Mason cable car or no . 30-Stockton bus to Union St.
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Mario’s Bohemian Cigar Stor e ITALIAN This corner stor efront could tr uthfully be called M ario’s Bohemian S hoebox, it’s so small. G one are the days when y ou could find a cigar on the premises, much less smoke one; instead, Mario’s has been serving big, warm focaccia sandwiches filled with meatballs or br eaded chicken cutlets, pizzas, salad, and drinks for more than 20 years. Grab a seat at the funky wooden counter and watch the waitress efficiently fill the drink or ders while the cook pr epares the food in a miniature oven. Kids will lo ve the Torani Italian syrups used to make sodas. You can also get the sandwiches to go, to enjo y them in Washington Park across the street. 566 Columbus Ave. (at Union St.). & 415/362-0536. H ighchairs, boosters. Main courses $4.50–$8.50. MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm. Muni: Powell-Mason cable car or no. 30-Stockton bus to Union St.
Naan-N-Curry
533 Jackson St. (at Columbus Ave.). & 415/693-0499. Reservations not accepted. Highchairs, boosters. Main courses $4–$10. MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–10pm; Sat noon–10pm. Muni: No. 15 bus to Jackson St. Also at 690 Van Ness Ave. (at Turk St.) & 415/775-1349.
8 F I S H E R M A N ’S W H A R F
serene r estaurant, y ou ar e transpor ted to Vietnam—or at least a mo vie set of it. The interior includes facades of a Vietnamese-style home and a F rench colonial building, palm trees, and other I ndochinese artifacts. Yet the 18-foot-high black ceiling is dotted with spotlights, as if to remind you that this is not Vietnam, but a replica of it. The food seems to follow suit. Appetizers such as crispy rolls with crab, shrimp, and shiitake mushrooms and entrees such as tournedos of beef tenderloin with onions and pepper cress are very tasty, but seem firmly gr ounded on this continent—which may be just as w ell for the little ones among y ou. Although there is no children’s menu, kids do enjo y the beef tournedos, as well as the side of garlic noodles. There are a few truly exotic options, like the luscious mango soup with durian sorbet, which is a must-have for dessert. The dinner menu edges this restaurant into the expensive category, but lunch prices are more moderate, with main courses star ting at $14.
891 Beach St. (at Polk St.). & 415/771-6800. www.anamandara.com. High chairs, boosters. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses lunch $14–$28, dinner $21–$40. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri lunch 11:30am–2pm; Sun–Thurs dinner 5:30–9:30pm; F ri–Sat 5:30–10:30pm. Muni: No . 30-Stockton bus to Polk St., and then walk 1 block nor th, or Powell-Hyde cable car t o Beach St., and then walk 2 blocks west.
5 F I S H E R M A N ’S W H A R F
EXPENSIVE
Ana Mandar a VIETNAMESE The moment y ou walk thr ough the doors of this
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Value INDIAN/P AKISTANI When S an F ranciscans want good, inexpensive I ndian/Pakistani food, they come to N aan-N-Curry. F lavorful tandoorioven-baked meats, delightful curries, a gr eat selection of v egetarian options, and plenty of naan breads are on offer here. Although some dishes can be too spicy for younger kids, we’ve found a fe w items that ev en our y oung daughters lo ve, including chicken tikka masala, which is cooked in a mild yogurt sauce, and vegetable biryani, or vegetables with rice. With a casual atmosphere and hearty portions for just pennies, it’s worth branching out from pizza, noodles, and the other usual suspects.
130 Franciscan AMERICAN/SEAFOOD It’s all about the view here, which explains the upside-down nature of this oddly shaped, peach-color ed structure. Stairs lead you from the crowded wharf below into a w elcoming dining r oom, which offers bay vie ws from practically every table. Given its location in the most heavily touristed part of town, you’ll pay more than you should for a crab cake appetiz er ($12) or slice of halibut ($26), but you do get a fabulous vista, friendly ser vice, and better far e than at most r estaurants in the vicinity. The pasta and sandwiches come in at under $20, and all kids ’ menu items are $5. The kids’ fish and chips is big enough for adults and comes with cray ons and drawing materials. I wouldn’t go out of my way to eat here, but if you want a nice lunch without having to leav e the neighborhood, the F ranciscan may be wor th the higher prices.
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Pier 43 1/2 (at Embar cadero). & 415/362-7733. w ww.franciscanrestaurant.com. H ighchairs, boost ers. Reservations accepted. M ain courses $10–$50; k ids’ menu $5. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm. Muni: F-Market streetcar to Mason St.
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5
McCormick & K uleto’s AMERICAN/SEAFOOD I’m not usually into extralarge restaurants with massive menus smack dab in the most touristy par ts of town. But this establishment, which brings well-known local restaurateur Pat Kuleto together with the nationally renowned McCormick & Schmick’s seafood restaurant chain, keeps high standards. Overlooking the lovely Hyde Street Pier, with Alcatraz in the backgr ound, it has one of the best views in all of San Francisco and is a good stand-by for visiting grandparents. The options are not especially inventive—cedar plank–smoked Alaskan salmon and griddled Parmesan-coated petrale sole are typical dishes—but they are fresh and well prepared. Although the menu is dominated b y seafood, it ’s so long that ther e are still plenty of choices for the fish-averse. The kids’ menu includes a tasty fish and chips plate that you’ll want to polish off if y our little one doesn ’t manage to . Be sure to come in daylight to enjoy the view, but don’t expect a quick meal—ser vice can be slow. 900 Nor th Point St. (bt w. Lark in and P olk sts .). & 415/929-1730. w ww.mccormickandschmicks.com. Kids’ menu, highchairs. Reservations recommended. Main courses $13–$40; kids’ menu $5.35–$7.75. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. M on–Thurs 11:30am–10pm; F ri–Sat 11:30am–11pm; Sun 10:30am–10pm. Muni: No . 30-Stockton bus t o Larkin St., and then walk 1 block nor th, or P owell-Hyde cable car t o Beach St., and then walk 1 block west.
Rainforest C afe Overrated AMERICAN The phony flo wers and plastic rainfor est complete with waterfall, aquarium, and African music in the background just cry out for a B ticket (for those of you old enough to remember how things once worked at Disneyland). The food at this mer chandised-to-the-hilt restaurant is strictly pedestrian: a little fish, a little chicken, a hamburger , a steak—something for ev eryone. With 500 seats, however, you’re going to get production-line quality. The draw here is the decor, but my suggestion is that if y ou want the fun of a tr opical storm, head for the Tonga Room at the Fairmont Hotel. There, for a lot less money, treat the kids to snacks and an umbrellabedecked drink with benign rainstorms on the half-hour . 145 Jeff erson St. (nex t t o the Wax Museum). & 415/440-5610. www.rainforestcafe.com. K ids’ menu , highchairs, boosters. Reservations not ac cepted. Main courses $11–$29; k ids’ menu $6–7. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri 11am–10pm; Sat 11am–11pm. Muni: F-M arket streetcar to Mason St.
MODERATE
Blue Mermaid Chowder House AMERICAN/SEAFOOD
Blue Mermaid offers a no-nonsense menu of cho wders, sandwiches, salads, and a fe w bigger main course options at pr etty reasonable prices. The decor plays on the r estaurant’s location in The
Cannery, with boats suspended from the ceiling, heavy wood columns wrapped in ship- 131 ping rope, and hand-painted posters depicting adv ertisements of long-gone canned fish and produce exporters. Outdoor seating in the lovely Cannery courtyard is also available. Kids’ meals, like fish sticks or hot dogs, ar e ser ved up with fr ench fries in blue beach buckets. Tip: Stick to the traditional cho wders, like the M anhattan or N ew E ngland, which are tastier than the restaurant’s much touted Dungeness corn and crab chowder. 471 Jeff erson St. (at H yde St.). & 415/771-2222. www.bluemermaidsf.com. K ids’ menu , highchairs , boosters. Reservations accepted. Main courses $9–$25; kids’ menu $6.95. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 7am–9pm; Fri–Sat 7am–10pm. Muni: Powell-Hyde cable car to Beach St., and then walk 1 block nor th.
Cafe Pescatore ITALIAN You could pr obably pay less for I talian fare a few blocks away in North Beach, but this is the whar f, after all. G iven the alternativ es, this trattoria located on one corner of the Tuscan Inn hotel looks downright appealing. Floor-to-ceiling windows open onto heated sidewalk seating, but there’s no ocean view here (the waterfront is 2 blocks away). M enu highlights include Caesar salad, wood-fir ed pizza, and plenty of pasta options. O rder simply, and y ou’ll do fine. The kids’ menu includes pasta or pizza, which kids can have plain, with sausage, or with another topping of their choice.
INEXPENSIVE
Ghirardelli Ice Cream and Choc olate Shop ICE CREAM
There’s a r eason for the ever-present line her e: Ghirardelli makes a good pr oduct. If you haven’t ever had a Ghirardelli brownie, order one under a scoop of ice cr eam. Ghirardelli Sq., 900 Nor th Point St. & 415/474-3938. www.ghirardelli.com. Desserts $5–$9. Sun–Thurs 9am–11pm; Fri–Sat 9am–midnight; Ice Cream shop opens at 10am. Muni: No . 30-Stockton bus to Larkin St., and then walk 1 block nor th, or Powell-Hyde cable car to Beach St., and then walk 1 block w est.
In-N-Out Bur ger HAMBURGERS
333 Jefferson St. (btw. Jones and Leavenworth sts.). & 800/786-1000. www.in-n-out.com. Main courses $2–$3. No cr edit cards. Sun–Thurs 10:30am–1am, F ri–Sat 10:30am–1:30am. Muni: F-M arket streetcar to Jefferson and Taylor sts. Finds ICE CREAM Although I list the G hiNorman’s Ice Cream & F reezes rardelli above, it’s not really our favorite ice creamery in the Wharf. So if you’re at Ghirardelli Square and your kids espy the long line of people waiting for chocolate sundaes, don’t despair. You needn’t spend your next hour queued up. Just point your kids downhill and start heading nor theast. As y ou reach The Cannery, you’ll see a B en & J erry’s, but keep on walking. Turn into the peaceful courtyard of The Cannery and there you’ll find Norman’s, pur veyor of delicious, locally made ice cr eam in an unhurried and friendly fashion. Norman ser ves Mitchell’s ice cr eam, the best in S an Francisco, and y ou don’t need to tr ek out to the M ission to get it. While he doesn’t carry as many flav ors as the Mitchell’s store itself, he does offer quite a few, including coconut, Kahlúa mocha cream, mango, and even green tea—all so rich and cr eamy they put other ice cr eams to shame.
5 F I S H E R M A N ’S W H A R F
Having spent my teenage y ears in California, I can tell y ou that I n-N-Out is a state wide phenomenon. F ans who insist it ’s the best fast food anywhere tell me what makes the burgers so good ar e the toasted buns, crisp lettuce, and fresh tomatoes. They also swoon o ver the extra-crisp , extra-thin fries, which ar e, in addition to a grilled-cheese sandwich, the only v egetarian option on the very short menu.
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2455 Mason St. (at North Point St.). & 415/561-1111. www.cafepescatore.com. Kids’ menu, highchairs, boosters. Reservations accepted. Main courses $8.75–$17 lunch, $9–$22 dinner; kids’ menu $3.25–$6.95. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 7am–10:30am, 11:30am–10pm; Sat–Sun 7am–10pm;. Muni: F-Market streetcar to Mason St., and then walk 1 block south.
132 And, of course, Norman gladly makes sundaes as well. But if you’re feeling adventurous, consider the Halo-Halo, a Filipino concoction made with sweet beans and shaved ice. 2801 Leavenworth St. The Cannery (Jefferson St., btw. Hyde and Jones sts.). & 415/346/3046. 1 scoop $3; 2 scoops $5.25. No credit cards. Daily 11am–10pm.; summers open daily 11am–11pm. Muni: P owellHyde cable car to Beach St., and then walk 1 block nor th.
San Francisco Crepe Cart
Finds CREPES A few of these cr epe carts are scattered about F isherman’s Wharf, but this one is my fav orite due to its location in the charming, brick-lined cour tyard of The Canner y, adjacent to a small outdoor stage. Order a ham and cheese or spinach and goat cheese cr epe, grab a table under the shade of a tree, and enjoy a quick, inexpensive meal accompanied by live music. Our kids love to listen to the jazz or folk musicians who play ther e r egularly. F or desser t, shar e a chocolate and banana or simple po wdered sugar crepe.
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The Cannery (Jefferson St., bt w. Hyde and Jones sts .). Crepes $4.50–$7.50. No cr edit cards. Daily 10am– 6pm. Muni: Powell-Hyde cable car to Beach St., and then walk 1 block nor th.
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9 C I V I C C E N T E R / H AY E S VA L L E Y EXPENSIVE
Hayes Str eet Grill
CALIFORNIA/SEAFOOD Chef-owner Patricia Unterman, the author of the Food Lover’s Guide to San Francisco, is pretty much the authority on the local culinar y scene—so it ’s no surprise her r estaurant ser ves delicious, uncomplicated dishes that showcase local, in-season ingredients. The specialty here is very fresh fish: whatever’s been caught that morning will be pr epared simply and with integrity and be accompanied with crisp , thin fries. All sauces ar e thoughtfully ser ved on the side. The non-fish selections, such as the grass-fed steak with mustard butter and balsamic onions, are equally flavorful. The atmosphere balances betw een informal and businesslike, with a clientele of politicians and pr ofessionals at lunch and ar tists and audiences eating a pr e-show dinner. At lunch, kids might enjoy eating at the bar; it’s situated in the front and commands a view of many tables and the door, so they can keep tabs on what ’s going on.
