DK Eyewitness Travel Guide: Cuba

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Eyewitness TRAVEL

CUBA

beaches architecture carnival nightlife scuba diving music nature Preserves museums restaurants hotels rum The guides that show you what others only tell you

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

CUBA

E YE WITNESS TRAVEL

CUBA

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Primary school children in Santiago de Cuba

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

Callejón de Hammel, famous for its exotic and colourful murals

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Introduction to the Region

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A group of musicians improvising a concert in Parque Céspedes, Santiago de Cuba

Summit

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Detailed Information on Each Sight

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Road Map F4.

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The Visitors’ Checklist

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Río Miel, flowing through virtually virgin tropical forest between Baracoa and Boca de Yumurí

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Viewing Haiti from Punta Maisí, at the eastern-most tip of Cuba

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp266–9 and p283

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Santiago de Cuba. Carretera del Morro, km 7,5. Road Map F4. Tel (22) 691 569. 8am–7pm daily.

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STAR SIGHTS

View of the Bay Central Square For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp266–9 and p283

Plataforma de la Punta (morrillo, or bluff)

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THE BAY OF SANTIAGO $065,. .+-'44065*8'450(5*'%'/53'0(#/5+#)0#5 5*''/&0(5*'#33'5'3#63<45+%#8*+%*&'41+5'+54/#.'+4 #3#5*'31003-:.#+/5#+/'&53#((+%(+--'&30#&+4#3+/#6/5# 03&#30.*'3'('33+'4%3044 07'350#4.#--+4-#/&+/5*' .+&&-'0(5*'$#:*+4+4#:0 3#/.#*0.'50#1+%563'426' (+4*+/)7+--#)'.#&'610( .6-5+%0-063'&*654#/&4.#-- *064'4$6+-50/1+-'4*+4 +4-#/&+4#1'#%'(6-1-#%'0((5*' $'#5'/53#%,8+5*0/-: 0/'3'45#63#/5#/&#$6/&#/5 )3''/'3:;#)00&1-#%'503'-#9 View of Cayo Granma from +/#/&306/&0(( the Carretera Turística #7+4+550#/5+#)0&'6$#

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INTRODUCING CUBA

DISCOVERING CUBA 1011 PUTTING CUBA ON THE MAP 1213 A PORTRAIT OF CUBA 1433 CUBA THROUGH THE YEAR 3437 THE HISTORY OF CUBA 3853

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%!58 243 24 /56%!5!.$ 2%3/24;!3%22!:!3;7(),% 7%347!2$4(%)%22!$% /$%2.)34"5),$).'3(% Hotel Nacional )3! <2'!./3!2%345$$%$7)4( -5343%%!3)34(%Plaza de ;&!.4!34)#,)-%34/.% la Revolución &/2-!4)/.3#%.4%2%$/.4(% .4(%/543+)243/&4(%#)49 Valle de Viñales 4(%"%!#(%3/&Playas del

,3/!#%.42%/&4/"!##/ Este !.$4(%Finca 02/$5#4)/.4()36!,,%9/&&%23 La Vigía ;2.%34 4(%-/3415).4%33%.4)!,/& %-).'7!93 5"!.(/-%; 5"!.,!.$3#!0%3 !2%7%,,7/24(!6)3)4!3)3 María la Gorda Exuberant carnival scene in the 4(%!215%)34?2)#/),)4!2 !44(%7%34%2.4)0/&5"! streets of Havana /22/!"!>!).4(%Castillo )3!02)-%$)6%3)4%&&4(% #/!34!2%4(%)3,%3/&4(% del Morro HAVANA 2#()0)=,!'/$%,/3!.!22%/3 3()--%2).'7)4('/2'%/53 • Fascinating museums WESTERN CUBA "%!#(%3%2%4(%"%34 • Habana Vieja $)6).').!,,5"!!7!)43/&& 4(%3/54(7%344)0/&4(%Isla • Superlative scenery • Captivating nightlife • Valle de Viñales de la Juventud • Evocative fortress 7(),%Cayo • Lush tobacco fields 6)"2!.4/.#%#/3-/0/,)4!. • Islands and beaches Largo $2!73 #!0)4!,#)494%%-).'7)4(()3 6)3)4/237)4()43345..).' )4(30%#4!#5,!2,!.$3#!0%3 3!.$3!.$45215/)3%7!4%23; 4/2)#"5),$).'3!.$)22%3)34)",% !,,52%!6!.!"/!343$/:%.3 4/"!##/&)%,$3!.$#(!2-).' 4(%/.,90,!#%).5"!4/ /&3)'(43/&).4%2%34!6)"2!.4 4/7.34(!4%6/+%!3%.3%/& !,,/7.5$%35."!4().' .)'(4,)&%!.$#!2.)6!,3!.9 3)'(43!2%#/.#%.42!4%$). Habana Vieja 4(%#/-0!#4/,$#)49#%.42%$ !2/5.$#/"",%$0,!:!3!.$ #(!2!#4%2):%$"9)30!.)# .$!,53)!.!2#()4%#452%(% ,!:!$%,!!4%$2!,)3352 2/5.$%$"9 4(#%.4529 !2)34/#2!4)#"5),$).'3!.$4(% %,%'!.4#!4(%$2!,7(),%4(% ,!:!$% 2-!3(!3!342/.' /,/.)!,&%%, Centro Habana ).#,5$%34(%!2%!!2/5.$ 4(%!215%%.42!,7)4(4(% The fertile Valle de Viñales with limestone mogotes in the background

Mural on the corner of Calle Heredia and Calle Clarín, Santiago de Cuba

!.$Las Tunas ;!.$!&/524(;Camagüey 7)4(2%34/2%$ #/,/.)!,0,!:!34(!4!2% 2%$/,%.4/&9%34%29%!2 EASTERN CUBA • Carnival in Santiago de Cuba • Basilica del Cobre • White sands of Guardalavaca • Pre-Columbian sites

)24(0,!#%/&"/4(4(%).$% 0%.$%.#%!.$2%6/,54)/.!29 The enchancting casco viejo (historic core) of Trinidad -/6%-%.43 2)%.4%!34()3 2%')/.)3+./7.!"/5.$3). 6)3)4/23"54(!3!.%6/#!4)6% -/.5-%.43!.$-53%5-3 CENTRAL CUBA – WEST -53%5-/.4(% 30/. !.9!2%).Santiago de Cuba 4(% 3/2%$).6!3)/.Santa Clara • Parque Nacional Zapata #,!)-3!./4(%2 -/34 &2)#!./&5"!.#)4)%3 7)4().30)2).'!2#()4%#452% • Revolutionary museums &!3#).!4).'2%6/,54)/.!29 • Famous resort of Varadero -53%5-7(),%#,/3%"94(% !.$!6)6!#)/5330)2)4"%34 %80%2)%.#%$$52).'5,93 • Fireworks battles in Remedios #/,/.)!,4/7./&Remedios )3"%346)3)4%$!4 %8#)4).' !2.)6!, )4(4(%#/5.42934/0"%!#( (2)34-!3&/2)43 )3)4/23!2%!,3/$2!7.4/ &)2%7/2+3"!44,% )4(! 2%3/24!.$,!2'%34.!4)/.!, 5"!3-!).0),'2)-!'%3)4%; Basilica del Cobre 0!2+0,53)-0/24!.4-53%5-3 342/.'2%.#((%2)4!'% Cienfuegos 7)4()4334!45%/&4(%",!#+ (/./2).'2%6/,54)/.!29 &%!452%35.)15%!2#()4%#452% !$/..!;!.$4/Parque (%2/%34()32%')/.)35"! Baconao ! !4)43-/346!2)%$ )4(! ")/30(%2%2%3%26% ',/2)/53"%!#(Varadero 4(!4!,3/#/.4!).3!.5.535!, -!+%3!&).%"!3% CENTRAL CUBA – EAST 2!.'%/&!442!#4)/.3&2/- • Gorgeous beaches $/,0().3(/734/!.!.4)15% • Trinidad’s historic centre #!2-53%5-5"!3"%34 • Flamingoes at Cayo Coco 02%/,5-")!.3)4%3!2% ,/#!4%$(%2%4//.%!24(% • Lush Sierra Escambray 2%3/24/&Guardalavaca 2).'%$4/4(%./24(!.$3/54( 7)4()43#2%3#%.4 "9/&&3(/2%)3,%34()32%')/. 3(!0%$"%!#(!.$).Baracoa 4(%#/5.4293 #,!)-34(%-/34!442!#4)6% "%!#(%3).5"! /2!,2%%&3 /,$%34#)497()#(%.*/93! !.$7!,,3%$'%4(%)3,%302/ 30%#4!#5,!2,9,53(3%44).' 6)$).'4!.4!,):).'/00/245.) (% Sierra Maestra 4)%3&/2$)6).'!.$4/0./4#( 4(%3%44).'&/2!342/3 '5%22),,!(%!$15!24%23)3! 30/24&)3().' Cayo Coco )34(%-/34$%6%, "%!54)&5,.!4)/.!,0!2+ Pink flamingos at the Parque /0%$)3,%7)4(!7)$%#(/)#% Nacional Zapata /&,58529!,,).#,53)6%(/4%,3 (%"%!54)&5,,902%3%26%$ &/27!4%230/243%.4(53)!343 4/7./&Trinidad !.$&/2%80,/2).'4(%4/7.3 )34(%,/6%,)%34/&5"!3 /& Matanzas

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INTRODUCING

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CUBA

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UNITED STATES C/F

Washed by the Atlantic Ocean, the Caribbean Sea and the \ f A/[ P R T Ct\y> waters of the Gulf of Mexico, Cuba is the largest island in the A y -H K-1 L j ^ > Greater Antilles, situated just south of the Tropic of Cancer. It lies only 180 km (112 miles) from Florida and 210 km (130 miles) from Mexico, while Haiti and Jamaica are slightly less than 80 km (50 miles) and 140 km (87 miles) away, respectively. Cuba is not a single island, but a varied archipelago with a total surface area of 110,922 sq 1 (42,815 sq miles). Lying on an east-west axis, the main island, the elongated Isla Grande, is about 1,250 km (776 miles) long, and 100 '" km (62 miles) wide on average. Around it are five archipelagoes: Colorados, Sabana, Camagiiey, Canarreos and Jardines de la Reina, consisting of thousands of cayos (keys and small islands). The largest minor island is Isla de la Juventud. Cuba has about 11 million inhabitants, 2,500,000 of whom live in Havana, the capital. j 3 \os

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Chatting outside the front door, a typically Cuban habit Students outside their school, illustrating the diverse ethnic mix of the Cuban population

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Playing dominoes, a national past time

THE LIFESTYLE

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1 *(1(5$/ 8%$16 $5( 287*2,1* 7$/.$7,9( $1' 62&,$%/( !+( '2256 2) THE POLITICAL SYSTEM 7+(,5+286(6$5($/:$<623(1$*/$66 !+( 35(6(17 2167,787,21 2) 7+( (38%/,&2)8%$$33529('%< 2) 580 25 $ &83 2) &2))(( ,6 3(5&(172)927(56,18%$3(23/( 7+(5( )25 $1<21( :+2 3$66(6 %< 72 6$< +(//2 &$1927($77+($*( 2) $1' &+$7 !+(5( ,6 12 :$635208/*$7(',1 1 9$5,286 $0(1' &/($5&87 %281'$5< 0(176 :(5( ,1752'8&(' %(7:((1+20($1'7+( ,1&/8',1* *8$5$17((6 )25 675((7 3(23/( 7$/. 72 )25(,*1 ,19(670(176 620( 21( $127+(5 )520 7+(,5 )/(;,%,/,7<,1)25(,*175$'( %$/&21,(6 25 )520 7+( 025( 5(/,*,286 )5(('20 67(36 25 3$9(0(17 ,1 A trio of musicians playing in the street $1' 7+( ,1752'8&7,21 2) )52172)7+(,5+286( !+(:+2/('$<&$1%(63(172876,'( ',5(&7(/(&7,21%<81,9(56$/68))5$*(2) 7+$1.6 72 7+( 3(5(11,$/ 7523,&$/ '(387,(6727+($7,21$/66(0%/<!+( 6800(5 (23/( 63(1' $ /27 2) 7,0( 2167,787,21 67$7(6 7+$7 8%$ ,6 $ 287'2256&+$77,1*3/$<,1*'20,12(6 62&,$/,67 5(38%/,& :+26( 6835(0( )/,57,1* &<&/,1* $5281' 7+( 675((76 %8==,1* :,7+ & 2 / 2 8 5 9 2 , & ( 6 $ 1 ' 6281'6256,03/<6,77,1* 86,&,6(9(5<:+(5($1' ,67+(628/2)7+(,6/$1' (/2',& 7+$1.6 72 7+( 3$1,6+ +(5,7$*( $1' '<1$0,&'8(727+(+<3 127,=,1*5+<7+02))52 8 % $ 1 3 ( 5 & 8 6 6 , 2 1 5(/,*,286 $1' 3$66,21$7( $7 7+( 6$0( 7,0( 086,& ,6 $ 9,7$/ 3$57 2) '$,/< /,)(/,.('$1&(9(17+( 60$//(67 8%$1 72:1 A 15-year-old girl preparing for her debut in society

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Fidel Castro, the Líder Máximo, during a rally in Plaza de la Revolución

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Waving Cuban flags at a rally

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Boxing training in a Havana gym

Javier Sotomayor, the gold medallist in the high jump in the 1992 Olympics at Barcelona

SPORTS

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*'7$#021'6+%1.?57+..@010%' .+-'0'&*+50#6+8'+5.#0&61#)4''0 %41%1&+.'9+6*';'51(5610'#0& 9#6'40#'4+#.8+'9917.&5*19 6*'+5.#0&564'6%*+0)176+06*' #4+$$'#0'##0&+0&''&%18'4'& A land crab, a 9+6*8')'6#6+10#0&2#66'40'&9+6* marsh inhabitant 4+8'45/#..+5.#0&5#0&%14#.4''(5 .+',7561((5*14'+06*'52#4-.+0)$.7'5'#06*'+06'4+14 6*'.#0&5%#2'+58'4;8#4+'&(41/2.#+051(4'&'#46*61 6*'!!%$176%41251(!+B#.'5(41/&'5'46%#%67561 6412+%#.(14'56416'%6'&4'5'48'5/#-'72

2'4%'06 1(6*'0#6+10#.6'44+614;*'4'#4'07/'417552'%+'5 (170&10.;107$#$760121+510175%4'#674'5

Coral reefs, with their own distinct ecosystem (see p147)

MOUNTAINS *'/156+/2146#064#0)'5#4'6*'+'44#&' .15>4)#015616*'6*'+'44#&'.5%#/ $4#;+06*'%'064'#0&6*'+'44##'564#61 6*'5176*'#56*'.#66'4+57$#524+0%+2#. 4#0)'#0&+0%.7&'5+%17437+01 /

(66*'*+)*'562'#-+06*'%17064;*' 5.12'5#4'%18'4'&9+6*(14'5651(&'%+&7175 64''52+0'5#0&6412+%#.2.#065#0&$;%1(('' #0&%1%1#2.#06#6+105

PLAINS 4'#51(2.#+01%%746*417)*1766*'+5.#0& $76#4'2#46+%7.#4.;24'8#.'06+06*'%'064#. 4')+105=6*'2418+0%'51(#6#0<#5#0%6+ 2A4+675#0&#/#)C';=#0&+06*'+0#4&'. A1#4'#*'.#0&+5('46+.'#0&2.#06'&9+6* 57)#4%#0'2#./64''5/#0)1'5#0&%+6475 (47+614.'(6#5)4#<+0).#0&(14%#66.'

Carpintero

The tiñosa!#%&#)

The cattle egret

#" %#$% & !# %(!!"# ( $%$ %#%#& $

The cartacuba 1&75

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!!($#* !($ $! $%$ !%%!$$%&#) "!& !%#$ ! %!($$

The so-called gulf fritillary The tocororo&

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$! ! $"$! &%%#) & !&% ! (# %!%$

FLORA *'7$#0.#0&5%#2'+5%*#4#%6'4+<'&$;6*'/#0;8#4+'6+'51(2#./ 64''$" 61)'6*'49+6*6*'2+0'+06*'/1706#+0175#4'#5 #0&6*'%'+$#5+06*'2.#+05*')#&9+6*.#4)'-)4''0 #0&5+.8'4;.'#8'5+5#.519+&'524'#&*4'' +/2146#06*#4&911&5#4'/#*1)#0;%' #0&&2.#5*'51(%1.174#4'#&&'& 616*'.7:74+#06)4''08')'6#6+10$; (.19'4+0)*+$+5%75$17)#+08+..'##0& !)+ 41;#.21+0%+#0# 7/'417552'%+'51(14%*+& )419*'4'#59'..#5/#4+215# 7$#50#6+10#.(.19'4 The ceiba tree, sacred to Pre-Columbian peoples

MARSHLANDS *'5176*'402#461(6*'+5.#0&+02#46+%7.#4 *#5/#0;.#)1105#0&/#45*.#0&51(6'0 &+56+0)7+5*'&$;/#0)418'59#/25#0&+5 4+%*+0$+4&.+('*'/156+/2146#06#4'#+5 6*'+@0#)#59#/2&'"#2#6#+06*' 2418+0%'1(#6#0<#5$"

A flamboyán (royal poinciana)

The mariposa, the national flower

TROPICAL FOREST *'#)C##4#%1#/1706#+04#0)'+0#56'40 7$#70&'46*'+0(.7'0%'1(0146*'#5664#&' 9+0&5+510'1(6*'/156$+1.1)+%#..;&+8'45' #4'#5+06*'#4+$$'#0'4'6*'*'#8; 4#+0(#..241&7%'56*+%-8')'6#6+10 The tiny zunzuncito%

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Pink flamingoes'

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Buteogallus anthracinus gundlachi

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The black anolis

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Mangroves

'!" %#%#!!% $)$%& # (%#$%% $&%$'#$ # !#$ $

The Polymita picta

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%""!.!*0.!(%#%+*/+!4%/0%* 1/0$!.!/1(0+"%0/ $%/0+.5 +0$0$! 0$+(%%/)+"0$!,*%/$ +*-1!.+./* 0$!1(0/%),+.0! 50$!".%* /(2!/$2!/1.2%2! $!)+/03% !/,.! +" 0$!".%*"%0$/%//*0!.;(/+((! !#( ! $*+. !.0+!(!0+3+./$%,0$!%.#+ / !/,%0!0$!,!./!10%+*+"0$!,*%. /+.1 /(2!/+.%#%*((5".+)%#!.%)!.#! 0$!%.#+ / % !*0%0%!/3%0$!.0%* 0$+(%/%*0/2!.0$!5!./ 0$!03+.!(%#%+*/$2!()+/0!+)!(!* ! 1.! 0$+(%%/)0+ 5%/*+03% !/,.! .!(%#%+* %* 13$%(!/*0!.;%//+/0.+*#(5"!(00$0%0 %/*%),+.0*0,.0+"0$!*0%+*(% !*0%05

The batá, ! & # # % (

The crown of Changó, the king of the orishas

Rituals

#% $ ( ! % ! % ! " # Fresh fruit, including bananas, Changó’s favourite

Santeros and babalawos

( ! ! % ! $% " ! !

Agogó0. %0%+*( .00(!/)./ * !((/.!,(5! 3$%(!#.!!0%*# 0$!#+ /

AN ALTAR FOR CHANGÓ (0./.!/!01,5/*0!.;%*%0%0!/+* "!/0 5//1$/0$!%.7/%*0/%.0$ 58 0$!%*%0%0%+***%2!./.5* !+.0! 3%0$0$!00.%10!/+"0$!#+ 0+3$+)0$!5 .! ! %0! $!5(/++*0%*!(!)!*0/ !(+*#%*#0++0$!./1$/(+0$ !2+0%+*(+&!0/"(+3!./".1%0* +0$!./,!%("++ / THE ORISHAS $!)%*/*0!.;#+ %/(+"%0$! .!0+. %2%*%05/%)%(.0+0$!+ +"

$.%/0%*%05103%0$+10+*003%0$ .0$$!#+ /3$+)! %0!!03!!* $%)* 0$!"%0$"1(.!0$!3$+ (%/0!*0+0$!(00!./,.5!./$ $/$%/+3*+(+1.* /5)+(//3!(( /.%01($.0!.%6! 5%0/05,!+" *!)1/%* +/01)!/ $=*"+. !4),(!3!./5!((+3(+0$!/* (+2!/ $+*!5,(!/+"0 .%*'/* 2%+(%*/

Obbatalá

# % # !

Ochún " "" /!!,

The aspiring priest /*0!.+ !

# % # !"!

The axe*

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$*#
Elegguá

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Fresh flowers.!

(35/,(! +* 0$!(0./+" 0$!

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$*#< 5!((+3+*!/ "+.$=** 3$%0!+*!/ "+.0(9 Candles

A basket of offerings

%/+* %/,(5 1.%*# !.!)+*%!/$! )+*!5%/1/! 0+15+&!0/ +"3+./$%, Yemayá

+.%/$/#! # # /!!,

Changó " !# #

Various objects' ! " ' (

OTHER AFRO-CUBAN RELIGIONS )+*#0$!".%*1(0/,.0%/! %*

103++0$!./.!(/+/%#*%"%*0 (++*0!+.!#(5+):%* 3$%$$!./* +0$!.*01.( !(!)!*0/.!1/! "+.)#%(,1.,+/!/ * '19)+.!+")101(% /!.!0/+%!05"+.)!*+*(5$! "+.)!.%*0.+ 1! 0+ 15 *01 /,!'%*#".%*/(2!/".+)0$!

+*#+%.!* *#+(%//! +* 0$!1(0+"0$! ! $!"%0$"1(((! ,!."+.).%0!/0$0.! /+)!0%)!/).!* !2!*2!.#!+*(' )#%.!#%+*!03!!* %#!.%* )!.++* 3/0$!%.0$,(! +"0$!'191(0 *!(!.0%+*/ 0$!,.0%%,*0/ %/#1%/! / (%00(! !2%(/ *!* ,(5 )1/%$! $/!+)! ,.0+" 1* "+('(+.! An Abakuá diablito with his typical headdress

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

The courtyard7!3!490)#!,

&%!452%/&/,/.)!,!2#()4%#452% !.$4(%#%.42%/&$/-%34)#,)&% "/6%4(%/.$%$%!25#/3 !6!.!2%3)$%.#%7))4

THE 17TH CENTURY ",)8634-'%0'0-1%8);-8,,-+,8)14)6%896)7%2(,)%:=6%-2 -2*09)2')(8,)03'%0%6',-8)'896)%2=46-:%8),31)7,%(8,-'/ ;%0078-0)(633*7%2(;-2(3;74638)'8)(&=7,988)67 Balconies with slender wooden columns

Sloping roof of terracotta tiles

A typical wooden ceiling at Calle Tacón 4, in Havana

The house at Calle Obispo 117–194 7)4()43#(!2!#4%2)34)#

#%.42!,#/5249!2$!.$7//$%. "!,#/.)%33(/73!#,%!20!.)3( ).&,5%.#%).4(%3425#452%)43%,&!.$ ).4(%"5),$).'4%#(.)15%353%$

THE 18TH CENTURY 36)63317;)6)%(()(83,397)7;-8,%')286%0 '3968=%6(136),397)7;)6)&9-08%2(731);32()6*90 )<%140)73*'-:-'%6',-8)'896);)6)'6)%8)(",6)) ,-+,0-+,873*0-+,89&%2%6359)-2%:%2%%6)8,) %0%'-3()037%4-8%2)7)2)6%0)7 00; %0%'-3 ()0!)+92(3%&30%2(%:%2%%8,)(6%00 "6-2-(%(%073,%71%2= 8,')2896=3032-%0&9-0(-2+7

The mezzanine, a structural element introduced in the 1700s

Limestone façade

Palacio de los Capitanes Generales

)3!490)#!,5"!. !2/15%-!.3)/.7)4( 4()#+34/.%7!,,3!. !"5.$!.#%/&!2#(%3 #/,5-.30/24)#/%3!.$ "!,#/.)%3!.$!,!2'% #%.42!,#/5249!2$7)4( $%.3%6%'%4!4)/.

The arcade328,)+6392(*0336 ;,-',;%78,))<8)62%0)59-:%0)283* 8,)-22)6'3968=%6(;%7%2 8, ')2896=-223:%8-32786%()-2'6)%7)( 1%27-3270-/)8,-7,397)(+63;-2+ 291&)673*7)6:%287;,30-:)(-2 8,)03;)64%683*8,)&9-0(-2+

Stained-glass windows Arches7944368)(&= '309127%2(4-0%78)67 (-78-2+9-7, 8,')2896= &9-0(-2+7

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An elegant arched mediopunto window

MEDIOPUNTO ",)7)78%-2)(+0%77;-2(3;7;)6)'6)%8)( -28,)1-( 8,')2896=834638)'8,397)7 *6318,)+0%6)3*8,)8634-'%0792",)= &)'%1)43490%6-28,) 7;,)2 1%27-32;-2(3;7;)6)()'36%8)(;-8, +0%777)8-283%;33()2*6%1)",) 36-+-2%0+)31)86-'138-*7;)6)0%8)6 6)40%')(&=38,)67(6%;-2+-274-6%8-32 *6318634-'%0*036%%2(*%92%

#

THE 19TH CENTURY ",);-()746)%(97)3*4368-'3)7;-8, '309127%2(0-28)07;639+,8-632%2( ()'36%8-32-274-6)(&=0%77-'%0%28-59-8= 368,) )2%-77%2')-78,)(-78-2+9-7,-2+ *)%896)3* 8,')2896=9&%2)30%77-'%0 %6',-8)'896)6-00)7%'6377;-2(3;7%2( 7,988)67,)04)(%-683'-6'90%8)-27-() 46):-3970=8,)')286%0'3968=%6(4)6*361)( 8,-7*92'8-329-0(-2+78,%8&)786)46)7)28 9&%2)30%77-'-71%6)8,)%0%'-3() 0(%1%-2%:%2%0 %2(8,)")%863 !%983-2%8%2>%70 Wrought- or cast-iron grilles

Shutters and mediopuntos4638)'8)( 63317*631&6-+,80-+,8

Ionic pilasters

Palacio de Aldama$%3)'.%$"9!.5%,/3=!22%2!). &/24(% 7%!,4(9/./-).'/$%,$!-!)34(%-/34)-0/24!.4%/,!33)#!, "5),$).').!6!.!%*%#4).'!2/15%%85"%2!.#%)4%#(/%34(% !534%2)49!.$052)49/&,).%/&,!33)#!,!2#()4%#452%

Doric columns In the portico8,)%6',-7

6)40%')(&=8,)0-28)0

BRIDGING THE 19TH–20TH CENTURIES ",)%6',-8)'896%0:%09)3*1%2=9&%2'-8-)7()6-:)7*6318,)1-<896)3* (-**)6)2878=0)7",-7-77))2-2&9-0(-2+779',%78,))3336-7,%0%'-3 ()$%00)-2-)2*9)+370 8,)%4-830-3-2%:%2%00 ;%2(%8 %7)3%2(%00) %:%2%773'%00)(?1-00-32%-6)763;A;-8,740)2(-( 1%27-32779',%78,)%7%()0%1-78%(&9-08-2

3%%0

Detail of the façade of the Palacio Guasch, Pinar del Río (p136)

Palacio de Valle).)%.&5%'/3 $%3)'.%$"94(% %.%4)!.!2#()4%#4 ,&2%$//,,)). &/2#)3#,/ $%, !,,%#/-").%3//2)3(!.$ %.%4)!./4()#%,%-%.437)4( 2%&%2%.#%34/%!58243&/2-3;! 490)#!,%8!-0,%/&4(%%#,%#4)#349,%3 53%/&!2!.'%/&02%6!),).' !2#()4%#452!,-/4)&3!.$%,%-%.43

THE 20TH CENTURY ",))%60= 8,')2896=7%;8,) '327869'8-323*%*);)<%140)73* 6839:)%9%2(68)'3&9-0(-2+7 4%:-2+8,);%=*368,)1%.3696&%2 ():)0341)288,%8833/40%')-2%:%2% -28,) 7",-74)6-3(;-82)77)( 8,)&9-0(-2+3*731):)6=8%0013()62 7/=7'6%4)67%2(,38)0779',%78,) -:-)6% %2(8,)%&%2%-&6)8,)2'%00)(8,) %&%2%-0832024%6%00)0;-8, 8,-7'%1)8,)6-7)3*%78=0)8,%8;%7 6)1-2-7')283* %8-32%0-78%6',-8)'896)

Edificio Bacardí

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íctor Manuel García21( 5&.39.3,-&8&1<&>8'7.22*)<.9-;.9&1.9>&3)5&.39*78 2)7+()$7+(562)02'(518%$1 4+7*(*39,*3*7&9.438-&;*&(-.*;*).39*73&9.43&1 $57&5($7('7+($5&+(7<3$/ 7*(4,3.9.43-*15*)'>8-4<81.0*9-*&;&3&.*33.&1 .9&3&"745.(&1

Wifredo Lam >

/,9(')25$:+,/(,1 8523($1':25.(':,7+ $%/2,&$662,1$5,6 ('(9(/23('$1(: 3,&725,$//$1*8$*(7+$7 :(17%(<21'1$7,21$/ %281'$5,(6(3$,17(' (;75$25',1$5<3,&785(6 68&+$6&:3,1& "+(81*/(12:,17+( 86(802)2'(51 57(:#25.&!.11& 8**5$1'"-*"-.7) %471) 6((1 +(5(:+,&+&$67$ '5$0$7,&/,*+721 7+((/(0(176,1 8%$15(/,*,216 Amelia Peláez > %/(1'('67,///,)(027,)6 :,7+7+('(&25$7,9((/(0(176,18%$12/21,$/ $5&+,7(&785(68&+$667$,1('*/$66$1'&2/8016 $66((1+(5(,139*7.47<.9-41:238

René Portocarrero

>(;35(66('7+( (66(1&(2)8%$7+528*+ $$5248(/,.(9,6,212) 7+(&,7<3$,17,1*'20(6 7,&,17(5,256$1'),*85(62) :20(1$6,139*734)*1 *774 (0$'( 86(2)%2/'&2/285$1' :$6,1)/8(1&('%< 7+(8523($1$9$17 *$5'($1'(;,&$1 085$/3$,17,1*

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Raúl Martínez

$1'8,'2/,1?6:(5( /($',1*(;321(1762)7+( $%675$&7$57029(0(17 7+$7&$0(727+()25( ,17+( 6>6 $1'/$7(5$'237(' 7+(235767
Alfredo Sosabravo% >$3$,17(5,//8675$725(1*5$9(5 $1'3277(5>7$&./(67+(7+(0(62)1$785(0$1$1'0$&+,1(6 :,7+$1,521,&7:,67/($',1*),*85(+(+$6%((1$&7,9(6,1&( 7+( 672*(7+(5:,7+!(59$1'2$%5(5$25(12$(2 ;35(66,21,671721,$,5,=$),*85$7,9($57,67$1'$18(/ (1',9(:+26(68%-(&7,68%$6)5,&$1+(5,7$*(

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Author Dulce María Loynaz, pictured in her twenties

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Montecristo (1935)

Cuaba (1996)

Cohiba (1966)

Vegas Robaina (1997)

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Vegetable glue

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Trinidad Fundador, regular-shaped cigar

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APRIL SPRING La Huella de España

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MARCH

Festival Internacional de Percusión#8#0#

Festival de Monólogos y Unipersonales#8#0#

% %1/2'6+6+10(14 #%6145#76*145&+4'%6145 �%'45#0&%*14'1)4#2*'45 (41/#..18'47$#6#.51 ('#674'5/101.1)7'5$; (14'+)02'4(14/'45

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Taller Internacional de Teatro de Títeres

Bienal del Humor de San Antonio de Los Baños75'1

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MAY Primero de Mayo

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The First of May Parade in Plaza de la Revolución, Havana

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!

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AVERAGE DAILY HOURS OF SUNSHINE

8 6 4 2 0 Feb

Mar

Apr May Jun

SUMMER *'4'#4'8#4+175('56+8#.5 #0&('56+8+6+'5&74+0)6*' 57//'4/106*5'52'%+#..;+0 #8#0##0&#06+#)1./156 '8'4;'8'0+0)6*'4'#4' 12'0#+4%10%'465#.10) 6*'#.'%B0+0#8#0# 2#46+%7.#4.;+06*'537#4' -0190#56*'+4#)7#9*+%* +564#05(14/'&+061#012'0 #+4�%'(.114(4''1( %*#4)'(;172.#061 +0%.7&'6*'#40+8#.+0;174 8+5+6$11-#%%1//1+10 9'..+0#&8#0%'+0$16*%+6+'5 JUNE Festival Boleros de Oro #06+#)114B0#8#0# !("64+0)1(%10%'465 $;6*'$'567$#0#0& +06'40#6+10#.2'4(14/'45 1($1.'41510)5.'%674'5 Encuentro de Bandas de Concierto.#<#&'.#

'81.7%+B0 #;#/1 (" ,76&114%10%'465$; 0#6+10#.#0&+06'40#6+10#. $#0&5'%674'5914-5*125

Jul

Aug Sep

Oct

Nov Dec

&%'&#*&' )% +#(%& #&("&""( "'*"'%'+& %&#%'' $!' &("& %+&'" '&(!!%'&("& &'%#""+#(&#( $%#''+#(%&"" *%'" &(" &&&)" #" +'"&#%' &'%# "'#*"

Fiesta del Gallo14B0" #("#4#&'6*417)*6190 $#5'&106*'/'1(6*' %1%-'4'.5;/$1.+%*'4' Jornada Cucalambeana, Encuentro Festival Iberoamericano de la Décima#5 70#5"#

(""" *'/156 +/2146#06('56+8#.1(7$#0 474#.%7.674'10%'465#0& 2'4(14/#0%'5$;21'65 /75+%+#05#0&%$"'&'& +/2418+5'45'%674'5#0& .+6'4#4;/''6+0)5':*+$+651( .1%#.*#0&+%4#(656*'#64' Havana Carnival (",( 2#4#&'1((.1#65+06*' %+6;564''65)1+0)(41/6*' 16'.#%+10#.61#..' '.#5%1#@0#0&.+8'/75+% 2'4(14/#0%'5$;#!$%&& 241%'55+10#.)417259*1 24'2#4'#..;'#4.10)+0 8#4+1752#4651(6*'%+6; 69''-'0&5(4''%10%'465 #4'*'.B*'+4#)7# *'2#4#&'5%#0$'8+'9'& (41/#)4#0&56#0& JULY Fiesta del Títere#8#0# %&'*#( 722'6 5*195+0&+(('4'062#4651( 6*'1.&6190 Fiesta del Fuego#06+#)1&' 7$#%&' #( 007#. ('56+8#.%'.'$4#6+0)6*'/75+% 21'64;(+)74#6+8'#464'.+)+105 #0&*+5614;1(6*'#4+$$'#0 0#6+105''6+0)55*195 ':*+$+654170&6#$.'5 %10%'46521'64;4'#&+0)5#0& ('56+8+6+'56*417)*1766*'%+6; Festival Internacional de Música Contemporánea de Camagüey #/#)C';

Walking on stilts in Morón during the Fiesta del Gallo

Sunshine

Hours 10

Jan

"

( /#,14%106'/214#4; /75+%('56+8#.9+6*%10%'465

A group of dancers from a Havana comparsa

5'/+0#45#0&4170&6#$.' &+5%755+105107$#0#0& (14'+)0%1/215'45 Santiago Carnival #06+#)1&'7$# &#" #( #4#&'1((.1#65 #.10)6*'%+6;564''65.+8' /75+%2'4(14/'&$; #!$%&&#0*19(41/ 6*' 412+%#0#+0#06+#)1& $ 146*'/156 +/2146#062#4#&'56*'4'+5# )4#0&56#0&(1452'%6#6145 “26 de julio” )%++% "%"''+ *'1((+%+#.%1//'/14#6+10 1(6*'#66#%-106*'10%#&# $#44#%-5 &$ 9+6*# 52''%*$;24'5+&'06+&'. #5641#0&16*'421.+6+%#. .'#&'45+06*'/#+0537#4'1( # 7$#0%+6;#%%1/2#0+'& $;%*+.&4'09*14'%+6'21'64; #0&$;%10%'465 AUGUST Festival Internacional de Música Popular “Benny Moré” +'0(7')15#,#5#0&

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# ! $ $

AVERAGE MONTHLY RAINFALL

Rainfall

mm 300

Inches 12

240 9 180 6 120 3

60 0

0 Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr May Jun

AUTUMN

Jul

Aug Sep

Oct

Nov Dec

Festival de Teatro de La Habana';'4'

'-,"*1 ++(' *(& (.&*,()*#% %,*',+/#,"," *#'1++('/"' *# -,".1 +"(/*+ %%'," *('( *,,"+,*',#) ( ,"#+%'*#' %% #+".#*-+," &(-',#'+%($," ,%',#/#'+

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+('"% ( )#./8 (/+44/'29.+'97+,+89/;'2 ,+'9:7+8'5,9.+%/7-/49.+7+ (/+44/'2,+89/;'2 )549+3657'7> Alicia Alonso performing at the /8'8:7-+/49.+7+-:2'7 -/;+45;+795+(' :('4'4*,57+/-4 Teatro García Lorca 6/2-7/3'-+959./88/9+,753 +) )53658+78 Festival de Teatro Fiesta de la '226'7985,9.+/82'4* de Camagüey'3'-F+> Cultura Iberoamericana #.+89'9:+5,9.+%/7-/4 )3,4'9/54'29.+'97+ 52-:C4 +('"% ( , /8(574+/4675)+88/54 )536+9/9/54*+*/)'9+*95 ,+89/;'2-/;+45;+795 9.75:-.9.+897++98 "6'4/8.):29:7+5, )/7):2'9/5435;+8)5:49+7)25)1 ./-.9/*+8+=97+3+2>89754-.+';>'4* 9.+'22+9')/54'2*+:(' 6+78/89+497'/4,'227+8:29/4-/4,255*8#.+'7+'83589 .+'*+*(>2/)/'25485 ;:24+7'(2+959.+8+895738'7+9.+)5'898'7+'889.+35:49'/4 '7+'8'4*9.+)/9/+8589 NOVEMBER 5,9.+4'9:7'2*/8'89+78/4 :('/49.+2'89 >+'78 Salón de Arte Cubano .';+(++4)':8+*(> Contemporáneo+4975 9.+8+8957384 ' +8'775225*+2'879+8 ,7+'1.:77/)'4+*+8975>+* %/8:'2+8';'4'#''#% 9.5:8'4*85,.53+8 4+=65)536+9/9/545, "+69+3(+7'4*)95(+7 )549+3657'7>'79<5718 Satellite photograph of 67/?+8'<'7*+*'99.++4* 3549.8,57'7/((+'4 Hurricane Irene over Cuba 285)54,+7+4)+82+)9:7+8 .:77/)'4+8955)):7 75:4*9'(2+*/8):88/548 ,9+79.+:-:89.+'9<.+4 +;+7>9./4-95*59.3#.+4:3(+75, 95:7/898@:756+'48/4 6'79/):2'7@*+)7+'8+8

$ # ! $ # & !

Temperature

AVERAGE MONTHLY TEMPERATURE °F

°C 30

90

25

80

20

70

15

60

10

50

5

40

0

30 Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr May Jun

Jul

Aug Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

/9/8/4,')92/992+)+2+(7'9+* +<&+'78'>/8:8:'22> )+2+(7'9+*'9.53+57

Festival Internacional del Nuevo Cine Latinoamericano

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';'4' #*+,"% ( #./8/89.+3589 Festejos de San Cristóbal /36579'49)/4+3',+89/;'2'4* JANUARY de La Habana (. )536+9/9/545,9.+>+'7 +89/;/9/+8'4*)54)+798 '997')9/4-,'35:8 Feria 95)533+357'9+9.+ /49+74'9/54'2-:+898#.+ Internacional de ,5:4*'9/545,';'4' 3'/4)/4+3'8/49.+ Festival Internacional Artesanías )'6/9'267+8+49 de Coros"'2'5257+8 '(+=65';'4' 8)7++4/4-85,9.+ #+'975+7+*/'"'49/'-5 '3'4*/)7',98 '9/43+7/)'4 *+:('#''#%54)+798 ,/238/49.+ ,'/7"9'4*8,753 The Feria (>).57'2-75:68,753'22 */,,+7+49)5:497/+8 )536+9/9/54'8<+22 Internacional del 5;+79.+<572* 3++9/4-8'4*2+)9:7+8 '87+97586+)9/;+85, Libro logo Festival de Raíces :('4'4* FEBRUARY Africanas “Wemilere” /49+74'9/54'2,/233'1+78 Fiesta a la Guantanamera :'4'(')5' +('"% Feria Internacional :'49A4'35 #*+,"% ( ( (.,+89/;'25,,521 del Libro579'2+?'*+"'4 +7,573'4)+85,'4* +;+498 Festival Cubadanzón 7+2/-/54%/8/98959.+7+4). "% ( 551,'/7,+'9:7 #+'975"':95'9'4?'8 /4-'*/,,+7+494'9/54+'). ,%+52*)5,,++62'49' +('"% ( (. >+'7+<:('4'4*,57+/-4 9/548'4*9.+8954+?55 Día de San Lázaro"'49/'-5 +7,573'4)+8(>'24' 6:(2/8./4-/4/9/'9/;+867+8+49 57).+897'8'4**'4)+78 +*'4*852*!5:4*9'(2+8 )5:78+8'4*)54,+7+4)+8 )54,+7+4)+865+97>7+'*/4-8 +;+498'4*)54)+798 WINTER #.+3589')9/;+8+'8545, 9.+>+'7,753'):29:7'265/49 5,;/+<956 )54,+7+4)+8'4*,+89/;'289.+ 3'057/9>.+2*/49.+)'6/9'2 #.++;+498)'2+4*'7/8459 -+4+7'22>*/87:69+*(>9.+ .52/*'>8+'854(+)':8+ '29.5:-..7/893'8.'8(++4 '45,,/)/'2.52/*'>8/4)+

NATIONAL HOLIDAYS New Year’s Day Liberation Day '4 Labour Day '> National Rebellion Day

:2> Start of First War of Independence )9 Festival Internacional del Nuevo Cine Latinoamericano poster

Christmas Day +)

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Detail from the painting Siempre Che (Che Forever) by Raúl Martínez

-09:;*0;@05<)(

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# #

PIRATES AND BUCCANEERS :.+ ;:). =.5 '::')1+* !6'4/9. ? :.+ 3/* 9 :.+ 656;2':/54 5, -'22+54925'*+*=/:.:8+'9;8+'9=+22 ;(' .'* *=/4*2+* )549/*+8'(2? '9:.+;('4658:9 (+)';9+ :.+ 4':/<+ 4*/'49 .'* (++4 4 58*+8 :5 *+68/<+ !6'/4 5, .+8 6'4 "8+':? 9/-4+* (? !6'/4 9/54/9: 652/)/+9 5, 8'4)+ 8'4)+ '4* 8/:'/4 ,/4'22? 8/:'/4'4*:.++:.+82'4*9 '<'4':.+)./+,*5)1,58 6;: '4 +4* :5 :./9 ;4;9;'2 <+99+29:8'49658:/4-:8+'9;8+ ='8/4:.+%+9:4*/+9 ,853 3+8/)' :5 !6'/4 9554 4 :.+ 3+'4:/3+ '<'4' .'* (+)53+ :.+ 4+= )'6/:'2 5, *8+=:.+'::+4:/545,6/8':+9 ;(' :.'419 :5 /:9 =+22685 = . 5 = + 8 + 6 2 ? / 4 - : . + '8/((+'4 !+' (? :.+ 9+)54* Henry Morgan, the :+):+* ('? '4* :.+ )549:'4: .'2, 5, :.+ :. )+4:;8? 4 British buccaneer +(('4*,25=5,3+4'4*68+ :.+ 8+4). (;))'4++8 )/5;9)'8-5/36'8:+*').'4-+ 5, ;('4 9;-'8'4*:5('))5,58:.+685*;):95, :.+2*%582* THE BRIEF BRITISH DOMINION

The French buccaneers led by Jacques de Sores sacking the city of Havana

2:.5;-./4:.+ :.)+4:;8?:.+;('4 656;2':/54 )54)+4:8':+* '85;4* '<'4'.'*/4)8+'9+*=/:.:.+'88/<'2 5,!6'4/9.9+::2+89'4*,8/)'492'<+9 /4:.++'82? :.)+4:;8?:.+/92'4*='9

TIMELINE 1586'<'4''-'/4 8/919(+/4-'::')1+*(? 8'4)/98'1+98/:/9. (;))'4++89

1550 &!&'$* #!%"!