320 Hayes St. (bt w. Gough and F ranklin sts.). & 415/863-5545. www.hayesstreetgrill.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16–$25 lunch; $22–$28 dinner ; $31 prix -fixe dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm lunch; M on–Thurs 5–9pm; F ri 5–10pm; Sat 5:30–10pm; Sun 5–8:30pm; Sun–Thurs after 7:30pm prix-fixe dinner. Muni: No. 21-Hayes bus to Franklin St. or any streetcar to Franklin St., and then walk nor th 3 blocks.
Zuni C afe
CALIFORNIA/MEDITERRANEAN For nearly thr ee decades, Z uni Cafe has ser ved Mediterranean-infused California cuisine in this spacious, sunny , location. The white washed walls and two-stor y-high south-facing windo ws combine with odd angles, heavy wood, and exposed brick to giv e a casual, air y feel to the place. The eclectic, inv entive, and always delicious cuisine fr om famed chef-o wner Judy R odgers (which can also be found in her fabulous 500-plus page cookbook) changes regularly, but her signature roast chicken with bread salad is always on the otherwise very short menu. It’s no wonder this place still draws a cr owd after all these y ears. Although ther e is no children’s menu, the kitchen is always happy to whip up a special concoction. Whatever you do get for the kids, make sur e it comes with the shoestring potatoes.
1685 Market St. (btw. Gough and Franklin sts.). & 415/552-2522. www.zunicafe.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reser vations r ecommended. M ain c ourses $10–$19 lunch, $14–$39 dinner . AE, MC, V. Tues–Sat 11:30am–midnight; Sun 11am–11pm. Muni: F-Market streetcar to Gough St.
MODERATE
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Citizen C ake
BAKERY/CALIFORNIA When y ou walk into this cafe, y ou ar e faced with such a fetching array of cakes, tar ts, cookies, pastries, and ice cr eams that all thought of the food pyramid dissipates as y ou grapple with the mind-bending question: What do I choose? You can take time to figur e that out while dr ooling at the counter or sitting at one of the tables in the austere room, where ample windows keep you in touch with the street action. Brunch is a good time to eat her e, as it will give you an excuse to order their homemade donuts. B ut you’re best off making it a teatime tr eat. Lunch and dinner menus may be too esoteric and pricey for a family meal—and dinner pushes Citizen Cake into the expensive category. 399 Gr ove St. (at Gough St.). & 415/861-2228. w ww.citizencake.com. H ighchairs. Reser vations f or brunch r ecommended. M ain c ourses $10–$13 lunch, $22–$26 dinner . AE, MC, V. L unch Tues–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; dinner Tues–Sat 5pm–10pm; brunch Sat–Sun 10am–2:30pm. Muni: No . 21-Hayes bus to Gough St., and then walk 1 block north to Grove St., or streetcar to Van Ness St. Station, and then walk 3 blocks north to Grove St. and 2 blocks west to Gough St.
INEXPENSIVE
Opened by the owners of nearby Absinthe, a swanky restaurant for the pre-theater set, Arlequin ser ves the needs of hungr y shoppers, sightseers, and local merchants in search of a nice, simple lunch in a lo vely setting. Order a homemade soup , a flav orful sandwich with a gourmet touch—think r oasted chicken with tangy aioli—or a freshly made salad and head out to the surprisingly pleasant and serene garden out back . . . or at least it will be ser ene until the kids start running amok. (Well, better outside than inside.)
384 Hayes St. (btw. Franklin and Gough sts .) & 415/626-1211. Highchairs, boosters. Main items about $10. AE, V, MC. Mon–Fri 8am–8pm; Sat 9am–8pm; Sun 9am–5pm. Muni: No . 12-Hayes bus to Gough St., or streetcar to Van Ness Station.
581 Ha yes St. (at Laguna St.). & 415/864-7654. w ww.frjtzfries.com. F ries $3.25–$4.75. M ain c ourses $7–$14. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 9am–10pm; F ri–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 11am–9pm. Muni: No . 21-Hayes bus to Laguna St., or streetcar to Van Ness St. Station, and then walk 2 blocks nor th to Hayes and then east to Laguna St. Mission: 590 Valencia St. (at 17th St.) & 415/863-8272. Muni: BART to 16th St.
1 0 M A R I N A / CO W H O L LO W / P R E S I D I O EXPENSIVE
Greens
VEGETARIAN The setting is so lo vely and the food so good at this vegetarian spot, ev en dedicated carniv ores will enjoy it. Built by the San Francisco Zen Center in a conv erted warehouse, the r estaurant boasts v ery high ceilings and a wall of windows that frames a stunning view of a marina, the bay, and the Golden Gate Bridge. Come in the early evening, and you’ll be rewarded with a glorious sunset as w ell.
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Frjtz BEL GIAN FRIES/CREP ES Among the hip boutiques and antique shops of Hayes Valley is this funky teahouse specializing in fries. Thick and crispy, and wrapped in a paper cone just like y ou get on the str eets of B russels, the star chy wedges are best eaten when they ’re as hot as y our fingers can handle. The inv entive dipping sauces include kalamata-caper ketchup , miso may o, and spic-y ogurt peanut. I f you feel guilty just feeding your kids fries for lunch, y ou can order them salads, sandwiches, or cr epes, all of which are named after artists. Another location is in the M ission.
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Arlequin SANDWICHES
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One taste of the delectable offerings, and you may decide meat is overrated. Start with baked goat cheese with grilled br ead and golden beets, and follo w it with risotto with snap, snow, and E nglish peas, or y ellow vegetable curr y with cashe w jasmine rice. F or dessert, how about a warm fr uit cobbler with buttermilk ice cr eam? Vegan appetizers, entrees, and desser ts—like egg-fr ee, dair y-free chocolate mousse—ar e also av ailable. Most nights ar e a la car te, but on S aturday night a $49 four-course prix-fix e dinner is served. Some folks gripe that meatless far e should be less expensiv e, but I feel G reens’ prices are in line with vegetarian options at any upscale restaurant. If you can’t get a table at lunchtime, pick up sandwiches fr om the G reens to G o takeout counter and hav e a picnic overlooking the bay. Building A, F ort Mason (at Ba y St.). & 415/771-6222. www.greensrestaurant.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8–$14 lunch, $16–$23 dinner; prix-fixe (Sat night only) $49. AE, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Tues–Sat noon–2:30pm; dinner Sun–Fri 5:30–9pm; Sat prix-fixe dinner 5:30–9pm; brunch Sun 10:30am–2pm. Muni: No. 30-Stockton bus to Laguna St. and transfer to the no. 28 bus to Fort Mason.
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Presidio S ocial Club AMERICAN
M A R I N A / CO W H O L LO W / P R E S I D I O
5
One of a handful of r estaurants in the lo vely Presidio National Park, this old army barracks has been revamped to feel like a charming 1930’s officers ’ club . Weathered windo w shutters, potted plants and a white-washed interior provide an air y, friendly feel that makes families feel w elcome—provided they come for a w eekend brunch or early in the ev ening, before the bar fills up with adults swigging classic cocktails. The American “comfort food” menu offers plenty of options for the little ones, like fish and chips or an extra-fancy sloppy J oe’s made with American Kobe-style beef . O ther nostalgic menu items, for those so inclined, include liv er and onions or beef Stroganoff on egg noodles. Mashed potatoes, corn on the cob, and sautéed spinach are typical sides. M ore adventurous eaters can look to the appetiz er menu for inspiration; they’ll find tuna poke, steak tar tare, and ev en shrimp fritters guaranteed to be too spicy for young palates. My family and I like the Presidio Social Club for its location inside the national par k and for its fun, old-time feel. Although some menu items are quite tasty, we wouldn’t come here for the food alone.
Building 563 Rutger St. (in the P residio, just inside the L ombard Gate). & 415/885-1888. w ww.presidio socialclub.com. H ighchairs, boosters. Reser vations recommended. M ain courses $18–$23 dinner , $10– $16 brunch. V, MC, AE. Dinner Sun– Thurs 5:30–9:30pm; F ri–Sat 5:30–10:30pm; brunch Sat–Sun 10am–2pm. Muni: No. 43-Masonic bus to Lombard and Lyon sts. Walk through Lombard Gate into Presidio; restaurant uphill to the left.
MODERATE
A16
ITALIAN/PIZZA This hopping Chestnut S treet locale quickly established itself in the B ay Area’s dining scene. I t’s named after the motor way that transv erses the Italian region of Campania, home to Naples. As one might expect, A16’s most acclaimed specialty is its wood-o ven-fired Neapolitan pizza, which could blo w away y our youngsters’ pr econceptions of what pizza is all about. O rder a “ pizza marinara, ” with just tomato, or egano, garlic, and oliv e oil, and they ’ll be amaz ed that something without melted cheese could taste so good. Of course, there are mozzarella-topped pizzas as well. The rest of the menu is also impressive (and changes seasonally). Dishes like house-made fennel sausage with grilled br ead or wild salmon with basil, almonds, and lemon ar e deliciously inspired by southern Italian cuisine. For dessert, your options might include ricotta almond mousse or warm chocolate haz elnut cake. Although the menu is mor e limited at lunch, it may be the best time to bring younger children. They’ll enjoy watching the pizzas being made or drawing on the paper-co vered tables. The dinner scene is usually too noisy and grown-up for all but the hippest teenagers.
2355 Chestnut St. (btw. Scott and Divisadero sts.). & 415/771-2216. www.a16sf.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. M ain courses $6–$16 lunch, $10–$25 dinner . AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Fri lunch 11:30am–2:30pm; Sun–Thurs dinner 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm. Muni: No. 30-Stockton bus to Scott St.
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Betelnut ASIAN When you first approach Betelnut, you may ask yourself why you’ve
brought kids. The entire front of the restaurant opens out onto the sidewalk, where you’ll find trendy 20- and 30-somethings sipping cocktails and nibbling on pan-Asian appetizers. Behind them lies a long bar and, off to the right, steps leading back to a dimly lit restaurant. But despite the boister ous, bar-like atmospher e, the r estaurant is actually a very welcoming, low-key hangout that’s become a neighborhood institution. Many local families bring their kids her e regularly. The kids don’t seem to mind the dar k exterior, and the vibrant atmosphere (this is definitely a place for groups, not couples) will drown out any child whining about having spent the entir e day sightseeing. Kids all lo ve the chicken satays, but ask for the peanut sauce on the side, as it ’s mildly spicy. The Cecilia’s minced chicken in lettuce cups and the S hanghai steamed chicken dumplings ar e also a hit with the kids. If the adults want something with a little more zing, try the five-spiced firecracker shrimp.
La Terrasse
215 Linc oln Blvd. (in the P residio, bt w. M ontgomery St. and F unston Ave.). & 415/922-3463. w ww.la terrassepresidio.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. Main courses $14–$29, $8–$29 brunch. AE, V, MC, DISC, DC. C ontinental breakfast Mon–Fri 7–11am; Mon–Sat 11am–4pm and 5–10pm; brunch Sun 10am–4pm. Muni: Muni: No. 43-Masonic bus to Letterman Dr. and Lincoln Blvd.
Mamacita
MEXICAN Disregard any pr econceived notions of M exican cuisine that those Tex-Mex chain restaurants have impressed on your psyche. This hip addition to the Chestnut S treet dining scene ser ves up inventive, intensely flavorful Latin dishes prepared with top-quality ingr edients like ultra-fresh seafood, naturally raised beef , and handmade tortillas. The carnitas made with slo w-cooked pulled por k and the M exican gulf prawns sautéed with jalapenos, smoked bacon, and roasted tomato–coconut milk are luscious possibilities. The kids’ menu quesadilla is big and tasty , and the fr eshly made chips and guacamole ar e so good y ou could make a meal of them—but it would be a shame to miss the better offerings to come. Be warned: You’ll find plenty of families dining in the early hours, but Mamacita’s impressive selection of tequilas draws its fair share of margarita-swilling revelers later in the evening.
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FRENCH There’s hardly a better way to end an excursion to the Presidio than with an early dinner at La Terrasse, located in a stand-alone building within the Presidio N ational P ark. While S an F rancisco’s fickle w eather makes alfr esco dining less common than one might hope, La Terrasse offers glass walls and heat lamps to pr otect outdoor diners from chilly winds and guarantee a cozy meal. Despite a French bistro menu not created with families in mind, La Terrasse is certainly the most kid-friendly r estaurant in the Presidio and one to which w e’ve taken our childr en several times. The kids usually have wood-oven fired pizzas or the onion soup , while we adults order lighter fare like the salad Nicoise or sautéed prawns. If you’re extra hungry, the grilled hamburger with Roquefort or the rack of lamb is sur e to leave you without room for dessert. Note: The outdoor seating fills up fast, so call ahead and specifically ask to eat outside and/or arrive early, as in 5pm. Service can be slo w so, if y ou come for lunch, don ’t get fr ustrated that the meal is cutting into your afternoon sightseeing time. Either order “to go” sandwiches and picnic at Crissy Field or grab a table, order a glass of wine, and enjo y the fresh air.