1555

'<'4'9')1+*'4*(;84+* (?8+4).(;))'4++89;4*+8 ')7;+9*+!58+9

"&"$ %" (!&*"& ')&&%"$&$%%% 1600

1607'<'4'(+)53+9

:.+/92'4*9)'6/:'2

1650

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The British fleet attacking Havana in the summer of 1762

9:/22'3/458)5254?4:.+9;33+85, '<'4' ='9 )547;+8+* (? :.+ 8/:/9.;4*+8:.+2+'*+89./65,+58-+ 5)5)1'4*58*2(+3'82+=.58;2+* ,58'(5;:'?+'85=+<+8+<+4/4:./9 9.58: 6+8/5* :.+ 8/:/9. 5));6':/54 ).'4-+* :.+ +)5453/) '4* 95)/'2 58-'4/@':/54 5, :.+ /92'4* ".+ :8'*+ 8+9:8/):/549 /3659+* (? !6'/4 =+8+ '(52/9.+* '4* ;(' (+-'4 :5 :8'*+ 56+42?=/:.8/:/9.)5254/+9/458:. 3+8/)' ".+ 92'<+ :8'*+ /4:+49/,/+* =/:.,8/)'49(+/4-;9+*'92'(5;8+89 54 :.+ 9;-'8 )'4+ 62'4:':/549 9 ' 8+9;2:5,:.+"8+':?5,'8/9*8'=4;6 /4 '<'4' ='9 8+:;84+* :5 :.+ !6'4/9./4+>).'4-+,58258/*'

35<+3+4: 68535:+* (? :.+ /4:+22+) :;'29++8+*/'$'8+2''4*$/22'<+8*+ % # '/3+* ': +9:'(2/9./4- ' ;('4 4':/54'2 /*+4:/:? 4 :.+ +'82? :. )+4:;8? !6'/4 ,58)+* :5 8+)5- 4/@+ :.+ /4*+6+4*+4)+ 5, 5:.+8 3+8/)'4)5254/+9-8'4:+*953+,8++ *53 :5 ;(' (;: :.+4 -'<+ :.+ /92'4*9 -5<+84589 */):':58/'2 65=+89 &+'89 5, 8+<52:9 =./). :.+ !6'4/9. 9;(*;+* 3+8)/2+992? :.+4 +49;+* 5=+<+8:.+4+=8+52+3/**2+)2'99 45254-+8.'*<+9:+*/4:+8+9:9/4:.+ !6'4/9. )85=4 '4* ='9 *+:+83/4+* :5-'/4/4*+6+4*+4)+,58:.+/92'4*

THE RISE OF NATIONAL IDENTITY

".+ :.)+4:;8?3'81+*:.+(/8:.5, ' 8+52+ '8/9:5)8')? ".+9+ 6+562+ ;('4(5845,!6'4/9.*+9)+4:)53 3/99/54+*:.+,/4+(;/2*/4-9=./).)'4 9:/22(+9++4:5*'?'4*2+*'5254/'2 2/,+9:?2+ ('9+* 54 ' )53(/4':/54 5, 25)'24*/'4'4*,8/)'4:8'*/:/549: :.+ +4* 5, :.+ )+4:;8? ' );2:;8'2

1697".+"8+':?

5, ?9=?1+4*9:.+ A)589'/8='8C/4 :.+%+9:4*/+9 1700

The new Havana middle class taking a carriage ride

1762".+8/:/9. '::')1'4*5));6? '<'4'

1750 #&! 1763".+"8+':?5,'8/93'819:.+ !$',% +4*5,8/:/9.5));6':/54'4* %%% '<'4'/9-/<+4(')1:5:.+!6'4/9. "($!"$" ' +

1830;('8+62')+9'/:/

'9:.+=582*92+'*/4- 685*;)+85,9;-'8 1800 1837/89:;('4 8'/2='?2/4+56+49 (+-/44/4-'::.+ 658:5,'<'4'

33'$!$&(--(-&.%3'$ 3'"$-34183'$4! -24& 1 (-#423186 2!..,(-&3' -*23.3'$&1.6(-&#$, -# %.124& 1(-41./$ -#,$1(" '$&1.63'.%3'$ (-#423186 2, #$/.22(!+$!83'$+ !.41.%2+ 5$2 !1.4&'3%1.,%1(" (-3'$(1&1$ 3$23-4,!$12%1.,3'$ + 3$ 3'3.3'$$ 1+8 3'"$-341($2!.43.-$,(++(.- ,$- -#6.,$-6$1$!1.4&'33.4! -#!8 1.4-# !+ "*%1(" -2(-"+4#(-&2+ 5$2 -# +$& ++8%1$$#2+ 5$2, #$4/,.1$3' -' +%3'$ /./4+ 3(.-.%4! '$(2+ -#!$" ,$3'$6.1+#2 +$ #(-&24& 1, -4% "341$1.5$13 *(-& (3( -#3'$ (-#42318".-3(-4$#3.3'1(5$ %3$13'$ !.+(3(.-.% 2+ 5$18(%$.-3'$24& 1/+ -3 3(.-23'$1$%.1$!$" ,$ *$8%$ 341$.%3'$(2+ -#2'(23.18 -#+(%$ Storehouses, stables

-#" 33+$2'$#26$1$!4(+3 1.4-#3'$ %% & 1$

Bells$)"+ #0)&,+ % &# %+(-&$-(.+ $ +-) .*'#0+& ."+.&)")*+$+ **$#0$)" + %% %& .&)"')&')+ '$+#*+ ##*&,%+& %%&,% + $

The sugar refining area

23..#(-3'$.1(&(- +".1$.%3'$ 24& 1% "3.183'$+)' .1,(++

Cimarrones.)),%.0 *#-*.& %+ $&,%+ %*&)&)*+*+&-& + 1 -"'$ #.1$2.&*!& + .*+& %%'+,)+$ &)# -*, + -* &)% 1)(,%+)-&#+* . .)#$&*+ %- +#0 *,'')**. +#&&*

The first stret ch of railway.-3'$(2+ -#

6'("' "34 ++8/1$"$#$# 3'$(-31.#4"3(.-.%31 (-2(- / (-6 2(- 4&41 3$#(- 3.31 -2/.1324& 1 " -$3.3'$/.13.% 5 -

Slaves were used

%##'**&*,) $%,+,)%%&+ &%#0* ##&,))* *&# ##,*+)+ &% *&.*+2 + #$+ 2 " +#$1 2.)+ %!, .*& # &) %) %

Carlos Manuel de Céspedes +&.%)&%*++%) %1% ##&) **#-*&% +&) +,*+) ) % +,%.)*& %'%% % *$% *+&*"&) +&# + &%&*#-)0 The barracones3'$2+ 5$2 #.1,(3.1($26$1$1$"3 -&4+ 1 !4(+#(-&2#(5(#$#(-3.2, ++ 1..,2 -#6(3'.-+8.-$ &1(++$##..1

The dances and music++)+&,++&- -%

) *+&+),$2$$/ .)')&)$ %+ (-&$-(.&$'% 0+),$$ %&" ).-$2 .&&%&/*,*+&+)%*'&)+&&*-)00) &%),)0+'#%++ &%&.%)*##&. + )*#-*+&#)++ )&) %*0 % % %+*+)+*)** % +) + &%#&*+,$*

THE INGENIO '$24& 1% "3.18 %% &6 2 (-1$ +(38 - &1.(-#4231( + ".,/+$7(-3'$,(##+$.%6'("' 23..#3'$.6-$12'.42$'(2 6 2424 ++8 -$+$& -3!4(+#(-& .%3$-$,!$++(2'$#6(3' 1"'$2 -#61.4&'3(1.-&1(++$2'$ 24& 1% "3.18.6-$16.4+#23 8 '$1$#41(-&3'$+.-&(-2/$"3(.- /$1(.#2'$+0 -,$1(-#( -3$1,42$#3.#$2"1(!$ ".++$"3(5$+8 ++3'$!4(+#(-&2.- - %% &(-"+4#$# 24& 1" -$ ,(++1$%(-$181..,2 #(23(++$18 -(-%(1, 1823 !+$2 -#".6 2'$#25$&$3 !+$& 1#$-2 23.1$'.42$2 -#3'$2+ 5$2 ))&%*.12+$$/(-&04 13$12

The ethnologist Fernando Ortiz 2 .*+ )*+

')*&%+&*) &,*#0%#01+ *& #&% + &%&+#"* % ,$'* 1 %+,#+,)# &%*. +) %+) + &%*

A CULTURAL MELTING POT '$ %% &6 2 /+ "$6'$1$+ -#.6-$12 % 1,$12 -#2+ 5$26'(3$ -#!+ "*,$- -#6.,$-' #3.+(5$ -#6.1*3.&$3'$1 '$%1(" -2+ 5$2" ,$%1.,#(%%$1$-3 $3'-("&1.4/2 -#2/.*$#(%%$1$-3 Symbol of the + -&4 &$2!433'$8, - &$#3.*$$/3'$(1 Abakuá 1$+(&(.42/1 "3("$2 +(5$!8,$$3(-&(-3'$ religion #&*,434 + (# 22."( 3(.-26'$1$ 3'$8".-3(-4$#3./1 83.3'$(1&.#2 9".-"$ +(-&:3'$,(-3'$&4(2$.% 3'.+("2 (-32* ''2 '$/ -(2'3'$,2$+5$2$-#$#4/ 22(,(+ 3(-& $+$,$-32.%3'$5$1831 #(3(.-23'$8' #!$$-318(-&3. 24//1$221$2$-3# 84! -,42(" -## -"$26$1$ 6(#$2/1$ #(-3'$+0 -#3'$.1(&(- +2.-&2 -# +(3$1 341$".-23 -3+81$%$13.3'$ %% &2(-"$(36 2 '$1$3' 33'$"4+341 +"1.22.5$138/(" +.%4! $5.+5$#

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THE TEN YEARS’ WAR AND THE ABOLITION OF SLAVERY

&

RESUMPTION OF HOSTILITIES AND THE END OF THE WAR

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áximo Gómez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

7+<38/= %2/ &$ ><+./ 398= A3>2 +--?=/.$:+3890,/3812/ ><+1/.C +8. A3>2 :?,63- 9:38398 >2/&$./@/69:/. TIMELINE 10 February 1878

!$ !# & *$"$$%% 1870

10 October 1868

<97)+<++<69=+8?/6./I=:/./= 6+?8-2/=>2/E-2+>><311/<=>2/

1875

%2/%C90*+84K87+<5=>2/ -+:3>?6+>39890>2/2//8.90 >2/%/8)/+<=(+< F>2/03<=> =>+1/38>2/=>
%%$(! '"! !%#!

1885

1886

9<7+6+,963>398 90=6+@/
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The US battlecruiser Maine in Havana Bay in 1898, with the Castillo del Morro on the right

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osé Martí, a national hero

2+8./. >2/ 5/C= 90 +@+8+ >9 &$ 1/8/<+6928<995/<97>23=:938> 98A+<.= ?,+ ,/-+7/ 38/B><3-+,6C 6385/.A3>2>2/&83>/.$>+>/= US SUPERVISION

8 /,2/ 98=>3>?/8> ==/7,6C +::<9@/. >2/ 03<=> ?,+8 -98=>3>?>398+8.%97H==><+.+"+67+ A+= /6/->/. : 9A/@/< >2/ ./6/1+>/= A/9 +--/:> >2/ "6+>> 7/8.7/8> 09<7?6+>/. ,C &$ =/8+>9>+8.+../.>9+,366 38 98123= :<9@3=398 +37/. +> =+0/1?+<.381 :/+-/ 98 >2/ 3=6+8.,?>3>=?8./<6C381:?<:9=/A+= >9=+8->398>2/<312>90>2/&$>938>/< @/8/38?,+8+00+3<=+8.>9=?:/<@3=/ ><+./ 398= ,/>A//8 ?,+ +8.9>2/<8+>398=8+..3>398>2/&$ A+= 1<+8>/. >2/ <312> >9 /=>+,63=2 8+@+6,+=/=98>2/3=6+8.38-6?. 381 >2/ 98/ +> ?+8>H8+79 38 +=>/<8?,+A23-23>=>3667+38 >+38= $" 6>29?12 09<7+6 38./:/8./8-/ A+= 1<+8>/. >9 ?,+ 98 +C 38 >2/ C/+<= >2+> 09669A/. 7/<3-+8 38@96@/7/8> 38 >2/ 69-+6 /-9897C38-2/:/B>90=+0/1?+<.381>2/3<-3>3D/8=+8. 38@/=>7/8>=>2/&$=/8>7+<38/=>9 >2/3=6+8.987+8C9--+=398=

15 February 1898 1895–8

9=I+<>J2/+.=39890 29=>363>3/=+1+38=>>2/$:+83=2 1890 18929=I+<>J38/B36/

38>2/&$09?8.=>2/ "+<>3.9#/@96?-398+<39 ?,+89

B:69=398 90>2/,+>>6/-
19 May 1895

9=I+<>J.3/=38 -97,+>

!)$ $%# #$% "#$ % !& 3<=>-98=>3>?>398

25 February 1901

1900

7 December 1896

10 December 1898

8>9839+-/9 .3/=38 -97,+>

"+<3=%C7+<5=/8. 90$:+83=2.9738398 +8.,/138838190 7/<3-+8-98><96

20 May 1902

?,+9,>+38= 09<7+6 38./:/8./8-/

# ! $ $

THE EARLY PERIOD OF THE REPUBLIC

4/:9,/89:

?+'89:.+;('4 !+6;( 2/)='9.+'*+*(?<'8/5;968+9/*+4:9 =.5*/*8+2':/<+2?2/::2+,58:.+)5;4 :8? #.+ 9+)54* /4);3(+4: 59F /-;+2 G3+@ =.5 ='9 4/)14'3+* "9.'81/9':2+'9::5(+)8+* /:+*,58.'
:.+ ;('4533;4/9: '8:?='9,5;4*+* #.+2+'*/4-,/-;8+/4:.+6'8:?='9:.+ '8>/9: /4:+22+):;'2 ;2/5 4:54/5 +22' 2+'*+8 5, :.+ '<'4' 9:;*+4: 35<+3+4:'4*1+?:5':/43+8/)'4 2+,:=/4- 652/:/)9 +22' ='9 '88+9:+* /4 ;('(;::.+4,8++*(+)';9+5,:.+ 3'99/<+ *+3549:8':/549 :.'::55162')+',:+8.+ =+4: 54 .;4-+8 9:8/1+ .+ ='9 :.+4 9+4:/4:5+>/2+/4+>/ )5 5=+<+8 54 '4;'8? +22' ='9'99'99/4':+*/4 +>/)5 /:? (? ./8+*1/22+89/4:.+ 6'?5,:.+*/):':58 +8'8*5 '). '*5 + (+)'3+ The Marxist intellectual '4':/54'2.+85 Julio Antonio Mella

1907 /8:.5,4*+6+4*+4: 525;8

'8:?=./).*+3'4*9+7;'2/:? (+:=++4=./:+9'4*(2')19

1905

1910

A popular uprising against the corrupt, inefficient government of Gerardo Machado

GERARDO MACHADO’S REGIME

4

+8'8*5 ').'*5 (+)'3+ 68+9/*+4:5,;('2':+8).'4-/4-:.+ 549:/:;:/5495.+)5;2*8;2+,58',;8 :.+8:+83=./)..+*/*=/:./854,58)+ ;4:/2 #./96+8/5*='93'81+*(?
1910–20

8)./:+):;8'2(553 /4'<'4' 1915

1929

1925

)5453/) )8/9/9

+8'8*5').'*5 (+)53+968+9/*+4: 1920

1925

29 September 1906

4:+8<+4:/545,$" '8/4+9=.5652/)+ ;(';4:/2

19255;4*/4-5, ;('4 533;4/9: '8:?

1930

#

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BATISTA’S DICTATORSHIP

,:+8%582*%'8:.+8:.5*5> '8:? 2+*(?*;'8*5./(D9(+)'3+656; 2'89;6658:+*(?:.+358+685-8+99/<+ 3+3(+895,:.+3/**2+)2'99#./96'8:? 3/-.: .'<+ =54 :.+ +2+):/54 :.': ='9 :5:'1+62')+54 ;4+ (;:54 '8).;2-+4)/5':/9:'9:'-+*')5;6 85:+9:*+3549:8':/549,5225=+*)54 9/9:/4-359:2?5,9:;*+4:9=./).=+8+ 8;:.2+992?8+68+99+*#.+;4/<+89/:?='9 :.+4)259+*':/9:'9-5<+843+4:.'< /4-:.+5,,/)/'29;6658:5,:.+$"'('4 *54+*/:9/4/:/'2656;2/9:9:'4)+'4*(+ )'3+'45;:'4*5;:
Dancers at the Tropicana in the 1940s

Fulgencio Batista (left) with American vice-president Richard Nixon

3+'9;8+ 5=+<+8 :.+8+ ='9 ' ./-. 68/)+ :5 6'? ;(' .'* 45: 542? (+)53+'2'4*5,)'9/459'4**8;-9/: .'* '295 ,'22+4 /4:5 :.+ .'4*9 5, :.+ 3+8/)'4 ;4*+8=582* =./). 8'4 :.+ 25)'2-'3(2/4-.5;9+9'4*2;>;8?.5 :+29;9+*,58354+?2';4*+8/4- THE CUBAN REVOLUTION

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

12 August 1933

1940–4

:4/-.:').'*5 ,2++9=/:.'25'*5, -52*:5:.+'.'3'9

;2-+4)/5 ':/9:'5(:'/49 68+9/*+4:/'23'4*':+:.'419 :5')5'2/:/545,,58)+9

1935

1940

1945

#.+ !+<52;:/54 2/(+8':+9 ;(',853 */):':589./6 1950

1955 10 March 1952

January 1934

":'8:5,'6+8/5*=/:.'9+8/+9 5,6;66+:68+9/*+4:93'45+; <8+*(?:.+;('4 83? 9+8-+'4:;2-+4)/5':/9:'

1953–9

5;6*F:E:(? ;2-+4)/5 ':/9:'

"

# #

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

The attack against the Moncada barracks

3..*/+!#%.-

4+7 3(% 3(!--)5%1 2!17.&.2:!13;2")13((%1%"%+23..* !$5!-3!'%.&3(%!1-)5!+&%23)5)3)%23.,.5% 4-2%%-)-3(%#1.6$2"433(%!33!#*6!2!&!)+41%

Havana:%62''83-)(&<,)

KEY Raúl Castro’s march

8)9%5%6+8)55-//%6:,-/) %6752)17)5)(!%17-%+2() 8&%%18%5<

Che Guevara’s march

Santa Clara:%67,)6')1)2*7,)&%77/)

7,%70%5.)(7,)75-803,2*7,)5)92/87-21 *7)57,)5)&)/69-'725<%7-67%*/)(72 !%172 20-1+2 )')0&)5

• Havana • Matanzas

Camilo Cienfuegos’ march

• Pinar del Río

Santa Clara Cienfuegos •

Isla de la Juventud

Radio Rebelde

6!23(%'4%11)++!2 1!$).23!3).-2%34/)- 3(%)%11!!%231!"7 (%4%5!1!)- %"14!17 32 /1.'1!,,%26%1% +)23%-%$3.!5)$+7 !++.5%13(%)2+!-$

The Landing of the Granma

)-4"!3..*/+!#%.-

%#%,"%1 %#!42% .&!-!5)'!3).-!+%11.1 3(%7!#(3+!-$%$.-!2 .+.1!$!2"%!#()-23%!$.& )04%1.-3%1#%/3%$"7! 6!12()/3(%1%"%+231)%$3. %2#!/%"436%1%2(.3$.6- "7!3)23!2/+!-%2(.2% #!/341%$6%1%*)++%$6()+% 3(%2415)5.12)-#+4$)-' !231.3..*1%&4'%)-3(% )%11!!%231!

Sierra del Escambray:%65)%',)(&< ,) 8)9%5%%*7)5%1);,%867-1+ 0%5',,-60)1:)5):-7,287*22(25 6,2)6%1();75)0)/<:)%5<&877,)< :)5)9-'725-286'72&)5

THE PHASES OF THE WAR ",)%(9%1')2*7:2'2/80162*+8)55-//%6*520 7,)!-)55%%)675%>21)/)(&<,) 8)9%5%%1( %0-/2 -)1*8)+26727,):)67'72&)5 7,)27,)5&< %@/ %6752&281(*258%17?1%02> 0%5.)(7,)'/-0%;2*7,)5)92/87-21%5-)66758++/) *7)57,)&%77/)2*!%17%/%5%'2148)5)(&< 8)9%5%6752236%77,))1(2*)')0&)5%7-67% )6'%3)(72!%17220-1+2 1%18%5< 9-'725<:%6()'/%5)(&<7,)5)92/87-21

•

" ! "

$ #

Castro entered Havana.-!-4!17 !-$.- %"14!176!2%+%#3%$/1),%,)-)23%133(%3),%3(% /1%2)$%-36!2!-4%+1143)!%+%#3%$!&3%1!3)23!2 %2#!/%(%1%5.+43).-!17'.5%1-,%-3),,%$)!3%+7 !".+)2(%$1!#)!+$)2#1),)-!3).-!-$1%$4#%$1%-32 !-$3(%#.23.&%+%#31)#)37

Young women)-#+4$)-'!)$:% !-3!,!1;!%+)!9-#(%8!-$ )+,!2/;-/!13)#)/!3%$!#3)5%+7 )-3(%1%5.+43).-!176!1 &3%1!5!-!6!2#!/341%$ 3(%76%1%%-31423%$6)3( '4!1$)-'231!3%')#/.)-32

On the Sierra Maestra4"!2+!1'%23,.4-3!)-

• Camagüey Holguín •

Playa Las Coloradas

• Bayamo

:%6:,)5)7,)1!-,! /%1()(21 )')0&)5 The attack at La Plata% 0-/-7%5<&%55%'.6:%67,) 5)&)/6*-56768'')66 %18%5<

1!-'%3(%1%"%+2.1'!-)8%$'4%11)++!6!1&!1% 1%#14)3)-'2.+$)%12&1.,!,.-'3(% /./4+!3).-!".5%!231.1%#14)3)-' &!1,%12(%231!3%'76!23.!,"42( !3)23!231../2!-$3!*% 3(%)124//+)%2!-$ 6%!/.-2 Santiago de Cuba • • Guantánamo

In the Sierra Maestra-()/%6752,)

8)9%5%%1(7,)27,)56859-92562*7,) 1!-,!:25.)(287%675%7)+<2* +8)55-//%:%5*%5):-7,%+52:-1+180&)5 2* "!1"4$.2678()176%50<()6)57)56 %1(5)-1*25')0)1766)17&<7,)85&%1 &5%1',2*7,)29-0-)172 ()8/-2

At Santiago de Cuba7,) 5)&)/6:21%1-03257%17 9-'725<21 %18%5<

TIMELINE October 1953 %6752

'21()01)(72 <)%56-035-6210)17 -15)6-(-22()/2

30 November 1956 /22(<

5)35)66-212* 5)92/7%7!%17-%+2

1953

31 August ,)%1(

(% 4%5!1!

1958

1956

26 July 1953

77%'.21 21'%(% &%55%'.6

15 May 1955

%6752*5))( +2)672 );-'2-1 );-/) !231.+%!5)-'/1)2.-

-)1*8)+26/)%9) )%6772'2148)5 ')175%/5)+-216

2 December 1956%1(-1+

2* 1!-,!

1956–58 8)55-//% :%5-1!-)55%%)675%

1 January ,)

%1( -)1*8)+26 )17)5 %9%1% %6752!%17-%+2

1959

24 February %(-2

)&)/()6)783

31 December

!%17% /%5%*%//6 %7-67%*/))6

8 January

%6752)17)56 %9%1%-1 75-803,

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he straw hats

5.0-!72'$$#3$6&14 5$0$2'.1$".,,.-+7 31$#!7% 0,$01

Ernesto “Che” Guevara 8#4#0

3)'05+0+#08*1/'5#4531+0 '9+%1!023'5'05+164 453#+)*5(138#3�%'5+%#0& #060%1/231/+4+0)+&'#.+45*' $'.+'7'&5*' *+3&"13.&%16.&$' (3''&10.:5*316)*#3/'& 3'$'..+101$$/

Camilo Cienfuegos#%1/ /#0&'38*14'%163#)'8#4 .')'0:8#4#&+3'%54210 5#0'1642'34108+5*#)3'#5 4'04'1(*6/163'2.#:'&# %36%+#.31.'+05*'#3/'& 4536)).'$65511-2#35+05*' )17'30/'0510.:(13#$3+'( 2'3+1&'&+4#22'#3'&10 %51$'3 8*+.'3'5630+0) +0*+44/#..2.#0'#(5'3#33'45+0) )6'3+..#%1//#0&'36$'35 #5148*1*#&$'53#:'&5*' '71.65+10+0#/#)A':#0& 8#40'7'34''0#)#+0

Horses5$0$2'$,.12 ".,,.-,$ -1.%20 -1/.02 31$#!72'$0$4.+32(.- 0($1

Frank País4''0*'3'8+5**+4/15*'3#0& (+#0%?'*'#&1(5*'17+/+'051

&'6.+1 8#4'053645'&8+5*13)#0+;+0)#3'71.5+0 #05+#)1&'6$#5*#5816.&%1+0%+&'8+5* 5*'.#0&+0)1(5*'0 -, 1017'/$'3 65$'%#64'1(5*'&'.#:+05*' .#0&+0)5*'3'71.58#43'23'44'&#@4&+'& +0#05+#)1&63+0)5*'#3/'&3'71.5+0#0 #/$64*4'562$:5*'%*+'(1(21.+%'

Raúl Castro+&'.4$315*'3%633'05.:%5 +0)3'4+&'051(6$#8#410'1( 5*'('84637+71341(5*'.#0&+0)1(5*' 0 -, '511-2#35+05*' )6'33+..#8#3#0&$'%#/' #/'/$'31(5*')17'30 /'05#&125+0)#3#&+%#. 45#0%'4+0+45'31( '('0%'*'4+)0'& 8+5**364*%*'7 5*'#)3''/'05(13 5*'+045#..#5+101( 5*'06%.'#3 /+44+.'4+06$# 5*#5%#64'&5*' %3+4+4

The Cuban flag31$#

%2$02'$ 5 01.%(-#$/$-#$-"$' 12'$ ".+.301.%2'$0$-"'$4.+32(.- '$2'0$$!+3$120(/$10$/0$1$-2 2'$.+#/0.4(-"$1.%2'$(1+ -#

Fidel Castro with Juan Almeida.'(5 10'1(5*'453#5')+4541(3'71.65+10#3:)6'33+..#8#3(#3' #4531#)3'#513#513#0&21.+5+%#.453#5')+455*';#$0 :6(,.#0<%1/231/+4+0)2#53+152'3410+(+'& 5*'6$#045#5'421'5+%1.>46+..?08315'<*' #%%1/2.+4*'&8*#514?#35@*#&231/+4'&=13010 6)645

+0#:#3@+0#45'306$#5*'4101( 2#0+4*+//+)3#054*'456&+'&8+5*5*''46+54#0& 511-#&')3''+0.#8'$')#051(+)*5(135*' %#64'8*+.'#560+7'34+5:

THE BARBUDOS '$0$!$+15$0$0$%$00$#2. 1 $#3$6&14!$ 0#$#,$- !$" 31$#30(-&2'$(02(,$(- 2'$,.3-2 (-12'$7 ++&0$5 +.-&!$ 0#1 + 0&$-3,!$0 .%% 0,$01).(-$#2'$(0% ,.31 , 0"'$1'(1/'.2.&0 /' 2 *$-!72'$3! -/'.2.& 0 /'$0 <+.00 +$1 $6/0$11$12'$$/(" -#2$ , 1/(0(2.%2'$0$4.+32(.-

Guillermo García Morales

8#410'1(5*'(+3456$#0 (#3/'3451,1+05*' 3'71.65+10#3:8#31(5*' 17+/+'051

&'6.+1 )6'33+..#+05*'+'33# #'453#51)'5*'38+5* #4531*'8#40#/'& 1//#0&'31(5*' '71.65+10(13*+4 &+45+0)6+4*'&4'37+%'

Celia Sánchez Manduley'42164'&5*' 3'71.65+10#3:%#64'#5#0'#3.:#)'#0& (16)*5+05*'+'33##'453#104+&'3'& +&'.#453143+)*5*#0&

! & $ " ' ! '

ERADICATING ILLITERACY, AGRICULTURAL REFORM

V

"8/90>2/03<=>+->=90>2/398 + A+= + -+7:+318 +1+38=> 3663>/<+-C 383>3+>/. 38 >29?=+8.= 90 =>?./8>= ><+@/66/. >2<9?129?> >2/ -9?8>/+-2381 >2/ 398 >9 / 2/ ?/@+<+ A29 .?<381 >2/ 1?/<<366+ A+<0+2/ 79?8>+38= 2+. /8-9?<+1/. 23= 7/8 >9 ./@9>/ arriving at the US naval base of Guantánamo =97/ >37/ >9 =>?.C :+<>3-3:+>/. 38 Marines during the missile crisis >2/-+7:+3188+=29<>>37/3663>/<+ -CA+=/<+.3-+>/. &2/ 8/B> =>/: A+= +1<+<3+8 ?,+ A23-2 2/<+6./. + ,9C A23-2 ,/1+8 A3>2 >2/ +,963>398 90 -9>> ,C 79=> 9>2/< -9?8><3/= 38 >2/ 9A8/<=23: 90 6+<1/ 6+8./. /=>+>/= 7/<3-+=/B-/:> /B3-9+8.+8+.+ /=:/-3+66C>29=/38093-? &2/=/-9?8><3/=+6=9=/@/3- 6+< 7/<3-+82+8.='%6+8.296.381= 398=A3>2>2/3=6+8.+=>2/'%2+. A/3-+66CA+=>2//=>+,63=27/8> >2/ ,/1388381 90 29=>363>3/= ,/>A//8 90 /@/8 -69=/< >3/= ,/>A//8 ?,+ +8. >2/>A9-9?8><3/=8"->9,/< >2/ >2/-977?83=>A9<6.C/+<6+>/<A2/8 '%./-6+>>2+> >2/ '% .3=-9@/2/ :2/ /B:9<> 90 :/><96/?7 >9 8?-6/+<73==36/=3>/=38?,+# /88/.C9<./2/37:9<>90 ,69-5+./ +<9?8. >2/ ?,+8=?1+<0>/<8/+< 3=6+8. +8. ./7+8./. 6C>A9C/+<=901<9A381 >2+>>2/73==36/38=>+66+ >/8=398 ?,+ =/-?398= ,/ .3=7+8>6/. -69=/< /-98973- +8. 377/.3+>/6C > >2/ :963>3-+6 >3/= A3>2 >2/ 2/312>90>2/-<3=3=A3>2 %9@3/> '8398 +=>/<8 >2/A9<6.:93=/.98>2/ ?<9:/ +8. 238+ 8 ,<385908?-6/+2/ > 2 / 7 / + 8 > 3 7 / > 2 / Participants in the campaign %9@3/> : !353>+ => -9?8 against illiteracy in 1961 22/ 73==36/= >9 ,/ >+5/8 THE EMBARGO AND MISSILE CRISIS ,+-5>9>2/%9@3/>'8398 "8 :<36 + 1<9?: 90 ?,+8 /B36/=+8.7/<-/8+<3/=><+38/.,C>2/ FROM THE ZAFRA CAMPAIGN TO THE EMIGRATION OF THE “MARIELITOS” 6+8./.+>#6+C+32/+C 90#31=>938@+./>2/3=6+8.?>>2/ ?<381 >2/ /+<6C =>+1/= >2/ 19@/<8 +>>+-50+36/.,/-+?=/-98><+9>2/ 7/8> 2+. +37/. >9 -/ += 7?-2 /B:/->+>398=90>2/'%?,+8-3@363+8= .3@/<=3>C38>2//-9897C+=:9==3,6/ .3. 89> <3=/ ?: +1+38=> +=><9 9A/@/<38 389<./<>9384/->630/ 312> .+C= 6+>/< # 38>9>2/06+11381/-9897C+66/009<>= /88/.C ./-6+<+./ /7,+<19 A/<+>/. 98 :<979>381 >2/ TIMELINE 1961 :<36 6+8.381+>+C90#31= '%/7,+<19,/138=98:<36

1962 3==36/

-<3=3=

1965 "86C6/1+6:963>3-+6:+<>C3=

>2/ ?,+8 977?83=>#+<>C

1960 1961+8?+
.3:697+>3398=A3>2 '%+
19753<=>-9812/?,+8 977?83=>#+<>C

1970 1967 /+>2

90 2/ ?/@+<+

1970 &2/

-+7:+318

1980 1980

?,+8=/731<+>/ 0<97>2/=7+66 2+<,9?<+> +<3/6

&

% & " $ * " '

=?1+<-+8/2+<@/=>-+7 =:/-3+6 +8C=/->9<= :+318 >+<1/> A+= =/> 90 >/8 9038.?=>9+ 7366398 >98= ,?> 38 >2/ =>+8.=>366.?/>9+6+-5 /8. 986C A/= A//. 8 >2/ =+7/ /<38 >398= 38 >2/ =?::6C 7/<3-+8 -9?8><3/= 90 /6/-><3-3>C +8. 3- A+>/< ,/-+7/ 398= A3>2 ?,+ :+<> 90 /@/2/ 398 630/><+8=:9<>@3< 2+.+-23/@/.+1 Pope John Paul II and Castro during his visit to Cuba >?+66C -+7/ >9 + ./+6 38 =9-3+6 >/<7= 2+6>099.<+>398= >2/-9?8>2/ %9@3/> '8398 +6=9 >2//731<+>39890

?,+8=>2/ A3>2.= ><99:= +8. >/-283-3+8= =9-+66/. E8+7/.+0>/<>2/ &2/ /-98973- -<3=3= -98>38?/. >9 =7+662+<,9?<90 +<3/68/+<+@+8+ A9<=/8?8>36 A2/2/C=/>90009< 3+73 THE ECONOMIC RECOVERY THE PERÍODO ESPECIAL

&2/ .3=7+8>6381 90 >2/ /<638 )+66 38 +8. >2/ =?,=/;?/8> -966+:=/ 90 977?83=7 38 +=>/<8 ?<9:/ ./:<3@/. ?,+ 90 /-98973- :+<>8/<= +8.+=><9.3.89>-98-/+623=.3=635/ 909<,+-2/@= :963-C&2/ =?=:/8=398 90 %9@3/> +3. A+= + -<3: :6381 ,69A 09< >2/ ?,+8 /-9897C +8.><311/2+>>2/19@/<8 7/8>0+-/.,C37:9=381+:<91<+77/ 90 +?=>/<3>C 8 >2/ 3=6+8. A/8> >2<9?12 98/ 90 >2/ 79=> .3003-?6> :2+=/= 38 3>= 23=>92/ #/
Empty shelves in a shop during the crisis period

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

2006

1998

#9:/928#+?6=@3=3> >9 ?,+ E

+8?+>?<8381:938>

1996 &2//67=

1990 /138838190 >2/#/
?<>986+A>312>/8= /-98973-/7,+<19 1990

2000

1991 &2/%9@3/>

1989 /<638)+66

-97/=.9A8

'8398A3>2.<+A= ><99:=+8. >/-283-3+8=

?6C +=><93=>+5/8 =/<39?=6C366+8.23= ,<9>2/<$+H6,/-97/= ->381#

2000 >9?<3=>=

1996

8 !9@/7,/< +=><9@3=3>=#9:/ 928#+?6 38>2/(+>3-+8

@3=3> ?,+3898/C/+<

HAVANA AREA BY AREA

HAVANA AT A GLANCE 5659 HABANA VIEJA 6077 CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO 7895 VEDADO AND PLAZA 96105 FURTHER AFIELD 106117 HAVANA STREET FINDER 118123 ENTERTAINMENT IN HAVANA 124127

! "

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HAVANA

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Necrópolis de Colón 5''22 =

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Castillo del Morro /"",

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Havana at sunset, with the dome of Capitolio rising up over the rooftops

Martí Memorial 5''2 &* (6!"("2+(1 &9*&/+*"+# 0%"/5)+(/+#1%"3%&0" ).("/001"+#0%"$."0 ,0.&+0#+.)/#+ (,+&*0#+. *0&+*( "(".0&+*/

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Catedral de San Cristóbal 5''2

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CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO

LOCATOR MAP See Street Finder pp120–23.

1 The Caryatid Building

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2 The area between Prado and Calle Belascoaín2$%$

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Balconies with Neo-Moorish decorative patterns

ARCHITECTURE !,)%0)'B2-70-2)(;-8, &9-0(-2+7;,37)4%78)0,9)7 ,%:)*%()(-28,)792%2( 7%08=%-6%7;)00%7)%60=

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Hotel Nacional

4 Between Calle 23 and Calle G%./$! ./-!/$*"/$!'!9)/$/*- !-./$! ! *,0-/!-/*/$!)*-/$*(%)/! 41)./''!./0%' %)#./$%.%./$! .!"-*)/*"(* !-)(!/-*+*'%.

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ATMOSPHERE !,)%:%2%7)%*6328-7 )74)'-%00=1%+-'%0%87927)8 ;,)28,)'3039673*8,) &9-0(-2+7%6)%'')289%8)( !,)%0)'B2-7%8-87&97-)78 32 92(%=7;,)28,) %:%2%27;,3'%2238 +)8838,)0%=%7()0 78)*03'/,)6) Young people03:)83+%8,)6 %032+8,)%0)'B2831))8 *6-)2(773'-%0->)7;-1 792&%8,)%2((6-2/691

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A WALK BY THE OCEAN: THE HISTORY OF THE MALECÓ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he Malecón in the early 1900s 6%(3;%7'3140)8)( &))24%680=6):-:)(

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KEY

Museums and Galleries

Street-by-Street map pp62–3

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A woman in Colonial costume on the Cathedral steps

Former entrance to the seminary

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STAR SIGHTS

Catedral de San Cristóbal

Museo de Arte Colonial

Bodeguita del Medio

7+&(1785<%8,/',1* 6855281',1*$63/(1',' &2857<$5',67+(+($' 48$57(562)7+(/(-2 $53(17,(5281'$7,21 +,6:(//.12:1 7+ &(1785<8%$1:5,7(5 *'

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

*)*+,)%+ *#%)0 +%"*+&+.) +))%*+ $ %.0.&$) +&) %"02-,726

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO

HABANA VIEJA

LOCATOR MAP See Street Finder, pp120–23, map 4

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Plaza de Armas (see pp66–7)

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Calle Empedrado 156. Map 4 E2. Tel (7) 8617 771. 10:30am– 3pm Mon–Fri, 10:30am–2pm Sat, 9– 11:30am Sun. 7:15am Mon & Fri, 8:15am Tue & Thu, 10:30am Sun.

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The austere nave of Catedral de San Cristóbal

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Pope John Paul II in front of the Cathedral

POPE JOHN PAUL II’S VISIT #89.817#*>5?2<2=.->+*/;86 E

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

! '

Calle San Ignacio 61. Map 4 E2. Tel (7) 8626 440. 9am–6:45pm daily. 10 Oct. (with charge).

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Museo de Arte Colonial: an arched mediopunto window .;.7=;*7,.27

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Calle Empedrado 207. Map 4 E2. Tel (7) 8671 374. noon–12:30am daily.

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Calle San Ignacio 5. Map 4 E2. Tel (7) 8626 989. 8:30am–4pm Mon–Fri. 1 Jan, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec.

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The Bodeguita del Medio with its memento-covered walls

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Farmacia Taquechel

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Stairway leading to the battlements, Castillo de la Real Fuerza

Calle Tacón e/ Calle Obispo y O’Reilly. Map 4 F2. Tel (7) 8616 130. Closed for restoration until late 2008.

LA GIRALDILLA $/,9,(9,=(906<:;/,690,:(: ;6;/,4,(505.6-;/,)965A, >,(;/,9=(5,:*<37;,+)@ ,9G5046(9;F5!05AG505 B (5+46+,33,+65;/, 65,*96>505.(09(3+(05 #,=033,#64,7,673,:(@0;0: ;/,:@4)636-=0*;69@6;/,9: ;/0520;0:;/,7,9:650-0*(;065 6-#,=033,;/,-05(3+,:;05(;065 6-:/07:.605.;6<967, <;6;/,9::(@;/,:;(;<, The tower with its copy of the 9,79,:,5;:5E:+,6)(+033( 17th-century weathervane >0-,6-;/,#7(50:/.6=,9569 ,95(5+6+,#6;6**69+05.;63,.,5+:/,:7,5;/6<9: .(A05.(;;/,/690A65>(0;05.-69/,9/<:)(5+;69,;<95 -964/0:,?7369(;0656-3690+((5+6;/,97(9;:6-;/,%#05 =(05:05*,/,+0,+65;/,)(52:6-;/,0::0::0770$/0:0: :(0+;6),;/,9,(:65>/@;/,:;(;<,>(:73(*,+65;/, /0./,:;7605;6-;/,-69;9,::+6405(;05.;/,769;,5;9(5*,

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Plaza de Armas, Calle Baratillo y O’Reilly. Map 4 F2. 9am–7pm daily. 1 Jan, 1 May. (with charge).

#4(33(5+(<:;,9,;/0: ,63(::0*(3)<03+05. 9,:,4)305.(;,473,:;(5+: 65;/,:76;>/,9,(**69+05. ;63,.,5+;/,*0;@6-#(5 90:;G)(3+,(()(5(>(: -6<5+,+05 ,9,<5+,9 (3,(-@*,0)(B(;9670*(3;9,, *65:0+,9,+:(*9,+)@(33;/, 5(;0=,:6-,5;9(34,90*(B ;/,-09:;4,,;05.6-;/,36*(3 .6=,954,5; (5+ ;/,-09:;4(::9,7<;,+3@;662 73(*, 4(1,:;0**,0)(;9,, :;033:;(5+:05-965;6-3

View of the Castillo de la Real Fuerza: the drawbridge and entrance, the moat, and the Giraldilla tower (left) For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

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6-*605:)(5256;,:63+ 36;;,9@;0*2,;:4,+(3: (5+<)(5(5+-69,0.5 )(52+6*<4,5;: ; 6 0:;/, ;/ *,5;<9@ Casa de los Arabes>0;/+0:73(@: 6- ;/(5+ ;/ *,5;<9@ 0:7(50*9() )965A,:-()90*:9<.: (5+-<950;<9,;/, 3(9.,:;,;/56.9(7/0* +0:73(@6-9()6)1,*;: 05<)(,=0+,5*,6- ;/,79,:,5*,6-(563+ ,)(5,:,#@90(5(5+ !(3,:;050(5*6365@65 ;/,0:3(5+$/,)<03+05. (3:6/6<:,:;/,653@ 46:8<,05<)((5+(5 5+(3<:0(59,:;(<9(5; $/,;/09+05;,9,:;05. The Casa de los Arabes patio, with narrow (5+*<906<:4<:,<465 balconies and a Moorish-style fountain ;/,:;9,,;0:;/,Museo del Auto Antiguo-,(;<905. =05;(.,(+033(*:"633:"6@*,: Casa de los Arabes Tel (7) 8615 868. !(*2(9+:(5+69+:+(;05. Closed for restoration. -964;/, :(:>,33(:;/, ,309/,=963,;;/(;65*, Museo del Auto ),365.,+;6/,<,=(9( Antiguo

Museo Numismático Tel (7) 8615 811. 9:15am– 4:30pm Tue–Sat; 9am–1pm Sun. 1 Jan, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec.

The First Mass, one of Vermay’s paintings in the Templete

Map 4 F2.

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Tel (7) 863 9942. 9am–4:30pm Tue–Sat, 9am–12:30pm Sun. Mon.

THE MARKET IN PLAZA DE ARMAS #05*,;/,,(93@ :>/,5:4(33)<:05,::,:>,9,6--0*0(33@ (<;/690A,+;/0:73(A( /(:),,5-033,+>0;/ *636<9-<3:;(33:5;/,:;9,,;:;/(;:<996<5+0;0:(4(92,; >0;/:,*65+/(5+)662:(5+7,906+0*(3:6-,=,9@205+ 4(.(A05,:7<)30:/,+05;/, :(5+ :5,>:7(7,9: -964;/,;04,6-;/,9,=63<;065(5+<)(5*3(::0*:56>6<; 6-7905;,?;;6;/,#(5(936:@#(54)96:06#,405(9@ (5+),/05+;/,(:;03360:;/,;6<90:;/(5+0*9(-;:4(92,; >/,9,:203-<33@4(+,6)1,*;:*9,(;,+-9647(70,94C*/E (5+.3(::;(2,;/,0973(*,(365.:0+,;/,469,;9(+0;065(3 (5+-(4030(9*,9(40*:(5+*(9=,+>66+

Second-hand books at the daily market in the Plaza de Armas

!

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STAR SIGHTS

Cenotaph from the Parroquial Mayor Church

La Giraldilla Salón de los Espejos

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Plaza de Armas, Calle Tacón e/ O’Reilly y Obispo. Map 4 E2. Tel (7) 8615 779, 8615 062. 9am–7pm daily. 1 Jan, 1 May. (with charge)

The White Room

*#510&+52.#;6*' '5%76%*'1051(174$10 2#+0#0&6*'%+6;1( #8#0##0&+5&'%14#6'& 9+6* 6*#0& 6* %'0674;'+55'0 214%'.#+0

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The Espada Cemetery Room

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The portico pavement/#&'1(

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8-45<.3)4<4+9-*Casa del Agua la Tinaja<-.(-+47 (*39:7.*8-&8'**38*11.3,<*11 <&9*75:7.+.*)'>;*7>41)':9 89.116:.9**++.(.*39(*7&2.( +.19*78*=9)447La Mina 7*89&:7&398*7;*8+44)&3) (4(09&.184:9)4478&3) '7.,-9*38:59-*<-41*'14(0 <.9-1.;*97&).9.43&12:8.( 243,9-*2489+&8(.3&9.3, Wooden “azul avana” blue doors of 8-458.39-.85&794+9-*897**9 the Colonial house at No. 117 .89-*41)5-&72&(>(&11*) Taquechel<-.(-8*118 *73&?&86:&7*9-*7*&7* (482*9.(8&3)3&9:7&1&3) 247*24)*738-4584++*7.3, -42*45&9-.(574):(98&11 *;*7>9-.3,+742*2'74.)*7*) Casa del Agua la Tinaja, vendor of (7*&9*)&3)574):(*).3 8-.79894'4408 purified well water :'& :&.398-*1;*8'4&89& *=9.8El Floridita7*89&: 57*99>(411*(9.434+ 9-&3) 7&39034<3&8@9-* 9-(*39:7>,1&88&3)9&1.&3 (7&)1*4+9-*)&.6:.7.B9<&8 -*7*.39-* 89-&9'&7 2&/41.(&/&78&8<*11&8 Map 4 E2. 2&34389&39*-.8 &1*2'.(8&3)&39.6:* 7*&13&2*<&843 5-&72&(*:9.(&1&3) #-*1.;*1.*89&3)2489 89&39.34!.'&1&.,:& 2*).(&14'/*(98 (-&7&(9*7.89.(897**9.31) 5*7+*(9*)9-*47.,.3&1 4 A .89-* &;&3&.81.0*&143,3&774< 41)*89-4:8*.3 (4(09&.12.=*)'> '7.),*1.30.3,9-*9<4 &,1:(-. &;&3& &7(-.9*(9:7&184:184+9-* #-*3*<89>1* 3*4+9-*2&/47 -.8947.((*397*9-* )&.6:.7.&'1*3)4+ 8.,-98.39-*897**9.8 An old letter box 4143.&1&3)9-*79 <-.9*7:21*243 9-*7*8947*)Hotel at No.115 Ambos Mundos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ld filter, Taquechel 9-*':.1).3,8.9:&9*) pharmacy 439-*(473*74+ &11*+.(.48 #-&308949-*7*(*39 7*8947&9.43<470574249*) '>9-*+.(.3&)*1.8947.&)47 )*1&.:)&)-*&)*)'>9-* (-&7.82&9.(:8*'.4*&1 "5*3,1*7&.2*)&98&1;&,.3, 9-*'*89':.1).3,8.39-*41) &7*&&11*'.854-&8 7*9&.3*)9-**1*,&3(*;.;&(.9> &3)(414:784+9-*4143.&1 5*7.4)*<1>.389&11*)897**9 1.,-9.3,2&0*8+47*3/4>&'1* *;*3.3,897411.3, 51&6:*439-*1*+9-&3) 8.)*4+9-*&1&(.4)*148 &5.9&3*8*3*7&1*8'*&78 6:49&9.4382&)*'>9-*,7*&9 :'&35&97.4948D&79E (43(*73.3,&7.'&1).88945&9 &;&3&5548.9*.89-*82&11 Typical majolica jars on the shelves of the former Sala Museo

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

$

The upper gallery of the Casa de la Obra Pía, with its frescoed walls and polished wood balustrade

&3>(414:7+:11*,*3)8 8:7;.;*(43(*73.3,9-* ':.1).3,85&899<&88&.) Calle Obrapía 157 e/ San Ignacio y 9-&9.3(7*).'1*97*&8:7*8<*7* Mercaderes. Map 4 E2. Tel (7) 8615 Calle Obrapía 158 esq. Mercaderes. 798. 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, -.))*3.3.98<&118&3)9-&9 Map 4 E2. Tel (7) 8613 097. <&.1.3,&3)<**5.3,(4:1)'* 9am–1pm Sun. 1 Jan, 9:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sat, -*&7)+74243*4+9-*74428 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. 9:30am–12:30pm Sun. 1 Jan, 439-*:55*7+1447 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct. 5548.9*9-*&8&)*1& 99-*(473*74+&11* &11*'7&5E&1.9*7&11>-&7.9> '7&5E&&3)&11**7(&)*7*8 '7&E&.8& 9-(*39:7> "97**9<&83&2*)&+9*79-.8 ':.1).3,9-&9<&87*':.19.3 .89-*Casa de México& (:19:7&1(*397*9-&98-4<89-* 94&((4224)&9*&+&2.1> 2&38.43<-48*4<33&2* (148*1.308'*9<**3*=.(4 (422*247&9*89-*5.4:8 4+51&39&9.434<3*78439-* &3):'&9-&8& :55*7+1447&3)&94'&((4 &(9.4384+&79E3 1.'7&7><.9-247* &1;4)*1&:*79&> +&(947><470*)'>81&;*8 9-&3 '4408 77.*9&&<*&19-> 439-*,74:3)+14479.8 &3)&2:8*:2 "5&3.8-34'1*2&3 &557457.&9*9-&99-*':.1).3,.8 ).851&>.3, <-49440:57*8. 34<&2:8*:2(439&.3.3, -&3)2&)*,1&88 )*3(*-*7*.39-* 247*9-&3 4'/*(981.30*) Majolica tile street sign 8.1;*7+&'7.( 2.) 9-(*39:7> 949-*-.8947>4+8:'"&-&7&3 ;*7>>*&7-*,&;* for Calle de la Obrapía 9*77&(499&&3) +7.(&&3)9-*;&7.4:8*9-3.( <44)*34'/*(98 &,*3*74:8)4<7> ,74:589-&9<*7*9&0*394 94+.;*475-&3,.718+479-*294 &891>439-*49-*78.)*4+ :'&4381&;*8-.58&3>4+ 9-*897**9.89-*Casa de :8*94,*92&77.*)47*39*7& 9-*8*.9*28'*143,*)949-* Guayasamín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alo Monte objects (see p23), Casa de Africa )*':9.384(.*9> 894(0*)1.'7&7>

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:5=+8:.':',,58*9'25<+2?
Map 4 F2. Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís Tel (7) 862 9683. 9:30am–6:30pm daily. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec.

58*+8/4-:.+658::./9 6/):;8+97;+97;'8+.'9'4 4*'2;9/'4).'8'):+8'4* +<51+9/3'-+95,'*/9:'4: '-+=.+4-'22+54925'*+* =/:.-52*'4*5:.+8)'8-59+: 9'/2,58"6'/44:.+3/**2+ 5,:.+97;'8+/9:.+Fuente de los Leones35*+22+*54 :.+,'35;9,5;4:'/4/4:.+ 2.'3(8'/48'4'*'#./9 =581(?:.+:'2/'49);26:58 /;9+66+'--/4/='9 *54':+*/4

(?:.+,/9)'2 9;6+8/4:+4*+4:542';*/5 '8:F4+@*+ /4/2259:.+ 5;4:5,$/22'4;+<''4*,58 3'4??+'89/:9;662/+*:.+ 9./69*5)1+*.+8+=/:. *8/41/4-=':+8 #.+58/-/4'2)533+8)/'2 4':;8+5,:.+'8+')'4(+ 9++4/4:=5(;/2*/4-9:.+ *;'4'+4+8'2*+2'!+6G( 2/)':.+52*);9:539.5;9+ (;/2:/4'4*:.+Lonja del Comercio:.+,583+8 9:5)1+>).'4-+=/:.' *53+)85=4+*(?'9:':;+5, +8);8?-5*5,)533+8)+ !+9:58+*/4 :./9(;/2*/4- .5;9+9:.+5,,/)+95,953+5, :.+:56,58+/-4,/83945= 56+8':/4-/4;(' #.+359:/3658:'4:(;/2*/4- /4:.+97;'8+.5=+<+8/9:.+

The Fuente de los Leones, Plaza de San Francisco

Calle San Pedro 262. Map 4 F3. Tel (7) 862 3832, 861 8051. 9am–5pm Mon–Thu, 9am–4pm Fri–Sun. www.havanaclubfoundation.com

B'9:.+.53+5,:.+ 8'4)/9)'4)533;4/:?'4* 6'8:2?8+(;/2:/4:.+9#.+ :.8++'/92+/4:+8/58.'9'':/4 )85992'?5;:'4*)54:'/49953+ #.+*/9:/22+8/+95,'<'4'2;( 6'/4:/4-9(?;4145=4:. :.+359:,'35;9(8'4*5, )+4:;8?;('4'8:/9:9'4*' ;('48;3'8+56+4:5:.+ =55*+49:':;+5,":8'4)/9 6;(2/)'225=/4-*+88':+ Logo of the '4/22;9:8/5;9./9:58/'45, Havana Club )5;8:?'8*5,:.+ Foundation '<'4'2;( :.+5254/'26+8/5* +)';9+5,/:9+>)+6 5;4*':/54,:+8 :/54'2')5;9:/)9:./9).;8). =':)./4-'(8/+,'4*9'362+:.+ :.8++?+'852*8;3 #.+('8=./).'295 9+8<+9+>)+22+4:)5)1 :'/29'4*5,:+4.'92/<+ 3;9/)/956+4,853 '3:53/*4/-.:#.+ 9.569+2298;3-2'99 Interior of the basilica of San Francisco, now used for chamber music concerts ='8+'4*95;<+4/89

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

$

#.+ ./9:58? 5, 8;3 *':+9 (')1 :5 :.+ 5,,+8/4-:.':/9,8+7;+4:2?-/<+4:5:.+ + ' 8 2 ? 9 = . + 4 ' 4 / 3 6 ; 8 + -5*9 5, "#!* !;33'1/4- (+-/49 */9:/22':+='9,/89:5(:'/4+*,8539;-'8 =/:. :.+ 3'/4 (?685*;): 5, 9;-'8 )'4+%/:.:.+'88/<'25, :.+ 9:/)1? '3(+8 6'9:+ ');4*5 ')'8*F " )'22+*352'99+9=./). /9 */2;:+* =/:. =':+8 '4+=:+).4/7;+ '4* ,+83+4:+* ;9/4- 5 , * / 9 : / 2 2 ' : / 5 4 = ' 9 Seal of guarantee of Cuban rum 96+)/'2 ?+'9:9 #.+ /4:85*;)+* '4* ;('4 8;3 ! =+4: 54 :5 +405? /4:+8 A3;9:C :.;9 5(:'/4+* /9 :.+4 */9:/22+* 4':/54'2 9;))+99 !;3 /9 6'8: 5, '4*,/2:+8+*:5685*;)+'4+';*+
The mezcla process

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Special oak barrels!$" !#!""& #"#"##!(!"# ##!$"!! $!!$ #"%(!+ #!#$!$#(% %### !"!!$(!$#

THE TYPES OF RUM +9/*+9"/2<+88?=./)./94583'22? ;9+*/4)5)1:'/29:.+3'81+:5,,+898;3 '-+*,58:.8++?+'89!# ,/<+?+'89!#!'4*9+<+4?+'89 +58+<+4254-+82*8;3=./). /9:.+359:./-.2?68/@+*9.5;2*(+ *8;414+':'4*':8553:+36+8':;8+ =./2+ !#=./)./9:.+359: )533542?9++4)'4(+;9+*/43'4? ='?9'4*/95,:+4*8;41=/:./)+ #.+8+'8+'9958:+*(8'4*95,;('4 8;345:'225,=./).'8+/4:+84':/54'22? 145=42/1+'<'4'2;(

Silver Dry

Carta Blanca

Carta Oro

Añejo

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Calle Cuba 610 e/ Sol y Luz. Map 4 E3. Tel (7) 8613 335. 8:30am– 5pm Mon–Fri. 1 Jan, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. (with charge).

#/,65=,5;6-"(5;(3(9( 0:65,6-;/,63+,:;(5+ 46:;;@70*(363650(39,30.06<: )<03+05.:05;/,,>%693+ #/,*65=,5;6**<70,:( *65:0+,9()3,(9,(6-()(5( $0,1((5+>(:-6<5+,+05 )@"0:;,9(;(305(+, The cloister of the convent of Santa Clara, filled with tropical plants ,5+6A(-964(9;(.,5(+, 5+0(:;66--,99,-<.,-69;/, ),*(4,(9,5*/*0;0A,5(5+ >,(3;/@.093:6-;/,*0;@ (3:6>96;,(;9(=,3)662()6<; #/,73(05,?;,9069>0;/0;: :0473,>05+6>:4(2,:( <)(#/,/6<:,0:56> Map 4 E3. :;90205.*65;9(:;;6;/, <:,+-69(9;,?/0)0;065:#/, #/0::8<(9,>(:3(0+6<;05 05;,9069>/0*//(:( :7(*06<::(36565;/,-09:;

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asa del Conde Jaruco)<03;05 3(9(;/,5;/,*0;@:.6=,9569 +,*69(;,+0563650(3:;@3, (9;:6-;/,)<03+05.(9,67,5 C#/0:>(:;/,/64, ,(9)@(9,;>6*<3;<9(3 6-;/,6<5;,::+,,9305( 05:;0;<;065:(*,5;9,-69=0:<(3 ;6;/,7<)30*)<;0;*(556;), :,,5050;:,5;09,;@ <)(5964(5;0*56=,30:;>/6 (9;:(5+(7/6;6.(33,9@

Façade of Casa del Conde Jaruco, with typical mediopunto stained-glass windows on the first floor For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

$

796;,*;696-4(5205+>/6 047(9;:>0:+64(5+/(9465@ 5;/,(;/630*:(05;:-,(:; +(@ ",7;,4),9 -6336>,9:*64,+9,::,+(3305 >/0;,C;/,*636<9(::6*0(;,+ >0;/))(;(3E

Calle Leonor Perez 314, esq. Egido. Map 4 E4. Tel (7) 8613 778, 8615 095. 9am–7pm daily. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. (with charge). www.cult.cu/patrim/cnpc/museos/marti

#/0:46+,:; ;/*,5;<9@ )<03+05.05;/, (<3(8<(9;,9 5,(9;/,769;),*(4,( 5(;065(3465<4,5;;/(52:;6 ;/,:7,*0(3/0:;690*04769;(5*, (;;(*/,+;66:F(9;G >/60:;/,6)1,*;6-.9,(; 7(;906;0*=,5,9(;065#/,(<;/69 (5+5(;065(3/,96>/6+0,+ 05*64)(;65 (@ +<905.;/,>(9:6-05+,7,5 +,5*,(.(05:;;/,"7(50:/ The nave of the Iglesia de la Merced, illuminated by small light bulbs >(:)695/,9,05 -;,9 05;/,*0;@05>/0*/;/, /0:+,(;//0:46;/,9,6569 69/,9)(30:;/,(3,9: F9,A30=,+05;/,)<03+05. :,33=6;0=,6)1,*;:(5+=(906<: (5+>/,5:/,+0,+0;>(: /,9):;/(;(9,<:,+46:;3@05 9,5;,+;69(0:,465,@;6)905. Calle Cuba esq. Acosta. Map 4 E3. ;/,36*(3-96<)(59,30.06<: <7/,9.9(5+*/03+9,55 Tel (7) 8624 310. 8am–noon, 90;,: 0;>(:7<9*/(:,+)@;/, 3–6pm daily. 6pm Thu, 5pm 4<50*07(30;@(-;,9*0;@>0+, Sat, 10:30am Sun. -<5+9(0:05.(5+>(:;<95,+ 05;6(4<:,<465 (5<(9@ #/,/<9*/6-;/,63@/6:;

)<;.6=,954,5;-<5+05. :7G90;<"(5;60:6-/0:;690*(3 653@),*(4,:<--0*0,5;>0;/ 04769;(5*,(:65,6-;/,63+,:; ;/,(+=,5;6-(:;96 (;/630**/<9*/,:05(=(5( #/,/6<:,/(:),,59,:;69,+ ;>(:)<03;05 )@:64, ),(<;0-<33@(5+=0:0;69:*(5 Calle Cuba 806. Map 4 E3. -9,,+-90*(5:3(=,:#/(52:;6 Tel (7) 8638 873. 8am–noon, =0,>-<950;<9,7(05;05.:(5+ (7(7(3)<33(5+(96@(3+,*9,, 3–8pm daily. 9am daily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Paseo de Martí (Prado) y San Rafael, Central Havana. Map 4 D2. Tel (7) 8613 078. 9am–5pm daily. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. (with charge).

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Salón de los Pasos Perdidos

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Parliament

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$0-;8)+17=;):-)7./:--6-:A *-016,<0-)81<74?); +)44-,)587,1):<-!):),- :7=6,16<0- <0+-6<=:A *-+)=;-1):)6,%# 8:-;1,-6<*:)0)516+746 6<0-51,,4-7.<0-8):31;) /)<-?1<0)84)9=-*-):16/)6 -@07:<)<176*A7;H):-:16<0-,-8<0;7.<0- 6,-;!-784-;=61<-764A <0:7=/0*76,;7..:1-6,;018 .:)<-:61-E-A76, <0-/)<-1;)576=5-6<<7 5-:1+)6.:1-6,;018)6, ;741,):1-;<)3-6<7<0--?'7:4, D84)6<-,0-:-):7=6, 6.:76<7.<0-;9=):-1; )?01<-5):*4-.7=6<)16 ;+=48<-,16 *A1=;-88- )//161$0-.7=6<)161; 367?6);<0-C=-6<-,-4) 6,1)E7:C)7*4-)*)6)ED )6)44-/7:1+)4:-8:-;-6<)<1767. <0-+1)<- <)@1;

Façade of the Partagás cigar factory with its prominent pediments

)6,<0-8:72-+<.)14-,1; .)+<7:A?);<0-68=:+0);-,*A )67<0-:;0:-?,*=;16-;;5)6 ")5J61.=-6<-;4)67 Calle Industria 524. Map 4 D3. 7B-6;7.8-784-?7:3 Tel (7) 863 5766. 9:30–11am, 16<0-):75).144-,16<-:17: 12:30–3pm Mon–Fri. 1 Jan, 1 May, 7?),)A;<0-:-1;67476/-: 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. ;75-76-:-),16/)47=,<7 =*);4):/-;<+1/):.)+<7:A )44->1)<-<0-5767<76A7.<0- ?1<01<;-74);;1+)4 ?7:3*A-6<-:<)1616/)6, .)G),-1;)/77,-@)584- -,=+)<16/<0-?7:3-:;);?); 7. <0+-6<=:A16,=;<:1)4 <0-+);-16<0- <0+-6<=:A ):+01<-+<=:--:<0-:-1; )47=,;8-)3-: *=;16-;;5)6 <0)<)4<-:6)<-; )15-!):<)/F; :-),16/8);;)/-; ")>-47 7? Neon sign at the ?1<05=;1+)6, ->-:0-6->-: Partagás cigar factory 6-?;76<0-:),17 :->-)4-,<0- 766-+<-,<7<0- ;7=:+-;7.01; <7*)++74-)>-;7:07?<0-A .)+<7:A1;));),-4)*)67 ?-:-8:7+-;;-,$0-764A )6-@+-44-6<;078?1<0) 16.7:5)<176<0)<;=:>1>-;1; *)+3:775<0)<1;=;-,.7: <0)<0-?);<0-.1:;<8-:;76<7 ;)58416/+1/):; =;-?77,-6*)::-4;<7 .-:5-6<<0-4-)>-;167:,-:<7 0-1/0<-6<0-):75) '1<0<0-8:7.1<;5),- .:7501;01/09=)4116+-7.!16):,-4 "I7 -?)6<-,<77>-:;--)44 Map 4 D3. to the public. );8-+<;7.<0-+1/):5)316/ $01;5)6;176 ?); 8:7+-;;8-:;76)44A.:75 ,-;1/6-,*A)6=-47;H /:7?16/<0-84)6<;<7<0- )::-:))6,*=14<16<0- 84)+16/7.) 51,,4-7.<0- <0+-6<=:A ?:)88-:4-). 0)>16/*--6+7551;;176-,*A ):7=6,<0-.144-: <0-:1+0);9=-16,=;<:1)41;< )6,*16,-: 4-)>-;:744-,*A 7516/7,-4,)5)A ::-+0)/)-0),<7,-8-6, <0- 7601;16.4=-6<1)4.:1-6,;16 7?->-: 7:,-:<77*<)168-:51;;176<7 !):<)/F;?); *=14,01;:-;1,-6+-16.:76<7. );;);;16)<-,16 <0-)587,1):<-7: 5A;<-:17=; The Fuente de la India symbolizing Havana !):),-:7=6,?01+0?); +1:+=5;<)6+-;

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

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:-;-:>-,.7:5141<):A)6, -;1/6-,*A17>)661 ),5161;<:)<1>-*=14,16/;$0- )<<1;<) 6<76-441=)6,- 576=5-6<)4/:)6,-=:7.<01; $-2-,))6,:1;<J*)4,-"7,) )6,*=14<16 D 11+-),,-,*A<0- :-9=-;<<0-87:<-: <)41)6-6/16--:6<76-441 )447?;>1;1<7:;<7/716<7 16<0-4)<- <0+-6<=:A <0-+7=:-5):*4- .7:<:-;;-;-:)4576=5-6<;<0)<):- See pp86–7. 57:-1587:<)6<01;<7:1+)44A <0)6):<1;<1+)44A6<0-51,,4- 1;<0--9=-;<:1)6;<)<=-7. -6-:)41;;157F@157J5-B <0-0-:77.<0-?):;7. 16,-8-6,-6+-*A<)41)6 ;+=48<7: 4,7)5*) -016,<01;),14)81,)<-, Malecón y Paseo de Martí (Prado). +0)8-41;=;-,,)14A.7:;<)58 Map 4 D1. Tel (7) 8603 196. -@01*1<176;)6,01;<7:A4-+<=:-; Closed for restoration until <7:1/16)44A*-476/-,<7<0- approximately late 2008. "-)4F:+-48:1;76?0-:-7;H ):-:;1>-)+<1>1<1-;)/)16;< 76<0-?-;<*)637.<0- <0-#8)61;0+:7?6#75-+-44; 87:<-6<:)6+-<01;.7:<:-;; ;<144;<)6,);,7-;);-+<176 5)3-;)61,-)4 7.<0-?)44)/)16;-5*-: );8=61;05-6<.7: -4->)<-,87;1<1766-):<0- :-*-4416/)/)16;<#8)61;0:=4- :7),6<0-8);<1<84)A-,) +-67<)8016<0-1:0767=: +:=+1)4:74-16<0-,-.-6+- ;<)6,;16<0-74=5*=; ;A;<-57.<0-+)81<)4*=< +-5-<-:A <7,)A1<1;)6)>)45=;-=5

The Castillo de la Punta ramparts and the Morro fortress behind

The Museo de la Música, an example of eclectic architecture

Calle Capdevila 1, e/ Habana y Aguiar. Map 4 E1. Tel (7) 8619 846, 8630 052. Closed for restoration until approximately late 2008.

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

8

H A V A N A

A R E A

BY

A R E A

m Pa Paseo del Prado o The most picturesque boulevard in Havana is popular in the daytime for a gentle stroll and gossip in the shade of the trees, and at sunset is one of the locals' main haunts. The Marquis de la Torre had the Paseo laid out in 1772 outside the city walls, and it rapidly became the favourite spot for city aristocrats to take their carriage rides. Bands were positioned in five spots along the boulevard to play for their enjoyment. The Paseo was used for military and carnival parades in the 19th century, when the paving was redone. In 1927 the French architect Forestier designed the Prado as we see it today: it was widened and lined with bronze lions and marble benches.

J Lions E i „ h t iions> symbolizing Havana were added in J 5 2 7 , together with the marble benches near the Teatro Fausto.

Casa del Científico,

residence of Jose Miguel Gomez, second President of the Republic of Cuba, is now a small hotel.

IVJHSI Hotel Sevilla This historic hotel opened in 1908 and a ten-storey tower was added in 1918. It is a homage to Moorish architecture: thefagade and hall decoration are mudejar (see p24) in style.

Palacio de los Matrimonios Named after the civil weddings celebrated on the first floor, this Neo-Baroque building was inaugurated in 1914 as the Casino Espahol For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252-6 and

pp276-9

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Calle Compostela 2, esq. Cuarteles. Map 4 D2. Tel (7) 8610 469. 9am–noon & 3–6pm Tue–Fri, 4–7pm Sat, 9–10:30am Sun. 6pm Thu–Sat, 9am Sun.

Children playing in the shade during school break

Home of Dr Carlos Finlay<-4

).8(4;*7*)9-&9 2486:.94*8857*&) >*114<+*;*7

60

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

The Teatro Fausto<&8':.19

.3 4;*79-* +4:3)&9.4384+ &341)9-*&97*4+ 9-*8&2*3&2*

# . +*-/$* 0$'$)".2 - 0$'/ '*)"/# 1 )0 $)/# '/ /#/* -'3 /# )/0-3.+-$1/ #*( . # 3#1 )- !0''3- ./*- )/# *-$"$)'-$"#/+./ '*'*0-. #1 )-*0"#/&/*'$!

The bell tower and spires of the church of Ángel Custodio

GRAHAM GREENE IN HAVANA

' ")/2-*0"#/ $-*)./- /'(+. 2 - $) /*" /# - 2$/#/# (0'/$ *'*0- (-' +1 ( )/

#-*(1&88.(*85.43&,*9-7.11*70-)$)1) '>9-*3,1.8-&:9-477&-&27**3*.8&3*=(*11*39 )*8(7.59.434+&;&3&&99-**;*4+9-*!*;41:9.4339-* '4407**3*3&77&9*89-*&);*39:7*84+& ;&(::2(1*&3*78&1*82&3<-4 '*(42*8&8*(7*9&,*39&,&.389-.8 <.11#-*34;*1.8.2':*)<.9-&)7> 8*38*4+-:24:7&3).88*9&,&.389 &3.397.,:.3,*3;.7432*39+.11*)<.9- (&8.348&3)74:1*99*<-**18*< %47080>8(7&5*78&3))*(&)*3979 4:;*&:;.11&8(&'&7*98&3) 57489.9:9.43#-*49*1"*;.11& .8&(4389&3957*8*3(*.39-* Graham Greene (1904–91) '&(0,74:3)

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*'+&'#1(2655+0)5*'64'6/1(5*''71.65+10+0 5*'(13/'323'4+&'05+#.2#.#%'1(5*'&+%5#5136.)'0%+1 #5+45#8#4%.'#3.:4:/$1.+%'4+)0'&$:5*'6$#0 #3%*+5'%51&1.(1#363+#0&5*''.)+#0#3%*+5'%5#6. '.#65*'$6+.&+0)8#4+0#6)63#5'&+0 $:#3+1 #3%=#'01%#.#0&+53'/#+0'&5*'3'4+&'0%'(13 15*'323'4+&'054605+. *'$6+.&+0)*#4'1.#44+%#. '.'/'054#0&8#4&'%13#5'&$: +((#0:1('8"13-5 %105#+04813-4$:5*'.'#&+0)6$#0&'%13#51341(5*' '#3.: 4#0&$:4%6.2513446%*#46#014<+%3' 45'$#0'5#0%1635#0&'30#0&11#&# *'/64'6/ ('#563'4&1%6/'0542*151)3#2*4#0&/'/13#$+.+# 23'4'05+0)#017'37+'81(5*'6$#044536)).'(13 +0&'2'0&'0%'(31/5*'1.10+#.2'3+1&10$65 (1%64+0)+02#35+%6.#3105*''71.65+10 (31/5*')6'33+..#8#3515*' 2'%+#.'3+1&+05*' 4

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The third floor

%105#+04 5*'1.&'45 2*1514#0& /'/13#$+.+#

The side wing1(5*'

2#.#%'8#4 *1/'51 #5+45#41((+%'

GRANMA MEMORIAL *'.#3)').#44#0&%'/'052#7+.+10+05*'53''.+0'&2.#;# $'*+0&5*'/64'6/%105#+045*':#%*5(%$0#/'& #(5'3+54(+345180'34)3#0&/15*'30 5*+4$1#5 $316)*5+&'.#4531#0&41/'1(*+4%1/3#&'4(31/ '9+%1516$#51$')+05*'#3/'&4536)).'#)#+045 #5+45#)' *'3'#3'#.411$,'%54#0&7'*+%.'4 3'.#5+0)515*'+07#4+101(5*' #:1(+)4 3'/#+041( #0/'3+%#042:2.#0'4*15 &180+0 &63+0)5*'/+44+.' %3+4+4#0&5*'&'.+7'3:536%-5*#5 8#464'&$:3'71.65+10#3+'451 #55#%-5*'2#.#%'+0 The American spy plane on display

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

STAR FEATURES

Salón de los Espejos

Main Staircase

!%)!&* &$ ,!)!#(&$* )*!() &%)!)*)&$+#*!&#&+( ($!)*!%#+)&+( '%#)&(*/ )*%#(($ %(!%&!+# &%01#0!%)* &## "(&+%

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Calle Refugio 1, e/ Avenida de las Misiones y Zulueta. Map 4 D2. Tel (7) 862 4091. 10am–5pm daily.

The second floor)+7'4 #017'37+'81(6$#0 623+4+0)4(31/5*'1.10+#. 2'3+1&515*''71.65+10

!%-!* ,)*$!((&() '42',14* ('*!&% ## &* &($('()!%*!# '# )!#!%()&) /+%'!%*() ($&%&#% %*&%!&&(2+0&(/

The tall windows#3'4+/+.#351 5*14'+05*'3#0 '#531&'# #$#0##0&8'3'&'4+)0'&$: 5*'4#/'#3%*+5'%5#6.'.#6 The terrace12214+5'5*'

#.>0&'.1442',14*#4#(+0' 7+'81(5*'#:1(#7#0# Entrance

$&%+$%*#)*!()- ! #)*&* !()*#&&()*!## ()$(")&* +##*)) &* ( &%( +(!%%**" /)&$(,&#+*!&%(/+%!,()!*/ )*+%*)&%$!))!&%*&"!##*!)* !**&($%*&), !)#!/)'!%*&* +''(#&&()

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186.*+>25-270*5<8 478@7*<=1.D* *6*-.2.;;8F ;87*-B+.,*><. 2=@*<=1./2;<==8+. Calle Zulueta 106, e/ Paseo de Martí +>25=@2=1*6.=*5 (Prado) y Colón. Map 4 D2. Tel (7) <=;>,=>;.27=1.5*=. 873 0131. 9am–3pm Mon–Fri. <E.*;5B < 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 25 Dec. &2<2=8;<,*7=*4.* reduced fees for groups. =8>;8/=1./*,=8;B Humidor and bar 9am–5pm *7-8+<.;?.=1.@8;4 Mon–Sat; 9am–3pm Sun. 8/=1..A9.;==8+*,,8 5.*/;855.;<478@7*< %1.8;2027*520>.5 &*;28>< .;7G7-.C#820,20*; ,20*;<684270 /*,=8;B478@7*7-.-27 9>;,1*<.-1.;.*< /=.;;*-2,*5,1*70.<27 @.55*<1201:>*52=B =1.=8@795*7,*><.-+B=1. /;.<15B6*-.,20*;< -.6852=2878/=1.,2=B@*55< $684.;<,*7*5<8 =1./*,=8;B68?.-=8=1. .738B*,20*;27=1. "*5*,28 5-*6*

+*;@1.;.=1.;.*;. The austere interior of Iglesia de la Caridad =1.727 2=68?.-*0*27 /27.1>62-8;62-2/2.-278;-.;=8 .7<>;.9;89.;<=8;*0.*7- Map 3 C3. 9;.<.;?*=2878/=1.,20*;< %1.127.<.:>*;=.;8/ *?*7*=1.*;;281278 @12,178@8,,>92.<*<6*55 *;.*-./27.-+B$*7 2,85G< The old sign of the prestigious ;*087.<)*73**7-#*B8 See pp92–5. La Corona cigar factory <=;..=<-.?.589.-27=1. =1 ,.7=>;B72=<1.B-*B27=1. .*;5B <=1.;.@*<* THE CHINESE COMMUNITY IN HAVANA ,>5=>;*5*<<8,2*=2879.;/8;6270 %1./2;<=127.<.*;;2?.-27>+*27=1.62- <=8@8;4 95*B<*7-89.;*<*7-*,*<278 27=1.<>0*;27-><=;B*7-=1.B@.;.=;.*=.-524.<5*?.<%1. %1.,858>;/>5<=;..=<@.;./>55 /2;<==80*27=1.2;/;..-86+.0*7=8,>5=2?*=.<6*55958=<8/ 8/?.7-8;<8//;2==.;<*7-8=1.; 5*7-27*?*7*787.8/=1.<.7.*;=1.9;.<.7=-*B*55. <2*7<9.,2*52=2.<*7-9.895. $*5>-=1.B0;.@>+*B=1.+.<=/;>2= 266.-2*=.<9.,=*,>5*;<>,,.<<127.<.;.<=*>;*7=<+.0*7=8 *7-/;.<1.<=/2<127=1.,2=B *99.*;27=1.*;.**/=.;=1.<.,87-@*?.8/127.<. %8-*B*55=1.127.<.<189< *;.,87,.7=;*=.-27=1.<8 26620;*7=<*;;2?.-/;86*52/8;72* E *;6.-@2=1 ,*55.->,12558-.)*73**;.* =1.2;6.;2,*7<*?270<'2=18>=58<270*7B8/=1.2;,>5=>;*5 =;*-2=287<=1.127.<.,866>72=B1*<+.,86.*<<2625*=.- =1.27=.;<.,=2878/)*73**7- 27=8>+*7<8,2.=B*,,.9=270*7-<1*;270=1.2<5*7-<58= #*B8*62A=>;.8/=1.8;2.7=*5 +5*,40;*72=.,85>67*==1.,8;7.;8/*55.27.**7-*55. *7-=1.=;892,*5=1.*;,12 =.,=>;.18@.?.;2<78= ;.6.6+.;<=1.127.<.@18/8>01=/8;>+*727-.9.7-.7,. 9*;=2,>5*;5B,1*;*,=.;2<=2, .A,.9=/8;=1.:>*;=.;0*=. @12,11*<*9*08-*;88/ 78=1.;6>,168;.269;.< <2?.270*7-1270<=B5. 98;=2,8@*<.;.,=.-27 *= =1.,8;7.;8/*55.;*087.< *7-*55.62<=*-=2<*568<= 6 /=@2-.*7-@*< -87*=.-=8>+*+B=1. 127.<.08?.;76.7= %1. *;;2812782<*5<8 186.=8=1.Iglesia de la Caridad-.-2,*=.-=8>+*< 9*=;87<*27=

%1. ,1>;,1*5<81*<*989>5*; <=*=>.*&2;027@2=1<2*7 Entrance gate to Barrio Chino, the Chinese quarter in Havana /.*=>;.<+;8>01=1.;.27 =1.62- <

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

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Callejón de Hammel, famous for its exotic and colourful murals

" Avenida Simón Bolívar (Reina) 463. Map 3 B3. Tel (7) 8624 979. 7:30am–noon, 3–6pm daily. 8am, 4:30pm Mon–Sat, 8am, 9:30am, 4:30pm Sun.

1*<.5*+8;*=.<=*27.-05*<< @27-8@<7*;;*=270=1.52/.8/ 1;2<=*7-*@.*5=18/<=>,,8 @8;4*7-9827=.-*;,1.< BC*7=27.<=B5.$*,;.-.*;= @2=1<,>59=>;.<8/<*27=<*7- 9;891.=<2<87=1.1201*5=*;

" Map 3 A2.

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/=1201=1. ;.7,1.;6*7;.<2-.7= 1>;,18/=1.$*,;.-.*;= (Avenida Salvador Allende) Map 3 B3. ,*55.-.;7*7-8*66.5* ,*7+.<..7/;86?*;28><9*;=< @.*5=1B*;6<-.*5.;=>;7.- 8/=1.,2=B=@*<-.<207.-27 *2-8>=27 ->;270 6.;,1*7=@18=884=1. ;.-.?.5896.7=>7-.;=1. =1..*;5B <+B=1..<>2= .7=2;.:>*;=.;>7-.;12< @270%1.,858>;/>5 <>9.;?2<2878/*9=*27 9;2.<=>2<8;08C**7- ,87<.,;*=.-27 *7-2<* 20>.5-.%*,J7=12<

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0ALACIO DEL#ENTRO !STURIANO

LOCATOR MAP See Street Finder, map 4, p123

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PALACIO DEL CENTRO ASTURIANO 52/0%!.0!).4).' !.$3#5,0452%4/'%4(%2 7)4(4(%#/,,%#4)/./& !.#)%.4!24!2%/.$)30,!9 ).4(%%.42/3452)!./ $%3)'.%$). "94(% !2#()4%#4!.5%,534/3

STAR SIGHTS

La Silla by Wifredo Lam

La Habana en Rojo by René Portocarrero

Panathenaean Amphora

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Palacio del Centro Asturiano, San Rafael, e/ Zulueta y Monserrate. Palacio de Bellas Artes, Calle Trocadero, e/ Zulueta y Monserrate. Map 4 D2. Tel (7) 861 3858, 863 9484. Fax (7) 8613 857. 10am–6pm Tue–Sat, 10am–2pm Sun. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec.

The permanent collection"+"+($0

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Clotilde en los Jardines de la Granja by Joaquín Sorolla

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'$%,C6/==+8.<9 +18+=-9 F +8. #!%&$%%,C39@+883 +>>3=>+"3+DD/>>+ #&"!"&"!,C '3>>9<3-+6 -97:9=3>398 %2/+8-3/8>+<>=/->3983= +6=90+=-38+>3813+8A9<5= +=A/66+=/=9:9>+73+8 "29/83-3+8+8.>2-/8>?2/ +C9?7:9<><+3>=+/381 PALACIO DE BELLAS ARTES (CUBAN ART)

One of the many views that Canaletto painted of London For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

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SIGHTS AT A GLANCE KEY

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75'1&'46'5'%14#6+8#5 75'1 #21.'@0+%1

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A3>23>=398+C6/ For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

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ITINERARY

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

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Departure: Hotel Nacional. Arrival: corner of 23 y 12. Length: 3.5 km (2 miles). Where to eat: Coppelia icecream parlour, Casa de la Amistad, one of the bars at the corner of 23 y 12. It is advisable to plan stops and museum visits for the (hot) middle of the day. Museo de la Danza Tel (7) 8312 198. 11am–6:30pm Tue–Sat. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 25 Dec.

The constant queue for the Coppelia ice-cream parlour

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23 y 12

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The permanent poster exhibition in the ICAIC building

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The Art Deco building that is the home of the Casa de las Américas

Calle 3ra, esq. G. Map 1 C1. Tel (7) 552 706, 552 707. 10am–5pm Mon–Fri. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec.

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=1.*7C*7*-.H6.C $1.6*7<287@*<+>25= 27 *7-2<@.55@8;=1* ?2<2=/8;2=<;.7,1"8,8,8 Calle 27 de Noviembre (Jovellar) y 8>2<'&/>;72<1270<*<@.55 Ronda. Map 2F2. Museo *5270,5*<<.<*7- 1–4pm Mon–Fri. 1 Jan, 1 May, @.*5=1B,855.,=8;<8/=1. 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. 85872*59.;28-*38;@8;4< $1.%72?.;<2=B8/*?*7* 8/*;=1.;.27,5>-.=@8 @*7-.->7-.;=1. 9*27=270<+B>+.;= "8+.;= *><92,.<8/*9*9*5+>5527

*7- *7-@*<272=2*55B *7- 18><.-27=1.86272,*7 =@8 =1,.7=>;B+;87C. <,>59=>;.<27=1./8B.; 687*<=.;B8/#=817 $1.6*271*5587=1. *=.;*727=1.1.*;=8/ 8>2<'&<=B5.0;8>7- *+*7* &2.3*7 /588;1*<=1,.7=>;B */.@-*B<*/=.;=1. 127.<.?*<.<.2<<.7 9;8,5*6*=2878/=1. 98;,.5*27*5*;0. >+*7 ".9>+52,2=@*< >+><<87,*;9.=-*=270 =;*7=252C.-*<*7 +.-;88687 .A958<2?.<<=8;.27=1. =1.0;8>7-/588; 85872*59.;28- Chinese porcelain, 185-<*,855.,=287 $1.7.@>72?.; Museo de Artes 8/127.<.<,;..7< <2=B18><.-27 Decorativas @125.=1.8>7=.<<< ?*;28><+>25-270< ;886/.*=>;.<* @*<+>25=[email protected] <.,;.=*2;.=1*=87,.+.5870.- *7- 7/;87=8/=1. 6*27.7=;*7,.78@=1.?.7>. =8*;2.7=827.==. *<=+>=78=5.*<=2<=1.9274 /8;9852=2,*5-.687<=;*=287< *7-,87,.;=<2<=1.56* 6*;+5. ;=.,8+*=1;886 *=.;=1.5-78=+.62<<.-

Calle 17, 502. Map 2 D2. Tel (7) 8309 848. 10:30am–6pm Tue–Sat, 9am– 1pm Sun. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. (with charge) www.cult.cu/patrim/cnpc/museos

$1.@87-.;/>5><.>68/ .,8;*=2?. ;=<2<18><.-27 =1./8;6.;;.<2-.7,.8/ 87.8/=1.@.*5=12.<=>+*7 @86.78/=1.=1,.7=>;B =1.8>7=.<<-.".?255*-. *6*;08<2<=.;8/8
The Neo-Classical foyer of the Museo de Artes Decorativas

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

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The austere façade of the University of Havana, with the statue of the Alma Mater at the top of the staircase

%72?.;<2=B$12<<=*=>.8/ *@86*7@2=11.;*;6< 8>=<=;.=,1.-27*0.<=>;.8/ @.5,86.@*<,*<=27 27 .@ (8;4+B=1.C.,1 <,>59=8;*;288;+.5=@*< 27<=*55.-*==1.=898/=1. +;8*-0;*72=.<=*2;@*B=1*= /8;6<=1..7=;*7,.=8=1. ,8695.A27 $1.<=>-.7= .7=;*7,.=8=1.>72?.;<2=B2< 27*55.#*7DC*;8@12,1 +;8*-.7<8>=27=8*7 89.7<9*,.@1.;.=1. *<1.<8/>5287=8728 .55* *;.4.9= +./8;.<589270>9@*;-< 7=1.#,2.7,.*,>5=B =1..529. 8.B><.>6 8/ *=>;*5 2<=8;B2< 89.7=8?2<2=8;</ 6>,10;.*=.;27=.;.<= 18@.?.;2<=1.Museo

Calle San Miguel 1159, esq. a Ronda. Map 2 F3. Tel (7) 8791 412, 8791 460. 9am–4:30pm Tue–Sat, 9am–12:30pm Sun. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. (with charge). www.cult.cu/patrim/cnpc/museos

Avenida Carlos III (Salvador Allende) y Luaces. Map 2 F3. Tel (7) 8798 850. Closed for restoration. Grounds 7am–7pm Tue–Sun.

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A parade in front of the Ministerio del Interior, Plaza de la Revolución

Map 2 E5.

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Ministerio del Interior Calle Aranguren.

Palacio de la Revolución Calle Martí.

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Museo Postal Cubano Ave Rancho Boyeros, 19 de Mayo y 20 de Mayo. Tel (7) 882 8223. 9am–5pm Mon–Fri. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. (with charge).

The elegant wooden card-index files in the Biblioteca Nacional

$12<.>61*<8,,>92.-*<6*55 ,8;7.;8/=1.272<=;B8/ 866>72,*=287<<27,. $1;8>01=1.6.-2>68/ <=*69<2=255><=;*=.<=1.5*<= =@8,.7=>;2.<8/>+*7 12<=8;B/;86=1..7-8/=1. 85872*59.;28-=8=1.B.*;< /8558@270=1./*558/=1..;527 '*5527,5>-270=1.@*;<8/ 27-.9.7-.7,.*7-/20>;.< 524.*,1*-8*=2<=**7- 1.>.?*;* $1.68<=,>;28><2=.687 -2<95*B2<*/;*06.7=8/* D98<=*562<<25.F7 * 0;8>98/>+*7<-.,2-.-=8 ><.*62<<25./8;D.A9;.<< *2;6*25-.52?.;2.==1. ,;>-.-.?2,..A958-.-*/.@ 627>=.<*/=.;D=*4.8//F

Biblioteca Nacional José Martí Plaza de la Revolución. Tel (7) 555 442. 8:15am–6pm Mon–Sat.

$1.85*;5B <=;87027=1.1>6*72=2.<$1. %72=.-#=*=.<.6+*;0895>< =1.#9.,2*5!.;28-,;2<2<1*?. <[email protected]=1.-.?.5896.7=8/* 52+;*;B,869>=.;2C*=287 9;80;*66.+>=*55<.;?2,.< *;.+.27068-.;72C.- Teatro Nacional Paseo y 39. Tel (7) 8796 011, 8793 558.

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

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Panorama The Memorial

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La Milagrosa

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Chapel of the Six Medical Students

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Tomb of the author Alejo Carpentier (1904–80)

Entrance

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Calle Zapata esq a Calle 12. Map 1 C5. Tel (7) 830 4517. 8am–5pm daily.

Panteón de los Prelados

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Tomb of Generalissimo Máximo Gómez (see p44)

STAR SIGHTS

Main Entrance La Piedad de Rita Longa

Las Víctimas de la Caridad

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SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Museums

Towns and Suburbs

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The lighthouse at Castillo del Morro, which can be seen from many parts of the old city

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Looking down Avenida 5, the main avenue in Miramar

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The compact Fuerte de la Chorrera

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Dolphins performing at the Miramar aquarium

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

Point of departure: Fuerte de la Chorrera, Malecón. Length: 5 km (3 miles). Stops: Mesón La Chorrera, Calle Calzada 1252, before the tunnel; Cafetería Rumbos, Playita 16; Bar Media Noche, Calle 4 e/ Ave 3 y 5; Bar Dos Gardenias, Ave 7 y Calle 28.

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The model of Havana: in the foreground, Castillo del Morro, behind, the Malecón

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The early 20th-century Fountain of the Muses at the Tropicana

Calle 72 e/ 41 y 45. Marianao. Tel (7) 2671 717, 2670 110.