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2030 Union St. (bt w. Buchanan & Webster sts.). & 415/929-8855. w ww.betelnutrestaurant.com. K ids menu, boosters. Reservations accepted. Main courses $9.50–$21. DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11:30am– 11pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–midnight. Muni: No. 41-Union or no. 45-Union-Stockton.
136 2317 Chestnut St. (btw. Scott and Divisadero sts.). & 415/346-8494. www.mamacitasf.com. Kids menu, highchairs, boosters. Reservations accepted. Main courses $10–$18; k ids’ menu $6–$8. AE, MC, V. Sun– Wed 5:30–10pm; Thurs–Sat 5:30–10:30pm. Muni: No. 30-Stockton bus to Scott St.
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INEXPENSIVE
M A R I N A / CO W H O L LO W / P R E S I D I O
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In addition to the options belo w, y ou can find an Amici ’s East Coast P izzeria in this neighborhood (p. 124). Finds CHINESE Dragon Well was established with the idea of servDragon Well ing light, fresh, flavorful, and reliably good Chinese food. It has succeeded. This is definitely west coast Chinese, the Tex-Mex of Asian food, but it’s the best rendition of it I’ve had. Traditional favorites like pork-filled pot stickers (a big hit with my kids) and cashew chicken are exceptionally well executed, and the tea-smoked duck, ser ved in a bun with plum sauce, is not to be missed. Owned b y a friendly and talented local mom, D ragon Well is pr obably the fav orite takeout destination for most local families. The interior decor—spacious and airy, in keeping with the light and healthful food—makes D ragon Well an inviting place to eat in as w ell. I’m confident everyone in your family will enjoy his or her meal at D ragon Well. 2142 Chestnut St. (bt w. Steiner and P ierce sts.). & 415/474-6888. w ww.dragonwell.com. H ighchairs, boosters. M ain c ourses $7.50–$8.50 lunch; $8–$12 dinner . MC, V. Daily 11:30am–10pm. Muni: No . 30-Stockton bus to Steiner St.
The Gr ove
AMERICAN/BREAKFAST On w eekends, families r egularly hit the Grove for lunch. With a wooded interior , an eclectic assor tment of tables and chairs, windows that open up like terrace doors, lots of plants, and plenty of outdoor seating, it’s simply one of the most agr eeable places to hang out on a sunny day . The menu is equally pleasing, with breakfast options like hot oatmeal with brown sugar and fruit or a breakfast burrito with guacamole and sour cream. Lunch options include fresh salads and unique sandwiches, like the C uban por k or the tur key with chipotle may o. Kids will enjoy the cheese quesadilla or the homemade macar oni and cheese. Another location is in the Pacific Heights neighborhood.
2250 Chestnut St. (at Alma St., bt w. Scott and P ierce sts.). & 415/474-4843. Pacific Heights: 2016 F illmore St. (btw. California and Pine sts.) & 415/474-1419. Highchairs, boosters. Main courses $7–$10. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 7am–11pm; Sat–Sun 8am–11pm. Muni: No. 30-Stockton bus to Scott St.
Mel’s Drive-in HAMBURGERS The original Mel’s was opened in 1947 on Van Ness
Avenue b y Mel Weiss. It was demolished 25 y ears later, but not befor e G eorge L ucas filmed American Graffiti there. In 1985 Mel’s son Steven opened a ne w Mel’s on Lombard Street but kept the old 1950s theme, complete with booths, chr ome, and tabletop jukeboxes. He eventually opened thr ee more San Francisco locations and a smattering elsewhere in the state. The food is nothing to write home about, but under-10s love this place—uniformed waitresses deliver their meals in car dboard Cadillacs, they can select ’50s tunes on the jukebox, and they get balloons just for stopping by. The menu includes all the typical diner options: blue-plate specials, chicken potpie, salads, humongous desserts, and all-day br eakfast. Among other M el’s locations ar e those in the S oMa and Richmond neighborhoods.
2165 Lombard St. (at Steiner St.). & 415/921-2867. Sun–Wed 6am–1am; Thurs 6am–2am; Fri–Sat 24 hr. SoMa: 801 Mission St. (at 4th St.; 3 blocks south of Union S q.). & 415/227-0793. Hours: same as Lombard
location. Richmond: 3355 Gear y Blvd. (btw. Parker Ave. and Stanyan St.). & 415/387-2255. Sun–Thurs 6am–1am; Fri–Sat 6am–3am. www.melsdrive-in.com. Highchairs, boosters. Main courses $5–$15. MC, V. Muni: No. 30-Stockton bus to Steiner St., and then walk 1 block south on St einer St.
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Osha Thai Restaurant
2033 Union St. (at Buchanan St.). & 415/567-6742. www.oshathai.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations accepted. Main courses $8–$18. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am –midnight. Muni: No. 41-Union or no . 45-Union-Stockton. Embarcadero: Embarcadero Center (at Clay and Drumm sts.). & 415/788-6742. Daily 11am–11pm. Muni: Str eetcars to Embarcadero Station. S oMa: 149 2nd St. (btw. Mission & Ho ward sts.) & 415/278-9991. M on–Sat 11am–11pm; Sun 4pm–11pm. Muni: 10- Townsend or 14-M ission bus. Mission: 819 Valencia St. (btw. 19th and 20th sts.) & 415/826-7738. Daily 11am–midnight. Muni: 14-Mission or 49-Van Ness/Mission bus; BART to 24th St. Tenderloin: 696 Geary St. (at Leavenworth St.) & 415/6732368. Sun–Thurs 11am–1am; Fri–Sat 11am–3am. Muni: 2, 3, 4, 27, 38 buses .
Families, and the good fr esh food, ar e responsible for making this locally owned chain so successful. The fare isn’t going to have you phoning home in a raptur e, but it’s cheap, healthy, and you can make ev eryone happy here with a plate of lasagna for meat-eaters, a nice linguine primav era for the v egetarian, plain capellini for the refusnik, and some sautéed broccoli because you need your veggies. The best news is that P asta Pomodoro also delivers. Should you be in a hotel without r oom service, don’t stress about taking exhausted kids out once again: Those buttered noodles are just a phone call away . You can find other locations in the N orth B each, Presidio Heights, Castro, and Sunset neighborhoods.
1875 Union St. (btw. Hyde and Larkin sts.). & 415/771-7900. North Beach: 655 Union St. (at C olumbus Ave.). & 415/399-0300. Presidio Heights: 3611 C alifornia St. (at Spruc e St.). & 415/831-0900. Castro: 2304 Market St. (at 16th St.). & 415/558-8123. Sunset: 816 I rving St. (at 9th A ve.). & 415/566-0900. www.pastapomodoro.com. H ighchairs, boost ers. M ain c ourses $7.50–$15.25. AE, MC, V. M on–Thurs 11am–10:30pm; Fri 11am–11:30pm; Sat noon–11:30pm; Sun noon–10:30pm. Muni: No . 41-Union or no . 45-Union-Stockton bus to Laguna St.
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Pasta Pomodoro ITALIAN
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Finds THAI Serving the best Thai in S an Francisco, Osha’s first location was a funky , loud-music joint in the Tenderloin, with waitresses in pigtails and hip T-shirts serving up the best Thai food in to wn to post-par tying crowds of 20-somethings. That meant we generally had to resort to getting takeout so we could order some great pad see ew for the kids (a tasty, wide-noodle version of pad Thai—with no peanuts, a plus for some kids) and luscious curries for us. While the original Tenderloin location is still ar ound, and still open until 3am on w eekends, O sha’s tasty Thai cuisine was too good to be r elegated to post-party munchers. Today there are five Osha locations around town, and the quality remains top-notch. Our favorite is the Union Street location, which has an unused garden out back. That means our daughters can chase after their y oung brother once he ’s had his fill of fried tofu, noodles, and red rice—without fear of disturbing other diners. M y husband and I can watch them thr ough the window as we linger over dishes like spicy catfish or gr een peppercorn pork. In keeping with O sha’s roots as a par tier’s destination, the sleek black and white decor is somewhat night-clubby—but we’ve always felt welcome and have seen other families ther e as w ell. Just arrive at an early-ish hour and ask for a table near the back window. (Note: I’ve listed Osha as inexpensive, since two kids can shar e a pad see ew. But if you add in the crispy spring rolls, rice, and more interesting menu options for the adults, it can tip into moderate categor y—though it’s worth it.)
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Isobune JAPANESE/SUSHI
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If you want to introduce the kids to sushi, this could be a fun to place to star t. The spicy tuna r olls, maguro tuna, and a fe w vegetarian options cruise by on little boats in fr ont of diners. See something that looks enticing? G o ahead and take it. The chefs ar e constantly at wor k, refilling the little boats on their aquatic conveyer belt. You won’t find the gr eatest selection her e, but y ou’re best off sticking to the mainstream stuff like California rolls anyway. Warning: This is one place that’s actually better when it ’s crowded. If you come at odd hours, y ou’ll see limp fish that ’s been around the loop a fe w too many times.
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1737 Post St. (in the Japan C enter). & 415/563-1030. Highchairs. Reservations not ac cepted. 2 piec es of sushi $2–$7, g ratuity not included . AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–10pm. Muni: No . 38- Geary bus t o the Japan Center at Webster St.
Juban Yakiniku House JAPANESE
Although the grill-your-own concept may not have the dramatic appeal of a B enihana’s, where the chef comes to y our table and sautés while you watch, it’s really more fun to take responsibility for your own dinner. At Juban, a gas grill embedded in the center of y our table quickly cooks thin slices of tender beef , chicken, shor t ribs, shrimp , and other items while y ou and y ours handle the cooking implements. The wait staff makes sur e the temperatur e is just so, but in any ev ent, it’s pretty difficult to r uin your dinner. Smoke is relieved by special downdraft grills. Juban is big and modern, with wide tables to hold the v arious plates of raw and cooked food, and an accommodating staff. Yakiniku, or grilling, works well for children, who can pick and choose what they like and in r easonable quantities.
1581 Webster St. (in the Japan Center). & 415/776-5822. www.jubanrestaurant.com. Highchairs. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8–$13.50 lunch; $9–$50 dinner. AE, MC, V. Fri lunch 11:30am–2pm; Sat–Sun lunch 11:30am–4:30pm; M on–Thurs dinner 5:30–9:30pm; F ri–Sun dinner 5–9:30pm. Muni: No . 38-Geary bus to the Japan Center at Webster St.
INEXPENSIVE
In addition to the options below, Pizzeria Delfina (p. 146), The Grove (p. 136), and Pasta Pomodoro (p. 137) have locations in this neighborhood. Crepevine Finds AMERICAN/CREPES This is where we take the kids on a w eekend day when we’re on the way to or from the playground and we want a place where we can get a table, or der quickly, and enjo y healthy, well-prepared food ev eryone will like. Although it’s always packed on weekends, the ambitious host works hard to gets patrons seated quickly and, giv en the restaurant’s large size, he usually does. While you wait for the table, per use the massiv e menu boar d above the counter . The crepes that giv e the place its names ar e all good—the Californian with av ocado, cheddar, and salsa is quite tasty and the kids love the simple ham and cheese combo—as are the omelets, salads, and sandwiches. The food will be served quickly, in hearty portions, and you’ll soon be fortified for more sightseeing or, should the fashion-conscious members of y our family prevail, for some boutique window shopping on Fillmore Street. Other locations are in Noe Valley and the Sunset.
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San Francisco kids have grown up with sushi, and it ’s not unusual to see sushi served at lunchtime in some of the cit y’s middle and upper schools. Even very young children in the city are used to accompanying their parents on sushi outings. For a fun Japanese dining experienc e, arrive early when the restaurant is less busy and sit your family down at the sushi bar. Your kids will love watching the sushi chef expertly patting the rice into oblong shapes and placing raw fish on top, or making artistic rolls and slicing them ever so precisely with a very big knife. Finicky eaters may prefer leaving the hamachi (yellowtail) or spicy tuna rolls to their parents and sticking to cooked shrimp or vegetarian rolls. Many sushi restaurants also serve other Japanese dishes like t empura, teriyaki chicken, or udon noodles. Don’t forget to order edamame (soybeans in the shell) to start. They’re fun to eat and healthy.
Ella’s
AMERICAN/BREAKFAST This is one of the best places for brunch in S an Francisco. Maybe that explains why the line at E lla’s usually goes w ell out the door . The menu changes frequently, but expect fresh baked breads, exceptional pancakes, and omelets with appetizing fillings like sausage, mushr oom, roasted red pepper, and Gruyère. To skip the weekend wait, come for a r egular weekday breakfast. If you just can’t come b y in the morning, lunch (think cashew egg salad on cornmeal molasses br ead) and dinner (curried lamb stew, perhaps) are also fine times to tr y Ella’s neoclassical American cuisine.
Tango Gelato
Finds ICE CREAM Like the U.S., Argentina has had its fair share of Italian immigrants and, as a r esult, has a delicious array of gelaterias. F ortunately for San F ranciscans, one enterprising Argentine made his (v ery long) way up nor th and opened a gelateria in Pacific Heights. In addition to recognizable Italian flavors like nocciolo (hazelnut) and amaretto, you’ll find luscious South American favorites like dulce de leche, an ultrasw eet caramel concoction, and coconut. You’ll also find other Argentine specialties, such as alfajor cookies.