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Aerial view of the Castillo del Morro, situated on a rocky headland at the entrance to the bay of Havana

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Fuerte de Cojímar Castillo del Morro

EASTERN HAVANA

Carlos Castillo San de La de la Punta de Castillo la Real Fuerza

Fuerte de Santa Dorotea de Luna en La Chorrera

Castillo de Atarés

BAY OF HAVANA

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Carretera de la Cabaña, Habana del Este. See Castillo del Morro.

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

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de Armas y Fortificaciones

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The Cañonazo ceremony, a commemoration in historic costume

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Havana. 47,000. from Muelle de la Luz, Habana Vieja, every 30 mins; (7) 977 473. Infotur, Calle Albuquerque esq. Calixto Garcia, (7) 970 297.

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Interior of the Regla church with its ornate high altar

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LA VIRGEN DE REGLA %0-'1:/167.#-/4)0);*--6<0- 8)<:76;)16<7..1;0-:5-6)6, )>)6);16+- %0- -7 4);;1+)4;)6+<=):A,-,1+)<-, <70-:+76<)16;)61+767.) ,):3;3166-,'1:/16074,16/) ?01<-+014,<0)<<0-.)1<0.=4 +)44C) -/:)E%0-1+76; 7:1/16;):-67<367?6*=<76- 4-/-6,;=//-;<;1<)+9=1:-,1<; +747=:?014-*-16/<)3-6 )+:7;;<0-4)+3$-)%0- ;<)<=-?);*:7=/0<.:75$8)16 *A)0-:51<16 )6,16<0- ;?);?)<+0-,7>-:*A) +-:<)16")6+01<)F:,-6); ?07;-57,-;<075-6-@<<7 La Virgen de Regla, the protector of fishermen <0-+0=:+01;67?78-6<7 ?7:;0188-:;7:.7447?-:;7. <0-'1:/-6,-#-/4)1;)4;7(-5)AF<0-8)<:76-;;7. <0-;-))6,57<0-:7.)445-6<7?075.77,.47?-:; +)6,4-;)6,;?--<;):-7..-:-,!60-:.-);<,)A$-8<0- 1+761;*7:6-<0:7=/0<0-<7?6 For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

de Guanabacoa

Calle Martí 108, esq. Versalles. Tel (7) 979 117. 10am–6pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun.

Havana. 20,100.

Hotel Panamericano Resort, (7) 951 000.

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The 17th-century fort at Cojímar

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Havana.

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One of the Playas del Este beaches popular with Havana residents

0 kilometres

Playa El Mégano

KEY

1.5 1.5

0 miles

Major road Mirador Bellomonte

Playa Santa María del Mar Mi Cayito

Playa Boca Ciega

Marina Veneciana

Playa Guanabo

Itabo

VIA BLANCA

462

HAVANA

VIA BLANCA BARRERAS MINAS

CAMPO FLORIDO

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Hemingway wrote "#-')-. ')/-()0&-#(

A lover of cocktails'#(!12 1-,!/&,.)!/#.& #) ;--8 (&&),##. ;--8 ).",-1,-.)(- .",)1 ,)'"#-,))')(." # ." &)),) ." ')-/()-).& "1,#.,"&*.)#(0(. ."#+/#,#

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A marlin fishing tournament

Gregorio Fuentes

1;0-4,->-:AA-):)< <0- -516/?)A ):16)

THE SEA AND FISHING -516/?)A47>-,<0-;-) )6,?);8);;176)<-)*7=< ;?7:,.1;0)6,5):416.1;016/ -8:)+<1;-,<0-;87:144)/-7.72G5):

Ernest Hemingway Martha Gellhorn

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Calle Vigía y Stheinhard, San Francisco de Paula, Havana. San Francisco de Paula. Tel (7) 910 809. 10am– 5:30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–12:30pm Sun. (with charge).

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The façade of Finca La Vigía, surrounded by tropical vegetation

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The living room of Hemingway’s villa, with hunting trophies on the walls

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

' # ) #

Calle 100 y Cortina de la Presa, Arroyo Naranjo, Havana. Tel (7) 442 155, 643 1868. 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. ExpoCuba Tel (7) 549 212. Wed–Sun. Parque Zoológico Nacional Tel (7) 447 613. Wed–Sun.

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The impressive monument to Lenin designed by Lev Korbel

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The tranquil Japanese Garden, part of the Jardín Botánico Nacional For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp252–6 and pp276–9

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Carretera del Rocío km 3, Calabazar, Arroyo Naranjo (Havana). Tel (7) 643 7278. 9am–4:30pm daily. 1 Jan, 26 Jul, 25 Dec.

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The Sanctuary of San Lázaro at El Rincón

7/;8>+*7;.520287< *C*;><,8;;.<987-<=8*+*5K BH8=1<*27=<*;.;.9;.<.7 =.-27/8542,8780;*91B*<85- Calzada de San Antonio km. 23, 6.727=*==.;<*7-,8?.;.- El Rincón, Santiago de las Vegas @2=1<8;.<7=1.,*<.8/=1. (Havana). Tel (683) 2396. /;2,*7<*27==1.<427-2<.*<. 7am–6pm daily. 7am Wed, Fri & @*<<>998<.-5B9>72<16.7= Sun. Feast Day of St Lazarus, Dec /;86 58/2=1./*=1.;8/*55=1. 16 and 17. 08-< /8;=1.<*27=< *->5=.;8><*7-52+.;=27.9*<= %12<<*7,=>*;B-.-2,*=.-=8 7 .,.6+.;=1.<2695. $=*C*;><=1.9*=;87<*27=8/ @12=.<*7,=>*;B@.5,86.< =1.<2,452.<27=1.<6*55 =18><*7-<8/@8;<1299.;< ?255*0.8/5#27,J78>=<2-. @18/58,41.;.=86*4.?8@< $*7=2*08-.5*<'.0*<7.A==8 8;*<4=1.<*27==827=.;,.-. *785-5.9.;<18<92=*578@* /8;=1.6./8;.=1.1201*5=*; -.;6*=85802,*518<92=*5 8;27/;87=8/=1.26*0.8/$= *C*;><@182<,*55.- 8;D=1.62;*,>58>< ITALO CALVINO AND CUBA 87.F*=*<2-.*5=*;9250;26< $*7=2*08-.5*<'.0*<68<=/*68>*;B@*<*5<8=1.+2;=195*,.8/=1.0;.*==*52*7 *7-6*4.8//.;270< 78?.52<==*58*5?278 E 27=*27 .<=..6.-*0;87862<=@18@.7==8>+*27 /8558@270 =8=1.;201=8/=1.<*7,=>*;B 12<*99827=6.7=*<-2;.,=8;8/=1.<=*,2J7A9.;26.7=*5 ,87<2-.;.-62;*,>58><+B -.$*7=2*08-.5*<'.0*<%12<.A9.;26.7=*5/2.5-<=*=287 +.52.?.;<2<><.-=8,>;. ,8?.;.- 1* *,;.<8/5*7-*7-.6958B.- -2<.*<.<*7-.*<.9*27 >72?.;<2=B0;*->*=.<*7-8//2,.@8;4.;<(125.27>+* *;28*5?278/8>7-@*B<8/6*42700.7.=2,269;8?.6.7=< =8<>0*;,*7.*7-27=;8->,.-7.@95*7=<27,5>-270 9>69427*7-5.==>,..*5<8@8;4.-87=8+*,,8,8;7*7- <8;01>6@125.12<@2/.?*@;8=.*;=2,5.<.A18;=270>+*7 @86.7=8.6*7,29*=.=1.6<.5?.<*7-*,:>2;. 7.@-2072=B=1;8>01.->,*=287*7-=;*27270 (1.7=1.*5?278/*625B;.=>;7.-=8 $*7#.6827=*5B=1.B=88478=875B* <87@18@8>5-+.,86.*0;.*=@;2=.; +>=*5<86*708*?8,*-8/5*6 +8B*7=,1.;268B**7-.?.7<>0*; ,*7.<..-<@12,1=1.B,>5=2?*=.- *==1.$*7#.68A9.;26.7=*5 0;2,>5=>;.$=*=2877 =*58*5?278@*<7*6.-* 6.6+.;8/=1.3>;B/8;=1. *<*-.5*<6H;2,*<9;2C. *7-?2<2=.->+*@1.;. 1.;.=>;7.-=812<+2;=195*,. Author Italo Calvino, born at *7-*5<86.=1.>.?*;* The altar of St Lazarus with flowers Santiago de las Vegas

left by worshippers

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CUBAN STREET NAMES #'&'1,-+-,"'!'& -+-"+/(%.-#(',(&"/(-" '( ##%'&''.'( ##% &(+(&&('%1.,('"+ -"#,(.+,#'-"#,!.#-"%--+#, Tile street sign in (%%(01-" (+&+#'+$-, Habana Vieja ' (-",-+-,+#/# #'-('- & 1%('!%($, (+ "!+#%1(.-( -",-+-,#'-"#,#,-+#- #,,1-( (%%(0",-+-,)+%%%-(-", +('-+ '&0#-"('.&+,0"#%-"+(,,,-+-,+ #'#-#-"+0#-"%--+, +(&-((+/' '.&+,-+-,#!',#'-" (+&( ,&%%,-('%($, ,(/!#/((+#'-,-/+1(+'+

Place of interest Other buildings Parking Tourist information Hospital Police station Church Post office Coach station Train station Ferry

Calle 1 1 B2 1 B2 2 1 B2 3 1 B3 4 1 B3 5 1 B3 6 1 B3 7 1 B3 8 2 D1 9 1 B3 10 11 1 A2 1 B3 12 13 1 A4 1 B3 14 15 1 A4 16 1 A3 17 1 A4 18 1 A4 19 1 A5 19 de Mayo 2 E4 20 de Mayo, Avenida 2 F5 21 1 A5 22 1 A4 23 (Rampa) 1 C4 24 1 A4 24 de Febrero 2 F5 25 1 A5 & 3 A2 26 1 A5 27 1 C4 27 de Noviembre 2 E3 28 1 A5 2 D4 29 30 1 A5 2 D4 31 2 D4 33 2 D5 35 2 D5 37 2 D5 39 2 D5 41

Campanario 3 C2 Cañongo 3 C2 Capricho 4 D1 Cárcel 4 D1 Cárdenas 4 D3 Carlos M Céspedes, Ave (Puerto, Avenida del) 4 D1 Carlos M de Céspedes, Avenida 2 D5 Carmen 3 B4 Carpinetti 4 F2 Castillejo 3 A3 Castillo 3 B5 Catedral, Plaza de la 4 E2 3 B3 Cerrada del Paseo Chacón 4 E2 Chávez 3 B3 Churruca 4 F2 Cienfuegos 4 D4 Clavel 3 A5 Collado 2 F4 & 3 A4 Colón 4 D2 Colón, Avenida de 2 D5 Compostela 4 E2 Concepción de la Valla 3 B4 Concordia 2 F2 & 3 A2 Conde 4 E4 Condesa 3 B4 Consulado 4 D1 Corrales 3 C4 Crecherie 1 C4 Crespo 3 C2 Cristo 4 D3 Cruz del Padre 3 A5 Cuarteles 4 E1 Cuba 4 E2 Cuchillo 3 C3 Curazao 4 E3

A

D

A

1 B2 & 1 A5 3 B4 A Alvares, Paseja Acosta 4 E3 4 D2 Agramonte Aguacate 4 E2 Aguiar 4 E2 Aguila 3 C2 Aguire 2 F3 4 D4 Alambique Almendares 2 F4 Amargura 4 E2 Amenidad 3 A5 Amezaga 2 F5 Amistad 3 C2 Angeles 3 C4 Animas 3 A2 Anton Recio 3 C4 4 D4 Apodaca Aponte (Someruelos) 4 D3 Aramburu 3 A2 Aranguren (Zaldo) 2 E5 & 3 A5 Arbol Seco 3 A4 Arroyo (Manglar), Avenida 3 A5 Ayestarán, Calzada de 2 F5

B

B B, Pasaje Baratillo Barcelona Barillo Basarrate Bayona Bélgica (Egido), Avenida Bellavista Benjumeda

1 C2 3 B4 4 F2 3 C3 4 F2 2 F3 4 E4

4 D2 2 D5 2 F4 & 3 A4 Bernal 3 C2 Bernaza 4 D3 Blanco 3 C2 Brasil (Teniente Rey) 4 E3 Bruzón 2 F4

C

C C Protestantes

1 C2 2 D5

D Damas Desagüe Desamparado Diaria División Dragones

1 C2 4 E3 2 F4 & 3 A4 4 E4 3 C5 3 B4 3 C3

E

E 1 C1 Economia 4 D3 Egido 4 E4 Empedrado 4 E2 Enrique Barnet (Estrella)3 A4 Escobar 3 B2 Espada 2 F2 & 3 A2 Espada (Vives), Avenida de 3 C5 Esperanza 3 C4 Estévez 3 B5

F

F Fabria Factoria Figuras Flores Florida Franco

G

G General Aguirre General E. Nuñez General Suarez Genios Gervasio Gloria Gregorio

H

H H Uppman Habana Hammell Holguín Hornos Hospital

Humboldt

II

2 D1 3 C4 4 D2 2 F2 & 3 A4 Inquisidor 4 F3 Italia (Galiano), Ave de 3 C2 Indio Industria Infanta, Calzada de

J-K J Jesús Maria Jesús Peregrino Julia Borges Jústiz K

LL Lagunas Lamparilla Lealtad Leonor Pérez (Paula) Linas, Pasaje Lindero Linea López Luaces Lucena Lugareño Luz

2 D2 2 F5 2 F5 2 E5 4 D1 3 B2 3 C5 3 B5

2 D1 2 F3 4 E2 3 A2 3 C4 3 A2 3 A1

2 D1 4 E3 3 A3 2 D5 4 F2 2 D1 2 E1 3 B2 4 E2 3 B4 4 E4 3 B4 3 B5 1 A3 4 F2 2 F4 3 B2 2 F4 4 E3

M M

2 E1 1 A2 & 3 A1 Maloja 3 A4 Manglar 3 B5 Manrique 3 C2 Marina 3 A2 Marino 2 D5 3 B2 Marqués González Marta Abreu 2 F5 Masó 2 F5 Matadero 3 B5 Máximo Gómez (Monte) 3 B3 Mazón 2 F3 Mercaderes 4 E2 Mercado 3 B5 Merced 4 E3 Misión 3 D4 Misiones, Ave de las 4 D2 (Monserrate) 1 D4 Montero Sánchez Montoro 2 F4 Morales 3 A4 Morro 4 D1 Muralla 4 E3

Malecón

N N N López Neptuno

1 C1 2 F4 4 D3 3 C4 3 B5 4 D4 3 B4

2 F1 & 3 A1

Nueva Nueva de Pilar

O O O’Reilly Obispo Obrapia Oficios Omoa Oquendo

P

2 E1 4 F2 2 F2 & 3 A2 3 A5 3 B4 2 F1 4 E2 4 E2 4 E2 4 F2 3 B5 3 A2

P Laccoste 2 F5 P Vidal 2 F5 Padre Varela (Belascoain) 3 B2 Panorama 2 D5 Panchito Gómez 2 F5 Pasaje 21 3 A5 Paseo 1 B2 Paseo de Martí (Prado) 4 D2 Pedroso 3 A5 Peña Pobre 4 E1 Peñalver 2 F4 & 3 A4 Pereira 2 F5

Perseverancia 3 C2 Picota 4 E3 Plasencia 3 A4 Pocitos 3 A3 Porvenir 4 A3 Pozos Dulces 2 F4 Presidentes, Ave de los 1 C1 Príncipe 2 F2 & 3 A2 Progreso 4 D2 Puerta Cerrada 3 C5 4 D5 Puerto, Avenida del

R

Rancho Boyeros, Avenida de Rastro Rayo Refugio Requena Retiro Reunión Revillagigedo Ronda

S

Salud Salvador Allende (Carlos III), Avenida

2 E5 3 C4 3 C4 4 D1 2 F4 3 A4 3 C4 4 D4 2 F3

3 A3

2 F4 & 3 A4 San Antonio 2 D5 San Antonio Chiquito 1 B5 San Carlos 3 B4 San Francisco 3 A3 San Ignacio 4 E2 San Isidro 4 E4 San Joaquín 3 A5 San José 3 B5 San Lazaro 2 F2 & 3 A2 San Martín 2 F5 & 3 A5 San Martin (San José) 2 F3 & 3 A3 San Miguel 2 F3 & 3 A3 San Nicolás 3 C2 San Pedro 4 F3 San Rafael 2 F3 & 3 A3 Santa Clara 4 F3 Santa Marta 3 A5 3 B5 Santa Rosa Santiago 3 B3 Santo Tomás 3 A4 Santo Tomás, Pasaje 3 B4 Sardinas 2 F5 Simón Bolivar (Reina), Avenida 3 C3 Sitios 3 A4 Sol 4 E3 Soledad 3 A2 Suárez 4 D4 Subirama 3 A4

T

Tacón Talla Piedra Tejadillo Tenerife Territorial Tetuán Trocadero

U-V

Universidad Valle Vapor Venus Vieja, Plaza Villegas Villuenda Virtudes

X-Z

Xifré Zanja Zapata, Calzada de Zulueta

4 E1 4 D5 4 E2 3 C4 2 E5 3 B3 4 D2

2 E3 & 3 B5 2 F3 & 3 A3 2 F2 & 3 A2 3 A2 4 E3 4 D2 2 F5 3 A2

3 A4 3 A3 1 B4 4 D2

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The National Symphony performing in Havana

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The impressive exterior of the Gran Teatro de la Habana

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A traditional son band performing on the street

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A live musical performance at one of Havana’s many nightclubs

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Bartender preparing one of the famous daiquiris at El Floridita

Dancers at the Tropicana, Havana’s most famous and colourful cabaret

%.1 5 - 2!.'$,( -2'$ -$ 1!8Casa de la Amistad(2 4! ' 2 3'1(5(-&"(-$, +(5$+85$-4$%.1,42(" -# (-#42318'$ --4 +$"$,!$1 # -"$ 2Casa de la Poesía' 2/.$3181$ #(-&2 &') "'%"#" " '"#!%"# , ).1 CULTURAL TOURS (-3$1- 3(.- +%(+,%$23(5 +(2 .1& -(9$#!83'$Instituto $$*+.-&'.+(# 8/ "* &$2 Cubano de Cinematografía 6'("'/1$2(#$2.5$1 1$ 5 (+ !+$%1.,Paradiso: Promotora de Turismo Cultural 3'$ "3(5(3($2.%3'$:2$5$-3' 13<(-4! &$ -# +2. &' "&'$".23 14-23'$Cine Charles Chaplin (-"+4#$2 "".,,.# 3(.-(- .23.%3'$, ).1"(-$, 2 : 23 1<'.3$++4-"' -##(--$1 1$(-3'$$# #.#(231("3 (-38/(" +4! -1$23 41 -32 '$, (-.-$(2Cine Yara 31 -2/.13&4(#$2$-31 -"$3. $ 1!8 Cine Riviera2"1$$-2 ,42$4,2 -#3'$ 31$2 ,.23+8.++86..# "3(.- ,$$3(-&26(3'4! - 13(232 ,.5($26'(+$Cine La Rampa -#5(2(323.2"'..+2 -# 2'.62, (-+84! - -# 3(- 2/$"( +(23$#4" 3(.- +"$-31$2 ,$1(" -%(+,2 5 - 2 '$ +( #%!*# #%, + 1&$23"(-$, (23'$,4+3( /1.&1 ,,$%."42$2.- 13& + 2"1$$-Cine Payret(-$-31. +$1($22$1(&1 /'82(+*2"1$$- ! - (3 +2.' 2,(#-(&'3 6.1*2'./2 -# 13(232234#(.2 2'.62 36$$*$-#2 6'(+$ +(%.&# &,%$ 341$22 +2 "+ 22$2 CULTURAL CENTRES -# +&'&!/&, $#4" 3$25(2(3.12 !.434! 2 .15(2(3.12(-3$1$23$#(-4! - ,42(" +%.1,2 -#31 #(3(.-2 "4+341$3'$ 2 #$+ 2 CHILDREN ,=1(" 2&$' 2 &..#+(!1 186$++23."*$# 4! -2 #.1$"'(+#1$- -# !..*2'./ -# %(-$ 13 3'$3 3$3 *$2&..#" 1$.% & ++$183.1& -(9$2+(3$1 18 (328.4-&.6$5$1$-3$13 (- -#/.$318%$23(5 +2(&' ,$-35$-4$2%.1"'(+#1$- 1$ +$5$+"4+341 +$5$-32 1$ +2. %$6'$Aqvarium#(2/+ 82 '$+# 33'$Fundación Alejo Carpentier#$#(" 3$#3.3'$ 31./(" +%(2' -#3'$Acuario Nacional/432.-#.+/'(- 6.1*.%3'$&1$ 34! - 2'.62.-*$81(#$2 1$ 61(3$1 -#3'$Fundación Fernando Ortíz2/$"( +(9(-&(- .%%$1$# 3Parque Luz Caballero(- ! - ($) -# %1.4! -234#($2'$ Asociación Cultural Yoruba 3 104$$-(-&$ #$#(" 3$#3. %1(" -#$1(5$# -# Parque Metropoliano de la Habana'$Teatro Guiñol 1$+(&(.-2' 2 +(!1 18 13 '.232/4//$32'.62 -# $7'(!(32 -#+$"341$2 -$.%3'$,.23 "3(5$"$- "'(+#1$-23'$ 31$ 31$2(2UNEAC 3(.- +1(3$12 3'$,$/ 1*6(3'"(1"42 -# 13(232-(.-6'("''.232 ,(-( 341$31 (- -#2* 3$1(-& ,42(" + -#+(3$1 18$5$-32 3 (24-#$1".-2314"3(.- +.-& +41?- 94+;3'$, (-2/.3 3'$2'.1$%1.-3(-+.1$2 CINEMA

DIRECTORY TICKET AGENCIES Paradiso: Promotora de Turismo Cultural Calle 19 560 esq. C. Map 2 D3. Tel (7) 832 6928. paradis@ paradiso.artex.com.cu

THEATRE Casa de la Comédia Calle Justíz 18, esq. Baratillo. Map 4 F2. Tel (7) 863 9282.

Café Teatro Brecht Calle 13, esq. I. Map 2 D2. Tel (7) 832 9359.

FOLK & TRADITIONAL MUSIC Asociación Cultural Yoruba de Cuba Prado 615, e/ Dragones y Monte. Map 4 D3. Tel (7) 863 5953.

Conjunto Folklórico Nacional Calle 4 103 e/ Calzada y 5ta. Map 1 B2. Tel (7) 836 9075.

Rumba del “Salvador’s Alley” Callejón de Hamel, e/ Aramburo y Hospital. Map 3 A2. Tel (7) 878 1661.

Teatro El Sótano

Salón de Ensayo Calle K, e/ 25 y 27. Map 2 E2. Tel (7) 832 0630. Benny Moré Neptuno 960, e/ Aguila y Teatro Fausto Galiano. Map 3 C2. Paseo de Martí 201, esq. Tel (7) 878 8827. Colón. Map 4 D2. Tel (7) 862 5416. RAP, ROCK & JAZZ Teatro Hubert de Blanck Calzada 657, e/ Calles A y B. Map 1 C2. Tel (7) 830 1011.

Teatro Mella Línea 657, e/ A y B. Map 1 C2. Tel (7) 833 5651.

Teatro Trianon Línea 706, e/ Paseo y A. Map 1 C2. Tel (7) 832 9648.

CLASSICAL MUSIC & OPERA Iglesia de San Francisco de Paula Avenida del Puerto, esq. Leonor Pérez. Map 4 F4. Tel (7) 860 4210.

Museo de la Música Capdevilla 1. Map 4 E1. Tel (7) 861 9846.

Teatro Amadeo Roldán

Casa de la Cultura Calle 164, esq. 5taB, Zona 7, Alamar. Tel (7) 65 0624.

Irakere Jazz Club Calle 0, 314 e/ 3ra y 3raA. Tel (7) 829 3389.

Jazz Café

Café Concierto Gato Tuerto Calle O 14, e/ 17 y 19. Map 2 F1. Tel (7) 833 2224.

Calle 23 111, e/ O y P. Map 2 F2. Tel (7) 878 6146.

Casa de la Música

Cine Payret

Galiano, e/ Concordia y Neptuno. Tel (7) 862-4165. Avenida 25 esq 20. Map 3 C2. Tel (7) 204 0447.

Paseo de Martí 503, esq. San José. Map 4 D3. Tel (7) 863 3163.

Dos Gardenias

Calles 23 e/ H y G. Map 2 E3. Tel (7) 832 9564.

Complejo Dos Gardenias, Calle 7 y 26, Playa. Tel (7) 2042 353.

Macumba Complejo La Giraldilla, La Coronela. Tel (7) 330 568.

Salón Rosado Benny Moré Avenida 41, esq. 48. Tel (7) 209 0985.

Salón Turquino Calle L, e/ 23 y 25. Map 2 F2. Tel (7) 55 4011.

Calle 23 y Calle L. Map 2 E2. Tel (7) 832 9430.

CULTURAL CENTRES Asociación Cultural Yoruba Paseo de Martí 615. Map 4 D3. Tel (7) 863 5953.

Casa de la Amistad Paseo 406, e/ 17 y 19. Map 1 C3. Tel (7) 830 3114.

Casa de la Poesía

Paseo y Malecón. Map 1 B2. Tel (7) 836 4051.

Fundación Alejo Carpentier

Cabaret Parisienne

Empedrado 215. Map 4 E2. Tel (7) 861 3667.

Calle O, esq. 21. Map 2 F1. Tel (7) 873 3564.

Bar Vista del Golfo

Dos Hermanos

Calle 37 262, e/ Paseo y 2. Map 1 D5. Tel (7) 881 0722.

Avenida San Pedro 304, esq. Sol. Map 2 F3. Tel (7) 861 3514.

Teatro América

El Floridita

Avenida de Italia 253, e/ Concordia y Neptuno. Map 3 C2. Tel (7) 862 4165.

Obispo, esq. Monserrate. Map 4 D2. Tel (7) 867 1300.

Teatro Karl Marx

Cine Yara

Cabaret Copa Room

Calle O, esq. 21. Map 2 F1. Calle 23, e/ N y O. Tel (7) 874 3564. Map 2 F2. Tel (7) 833 2402.

Patio de María

Cine Riviera

Calle Muralla 63, e/ Oficios y Inquisidor. Map 4 F3. Tel (7) 861 8251.

CABARET

Avenida 1ra esq. Paseo. Map 1 B2. Tel (7) 55 3475. Cabaret Salón Rojo Calle 21, e/ N y O. La Madriguera Map 2 B2. Tel (7) 833 3747. Avenida Salvador Allende, e/ Infanta y Luaces. BARS Map 2 F4. Tel (7) 879 8175.

La Zorra y el Cuervo

Cine La Rampa

CINEMA

Fundación Fernando Ortíz Calle 27 160, esq. L. Map 2 F2. Tel (7) 832 6841

UNEAC Calle 17 351, esq. H. Map 2 D2. Tel (7) 832 4551.

CHILDREN Acuario Nacional Avenida 3ra, esq. Calle 62. Tel (7) 203 6401.

Aqvarium Calle Brasil 9, e/Mercaderes y Oficios. Map 4 F3. Tel (7) 863 9493.

Parque Luz Caballero Calle Tacón, Habana Vieja. Avenida 47, Miramar. Map 4 E1.

Calzada y D. Map 1 C2. Tel (7) 832 4521.

Avenida 1ra e/ 8 y 10. Tel (7) 209 1991.

Instituto Cubano de Cinematografía

BALLET

NIGHTCLUBS & DISCOS

Calle 23 1155, e/10 y 12. Tel (7) 831 3145. Map 1 C4. www.cubacine.cu.

Parque Metropoliano de la Habana

Café Cantante

Cine Charles Chaplin

Teatro Guiñol

Paseo, esq. 39. Map 2 E6. Tel (7) 879 0710.

Calle 23 1155, e/ 10 y 12. Map 1 C4. Tel (7) 831 1101.

Calle M, e/ 17 y 19. Map 2 E1. Tel (7) 832 6262.

Ballet Nacional de Cuba Calzada 510 e/ D y E. Map 1 C2. Tel (7) 832 4625.

Avenida 47, Miramar.

CUBA REGION BY REGION

CUBA AT A GLANCE 130131 WESTERN CUBA 132153 CENTRAL CUBA  WEST 154177 CENTRAL CUBA  EAST 178207 EASTERN CUBA 208245

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Miles of white beaches and beautifully clear water at Playa Tortuga, Cayo Largo

Bike riding in the peaceful Viñales valley; in the background is a typical mogote

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Bathing under the falls (saltón) of the Manantiales river at Soroa

Pinar del Río. Road Map A2. Las Terrazas, (48) 578 700.

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp256–8 and pp279–80

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The well-managed pine forest at Las Terrazas

Pinar del Río. Road Map A2. from Palma Rubia (1 hr), departure 10am, return trip 5pm. Excursions from Pinar del Río Cubanacán Viajes, Calle Martí 109, esq. Colón, (48) 750 178.

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The artificial pool at the heart of the Las Terrazas rural community

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Playa San Pedro

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San Diego de Los Baños (Pinar del Río). Road Map A2. 3,000. La Güira Restaurant, (48) 812 611. daily.

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The entrance to the Cueva de los Portales

The lovely gardens in Parque La Güira

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Los Palacios (Pinar del Río). Road Map A3. Ecotur, (48) 753 844.

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Pinar del Río. Road Map A3.

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TOBACCO HARVEST (9=,:;05.;6)(**6 0:(+,30*(;,(5+3()6906<: 67,9(;065$/,3,(=,:(9, ;0,+05)<5*/,:/<5.65 /690A65;(3763,:(5+;/,5 ;9(5:769;,+;6+9@05. 9664:5;/,*(:,6-;/, #&##73(5;;/,/(9=,:; 0:*(990,+6<;05=(906<: :;(.,:(;05;,9=(3:6:,=,9(3+(@: Humidification

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The unusual façade of the Palacio de Guasch, Pinar del Río

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A storehouse for drying tobacco near a mogote

Sierrita de San Vicente

San Vicente

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SIERRA DE VIÑALES

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VALLE DE LA GUASASA

Mogote Dos Hermanas

Mogote Del Valle

KEY Peak

Minas de Matahambre

Paved road Path River

Entrance to the Santo Tomás Cavern

Underground river V

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Hotel Los Jazmines

Pinar del Rio

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Viñales (Pinar del Río). Road Map A3. 30,000. Cubanacás Viajes, Salvador Cisneros 636, Plaza Viñales, (48) 796 393, Calle S. Cisneros 140, Viñales, (8) 796 300. Carretera Cementerio, Viñales, (8) 793 119; connections with Havana, Pinar del Río and Varadero. Excursions & tours of the caves Hotel Rancho San Vicente, Carretera Puerto Esperanza, Km 33, Viñales, (48) 796 451.

V

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Puerto Esperanza

La Palma

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Cueva De San Miguel

Mogote La Esmeralda

Mogote De Robustiano

Rio Palmarito

Mogote Rustico

Viñales

Hotel La Ermita

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THE STRUCTURE OF A MOGOTE (*#*/!.)$&%+$&*+% %+)&"* %

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The jetty at María La Gorda, the departure point for boats taking people to dive sites

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

NUEVA GERONA • Playa Bibijagua • • Chacón

Ciro Redondo •

Municipality with a special statute. 86,000. Rafael Cabrera Mustelier, Carretera La Fé, km 5, (46) 322 300. Daily catamaran ride from Batabanó, lasting 2–3 hours. For information call (46) 324 415. Nueva Gerona Gaviota, Carretera La Fé (46) 323 256.

• Júcaro

• La Fé • La Victoria El Chalet • • La Reforma

• Argelia Libre

KEY Motorway Major road

• Julio Antonio Mella

Minor road Unpaved road Domestic airport

Cayo Piedra •

Ferry

• Punta Recommended beach del Este Pre-Columbian site Viewpoint

Museo Municipal

de Nueva Gerona Calle 30 e/ 37 y Martí. Tel (46) 323 791. 9am–6pm Tue–Thu, 9am –10pm Fri & Sat, 9am–1pm Sun. (with charge). Museo de Ciencias

Naturales Calle 41, esq.54. Tel (46) 323 143. 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. (with charge).

Strolling along the arcades on Nueva Gerona’s Calle 39

The monumental façade of the Presidio Modelo prison

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Presidio Modelo 4 km southeast of Nueva Gerona, Reparto Delio Chacón. Tel (46) 325 112. 8am–4pm Tue–Sat, 8am–noon Sun.

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hotel sign Centro Inter84)<.7:5+)6*-5),- 7?6-:):1+0)<)4)6 nacional de Buceo1; *A*-/166-:;<07;- -):*A1;<0->);<"):9=- )4;747+)<-, )476/<0-;0-4.):-57:- )<=:)4=4176<7617-44) ?01+00);)*7<)61+)4/):,-6 6<0-57:616/;)>)6<)3-; ,1..1+=4<)6,;=1<-,<7,1>-:; )B77)6)5=;-5-6<8):3)6 /=-;<;.:75<0-7<-47476A ?1<057:--@8-:1-6+- ):<1.1+1)44)3-)6,)>1-?8716< <7<0-,1>16/+-6<:-?0-:-)44 576/<0-57;<.);+16)<16/ 7>-:477316/<0--6<1:-1;4)6, 316,;7.,1>16/-9=185-6<+)6 ,1>-;):-<0-76-)<)"):-, *-:-6<-,)4<07=/01<1; %7<0-;7=<0<0-1G6)/),- ,- 7:)4 -/:7?01+00);)6 )*=6,)6+-7.*4)+3+7:)4); )61-:1;>1;1*4-)5):;0A ),>1;)*4-<7<)3-)55 ?-44);;876/-;);5=+0); ):-)16<0-51,,4-7.?01+01; ?-<;=1<)6,)67@A/-6<)63 <0->144)/-7.)A7"1-,:) 7:*7<<4-?1<0A7=)6,?01+0 5 .<16,1)5-<-:4 #-167,-4$)0):)76-7.<0- 57;<*-)=<1.=4;0)447?,1>-; 41:),7:)?)44,1>-)576/ ;876/-;)6,4):/-5),:- 87:-;)6,4 :+7,-47; $F*)47;?01+01;<0-,75)16 7.<):876;< )A77;6,17; ;018?:-+3;+)6*-;--676 <0-;-)*-,)<),-8<07. D 5D .< %0-:-):-)4;7-:;*-+)=;-7.1<; The Hotel Colony, surrounded by tropical vegetation ?76,-:.=44A+747=:.=4)6, Casa Museo Finca El Abra Carretera Siguanea km 1.5 (5 km southwest of Nueva Gerona). Tel (46) 396 200. 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun. Mon. (with charge).

Hotel Colony

Tel (46) 398 181. to the Centro de Buceo, daily at 9am, return trip at 4:30–5pm.

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Cuevas de Punta del Este 59 km (37 miles) southeast of Nueva Gerona. Punta del Este, (46) 322 082; Ecotur, (46) 327 101.

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An old map of Isla de la Juventud from the Museo Municipal of Nueva Gerona

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View of Playa Tortuga

Marina Cayo Largo

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•

Isla del Sol

• Las Piedras

Playa Paraíso ,6 9(5< 6(&/8'(' 0$.,1* 18'( 681%$7+,1* 3266,%/(

Playa Lindamar ,6 $ 6+(//6+$3('

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STAR SIGHTS

Playa Sirena Playa Los Cocos Playa Tortuga

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp256–8 and pp279–80

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Archipiélago de los Canarreos (Isla de la Juventud). Road Map B3. 500. Vilo Acuña, (45) 248 205. Cubatur, Hotel Isla del Sur (45) 248 246 or (45) 248 258; Havanatur (45) 248 215. Excursions from Marina Cayo Largo: departure in the morning, return at sunset.

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Playa Los Pinos

Major road Minor road Unpaved road

International airport Beach Ferry

0 km

1

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An iguana in Cayo Iguana

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KEY Motorway Major road Minor road Regional border Main railway Summit

Signpost at the entrance to the province of Villa Clara

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%3>?+>/.98>2/=29+8D+=3=>2/-+:3>+690>2/ :<9@38-/90>2/=+7/8+7/>3=+ 7+49<38.?=><3+6>9A8A3>2>2/ Stained-glass window, 09?<>279=>37:9<>+8>:9<>38>2/ Triolet pharmacy A9<6.09<=?1+=/-+?=/90 >2/7+8C,<3.1/=9@/<>2/*?7?<J+8.%+8?+8<3@/<= 6385381>2/23=>9<3--/8>9>2/@+<39?=;?+<>/<=90 +>+8D+=+8.3>=>A9=?,?<,+8.3=><3->=(/<=+66/=+8. "?/,69 ?/@9>2/-3>C2+=,//8-+66/.>2/E-209<>2/896/==+7,3>39?=E>2/8=90 ?,+G&2/=/>A98+7/=.+>/,+-5>9>2/ >2-/8>?2/+<>3=>3-+8.-?6>?<+6630/90>2/-3>C>2/2?,90+ 069?<3=2381+1<3-?6>?<+6=298/>2+>90+@+8+

Teatro Sauto Calle Magdalena y Milanés. Tel (45) 242 721. Tue–Sun. 20 Dec– 5 Jan & 15 Aug–1 Sep.

&2/:<3./+8.49C90>2/-3>C >23=>2/+>2/>+63+8+<-23>/->+83/6/ /661639A29A+=+6=9 2/-2?<-290 %+8"/.<938>2/(/<=+66/= .3=><3->!8:<36 >2/ +?.3>9<3?7A+=9:/8/.>9>2/ :?,63-+=>2/=>/,+8&2/+>2/:<9@38-3+6 19@/<892/-98=>398>A+=6+>/< 2/%+?>9&2/+>2/+>+8D/<9= +00/->39809<>2/69-+6 :2+<7+-3=>7,<9=39./6+ 98-/:-3L8%+?>9+ :+==398+>/>2/+>398 2/2+.237=/60: /9 6+==3-+6=>?2 =/@/<+6+>?/=7+./90+<<+<+ 7+<,6/>2/>2/+>398 /B/-?>/.,C>2/+<-23>/-> /661639237=/60&2/' Teatro Sauto in Matanzas with its beautiful wood-panelling =2+:/.38>/<39<3=+679=> /8>32A99. The Centre of Matanzas -966/->39838-6?./=.9-?7/8>= :+8/66381 &2/=>=38+>+8D+=+=/B-/:>398+6 +8.9,4/->=-98-/<8381>2/ +-9?=>3-=>2/@/<=+>36/>2/+>/.,C+ 23=>92/:<9@38-/0<97 2+=,//8>2/-29=/8@/8?/ 8?7,/<,?>38:<+->3-/>2/3< >2/"9 &2/=/->398./@9>/.>9 09<+66538.=90=29A=+8. 96983+68+7/=+366 >2/96983+6:/<39.A3>2.9-? 1 >2+8. >2-/8>?3=>=2+@/+::/+=98=6+@/9<3--/8>996=3=90:+<>3-?6+< 2/9=>+<>3=Plaza de la 38>/9:3/=90 >2/ /<=2+@/38-6?./.+->/.>9>2/9?> 79=>38>/381?,+8 %+<+2/<82+<.>38

=53<>=,C>2/98-9<.3++8. :/<39.3-+690>2/ >2-/8>?.+8-/<88+ "+@69@++8.>2/1?3>+<3=> +63B>9+<-J+,<3.1/=8>2/ +2/=>+>?/90+8 ?8589A8=96.3/<90>2/A+<= THE DANZON 9038./:/8./8-/+8.+<9?8. 8>2/ >2-/8>?A9 3>=>+8.=/@/<+690>2/-3>C= -97:9=/<=9=I)23>/+8. 5/C=312>=>2/ /96+==3-+6 31?/6+36./A/+>398 >2/"+6+-/ +>+8D+=A23-2A+=+>>2+>>37/ 90?=>3-/ >2/?=/9 +7+49<-?6>?<+6-/8>2/%+?>9&2/+>2/6+>>/<-97:9=/. +8..3-398/=(31J+ A23-238><9.?-/.+ 8/A7?=3-+61/89?,+>2/ Museo Provincial +8DL8&23=+<3,,/+8+8. Calle Milanés, e/ Magdalena y Ayllon. +>39890?<9:/+8 Tel (45) 243 195. 9:30am–5pm -9?8>2/79=> Period print of people Tue–Sat, 8am–noon Sun. Mon. :9:?6+<.+8-/98>2/3=6+8.09< dancing the Danzón +,9?>030>CC/+<=>3==>366.+8-/. &23=7?=/?79--?:3/=>2/ 38+>+8D+=38>2/+=+./6+8DL8>2/29?=/A2/ +36./A+=,9<8A23-23=89A+7?=3-7?=/?7 ,6?/:9<>3-9/.,?36.381 -98=>/.38 &2/ For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp258–63 and pp280–82

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@366+1/90*+-+C98>2/73. VISITORS’ CHECKLIST .6/90>2/:6+D+3=+837:+>?/909=I+<>J=?< 150,000. Carretera <9?8./.,C=97/+>><+->3@/ Regalito, km 5.5, Varadero, (45) ,?36.381=>2/3-/9<>J=>3-9C 247 015. Ave. 8 y 5, (45) 292 3>/<+<39 >2/+=389 409. Calzada de Esteban, =:+K96,?36>38>2//+<6C (45) 291 473. Havanatur, =>2/"+6+-39./6 Calle Jovellanos e/n Medio y Río, 9,3/<89>2/Catedral de (45) 253 856. San Carlos.+>3810<97>2/ >2-/8>?79=>6C Bookbinding at the Ediciones 38>2/ >2-/8>? Vigía publishing house >99>/669?@2/?=/9 +.@/<>3=381:9=>/<=,9+=>381 Ediciones Vigía +,9?>>2/73<+-?69?=-?<+>3@/ +<7+-I?>3-9./+>+8D+= Calle Magdalena 1, Plaza de la Vigía. :9A/<=90<&<396/>= Tel (45) 244 845. 8:30am–4pm Museo Farmacéutico 2/ Mon–Fri, 8:30am–noon Sat. 1 Jan, de Matanzas :2+<7+-C0+-/=>2/=;?+303-3809<7+ y Ayuntamiento. Tel (45) 243 179. &23=:?,63=238129?=/= >398A3>2792+8+7366398 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, 10am–2pm :<9.?->=+3/.F.?:63-+>/.:+38>/. &23=038//B+7:6/90+ >2 ,995=98,9>+8C7/.3-38/ +8.,9?8.F98=:/-3+6 -/8>?

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A huge limestone formation in the Cuevas de Bellamar

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The linear façade of the historic Dominica building at Cárdenas

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ominica +>25-270 7 @1.72= /58>;2<1270<>0*;27-><=;B @*<=1.1.*-:>*;=.;<8/=1. %8-*B18@.?.;.A,.9=/8; $9*72<108?.;76.7=27>+* *;>6/*,=8;B7.*;=1.98;= >+*77*=287*52<==;889< H;-.7*<8//.;<875B=@8 Matanzas. Road Map B–C 2. 100,000.

5.-+B *;,2<8L9.C182<=.- =1. >+*7/5*01.;./8; =1./2;<==26. 7=1.<.,87-6*38;<:>*;. "*;:>.,1.?*;;J*2<*/27. .85*<<2,*5+>25-270.;.,=.- 27 @12,1@*<87,.=1. ,2=B<-2<=;2,=9;2<87=@*< =>;7.-27=8=1.Museo Municipal Oscar María de Rojas27 6*42702==1.

85-.<==8@76><.>627>+* =18><.<*,855.,=2878/,827< *;6<<1.55<627.;*5<+>==.; /52.<*7-<=>//.-*726*5< H;-.7*<2<*5<8/*68>=287*;B@18@*< 9;.<2-.7=8/=1.&72?.;<2=B $=>-.7=<.-.;*=28727 *?*7*.@*0.-*7*7=2 *=2<=*,*69*207*7-@*< *<<*<<27*=.-+B=1.9852,. %1.18><.1.@*<+8;7272< 78@*6><.>6@2=1*7 27=.;.<=27012<=8;2,*5 <>;?.B8/;.?85>=287 *;B>+*2=*5<8 1*<87-2<95*B2=.6< =1*=87,.+.5870.- =8 ,1.?*;;J* Museo Municipal Oscar María de Rojas Calzada 4, e/ José Antonio Echevarría y José Martí. Tel (45) 522 417. 9am– 6pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun. (with charge). Museo Casa Natal de José Antonio Echevarría Plaza José A Echevarría. Tel (45) 524 145. 9am– 6pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 25 Dec.

Cárdenas, the city of horse-drawn carriages

$ ! ( !

=*);<78:-;7:<?01+07++=81-;<0-

35 514-476/ -6H6;=4),- 1+)+7;1;+766-+<-,<7<0-5)164)6, *A),:)?*:1,/-);1/67.%):),-:7; -@+4=;1>1-;;=55-::-;1,-6+-;76<0-67:<0+7);< %):),-:7*-+)5-).);0176)*4-*-)+0.7:<0-?-)4<0A .<-:);<:7<77387?-:16 <0-):-)?);78-6-, =8<7)44316,;7.8-784-)6,1;67?-;8-+1)44A878=4): ?1<0)6),1)6;)6,=:78-)6;,:)?6<7<0-?01<- ;)6,A*-)+0-;+4-):*4=-?)<-:)6,/77,.)+141<1-;

Parque Retiro Josone Avenida Primera y Calle 56. Tel (45) 667 228. daily.