2015 Fillmore St. (bt w. California and P ine sts.). & 415/346-3692. No cr edit cards. Small cup $3; lar ge cup $5.15. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–11pm. Muni: No. 1-California bus to Fillmore St., and then walk 1/2 block south.
2001 Thai Stick THAI The name of this place is so bad that I passed b y it for years before a friend who lives in the neighborhood assured me that the food is actually quite good, and perfect for a casual family meal. H e was right. My kids gobbled up their pad Thai and loved the spring rolls. My green curry with chicken was lightly spiced and had the smooth creaminess of coconut milk without being too rich. I t was perfect. My husband loved the pork in peanut sauce. Even better was the price.
5 J A PA N TO W N /PAC I F I C H E I G H T S /P R E S I D I O H E I G H T S
500 Presidio Ave. (at C alifornia St.). & 415/441-5669. www.ellassanfrancisco.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations accepted for lunch only, not for brunch. Main courses $8.75–$12.25 brunch, $5.50–$16 lunch/ dinner. MC, V. Mon–Fri 7am–3pm; Sat–Sun 8:30am–2pm. Muni: No. 1-California bus to Presidio Ave.
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2301 Fillmore St. (at Clay St.). & 415/922-0102. www.crepevine.com. Kids’ menu, Highchairs, boosters. Reservations accepted for parties of 8 or more. Main courses approximately $12. Kids’ menu items $4. V, MC, AE, DISC. Daily 8am–10pm. Muni: No . 22-Fillmore bus . Noe Valley: 216 Chur ch St. (at M arket St.) & 415/431-4646. Muni: Streetcar to Castro Station. Sunset: 624 Irving St. (at 7th Ave.) & 415/681-5858. Muni: N-Judah streetcar.
140 2001 Fillmore St. (at Pine St.). & 415/885-6100. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations not accepted. Main
courses $5.95–$11. Sun–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–2am. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Muni: No. 1-California bus to California St., and then walk 1 block south.
12 RUSSIAN HILL EXPENSIVE
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Antica Trattoria
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Finds ITALIAN This neighborhood fav orite is no or dinary Italian restaurant. Considered one of the best trattorie in S an Francisco, its homemade pasta dishes ar e deliciously uncomplicated, accentuating high-quality , fresh ingredients over busy, heavy sauces. The menu also varies with the time of y ear. Although you can’t go wr ong with any of the pasta dishes, including such possibilities as fettuccine with porcini mushrooms, oven-dried olives, and br own-butter sage, if y ou consider a fish or meat dish for a change y ou will not be disappointed. O ptions such as Alaskan halibut and clams in white wine and tomatoes, or thinly sliced sirloin steak with ar ugula and roasted potatoes, are delectable. If you have room for dessert, the rich chocolate cake and airy tiramisu are transcendent. The crisp white walls, warm wood furnitur e, and unpretentious decor match the elegant food per fectly. Antica has no kids ’ menu, but the kitchen is happy to ser ve a kids’ portion of hot butter ed penne with v eggies, and Vicki, the charming hostess, keeps a supply of cray ons on hand. Whenever we eat at Antica, which is frequently, we wonder why we don’t come even more often.
2400 Polk St. (at Union St.). & 415/928-5797. www.anticasf.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses $11.50–$21.50. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Thurs, Sun 5:30–9:30pm; F ri– Sat 5:30–10:30pm. Muni: No. 19-Polk to Union St., no. 41-Union, or no. 45-Union-Stockton bus to Polk St.
INEXPENSIVE
Boulange de P olk
BAKERY You used to hav e to get her e early to claim one of the outdoor tables on a sunny day, but as of this writing the Boulange de Polk is temporarily closed while it expands into the space next door. My guess is the new, larger establishment will still be packed. Indeed, this always-busy French bakery, which proudly uses organic flour in its delectable cr eations, is so popular that ev ery neighborhood seems to have a Boulange branch. Whichever location you visit, if it’s the morning and you order a cappuccino and an almond cr oissant, or a che wy baguette with sw eet butter and jam, you’ll be transpor ted to the M arais in Paris . . . at least until y our kids’ yelps yank y ou back to r eality. Lunch items include smoked salmon quiche and tartines (savory tar ts) served with salad. Kids will enjo y the chocolate cr oissants for breakfast or the ham and cheese baguette for lunch. (The original Boulange was at 2325 Pine St. Now you can find the bakeries at 1000 Cole S t., 1909 U nion St., 2043 F illmore St., and 543 Columbus Ave. in North Beach.)
2300 Polk St. (at Gr een St.). & 415/345-1107. www.baybread.com. Lunch items $3.25–$10. MC, V, AE. Daily 7am–7pm. Muni: No. 19-Polk to Green St., no. 41-Union, or no. 45-Union-Stockton bus to Van Ness Ave. and Union St., and then walk 1 block south and 1 block east.
Swensen’s Creamery ICE CREAM As is proudly advertised on its sign at the corner of U nion and H yde Streets, this is the original S wensen’s creamery, established in 1948. You won’t find the exotic flavors you get at Mitchell’s Ice Cream, but they do offer three kinds of vanilla, which may be your little one’s favorite flavor anyway. The location
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Picnic with a View
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The Powell-Hyde cable car stops a half block from ZA Pizza. Grab some slices to go and re-board the cable car for the ride to Aquatic Park. Munching on tasty slices of crisp-crusted pizza with a view of both bridges sounds like a special moment to me.
along the Powell-Hyde cable car r oute is pr etty convenient, too. Stop here for a scoop , perhaps after you’ve lunched at nearby ZA Pizza (see below), and before walking 2 blocks to crooked Lombard Street. 1999 H yde St. (at Union St.). & 415/775-6818. C ones $2.45–$3.95. No cr edit car ds. Sun, Tues–Thurs noon–10pm; Fri–Sat noon–11pm. Muni: Powell-Hyde cable car to Union St.
ZA Pizza
1919 Hyde St. (bt w. Green and Union sts .). & 415/771-3100. Highchairs. Slices $3.50–$4.50. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Wed noon–10pm; Thurs–Sat noon–11pm. Muni: Powell-Hyde cable car to Green St.
13 THE HAIGHT INDIAN This is the best Indian food we’ve found in the city. It took us awhile, and a fe w meals where our girls ate little mor e than baked naan, puffy poori bread, and rice, to find some non-star ch items on the menu that wouldn ’t be too spicy for them. The secr et is to or der cr eamy dishes like chicken korma, cooked in a mild yogurt sauce, and simply explaining to the waiter that you want no additional spice in it whatsoever. It usually works, and despite the absence of chili peppers, the dish is still so delicious that even we adults enjoy it. Other delectable dishes for grown-ups include the saag gosht, lamb with cr eamed spinach, and the wonder ful meats baked in the tandoori oven. As it’s located in the Haight, Indian Oven is a low-key spot, but it’s refined enough to include white tablecloths and v ery attentive staff who will kindly help ne wcomers to Indian cooking navigate the menu. Located on a corner , Indian Oven has two full walls of windows, making it a light-filled, w elcoming space. We like to sho w up early, before it starts to fill up, and we’ve always seen another family or two introducing their own kids to this varied and wonderful cuisine. 233 Fillmore Haight St. (at Waller St., 1/2 block south of Haight St.). & 415/626-1628. www.indianovensf. com. H ighchairs, boost ers. Reser vations ac cepted. M ain c ourses $8–$16. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5–11pm. Muni: No. 6-Parnassus, no. 7-Haight, or no. 71-Haight-Noreiga bus to Fillmore St.
5 THE HAIGHT
MODERATE
Indian Oven
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Finds PIZZA On a tree-lined section of Hyde Street along the cable car route, this is a favorite neighborhood gathering spot. Families can hang out at the counter of this tiny establishment and watch a game on TV or take a seat at one of the fe w indoor and outdoor tables. The thin-cr ust pizzas, named after luminar y characters, include the Pesto Picasso, with roasted chicken, sun-dried tomatoes, and fresh pesto; and the Popeye the Greek, with spinach and feta cheese. We eat at Z A several times a y ear, but I kno w my family would pr efer to go ev en more often. Two salads ar e also on the menu, but the house salad wins out o ver the plain-tasting Caesar.
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INEXPENSIVE
Ben & Jerr y’s ICE CREAM
I can’t think of a mor e appropriate place to indulge in this politically correct frozen delight. Ben & Jerry’s is all about social responsibility, which is clear enough fr om the unbleached r ecycled paper napkins and the pictur es of hormone-free cows grazing happily in Vermont. But it’s also about a counter-cultur e that once had its epicenter right in the neighborhood. H ow great is it to enjo y a scoop of Cherry Garcia just ar ound the corner fr om where Jerry Garcia and the G rateful Dead lived during the [‘]67 Summer of Love? And, with all those pure ingredients, it’s delicious as well.
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1480 Haight St. (btw. Masonic Ave. and Ashbury St.). & 415/626-4143. www.benjerry.com. Cones from $4.50. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun– Thurs 10:30am–9pm; F ri–Sat 10:30am–10pm. Muni: No . 6-P arnassus, no . 7-Haight, or no. 71-Haight-Noreiga bus to Ashbury St.
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Blue F ront C afe AMERICAN/BREAKF AST/MEDITERRANEAN The B lue Front’s menu is as eclectic as the upbringing of its friendly owners, three Greek Orthodox Christian br others who w ere raised in the O ld City of J erusalem. The specialties ar e Middle Eastern/Mediterranean—spit-roasted lamb gyros in pita bread and falafel wraps are among the choices—but y ou’ll find all-American tur key, club , and R euben sandwiches on the menu as w ell. The Blue Front is also a good br eakfast spot, ser ving up three-egg omelets, toasted bagels, and br eakfast wraps in M editerranean lavash br ead. The room is nothing fancy—wooden tables are close together with plenty of people reading their papers and nursing their coffees—but the huge Genie hanging out front blends in well with the colorful neighborhood. 1430 Haight St. (bt w. Masonic Ave. and Ashbury St.). & 415/252-5917. www.bluefrontcafe.com. Highchairs. Reser vations not ac cepted. M ain courses $5.25–$9.75. MC, V. Sun–Thurs 7:30am–10pm; F ri–Sat 7:30am–11pm. Muni: No. 6-Parnassus, no. 7-Haight, or no. 71-Haight-Noreiga bus to Masonic Ave.
Burger Joint
HAMBURGERS In a setting r eminiscent of a ’50s-era TV sitcom, with vinyl-covered chairs and vintage F ormica patterns on the tables, y ou can enjo y a really good burger. They’re made with naturally raised, hormone-free Niman Ranch beef and served on a bun that has enough personality to handle a juicy hand-formed patty . The only alternatives to a hamburger or cheeseburger ar e a hot dog, fr ee-range chicken breast sandwich, or v eggie burger, all ser ved with crispy fries. Yummy milkshakes and root beer floats are made with San Francisco’s Double Rainbow ice cream. Another location is in the Mission neighborhood.
700 Haight St. (at Pierce St.). & 415/864-3833. Daily 11am–10pm. V, M. www.burgerjointsf.com. Boosters, highchairs. Main courses $7–$8.50. Muni: No. 6-Parnassus, no. 7-Haight, or no. 71-Haight-Noreiga bus to Pierce St. M ission: 807 Valencia St. (bt w. 19th and 20th sts .). & 415/824-3494. Daily 11am–11pm. Cash only. Muni: Bart to 16th or 24th sts. South Beach: 242 King St. (btw. 3rd and 4th sts. across from AT&T ballpark.) & 415/371-1611. 11am–9pm. V, MC, AE. Muni: N-Judah or T-Ingleside streetcar to 2nd St. and King Station.
Crepe Express CREPES
For an afternoon snack, y ou can’t do better b y the kidlets than a thin crepe filled with Nutella and bananas and topped with whipped cream. That’s living. This very casual cafe also ser ves savory crepes, baguette sandwiches, and salads. The food is good, but the cr epes are the reason to stop here.
1476 Haight St. (at A shbury St.). & 415/865-0264. Main c ourses less than $10. MC, V. Sun– Thurs 9:30am–10pm; Fri–Sat 9:30am–11pm. Muni: No. 6-Parnassus, no. 7-Haight, or no. 71-Haight-Noreiga bus to Ashbury St.
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SHOPPING Amoeba Music 1 Books Inc. 22 Buffalo Exchange 6 Cliff’s Variety 23 Costumes on Haight 15 Crossroads Trading 8, 19 Discount Fabrics 12 Gamescape 14 Haight Ashbury Music Center 9 Kids Only 4 Mendel’s Art Supplies & Far Out Fabrics 5 Shoe Biz 7 Skates on Haight 2 The Wasteland 3
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144 Memphis Minnie’s BARBECUE If you’ve got a hankering for a tender piece of slowcooked meat, head straight to M emphis Minnie’s. The owner smokes his brisket for 12 hours and adds his o wn spice r ub for kick and flav or. Other options are finger-lickinggood ribs and succulent pulled por k. The protocol is simple: stand in line and choose your meat and two sides, such as sw eet potato or corn muffin, and hav e a seat at one of the tables lined up against the bright y ellow and r ed wall. Look ar ound at the playful decor, which includes plastic pigs, black-and-white co w-print ceiling fans, pinned up trucker hats, and pithy sayings like “N ever Trust a Skinny Cook.” You can also read the favorable newspaper clippings about Minnie’s under glass at each table. O nce your meal is ready, choose fr om one of the thr ee sauces at y our table: r ed Texan, North Carolina vinegar, and S outh Car olina y ellow mustar d. Fortunately, each table has a full r oll of paper towels on it as well. All the meat is delicious, and most of the sides, with the exception of the overly dry corn muffins, are tasty, too.
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576 Haight St. (at Steiner St.). & 415/864-7675. www.memphisminnies.com. Highchairs, boosters. Main courses $8–$20. AE, MC, V. Tues–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 11am–9pm. Muni: No . 6-Parnassus, no. 7-Haight, or no. 71-Haight-Noreiga bus to Steiner St.
THE MISSION
5
14 THE MISSION If you’re headed to or fr om any of these r estaurants at night and y ou’re not driving, I’d recommend taking a cab.
EXPENSIVE
Delfina
IT ALIAN This r enowned Tuscan-Italian r estaurant defines what ’s incredible about the city’s neighborhood eats. Every day chef/co-owner Craig Stoll, one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs a few years back, whips up a ne w menu of delectable, ultra-fresh fare. Diners trek in from all over the city for it, even though there’s absolutely nowhere to par k. (Take a cab .) The Niman Ranch flat-ir on steak with fr ench fries is a standard, but a more seasonal option might be winter gnocchi with squash and chestnuts or lamb with polenta and sw eet peas. Don’t fail to or der the buttermilk panna cotta for dessert. The yellow walls, close-together tables, and hip young clientele give this place an adult energy, so I suggest it for a night when y ou have a babysitter. An added plus is its proximity to many hopping Mission bars: If you do have a sitter, you can enjoy an hour or two out on the to wn after dinner. That said, if you absolutely want to visit and hav e the kids in to w, not to worr y. The staff is friendly and r elaxed. Moreover, chef S toll and his wife Annie ar e parents themselves and sure to be accommodating. B ut if you’re in any way concerned that the place may be too much for your kids, just head next door to Pizzeria Delfina (see below). Note: While I’ve listed D elfina in the expensiv e category, the r easonable prices almost justify listing it in the moderate categor y.
3621 18th St. (btw. Dolores and Guerrero sts.). & 415/552-4055. www.delfinasf.com. Reservations recommended. M ain c ourses $18–$26. MC, V. M on–Thurs 5:30–10pm; F ri–Sat 5:30–11pm; Sun 5–10pm. Muni: J-Church streetcar to 18th St., and then walk 2 blocks east.
Foreign Cinema
Finds CALIFORNIA/MEDITERRANEAN What sets this establishment apart from any other place in the city is its outdoor courtyard with a large exposed-cement wall onto which ar e projected foreign films, many of them O scar winners. Heat lamps keep the place cozy, and, well, it’s just an incredibly fun way to hav e a
The Mission District Dining Mun J,F,K,L,M,N Muni
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SHOPPING Buffalo Exchange 21 Lark in the Morning 24 Maddie’s Pet Adoption Center 2 Modern Times Bookstore 15 Natural Resources 23 Ross Dress for Less 3 Skechers USA 20 Sports Basement 1
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Liberty St St.
St Florida St.
Harrison St St.
ea Ave TTreat
Folsom St
Shotwell Stt
18t St 18th
St
15
20th St St.
e s Ave u h Van Ness SSouth
14
Capp C pp St
13
Mission
ENTERTAINMENT Casanova 7 The Marsh Youth Theater 19 Medjool 17 A Travelling Jewish Theatre 4
Franklin Square
4
rlos St Carlos San C
19th St St.
Cumberland Playground St.
DINING Burger Joint 13 Café Gratitude 16 Delfina 10 Dolores Park Café 9 Foreign Cinema 18 Frjtz 8 La Corneta Taqueria 22 Osha 14 Pancho Villa Taqueria 5 Pizzeria Delfina 11 Tartine 12 Ti Couz 6
Trea t Ave
Capp St. St
12
3
17th 7th St
Lex ngton Lexington
11
16th St. Station
Mariposa M i s Stt
St inda St. Linda
10
2 16th SSt
Clarion Aly. Sycamore St.
Lapidge St
Oakwood St.
Mission Dolores Park
St. 18t St 18th
5
Rondel Pl Pl.
Muni J
Dorland St.
9
8
Dearborn St.
17t St 17th
7
1
A ameda Alameda St. St
15th SSt.
B BART
Hoff St St.
Albion St St.
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Wiese St Julian ian Ave Caledonia C edon a St
6
St. 16th St Guerrero St
Chula Ln
h St 15th 15 St bion St. Albion A
Landers Lande s St
Do ores SSt. Dolores
Church St.
Mission Dolores
a St Valencia Valenc
Muni Chur h St. Church Station
eway
13th St. (under freeway)
14th St
Mission St.
M
M
Br Bay idg e
Duboce bo e Ave
145
146 meal. The overall tone of the place is quite gr own-up, with an adjoining, v ery hip bar next door. Fortunately, the chefs have a young boy of their own, who can be seen running around the courtyard in the early part of the evening. They’ve even added a kids’ menu, so arrive early and bring the childr en. Or try the weekend brunch, which is the familyfriendliest meal here. The best part of the whole experience is that the food is very good—even though this place is so cool it doesn’t need to be. Chefs/parents Gayle Pirie and John Clark are both veterans of two of the best kitchens in the B ay Ar ea, Z uni Cafe and B erkeley’s Chez Panisse. In addition to 20 different choices from the oyster bar, their seasonally changing menu may include such appetizers (“premieres”) as beef carpaccio with fried herbs, Manchego cheese, and horseradish sauce. M ain courses (“features”) could include sear ed sea scallops with heirloom tomatoes, bacon aioli, and basil sauce. Their naturally raised beef hails from Montana and most of the pr oduce is local and organic.
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2534 Mission St. (btw. 21st and 22nd sts.). & 415/648-7600. www.foreigncinema.com. Kids’ menu, high chairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16–$30; brunch $8.50–$18; k ids’ menu $7. AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 6–10pm; F ri–Sat 6–11pm; Sun 5–10pm (9pm during wint er); Sat brunch 11am– 6pm; Sun brunch 11am–5pm. Muni: BAR T to 24th St., and then walk 2 blocks nor th.
THE MISSION
5
MODERATE
In addition to the option belo neighborhood.
w, y ou can find Café G
ratitude (p . 150) in this
Finds PIZZA You’re in luck. The fact is you really want some Pizzeria Delfina excellent I talian food and y ou may ev en r emember hearing about an amazing Tuscan restaurant in the M ission district called D elfina (see above). The trouble is your kids are tired (or loud), and y ou’re afraid they just won ’t mix with a cr owd of hip diners sipping wine and talking politics over dishes like local quail with polenta. Well, now you can have your cake and eat it too. Actually, make that pizza. Delfina’s owners Craig and Anne Stoll have no w opened an irr esistible pizz eria next door to their original, and ev er-popular, restaurant. At Pizzeria Delfina, your kids may not appreciate just how fresh the tomatoes and creamy the mozzarella are on their ultra-thin crust margherita pizza, but if it’s a cheese pizza, they’re also not likely to complain. You, meanwhile, are sure to savor the “Broccoli Raab,” with rich ricotta and tangy oven-dried tomatoes, or the “Salsiccia” with homemade fennel sausage. The salads and antipasti are also impressive and, for dessert, the Bellwether ricotta cannoli is dreamy. The other great thing about Pizzeria Delfina is that, unlike at its fancy predecessor, you don’t have to call weeks ahead to get a r eservation . . . but y ou do need to show up early. Arrive before 7pm or you’ll be waiting at least an hour.
3611 18th St. (bt w. Dolores and Guerr ero sts.). & 415/437-6800. H ighchairs, boosters. w ww.pizzeria delfina.com. Reservations not ac cepted. Pizzas $10–$17. MC, V. Mon 5:30–10pm; Tues–Thurs 11:30am– 10pm; Fri 11:30am–11pm; Sat noon–11pm; Sun noon–10pm. Muni: J- Church streetcar to 18th St., and then walk 2 blocks east. P acific Heights location: 2406 C alifornia St. (at F illmore St.). & 415/440-1189. Sun–Thurs 11:30am–10pm, Fri 11:30am–11pm.
INEXPENSIVE
In addition to the options below, you can find Osha Thai (p. 137), Burger Joint (p. 142), and Frjtz (p. 133) in this neighborhood. Finds AMERICAN/BREAKFAST The setting alone, acr oss Dolores Park Cafe the street from Dolores Park with a spacious fr ont deck, would pr obably be enough to guarantee this cafe’s popularity. But it also happens to serve a terrific cafe latte, and plenty
of other tasty items, like albacor e tuna melts on whole grain br ead and N iman Ranch 147 honey glazed ham sandwiches. Breakfast items, soups, and salads ar e all worth stopping by for as w ell. Enjoy your meal in the sunshine, alongside other diners r ocking strollers or perusing the ne wspaper. An all-ages music sho w Friday nights from 7:30 to 9:30pm is a big hit with kids, but it ’s also packed, so make sur e to eat y our dinner befor e the crowds stream in. 501 Dolores St. (at 18th St.). & 415/621-2936. www.doloresparkcafe.org. Highchairs. Reservations not accepted. Sandwiches/salads $6–$8.25. M, V. Daily 7am–8pm. F ri music nights until 9:30pm. Muni: J-Church streetcar to 18th St., and then walk 1 block east.
La Corneta Taqueria
2731 Mission St. (bt w. 23rd and 24th sts .). & 415/643-7001. Highchairs. Main courses $4–$13. MC, V. Daily 10am–10pm. BART to 24th and Mission sts.
688 San Jose Ave. (at 29th St.). & 415/648-2300. www.mitchellsicecream.com. 1 scoop $2.65; 2 scoops $4.50. Credit cards only accepted on orders more than $9. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm. Muni: J-Church streetcar to 28th St., and then walk east to Guerrero St. and turn right; Guerrero St. will become San Jose Ave.
Pancho V illa Taqueria MEXICAN
This is an old standb y and one of the best taquerias in the city. The ever-present line testifies to the quality and consistency of the burritos, tacos, quesadillas, and enormous combination plates of prawns, carne asada, and chicken. The dining r oom isn’t much to look at—utilitarian comes to mind—but who cares? With a choice of meats, beans, tor tillas, salsas, and extras like sour cr eam or avocado, your eyes will be on y our plate. Portions are substantial, and a late lunch will easily serve for dinner. Baby burritos are available for smaller appetites.
3071 16th St. (bt w. M ission and Valencia sts.). & 415/864-8840. w ww.panchovillasf.com. H ighchairs, boosters. Main courses $1.35–$16. AE, MC, V. Daily 10am–midnight. Muni: BART to 16th and Mission sts., and then walk 1 block west.
5 THE MISSION
Finds ICE CREAM Mitchell’s Ic e Cr eam Getting to M itchell’s is going to require commitment on the part of anyone without a car because it’s located in the outer Mission a few blocks from the nearest streetcar line. For true ice cream lovers, however, it’s a schlep wor th your time. Beyond the ice cream’s incredible creaminess, Mitchell’s is best loved for its lengthy menu featuring seasonal fresh fruit and such unusual ice cream flavors as maíz/queso (corn/cheese) and ly chee fruit. I lo ve the av ocado, but buko (baby coconut) is hands-down the most popular flavor, with the cinnamony Mexican chocolate coming in second. E ven plain old v anilla is delicious. B e sure to elbow your way inside this small store if you arrive after dinner or in the afternoon and take a number from the dispenser by the door. If you just can’t make it out this way, a more limited selection of Mitchell’s flavors can be found at the Santa Barbara Ice Creamery on 2240 Chestnut St. in the Marina (& 415/922-6417) and at Norman’s Ice Cream & Freezes (p. 131).
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MEXICAN Taquerias abound in the M ission, so it may be useful to clarify what they actually sell, especially if y ou are not from the Southwest. They do not sell the crunchy, uniformly shaped “tacos” that break into a million pieces when you bite them, such as you find at the fast food chains Del Taco or Taco Bell. Mission taquerias sell flavorful tacos on soft corn or flour tor tillas, in addition to tostadas, enchiladas, and even plated dinners. But the biggest reason most San Franciscans come to a taqueria is for the burritos. And at La Corneta, in addition to a more colorful, spacious, and clean-feeling dining room than you find at many neighborhood taquerias, you’ll get a darn good burrito. Stand in line to choose beans (black, pinto, r efried), a filling (beef , beef tongue, chicken, pork, shrimp, vegetarian), and y our salsa pr eference (mild or hot). M ake sure to ask for guacamole and sour cream as well. After that, you won’t need to eat until tomorr ow.
Finds BAKER Y Crowds fr om far and near ar e drawn b y the smell of 148 Tartine freshly baked br ead at Tartine, considered by many to be the best baker y in S an Francisco. You could be forgiven for forgoing dinner and simply dining on a loaf of oven-fresh walnut bread, which comes out of the oven after 4pm and sells out quickly. If the walnut bread is gone, all is not lost: Tartine also has some wonder ful toasted sandwiches and plenty of other mouthwatering baked goods to choose fr om.
600 Guerrero St. (at 18th St.). & 415/487-2600. www.tartinebakery.com. No reservations. Sandwiches $8.25–$9.75. AE, MC, V. Mon 8am–7pm; Tues–Wed 7:30am–7pm; Thurs–Fri 7:30am–8pm; Sat 8am–8pm; Sun 9am–8pm. Muni: BART to 16th St., and then walk w est to Guerrero St. and 2 blocks south.