#01;1;)*-)=<1.=48):3?1<0 -4-/)6<<:--;<:781+)4.47?-:; )6,84)6<;<0:--:-;<)=:)6<; )6,);5)444)3-?0-:-*1:,; /)<0-:)6,<7=:1;<;:7?*7)<;
#0-=61+18)4=;-=5 :-+7=6<;<0-01;<7:A7. %):),-:7*7<0);)6=:*)6 )6,<7=:1;<+-6<:-)6,)4;7 The attractive home of Varadero’s municipal museum 0);)+744-+<1767.6,1)6 <774;76,1;84)A<1;16<-:-;< Exploring Varadero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arque *7=/)16>144-):7A)4 Central16>-61,) :) 8716+1)6)+7+76=<8)45; <01;>144)4)6,;+)8-,;84-6,1, *-
)6, #0- /):,-6;?01+0>1;1<7:;<7<0- )6,;-)/:)8-; 74,-;<07<-47.67<-1;7<-4 #0-5)16:7),)476/<0- 5=;-=5+)6;<144-627A667:<0-:6;1,-7.<0-8-616;=4) 6<-:6)+176)4)<<0-?-;<-:6 ;1,-7.<0-5=;-=5.)+-;<0- 1; >-61,) :15-:) :)<0- -6,7.>-61,));5G:1+); ;-))6,<0-*)4+76A76<0- -);<-:68):<7.?01+01; ?01+0?);*=14<16<0- ; .1:;<.477:7..-:;).16->1-? 6)5-, >-61,));5G:1+); +7584-<-?1<0)+);167)6, 7>-:<0-;84-6,1,*-)+0 <1;0-:-<0)<<0-5)164=@=:A -@<:)>)/)6<;?15516/8774 )6,<0-+7);<416- VARADERO Straits of Florida

3 2

1

Airport

Bahía de Cárdenas

Cárdenas

KEY Autopista Sur motorway Major road Minor road

0 km 0 miles

1

Pre-Columbian site 1

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp258–63 and pp280–82

Tourist information

# ! $ D & " #

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Matanzas. Road Map B2. 10,000. Autopista Sur y 36, (45) 612 626. Cubatur, Ave 1rd y Calle 33, (45) 614 405; Havanatur, Ave 1rd y Calle 33, (45) 248 215.

$876:-9=-;</74.84)A-:; +)6*773)++7557,)<176 16<0-.-?4=@=:A*-,:775; 16<0->144)

A stretch of the magnificent beach at Varadero

Punta Hicacos ,:-;;-,?1<0<)41)65):*4- )6,8:-+17=;?77,#0-:77. 7:<07;-16<-:-;<-,16?14, Avenida Las Américas, 41.-<0-57;<.);+16)<16/8):< ?);+7>-:-,?1<0/:--6 Reparto Las Torres. Tel (45) 667 750. 7.%):),-:71;<0-):-)6-): +-:)51+<14-;?1<0<0-:5)4 lunch and dinner. =6<)1+)+7;?01+00); 16;=4)<176#0-07=;-?); =:16/<0-A-):;.:75 <7 ;=::7=6,-,*A)0=/-/):,-6 *-+75-)6)<=:-:-;-:>-

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he former Mansión Xanadú, now a bar4=*+7=:;-1;8):< +7584-<-,16 )6, restaurant, with its distinctive green roof 6)5-,)6;1I6')6),J?); 7.<0-*):):-) Restaurante Las

Américas (Mansión Xanadú)

Straits of Florida 4

Golf course

5

Bahía de Cárdenas

VARADERO =;-7=61+18)43 ):9=--6<:)41 ):9=-!-<1:77;76-2 =6<)1+)+7;5 %144)')6),J4

#

,-74)2-2790%-72%1)(%*8)68,)0%2( 3;2)6;,3;%7+6%28)(8,)0%2(&= 8,)4%2-7,'63;2-2 8 -732)3*8,)0)%7843490%8)(%6)%73* 8,)-70%2(%2(13780='327-7873*% ,9+)7;%144%680='3:)6)(&=*36)78 28,)4%788,)-2,%&-8%2871%()8,)-6 Pineapple plants, common here 0-:-2+&=)<86%'8-2+4)%8%2(1%/-2+ ',%6'3%0$%4%8%-732)3*8,)1378 '3140)8);-0(0-*)6)7)6:)7-28,)%6-&&)%26-',-2 &-6(7%2(%2-1%07%2(32)4%688,)%6)%%6392(8,) %+92%()0)7363,%7&))2()7-+2%8)(%2%8-32%04%6/ 8,)6%2%659)%896%0()328)1%6,)%6-&&)%2 '3%78;-8,-877%2(=&)%',)7%886%'877'9&%(-:)67 %2(*%273*38,)6;%8)6743687 STAR SIGHTS

Guamá Playa Larga Playa Girón

Corral de Santo Tomás-7%6)*9+)%2(

A mangrove swamp, characteristic of some tropical coastal areas

• Santo Tomás • Quemado Grande Maneadero

3&7)6:%8-3243-28*36 1-+6%836=&-6(78'%2 320=&):-7-8)(;-8,%2 3**-'-%0+9-()%7/%88,) 6)')48-32()7/3*8,) !-00%0%=%%6+%38)0

THE FAUNA OF THE ZAPATA SWAMP ,-7,%&-8%879443687%&398 74)'-)73*&-6(-2'09(-2+ 8,)1,%1,%!+& *' 8,)9&%2=+1=3;08,)$%4%8% 6%-0%6%6)8=4)3*&%0(-'338;%8)6,)2:%6-39774)'-)73* 4%6638%2(,)632032+8,)'3%781%2%8))7'%2&)7))2 8,)%6-&&)%274)'-)7-73:)6 1 *8032+%2(;)-+,7 %&398/+ 0&7,)&)%',)7%2(63%(7%6)-2:%()( )%',746-2+&='6%&70)%:-2+8,);%8)6831%8)

The Laguna de las Salinas-78,)

;-28)6,31)3* 1%2=74)'-)73* 1-+6%836=&-6( *6313:)1&)6 83%=

The local crocodile3'3(6-03 6,31&-*)6 *%')&++ *!%+ *

The Cuban Pygmy owl

0%9'-(-917-.9!**$## %&+,)%#)'+&)

KEY Major road Minor road Aerotaxi Tourist information The grey heron #!-*!%+ $%)&-*.$'*%* &%*$##!* %$' !!

The zunzuncito ##!*,

Recommended beach

#%!*$,#+!&#&,) $#&)#")%$#

Nature reserve

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp258–63 and pp280–82

Medical centre

> "

(,)+)* &+ ,%)$ &)*!% ,) !%+ 0&!* &%#!++ !**,) )!%)0%&. &,** + ,*&# &$%%!

• Central

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Matanzas. Road Map B2. 10,000. from Boca de Guamá to Guamá. Villa Playa Larga, (45) 948 148; Guamá, (45) 915 551.

&$+& &#! 0)*&)+,!#+ &%+%!*#%* !%+ ,% #*&)& ,$3#*& +,)*+ 0()%%?2% )&%*+),+!&% &+0'!# ')&#,$!% -!##

Australia Cienfuegos Trinidad

Matanzas Varadero

Boca de Guamá

• Laguna del Tesoro

Pálpite •

Caletón

• Soplillar • Molina

• •

• Playa

Buena Ventura

Larga

ia d Bah

e Co

chinos

Bay of Pigs (p163)

• La Majagua

• Los Sábalos •

Caleta del Rosario

• El Jiquí !+ !+*%+ % &+# #0)!*&&*&) /'#&)!%+ *.$'

• Punta Perdiz

Helechal•

Playa Girón

•

0 kilometres 0 miles

La Cueva de los Peces

-7%2%896%04330 %&+1 *8 ())40=-2+%032+% *%9080-2)8-7%2-()%0 7438*367'9&%(-:-2+ %2(7236/)00-2+

• El Polvorín

Caleta Buena%740)2(-( '3:)/1 1-0)7*631 0%=%-6@2-74)6*)'8*36 7'9&%(-:-2+

•

6

Playa 6

Maceo

!* !**+"%&.% *+ *!+&+ !%#+ +#+.%!#*+)&* )$&)*%+ &,%+))-&#,+!&%)0 )$0. ! +&&"'# &% 2 ')!#

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&30#09J9>@7,/0+,;,?,4> >D9:9D8:@>B4?3@9>;:470/ 9,?@=0,9/7@C@=4,9??=:;4.,7 A020?,?4:9?4>,;7,.0B30=0 A4>4?:=>.,9B,76,8:9274,9,> A welcome sign at the 8,92=:A0>,9/>B,8;;7,9?>740 Península de Zapata 49,3,88:.649?30>3,/0:1 ;,78?=00>:->0=A0-4=/>B4?38@7?4.:7:@=0/;7@8,20 2:14>3492:==:B,-:,?:9?30,2@9,/07&0>:=: &30?=,9<@47=,9#,=<@0!,?@=,7/0 :9?08,=,??=,.?> 7:A0=>:1B47/7410,9/@9?:@.30/3,-4?,?>=,?30=?3,9 ,/A09?@=0>0060=>9,9D.,>0?30=04>9:?3492?:-0 10,=0/1=:8?30B47/7410G?30=0,=09:10=:.4:@>-0,>?> :=;:4>:9:@>>9,60>:9?304>7,9/

Statue of Manguanay by the Cuban sculptress Rita Longa, Guamá

7>::149?0=0>?4>?30 =0.:9>?=@.?0/&,J9:A477,20:1 7/0,&,J9,B34.3:..@;40> ,9:?30=:1?304>7,9/>49?30 7,2::9?.:8;=4>0>1:@=0,=?3

?D;4.,79/4,93@?> , ,7,=20==:@9/ Boca de Guamá &303@?>,=0>@;;:=?0/:9 -@47/492,9/

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riadero de 49.7@/0>,=0>?,@=,9?,-,= ,?D;0:1=:/09? Cocodrilos:=.=:.:/4701,=8 ,9/,>8,778@>0@8 @0>?=,> ,92@,9,D?308:?30=B3: (4>4?:=>.,9B,?.3,9/;3:?: -:=J2090>B34.33,>:9 4>;=0;,=492 .,>>,A, 2=,;3?30.=:.:/470>1=:8,9 /4>;7,D>:80149/>/,?492-,.6 1:=30=1,847D*,48,,74??70 :->0=A,?4:9;:49?:A0=7::6492 ?:?30&,J9:.4A474E,?4:9 24=7B3:4>;7,D492,9/?30 ?301,=849?30+,;,?,>B,8; /4>.:A0=0/49?30,2@9, 60D142@=0@,8I?3030=:4. :@9/0/49 ?:>,10 /07&0>:=:,=0, &,J9:B,==4:= 2@,=/ 09/,920=0/>;0.40> :1=0;?470?34>4>?307,=20>? .=:.:/4701,=849@-,,9/ 49.7@/0>,-:@? ,948,7> 60;?49>0;,=,?0;::7>,..:=/ 492?:>4E0,20,9/>;0.40>

Criadero de Cocodrilos daily.

Guamá

&34>@9@>@,73:74/,DA477,20 49?30,2@9,/07 &0>:=:&=0,>@=0,60 80,>@=492 ><68>< 8470>4>9,80/,1?0=@,8I ,&,J9:B,==4:=B3:=0>4>?0/ ?30%;,94>3.:9<@4>?,/:=> @9?4730B,>64770/49 &30A477,20.:9>4>?>:1 3@?>>?,9/492:9>0A0=,7 >8,774>7,9/>49?307,2::9 @47?:1=:D,7;,78B::/,9/ ?3,?.30/B4?3;,7870,A0> ?303@?>;=:A4/0>48;70 ,..:88:/,?4:9:B0A0= ?30D,=00<@4;;0/B4?3 8:/0=9,8094?40>49.7@/492 ,4=.:9/4?4:9492 ,60>@=0 D:@?,60,/0<@,?0>@;;740> :18:><@4?:=0;07709?41D:@ ;7,9?:>?,D30=0

One of the 18 thatched huts in the Laguna del Tesoro

! & $

' G ) % &

Playa Larga

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

Cueva de los Peces (see p165), near Playa Larga, ideal for diving

Playa Girón

&34>-0,.3B,>9,80/49?30 >,1?0=,=09.3;4=,?0 47-0=? 4=:9B3:1:@9/ =01@2030=0?-0.,80 1,8:@>?3=00.09?@=40>7,?0= B3094?B,>?30>4?0:1?30477 1,?0/ 80=4.,9-,.60/ 7,9/49249 7,=20>429

Playa Girón, the easternmost sandy beach in the Bay of Pigs

,??3009?=,9.0?:?30-0,.3 =0,/>F0=0!:=?3 80=4.,9 48;0=4,74>8>@110=0/4?> 14=>?8,5:=/010,?H %4?@,?0/:9?300,>?0=9>4/0 :1?30,D:1#42>?34>4>?30 7,>?>,9/D-0,.349?30,=0, 4/0,71:=14>3492,9//4A492 ,9/,7>:0<@4;;0/B4?32::/ ?:@=4>?1,.474?40> 8@>?4>,A4>4??:?30>8,77 Museo GirónB34.3.:A0=> ?30,9?4,>?=:49A,>4:9@>492 ;3:?:>/:.@809?>B0,;:9> ,?,96,9/?30B=0.6,20:1 ,0=:;7,90>?3,??::6;,=?49 ?307,>?-,??70,>B077,>1478> ?,609/@=492?3049A,>4:9 Museo Girón Playa Girón, Península de Zapata. Tel (45) 984 122. 8am–5pm daily. (with charge).

THE BAY OF PIGS INVASION 348>071B3:B0=0B077;=0;,=0/1:=?30 &307:929,==:B,D:1#42> -,??70,9/3,/?30>@;;:=?:1?307:.,7 -0.,8069:B9?3=:@23:@??30 ;:;@7,?4:9&301423?4927,>?0/5@>??3=00 B:=7/49 "9 ;=47 :1?3,?D0,= /,D>,9/09/0/49?30=,;4//010,?:1?30 ,??3030423?:1?30:7/ ),=,2=:@;:1 @-,90C470>?=,490/-D?30B4?3 49A,/0=> 9:=/0=?:,A:4/,949?0=9,?4:9,7 .=4>4>B34.3.:@7/3,A00>.,7,?0/49?:,9 ?30,;;=:A,7:1?30;=0>4/09?:1?30'94?0/ 0C?=0807D>0=4:@>>4?@,?4:924A09?30%:A40? %?,?0>:390990/D701?!4.,=,2@,1:= '94:9>>@;;:=?:1@-,?30'%>@//097D @-,:9>4C>34;>&3090C?/,D>4C'% B4?3/=0B4?>,0=4,7 ,0=:;7,90>,??,.60/ ?304>7,9/>?3=008474?,=D >@;;:=?70,A492?30 ,4=-,>0>?304=-:8-> 49A,/4921:=.0>,??30 6477492;0:;70,9/ 80=.D:1@-,9?=::;> B:@9/492 &30,-,9/:90/ 49A,/0=>8,9D:1B3:8 "9 ;=47 ?30 2=:@;:1.:@9?0= B0=080=.09,=40>B0=0 =0A:7@?4:9,=40>7,9/0/ ?,609;=4>:90=,9/ :9?308,49-0,.30> 4880/4,?07D?=40/1?0=

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Catedral de la Purísima Concepción Ave. 56 No. 2902 y Calle 29. Tel (43) 525 297. 7am–noon Mon, 7am–3pm Tue–Sun. 7:30am daily.

".+)':.+*8'25,/+4,;+-59 =./).='9)549:8;):+*/4 B/954+5,:.+3'058 (;/2*/4-954:.+)+4:8'2 97;'8+:9*/9:/4-;/9./4,+':;8+9'8+:.++52'99/)'2 ,'E'*+=/:.:=5(+22:5=+89 5,*/,,+8+4:.+/-.:9'4* 9:'/4+*-2'99=/4*5=93'*+ /48'4)+*+6/):/4-:.+ "=+2<+659:2+9 Museo Provincial Ave 54 No. 2702 esq. Calle 27. Tel (43) 519 722. 9am–6pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun.

1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 25 Dec. (with charge).

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The austere façade of the Teatro Tomás Terry

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp258–63 and pp280–82

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Cienfuegos. Road Map C3. 150,000. Carretera de Cajonao, km 3.5, (43) 551 328. Ave. 58 y Calle 4, (43) 525 495. Calle 49, e/ Ave. 56 y 58, (43) 522 898. Cubatur, Calle 37 e/n 54 y 56, (43) 551 242.

Museo Histórico Naval Nacional Ave. 60 y Calle 21, Cayo Loco. Tel (43) 519 143. 10am–6pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 25 Dec.

Palacio Ferrer Ave. 54 esq. Calle 25. Tel (432) 516 584. for cultural events.

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Palacio Ferrer, with its unmistakable blue cupola

Paseo del Prado

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#/,46:;690.05(3)<03+05. 05;/,(9,( (3(*06+,%(33, The characteristic wooden >(:+,:0.5,+)@36*(3(5+ houses of Punta Gorda -69,0.5(9*/0;,*;:,5.(.,+)@ ;/,:<.(94,9*/(5;*0:*36 Punta Gorda +,3%(33,3(5*665,6-;/, ;;/,:6<;/,95;076-;/,)(@ >,(3;/0,:;4,505<)( ; 6- 0,5-<,.6:30,: <5;( >(:)<03;05 C #/0: 69+(C;/,(90:;6*9(;0* ;>6:;69,@)<03+05.>/0*/0: 8<(9;,96-;/,*0;@05;/,,(93@ 56>(9,:;(<9(5;0:3(=0:/3@

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Palacio de Valle, which Batista turned into a casino, now home to a restaurant

The interior of Palacio de Valle, with its Neo-Moorish decoration

"7(50:/:;@3,6-;/,3*EA(9: 05 9(5(+((5+",=033, #/,-(F(+,/(:;/9,,;6>,9: 6-+0--,9,5;+,:0.5:@4)63 0A05.76>,99,30.065 (5+36=,#/,;,99(*,0: 67,5;6;/,7<)30* Cementerio Monumental Tomás de Acea Ave. 5 de Septiembre. Tel (43) 515 257. daily.

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General La Reina Ave. 50 y Calle 7, Reina. daily.

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The statue of Sleeping Beauty in La Reina cemetery in Cienfuegos

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Castillo de Jagua Poblado Castillo de Jagua. Tel (43) 96402. 9am–1pm Mon–Sat. Sun. (with charge).

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Calle Central 136, Pepito Tey, Cienfuegos. Map C3. Tel (43) 545 115. 8am–4:30pm daily. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec.

See pp174–5.

Villa Clara, Sancti Spíritus, Cienfuegos. Map C3. Hotel los Helechos, (42) 540 330.

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Villa Clara. Road Map C3. 250.000. Luis Estévez 323. Carretera Central km 2.5. Havanatur, Calle Maximo Gomez, (42) 204 002; Izla Azul, Calle Lorda 6 (42) 217 338.

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Monument Carretera Camajuaní, junction with railway line. Tel (42) 202 758.

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The group of sculptures in Santa Clara, dedicated to Che Guevara

Conjunto Esculfórico

“Comandante Ernesto Che Guevara” Avenida de los Desfiles, Santa Clara. Tel (42) 205 878. 8am–9pm Tue–Sat, 8am–5pm Sun. (outdoors only).

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp258–63 and pp280–82

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Interior of the Iglesia de San Juan Bautista, Remedios cathedral

Villa Clara. Map C3. 50,000.

Hotel Mascotte, Calle Máximo Gómez 114, (42) 395 144.

Parrandas (24 Dec).

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Plaza Martí, the tranquil central square in Remedios

THE PARRANDAS

A 19th-century print showing people gathering in the square

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Aerial view of the causeway linking Cayo Coco to the mainland

Calle Simón Bolívar in Trinidad, sloping down towards the plain

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Expl Exploring Central Cuba - East 1

From aa cultural i From point of view, the most interesting place in the area is the delightful town of Trinidad. This small town also has a lovely beach nearby and makes a good base for tours to the Sierra del Escambray or for excursions to the Valle de los Ingenios. A transit town, Sancti Spiritus can seem disappointing after Trinidad, while Camagiiey is appealing both for its fascinating Colonial architecture and as an authentic, vibrant Cuban city. The Atlantic coast in the province of Ciego de Avila is good for swimming and diving, especially at Cayo Coco and Guillermo, where there are good tourist facilities.

Playa Prohibida at Cayo Coco, fringed by sand dunes

Cayo* Guillermo

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Palacio Cantero

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Iglesia y Convento de

KEY

STAR SIGHTS

Palacio Brunet

San Francisco

Suggested route

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp263–6 and p282

The Museo de Arqueología Guamuhaya

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Sancti Spíritus. Road Map C3. 50,000. Calle Piro Guinart 224, e/ Maceo e Izquierdo, (419) 2404, 3737. Ave. Simón Bolívar 422, (419) 3348. Cubatur, Calle Simón Bolívar 352, (419) 6368. daily.

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Casa de la Cultura (p189)

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Bolívar, Plaza Mayor. Tel (419) 4432. 8am–5pm daily.

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Museo de Arqueología Guamuhaya, seen from the Casa Ortiz; behind is Palacio Brunet

Museo de Arqueología

Guamuhaya Calle Simón Bolívar 457, e/ Fernando Hernández Echerri y Rubén Martínez Villena, Plaza Mayor. Tel (419) 3420. 9am–5pm Mon–Wed, Fri & Sat, 9am–3pm Sun. Thu.

Alexander von Humboldt

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Palacio Brunet (Museo Romántico) Calle Hernández Echerri 52, esq. Simón Bolívar, Plaza Mayor. Tel (419) 4363. 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. (with charge).

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One of the elegant frescoes decorating Palacio Brunet

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Red tile roof

Wooden supports

Wooden beams " "!" 3;*F0'8 #

TRINIDAD FAÇADES ".+,'E'*+5,:.+:?6/)'2 "8/4/*'*.5;9+.'9'2'8-+ )+4:8'2*558=/:.'93'22+8 *55858*5589);:/4/:,58 +'9?'))+99".+=/4*5=9 9+:92/-.:2?'(5<+-85;4* 2+<+2'8+'2359::.+.+/-.: 5,:.+*558".+?.'<+ 9:854-=55*+49.;::+89 /49:+'*5,-2'99"./9.5;9+ /9/42'@''?584+>::5 :.+ '9' 8:/@

Wrought-iron ornamental motifs

Wooden shutters

The arched windows

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The wooden front door

The 19th-century iron grilles

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The view from the San Francisco bell tower: in the foreground, Plaza Mayor, beyond, the coast

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The river cobblestones (chinas pelonas) used in Trinidad’s streets

Iglesia y Convento

de San Francisco Calle Hernández Echerri, esq. Guinart. Museo de la Lucha contra Bandidos Tel (419) 4121. 9am–5pm Tue–Sun.

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Palacio Cantero

(Museo Histórico Municipal) Calle Bolívar 423. Tel (419) 4460. 9am–5pm Sat–Thu. Fri. (with charge).

"./93'49/54=./).(+254-+* 58/-/4'22?:554 588+22? '*8H4B54+5,:.+3'058 ,/-;8+9/425)'29;-'8685*;) :/54B='96;8).'9+*/4 (?'8G'*+549+88':+ +84D4*+@:.+=/*5=5,' 9;-'83'-4':+?+'82':+8 9.+3'88/+*:.+2'4*5=4+8

The small Plazuela del Jigüe, with its handful of handicrafts stalls

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The Cabildo de San Antonio, with votive offerings and sacred drums

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Iglesia de Santa Ana, on the square of the same name, in eastern Trinidad

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TIPS FOR HIKERS Departure points: Topes de Collantes. Hotel Los Helechos, (42) 540 330. Length: Itinerary A: 3.5 km (2 miles); Itinerary B: 4.5 km (3 miles). Stopping-off point: Hacienda Codina

KEY Major road

La Batata 5

Path

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Itinerary A Itinerary B Parking Hospital 0 kilometres

Santa Clara Manicaragua

Hacienda Codina 4

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1

0 miles

1

2 3

1

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Topes de Collantes 1

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The Forest 2

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9=/:.$'8'*+85' %% . (/)?)2+9)'4(+ ./8+*'4*3'1+'62+'9'4: ='?5,-+::/4-'85;4*:.+ 4)E46+4/49;2' 6659/:+:.+6+4/49;2' ')8599:.+('?/9:.+52*658: 5, Casilda13 3/2+9 ,853"8/4/*'*=.+8+/4 +84B458:C98+)8;/:+*:.+ :85569:.':=+4:54:5 )547;+8+>/)5 4)+'68596+85;9658: :.'419:5:.+9;-'8:8'*+ '9/2*'.'9254-9/4)+ *+)2/4+*'4*/945='(5<+ '22'62')+:.':6+562+6'99 Secluded La Boca beach, shaded by royal poinciana trees :.85;-.54:.+/8='?:5:.+ 95;:.+846'8:5,:.+6+4/49;2' 25)'2(+').+9 :.+8+'8+)53,58:'(2+.5:+29' 962+4*/*(+').'4*'*/);89/549'8+'<'/2'(2+:5 95;:.5,"8/4/*'*/954+ :'1+*/<+89:594581+22/4-9/:+9 Road Map C3. 5,:.+,/89:)5'9:'2'8+'9/4 Excursions from Trinidad at 5;:54:.+)58'28++, ;(':5(+*+<+256+*,58 railway station, (419) 3348; Cubatur, :5;8/93:.+6+4/49;2'5, 58953+,'9)/4':/4-*/<+ Calle Simón Bolívar 352, (419) 6368. 4)E4=.+8+,58+/-4);89/54:5Cayo Blanco ".+,/4+=./:+9'4*'4* +'

Valle de los Ingenios, from the Mirador de la Loma: green swathes of sugar cane at the foot of the Sierra For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp263–6 and p282

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The Iznaga estate tower, with a commanding view of the valley

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ipe cane'&$"." . ( (!!+("(&$. " . ##)((%!#( '$$('##$"'&% ##,&+!,%!#( #&$+#&$")((#' . ". #!$# &%#'#."$#('

The zafra (harvest)( ' %!(+#"&# )#$&&*'(#' (#!')&#($ &"$*($)(&!*'+ $'(&)(&*'(##( %!#')((#'$#+( "#'+!#(!!' ( 3').+:+''(!!)' Transport'($&%($ "#"-((&$&($#$ (')&$'#(($(' ##(!(''%! &!+,#(+$& +')!(# '("(&#'(&*!!(+# (#!'#(')& +$& '$"&'(!!&)###

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Yayabo Bridge

#/,*0;@6-"(5*;0"7H90;<:+,,705;/,/,(9;6- -,9;03,(.90*<3;<9(3*6<5;9@:0+,>(:-6<5+,+ )@0,.6%,3FA8<,A65;/,)(52:6-;/, #<05<*J90=,905 ;>(:46=,+;60;: 79,:,5;:0;,5,(9;/,&(@()690=,9,0./; @,(9:3(;,95 90;0:/709(;,::,;-09,;6;/, ;6>5(365.>0;/(33;/,+6*<4,5;:9,3(;05.;6 0;:-6<5+(;065#/,7630;0*(3,*65640*(5+ Statue of Christ 4030;(9@*,5;9,6-;/,(9,("(5*;0"7H90;<: >(:,4),330:/,+>0;/,3,.(5;4(5:065: beside the cathedral ;/96<./6<;;/, ;/(5+ ;/*,5;<90,: #6+(@0;::4(33(;;9(*;0=,63650(3*,5;9,9,*,0=,:-,> =0:0;69:+,:70;,0;:B5(;065(3465<4,5;D:;(;<:

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Exploring Sancti Spíritus

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eatro

The Yayabo Bridge, leading to the Colonial centre

Principal()90./;)3<, 769;0*6,+*65:;9<*;065)<03;05 (5+9,:;69,+05 ( 3(9., ;/*,5;<9@4(5:065 ;/(;0:56>;/, ,5:(40,5;6 )(9;/,Casa de la Trova( ;@70*(3)(99,:;(<9(5;,:I5 +,3( 3(A((5+;/, 3(*0;(( :4(33:8<(9,>0;/(:;(;<,6- 9!<+,:05+65;6506(9*H( !016(5033<:;906<:*0;0A,5

Museo de Arte Colonial Calle Plácido 74. Tel (41) 254 55. 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sat, 8am–noon Sun. Mon. (with charge).

#/0:-05, ;/*,5;<9@ )<03+05.65*,),365.,+;6;/, A5(.(-(403@ ;0: 56>(4<:,<4>0;/*9@:;(3 769*,3(05-<950;<9,7(05;05.: 4(5@6-;/,4"7(50:/(5+ (:73,5+0+*6<9;@(9+

Recently restored Colonial homes, with their original colours, in one of the streets near the river For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp263–6 and p282

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Sancti Spíritus. Road Map C3. 100,000. Carretera Central, km 2. Avenída Jesús Menéndez. Cubatur, Calle Máximo Gómez 7, (41) 28518.

Parque Serafín Sánchez

#/,/,(9;6-;/,*0;@*65:0:;: 6-(;9(58<03:8<(9,>0;/;9,,: Environs 96<5+24 403,:,(:;6- (5+(*/(9405. .(A,)6:<996<5+,+)@,6 "(5*;0"7H90;<:05;/,+09,*;065 3(::0*(3)<03+05.:5(;065(3 6-0,.6+,E=03(5(;<9,36=,9: (5+-(5:6--0:/05.*(5,516@ 465<4,5;;/, (98<,0: +,+0*(;,+;6",9(-H5"F5*/,A Presa Zaza(5(9;0-0*0(33(2, >,33:;6*2,+>0;/;96<;(5+ (36*(3/,9605;/,>(9:6- )3(*2)(::#6<9:6-;/,3(2, 05+,7,5+,5*,>/6:,/6<:, 0:67,5;6;/,7<)30*05;/, +,7(9;-964;/,'(A(/6;,3 The interior of the Parroquial 5,(9)@(33,+,G:7,+,:5 >/03,;/,:/69,:(9,0+,(3:76;: Mayor during mass ;/,,=,505.:;/,73(A(0:( -69)09+>(;*/05. 9,:('(A(0:

Parroquial Mayor 767<3(9.(;/,905.73(*, <)(:3(9.,:;4(54(+,3(2, del Espíritu Santo #/,46:;56;()3,)<03+05.: (5+0:;/,=,5<,-69(4(169 Calle Agramonte Oeste 58. 05;,95(;065(3-0:/05.*64 /,9,(9,;/,,5;96+, Tel (41) 248 55. 9–11am 7,;0;065,=,9@",7;,4),9 (;9046506>0;/)96(+ Tue–Sat, 8–11am Sun. 8pm Tue :;(05,+.3(::>05 & Thu, 5pm Wed & Fri, 10am Sun. +6>:(5+",=033, $:05.465,@+65(;,+)@65 46:(0*:;/,3(9., .5(*06+,%(3+0=0(;/,36*(3 Biblioteca 4(@69;/,79,:,5;*/<9*/>(: 30)9(9@(5+;/, )<03;6-:;65,05 6=,9;/, Hotel Perla de 690.05(3 ;/*,5;<9@>66+,5 Cuba65,6-;/, */<9*/;/(;/(+),,5+,:;96@,+ 46:;,?*3<:0=, )@709(;,:;0:65,6-<)(: /6;,3:05<)(05 ;/,,(93@ : 63+,:;*/<9*/,:#/,:0473, #/, Hotel Plaza (5+:630+)<03+05.0:9,4050: *,5;6-;/,7(90:/*/<9*/,:6- >/6:,)(90: 767<3(9>0;/ 5+(3<:0((5+:;033/(:0;: ;/,36*(3:-694: 690.05(3,?8<0:0;,3@>692,+ Chatting in the Parque Serafín Sánchez in the 7(9;6-(63650(3 evening, a popular pastime >66+,5*,0305.:#/,4

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Parque Martí in Ciego de Ávila, with a monument to José Martí

Road Map D3. 100,000.

Hotel Ciego de Ávila, Carretera a Ceballos, (33) 228 013.

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THE COCKEREL OF MORON C-+):-.=467<<7-6,=8413-<0-+7+3-:-47.7:H6?01+0 47;<1<;.-)<0-:;);?-44);1<;+:-;<E$01;#8)61;0;)A16/ ,)<-;*)+3<7<0- ;?0-6<0-/7>-:67:7.<0- 6,)4=;1)6>144)/-7.7:H6,-4):76<-:)?0747:,-,1< 7>-:<0-47+)4.):5-:;)6,?);367?6);C+7+3-:-4E .7:01;)::7/)6+-)6,8:-;=58<=7=;6-;;?);8=61;0-,?1<0 )/77,<0:);016/)6,<0:7?67=<7.<7?6*A<0-)6/:A +1<1B-6;$0-->-6<*-+)5-?-44367?6)6,<7 +755-57:)<-1<);<)<=-7.)84=+3-,:77;<-:?);;-<=816 <0-5)16)>-6=-'0-6)+755=61
'0-6 1-/7,->14)?); .7=6,-,16 *A<0- +769=1;<),7:G+75-,-F>14) 11;1<7:; 51,,4-7.)?77,) Ciego de Ávila. Road Map D3. +)6-627A*7<0<0-:=:)4 <764A*-+)5-)*76).1,- 45,000. Cubanacán, +1)4;7.#8)61;07:1/16 Calle Colón 49, (33) 502 182. :=:)4<7?6?1<014))<7?6?1<0)476/ $0-.-?>1;1<7:; <0-9=):<-:?0-:- ?07+75-0-:-):- ;<)6,16/:1>)4:A?1<07:H6 )5)1+)6)6,)1<1)6 57;<4A76<0-1:?)A $0-:7),1;367?6.7:1<; 1551/:)6<;41>- 1-/7,-F>14) <7<0- 16<0- 7++=8)<17616 *A )4;70);)+A+416/ ):,16-;,-4"-A 6)<176)41;<:-*-4; One of La ;+0774?01+01; ):+018-4)/7 ).<-:<0-A0),5)6)/-,<7 Trocha’s redoubts )<<-6,-,*A+014,:-6 *:-)+0<0-#8)61;0,-.-6+- 6A76-?07,7-; ;<787..;07=4,>1;1< .:75)447>-:<0- 7:H6?);.7=6,-,);) <0- Teatro Principal 1;4)6, < 8180)6A<0-<7?6 >144)16 )6,:-<)16;) ;5)44?-448:-;-:>-,74761)4 )6,<0-Museo Histórico 1;<0-;<):<16/8716<.7:<0- +-6<:-$0-Museo Municipal Provincial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street in Morón with pastel-coloured houses and arcades <7<0-8=*41+

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp263–6 and p282

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Isla Turiguanó, the unusual “Dutch village” near Morón

16<0- ;);07:<,1;<)6+- .7:84)<.7:5.1;016/.7:4):/- .:75<7?616+4=,16/).)57=; <:781+)4.1;0$0-:-):-)4;7 ;<)<=-<<-<0-,741447,-)::7 0=6<16/:-;-:>-;<0-7<7,- )B),-7:H6)6,7<7,- Museo Municipal )B) /=)+0)4-;,-)4) Calle Martí 374 e/ Antuña y Cervantes. Tel (33) 504 501. 8am–5pm Mon–Tue, 8am–10pm Wed–Sat, 8am–noon Sun. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 25 Dec.

Environs

+)=;-?)A 35 514-; 476/*=14<16 );)4163 *-1;1<7:;<7/-<<7<0-47>-4A *-)+0-;<0-+7:)4:--.)6, <0-0741,)A>144)/-;?01+0):- +=::-6<4A+76+-6<:)<-,76 )A7 7+7)6,)A7 =144-:57 Ciego de Ávila, Camagüey. 7?->-:=*)66)<176)4; Road Map D3. <0-5;-4>-;0)>-4151<-, 6<0-<4)6<1+ +-)667:<0 )++-;;<7<0-):+018-4)/7 )A7!):-,H6:)6,- 7.<0-8:7>16+-7.1-/7,- 35 514-;476/1; F>14)<0-#)*)6))6, <0-<01:,4):/-;< )5)/J-A):+01 8-4)/7-;367?6 1;4)6,16<0- +744-+<1>-4A); ):,16-; 4<07=/0 <0-:-):-6707<-4; C):,16-;,-4"-AE 16+4=,-)*7=< 1<1;?7:<0>1;1<16/ The lighthouse at ;5)441;4)6,; .7:<0-47>-4A )457;<)447.?01+0 Cayo Paredón Grande *-)+0-;)6,<0- ):-=6160)*1<-, +7:)40);;75-.16- $0-A?-:-,1;+7>-:-,16 ,1>-;1<-;<77$0-:-):-/77,

*A<0-+769=1;<),7: >1-?;7.<0-,1;<16+<1>-*4)+3 1-/7&-4GB9=-B?07?);;7 )6,A-447?1-/7&-4GB9=-B ;<:=+3*A<0-5<0)<0-,-,1 1/0<07=;-*=14<*A016-;+)<-,<0-5<7<0-316/:-A 1551/:)6<;16 ):47;&$0-A4)<-:*-+)5-) 4<07=/08):<7.<0-8:7>16+- 01,16/84)+-.7:81:)<-;)6, 7. )5)/J-A )A7 "75)67 *-476/;6)<=:)44A<7<01;):+01 ).<-:<0-7..1+1)4)*741<1767. ;4)>-:A)+4)6,-;<16-4)6,16/ 8-4)/7 <;5):;0A+7);<416-1; <0-0)*1<)<7.5)6)<--; 8716<.7:;4)>-;

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Domestic airport

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La Loma

• • San Rafael

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Ciego de Ávila. Road Map D3. Carretera Cayo Guillermo, (33) 309 165. Cubanacán, Hotel Tryp Club Cayo Coco, (33) 301 300; Cubatur Cayo Coco, (33) 301 436; Havanatur, Hotel Tryp Cayo Coco, (33) 301 300. Marina Marlín, Cayo Coco, (33) 301 323; Marina Marlin, Cayo Guillermo (33) 301 737.

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The courtyard at Casa Agramonte, where concerts are performed

Casa Natal de

Ignacio Agramonte Calle Ignacio Agramonte 459, e/ Independencia y Cisneros. Tel (32) 297 116. 9am–4:30pm Tue–Sat, 8:30am–noon Sun. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 25 Dec. (with charge).

Iglesia de la Merced Plaza de los Trabajadores 4. Tel (32) 292 783. 9am–3pm Mon–Sat, 8–11am & 4–7pm Sun. 5pm Mon–Sat, 9am & 6pm Sun.

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The Cinco Esquinas (Five Corners), one of the town’s more complicated junctions

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Plazuela de la Bedoya, dominated by the Iglesia del Carmen

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Plaza San Juan de Dios, known for its well-preserved Colonial architecture

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24 403,:6- accessible by car or catamaran /(5+*(5=0:0;;/,<,=(+, -05,>/0;,:(5+3(77,+)@ !63(5+6(*(=, 4 ;<98<60:,>(=,:#/,3(9., -;365.>0;/(:<);,99(5,(5 *69(39,,-653@24 403,: 3(2, 4 -;(*96::;/, -964;/,:/69,0:(:*<)( Camagüey. Map D3. )6;;646->/0*//(:56; +0=,9:7(9(+0:, ; #6.,;/,9>0;/(@6 !64(56 @,;),,5,?7369,+ :/,3;,9:;/,*6(:;-964;/, 5;/,5,0./)6<905.%(33,+,3 *<99,5;:6-;/,(5(3%0,16+, (5+ (@6 <(1()(;/0::4(33 0:3(5+-694:7(9;6-( !E6C?0460:;/,Paso de los (/(4(:;/<::(-,.<(9+05. 796;,*;,+(9,(;0:;/,/64, Paredones(365.+,,7 *(34:>04405.*65+0;065: 6-+,,9(5+;/,3(9.,:;*6365@ 9(=05,>0;//63,:*(<:,+)@ -69(+<3;:(5+*/03+9,5(302, 6--3(405.6:05<)((:>,33 >(;,9,96:065:64,(:4<*/ (:>,33(:*9,(;05.(.66+ (:(5,:;05.(9,(-69-6<9 (: 4 -;+,,7(5+<7 (9,(-6979(*;0:05.(33>(;,9

The pier at Playa Santa Lucía, departure point for boats going out to the coral reef Playa Los Cocos, near Playa Santa Lucía

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-965;0,9;6>5 ),;>,,5*,5;9(3 (5+,(:;,95<)( (5+(56)30.(;69@ ;9(5:0;7605;-69 (5@65,.605.;6 "(5;0(.6#/,/0:;690* *,5;9,/(::64, 63650(3)<03+05.: )<;564(169 465<4,5;:6-56;, 6>,=,9;/,*0;@ +6,:/(=,4(5@ (9;0:;::;<+06: The town hall of Las Tunas #/, Museo Histórico Provincial 05;/,;6>5/(33/(:(9*/(,6 ;/,"7(50:/;6/(3;;/, 36.0*(3-05+:(5++6*<4,5;: (+=(5*,6-;/,(4)E(5+ 9,3(;05.;6;/,/0:;69@6-;/, ;/,*0;@6-Puerto Padre;/, 796=05*,#/,,4690(3(36: :*,5,6-4(169)(;;3,:05;/, #,5',(9:&(9 B C9;09,:+,(9)(+6:*64 #/,),:;),(*//,9,0: 4,469(;,:(;,99690:;(*; Playa Covarrubias5,(9 <,9;6 (.(05:; <)(*(990,+6<;05 (+9,65;/,;3(5;0**6(:; ()64),?736+,+65( <)(5((,9673(5,/,(+,+-69 (=(5(203305.7(::,5.,9: Las Tunas. Map E3. (5+;/,,5;09,*9,> 100,000. =,9@@,(9(:#<5(: Hotel Las Tunas, Ave. 2 de :7905.:;630-,65;/,6**(:065 diciembre, (31) 450 14. Jornada 6-;/,695(+((*065(3 Nacional Cucalambeana (end of Jun). Ciego de Ávila, Camagüey. Map D4. <*(3(4),(5(+,+0*(;,+;6 Júcaro, Embarcadero Avalón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nvirons ;/,:,0:3(5+:*(5),9,(*/,+

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp263–6 and p282

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Provincial de Historia) Calle Frexes 198, e/ Manduley y Maceo. Tel (24) 463 395. 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun. 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 Dec. (with charge).

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San Isidoro Cathedral, in the spacious Parque Peralta

Catedral de San Isidoro Calle Manduley, e/ Luz Caballero y Aricoches, Parque Peralta. Tel (24) 422 107. 2:30–6:30pm Mon, 7am– noon & 2:30–6pm Tue–Sun. daily.

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View of Gibara, an appealing seaside town with a Colonial centre

/9:58?;9+;3.'954+5, :.+(+9:(;::+8,2?)522+):/549 /4;(''4*:.+Museo de Holguín. Road Map E3. Holguín. Road Map E3. Artes Decorativas+)58':/<+ 100,000. from Holguín. '9:5,/('8'/9'('?=/:. 8:9;9+;3/9.5;9+*/4' !5;:.5,:.+('?:.':52;3(;9 3'-4/,/)+4: :.)+4:;8? '96/:5,2'4*/4:.+3/**2+ 4'3+* D5*+'8+9:.+8/<+8 3'49/54"./92'9:)54:'/49 )'22+*'?5*+'8/'?59: 5,9+'9/9:.+6/):;8+97;+ ,/4++>'362+95, ./9:58/'49(;:45:'8')5'49 :5=45,/('8'4:.+ :. '4* '-8++:.':52;3(;9 )+4:;8?:./9='9:.+3'/4658: '9=+22'9;('4,;84/ ,/89:2'4*+*.+8+/4 %/:. 54:.+458:.+84)5'9:5,:.+ :;8+'4*8:5;<+';5(0+):9 /:9'(;4*'4:,25=+89'4*:8++9 6856258+84 Naturales '8)./:+):;8+/4:.+'8+'/('8' Calle Maceo 131, e/ Martí y Luz 54:.+ :.'44/<+89'8? 5,52;3(;92'4*/4-/4;(' /9953+:/3+9145=4'9A$/22' Caballero. Tel (24) 423 935. 2'4)'B=./:+:5=4(+)';9+ 9am–10pm Tue–Sat, 9am–9pm Sun. '354;3+4:)'22+* 5,/:9=./:+.5;9+9 A4)5;4:+8B*+*/)':+*:5:.+ 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 "'D454*/'49='9+8+):+* ".+9.'*?'2+)E49+',854: Dec. (with charge). .'9'9:':;+5,52;3(;9 .+8+".+9/:+/98+2':/<+2? Museo de Artes 9.5=4-'@/4-'::.+.58/@54 Decorativas 8+35:+/,:8'<+22/4-(?)'8 '8;/4+*-'88/954'4*
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Holguín. Road Map F3.

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Holguín. Road Map F4.