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Finds CREPES This stylish standout star ted as a tiny cr eperie featuring Ti Couz Norman buckwheat crepes, which come ser ved in folded squar es. Combinations of fillings ar e suggested, but diners ar e also fr ee to choose fr om such options as sausage, smoked salmon, mushrooms, or goat cheese. For dessert, fillings include fruit, chocolate, and ice cream. The soups and salads are also top-notch. The place got so popular that it soon expanded to include the neighboring stor efront. On sunny days, put y our name down and wait for an outside table.
T H E C A S T R O & N O E VA L L E Y
5
3108 16th St. (btw. Guerrero and Valencia sts.). & 415/252-7373. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations not accepted. Crepes $2–$8. MC, V. Fri–Mon 11am–11pm; Tues–Thurs 5–11pm. Muni: BART to 16th and Mission sts., and then walk 1 1/2 blocks west.
1 5 T H E C A S T R O & N O E VA L L E Y MODERATE
Lovejoy’s Tea Room AFTERNOON TEA
Crowded with settees, chairs, lace-co vered tables, and br eakfronts holding teapots and china cups, Lo vejoy’s has successfully brought a bit of old E ngland across the pond. Tea here is much less formal than hotel teas, and cheaper, so plenty of moms and childr en celebrate quality time o ver a cuppa without waiting for a special occasion. Crustless tea sandwiches come with cream cheese and apple, r oast beef with horseradish, S tilton cheese with pear , and other v ery British combinations. Raisin scones are served with clotted cream and jam, and there’s always a selection of sweets. The tea selection is bountiful, but children have the option of drinking cocoa, and jelly sandwiches ar e served with the Wee Tea. If you like the chair y ou’re sitting on or the teacup fr om which you’re sipping, go ahead and buy it. Lo vejoy’s doubles as an antiques store, and everything is for sale. 1351 Chur ch St. (at Clipper St.). & 415/648-5895. www.lovejoystearoom.com. Reser vations r ecommended. Light tea $14; high tea $17; Queen’s Tea $22; Wee Tea $13. MC, V. Wed–Sun 11am–6pm (kitchen closes at 5:30pm). Muni: J-Church streetcar to 26th St. to Clipper St.
INEXPENSIVE
In addition to the option belo w, you can find a P asta Pomodoro in this neighborhood (p. 137). Chow AMERICAN The raw ingr edients in the kitchen include organic and local produce and naturally raised meats. The end product on your table is flavorful, appealing comfort food. From chicken potpie to spaghetti and meatballs, the food her e resembles something grandma might cook up . . . if she liv ed on an organic farm and had a hightech kitchen. If you’re in the mood for something a bit more exciting, wood-fired pizzas, delicious grilled meats, and a mor e inventive ethnic-inspired entree or two ar e also on
offer. With wooden floors and wainscoting, dar k green walls, and close-together tables, 149 the overall ambience is comfortable—albeit crowded. With desserts like ginger cake with pumpkin ice cr eam and caramel sauce, and do wn-home prices to boot, it ’s easy to see how this place stays so popular. 215 Church St. (at Market St.). & 415/552-2469. www.chowfoodbar.com. Kid’s Menu, Highchairs, boosters. Main courses $4–$9 br eakfast (weekdays only); $4.50–$11 brunch (w eekends only); $7–$14 dinner . DISC, MC, V. Sun– Thurs 8am–11pm; F ri–Sat 8am–midnight. Muni: F-M arket or J- Church str eetcar t o Church St. Station, and then walk 1/2 block south on Church St.
16 THE RICHMOND & SUNSET EXPENSIVE
Cliff House Bistro AMERICAN
MODERATE
Aziza
MOROCCAN Attention to detail is the watchword at this North African oasis nestled in the city’s most multicultural neighborhood. The arched ceilings, Moroccan lamps, hand-painted Arabesque plate ware, and traditional M oroccan dishes will transport you to a distant continent. The food is lo vingly prepared using local, organic ingredients. The bastilla, saffr on-braised chicken and almonds baked in phyllo dough and dusted with powdered sugar and cinnamon, is out of this world. It takes 25 minutes to prepare, though, which may be too much of a wait for tir ed, hungry kids. Everyone will be pleased with the classic “couscous Aziza”: vegetables, grilled chicken, prawns, and spicy lamb sausage on a bed of steamed couscous. Grown-ups may opt for the Moroccan spiced prawn tagine, and kids will enjo y the chicken br ochettes—made with naturally raised poultr y, of course. The lighting is muted and the mood gets mor e adult as the evening wears on, so plan on arriving early if y ou have younger kids. That said, families
5 THE RICHMOND & SUNSET
1090 Point Lobos Ave. (Geary Blvd. turns int o Point Lobos Ave. west of 48th A ve.). & 415/386-3330. www.cliffhouse.com. H ighchairs. Reser vations not ac cepted. M ain c ourses $8–$17 br eakfast; $13–$27 lunch; $13–$28 dinner . AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun– Thurs 9am–9:30pm; F ri–Sat 9am–10pm. Muni: No . 38-Geary bus to 48th Ave., and then walk 1 block or transf er to no. 18–46th Ave. bus.
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Come here for the vie w and the histor y. The Cliff House building sits on a bluff o verlooking the Pacific Ocean, with vie ws to the nor th, west, and south. Moreover, it boasts a rich history. Three U.S. presidents visited the first 1863 Cliff House before it was destroyed by fire. In 1886 local millionaire Adolph Sutro built the second Cliff H ouse, but 11 y ears later it, too, burned do wn. In 1909 S utro’s daughter built the third Cliff House, which was eventually acquired by the National Park Service. In late 2004, the Cliff H ouse reopened following a $19 million r enovation. A stylish modern wing featur es an expensiv e r estaurant, Sutro’s, wher eas the mor e traditionally styled side of the building houses the mor e casual Cliff H ouse Bistro. Both r estaurants boast breathtaking views. The Bistro’s decor, with old-fashioned tile flooring and mor e than 200 photographs of bygone movie stars, is charming. The menu is the least impressive part of the experience. In my book $27 is a lot for a crab Louie, especially when it ’s too salty. But in fact the view is so priceless, it may well be worth it. Just be sure to come during daylight hours and stick to simple dishes like fish and chips, which are pretty good and, at $16, tolerably expensiv e. A smar ter option may be to or der a scramble, F rench toast, or even a salad off the breakfast menu, which is less pricey and available daily until 3:15pm.
150 dining on Friday, Saturday, or Sunday nights always stay past 7pm, when the belly dancer arrives.
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5800 Geary Blvd. (at 22nd Ave.). & 415/752-2222. www.aziza-sf.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $17–$26. MC, V. Wed–Mon 5:30–10:30pm. Muni: No. 38-Geary bus to 22nd Ave.
THE RICHMOND & SUNSET
5
Café Gratitude VEGAN Those eschewing meat in the family and the merely curious may enjoy trying out Café G ratitude. Here, it’s about more than all-vegan, mostly raw, food. I t’s about an entir e life attitude. The unusual philosophy her e is called “B eing Abundance” and it ’s pr esented none-too-subtly. Tables featur e the “ Abounding Riv er” board game, and you don’t just order a plain salad. It’s the “I am Dazzling” Caesar salad, the “I am P rosperous” tr opical salad, and the like. P izzas ar e made using buckwheat sunflower-seed sourdough flatbread topped with B razil nut Parmesan; fruit juices come with names like “I am S ucculent;” and the o verly relaxed service might make y ou start glancing at your watch. But you can play the board game while you wait and sip on the tasty, if pricey, “I am E ffervescent” ginger ale. The Thai coconut soup—ahem, I mean the “I am Thankful” Thai coconut soup—is a good choice, as is the “I am A ccepting” sushi bowl with kale, cukes, and av ocado. Teens interested in alternative cuisines might be impressed with lunch at Café Gratitude, but be prepared to pay for their appreciation, since a large fruit juice costs $8 and the entr ees are all $15. 1336 9th Ave. (at Irving St.). & 415/683-1346. www.cafegratitude.com. Highchairs. MC, V. Daily 10am– 10pm. Muni: N- Judah str eetcar t o 9th A ve., then walk nor th. M ission: 2400 Harrison St. (at 20th St.) & 415/830-3014. Daily 9am–10pm. Muni: 12-Folsom/Pacific or 27-Bryant bus, or BART to 16th St.
Park Chalet AMERICAN Opened in A pril 2004, the P ark Chalet has the best outdoor dining ar ea in the city . Located on the gr ound floor behind the G olden Gate Park Visitor’s Center, it opens onto a lo vely garden framed by the park’s tall trees. With a glass ceiling, r etractable glass walls, a stone fir eplace, and upscale furnishings, it feels like a European countryside restaurant. The menu is essentially American, though, featuring classic salads, sandwiches, and meat dishes like barbecue por k ribs or shepher d’s pie. The most inv entive options are the individual pizzas, such as one with wild mushrooms, roasted garlic, goat cheese, tr uffle oil, and thyme. O n weekends, you may ev en find a “brunch pizza,” topped with artichoke, pancetta, mushrooms, and poached egg. If the Dungeness crab B enedict is on offer , you’re in luck. Kids get their o wn menus and crayons. Once your little ones have polished off their cheese pizzas or corndogs, let them run around on the well-tended lawn while you finish your meals in peace. There’ll be lots of other kids out there as well. 1000 Gr eat H wy. (bt w. F ulton St. and Linc oln Way). & 415/386-8439. w ww.beachchalet.com. K ids’ menu, highchairs , boost ers. Reser vations r ecommended on w eekends. M ain c ourses $10–$17 lunch, $10–$24 dinner; kids’ menu $5.25. AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–9pm; F ri–Sat 11am–11pm; Sun 10am– 9pm. Muni: No. 5-Fulton, no. 31-Balboa, or no . 38-Geary buses, or N-Judah streetcar and transfer to no. 18–46th Ave. bus.
Pizzetta 211
Finds PIZZA When you arrive at this miniscule stor efront on an otherwise residential street far from downtown, you’ll feel like y ou’ve come upon a hidden gem. You have. The cozy pizzeria, with but a handful of indoor and outdoor tables, serves up thin-crust, wood-oven-fired pizzette from a weekly changing menu. Whenever possible, organic pr oduce, dair y, and grains ar e used to make delectable, crispy pizzas with inspired toppings like oven-dried San Marzano tomatoes, prosciutto, and local goat cheese, or r oasted cauliflower, garlic, and br ead crumbs. Salads and I talian desserts are also available. This is gourmet stuff , and the staff takes itself seriously , so at dinner time
remind the kids that normal pizzeria behavior does not apply—especially if you’re seated 151 indoors. A better option is to come for lunch after a morning hike at Land ’s End and sit outside. 211 23rd Ave. (at California St.). & 415/379-9880. Reservations not accepted. Individual pizzas $9–$14. No credit cards. Mon 5–9pm; Wed–Fri lunch noon–2:30pm, dinner 5–9pm; Sat–Sun noon–9pm. Muni: No. 1-California bus to 23rd Ave.
INEXPENSIVE
309 Clement St. (at 4th Ave.). & 415/387-2147. www.burmasuperstar.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations not ac cepted. M ain c ourses $8–$16. MC, V. Sun– Thurs 11am–3:30pm and 5–9:30pm; F ri-Sat 11am–3:30pm and 5–10pm. Muni: No . 2- Clement or no . 38- Geary t o 5th A ve., and then walk 1 block north to Clement St.
1200 9th A ve. (at Linc oln Way). & 415/750-2614. . Highchairs. Salads/sandwiches $5.50–$14. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 9:30am–4:30pm. Muni: N-Judah streetcar to 9th Ave., and then walk nor th on 9th Ave. into the park or no. 44-O’Shaughnessy bus to Concourse Dr.
Giorgio’s P izzeria P IZZERIA Many S an Francisco par ents consider G iorgio’s the most kid-friendly r estaurant in to wn. I f y ou like old-fashioned thin-cr ust pizza with traditional toppings like pepper oni or mushr ooms and sausage, ser ved up in surr oundings that might resemble a pizzeria from your own childhood (think red vinyl booth seats and red-and-white-checkered oilcloth tablecloths), then this is the place for y ou. Every Wednesday from 4 to 6pm is “Kids ’ Happy Hour”: Kids can or der any mini pizza and make it themselves for $12. Giorgio’s also has deals for lunchtime childr en’s parties, and there always seems to be one taking place. You’ll find a few pastas on the menu, too .
5 THE RICHMOND & SUNSET
Finds CALIFORNIA This is our fav orite lunch spot in G olden de Young Cafe Gate Park. Beyond inventively prepared soups, salads, and sandwiches—such as a Thai beef sandwich with ginger r oast beef, lemon grass, and sw eet soy sauce—you can also enjoy tasty grilled options like fish tacos with cilantr o-lime slaw and hot items such as pasta puttanesca or Dungeness crab cakes. The food is made with seasonal, local ingredients, most of which is produced, raised, or farmed within 150 miles of the cafe. The kids might enjoy the PB&J, pointedly made with organic peanut butter, or the Niman Ranch hot dogs. Although the offerings are appetizing, the cafe’s best asset is its location within the de Young Museum, where it’s open to all visitors. On sunny days, you can sit outside by the sculpture garden. A sesame chicken salad is always nice, but a sesame chicken salad next to a Henry Moore sculpture is terrific.
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In addition to the options belo w, both M el’s D rive-in (p . 136) and P asta Pomodoro (p. 137) have locations in this neighborhood. Finds BURMESE Here’s a reason to trek out to the Richmond Burma Superstar District. Amid the Korean, Turkish, Indian, Chinese, Russian, Mexican, and many other ethnic restaurants crammed into a few short blocks this little Burmese gem is my absolute favorite. The tea leaf salad is all the rage among those lucky enough to kno w about this small and nearly always packed establishment, but what r eally makes my kids’, and my, mouths water ar e dishes like the nan g yi dok , B urmese rice noodles and chicken in a creamy coconut curr y sauce with just a hint of spice. A dults may like the chili-tossed shrimp or sesame beef , and even the finickiest eater will go gaga o ver the slightly sw eet coconut rice and the incr edibly rich platha, pan-fried layered bread. Burma Superstar is hugely popular at lunchtime, so if y ou can’t get a table, consider or dering takeout and heading out to the P residio for a picnic. ( Walk north on 5th A ve. for 3 blocks or driv e into the Presidio on Arguello St., which is 4 blocks east of 4th A ve.).
152 151 Clement St. (at 3rd Ave.). & 415/668-1266. www.giorgiospizza.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reserva-
tions not accepted. Minipizza $12; large pizza $14.50–$26. MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am– 11pm. Muni: No. 2-Clement, no. 3-Jackson, or no. 4-Sutter bus to 3rd Ave.; or no. 1-California bus to 3rd Ave., and then walk 1 block south t o Clement St.
Park Cho w AMERICAN Just like Cho w, its sister r estaurant in the Castr o, P ark Chow balances good ingr edients, a liv ely atmosphere, and good v alue to deliv er a tr uly happy meal. Please see the Chow review on p. 148.
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1240 9th Ave. (btw. Irving St. and Lincoln Way). & 415/665-9912. www.chowfoodbar.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reser vations not nec essary. Main courses $6–$16.50. MC, V. Sun–Thurs 8am–10pm; F ri 8am– 11pm. Muni: N-Judah streetcar to 9th Ave., and then walk 2 blocks nor th toward the park.
THE RICHMOND & SUNSET
5
Finds CHINESE/DIM SUM Perhaps the most popular place for dim Ton Kiang sum in S an Francisco, Ton Kiang star ts getting cr owded about half an hour after the doors open on weekend mornings. So come during the w eek, arrive early, or, better yet, try to r ound up enough people—eight or mor e—to make a r eservation. We’re always calling up friends at the last minute to join us because dim sum at Ton Kiang is best enjoyed with lots of people at a large, r ound table. S ervers come b y with fr eshly made batches of shrimp dumplings, pork buns, crisp-steamed vegetables, and other tiny treats, which they place on a big lazy Susan in the middle of the table. Save room for dessert— the walnut cookies, custar d pancakes, and mango pudding ar e all divine. S omething about the communal dining experience makes my kids more adventurous than usual, and there really isn’t an item our normally choosy eaters don’t like. That may explain why the upstairs dining r oom, where you’ll probably end up , is always packed with families. I f you can think of any r eason to head out this way—perhaps y ou’re off to the Legion of Honor or plan to walk on O cean Beach—do so. Tip: They don’t have booster seats, so try stacking one chair on top of another .
5821 Geary Blvd. (btw. 22nd and 23rd aves.). & 415/387-8273. www.tonkiang.net. Highchairs. Reservations only f or par ties of 8 or mor e. Main courses $10–$26; dim sum $2.50–$5.50. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 10am–9pm; Fri 10am–9:30pm; Sat 9:30am–9:30pm; Sun 9am–9pm. Muni: No . 38-Geary bus to 22nd Ave.
Troya TURKISH As I mentioned at the start of the chapter, I’m always on the lookout for dining options where parents can try new foods that kids will also enjoy. And anytime you serve something on a stick, pr ovided it’s not overly spicy, kids are bound to like it. So it is with Troya, a casual Turkish eatery in the heart of the Richmond District’s ethnic food zone. I wouldn’t head to the Richmond expressly for this restaurant (as I would for Burma Superstar), but if you happen to be in this neck of the woods and want to expand your kids’ culinar y horiz ons, sit y ourselves at Troya and or der them the mix ed kabob platter or the lamb chops on couscous. A dults can opt for mor e creative dishes. Typical starters include stuffed grape leav es, calamari stuffed with spinach and goat cheese, or grilled sardines on watercress. The dining room is not large, but the tile floors, big glass windows, and basic wooden tables giv e it a simple, air y feel that will make families feel welcome. 349 Clement St. (at 5th Ave.). & 415/379-6000. www.troyasf.com. Highchairs. Main courses $13.50–$16. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5pm–9:30pm; Fri–Sat noon–10pm; Sun noon–9:30pm. Muni: No. 2-Clement or no. 38-Geary to 5th Ave., and then walk 1 block nor th to Clement St.
Exploring San Francisco with Your Kids San Francisco attractions fall into
three categories. F irst ar e those that ar e specifically designed for kids, such as the Exploratorium and the B ay Ar ea D iscovery Museum. Most of the ones I’ ve listed in this chapter are of such high quality, or in such a scenic setting, that par ents will take pleasure in them as w ell. Second are attractions not specifically gear ed to kids, but that childr en would sur ely enjo y. Quite a few fall into this categor y, including riding the cable cars or str olling through bustling, colorful Chinatown. Third ar e those attractions that may fascinate par ents, but that y ounger kids will pr obably find a yawn. F ortunately, there aren’t too many of these. O nly a few indoor attractions will r equire a lev el of restraint beyond some kids ’ abilities. F ortunately, on w eekend days many local museums offer dr op-off ar t activities for kids. In other instances, y ou may be able to strike a deal with the little ones, wher e an hour (or less) of their patience can be immediately rewarded with a kid-friendly
activity. The California P alace of the Legion of Honor has nearby hiking trails, the de Young Museum is right in fun-filled Golden Gate Park, and the S an Francisco Museum of M odern Ar t is adjacent to Yerba B uena G ardens and its childr en’s activities. In fact, the biggest challenge y ou may face on y our S an F rancisco v acation is prioritizing amongst all the options. M y best advice is to slow down and not try to do everything, particularly if you’re traveling with very young children. Where possible, work in times for the kids to r est or play. P lan the big stuff in the morning, when everyone has mor e energy, and sav e afternoons for mor e leisur ely pursuits. Above all, be flexible. If energy levels have suddenly dr opped off , be r eady to head back to the hotel—or to the near est playground. As with much in life, less may be more. F ortunately, S an F rancisco is so lovely that just par king y our family b y a grassy knoll and having a picnic could be a worthy activity in itself.
Tips F ueling the Troops Vacationing in a city is hard work, especially with small children. Keep them going with regular feedings, something healthy mid-morning and something more fun mid-afternoon. If you end up with dinner reservations after 7:30pm, bolster the kids around 5pm with a little snack so that they don ’t collapse in a heap waiting for supper.
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St Judah St.
1
The Cannery 28 Chinese Cultural Center 36 Conservatory of Flowers 13 The Contemporary Jewish Museum 43 Crissy Field 7 de Young Museum 11 Exploratorium/ Palace of Fine Arts 17
incoln Way Linco
14
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INNER SUNSET
7th Ave
OUTER SUNSET
Dr 13
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9th Ave
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ther King, Jr. Dr
25th Ave
St Irving St.
F. Kennedy
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19th Ave
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6th Ave
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34th Ave
36th Ave. Ave
43rd Ave
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St ia St. ornia liforn Calif C
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GOLDEN GATE NATIONAL RECREATION AREA– THE PRESIDIO
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101
Baker Beach
PACIFIC OCEA N
Ocean Beach
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Major San Francisco Sights
Lin co ln
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e. s Av ssu Parna UCSF Med. Ctr.
Ferry to Angel Island and Bay Cruise 25 Fort Point 6 Ghirardelli Square 27 Golden Gate Bridge 5 Golden Gate Ferry 38 Hyde Street Pier 21 Japanese Tea Garden 10 Koret Children’s Quarter 14 Land’s End 4
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FISHERMAN’S WHARF 23
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Pier 33 (Ferries to Alcatraz)
PIER 39 25
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s n St. Jefferso 34 Beach St. t St. GOLDEN OLDEN GATE 20 28 30 in 19 29 North Po NAT’L N T’L REC. AREA– 27 Bay St. Th FORT MASON Ghirardelli 31 e Gh rardell Coit NORTH 32 Square S uare THE MAR MARINA NA Tower 18
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Powell-Mason Cable Car Turnaround 31 Ripley’s Believe it or Not 30 San Francisco Art Institute 32 San Francisco Fire Department Museum 16 San Francisco Museum of Modern Art 45 The San Francisco Zoo 1 SS Jeremiah O’Brien 23 Stow Lake & Boathouse 8
o Ave Potrero
THE MISSION M SSION
POTRERO HILL
The Strybing Arboretum and Botanical Gardens 9 Top of the Mark 39 USS Pampanito 24 Wax Museum 29 Westfield San Francisco Centre 41 Zeum 46
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Lombard Street 33 Marina Green & Wave Organ 18 Maritime Museum 19 Metreon 42 Mission Dolores 15 Musée Mécanique 22 Museum of the African Diaspora 44 Powell-Hyde Cable Car Turnaround 20
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101 St. ia St enccia Val V len
THE CASTRO
Church St
St. 14th St . St t ke St. ar 16th St 15 M
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Corona Heights Park St. 17th St
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HA GHT LOWER HAIGHT Buena Vista Park
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Transbay Terminal
Yerba Buena 41 42 Gardens TENDERLOIN 46 Center . St . Moscone St et t. Turk St. ate Ave. rk on rd S . . a G i n de s ol G St M a is St CIVIC 40 w M on ris Ho lsom r CENTER Ha SOMA Fo HAYES M RKET) t. (SOUTH OF MARKET) VALLEY S nt 6th ya St Br . . Haight St
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WESTERN ADDITION San Francisco
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. Kearny St . Grant Ave . o kton St Stoc
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San Francisco Bay
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1 T H E TO P AT T R AC T I O N S Alcatraz Island
Ages 10 and up. S panish for “ pelican,” Alcatraz was so named in 1775 by Juan Manuel Ayala for the birds that nested there. From the 1850s to 1933, the militar y used Alcatraz as a for t to pr otect the bay ’s shor eline. I n 1934, the government converted it into a maximum-security prison to house the countr y’s most hardened criminals, including Al Capone, “Machine Gun” Kelly, and Robert Stroud (the Birdman). G iven the sheer cliffs, frigid waters, and tr eacherous curr ents, the Alcatraz prison was considered inescapable. I first tour ed Alcatraz when I was 12, and nev er forgot it. S tories of escape attempts and the harsh conditions on the island fascinated me. F amilies today will be no less moved by the audio tour, which features narration by former guards and prisoners. One story details ho w over several weeks three prisoners patiently enlarged the air v ents in their cells with spoons and crafted dummy heads that appear ed to be sleeping so they could escape o vernight undetected. You even get to see the dummy heads, a detail my kids enjoyed. Another story details a gruesome shoot-’em-up escape attempt, which may be the par t teenage bo ys most enjo y. The audio tour giv es a wonder fully rich and eerie sense of what it was like to be isolated in the middle of the bay—with unforgiving winds blustering through the barred windows and armed guards pacing the gun galley—yet so achingly close to the beautiful city of S an Francisco. With such a captiv ating histor y, it’s no wonder Alcatraz has been the subject of so many Hollywood movies, including Birdman of Alcatraz, Escape from Alcatraz, and The Rock. My bet is that most young kids will enjoy the trip, which after all starts out with a fun ferry ride acr oss the bay, although par ticularly sensitive children could get spooked by some of the audio tour ’s eerier details. Wear jackets (it ’s quite brisk out on the bay) and comfortable shoes—you’ll be doing lots of walking. The ferry sells snacks, but y ou may want to bring some munchies along because the whole trip could take up to 2 1/2 hours. Also, reserve for Alcatraz well in advance. I recommend booking the earliest ferry possible—the island will be less cr owded and your kids more energetic. In addition to doing the audio tour of the cell block, those visiting during fall and winter can view an orientation video about the island itself and tour the grounds outside the prison on a walking path. ( The trail is closed during bir d-nesting season from midFeb to early Sept.) Older kids who don’t frighten easily might enjoy the spooky “Alcatraz After Hours” tour. The ferry departs at 6:15 and 7pm during the summer; at 4:20 and 5:10pm in winter. Tours are Thursday through Sunday only. (Fares for the evening tour are $33 for adults, $31 for seniors 62-plus, $32 for kids 12–17, $20 for kids 5–11.)
Pier 41, at Fisherman’s Wharf, the Embarcadero. & 415/981-7625 for information and tickets. www.nps. gov/alcatraz f or inf ormation or w ww.alcatrazcruises.com f or tickets . A dmission (includes f erry): $26 adults, $25 seniors 62 and older , $16 childr en 5–11, fr ee children 4 and under . Audio $8 adults , $5.50 children 11 and under and seniors . Daily in wint er 9:30am–1:55pm; daily in summer 9:30am–3:55pm. Ferries run appr oximately ev ery half-hour. Arriv e 30 min. bef ore f erry depar ture in summer ; 45 min. before in winter. Muni: F-Market streetcar; Powell-Mason cable car; or no. 30-Stockton bus, which stops 1 block south.