"./9)5;4:8?:5=4 13 395;:.=+9:5,52-;D4 /925)':+*/4:.+3/**2+5,' <'9:'4*8/).+>)'<':/54@54+ :.+685+9:+88')5::'<'9+9 ,2/4:14/<+9'4*359: 4+)85652/9/4;(''4* 45:'(2?' )3 /4 :.+4:/22+9::./9 ;43/99'(2+9/:+ ./-.,/-;8+5,'=53'4/4 '8).'+525-/9:9 -52*145=4'9:.+C*525 .'<+,5;4* *+85:='9,5;4* 91+2+:549'4* Ídolo de Oro, Museo 4+'8'4+9'4* Indocubano Bani '4;3(+85, *':+9,853:.+ :.)+4:;8? )2'?5(0+):9(54+ '3;2+:9,;4+8'8?5,,+8/4-9 Museo Indocubano Bani '4**+)58':+*9.+229 22:./93':+8/'2)'4(+9++4 Calle General Barrero 305, e/ Martí y Céspedes. Tel (24) 824 87. ,853'(5'8*='21/49/*+:.+ 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, 8am–noon

'8+)549:8;):/54 Sun. (with charge). 5,'68+52;3(/'48;8'2 Skeletons found in the necropolis of Chorro de Maita

The lovely clear turquoise sea at Guardalavaca, Eastern Cuba’s Varadero

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Holguín. Road Map F4.

The coves at Cayo Saetía, known for their fine white sand

Holguín. Road Map F4. 30,000.

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Plaza de la Revolución, also known as Parque Céspedes, in Bayamo For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp266–9 and p283

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Interior of the Parroquial Mayor de San Salvador

Parroquial Mayor de San Salvador Plaza del Himno esq. José Joaquín Palma. Tel (23) 422 514. 9am–noon & 3–5pm daily.

The monument dedicated to the national anthem, La Bayamesa

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Manuel de Céspedes Calle Maceo 57, e/ Marmol y Palma. Tel (23) 423 864. 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, 9am–noon & 8–10pm Sat, 10am–1pm Sun.

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Façade of the birthplace of Carlos Manuel de Céspedes

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Granma. Road map E4. “Sierra Maestra”, 8 km (5 miles) south of town. Bayamo, Camagüey, Havana, Pilón, Yara.

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The Glorieta Morisca de Manzanillo, where the municipal band plays

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• Niquero Punto Nuevo •

Parque Nacional Desembarco del Granma

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• Bélic 3

4

• Cabo Cruz

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp266–9 and p283

5

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Manzanillo • Bayamo

Yara •

1

Departure point: Manzanillo. Length: 350 km (220 miles). Stop-off points: Campismo Las Coloradas (huts and restaurant), 4 km (2 miles) southwest of Bélic. For lodging: Hotel Farallón del Caribe and Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, Pilón (see p267).

Southern Coast

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Pilón

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0 km 0 miles

6

• Pilón

7

Mota Uno •

KEY Tour route

8

Marea del Portillo

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Santiago de Cuba

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Granma, Santiago de Cuba. Road Map F4. Cubanacán, Santiago de Cuba, (22) 642 202, 641 752, 641 891; Cubanacán, Hotel Sierra Maestra, km 1.5 Carretera Santiago de Cuba, (23) 427 202.

&23=8+>398+6:+<5A23-2 -9@/<=+8+2/ View from the Pico Turquino, the highest mountain in Cuba :<9@38-/=90<+87++8. %+8>3+19./?,+&23=3= A2/2/7+49<:/+5=90>2/ 973819C9?-+81998>9 ,/9<1+83D/.38(366+%+8>9 Comandancia de la Plata 3=6+8.+<9=2/+.;?+<>/<=38>2/ #3-9&?<;?389+> 7 -+8,/23 0>>2/2312/=>38?,+ =/2/39838>2/ +=A/66+==3>/=7+./0+79?= +=7+66-+7:29=:3>+6+8.>2/ 79?8>+38=3=+@+36+,6//3>2/< =3>/0<97A23-22/ ?/@+<+ ,C>2/1?/<<366+A+-+7:=3>/=9<38=37:6/ 7+./23=<+.39,<9+.-+=>= ,C3./6+=><9+8. /29A/@/<>2+> 97+8.+8-3+./6+#6+>+3= >2/

=38-/7?-290>23=+E 7363>+3=89>+6A+C= &2/7+38=>+<>381 +829?<=A+65>2<9?12 :938>092/ 9:/8>9>2/:?,63- 69@/6C>29?1290>/8 %3/<<+ +/=><+3=Villa >:3>3=:9==3,6/>9 Santo Domingo+,9?> 0911C09&2/ .9+>22 +9 +-<9==>2/:+<5,/1388381+> 90>2/+C+79E +8+>398+6:+<538 6>9./6!+<+849+8./8.381 +8D+83669<9+.

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Santiago de Cuba. Road Map F4. Carretera Central 21, (22) 361 31. daily. procession (8 Sep).

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The Basilica del Cobre, surrounded by tropical vegetation

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The austere interior of the Sanctuary of the Virgen del Cobre

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THE VIRGEN DEL COBRE --9<.381>96/1/8.38 >22/-9::/< 738/=9069,2/+C90!3:/900>2/89<>2 -9+=>90?,+,C>2/=>+>?/90 +,6+-5(3<138 +2/96C236.382/<+<7= &2/C2+.,//8-+?12>38+ The statue of the =>9<7A236/9?>38+,9+> Virgen del Cobre +8.A9?6.2+@/.<9A8/. 2+.89>>2/(3<138A29=/ 37+1/A+=069+>381+7981>2/A+@/=-97/>9 >2/3<+3.8C3>=//7=>2+>>2/=>+>?/ +<<3@/.38?,+,C=23:0<9766/=-+=+>9A8 38+=>36/?:98>2/90>2/19@/<89< %F8-2/D./ 9C+A29A+8>/.+%:+83=2 +.988+09<>2/@366+1/9069,/@/<>2/>238

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A group of ex-votos offered by the barbudos

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp266–9 and p283

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SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

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Santiago de Cuba. Road Map F4. 400,000. 7 km (4 miles) south of town. Ave. Jesús Menéndez, esq. Hechevarría. Ave. de los Libertadores, esq. Yarayó, (22) 628 484. Havanatur, Hotel Santiago, Calle M y Ave de las Américas, (22) 644 402; Cubatur, Ave. Garzón e/ 3ra y 4ta, (22) 652 560. Festival del Caribe (early Jul), Carnival (late Jul).

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Customers at La Isabelica, an atmospheric historic café

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STAR SIGHTS

Casa de Diego Velázquez

Museo Provincial Bacardí Moreau

Catedral de la Asunción

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp266–9 and p283

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The Casa de la Cultura Miguel

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A room with Colonial furniture in Diego Velázquez’s house

Casa de Diego Velázquez

(Museo de Ambiente Histórico Cubano) Calle Félix Peña 612, e/ Heredia y Aguilera. Tel (22) 652 652. 9am–5pm Mon–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun. (with charge).

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The courtyard in the 19th-century wing of Diego Velázquez’s house

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THE 16TH-CENTURY MUDEJAR-STYLE HOUSE 76;1,-:-,<0-74,-;<8:1>)<-*=14,16/16=*))6,,-+4):-, )6)<176)4576=5-6<*-+)=;-7.1<;01;<7:1+>)4=-<0- <0+-6<=:A;-+<1767.%-4FB9=-B;07=;-1;).16--@)584- 7.<0-=*)6>-:;1767.<0- $ 77:1;0;
The courtyard5=,H2): " ! !

Wooden screens

Frescoes! +-6-.);

Cedar ceilings! )4.):2-;! "

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The lovely wooden inlaid choir in the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción

<14-,.477:;)6,1;?-44?7:<0 )>1;1<:75<0-4):/- Calle Heredia, e/ Lacret y Félix Peña. Calle Heredia 260, e/ Hartmann -6<:)6+-0)44?1<0)+7..-:-, Tel (22) 628 502. 8:30am–1pm (San Félix) y Pío Rosado (Carniceria). +-1416/)6,8)16<16/;7.<0- Tue–Sat; Sun am. & 5–7pm Tue–Sat, 8–10:30am & 87-<;)6+-;<7:;76<0-?)44; 5–7pm Sun. 6:30pm Tue–Fri, 1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, )4):/-):+04-),;16<7<0- 5pm Sat, 9am & 6:30pm Sun. 25 Dec. +-6<:)48-:1;-)6, 6)<176)41;<87-<7;H )*=6,)6<>-/-<)<176 .7=:)1;4-;)6)8;- ):I)-:-,1) <0-::775;16<0-07=;- )6,)6):<0-@7: D?);*7:6 16+4=,--:-,1);*-,:775 >-;<1*=4-)<<0-*)+3 -:-,1)01/04A ?01+00);)6158:-;;1>- #0-+0=:+00);*--6 :-/):,-,.7:01; 5)07/)6A*-,)6,-4-/)6< :-*=14<;->-:)4<15-; 7,-;<76)<=:- )6<19=-4)58; 7>-:<0-+-6<=:1-; ;07=4,67<*- =4<=:)4->-6<;)6,87-<:A :-),16/;):-7.<-60-4,16<0- #0-7:1/16)4?); +76.=;-,?1<001; 5=;-=5;4):/-87:<1+7-;6 *=14<16

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Señora de la Asunción

Casa Natal de José María Heredia

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Techos de Santiago de Cuba by Felipe González, Museo Bacardí

Museo Provincial

Bacardí Moreau Calle Pío Rosado (Carniceria), esq. Aguilera. Tel (22) 628 402. 10am–6pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm Sun. (with charge).

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Part of an elaborate float in the Museo del Carnaval

Decorated tumbadoras (see p31) in the Museo del Carnaval

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Lucha Clandestina Calle Rabí 1, e/ San Carlo y Santa Rita. Tel (22) 624 689. 9am–5pm Tue–Sun.

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The bombo, a drum with a deep sound

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Museo Histórico 26 de

Julio – Cuartel Moncada Calle General Portuondo (Trinidad), e/ Moncada y Ave de los Libertadores. Tel (22) 620 157. 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, 9am–noon Sun. (with charge).

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,-=417?01+016.)+< 3144-,16 1587:<)6<7.?01+0?-:- de Antonio Maceo

Calle Los Maceos 207, e/ Corona y Rastro. Tel (22) 623 750. 9am–5pm Mon–Sat. (with charge).

The impressive façade of the former Moncada army barracks, now a school and museum

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Plaza de la Revolución

The monument to General Maceo in Plaza de la Revolución

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Plaza de Marte

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Underground passageways

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The stone stairway

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STAR SIGHTS

View of the Bay Central Square For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp266–9 and p283

Plataforma de la Punta (morrillo, or bluff)

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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Santiago de Cuba. Carretera del Morro, km 7,5. Road Map F4. Tel (22) 691 569. 8am–7pm daily.

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Dry moat

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Three separate main structures$6+-50/(+7'

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$065,. .+-'44065*8'450(5*'%'/53'0(#/5+#)0#5 5*''/&0(5*'#33'5'3#63<45+%#8*+%*&'41+5'+54/#.'+4 #3#5*'31003-:.#+/5#+/'&53#((+%(+--'&30#&+4#3+/#6/5# 03&#30.*'3'('33+'4%3044 07'350#4.#--+4-#/&+/5*' .+&&-'0(5*'$#:*+4+4#:0 3#/.#*0.'50#1+%563'426' (+4*+/)7+--#)'.#&'610( .6-5+%0-063'&*654#/&4.#-- *064'4$6+-50/1+-'4*+4 +4-#/&+4#1'#%'(6-1-#%'0(( 5*'$'#5'/53#%,8+5*0/-: 0/'3'45#63#/5#/&#$6/&#/5 )3''/'3:;#)00&1-#%'50 3'-#9+/#/&306/&0(( View of Cayo Granma from #7+4+550#/5+#)0&'6$# the Carretera Turística

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The Cafetal La Isabelica2'$

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Jardín Botánico (Botanic Garden)

Siberia

La Isabélica

Perseverancia Tres Arroyos

• Abel Santamaría "#,,.%)-.+!+' 0#-" 0(+$,2.' El Palenque • ' (+#!'+-#,-,0, %#(.-#'-"%- , "#,)%21-', (+ $& &#%'' %,(/#02+ Granjita Siboney (see p236)

• Las Guásimas •

Siboney •

At the Oasis "$,20$

+ , &$#!6 02(121 4(1(2-01" ,&-'-01$ 0(#(,& ,#5 2"' 0-#$-1'-51

Playa Siboney(12'$% 4-30(2$

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Damaiayabo

El Oasis

•

Juraguá

•

Museos y Exposiciones de la Punta, (see p237)

KEY Major road Path River Recommended beach Viewpoint Ruins of old cafetales

"#,"#%+',)+$ -.+,".!,.%)-.+,( #'(,.+,'-"+#,%,(-.+%#,-(+2.,.&

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp266–9 and p283

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S I E R R A

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Santiago de Cuba. Road Map F4. Tours in the park Cubatur, Ave. Garzón e/ 3ra y 4ta, Santiago de Cuba, (22) 652 560 or (22) 687 010.

M A E S T R A S I E R R A

Bac ona

Indio

o

Kentucky

0 kilometres

3

0 miles

L A R G

3

A

• María del Pilar

San Jimy Gran Sofía

S I E R R A

D E

L A

G R A N

P I E D R A

Sig

ua

Sigua

•

Exposición Mesoamericana (see p237)

Jardín de Cactus (Cactus Garden)

The sea bed(,2'$ 0$ !$25$$,

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A strelitzia in flower at the Gran Piedra Jardín Botánico

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The spectacular view from the Gran Piedra

Granjita Siboney Carretera Siboney km 13,5. Tel (22) 391 68. 9am–5pm daily. (with charge).

Gran Piedra Jardín Botánico daily.

Cafetal La Isabelica Carretera de la Gran Piedra km 14. daily.

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Interior of the Cafetal La Isabelica owner’s manor house

&

Reproductions of pre-Columbian objects, Exposición Mesoamericana

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Conjunto de Museos

Exposición

y Exposiciones de la Punta

Mesoamericana

Carretera de Baconao. daily.

Carretera de Baconao. daily.

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#

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Guantánamo. Road Map F4. 200,000.

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Joseíto Fernández, composer of the song Guantanamera

The Parroquial de Santa Catalina de Riccis in the Parque Martí

Provincial=./).)54:'/49' )522+):/545,*5);3+4:96.5:5 -8'6.9'4*5(0+):98+2':+*:5 :.+./9:58?5,:.+685
+>)+6::.59+=.52/<+:.+8+ '4*:.59+=/:.'96+)/'26'99 ".+8+/9'.5:+2/4'/3'4+8' (;:?5;4++*' 6+83/::59:'? Museo Provincial ".+#!4'<'2('9+/945: de Guantánamo 56+4:5:.+6;(2/)5=+<+8 Plaza Martí, esq. Prado. /:)'4(+A96/+*C54,853'4 Tel (21) 325 872. 2–6pm Mon, ;4;9;'2
1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, 25 +>/9:/4-3/2/:'8?)533'4*659: Dec. (with charge). (?:.+;('4';:.58/:/+9=.5 45=3'1+:.+359:5,:.+/8 62'/49:.+8+'9549=.?;(' Zoológico de Piedra :='9 ='4:9:.+#!:5-/<+(')1:./9 ,5;4*+*(?4-+2G/-5' :+88/:58? *+:'/2+*35*+25, ,'83+8'4*9+2,:';-.:9);26:58 :.+('9+/9'29554
1 Jan, 1 May, 26 Jul, 10 Oct, =/:./4';('43/2/:'8?@54+ 25 Dec. '4*/95,,2/3/:9:5+<+8?54+

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp266–9 and p283

! "

Guantánamo. Road Map F4.

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#

THE AMERICAN NAVAL BASE 4 :.+#!B:.+/9:+4)+49/*+:.+('9+:.+3+4/'2 05(9'8+*54+(?;+8:5 /)'49:.+=/<+95,:.+9+8
Guantánamo. Road Map F4.

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Mirador Los Malones: a telescope looking over the American base

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View from one of the observation points along La Farola road

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$0-74,-;<+1144)?);.7=6,-,76 =/=;< local crop 76)+=:>-,*)A<0)<0),*--6 ,1;+7>-:-,;75- A-):;-):41-:*A74=5*=;)6, 155-,1)<-4A*-+)5-<0-8741<1+)4)6,-++4-;1);<1+)4 +)81<)47.=*)7?->-:<01;;<)<=;?);;07:<41>-,6 <0-+1
The Cruz de la Parra, perhaps brought to Cuba by Columbus

Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción Calle Maceo 152. Tel (21) 643 352. 9am–noon & 2–6pm Mon– Sat, 9am–noon Sun. 5:30pm Mon–Fri, 8pm Sat, 10am Sun.

A street in Baracoa, dominated by lush vegetation

Exploring Baracoa

Parque Independencia

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A typical single-storey wooden house in Baracoa

The bay of Baracoa viewed from the Castillo de Seboruco

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Fuerte Matachín

El Malecón

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST $01;1;<0-;-).:76<<0)< Guantánamo. Road Map F4. Calle Martí y Malecón. Tel (21) 642 +766-+<;<0-1,-;)616<-:-;<16/ ?-;<67?):-;<)=:)6<$0- Maceo 149 esq. Pelayo Cuervo, 7>-:>1-?7.47+)401;<7:A )4-+H61;1,-)4.7:) (21) 645 306. Sat. 1;07=;-,16)5141<):A 9=1-<;<:744,=:16/<0- .7:<:-;;*=14<,=:16/ ?--3 6#)<=:,)A;) *=;<416/.77,5):3-< <0- 74761)48-:17, ;0-*-+)5-)+<1>-16<0- <7,-.-6,<0-+1-5-6<)6, .:7581:)<-;!1:)+A 57:616/)6,16<0- -6<-:<)16-, );<:70-)6, ?);8):<1+=4):4A)+<1>- ->-616/<0-:7),1; 7<0-::->74=<176):1-; 16<0- <0)6, 8:-8):-,.7:<0- $0-07<-4.7A-:0);807<7 <0+-6<=:1-; ) Statue of /:)80;)6,:-41+;*-476/16/ $0-,1;84)A;;<):< 41>-4A.743.-;<1>)4 Columbus, Museo ,=:16/?01+08-784- <7<01;-++-6<:1+.1/=:-?07 ?1<0):+0)-747/1+)4 Municipal garden -)<,:163)6,,)6+- ?);4)<-:1557:<)41B-,*A .16,;7.<0-8:- <0-67>-41;<4-27 ):8-6<1-: 74=5*1)6-:))6, )476/<0-;-).:76< 1601;?7:3 ):-.7447?-,*A,7+=5-6<; 5)8;8)16<16/;)6,8:16<; Hotel La Rusa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he rundown exterior of the Hotel La Rusa ;-)?):,;)6,);5)44/):,-6 (Museo Municipal)

THE CENTRE OF BARACOA

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp266–9 and p283

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Road Map F4.

#-*;&11*>+*)'>9-*!D4 #4&:'&8'.,,*897.;*7<&8 7*(*391>2&)*&3&9:7* 7*8*7;*9-*Parque Natural Río Toa"9.111&(0.3,.374&)8 The mountain of El Yunque, dominating the bay of Baracoa &3)+&(.1.9.*89-.85&70.85&79 4+&<.)*7&3,.3,574/*(994 (7*&9*7*+:,*8&3)(&25.3, 86:&7*24:39&.39-&914408 1.0*&3.81&3)B.3

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Playa Maguaná, one of the unspoilt beaches near Baracoa For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp266–9 and p283

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Río Miel, flowing through virtually virgin tropical forest between Baracoa and Boca de Yumurí

9-*!D4#4&.8Playa Maguaná 9-*2489'*&:9.+:1'*&(-.39-* 574;.3(*<.9-)&??1.3,<-.9* 8&3)#-*'*&(-83).&33&2* 7*+*78949-*57*8*3(*4+& 3*&7'>&7(-&*414,.(&18.9* 02 2.1*(47&17**+1.*8 431> 2 +9+7429-* 8-47**<&73*)9-4:,-9-&9 9-*8*&(&34+9*3'*7&9-*7 (-455>.39-.8&7*& #-*7*.8&24)*73-41.)&> ;.11&,*-.))*3&243,9-* (4(43:95&128<-*7*;.11&8 (&3'*7*39*)':99-.851&(* .889.11)*1.,-9+:11>:3854.19

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POLYMITA SNAILS ,*3:8*3)*2.(94 9-*&7&(4&&7*&9-* #.8&83&.1<.9-& '7.11.&391>(414:7*)8-*11 Patterned ((47).3,949-*(414:78.= Polymita shells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Viewing Haiti from Punta Maisí, at the eastern-most tip of Cuba

TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY 248269 WHERE TO EAT 270283 SHOPS AND MARKETS 284287 ENTERTAINMENT 288291 SPORTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 292295

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4+&((4224)&9.43<.9- .3(* <-*3:'& (-4.(*8 7&3,.3, +742 )*(.)*) 94 45*3 .98 24)*731:=:7>-49*18<.9- +7439.*7894+47*.,3 8<.22.3,54418&3),44) ;.8.9478 9-* ,74<9- .3 854798+&(.1.9.*8944143.&1 94:7.82-&84'1.,*)9-* (.9>(*397*-49*18&3)&11 ,4;*732*39 94 .3;*89 Carro de la Revolución, .3(1:8.;*-41.)&>;.11&,*8 -*&;.1>.39-*-49*1.3):8 97>!42*4+9-*41)-.8947.( ceramic piece by Sosabravo (see 4 3 8 2 & 1 1 : 3 . 3 - & ' . 9 * ) -49*18-&;*'**37*8947*) p25) Habana Libre hotel, Havana .81&3)8"-*(-*&5*89-49*18 &3)*6:.55*)<.9-.39*73&9.43&189&3 &7*89.11)*(.)*)1>85&79&3&3)7&7*1> )&7)84+(42+479&3)3*<.3+7&897:(9:7* 2**9.39*73&9.43&189&3)&7)8!.3(* -&8'**3(7*&9*)4+9*39-74:,-/4.39 :'&38-&;*'**3&114<*)941*9 ;*39:7*8.3;41;.3,9-*:'&3.3.897> 4:974428.39-*.74<3-42*847*;*3 4+"4:7.82&3)+47*.,3(425&3.*8 *39.7*&5&792*398&3.3(7*&8.3,1> "4)&>;.8.9478(&3(-448*+742&;&7.*9> 545:1&7&77&3,*2*39<.9-94:7.898

Airy hotel interior in Havana

HOTEL CHAINS 489;.8.947894:'&(42* 435&(0&,*-41.)&>8&3)& 3:2'*74+-49*1(-&.38(&9*7 +479-.89>5*4+94:7.8211 -49*18&7*89&9*4<3*) &19-4:,-842*&7*2&3&,*) '>/4.39;*39:7*&,*3(.*8 3*:52&70*9(-&.3.89-* :'&3 Gran Caribe<-48* -49*18.3(1:)*9-*-.8947.( 49*1 &(.43&1.3&;&3& &3&7(-.9*(9:7&1,*2 ':.19.3 9-*49*11&?& &3)9-*49*13,1&9*77& .3&;&3&8&76:* *397&1&3)9-**1*,&39&8& 7&3)&.3!&39.&,47&3 &7.'*&1842&3&,*88*;*7&1 247*24)*73-49*188:(-&8 9-*&'&3& .;.*7&.3&;&3& &3)9-*49*1&,:&.3 .*3+:*,48&3)<*11 *6:.55*)7*8.)*3(*8.3 8*&8.)*7*847988:(-&89-* 49*139*73&(.43&1.3 #&7&)*74&3)9-*49*1 *1B(&34&9&>4&7,4

.,-89&3)&7)8&7*&184 ,:&7&39**)'>9-*Cubanacán &3) Sol Meliá(-&.38'49-4+ <-.(--&;*':.19-49*18 9-74:,-4:9:'&:'&3&(@3 2&3&,*8,44)-49*184+.98 4<3&3)49-*78&++.1.&9*) 94.39*73&9.43&1(-&.38

The foyer in the Hotel Meliá Cohiba, Varadero, seen from the glass lift

Interior of the historic Floridita bar-restaurant in Havana

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The terrace at the Casa Granda hotel in the heart of Santiago de Cuba

$-&9*;*79-*89&77&9.3,4+& -49*157.(*8<.11'*-.,-*7.3 5*&08*&843<-.(-7:38+742 -7.892&894 57.1&3) +7429-*'*,.33.3,4+:1> 949-**3)4+:,:89 BOOKING

The Meliá Cohiba in Havana, a five-star luxury hotel

PRICES 49*17&9*8.39-*(&5.9&1&3) .39-*247*+&24:88*&8.)* 7*847988:(-&8&>4&7,4 #&7&)*74&>44(4&3) 1&>&:&7)&1&;&(&&7* -.,-*79-&3.39-*7*894+9-* (4:397>&3)(477*8543)247* 471*8894.39*73&9.43&11*;*18

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The pool and tennis courts at the Hotel Sol Palmeras in Varadero

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Accommodation in the María La Gorda holiday village, particularly popular with divers

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DIRECTORY HOTEL CHAINS Cubanacán Hoteles Calle 23 #156 e/n N y O, Vedado, Havana. Tel (7) 833 4090. Fax (7) 833 4090. www.cubanacan.cu

Gaviota Edificio La Marina, Ave. del Puerto 102, Havana. Tel (7) 866 6777. Fax (7) 866 2780 or (7) 866 1879. www.gaviota-grupo.com

Gran Caribe

Sol Meliá

Calle 7 no. 4210, e/42 y 44, Miramar, Havana. Tel (7) 204 0575. Fax (7) 204 0238. www.grancaribe.cu

Ave. 5 no. 2008, Miramar, Havana. Tel (7) 204 0910. Fax (7) 204 0912. www.solmeliacuba.com

Habaguanex Calle Oficios 110, e/ Lamparilla y Amargura, Havana. Tel and Fax (7) 8609 761. www.habaguanex.com

Islazul Tel (7) 8325 152 or (7) 8320 571. Fax (7) 333 458 www.islazul. cu

SPECIALIST TOURISM Dance Holidays Tel (01206) 577 000 (UK). Fax (01206) 570 057 (UK). www.danceholidays.com

CAMPING Cubamar Viajes Calle 3e/ 12y Malécon, Vedado, Havana. Tel (7) 833 2524 or (7) 832 1116. Fax (7) 833 3111. www.cubamarviajes.cu

Servimed – Cubanacán Turismo y Salud Ave. 43 no. 1418, esq.18, Miramar, Havana. Tel (7) 204 4811. Fax (7) 204 1630.

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PRICE CATEGORIES (IN CUBAN CONVERTIBLE PESOS – CUC$) Standard double room per night, with breakfast and all taxes included. Under 50 CUC$ 50–100 CUC$ 100–150 CUC$ 150–200 CUC$ Over 200 CUC$

HAVANA HABANA VIEJA Casa de Amalia

Prado 20, 7mo piso, e/ San Lázaro y Cárcel Tel (7) 861 7824 Rooms 2

Map 4 D1

There are fantastic views out over the ocean and across to the lighthouse and fortress complex on the eastern side of the bay from this seventh-floor flat. One of the guest rooms is very small, and the furnishings are quite basic, but the hosts are attentive.

HABANA VIEJA Casa de Humberto Acosta

Compostela 611, 2do piso, e/ Sol y Luz Tel (7) 860 3264 Rooms 2

Map 4 E3

The Casa de Humberto Acosta’s large first-floor terrace is the highlight here, but the common rooms of the whole house are a delight, with bags of colonial character. Conversely, the guest rooms are rather basic. [email protected]

HABANA VIEJA Casa de Sergio y Miriam Luz no.109, apto 5, e/ Inquisidor y San Ignacio Tel (7) 860 8192 Rooms 2

Map 4 F3

This is deep in southern Habana Vieja and provides an authentic taste of old town life away from the tour groups. Both rooms here have two single beds (one with en suite bathroom), and both are a bit cramped but very clean. Breakfast is charged at 4 CUC$ per person. [email protected]

HABANA VIEJA Chez Nous

Brasil (Teniente Rey) 115 esq. Cuba Tel (7) 862 6287 Rooms 2

Map 4 E3

An exceptional casa particular and one of the most distinctly furnished in the city. There’s genuine original colonialera furniture all over the high-ceilinged house and an extraordinary Romanesque bathroom. One of the rooms is on the roof, accessed via a spiral staircase and, in contrast to the rest of the house, is very modern. Lots of comfort.

HABANA VIEJA Hostal Mesón de la Flota

Mercaderes 257 e/ Amargura y Brasil (Teniente Rey) Tel (7) 863 3838 Fax (7) 862 9281 Rooms 5

Map 4 E2

The least expensive hotel in Habana Vieja and one of the most rustic with a distinct tavern character and a vague Spanish theme. Don’t expect any early nights here as the tapas restaurant has nightly flamenco performances with amplified music. www.habaguanex.com

HABANA VIEJA Hostal Valencia

Oficios 53 esq. Obrapía Tel (7) 867 1037 Fax (7) 860 5628 Rooms 14

Map 4 E2

Rural chic and rustic charm characterize this down-to-earth hostel. There’s an excellent paella restaurant whose tables spill out from its intimate interior onto the central patio, rich in potted plants. All rooms are located up the wide staircase on the first floor and are very comfortable. www.habaguanex.com

HABANA VIEJA Hotel Park View

Colón 101 esq. Morro Tel (7) 861 3293 Fax (7) 863 6036 Rooms 55

Map 4 D2

The most modern of Habana Vieja’s recently renovated hotels, with a character distinct from all the others. The lobby area with its small bar is smart and shiny but also down-to-earth with comfy cushioned armchairs. There are great views from the seventh-floor restaurant and rooms are homely with curtains and small TVs. www.habaguanex.com

HABANA VIEJA Hostal del Tejadillo

Tejadillo 12 esq. San Ignacio Tel (7) 863 7283 Fax (7) 863 8830 Rooms 32

Map 4 E2

An intimate, refined hotel but the least distinct of the colonial conversions in Habana Vieja. The restaurant is very small, though it spills onto a tiny, walled-in patio. Rooms are of the same high standard as all the hostels, and some are gathered around a second patio brimming with potted plants. www.habaguanex.com

HABANA VIEJA Hostal Los Frailes

Brasil (Teniente Rey), e/ Oficios y Mercaderes Tel (7) 862 9383 Fax (7) 862 9718 Rooms 22

Map 4 F3

Something of a novelty hotel, the staff in this moody little place all dress as monks. This seems to have engendered an appropriately subdued vibe. The communal areas, such as the lobby lounge with its low wood-raftered ceiling and the intimate patio with a quietly flowing fountain, are deliberately dark and shady. www.habaguanex.com Key to Symbols see back cover flap

HABANA VIEJA Hotel Armadores de Santander Luz esq. San Pedro Tel (7) 862 8000 Fax (7) 862 8080 Rooms 32

Map 4 F3

This is the only Habana Vieja hotel right on the harbour with views out across it from the first-floor restaurant. With little else of note in the immediate vicinity it feels a touch isolated, but this is a good thing for those looking to avoid the hustle and bustle surrounding most hotels in this neighbourhood. There is also a pool table. www.habaguanex.com

HABANA VIEJA Hotel Florida Obispo esq. Cuba Tel (7) 862 4127 Fax (7) 862 4117 Rooms 25

Map 4 E2

A magnificent colonial conversion with an enchanting central patio surrounded by Neo-Classical stone arches and pillars. The guest rooms are excellent – very large and sumptuously furnished in a colonial style with wrought-iron beds. The hotel is located on Habana Vieja’s busiest street, but once inside you barely feel it. www.habaguanex.com

HABANA VIEJA Hotel San Miguel Cuba 52 esq. Peña Pobre Tel (7) 862 7656 Fax (7) 863 4088 Rooms 10

Map 4 E1

Set on a wide avenue with traffic passing by (as opposed to the narrow, historic streets characteristic of most of the old town’s hotels), there are great views from the rooftop bar of the fortifications across the bay. San Miguel is also one of the few hotels in this area with a solarium. The guest rooms are large and comfy. www.habaguanex.com

HABANA VIEJA Hotel Ambos Mundos Obispo esq. Mercaderes Tel (7) 860 9530 Fax (7) 860 9532 Rooms 52

Map 4 E2

Hotel Ambos Mundos is famous for counting Ernest Hemingway among its guests. His room, still much as he left it, is now a tourist attraction. The spacious lobby and its refined bar is a classic Habana Vieja hangout, as is the lovely rooftop-garden restaurant and bar. The original cage-elevator is a great touch. www.habaguanex.com

HABANA VIEJA Hotel Palacio O’Farrill Cuba 102-108 esq. Chacón Tel (7) 860 5080 Fax (7) 860 5083 Rooms 38

Map 4 E2

Another impressive colonial restoration, this stylish hotel is located on a street in a residential neighbourhood. Though just a couple of blocks from the cathedral and close to the most touristy sections of the city, it feels strangely removed from them. The highlight here is the jazz-club bar, where live music is performed at weekends. www.habaguanex.com

HABANA VIEJA Hotel Raquel Amargura esq. San Ignacio Tel (7) 860 8280 Fax (7) 860 8275 Rooms 25

Map 4 E2

The superbly stylish lobby with its ornate ceiling, marble pillars and stained-glass skylight roof, is a great place to sit and read, drink and generally relax. Cordoned off in one corner is the city’s only Jewish-themed restaurant. The rooms upstairs, gathered around a set of interior balcony corridors, are really top-notch. www.habaguanex.com

HABANA VIEJA Hotel Santa Isabel Baratillo 9 e/ Obispo y Narcisco López Tel (7) 860 8201 Fax (7) 860 8391 Rooms 27

Map 4 F2

At the foot of the Plaza de Armas, this refined colonial building is larger than most hotels in Habana Vieja. It is a shrine to “high art”, with Neo-Classical furniture and evocative paintings all around. The guest rooms really stand out, their furnishings beautifully and authentically in keeping with this historic building. www.hotelsantaisabelcuba.com

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Casa de Miriam y Sinaí Neptuno 521, e/ Campanario y Lealtad Tel (7) 878 4456 Rooms 2

Map 3 C2

A fabulous first-floor flat with a surprisingly large central patio full of rocking chairs. The two spacious rooms, one with streetside balcony, are spotlessly clean and have top-drawer en suite bathrooms. The hosts are extremely friendly and Sinaí speaks English, German and Italian. [email protected]

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Casa de Ricardo Morales Campanario 363, apto 3, e/ San Miguel y San Rafael Tel (7) 866 8363 Rooms 2

Map 3 C3

A great option for those who want complete independence, since the owner is often out working and allows guests the run of this entire first-floor flat. Tastefully furnished, neat and compact, the living room is particularly fetching, with a little dining table, a large comfy sofa and artwork from Mexico. There’s also a balcony. [email protected]

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Hotel Lincoln

Virtudes 164 esq. Avenida de Italia (Galiano) Tel (7) 862 8061 Rooms 134

Map 3 C2

The cheapest hotel in Centro Habana, on the edge of one of the most residential and untouristy of the borough’s neighbourhoods. The building itself dates from 1926 but the decor inside is pure 1970s kitsch, with flowered curtains and garish three-piece suites in the lobby. Certainly not lacking in character. www.islazul.cu

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Hotel Caribbean

Prado 164, e/ Colón y Refugio Tel (7) 860 8233, 860 8210 Fax (7) 860 9479 Rooms 35

Map 4 D2

A small hotel on the promenade section of the Prado, but with more of a backstreet flavour. Rooms are half the price of what you’d pay up the road on the Parque Central. Ask for a room facing the street as the others are quite dingy. Internet access available. www.islazul.cu

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Hotetur Deauville

Avenida de Italia (Galiano) esq. Malecón Tel (7) 866 8812 Fax (7) 866 8148 Rooms 144

Map 3 C2

A plain, unexceptional high-rise hotel but the only one in Centro Habana located on the Malecon, a fact which enhances its appeal considerably, as does the small second-floor swimming pool. There’s a basement nightclub and a standard issue restaurant. www.hotetur.com

VEDADO Hoteles C Presidente

Calzada 110 esq. Avenida de los Presidentes Tel (7) 551801 to 04 Fax (7) 833 3753 Rooms 158

Map 1 C1

Recently renovated, this classy hotel stands in its own secluded corner of residential Vedado, with a dashing, gentlemanly look and feel. The marble-floored lobby is accented with elegant colonial furniture and antiques, and the pool is flanked by balaustraded terraces. Comfortable rooms, many with ocean views. www.hotelesc.com

VEDADO Habana Libre Tryp

Calle L e/ 23 y 25 Tel (7) 554011, 834 6100 Fax (7) 834 6365, 834 6177 Rooms 572

Map 2 F2

Life in this part of the city revolves around this swish hotel, a Havana landmark known as the Havana Hilton before the Revolution. Its guest rooms are some of the largest in the city, many with unbeatable views. The small pool is on a first-floor terrace, and there are several excellent restaurants, including the rooftop Sierra Maestra. www.hotelhabanalibre.com

VEDADO Hotel Nacional de Cuba

Calle O esq. 21 Tel (7) 836 3564 Fax (7) 836 5054 Rooms 426

Map 2 F1

No other hotel presents regal elegance and grace on such a grand scale as the palatial Nacional, built in the 1930s. Among the highlights are a swanky banquet-hall restaurant divided by arches, two more restaurants in the moody basement, sweeping lawns on low cliffs above the Malecon and a nice garden-terrace bar. www.hotelnacionaldecuba.com

VEDADO Meliá Cohiba

Avenida Paseo e/ 1ra y 3ra Tel (7) 833 3636 Fax (7) 834 4555 Rooms 462

Map 1 B2

Melía Cohiba is a sleek ultra-modern high-rise, a block from the seafront. One of the best equipped hotels in the city, it has five restaurants, nine meeting rooms for business guests, squash courts, a jacuzzi and sauna and one of the ritziest clubs in the city – the Habana Café. A large, two-part pool caps it all off. www.melia-cohiba.com

GREATER HAVANA (KOHLY PLAYA) Hotel Kohly

Calle 49 esq. 36A Tel (7) 204 0240 to 42 Fax (7) 204 1733 Rooms 136 Less attractive but better equipped than its sister hotel, the Hotel El Bosque, this parkside building features a small pool, a tennis court, a diminutive gym and a sauna. The enclosed, terraced pool has a relaxing aura of privacy and you can wander directly into the wooded park from the hotel grounds. Bright rooms. www.gaviota-grupo.com

GREATER HAVANA (KOHLY-PLAYA) Hotel El Bosque

Calle 28A e/ 49A y 49C Tel (7) 204 9232 to 35 Fax (7) 204 5637 Rooms 62 Perched just above the Parque Almendares, Havana’s only archetypal big-city park, this location is pleasantly green and suburban You don’t get the kind of luxury found at many of Miramar’s hotels, but the more down-to-earth, intimate vibe will better suit some tastes. Shares facilities with its neighbour, the Hotel Kohly. www.gaviota-grupo.com

GREATER HAVANA (MARINA HEMINGWAY) Hotel y Villas Marina Hemingway

Residencial ”Marina Hemingway”, Calle 248 y 5ta Tel (7) 204 1150 to 55, 204 7628 Fax (7) 204 4379 Rooms 22 Few places in Cuba feel more like the opposite side of the Florida Straits than this international yachting community and its small hotel district, made up of a variety of houses, villas and a three-storey main building with a huge pool. The restaurant specializes in Italian food. [email protected]

GREATER HAVANA (MIRAMAR) Casa de Mauricio Alonso

Calle A no.312, apto 9, e/ Ave. 3ra y Ave. 5ta Tel (7) 203 7581 Rooms 1 Just over the river from Vedado, this casa particular is much closer to the livelier parts of the city than most accommodations in Miramar. The spacious accommodation, in a penthouse apartment, is well equipped and there are great views both of the city and of the ocean. [email protected]

GREATER HAVANA (MIRAMAR) Residencia Miramar

Avenida 7ma no.4403, e/ 44 y 46 Tel (7) 202 1075 Rooms 2 A delightful casa particular in a classic Miramar residence à la 1950s suburban Miami. Room facilities include phone and fridge, and the whole house is kept spotlessly clean. There’s a lovely patio garden and the hosts are very friendly, with plenty of experience in the room-renting business. www.habanasol.com

GREATER HAVANA (MIRAMAR) Chateau Miramar

1ra y 62, Miramar Tel (7) 204 1951 to 57 Fax (7) 204 0224 Rooms 50 Right on the waterfront, this hotel looks like a cross between a castle and a multi-storey car park. It’s aimed at the business market and this shows in the shiny, well kept but essentially soulless environment here which pervades the rooms as well as the restaurant and bars. www.hotelescubanacan.com

GREATER HAVANA (MIRAMAR) Occidental Miramar

5ta e/72 y 76 Tel (7) 204 3584 Fax (7) 204 8158 Rooms 427 This upmarket hotel looks a bit like a conference centre but has sports and activity facilities unrivalled in the city. Six tennis courts, an indoor squash court, a fitness centre, sauna, jacuzzi and even tennis lessons on offer as well as outdoor and indoor playgrounds for children. Generic but very comfortable rooms. www.occidental-hoteles.com

GREATER HAVANA (MIRAMAR) Meliá Habana

3ra. e/ 76 y 80 Tel (7) 204 8500 Fax (7) 204 3902, 204 3905 Rooms 397 A swish, top-class business hotel in the heart of Miramar’s commercial district with a knockout lobby, a huge curving corridor of polished floors, rising columns and an army of sofa suites. There are 12 meeting rooms and offices for rent, plus 3 pools and 4 restaurants. www.solmeliacuba.com Key to Price Guide see p252 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Hotel Inglaterra

Prado 416 esq. San Rafael, Parque Central Tel (7) 860 8594 to 97 Fax (7) 860 8254 Rooms 83

Map 4 D2

A focal point for this part of Havana, the pavement-porch café of this austere building, founded in 1875, is always alive with chatter. The interior is a model of elegant austerity, particularly in the large restaurant with its columned arches. Rooms vary in size but are all decorated with the restrained refinement. www.hotelinglaterracuba.com

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Hotel Plaza Ignacio Agramonte 267 Tel (7) 860 8583 Fax (7) 860 8592 Rooms 188

Map 4 D2

This grand old hotel near the Parque Central has touches of grandeur, although the communal areas lack character. The main restaurant is a kind of Neo-Classical cafeteria and the lobby is quite elegant but feels like a waiting room. There’s a cheap pizza restaurant. www.gran-caribe.com

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Hotel Telégrafo Prado 408 esq. Neptuno Tel (7) 861 1010 Fax (7) 861 4844 Rooms 63

Map 4 D2

Brought back from the dead at the start of the millenium, having originally opened in 1911, this newest of the Parque Central hotels has combined modern and colonial-style architecture to great effect, particularly in the groundfloor bar with its brick arches and in the top-floor glass ceiling. www.habaguanex.com

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Hotel Saratoga

Prado 603 esq. Dragones Tel (7) 868 1000 Fax (7) 868 1002 Rooms 96

Map 4 D3

Outlandishly posh, with resplendently stylish interiors and jaw-dropping colonial details, this is the classiest hotel in this part of the city. A rooftop pool, restaurant and bar, solarium and gym and rooms with DVD players, internet connection, satellite tv and minibar reflect the levels of comfort all over this amazing hotel. www.hotel-saratoga.com

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Hotel Parque Central

Neptuno, e/ Prado y Zulueta, Parque Central Tel (7) 860 6627 Fax (7) 860 6630 Rooms 278

Map 4 D2

The least historically authentic of the old hotels on the Parque Central, but by far the best equipped and most luxurious. There’s a swimming pool on the roof, a business centre and a gym, and the classy lobby bar is encircled by a balaustraded interior balcony, all bathed in a warm glow from the skylight. www.nh-hotels.cu

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Hotel Sevilla

Trocadero 55, e/ Prado y Zulueta Tel (7) 860 8560 Fax (7) 860 8875 Rooms 178

Map 4 D2

Uniquely for this part of the city, Sevilla has a garden terrace outside the hotel itself, the site of its swimming pool. The majestic building also possesses a spectacular top-floor restaurant serving up some of the fanciest cuisine in Havana. Fitness centre, sauna and solarium. Very comfortable rooms, with mock colonial furniture. www.hotelsevillacuba.com

VEDADO Casa de Melida Jordán

Calle 25 no.1102, e/ 6 y 8 Tel (7) 8335219 Rooms 2

Map 1 C4

Surrounded by a wealth of plant life, this magnificent two-floor house has distinguished black railings on the exterior and a gorgeous interior. Both guest rooms are very comfortable, with good beds. One even has its own separate entrance for complete privacy.