Angel Island
All ages. Some weeks before writing these words I watched Angel Island, the Bay’s largest island, ablaze from my home office window. Probably caused by a campfire, in late 2008 to wering flames burnt mor e than half of the isle ’s 740 acr es. Fortunately, the fire did not claim any historic buildings from Angel Island’s rich past. It has served as a M iwok Indian hunting and fishing gr ound; a por t for S panish, British,
Yerba Buena Gardens
Jessie St St.
St. Patrick’s Jessie Church Square
To California Historical Historic l Society Ar Museum & Cartoon Art
Mission St. Fifth & Mission Parking Garage
Westin Hotel
Contemporary Jewish Museum
3rd St
Museum of Craft and Folk Art (MOCFA)
Stevenson Steve so St St. one way
4th St
Marriott Hotel
Yerba Buena Lane
(pedestrians only)
one way
City College Downtown Center
To Market Street
Oche Wat W t Te Ou/ Reflections R flections
Yerba Buena Center C nter for the Arts Gallery
Butterfly Garden
ESPLANADE
Metreon
Stage
East Garden arden Sh p Sculpt Ship Sculpture
S n Francisco San Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA)
W Hotel Moscone os Center t N North th (entrance) Howard St.
one wayy
one way
one way
Carousel Moscone Center South ZEUM
Bowling Center
St. l Folsom
Moscone Center Ballroom
Ice Rink
one way
Golden 101 Gate Bridge 1 PACIFIC OCEAN
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Bay B Bridge
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6 T H E TO P AT T R AC T I O N S
Martin i Luther t er King King, JJr. M Memorial i l Yerba Buena Shaking Man M nter for the Arts Center Sister City Gardens Theater
Moscone Center West
St. Regis Hotel/ otel/ Museum of the African Diaspora
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To Market Street
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Tips
Planning
Ahead
You must r eserve Alcatraz t our tickets at least 2 w eeks in advanc e in the summer. C all & 415/981-7625 to pur chase them o ver the phone , or buy them online at w ww.alcatrazcruises.com. The What-to-Do-While-Waiting-forthe-Ferry-to-Alcatraz Quiz: 1. In what bay is Alcatraz Island located? a. Marin Bay b. San Francisco Bay c. The Bay Area 2. When was Alcatraz a federal maximum-security prison? a. 1934 to 1963 b. 1893 to 1964 c. 1920 to 1973 3. Which one of these people was a famous Alcatraz inmate? a. Mack the Knife b . Fred Flintstone c . Al Capone 4. How big was the average cell? a. 5 by 9 feet b. 10 by 12 feet c. 4 by 6 feet 5. How many prisoners were executed at Alcatraz? a. 3 b. 0 c. 8 6. Which three men managed to escape Alcatraz but were never seen again? a. The Ringling Brothers and Marshall Pickford b. Bobby Carson, Al Capone, and Danny Marsh c. Frank Morris and the Anglin Brothers
and Mexican ships; and a pre-Civil War U.S. military base. From 1910 to 1940 it was a detention center mainly for Asian immigrants. The China Co ve station at this “E llis Island of the West” r ecalls an era when anti-immigration policies placed hundr eds of Chinese into for ced detention for w eeks, months, and sometimes y ears. Poems car ved into barrack walls by lonely detainees were rediscovered in 1970 and inspired the preservation effort. In recent years, Angel Island has drawn hikers and bikers who spend the day picnicking on the island and tr ekking on its many trails, befor e summiting 788-foot-high Mount Livermore to take in stunning views of San Francisco and Marin County. As this went to press, Angel Island was open with restricted access; visitors could still explore the historic sites and take a tram or S egway tours on the 5-mile path that cir cles the island. Those 1-hour motorized tram tours are usually offered between March and November,
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8. What was the highest number of prisoners held a t Alcatraz? a. 325 b . 302 c . 208 9. What was the lowest number of prisoners held at Alcatraz? a. 222 b . 105 c. 97 10. How long did the average prisoner stay? a. Life sentence b . 8 years c . 25 years
12. Approximately how many tourists visit Alcatraz each year? a. More than 2 million b. More than 1 million c . About 750,000 Answers: 1) b 2) a 3) c 4) a 5) b 6) c 7) b 8) b 9) a 10) b 11) c 12) b
but it would be best to phone & 415/897-0715 or check www .angelisland.com for details. Hopefully bikes, which can be br ought in by ferry or rented on the island, w ere not permitted to return. Angel Island A ssociation, P.O. Box 866. & 415/435-1915 or 415/435-3972. w ww.angelisland.org. Segway tour info: & 415/897-0715, www.angelisland.com. Access to Angel Island is b y ferry from Pier 41. Daily Blue & Gold Fleet round-trip tickets, which include state park fees, are $15 adults, $9 children 5-11, free children 4 and under . Phone & 415/773-1188 or visit w ww.blueandgoldfleet.com for tickets and schedules. Open daily 8am to sunset year-round.
Cable Cars All ages. These beloved wooden icons, the only mo ving landmarks in the National Register of Historic Places, are not the most practical mode of transportation in San Francisco, but they are certainly the most fun and a delightful par t of any first-time visit to the city.
6 T H E TO P AT T R AC T I O N S
11. What was the nickname prisoners gave Alcatraz? a. “The Island” b . “The Cage” c . “The Rock”
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7. How many cells were there? a. 455 b . 336 c. 90
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As the story goes, in 1869 British-born engineer Andrew Hallidie observed a team of overworked horses pulling a heavily laden carriage up a steep , rain-swept San Francisco hill. One horse slipped and the car rolled back, dragging the other horses and everything else down with it. Right then H allidie resolved to create a mechanical device to r eplace these beasts of burden, and by 1873 the first cable car traversed Clay Street. The cars have no engines. Instead, a steel cable is housed just under the str eet in a rail, kind of like an inside-out train rail. Powered by electricity, this cable constantly moves, or runs, through the rail—making a distinctiv e clickity-clacking sound. Each cable car has a lev er that when pulled back, closes a pincer-like grip on the cable. The person who pulls the lev er is thus called a “gripper,” not a driver. The cable car is then attached to the cable that runs through the rail under the pav ement, and the car begins to mo ve at a constant 9 1/2 mph—the speed at which the cable is set to trav el. As electric str eetcars and buses became mor e economical, S an F rancisco’s may or planned in 1947 to do away with the fe w cable cars still ar ound. Alarmed, a gr oup of private citiz ens lobbied successfully to sav e the city ’s thr ee r emaining cable car lines. Between 1982 and 1984, the city completely r efurbished these lines and seismically r etrofitted the Cable Car Barn on Mason and Washington streets. The Powell-Hyde line is the most scenic, passing crooked Lombard Street before heading down Russian Hill towards Ghirardelli Square and offering a br eathtaking vista of Alcatraz and the S an F rancisco B ay. U nfortunately, the wait for this r oute, and the Powell-Mason line, is seemingly interminable. S olutions are to catch the car early in the morning or after dinner. Another option is to take the California Street line, which runs through Chinatown and over Nob Hill, as lines to board the cars are a bit shorter. Powell at Market or California at Market sts. Tickets $5 one-way; $11 for an all-day pass. $1 one-way with a Muni weekly; free with a Muni monthly pass; free with a Muni Passport and for children under 5. Hours of operation are 6am–1:30am.
Crissy Field All ages. A 4-year effort converted this abandoned U.S. air field into a lovely national park, and it is a wonderful retreat for the whole family. My husband and I take our kids her e regularly, as well as any visitors who come into to wn. The kids can climb all over the grassy knolls or play at the beach while the adults sav or the spectacular views of the Golden Gate Bridge to the west and the San Francisco skyline to the east. There’s nothing specific to “ do” here, so ther e’s a chance teens will find it boring. For everyone else, the spot is so r elaxing and beautiful, it ’s well worth a visit. The 100acre site has a tidal marsh, sheltered picnic area, bike path, walking path, cafe, bookstore, and education center. You can pass thr ough here on a hike to F ort Point, or just come for lunch at the Warming Hut. Located at the park’s western end, the Warming Hut has a great gift shop and a tasty, organic cafe menu developed with input from renowned chef Alice Waters of Berkeley’s Chez Panisse. Crissy Field Center, Building 603 on the c orner of Mason and Halleck sts. & 415/561-7690. www.crissy field.org. Center pr ogram offic es Tues–Sat 9am–5pm. Crissy F ield Center C afe and Warming Hut daily 9am–5pm. Muni: no. 28-19th Ave., no. 29-Sunset, or no. 43-Masonic bus.
Exploratorium All ages. S ome time ago Scientific A merican magazine described the E xploratorium as “ the best science museum in the world. ” Most y oung visitors would still agree. The cavernous space, a former airplane hanger, is crammed with displays that encourage vie wer par ticipation. The exhibits ar e thematic, with matter examined near the entrance, examples of momentum and iner tia by the cafe, light and optics at the r ear, and biology and electricity on the mezzanine. Clearly written text
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describes each exhibit, and sev eral teens v olunteer as “ explainers” to help out the most 161 science-challenged among us. Even with the explainers’ help, kids younger than 6 may not grasp the science behind each of the 650-plus exhibits. B ut they’ll still lo ve fiddling with a machine that makes sand patterns with sound wav es, a camera that photographs y our shadow, or a massiv e soap-bubble maker. My older kids can easily spend a day her e—more hours than I can handle. Given the dim lighting and ev er-present crowds, this stimulating envir onment could overwhelm some, even as it enthralls others. B ecause most exhibits ar e hands-on, kids will be pushing, pulling, or doing whatev er it takes to hav e a go at some nifty contraption. If your little ones can’t fend for themselv es, don’t hesitate to tell big kids their turn is up. They usually politely step aside. You can take your toddler to the under-4s play ar ea for a break, but it seems a shame to spend too much time ther e, since it just has blocks and other items y ou’d find at any preschool. B etter to step outside to the Palace of F ine Ar ts grounds that house the Exploratorium. The only r emaining str ucture left of the 1915 P anama-Pacific Exposition, the lovely domed Palace and its adjacent grass and pond ser ve as the backdr op for many a w edding photo. Near the back of the museum is a cafe wher e you can pick up items for a picnic outside, including peanut butter sandwiches, free-range chicken salads, and hot dogs made from naturally raised beef. (An espresso stand at the entrance also sells coffee, ice cr eam, and cookies.) O lder kids will r eally enjoy the Tactile Dome, where participants crawl, slide, and slowly walk through the dome in complete darkness, feeling 6 their way along a variety of surfaces. Reservations are required in advance, and you must buy a separate, pricey $17 ticket. P hone & 415/561-0362 for times and tickets.
Ferry Building Marketplace
All ages. San Franciscans have a thing about food—especially local, organic, and naturally raised food—so it’s no surprise that a building devoted to gourmet fare should be considered a major attraction in its o wn right. It helps, of course, that the historic 1898 building underwent a 4-year, multi-million-dollar renovation (completed in 2003), and that it is located on the pictur esque Embarcadero, with lovely views of the Bay Bridge and East Bay hills. The best time to visit is early on Saturday morning, before half of San Francisco arrives for its weekly shopping spree at the Ferry Building Farmer’s Market. There you’ll find booths featuring organic fr uits and v egetables, ar tisan cheeses, naturally raised meats, fresh bread, and so on. You could make a meal out of the free samples doled out by proud farmers and cooks, but it ’s worth holding back so that y ou can buy br eakfast from one of the restaurant trailer cars in back. Purchase your scrambled eggs with wild mushrooms, fresh tamales, and choriz o, or soft shell crab on sour dough, and enjo y it on a bayside bench with a view of the ferries going to and fro. Kids will also enjoy the musicians who come by on Saturday mornings to entertain shoppers and earn some change. A smaller v ersion of the mar ket occurs on Tuesdays. Even on non–farmers ’ mar ket days, the building ’s scenic location, historic ar chitecture (including a 240-ft. clock tower), and collection of upscale food shops—featuring ev erything fr om top-quality olive oil and rar e-breed meat to ex otic funghi and handmade chocolates—make it w ell worth a visit.
T H E TO P AT T R AC T I O N S
Palace of Fine Arts, 3601 Lyon St. at Marina Blvd. & 415/397-5673. www.exploratorium.org. Admission $14 adults; $11 seniors , students with ID , and y outh 13–17; $9 childr en 4–12; fr ee for children under 4. Tactile Dome $17. F ree first Wed of ev ery month. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. Closed on M ondays ex cept Memorial, Labor, President’s, and Martin Luther King, Jr. days. Closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. Closed Dec. 24 at 3pm. Muni: no. 30-Stockton bus.
E X P LO R I N G S A N F R A N C I S CO W I T H YO U R K I D S
162 One Ferry Building . & 415/291-3276 (Farmer’s M arket) or 415/693-0996 (F erry Building). w ww.ferry
T H E TO P AT T R AC T I O N S
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buildingmarketplace.com. F ree admission. F erry Building M on–Fri 10am–6pm; Sat 9am–6pm; Sun 11am–5pm. F armer’s M arket Sat 8am–2pm; Tues 10am–2pm. Closed major holida ys. Muni: F-M arket streetcar.
Lombard Street
All ages. My family and I lived near the “crookedest street in the world” (actually a 1-block-long section of an other wise unremarkable avenue) for more than 5 years, and I still don’t get why car