VEDADO Casa de Mercedes González

Calle 21 no.360, apt. 2A, e/ G y H Tel (7) 8325846 Rooms 2

Map 2 E2

On the second floor of a 1950s building, this spacious apartment has two very well-equipped, large rooms with fridge, tv and en suite bathrooms. The house has a library of books for guests to use, and a lovely terrace balcony where you can sit and read. [email protected]

VEDADO Hotel Saint John’s

Calle O e/ 23 y 25 Tel (7) 833 3740, 834 4187 Fax (7) 833 3561 Rooms 86

Map 2 F2

There’s always a buzz, day or night, outside Saint John’s, on one of the busiest corners in the city and sharing the same space as a trendy jazz club. The restaurant has a slight canteen feel about it, though the food isn’t bad. There’s a simple cafeteria bar on the roof with great views along the seafront. www.gran-caribe.com

VEDADO Hotel Vedado

Calle O 244 e/ 23 y 25 Tel (7) 836 4072 Rooms 203

Map 1 C1

Though a somewhat tired-looking tower block in the heart of Vedado, lacking in character, this is more affordable than almost all the other hotels in the district, with a cosy, private pool area. A nice touch is the series of photos of Havana landmarks and architecture spread around the hotel. There’s also a fitness centre. www.gran-caribe.com

VEDADO Hotel Victoria

Calle 19 esq. M Tel (7) 8333510 Fax (7) 833 3109 Rooms 31

Map 1 C1

One of Vedado’s smallest hotels, the charming, unpretentious Hotel Victoria is the area’s best lower-end option. The communal areas are intimate and quite chic, with a handsome and cosy bar, wood-panelled restaurant room and a miniature pool. Rooms are on the small side. Not far from restaurants and nightspots. www.hotelvictoriacuba.com

VEDADO Hotel Riviera

Avenida Paseo e/ Malecón y 1ra Tel (7) 836 4051 Fax (7) 833 3739, 834 4225 Rooms 352

Map 1 B2

A classic from the pre-Revolution years, this upmarket seafront high-rise hotel was once controlled by the US Mafia. There’s a wealthy 1950s-chic look about the place, in the rooms and particularly in the Art Deco lobby. The pool is one of the largest in urban Havana, and the Copa Room Cabaret is one of the city’s most renowned. www.gran-caribe.com

GREATER HAVANA (PLAYAS DEL ESTE) Aparthotel Las Terrazas

Avenida de las Terrazas e/ 10 y Rotonda Tel (7) 971 344 Fax (7) 971 316 Rooms 247 Though there are three restaurants on site, the apartments are sufficiently equipped for self-caterers, with cookers and fridges, and some with three bedrooms. There’s a grocery store but you’ll need to go further afield to buy enough provisions for a proper meal. Large, split-level pool. www.islazul.cu

GREATER HAVANA (PLAYAS DEL ESTE) Mirador del Mar

Calle 11 e/ 1ra y 3ra Tel (7) 971 354 to 55, 971 284 Rooms 79 Spread around a hillside looking down onto the beach, this hotel neighbourhood is made up of houses of varying sizes, some of them bungalows, some with first floor balcony terraces, some sleeping as many as five people. There are two small pools, two restaurants, three bars and a modest nightclub. www.islazul.cu

GREATER HAVANA (PLAYAS DEL ESTE) Villa Mégano

Km 22 1/2, Santa María del Mar, Habana del Este Tel (7) 971 610 Fax (7) 971 624 Rooms 103 Surrounded by a grassy field, this is a modest concrete-cabin complex with little that marks it out from the competition. There’s a rectangular, medium-sized pool, a games room and a daily entertainment programme. Not all the cabins have sea views. www.hotelescubanacan.com

GREATER HAVANA (PLAYAS DEL ESTE) Hotel Club Atlántico

Avenida de las Terrazas 21, Santa María del Mar Tel (7) 971 085, 961 532 Fax (7) 971 263 Rooms 92 An old shell but a newer, renovated interior with upbeat colours make this one of the smarter hotels in the Playas del Este, operating as an all-inclusive resort. There are two tennis courts, an entertainment programme which includes a cabaret, a buffet restaurant and a pizza parlour. [email protected]

GREATER HAVANA (PLAYAS DEL ESTE) Villa Los Pinos

Avenida de las Terrazas 21, Santa Maria del Mar Tel (7) 971 361 Fax (7) 971 263 Rooms 70 Here you will find roomy two- and three-bedroom houses, some with their own pool and all with their own kitchen (including microwave ovens and all the usual mod cons) while one house even has its own squash court. This is the most upmarket accommodation in this area, and is located on a good section of beach. www.villalospinos.com

GREATER HAVANA (SIBONEY, PLAYA) CIS La Pradera

230 e/ 15A y 17 Tel (7) 273 7467 to 84 Fax (7) 273 7202 Rooms 164 Set in the leafy outskirts of the city, the Centro Internacional de Salud de “la Pradera” is as much a health centre as a hotel. From obesity and stress to MS, there is a huge variety of treatments on offer, with 17 rooms designed for guests with disabilities. A games room, gym, sauna and beauty salon are among the facilities. www.cuba.cu/PRADERA

GREATER HAVANA (MIRAMAR) Comodoro

3ra y 84, Miramar Tel (7) 204 5551 Fax (7) 204 0319 Rooms 132 (plus 322 bungalows) Featuring Havana’s largest shopping mall and a series of pastel two-storey apartment buildings, this hotel has the feel of a wealthy suburb. The grounds extend down to a tiny artificial beach on the otherwise rocky shoreline, with various water sports facilities. The all-inclusive package includes daily bus service to the city centre. www.hotelescubanacan.com

WESTERN CUBA CAYO LARGO DEL SUR Villa Marinera Cayo Largo del Sur

Marina Cayo Largo del Sur, Isla de la Juventud Tel (45) 248 384 Fax (45) 248 212 Rooms 11 An attractive wood-cabin complex on a great patch of beach. The roomy cabins have porches and a natural feel inside with wood-panelled walls and subtle furnishings. They all face the sea, just a few metres from the shore. The small pool, simple restaurant and marina all enhance this lovely little complex, which is in tune with its surroundings.

CAYO LARGO DEL SUR Barcelo Cayo Largo

Cayo Largo del Sur, Archipiélago de los Canarreos, Isla de la Juventud Tel (45) 248 080 Fax (45) 248 088 Rooms 306 The majestic lobby is vaguely reminiscent of Tony Montana’s mansion lobby in the film Scarface, with staircases on either side leading up to indoor balconies. From here a walkway lined with palms leads to one of the two pools. Dotted around are paintings and sculptures by local artists. Rooms are gracefully decorated. www.barcelo.com

CAYO LARGO DEL SUR Hotel Isla del Sur

Cayo Largo del Sur, Archipiélago de los Canarreos, Isla de la Juventud Tel (45) 248 111 Fax (45) 248 201 Rooms 59 This is the reception building for four neighbouring complexes – Isla del Sur, Villa Coral, Villa Soledad and Villa Lindamar – that share the same contact and booking details. Facilities at all hotels are open to guests, and include tennis courts, swimming pools, and fitness facilities. www.cayolargodelsur.cu

CAYO LARGO DEL SUR Villa Coral

Cayo Largo del Sur, Archipiélago de los Canarreos, Isla de la Juventud Tel (45) 248 111 Fax (45) 248 201 Rooms 60 Part of the Isla del Sur complex (see above), this slightly rag-tag collection of garish pink blocks with minimal landscaping doesn’t really form a cohesive single complex, but the pool area provides a focus and is pleasantly encircled by low trees. The round pool is small but has a swim-up bar. www.cayolargodelsur.cu Key to Price Guide see p252 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

CAYO LARGO DEL SUR Villa Soledad

Cayo Largo del Sur, Archipiélago de los Canarreos, Isla de la Juventud Tel (45) 248 111 Fax (45) 248 201 Rooms 24 With no pool or restaurant it’s just as well that guests here have access to the facilities of all the other Isla del Sur member hotels (see Hotel Isla del Sur) . The rooms, in brightly coloured bungalows and semi-detached houses, have tv and mini-bar and each has its own porch or balcony. A good place for undisturbed tranquility. www.cayolargodelsur.cu

CAYO LARGO DEL SUR Hotel Sol Cayo Largo

Cayo Largo del Sur, Archipiélago de los Canarreos, Isla de la Juventud Tel (45) 248 260 Fax (45) 248 265 Rooms 296 On a great stretch of beach and featuring a magnificent swimming pool, a well equipped fitness centre, a beachfront restaurant and two other indoor restaurants. This hotel specializes in weddings and honeymoons, with lovely romantic spaces like the gazebo overlooking the beach and the raised, poolside arbours. www.sol-cayolargo.com

CAYO LARGO DEL SUR Hotel Sol Pelícano

Cayo Largo del Sur, Archipiélago de los Canarreos, Isla de la Juventud Tel (45) 248 333 Fax (45) 248 265 Rooms 304 Looking a bit like a Wild West village outpost (but painted pastel blue), this unusual luxury resort has slightly haggard, sandy grounds and two- and three-storey concrete ranch-house buildings. There’s a ranchon beach eatery, an intimate gourmet restaurant and a large buffet restaurant. The large pool has a fountain in the centre. www.sol-pelicano.com

CAYO LEVISA Hotel Cayo Levisa

Carretera a Palma Rubia, La Palma, Pinar del Rio Tel (48) 756 501 to 03 Fax (48) 756 506 Rooms 33 Hidden from the mainland behind the thick scrub that covers the low island (cay) on which it nestles, this offshore cabin retreat can’t be beaten for peace and tranquility. The spacious brick, thatched-roof cabins line the beach. Watersports provide the only entertainment, with excursions to even more remote cays. www.hotelescubanacan.com

ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD Hotel Rancho del Tesoro

Carretera La Fe Km 2 1/2 Tel (46) 323 035 Rooms 34 This is a very basic countryside hotel consisting of a box building with a three-storey turret tower and a simple restaurant and bar. It is an unfussy, restful place to stay but don’t expect to be pampered here. Guest rooms have satellite tv and mini-bar. [email protected]

ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD Villa Isla de la Juventud

Carretera La Fé Km 1 1/2 Tel (46) 323 290 Rooms 20 In a pleasant natural setting with a hilly backdrop, just outside Nueva Gerona, this place is popular with locals who come from the town at weekends to use the medium-sized pool. Rooms, with tv, radio and mini-bar, have a 1970s kitsch look about them and are all gathered around the pool. [email protected]

ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD Villa Marisol

Calle 24 no.5107, e/ 51 y 53, Nueva Gerona Tel (46) 322 502 Rooms 2 A few blocks from the centre of town on a leafy street with a hillside backdrop is this well-maintained casa particular. Both rooms have small double beds and a simple, airy uncluttered feel. The shady terrace with its table and chairs is a nice spot for relaxation, and the house as a whole has a laid-back, homely ambience.

ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD Villa Mas

Calle 41 no.4108, apto. 7, e/ 8 y 10, Nueva Gerona Tel (46) 323 544 Rooms 1 This casa particular in a dusty apartment complex away from the centre may not look like much from the outside but the accommodation here is sprucely decorated and well equipped, featuring tv and fridge. There’s a homemade bar on the inviting rooftop terrace.

ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD Hotel Colony

Carretera Sigüanea Km 42 Tel (46) 398 282 Fax (46) 398 420 Rooms 24 The closest hotel to the beach on the Punta Francés peninsula, this modest coastal resort is aimed predominantly at scuba divers (dive packages can be arranged from here). There are rooms in the original, rather plain 1950s building and slightly better ones in the bungalows. The highlight is the bar and grill at the end of a long pier. [email protected]

LAS TERRAZAS Hotel La Moka

Las Terrazas, Autopista Nacional Habana-Pinar del Río Km 51, Candelaria Tel (48) 578 600 Fax (48) 578 605 Rooms 31 Few hotels in Cuba are as harmonious with their environment as this superb hillside sanctum. Shrouded in woodland, the graceful main building, with its outdoor corridors, has a lobby built around a large tree that rises through the roof. Paths and staircases wind through the trees to the village below. Comfortable rooms. [email protected]

PENÍNSULA DE GUANAHACABIBES Hotel María La Gorda

María La Gorda, Península de Guanahacabibes, Pinar del Río Tel (48) 778 131 Fax (48) 778 077 Rooms 55 A real end-of-the-line beach resort, this is Cuba’s most isolated mainland hotel. Rooms are in comfortable wood cabins on the edge of a forest thicket or in concrete villas on the beach. There’s an excellent dive club for the world-class scuba diving here. Buffet breakfast and dinner are included. The whole resort is cash only. www.gaviota-grupo.com

PINAR DEL RÍO CITY Casa de Maribel Pérez Madera

Isabel Rubio 4 (bajos), e/ Martí y Adela Azcuy Tel (48) 753 217 Rooms 1 Located right in the heart of Pinar del Río City is this freshly furnished, pocket-size ground-floor flat with one guest room. It is clean, cosy and comfortable, with a homely atmosphere. Although basic and small, the flat has a snug rather than cramped feel to it.

PINAR DEL RÍO CITY Hotel Pinar del Río

Martí y Final Tel (48) 755 070 to 74 Fax (48) 771 699 Rooms 149 Though much better equipped than the city’s other hotel, this unattractive building is past its prime. Guest rooms are small, and the furnishings are old-fashioned. It does, however, possess the only pool in Pinar del Río and the best nightclub in the city. www.islazul.cu

PINAR DEL RÍO CITY Hotel Vueltabajo

Martí 103, esq. Rafael Morales Tel (48) 759 381 to 83 Rooms 39 Right in the centre of town, on the bustling main street, this recently renovated small-scale hotel is in a handsome balconied two-storey building fronted by simple high arches. The lobby, bar and rooms are all smart, small and refined but the restaurant lacks character and its food is unremarkable. www.islazul.cu

SAN DIEGO DE LOS BAÑOS Hotel Mirador

Calle 23 y Final, San Diego de los Baños, Los Palacios Tel/Fax (48) 778 338 Rooms 30 Tucked away in the corner of tiny San Diego de los Baños village, just over a river from dense woodlands, is this picturesque two-storey hotel with canopied corridor balconies. It has well-tended terrace gardens with a pretty little pool, complete with its own mini-bridge. The hotel offers health programmes at the spa across the road. www.islazul.cu

SOROA Villa Soroa

Carretera de Soroa Km 8, San Cristóbal Tel (48) 523 534, 523 556, 523 512 Rooms 49 Surrounded by looming hills in its own compact valley, this villa complex has a wonderful natural setting. With modest facilities but a large pool, it is a real chillout spot and popular with package tourists. There’s a hilltop restaurant nearby. The reasonably comfortable villas surround the pool. www.cubanacan.cu

VIÑALES Villa El Isleño

Carretera a Viñales Km 26 Tel (48) 793 107 Rooms 2 The first house in the village on the road from Pinar del Río, this very well-kept casa particular has a backyard with great views of the Mogote hills. With tv and fridge and sparkling new bathrooms, these are among the most comfortable guest rooms in Viñales, especially the one in its own block out the back.

VIÑALES La Ermita

Carretera La Ermita Km 1.5 Tel (48) 796 071, 796 100, 796 122 Fax (48) 796 069 Rooms 62 Up a small hill from the village, this neat and tidy cabin complex is the most relaxing place to stay in Viñales. The panoramic views of the valley can be enjoyed equally from the balcony restaurant, the pool, the well-trimmed lawns or the rooms themselves – in villas or in the graceful two-storey buildings with red-tile roofs. www.hotelescubanacan.com

VIÑALES Los Jazmines

Carretera a Viñales Km 23 Tel (48) 796 205, 796 123, 796 124 Fax (48) 796 215 Rooms 78 Most photos of Viñales are taken from the lookout platform of this magnificently situated hotel. The main building is a splendid 1950s pink neo-colonial provincial mansion, where the average-quality restaurant is housed, and there are modern blocks housing the most comfortable rooms. www.hotelescubanacan.com

VIÑALES Rancho San Vicente

Carretera Puerto Esperanza Km 33 Tel (48) 796 201, 796 221, 796 222, 796 111 Fax (48) 796 265 Rooms 54 Down in the valley, set on wooded, grassy slopes leading down to the quiet road, this wood-cabin refuge is a wellpriced option. The delightful cabins, in their natural setting, have porches and glass-panelled front walls. There’s also a pretty pool and an arched restaurant building. www.hotelescubanacan.com

CENTRAL CUBA – WEST

CAIBARIÉN Brisas del Mar

Carretera Playa final, Caibarién Tel (42) 351 699 Rooms 12 Brisas del Mar is a good budget alternative to the resorts on the nearby cays, and well placed for day trips. Right at the end of town on a secluded little jut of land, this low-key hotel has rooms facing out to sea and its own small patch of beach. Guest rooms are kept in good condition with the standard modern conveniences. www.islazul.cu

CAYO ENSENACHOS Royal Hideaway Ensenachos

Cayo Ensenachos, Villa Clara Tel (42) 350 300 Fax (42) 350 301 to 03 Rooms 506 This enormous resort is awesomely well equipped and its setting jaw-droppingly gorgeous. Split into three sections, the Royal Suite area features garden villas on their own peninsula at the far end of the hotel’s two private beaches. State-ofthe-art spa, four restaurants, six bars and CD/DVD players in all rooms. www.royalhideawayensenachos.com

CAYO LAS BRUJAS Villa Las Brujas

Cayo Las Brujas, Villa Clara Tel (42) 350 199 Rooms 24 The least expensive place to stay on Villa Clara’s north coast cays is hidden away at the end of a road cutting through the island scrub. The comfortable cabin accommodation faces the sea, and there’s a simple rustic restaurant next to the beach in a circular wooden building where a spiral staircase leads to a viewing platform. www.gaviota-grupo.com Key to Price Guide see p252 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

CAYO SANTA MARÍA Meliá Cayo Santa María

Cayo Santa María, Villa Clara Tel (42) 350 500 Fax (42) 350 505 Rooms 358 Beautifully built into and around the cay’s dense vegetation, this high-class resort counts three swimming pools, an amphitheatre, and Mediterranean, Italian and buffet restaurants among its extensive facilities. Guest rooms are exquisitely furnished and quite homely, with balconies or terraces. www.solmeliacuba.com

CAYO SANTA MARÍA Sol Cayo Santa María

Cayo Santa María, Villa Clara Tel (42) 350 200 Fax (42) 350 205 Rooms 300 Of the three all-inclusive resorts on the cays, this is the smallest yet still boasts two tennis courts, a gym, three bars and three restaurants. Standard double rooms in one- and two-storey villas are brightly furnished with ceiling fans, satellite tv, mini-bar, hair dryer and breakfast table and chairs. www.solmeliacuba.com

CIENFUEGOS Casa de la Amistad

Avenida 56 no.2927, e/ 29 y 31 Tel (43) 516 143 Rooms 2 Run by an old couple whose set of guestbooks attest to both their friendliness and the popularity of this eclectic old house near the centre. A spiral staircase to the roof, a little bar installed in the entrance hall, stained-glass windows and period furnishings makes this place a fascinating and enjoyable place to stay. [email protected]

CIENFUEGOS Casa de Luis y Odalys

Avenida 16 no.4702, e/ 47 y 49 Tel (43) 515 864 Rooms 2 A couple of blocks from the baseball stadium in the laid-back, open-plan district of Punta Gorda, there’s a shady bijou backyard patio with tables and chairs just outside the dining room with its mounted deer head. The guest rooms are large, with attractive built-in closets and en suite bathrooms. [email protected]

CIENFUEGOS Casa Piñeiro

Calle 41 no.1402, e/ 14 y 16, Punta Gorda Tel (43) 513 808 Rooms 2 An enthusiastic cook and an astute host, Jorge Piñeiro runs one of the best-known casas particulares in the city and is a great source of information for visitors. The house has a spacious outside eating area with a banquet-length picnic table and a built-in brick barbecue. Rooms are large and come equipped with tvs. www.casapineiro.com

CIENFUEGOS Palacio Azul

Calle 37 e/ 12 y 14, Punta Gorda Tel (43) 555 828 Rooms 7 Standing proudly on its own modest patch of bayside real estate, this pastel blue 1921 mansion has a down-to-earth atmosphere and is a great place to stay if you’re looking for character. The guest rooms are well equipped and very spacious, some with bay views. The restaurant is only open for breakfast. www.hotelescubanacan.com

CIENFUEGOS Club Amigo Rancho Luna

Carretera Rancho Luna Km 15 Tel (43) 548 012, 548 020, 548 026 Fax (43) 548131 Rooms 222 Hogging the only decent section of beach on this stretch of coastline, this patchy resort has a huge rectangular pool and a family atmosphere. Scuba diving lessons are offered, as are various other watersports. The long buildings accommodating guest rooms have a weathered look; about half of them have sea views. www.hotelescubanacan.com

CIENFUEGOS Hotel Faro Luna

Carretera de Pasacaballo Km 18 Tel (43) 548 030 Fax (43) 548 062 Rooms 46 A cosy little complex with a small main building and pool, and an attractive set of cabins lined up above and along the rocky shore. This is a good place for divers, with an excellent dive-club on site as well as a dolphinarium, located in a natural pool, a short walk away. Rooms are comfortable but nothing special. www.hotelescubanacan.com

CIENFUEGOS Hotel Unión

Calle 31, esq. 54 Tel (43) 551 020 Fax (43) 551 685 Rooms 49 This 19th-century building has been wonderfully restored to its former Neo-Classical glory and is now the best hotel in Cienfuegos. Luxury and style combine comfortably, so that the sleek glass elevator and the pool, which is intimately enclosed within the hotel walls, blend in with the Old World decor and ambience. www.hotelescubanacan.com

CIENFUEGOS Hotel Jagua

Calle 37, e/ 0 y 2, Punta Gorda Tel (43) 551 003 Fax (43) 551 245 Rooms 149 With the most attractive setting in town, at the tip of the peninsula reaching out into the bay waters, is this unremarkable block building containing a well-appointed four-star hotel. The interior is easier on the eye, with a light and airy lobby, and a pool area looking out over the bay. www.gran-caribe.com

LAGO HANABANILLA Hotel Hanabanilla

Salto del Hanabanilla, Manicaragua, Villa Clara Tel (42) 208 550, 208 461 Fax (42) 203 506 Rooms 125 A hulk of a main building in a glorious natural setting in lush green hills and by the side of a large, twisting lake, this hotel attracts a large number of fishing enthusiasts. It is well set up for making the most of what the lake has to offer, with daily boat trips and water sports facilities. Rooms are basic and the rate does not include breakfast. www.islazul.cu

PENÍNSULA DE ZAPATA Hotel Playa Girón

Playa Girón, Península de Zapata, Matanzas Tel (45) 984 110 Fax (45) 984 117 Rooms 282 The peninsula’s largest resort is spread around a grassy patch of land. Guest rooms are housed in simple concrete bungalows, some quite large, and are comfortable and reasonably well equipped. The beach here is somewhat spoiled by a concrete wave-breaker, which obscures the view out to sea. www.hotelescubanacan.com

PENÍNSULA DE ZAPATA, MATANZAS Batey Don Pedro

Península de Zapata, Matanzas Tel (45) 912 825, 913 224 Rooms 12 This rustic set of wooden lodges offers excellent value – the most affordable on the peninsula, though the coast is a 20-minute drive away. The farmland setting is a bit rough and ready, but the lodges are spacious, comfortable and have satellite tv, mini-bar, ceiling fans, porches and rocking chairs. Great place to relax. www.hotelescubanacan.com

PENÍNSULA DE ZAPATA. MATANZAS Guamá

Laguna del Tesoro, Península de Zapata, Matanzas Tel (45) 915 551 Rooms 44 Wonderfully isolated out on the huge Laguna del Tesoro lake on a series of interconnected little islands, this minicomplex is modelled on a pre-Columbian Taino settlement. Guest rooms are housed in round, wooden lodges hovering over the lake on stilts. www.hotelescubanacan.com

PENÍNSULA DE ZAPATA MATANZAS Hotel Playa Larga

Playa Larga, Península de Zapata, Matanzas Tel (45) 987 294 Fax (45) 987 294 Rooms 60 At the foot of the bay and at the edge of the nature reserve, this is the best located hotel on the peninsula for those wanting to combine scuba diving, bird watching and nature trailing. Accommodation is in bungalows facing the sea on somewhat tired-looking landscaped grounds. www.hotelescubanacan.com

REMEDIOS Hotel Mascotte

Máximo Gómez 114, e/ P Margal y A del Rio, Plaza Martí Tel (42) 395 144 Fax (42) 395 327 Rooms 10 A plain yet refined and tastefully refurbished colonial period building, the town’s only hotel is the focal point for most visitors whether or not they’re staying here. Hotel Mascotte is a lovely, uncomplicated and comfortable place to stay for a few days. Rooms have satellite tv and mini-bar. www.hotelescubanacan.com

SANTA CLARA Casa de Consuelo Ramos Rodríguez

Independencia 265, apto 1, e/ Pedro Estevez (Unión) y San Isidro Tel (42) 202 064 Rooms 2 This ground-floor flat looks small and ordinary from the outside, so the wide corridors and large double rooms come as quite a surprise. The sizeable patio in the back garden is embellished with trees, shrubs and a green canopy shading the benches. There’s a piano in the dining room, which is flanked by two more tiny patios. [email protected]

SANTA CLARA Casa de Martha Artiles Alemán

Martha Abreu 56 (altos), e/ Villuendas y Zayas Tel (42) 205 008 Rooms 3 A large first-floor flat with a half-colonial, half-modern look and feel. There are two three-piece suites in the cavernous, pristinely furnished living room with its streetside balcony. A huge roof terrace with table and chairs provides sweeping views of Santa Clara. Impressive rooms, one with leather couch, tv and video. [email protected]

SANTA CLARA Casa Mercy

Eduardo Machado (San Cristóbal) 4, e/ Cuba y Colón Tel (42) 216 941 Rooms 2 Just one block from the central square, there’s an unpretentious family vibe at this well-run house. Both rooms are located upstairs, with their own terrace area overlooking the tiny central patio. Rooms have well-stocked mini-bars, and one has a small balcony. Mercy is a fantastic cook and does everything with a smile. [email protected]

SANTA CLARA Florida Center

Maestra Nicolasa (Candelaria) 56, e/ Colon y Maceo Tel (42) 208 161 Rooms 2 This stunning house has an almost overwhelming number of notable features. The spellbinding central patio is a jungle of potted plants, palms and bushes; the bedrooms are an original mix of Colonial-era and Art Deco furniture with modern, spotless bathrooms; and the front room is crammed full of Colonial furniture and pictures. A unique option.

SANTA CLARA Santa Clara Libre

Parque Leoncio Vidal 6, e/ Tristá y Padre Chao Tel (42) 207 548 Fax (42) 202 771 Rooms 143 An undistinguished high-rise hotel in a great location, right on the lively Parque Leoncio. Most rooms are small, but many have fantastic panoramic views of the city. There’s a roof-top bar and nightclub, but the other communal areas are unremarkable. This is the best budget option if you don’t want to stay in a casa particular. www.islazul.cu

SANTA CLARA Hotel Los Caneyes

Avenida los Eucaliptos y Circunvalación Tel (42) 204 512, 218 140 Fax (42) 218 140, 204 512 Rooms 96 Just beyond the southern outskirts of the city, a three-peso can ride from the centre, this hotel nestles in its own woodlands and feels isolated and tranquil, though the peace is occasionally disturbed by the hotel’s entertainment programme. Good buffet restaurant in a reconstructed traditional Taino circular lodge. www.hotelescubanacan.com

SANTA CLARA Villa La Granjita

Carretera de Malezas Km 2.5 Tel (42) 218 190 Fax (42) 218 149 Rooms 80 A large ranch in the middle of farmland beyond the city limits, this wooden cabin complex has an organic feel, the extensive grounds only partly landscaped, with a lot of it left in a natural state. The unusual accommodation units are multi-sided, two-storey, matted-roof huts with satellite tv, minibar and balcony or terrace. www.hotelescubanacan.com

VARADERO Villa La Mar

Avenida 3ra, e/ 28 y 30 Tel (45) 614 515 Fax (45) 612 508 Rooms 264 This is the least expensive but certainly not the worst hotel in Varadero. Though it’s firmly rooted in the old school of Cuban beach architecture, it has more soul than some of the alternatives elsewhere, thanks in part to its large gardens. There is also a games room, two restaurants and a discoteque. www.islazul.cu Key to Price Guide see p252 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

VARADERO Hotel Acuazul

Avenida 1ra y 13 Tel (45) 667 132 Fax (45) 667 229 Rooms 78 Hotel Acuazul is an apartment block high-rise with little architectural merit, but lending great views to most rooms, which are surprisingly spacious. Guest rooms come equipped with satellite tv, balcony and bath tub and have a 1970s look about them. The swimming pool is quite small. www.hotelacuazul.com

VARADERO Hotel Dos Mares

Calle 53, esq. Avenida 1ra Tel (45) 612 702, 667 161 Rooms 34 One of the most likeable budget options, this is not a classic beach-resort hotel at all. A pastel-yellow and white building looking something like a large and expensive Meditteranean townhouse, the rooms here are on the small side, but there’s a cool and cosy sunken bar, just below street level. www.islazul.cu

VARADERO Hotel Herradura

Avenida de Playa, e/ 35 y 36 Tel (45) 613 703 Fax (45) 667 496 Rooms 75 A semi-circular building that couldn’t be any closer to the beach, with steps down from the terrace area leading virtually into the ocean. Guest rooms come in twos, and each pair shares a communal living room and blacony, all of which face the sea. The hotel restaurant is not recommended. www.islazul.cu

VARADERO Hotel Ledo

Avenida de Playa y 43 Tel (45) 613 206 Rooms 19 Just across the road from the beach, this is a miniscule hotel by Varadero standards, but its small size lends it an endearing cuteness. Hotel Ledo is a good option if you like peace and quiet at budget prices, but don’t expect anything more than the bare minimum of facilities.

VARADERO Hotel Mar Del Sur

Avenida 3ra y 30 Tel (45) 612 246 Fax (45) 667 881 Rooms 366 Closer to the main road than to the beach, this dated-looking complex has a reasonable set of facilities for the price and, unlike most hotels, receives as many Cuban visitors as foreign tourists. The gardens linking it all together help to soften the look of the clumsily designed concrete blocks. www.islazul.cu

VARADERO Hotel Pullman

Avenida 1ra, e/ 49 y 50 Tel (45) 612 702, 667 161 Rooms 16 Sister hotel of the Hotel Dos Mares (see above) and of a similar down-to-earth character with more of a town than a beach feel. A single castle-like turret gives it a toytown look, and there’s a simple garden terrace around which the rooms are located. It’s worth paying the extra 10 CUC$ for one of the larger rooms with a balcony. www.islazul.cu

VARADERO Hotel Varazul

Avenida 1ra y 13 Tel (45) 667 132 Fax (45) 667 229 Rooms 69 Guests here have access to all the facilities at the Acuazul next door, including the pool. Like its neighbour, this is a high-rise hotel with little charm but its apartments have large guest rooms with balconies and are set up for selfcatering. Fourteen of the rooms are available for long stays. www.islazul.cu

VARADERO Villa Sotavento

Avenida 1ra y 13 Tel (45) 667 132 Fax (45) 667 229 Rooms 36 Blending into the local neighbourhood, Villa Sotavento consists of a variety of different houses, no different in outward appearance to local domestic residences, split into two or three units each and spread around a five- or sixblock area. Guests have access to the facilities at the Hotel Acuazul (see above). www.islazul.cu

VARADERO Club Amigo Tropical

Avenida 1ra, e/ 21 y 22 Tel (45) 613 915 Rooms 173 One of the better-looking and better-equipped town hotels, Club Amigo Tropical is arranged in a u-shaped fourstorey building on the beach side of the peninsula. This mid-range hotel offers two restaurants, a daily entertainment programme, a bar and snack bar plus a medium-sized pool. www.hotelescubanacan.com

VARADERO Cuatro Palmas

Avenida 1ra, e/ 60 y 64 Tel (45) 667 040 Fax (45) 667 208 Rooms 312 A town hotel with optional all-inclusive plans, bridging the gap between the mega resorts up the road and the budget hotels down the other way. Facilities are good, with a gym and sauna, a large buffet restaurant and a more intimate Cuban cuisine restaurant. www.accorhotels.com

VARADERO Hotel Los Delfines

Avenida 1ra, e/ 38 y 39 Tel (45) 667 720 Fax (45) 667 727 Rooms 103 One of the only all-inclusives in the town section of Varadero, this is made up of a set of modern apartment blocks. The compact landscaped grounds and small circular pool are modest by the standards of all-inclusives on the peninsula, but this is one of the few places you can get the all-in treatment without being completely isolated. www.islazul.cu

VARADERO Hotetur Sun Beach

Calle 17, e/ Avenida 1ra y Avenida 3ra Tel (45) 667 490 Fax (45) 614 994 Rooms 272 Two towering blocks, dominating the immediate surroundings, make up this hotel. Among the several high-rise hotels in this part of town, Hotetur Sun Beach has by far the best set of facilities and the largest communal areas, though there are more attractive alternatives in the same price category. www.hotetur.com

VARADERO Club Kawama

Avenida Kawama, e/ 0 y 1 Tel (45) 614 416 to 20 Fax (45) 667 334 Rooms 336 Hugging a long stretch of beach, this is one of the more interesting all-inclusives, thanks to the grey stone, fort-like buildings which were the original resort buildings. It’s in one of these that a marvellous basement restaurant-cabaret is housed. In a separate section of the complex, along the beach, are newer holiday mansions. www.gran-caribe.com

VARADERO Hotel Barlovento

Avenida 1ra, e/ 10 y 12 Tel (45) 667 140 Fax (45) 667 218 Rooms 296 This smart and stylish (though relatively small) all-inclusive is framed around pseudo-colonial architecture that underwent refurbishment in late 2006. It lies within walking distance of the western end of the town and a number of local restaurants. Rooms have a balcony or terrace, kitchenettes and all the usual gadgets. www.gran-caribe.com

VARADERO Palma Real

Avenida 3rd y 64 Tel (45) 614 555 Fax (45) 614 550 Rooms 466 Only a couple of blocks from the beach but backing onto the main road of Varadero, the location of Palma Real is not as good as that of the other upmarket area hotels. It has two large pools, and rooms are of a good standard, though many are in an older but freshly painted building that predates the rest of the complex. www.hotetur.com

VARADERO Puntarena

Avenida Kawama y Final Tel (45) 667 125, 667 667, 667 129 Fax (45) 667 074 Rooms 255 At the western extreme of the peninsula, lying between the ocean and the Laguna de Paso Malo, the two nine-storey buildings that form the corner pieces of this compact resort offer views stretching up almost the entire length of the peninsula. Basketball, minigolf and of course watersports are among the activities available. www.gran-caribe.com

VARADERO Villa Cuba

Avenida Las Américas Km 3 Tel (45) 668 280 Fax (45) 668 282 Rooms 365 The multi-level lobby area, a network of platforms and staircases with a bar at the halfway point, is one of the most captivating hotel interiors in Varadero. From here the grounds stretch down to the beach and feature small groups of villas, each with their own little pools. Two restaurants, a gym, sauna and jacuzzi. www.gran-caribe.com

VARADERO Arenas Blancas

Calle 64, e/ Avenida 1ra y Autopista del Sur Tel (45) 614 450 Fax (45) 614 490 Rooms 358 A family all-inclusive at the very top of the town, Arenas Blancas is the most luxurious hotel in town. The huge main building is otherwise unremarkable but the pool is one of the largest in Varadero, snaking its way around a large part of the landscaped gardens. The guest rooms are very large, with all modern conveniences. www.gran-caribe.com

VARADERO Barcelo Solymar Beach Resort

Avenida Las Américas Km 3 Tel (45) 614 499 Fax (45) 668 791 Rooms 525 This bright and colourful all-inclusive is within walking distance of the eastern end of the town. It packs a whole host of facilities into an area smaller than many of the mega resorts further along the peninsula. On-site are five restaurants, six bars, two pools, two tennis courts, a gym and a children’s playground. www.barcelosolymar.com

VARADERO Mansión Xanadú

Autopista del Sur Km 8.5 Tel (45) 667 388 Fax (45) 668 481 Rooms 6 This unique hotel is housed in the millionaire mansion that belonged to the Dupont Family before they abandoned it with the Revolution (see p163). The guest rooms are huge, the restaurant is one of Varadero’s finest and there are special deals for guests using the golf course next door. [email protected]

VARADERO Meliá Las Americas

Autopista del Sur Km 7 Tel (45) 667 600 Fax (45) 667 625 Rooms 336 Run in conjunction with the golf course that stretches out either side of this superb hotel, Meliá Las Americas is one of the few all-inclusives where most of the rooms are in the main building and the area occupied by the complex is comparatively small. The gardens are fabulous, with undulating paths up to the split-level pool. www.solmeliacuba.com

VARADERO Meliá Paradisus Varadero

Punta Francés Tel (45) 668 700 Fax (45) 668 705 Rooms 429 An ‘ultra all-inclusive’ in the parlance of the Meliá chain that run this staggeringly extensive and expensive complex, with no less than eight restaurants as well as two pools, tennis courts, gym, sauna, and jacuzzi. ıf you want your own pool, sauna and jacuzzi you can pay the extra for the Garden Villa, which also comes with a butler. www.solmeliacuba.com

VARADERO Meliá Cohiba Varadero

Autopista del Sur Km 7 Tel (45) 667 013 Fax (45) 667 012 Rooms 490 This sumptuous shrine to holiday architecture has an unforgettable lobby patio, with hanging vines dropping down six storeys of balconies to encircle a little maze of waterways and plantlife. One of its four restaurants is located on a small clifftop with waves lapping down below. www.solmeliacuba.com

VARADERO Riu Las Morlas

Avenida Las Américas y A, Reparto La Torre Tel (45) 667 230 Fax (45) 667 215 Rooms 148 One of the most intimate all-inclusives, here almost everything is on a smaller scale, lending Las Morlas an endearing appeal. The pool (more of an artificial stream forming a figure of 8) is enclosed by the semi-circular main building, making the main outdoor area feel something like a secret hideaway. Guest rooms are also small. www.riu.com Key to Price Guide see p252 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

VARADERO Sandals Royal Hicacos Resort and Spa

Carretera de las Morlas Km 15 Tel (45) 668 844 Fax (45) 668 851 Rooms 404 On one of the most secluded sections of the peninsula, this resplendent resort has some of the best rooms in Varadero, each with a king-size bed, a living room and bacony or patio all decked out in gentle colours. The impressive facilities include squash courts, a fitness centre, a mini basketball court and three tennis courts. www.sandalshicacos.com

VARADERO Sol Palmeras

Autopista del Sur Km 8 Tel (45) 667 009 Fax (45) 667 008 Rooms 407 (plus 200 bungalows) Dense in plantlife and trees, the grounds around the pool and the various sports courts invite exploration, with paths weaving around the vegetation from the main four-storey building. There are different types of rooms, with standard doubles in the large main building, and over a hundred bungalows and four grades of suites. www.solmeliacuba.com

VARADERO Sol Sirenas Coral

Avenida Las Américas y K, Reparto La Torre Tel (45) 668 070 Fax (45) 668 075 Rooms 660 Sol Sirenas Coral was once two separate resorts, and there are two distinctly different sections that feel quite remote from one another (one in need of an injection of life and colour). It also means there are twice the number of facilities as at most comparable hotels, including three swimming pools. www.solmeliacuba.com

VARADERO SuperClubs Breezes Varadero

Avenida Las Américas Km 3 Tel (45) 667 030 Fax (45) 667 005 Rooms 265 At this over-18s only resort all rooms are suites, with a high level of comfort and lots of space. The usual amenities (plus CD players, irons and ironing boards) come as standard in all suites, while those in the eleven two-storey buildings have separate living rooms. Extensive grounds, fitness centre and three restaurants. www.superclubs.org

VARADERO Tryp Península Varadero

Punta Hicacos Tel (45) 668 800 Fax (45) 668 805, 668 808 Rooms 591 The top choice for families, this massive resort has a fabulous kids’ zone with its own pool that features a little castle on an island, and various other facilities for the under 12s. The standard double rooms would be considered suites in most hotels, with walk-in closets, couch and coffee table, as well as Internet access. www.solmeliacuba.com

CENTRAL CUBA – EAST

CAMAGÜEY Casa de Alfredo Castillo

Cisnero 124 esq. Raúl Lamar Tel (32) 297 436 Rooms 2 A few blocks away from the centre, this is one of the city’s more modern casa particulares with two spacious rooms offering an above-average level of comfort within the private home market. Casa de Alfredo Castillo is astutely well run, and the owners speak English and French. [email protected]

CAMAGÜEY Casa Lucy

Alegría 23, e/ Ignacio Agramonte y Montera Tel (32) 283 701 Rooms 2 This reassuringly clean house has a delightful patio garden with a fountain, seven bird cages and even a liitle bar counter. The rooms are large, one of them actually more of a mini-apartment with a living room and cooking facilities. Good food here, too.

CAMAGÜEY Hotel Colón

República 472 e/ San José y San Martín Tel (32) 283 346, 251 520, 254 878 Fax (32) 254 878 Rooms 47 This medium-sized town hotel is in a beautifully restored 1920s gem of a building. The majestic lobby, with its shiny dark wood, marble and tiled surfaces, is a highlight and sets the tone for the rest of the classy interior spaces, including a lovely central patio and bedrooms which are a bit small – ask for one of the matrimonial rooms. www.islazul.cu

CAMAGÜEY Hotel Plaza

Van Horne 1, Camagüey Tel (32) 282 457, 282 413, 282 435 Rooms 67 The oldest and least refined of Camagüey’s three neo-colonial hotels, this is still a smart-looking place and certainly doesn’t lack character. Guest rooms vary considerably in size and are located either around the central patio or looking onto the street outside. There are two bars in the lobby and a stylish restaurant. www.islazul.cu

CAMAGÜEY Gran Hotel

Maceo 67 e/ Ignacio Agramonte y General Gómez Tel (32) 292 093, 292 094 Fax (32) 293 933 Rooms 72 Built in 1939, this is a real classic and has maintained the look and feel of refined decadence that would have characterized it prior to the Revolution. There’s a rooftop bar and top-floor restaurant, both with great views, and a dimly atmospheric piano bar. Throughout the building are hallmarks of this marvellous hotel’s vintage. www.islazul.cu

CAYO COCO Villa Gaviota

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Coco, Ciego de Ávila Tel (33) 302 180 Fax (33) 302 192 Rooms 48 On a different scale to the majority of the hotels in the Jardines del Rey cays, this down-to-earth little resort provides a pleasant, affordable alternative to the all-inclusives. Wooden communal buildings and one- and two-storey chalets sit nicely with the informal atmosphere. Small pool, gym and beauty parlour. Good for couples. www.gaviota-grupo.com

CAYO COCO Hotel Blau Colonial

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Coco, Ciego de Ávila Tel (33) 301311 Fax (33) 301384 Rooms 286 Following a thorough renovation, this distinctive all-inclusive reopened in 2005. The arch-laden main building is modelled on classic colonial Cuban architecture and centres around a beguiling garden patio. The elegant rooms feature wrought-iron beds and refined wooden furniture in keeping with the colonial theme. www.blau-hotels.com

CAYO COCO Hotel Playa Coco

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Coco, Ciego de Ávila Tel (33) 302 250 Fax (33) 302 255 Rooms 307 Not as impressive as other resorts on Cayo Coco, the colonial theme here could have been taken much further. Nevertheless there are three pools, two jacuzzis (one large enough for 20 people), numerous sporting facilities and Japanese and Italian restaurants. www.gaviota-grupo.com

CAYO COCO Meliá Cayo Coco

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Coco, Ciego de Ávila Tel (33) 301 180 Fax (33) 301 195 Rooms 250 This exceptional all-inclusive resort, aimed at couples (over 18s only), goes for quality over quantity with its facilities. Most outstanding are the 62 rooms suspended over a saltwater lagoon on stilts. Three excellent restaurants include the airy Arena Real, perched just over the water’s edge with serene views. [email protected]

CAYO COCO NH Krystal Laguna Villas Resort

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Coco, Ciego de Ávila Tel (33) 301 470, 301 070 Fax (33) 301 498 Rooms 690 An imaginatively designed jumbo resort, the most remarkable feature of which is the set of cabins built on a natural lagoon. Linked together by wooden gangways, these are top-notch accommodations with living rooms and balconies. Seven restaurants, four pools and three tennis courts are among a huge number of other facilities. www.nh-hotels.com

CAYO COCO Sol Cayo Coco

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Coco, Ciego de Ávila Tel (33) 301 219, 301 036 Fax (33) 301285 Rooms 270 The most family-oriented resort on Coyo Coco has all sorts of facilities for kids, including a playgroup centre and a kids’ pool area. There’s an impressive list of watersports, such as water basketball, canoeing and water polo while the excellent nautical club has numerous catamarans, sailing boats and pedal boats. www.solmeliacuba.com

CAYO COCO Tryp Cayo Coco

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Coco, Ciego de Ávila Tel (33) 301 300 Fax (33) 301 386 Rooms 508 A family all-inclusive with an enormous sprawling pool and extensive ocean front grounds smothered in palm trees. There’s a playground, babysitting services and a kids’ club for 5-13 year olds. Adults wanting to escape can enjoy the smaller “ecological pool” with a jacuzzi . Four restaurants, gym and night-lit tennis courts. www.solmeliacuba.com

CAYO GUILLERMO Villa Cojimar

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Guillermo, Ciego de Ávila Tel (33) 301 712, 301 725 Fax (33) 301 727 Rooms 212 The oldest resort on Cayo Guillermo, Villa Cojimar is a little past its best given the more luxurious, modern neighbouring hotels but it’s also one of the least expensive. The guest rooms, in concrete houses, are better looking on the inside and are well equipped. Facilities include a gym, sauna, jacuzzi and games room. www.gran-caribe.com

CAYO GUILLERMO Iberostar Daiquiri

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Guillermo, Ciego de Ávila Tel (33) 301 650 Fax (33) 301 645 Rooms 312 Iberostar Daiquiri is not as widely spread out as some of the other all-inclusive on the cays, though it is still a large resort. The rooms here are arranged in several long three-storey buildings enveloping the pool area. There are four restaurants, a beach barbecue grill, gym, tennis courts and indoor soccer. www.iberostar.com

CAYO GUILLERMO Meliá Cayo Guillermo

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Guillermo, Ciego de Ávila Tel (33) 301 680 Fax (33) 301 685, 301 684 Rooms 301 Though it isn’t a couples-only resort, Meliá Cayo Guillermo specializes in romance with a wedding gazebo, hammocks in their own hut suspended over the water and a long wooden walkway extending into the sea where covered platforms offer seclusion and tranquility. Four restaurants, fitness centre and two tennis courts. www.solmeliacuba.com

CAYO GUILLERMO Sol Cayo Guillermo

Jardines del Rey, Cayo Guillermo, Ciego de Ávila Tel (33) 301 760 Fax (33) 301 748 Rooms 268 There’s a relaxing, harmonious feel around this neatly designed hotel complex. The scattered bungalows and twostorey villas blend in with the palm-shrouded gardens, all with traditional red brick-coloured roofs, polished tile floors and pastel interiors. There’s an attractive pool and decent stretch of beach. www.solmeliacuba.com

MORÓN Casa de Juan Carlos Espinosa

Cristóbal Colón 39, e/ Carretera de Patria y Linea de Ferrocarril Tel (33) 504 177 Rooms 2 A remarkable casa particular given that it has a swimming pool and a matted-roof bar in the back garden. Right next to the train station, this elegant neo-colonial residence contains two simple but comfortable rooms and is run by the biographer and friend of Buena Vista Social Club’s Pio Leiva, a musician who died in March 2006.

MORÓN Hotel Morón

Avenida Tarafa, Morón, Ciego de Avila Tel (33) 502 230 Fax (33) 502 133 Rooms 143 This is a conveniently located transit hotel and although the building isn’t attractive it is one of the province’s largest hotels outside of the cays, making it a reliable place to get a room if you’re driving through Cuba or out to Cayo Coco. There is a decent sized, clean swimming pool, too. www.islazul.cu Key to Price Guide see p252 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

PENÍNSULA ANCÓN Club Amigo Ancón

Playa Ancón, Península Ancón, Trinidad, Sancti Spíritus Tel (419) 6120, 6123 to 29 Fax (419) 6121 Rooms 279 At the tip of the peninsula, on the best section of beach, recent renovations have brightened up this multi-storey building. There’s plenty to do here, with a large swimming pool, hidden from the beach behind the hotel, two tennis courts, pool tables and bicycles for rent. www.hotelescubanacan.com

PENÍNSULA ANCÓN Hotel Costasur

Playa María Aguilar, Península Ancón, Trinidad, Sancti Spíritus Tel (419) 6174 Fax (419) 6173 Rooms 131 The beach here is inferior to those found nearer the other hotels on the peninsula, but the attractive bungalows lining the seafront lawn are as appealing a place to stay as anywhere else on this stretch of coastline. There’s an airy lobby bar, a tennis court and standard pool. www.hotelescubanacan.com

PENÍNSULA ANCÓN Brisas Trinidad del Mar

Península Ancón, Trinidad, Sancti Spíritus Tel (419) 6500 to 07 Fax (419) 6565 Rooms 241 The newest and most upmarket resort on the peninsula is dotted with architectural touches meant to mimic the colonial buildings up the road in Trinidad. These touches do add some character to what is otherwise a standard all-inclusive with all the usual comfort and facilities, such as tennis courts and a gym as well as a kids’ club. www.hotelescubanacan.com

PLAYA SANTA LUCÍA Club Amigo Mayanabo

Avenida Turística de Tararaco, Playa Santa Lucía, Camagüey Tel (32) 336 184 Fax (32) 365 295 Rooms 225 This hotel is a mixed bag. The landscaped grounds are a tad patchy in places and the main buildings a little dated but it does have the biggest pool in Santa Lucía and there’s a captivating water-bound beach bar at the end of a minipier. Guest rooms are clean but would improve with refurbishment. www.hotelescubanacan.com

PLAYA SANTA LUCÍA Gran Club Santa Lucía

Avenida Turística de Tararaco, Playa Santa Lucía, Nuevitas, Camagüey Tel (32) 336 109 Fax (32) 365 147 Rooms 252 The rooms here and the resort in general are as well equipped as any hotel in the area. There are several restaurants, tennis courts, a beauty parlour, a gym and a games room. Be sure to ask for a room away from the road (some rooms are disappointingly close to the road) or pay extra for a suite. [email protected]

PLAYA SANTA LUCÍA Hotel Brisas Santa Lucía

Avenida Turística, Playa Santa Lucía, Nuevitas, Camagüey Tel (32) 336 317 Fax (32) 365 142 Rooms 400 Admittedly there is a long list of facilities here, among which are five bars, tennis courts, a gym and a host of water sports apparatus, but the hotel really qualifies as a 3-star rather than a 4-star facility. Some of the rooms are in need of refurbishment. www.hotelescubanacan.com

SANCTI SPÍRITUS Casa de Martha Rodríguez Martínez y Miguel

Plácido 69, e/ Calderón y Tirso Marín Tel (41) 235 56 Rooms 2 One of the most professionally run casas particulares in the city. Its guest rooms, which have ceiling fans as well as a/c, tv and top-quailty en suite bathrooms, are cleaned daily and the owner produces a menu for meal times. There’s an intimate terrace where food is served, and a roof terrace with modest views over the city.

SANCTI SPÍRITUS Hotel Zaza

Finca San José Km 5.5, Lago Zaza Tel (41) 270 15 Fax (41) 283 59, 254 90 Rooms 77 Another of Cuba’s shrines to concrete, this heavy-set four-storey hotel is completely out-of-sync with its natural surroundings and the man-made reservoir (the largest of its kind in Cuba) stretching before it. Hunting and particularly fishing are the focus here, and though there’s a pool most visitors bring a rod rather than a swimsuit. www.islazul.cu

SANCTI SPÍRITUS Los Richards

Independencia 17 (altos), Plaza Serafín Sanchez Tel (41) 267 45 Rooms 2 Of all the houses renting rooms in the city, this is the most centrally located. There’s a huge space exclusively for the use of guests with a living-room, bedroom and bathroom as well as a balcony looking out onto the plaza. Up on the roof the owners have contructed their own bohio-roof open-air dining area.

SANCTI SPÍRITUS CITY Hostal del Rijo

Honorato del Castillo 12 Tel (41) 285 88 Fax (41) 285 77 Rooms 16 Considerably underpriced compared to numerous other town hotels in Cuba, this delectable little colonial conversion on a tiny square in the heart of the city is a wonderful place to stay. Rooms are surprisingly spacious, well equipped, subtly decorated with dark-wood furnishings and high-quality bathrooms with marble touches. www.hotelescubanacan.com

SANCTI SPÍRITUS CITY Hostal Plaza

Independencia 1, esq. Avenida de los Mártires, Plaza Serafín Sánchez Tel (41) 271 02 Fax (41) 269 40 Rooms 27 Right on the main square, this is the city’s other excellent-value hotel. All the spaces are full of character, from the graceful lobby with its wicker furnishings to the intimate restaurant and the attractive rooms with colonial-style furnishings, many with balconies looking over the square. Recently refurbished. www.hotelescubanacan.com

SANCTI SPÍRITUS CITY Villa Los Laureles

Carretera Central Km 383 Tel (41) 270 16 Fax (41) 239 13 Rooms 76 This roadside villa complex on the outskirts of the city on the island-wide Carretera Central is used predominantly by weary motorists. The basic layout, with inoffensive-looking bungalows gathered around a medium-sized, oblong pool, adds to the straightforward appeal of the place. Rooms have satellite tv, radio and minibar. www.islazul.cu

SANCTI SPÍRITUS CITY Rancho Hatuey

Carretera Central Km 383 Tel (41) 283 15 to 21 Fax (41) 288 30 Rooms 74 Spread thinly around its spacious, grassy, gently undulating grounds, this simple hotel complex melts into the surrounding countryside to the extent that you can’t really see the joint. Rooms are in boxy, two-storey concrete cabins and there’s a pool area in the centre. The best place in town for peace and relaxation. www.islazul.cu

TRINIDAD Casa de Azalea y Alfredo

Frank País 504, e/ Piro Guinart y Fidel Claro Tel (419) 38 45 Rooms 2 Run by two middle-aged teachers (one of history, the other of maths), this simple house, built in 1840, has some nice touches, like the colonial-era doorway shutters and the more modern crazy-paving on the walls in both bedrooms. There’s a roof terrace and a diminutive patio. [email protected]

TRINIDAD Casa Margely

Piro Guinart 360, e/ Fernando Hernández Echerri y Juan M Márquez Tel (419) 65 25 Rooms 2 The rooms in this fairly opulent colonial residence are walled off at the back of the central patio in a private little section of the house with its own garden gate and dining room. Both rooms have two double beds, but only one has an en suite bathroom; the other bathroom is at the end of the leafy outdoor corridor linking it all up.

TRINIDAD Casa Santana

Maceo 425, e/ Fco. J. Zerquera y Colón Tel (419) 4372 Rooms 1 Casa Santana is run by an enthusiastic host who hands you a book on the history of Trinidad when you arrive. The whole of the upstairs of the house, three rooms in all, is given over to guests. The backyard patio is spacious, and the well is one of the many original colonial artifacts found all over the house. www.particuba.net/villes/trinidad/santana

TRINIDAD Hostal Las Mercedes

Camilo Cienfuegos 272, e/ Maceo y Francisco Cadahía Tel (419) 3107 Rooms 1 On one of the busier streets just outside the historic centre of Trinidad, the room here looks onto the open backyard patio full of plants and trees, including a huge cactus. The high-ceiling guest room has a huge colonial style bathroom, a bronze bed and an imposing wardrobe. Run by an exuberant owner and her son. [email protected]

TRINIDAD Hotel Las Cuevas

Finca Santa Ana Tel (419) 6133, 6434 Fax (419) 6161 Rooms 109 Laid out on a hillside just above the town, there are great views wherever you are in this very relaxing and secluded cabin complex. The serenity is disturbed only by the nightly shows of traditional Cuban music and dance that take place on the terrace outside the restaurant. The unique hotel disco is in a cave deep in the hillside. www.hotelescubanacan.com

TRINIDAD Iberostar Grand Hotel Trinidad

José Martí 262, e/ Lino Pérez y Colón, Parque Céspedes Tel (419) 6073, 6074, 6075 Fax (419) 6077 Rooms 40 Opened in 2006 this sumptuous small-scale five-star hotel has an enchanting central patio and some great touches, like the giant pineapple lampshade and the memorabilia encased in the glass-topped lobby coffee tables. The restaurant is the best and most expensive in Trinidad. Rooms have either a balcony or terrace. www.iberostar.com

EASTERN CUBA BARACOA Casa de Clara Carratalá

Mariana Grajales 30 Tel (21) 433 61 Rooms 2 Run by a chatty former doctor, this laid-back spick-and-span house features rooms centred around a pleasant little patio. The cooking here is of a high standard and the speciality of the house is fish cooked in coconut milk. Casa de Clara Carratalá is located five blocks from the seafront. [email protected]

BARACOA Casa de Nancy Borges Gallego

Ciro Frías 3 esq. Flor Crombet Tel (21) 243 72 Rooms 3 An agreeable place run by friendly owners, one of whom – René Frometa – is the adopted son of local legend La Rusa, an immigrant Russian who gave shelter to the rebel army during the Revolution. One of the rooms here is set up as a kind of museum in homage to the lady. Rooms are clean and comfortable.

BARACOA Hostal La Habanera

Los Maceos 124 e/ Maravi y Frank Pais, Baracoa, Guantánamo Tel (21) 452 25, 452 73 Rooms 10 Occupying a beautifully refurbished Colonial residence built in 1867, this charming hotel is right in the heart of Baracoa. For the price, rooms are of an excellent standard: spacious with high ceilings and smart, tiled floors. The hotel runs a programme of relaxation therapies, including a variety of massages. www.hostallahabanera.com

BARACOA Hotel la Rusa

Máximo Gómez no.161 e/ Pelayo Cuervo y Ciro Frías, Baracoa, Guantánamo Tel (21) 430 11 Fax (21) 423 37 Rooms 12 On the seafront, this simple, three-storey building has small rooms, modestly furnished, with tiny bathrooms. Some have pleasant sea views. The restaurant tables are lined up along a narrow terrace. The former owner was a Russian immigrant (hence the name) who gave refuge to Fidel and his men during the Revolution. www.hotellarusa.com Key to Price Guide see p252 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

BARACOA El Castillo

Loma de Paraíso, Baracoa, Guantánamo Tel (21) 451 94, 451 65 Fax (21) 453 39 Rooms 34 The best place to stay for postcard views of Baracoa and the bay, this laid-back hotel is part-housed in a converted 18th-century fort. The historic theme extends to the rooms, which are furnished in a smart, refined colonial style. The whole hotel is imbued with a soothing sense of calm. Great views from the small pool. www.gaviota-grupo.com

BARACOA Porto Santo

Carretera del Aeropuerto, Baracoa, Guantánamo Tel (21) 451 06 Fax (21) 453 39 Rooms 60 Secluded and right on the edge of the bay, the location is where Columbus is said to have planted the Cruz de Parra, a cross declaring the European arrival in the Americas. The hotel has its own private patch of beach and is gracefully spread around neatly trimmed lawns. Guest rooms are average. www.gaviota-grupo.com

BAYAMO Hotel Escuela Telégrafo

José Antonio Saco no.108, e/ General García y Donato Mármol, Bayamo Tel (23) 425 510 Fax (23) 427 389 Rooms 12 An excellent-value hotel, originally opened in 1925 but remodelled in recent years, is now a training school for the hotel trade. Rooms are furnished with differing styles of beds and contrasting colour schemes, some of them a little garish, but all have minibar and satellite tv. They’re also managed to squeeze in two restaurants and two bars. www.ehtgr.co.cu

BAYAMO Hotel Royalton

Antonio Maceo no.53, e/ General García y José Palma, Bayamo Tel (23) 422 290 Fax (23) 424 792 Rooms 33 The smartest hotel in town, dating from the 1940s, is located on the main square. Its restaurant is one of the best in the city, with a veranda overlooking the square. All rooms have been decorated and furnished with a well-ordered restraint, featuring dark wood, tv and small but pristine bathrooms. Four of them have views of the square. www.islazul.cu

CAIMANERA Hotel Caimanera

Loma Norte, Caimanera, Guantánamo Tel (21) 994 14 to 16 Fax (21) 99649 Rooms 19 This small, simple hotel has a unique claim to fame: it’s as near as most people are allowed to get to the controversial US naval base at Guantánamo Bay and even has a designated lookout from where guests view the base through binoculars. Rooms are slightly cramped. Booking in advance is obligatory. [email protected]

CAYO SAETÍA Villa Cayo Saetía

Cayo Saetia, Mayari, Holguín Tel (24) 969 00, 969 01 Rooms 12 A chilled-out, unpretentious little cabin complex on the coast, perfect for relaxation. The well-equipped wooden cabins are thoughtfully and harmoniously furnished, combining perfectly a good level of comfort with a rustic decor neatly in tune with the natural surroundings. Breakfast is not included in the rate. www.gaviota-grupo.cu

GRANMA PROVINCE Club Amigo Marea del Portillo

Marea del Portillo Km 12 1/2, Pilón, Granma Tel (23) 597 081 to 83 Fax (23) 597 080 Rooms 140 A serene natural setting between the mountains and the sea make this three-star all-inclusive a perfect place to escape. From the pool area, with its mountain views, sloping lawns lead down to lovely, shrub-lined beach. There are programmes of entertainment, including showcases of traditional Cuban culture. www.hotelescubanacan.com

HOLGUÍN CITY Villa Formell

Morales Lemus 189, e/ Frexes y Martí Tel (24) 422 547 Rooms 1 Just a couple of blocks from central Parque Calixto García, this large house is run by Deisy Formell, cousin to Juan Formell – founder of the world-famous Cuban salsa group, Los Van Van. The comfortable guest room has its own bathroom, and communal areas include a pleasant little leafy patio.

HOLGUÍN CITY Hotel Pernik

Avenida Jorge Dimitrov y Plaza de la Revolución, Nuevo Holguín, Holguín Tel (24) 481 011 Fax (24) 481 158 Rooms 200 From the 1970s school of Russian-influenced hotel architecture, this relatively well equipped but unspectacular town hotel has a large oblong pool, three restaurants and several bars. More uniquely, there are eight “gallery rooms” dedicated to personalities from the world of Cuban culture. www.hotelpernik.cu

HOLGUÍN PROVINCE Villa Mirador de Mayabe

Altura de Mayabe Km 8.5, Holguín Tel (24) 422 160, 423 485 Fax (24) 425 498 Rooms 24 Perched on a hillside covered in flourishing dense woodlands and overlooking a valley surrounding the city of Holguin, the view from this hotel is a large part of the attraction of staying here. A smaller part is witnessing the resident beer-drinking donkey! www.islazul.cu

PARQUE BACONAO Villa Gran Piedra

Carretera Gran Piedra Km 14, Santiago de Cuba Tel (22) 686 393, 686 147, 686 395 Rooms 22 At over 1,200 m (3,940 ft) above sea level, this is Cuba’s highest hotel. The breathtaking views from this mountainside resort, woven into the ruins of a colonial coffee plantation, make it a very special place to stay, even though the amenities and facilities here are only average. Rooms are in stone and brick cabins. www.islazul.cu

PARQUE BACONAO Club Amigo Carisol Los Corales

Carretera de Baconao Km 31, Santiago de Cuba Tel (22) 356 161 Fax (22) 356 177 Rooms 310 The Club Amigo Carisol Los Corales has its own section of beach and accommodation is spread out around attractive tree-studded grounds. Decent pool and a lively entertainment schedule, but the standard of food is average. There’s a kids’ club, and water sports facilities include catamarans, kayaks and aqua bikes. www.hotelescubanacan.com

PARQUE BACONAO Hotel Costa Morena

Carretera de Baconao Km 24 1/2, Sigüa, Santiago de Cuba Tel (22) 356 135 Fax (22) 356 160 Rooms 126 Overlooking the Caribbean and surrounded by the hills of the Parque Baconao, this is a great place to stay if you like the outdoors. There’s a natural swimming pool as well as a standard man-made one, and all rooms have sea views. Hiking and trekking around the park can be arranged from here. www.islazul.cu

PLAYA COVARRUBIAS Villa Covarrubias

Playa Covarrubias, Puerto Padre, Las Tunas Tel (31) 515 530 Fax (31) 515 352 Rooms 180 This waterfront all-inclusive with landscaped grounds leading down to the beach is located close to a fantastic coral reef. There are facilities for snorkelling and diving, while other available activities range from billiards, table tennis and bingo to basketball, archery and exercises in the aqua gym. www.hotelescubanacan.com

PLAYA ESMERALDA Paradisus Río de Oro

Carretera Guardalavaca, Playa Esmeralda, Rafael Freyre, Holguín Tel (24) 300 90 Fax (24) 300 95 Rooms 300 This ultra all-inclusive set on a bayfront nature reserve has an exclusive feel and is aimed predominantly at the couples market, with facilities for weddings and honeymoons. All rooms are luxurious and tasteful and the two Garden Villas have 300 sq m (3,230 sq ft) of private grounds and their own pools and gardens. www.solmeliacuba.com

PLAYA ESMERALDA Sol Río de Luna y Mares

Playa Esmeralda, Rafael Freyre, Holguín Tel (24) 300 30 Fax (24) 300 65 Rooms 465 On a fantastic, broad stretch of beach backing onto wooded, palm-dotted grounds, this family resort has a lively, upbeat feel. Rooms are colourful and all feature either a terrace or a balcony. Six restaurants, two pools and two tennis courts, plus a beach disco. It is also the site of the only certified dive centre in the area. www.solmeliacuba.com

PLAYA GUARDALAVACA Club Amigo Atlántico-Guardalavaca

Playa Guardalavaca, Banes, Holguín Tel (24) 301 80 to 82, 301 21 Fax (24) 302 00 Rooms 747 A vast all-inclusive complex with a variety of different accommodation choices, some in the large main building, others in villas of varying shapes and sizes. Dance and Spanish classes are offered alongside all sorts of sporting facilities with football, basketball, tennis, volleyball and archery all catered for. www.cubanacan.cu

PLAYA GUARDALAVACA Hotel Brisas Guardalavaca

Calle 2 no.1, Playa Guardalavaca, Banes, Holguín Tel (24) 302 18, 301 62 Fax (24) 304 18 Rooms 437 A hotel village made up of attractive tiled-roof apartment blocks. The under-12s are well-catered for here with a kids’ club, games area and a full programme of entertainment. Adults don’t do badly either, and all doubles come with king-sized beds. The all-inclusive package includes tours of a historic Amerindian village. www.brisasguardalavaca.com

PLAYA PESQUERO Blau Costa Verde Beach Resort

Playa Pesquero, Rafael Freyre, Holguín Tel (24) 305 10 Fax (24) 305 15 Rooms 309 At the heart of this luxury resort is the impressive and alluring pool, snaking around trees and buildings and featuring a poolside bar and restaurant. Other facilities include a beauty parlour, jacuzzi, gymnasium, a diving centre, a disco and a cigar shop. There’s also a baby-sitting service. www.blau-hotel.com

PLAYA PESQUERO Hotel Playa Pesquero

Playa Pesquero, Rafael Freyre, Holguín Tel (24) 305 30 Fax (24) 305 35 Rooms 944 A staggeringly large all-inclusive hotel complex on the beach. The endless list of facilities includes three swimming pools, three jacuzzis, seven restaurants, six bars and three tennis courts with spotlights for night-time games. Rooms are luxurious and feature Internet access as well as all the mod cons you would expect. www.gaviota-grupo.com

PLAYA PESQUERO Playa Costa Verde

Playa Pesquero, Rafael Freyre, Holguín Tel (24) 305 20 Fax (24) 305 25 Rooms 480 A beachfront mega-resort featuring a great selection of outdoor areas including a huge pool, a set of four tennis courts and a multi-purpose sports pitch all linked together by immaculately landscaped gardens. Indoors there’s an extremely well-equipped gym as well as Japanese, Italian and Cuban restaurants . www.gaviota-grupo.com

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Casa Colonial Maruchi

Hartmann (San Félix) 357, e/ Trinidad y San Germán Tel (22) 620 767 Rooms 2 One of the most professionally run and characterful casas particulares in the city. The front rooms are furnished with Colonial period furniture, and the delightful central patio has plants everywhere and a peacock roaming around. Gregarious Maruchi runs the place. www.casasantiagodecubacolonial.sitio.net

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Casa de Leonardo y Rosa

Clarín (Padre Quiroga) 9, e/ Aguilera y Heredia Tel (22) 623 574 Rooms 2 This early 20th-century residence offers two guest accommodations – a small double room with a large bathroom, and located at the back of the house beyond the patio with its attractive water feature is a separate little apartment with its own garden gate, kitchenette with classic 1950s fridge and stone steps leading up to the airy bedroom.

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Casa de Sra Vilma Cerrero

Avenida Garzón 332, e/ 2da y 3ra, Reparto Santa Bárbara Tel (22) 656 981 Rooms 2 One of the few casas particulares in this part of town, halfway between the historic centre and the outer suburban neighbourhoods. It is an eclectically furnished and decorated 1920s bungalow with a roof terrace and a higgedlypiggedly back yard. The elderly owners have a Chevrolet 53 parked in the tiny driveway. Key to Price Guide see p252 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Casa Mundo

Heredia 308, e/ Pío Rosado (Carnicería) y Porfirio Valiente (Calvario) Tel (22) 624 097 Rooms 2 A colonial house right in the historic centre of the city. Though there is no single definable style, inside there is a genuine sense of the past and some great pieces of furniture, like the ornate early 20th-century dresser in one of the bedrooms. Both rooms have their own bathroom, but only one is en suite. [email protected]

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Gran Hotel

José Antonio Saco (Enramada) 312, esq. Hartmann (San Félix) Tel (22) 653020 Rooms 15 An everyday town hotel and the least touristy in Santiago de Cuba. Located on one of the main shopping streets, a couple of blocks from Parque Céspedes, this budget option is surrounded by hustle and bustle. Rooms are basic but clean and comfortable, and some have small balconies. www.granhotelstgo.cu

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Hostal San Basilio

Bartolomé Masó 403 e/ Carnicería y Porfirio Valiente (Calvario) Tel (22) 651702 Fax (22) 687069 Rooms 8 Tucked away on an old, narrow street a few blocks from the main square, this a pleasant, tiny hotel is housed in a graceful colonial residence. It’s the kind of place where you can’t help getting to know the staff, with the receptionist doubling up as the waiter and the dinky kitchen and dining area occupying the same room. www.hotelescubanacan.com

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Hotel Libertad

Aguilera 652, Plaza de Marte Tel (22) 627710 Rooms 17 On the least touristy of the three central squares, this neo-colonial conversion has bags of character and is more stylish and refined than its price band might suggest. A dignified, columned, arched lobby leads onto wide corridors and a broad staircase ascending to the roof-terrace bar and sweeping vistas of the east of the city. www.islazul.cu

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Versalles

Carretera al Morro Km 1, Altura de Versalles Tel (22) 691016 Fax (22) 686039 Rooms 72 From this good-value cabin complex near the historic El Morro castle, beyond the southern edge of Santiago, there are fabulous views back over the city and out to the Sierra Maestra mountains. Facilities include tennis, basketball and volleyball courts. There is also easy access to the airport. www.cubanacan.cu

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Hotel Las Américas

General Cebreco y Avenida de las Américas Tel (22) 642011 Fax (22) 687075 Rooms 70 The location on the aristocratic side of the city, with its broad, tree-lined avenues, provides what was formerly one of Santiago’s most prestigious hotels with attractive enough surroundings to take the less attractive edge off this now dated-looking apartment hotel. As well as two restaurants and two bars, the hotel has its own cabaret. www.islazul.cu

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Hotel San Juan

Carretera de Siboney Km 1 1/2 Tel (22) 687200 Fax (22) 687237 Rooms 110 Right at the city limits, this is a laid-back place to stay set in attractive, verdant grounds with a large swimming pool around which many of the cabins housing the rooms are centred. The rooms themselves are nothing special but well equipped with satellite tv, radio, safety deposit box and en suite bathrooms. www.sanjuan.co.cu

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Villa Gaviota Santiago de Cuba

Avenida Manduley 502, e/ 19 y 21, Reparto Vista Alegre Tel (22) 641368 Fax (22) 687166 Rooms 54 Dotted around this enchanting neighbourhood that was home to the city’s wealthy before the Revolution, the guest rooms here are in converted mansions, which have been divided into two or three apartments each. Some rooms share bathrooms. A purpose-built central building houses the pool and restaurant. www.gaviota-grupo.com

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Hotel Casa Granda

Heredia 201 esq. San Pedro Tel (22) 686600 Fax (22) 686035 Rooms 58 A magnificent colonial building on the main square in the heart of the city, this is ideal for anyone wanting to stay in the thick of the action without sacrificing comfort. Rooms are of a high standard and there is a roof terrace where you can eat and drink with sweeping views down to the bay. www.gran-caribe.com

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Meliá Santiago de Cuba

Calle M e/ 4ta y Avenida Las Américas Tel (22) 687070 Fax (22) 687170 Rooms 302 On a pleasant, leafy avenue away from the centre, this is the flashiest, most upmarket hotel in Santiago. The main building is a quirky, colourful high-rise block from which most rooms with stunning views. There are three good restaurants, and the impressive grounds feature a fantastic split-level pool, a basketball court and football pitch. www.solmeliacuba.com

SIERRA MAESTRA Brisas Los Galeones

Carretera Chivirico Km 72 Tel (22) 326160 Rooms 34 The sister hotel of the Brisas Sierra Mar (below), this is the more intimate version of the impressive all-inclusive. All rooms have mountain and sea views. A minibus links the two hotels, 12 km (7.5 miles) apart, and guests can use the facilities at either, which include massage, jacuzzi, sauna, gym and tennis courts. Over 16s only. www.hotelescubanacan.com

SIERRA MAESTRA Brisas Sierra Mar

Carretera Chivirico Km 60 Tel (22) 329110 Fax (22) 329116 Rooms 200 A beach-front hotel in its own beautiful little woody enclave with the Sierra Maestra mountains as a backdrop. A great option for families with young children, as this all-inclusive has a play area and a series of entertainment programmes designed for 4- to 12-year olds. Many rooms have balconies with uninterrupted sea views. www.hotelescubanacan.com

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Plantains

Guava paste and white cheese

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Papaya

Some of the tropical fruits that add flavour and colour to Cuban cuisine

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Fruit and vegetable stall at a Havana farmers’ market

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Cubans fishing in the evening on the Malecon in Havana

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Cerdo asado

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SPIRITS

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PRICE CATEGORIES (IN CUBAN CONVERTIBLE PESOS – CUC$) For a three-course meal for one including a cocktail, tax and service: Under 10 CUC$ 10–15 CUC$ 15–20 CUC$ 20–25 CUC$ Over 25 CUC$

HAVANA HABANA VIEJA Gentiluomo

Obispo esq. Bernaza Tel (7) 867 1300 ext.134

Map 4 D2

This is the most conveniently located Italian restaurant in this part of town – you will almost certainly pass this place at some point, at the top of Habana Vieja’s busiest street. It serves average-quality pasta but generously topped pizzas, and at as little as 3 CUC$, this is an inexpensive if somewhat soulless place to re-fuel.

HABANA VIEJA Hanoi

Brasil (Teniente Rey) esq. Bernaza Tel (7) 867 1029

Map 4 D3

Without doubt the least expensive restaurant in Habana Vieja, this seemingly Cuban-Vietnamese place serves standard-fare meat and seafood dishes, all cooked in the usual Cuban way. Paella and lobster, both at half the price you’d pay elsewhere, also feature on the menu. A series of plain but intimate rooms make up the dining area.

HABANA VIEJA Al Medina

Oficios no.12, e/ Obispo y Obrapía Tel (7) 867 1041

Map 4 F2

The key to making the most of this Lebanese restaurant, whether in the lovely canopied courtyard or under the brick arches inside, is to not expect authentic Arabic food. Pollo Musukan or Samac Libanes might sound like exotic dishes but are actually simply prepared meat and fish, grilled or fried without spices or sauces but with perfectly fresh ingredients.

HABANA VIEJA La Bodeguita del Medio

Empedrado no. 207, e/ San Ignacio y Cuba Tel (7) 866 8857

Map 4 E2

The most famous restaurant in the city, this is definitely a tourist trap but at the same time has retained much of the alluring character that made it so popular in the first place. Always packed, this grotto of narrow corridors and intimate corners is never short on sociable atmosphere. The Cuban meat and seafood dishes are good but don’t quite match the ambience.

HABANA VIEJA La Dominica

O’Reilly 108 esq. Mercaderes Tel (7) 860 2918

Map 4 E2

There’s a seafood slant at this decent Italian restaurant with smoked salmon on the starters menu, shrimp and lobster pasta among the specials and a number of shrimp and squid dishes. The laid-back pavement café is in contrast to the chandeliers and polished floors of the refined, rather formal interior. There’s a good wine list here.

HABANA VIEJA La Julia

O’Reilly no.506a, e/ Bernaza y Villegas Tel (7) 862 7438

Map 4 D2

This stalwart Habana Vieja paladar has been dishing out specialist pork dishes for years. Not much variety, but satisfying portions and good-quality cooking. You step off the street directly into the dining room, so the less-than-private eating experience, with people constantly poking their head around the door, won’t suit everyone, but is idiosyncratically Cuban.

HABANA VIEJA La Mina

Oficios esq. Obispo, Plaza de Armas Tel (7) 862 0216

Map 4 E2

At the heart of the tourist circuit, this place is always buzzing with foreign clientele and is a lively place to experience Cuban creole cooking. The fish, pork and chicken meals are surprisingly well priced given the touristy location and there are seven dining areas to choose from, including the terrace on the square and a superior central courtyard.

HABANA VIEJA La Torre de Marfil

Mercaderes, e/ Obispo y Obrapía Tel (7) 867 1038

Map 4 E2

This Chinese restaurant in the most spruced-up section of the old city has a red and black colour scheme and some hearty, good-value chop sueys, including a vegetarian option. Soups are one of the specialities here, and all dishes are served up on fine Oriental china. There’s an indoor pagoda and a simple central patio.

HABANA VIEJA El Baturro Egido no.661, e/ Merced y Jesús María Tel (7) 860 9078

Map 4 E4

The waiters at this rustic restaurant usually offer a set-meal menu featuring a cocktail, blackbean or chickpea soup, a main dish of lobster, shrimp, beef or chicken with viandas, rice and salad, dessert and coffee. Though not overpriced, you will be obliged to spend more than you would otherwise pay if you coax the à la carte menu out of them. Key to Symbols see back cover flap

HABANA VIEJA El Jardín del Edén Hotel Raquel, Amargura esq. San Ignacio Tel (7) 860 8280

Map 4 E2

The only Jewish restaurant in the city. In the captivatingly elegant lobby of this fantastic hotel, this semi-formal place offers a distinctive eating experience. Beetroot soup and Milanese eggplant stand out among the starters, with shashliks (kebabs) featuring heavily in the main dishes. Unusual accompaniments like sweet and sour cabbage complete the picture.

HABANA VIEJA El Santo Ángel

Brasil (Teniente Rey) esq. San Ignacio, Plaza Vieja Tel (7) 861 1626

Map 4 E3

There are original uses of standard Cuban ingredients at this highly respectable restaurant, producing dishes like spiced grilled chicken in peppermint and lemon sauce, or fish with toasted almonds. Choose from a table on the plaza, the pleasant central patio or the graceful dining rooms in this historic building. The 20 CUC$ set meal is good value.

HABANA VIEJA El Patio

San Ignacio no.54, Plaza de la Catedral Tel (7) 867 1035

Map 4 E2

A seemingly endless succession of bands keep the only restaurant on the Plaza de la Catedral lively day and night. This is a good place to try top-quality Cuban classics. The grilled lobster is expensive but very good, and the Ropa Vieja (shredded beef) and Lonjas de pierna (slices of pork) are faithfully prepared. A choice of 11 rooms and a wonderful leafy patio.

HABANA VIEJA El Templete

Avenida del Puerto no.12-14 esq. Narcisco López Tel (7) 866 8807

Map 4 F2

This seafood specialist facing the harbour offers the best cuisine in Habana Vieja. Significantly, the head chef is Basque and breaks all the Cuban norms with plenty of flavours and variety. From an impressive set of starters, like octopus a la gallega, to simple mains like grilled sardines or fancier dishes like eel a la vasca, it’s all top quality.

HABANA VIEJA El Floridita

Avenida de Bélgica (Monserrate) esq. Obispo Tel (7) 867 1299

Map 4 D2

One of the plushest restaurants in this part of the city, beyond the classic bar where Hemingway famously used to drink, has soft furnishings and soft lighting but hard prices. Fancy dishes like shrimp in orange cream sauce or thermidor lobster characterize the menu, while the cocktail list is perhaps the most comprehensive in the city.

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Casa de Castilla Neptuno no.519, e/ Campanario y Lealtad Tel (7) 862 5482

Map 3 C2

The simple creole cuisine on offer at this restaurant in the heart of Centro Habana is fresh, well prepared and tasty, offering outstanding value for money. A sliding door at the back of a large entrance hall seals the dining room off from the noise and heat of the busy street.

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Chan Li Po Campanario no.453, e/ Zanja y San José Tel (7) 870 3686

Map 3 C3

The hybrid menu at this characterful place, popular among the locals and off the beaten track near Chinatown, includes pizzas, chop suey dishes and traditional Cuban cuisine. The staircase up from the street takes you into the comfortable dining rooms, usually humming with chatter. The pizzas are huge.

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO A Prado y Neptuno

Paseo del Prado esq. Neptuno Tel (7) 860 9636

Map 4 D2

Some of the best, most authentic pizzas in the city are served up here on large wooden plates at this popular, downto-earth Italian eatery. There are some seafood main dishes and 14 pastas, but the real focus is on the 19 different pizzas. Dimly lit, with a clubby vibe, this place is almost always bustling, even when neighbouring restaurants are dead.

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO El Fénix Animas no.273, e/ Aguila y Amistad Tel (7) 863 6334

Map 3 C2

Tucked away on the first floor of a typical neo-colonial Centro Habana building, this simple restaurant has a private, almost exclusive feel. The food is above average for a paladar in both quality and price. Pork, fish, chicken and lobster are all on the menu and come with well-prepared classic side dishes like congri and tostones.

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO La Guarida

Concordia no.418, e/ Gervasio y Escobar Tel (7) 863 7351, 866 9047

Map 3 B2

This paladar is special. Its original claim to fame as the top-floor apartment where the film Fresa y Chocolate was shot has now been superceded by the reputation of its food and ambience. Whether the succulent mutton marinated in papaya juice or the tuna à la sugar cane, every dish is imaginative and flavourful. Three cosy, eclectically decorated rooms.

CENTRO HABANA AND PRADO Roof Garden Hotel Sevilla, Trocadero no.55, e/ Paseo del Prado y Agramonte Tel (7) 860 8560 ext.164

Map 4 D2

This ritzy gourmet restaurant on the ninth floor of the Hotel Sevilla owes its sense of occasion to the regal decor and furnishings, featuring an ornately crafted high ceiling and panoramic views through its huge windows. The offerings are vaguely French but definitely out-of-the-ordinary by Cuban standards, like rum lobster. Open from 7pm.

VEDADO El Conejito Calle M esq. 17 Tel (7) 832 4671

Map 2 E1

A red-brick lodge with a chimney stack and a mock-Tudor interior is not the usual Vedado edifice, and this isn’t the usual Cuban restaurant, with a menu dominated by rabbit dishes. They have found a surprising variety of ways to cook the little critter, from roasting or grilling to serving it in garlic or mushroom sauce. Other meats and seafood are also available.

VEDADO La Casona de 17

17 no.60, e/ M y N Tel (7) 838 3136

Map 2 E1

Located in a freshly painted neo-colonial building with a grand, columned terrace and first-floor balcony, the food here is mostly Cuban, though there is a house paella made with shrimp, pork, chicken and fish. The Arroz con Pollo (rice with chicken topped with peas) starter, another house speciality, is recommended.

VEDADO El Hurón Azul

Humboldt 153, e/ O y P Tel (7) 879 1691

Map 2 F2

Rated highly by locals, the setting of this paladar – a ground-floor flat on a block of uninspiring apartment buildings – is fairly ordinary, but the menu is very impressive. A fantastic array of fish, chicken, rabbit, pork, lamb and rice options, many in rich sauces, and a small selection of Italian-style dishes are followed by one of the best dessert selections in Havana.

VEDADO La Roca

21 esq. M Tel (7) 834 4501

Map 2 E2

The food here is good – the grilled fillet of fish is a good choice, as is the better-than-average-value lobster, and beef is prominent on the international and Cuban menu – but more of a draw is the distinctive environment. Formal black-tie service in an Art Deco dining space with coloured-glass panels that give off a soothing light.

VEDADO El Polinesio

Calle 23, e/ L y M Tel (7) 834 6131

Map 2 F2

Below the lobby of the Habana Libre hotel, but accessed from the street outside, there is a distinct basement flavour to this moody, low-ceiling, bamboo-bedecked establishment that supposedly specializes in Polynesian food (CubanAsian would be more accurate). Barbecued chicken is the house speciality.

VEDADO La Torre

Edificio Focsa, 17 e/ M y N Tel (7) 834 3088

Map 2 E1

There are spectacular views from this restaurant at the top of this vast apartment block. On offer is a broad selection of good-quality Cuban and international fare, including seafood dishes like flame-grilled shrimp and various roasted or grilled meats. The chocolate profiteroles are delicious. You can also just have a drink at the bar – the bar food isn’t bad, either.

VEDADO 1830

Malecón no.1252 esq. 20 Tel (7) 834 3090 to 92

Map 1 A3

At this magnificent mansion in its own private corner of Vedado on the waterfront near Miramar, a delectable selection of cosmopolitan dishes is served, including duck in orange sauce and beef in blue cheese. The formal, attentive staff match the sumptuous dining rooms, but the mood lightens on the terrace during the nightly music and dance shows.

GREATER HAVANA (COJÍMAR) La Terraza de Cojímar

Real no.61, Cojímar Tel (7) 939232 This restaurant is renowned for its Ernest Hemingway associations, and held more allure when it was frequented by the late Gregorio Fuentes – on whom the author based the protagonist in The Old Man and the Sea. You can still enjoy seafood soup, shrimp and various fish dishes surrounded by photos of both men and some big local catches.

GREATER HAVANA (HABANA DEL ESTE) Los XII Apóstoles

Castillo del Morro, Parque Morro Cabaña Tel (7) 863 8295 From the terrace of this restaurant at the foot of the El Morro fortress, there are pleasant views of Habana Vieja on the other side of the bay. Traditional Cuban food is served behind a battery of 12 cannons (the 12 “apostles” in the restaurant’s name). Somewhat at odds with the relaxing atmosphere, a karaoke bar-cum-nightclub operates nightly ‘til 3am.

GREATER HAVANA (HABANA DEL ESTE) La Divina Pastora

Avenida Monumental, Parque Morro Cabaña Tel (7) 860 8341 Get a table out on the terrace from where you can enjoy the fantastic views of the city and bay – the main reason for making the trip here. The Cuban cuisine is reasonable but pricey. There’s a lobster tank here, so if you like your shellfish fresh, this is a good option. The excellent live traditional music also makes a visit worthwhile.

GREATER HAVANA (JARDÍN BOTÁNICO NACIONAL) El Bambú

Jardín Botánico Nacional, Carretera Rocío Km 3.5, Calabazar Tel (7) 547278 Looking down onto the beautifully landscaped Japanese section of the Botanical Gardens, outside the city proper, this excellent organic, vegetarian outdoor restaurant has one of the most serene settings in the whole of Havana. They operate a buffet service, with herbs from the gardens flavouring the salads, rices and soups. Open lunchtime only, Wed-Sun.

GREATER HAVANA (LA LISA) La Giraldilla

Calle 222 esq. Avenida 37, Reparto La Coronela Tel (7) 273 0568 On the western outskirts of the city, on a magnificent country estate, are the delightful dining areas of swanky La Giraldilla. You can enjoy top-quality Cuban delicacies in the splendid dining hall where arched floor-to-ceiling windows create a lovely light, on the fantastic leafy patio, or in the candle-lit wine cellar. There’s a cigar shop and nightclub here, too.

GREATER HAVANA (MIRAMAR) Don Cangrejo

Avenida 1ra, e/ 16 y 18 Tel (7) 204 5002 This waterfront restaurant with outdoor tables right by the ocean is one of Havana’s finest seafood specialists. The large variety of dishes includes crab cooked in several styles, shrimp, lobster and its Gran Mariscada house special – a huge mixed seafood platter. It is run by the Ministry of Fisheries, guaranteeing that the fish here is as fresh as possible. Key to Price Guide see p276 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

GREATER HAVANA (MIRAMAR) El Aljibe

Avenida 7ma, e/ 24 y 26 Tel (7) 204 1583 With a reputation for up-to-the-mark creole cooking going back many years, this top-class ranch-style restaurant is a great place to sample some classic national dishes like Picadillo de Res (minced beef), Masas de Cerdo (hunks of pork) and the house special, Pollo Asado El Aljibe (roast chicken in citrus juices). Plenty of rustic charm.

GREATER HAVANA (MIRAMAR) La Cecilia

Avenida 5ta, e/ 110 y 112 Tel (7) 204 1562 Surrounded by and entwined with tropical plants, this is a subdued place to enjoy the mostly Cuban menu, except when there’s a tour group visiting. As well as a fine selection of typical pork, beef, chicken and fish dishes, the rarely seen house special, Tamal en Cazuela, is a simple but delicious creamy maize soup. There’s a good wine list, too.

GREATER HAVANA (MIRAMAR) Tocororo

Avenida 3ra y 18 Tel (7) 204 2209, 204 2998 This smart but laid-back eatery in a fabulously decorated Miramar mansion is a good place for foodies as there’s no fixed menu and the chefs will do their best to accommodate all requests. Effectively two restaurants in one, the emphasis is mainly on creole ingredients, including live lobster, with a smaller Japanese section serving sushi and tempura.

GREATER HAVANA (PLAYA) La Ferminia

Avenida 5ta no.18207 esq. 184, Reparto Flores Tel (7) 273 6786, 273 6555 In the decadent surroundings of what was once a residential mansion, there are four elegant private dining rooms with windows onto the beautiful garden patio, which holds more tables. Topping the list of exquisitely prepared international and Cuban food is La Espada Corrida, a full-on mix of six different tasty meats.

WESTERN CUBA ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD El Cochinito

José Martí esq. 24, Nueva Gerona Tel (46) 322 809 Cubans and foreigners alike are charged in normal pesos here, so the creole cuisine works out extremely cheap. Right in the centre of Nueva Gerona, this is one of the best-known restaurants round these parts but don’t assume this translates to top-end cookery. Like at most peso restaurants the food is basic, but good value.

ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD La Insula

José Martí esq. 22, Nueva Gerona Tel (46) 321 825 The only place in Nueva Gerona that can justifiably claim to have a bit of class, this is the most popular restaurant with tourists and has the most reliable meals in town. Their take on traditional Cuban dishes includes Pollo Insula, a chicken dish in a sweet and sour sauce with butter, and Lomo Ahumado – smoked loin of pork.

PINAR DEL RÍO Nuestra Casa

Colón no.161, e/ Ceferino Fernández A meal here in one of the city’s only two paladares feels like eating in a giant tree house, with several tables set out on a roof terrace in the shadow of overhanging trees. Set meals of simply prepared chicken, fish or pork make up the limited selection here. This is a basic operation but it still offers better food than in all the state restaurants in town.

PINAR DEL RÍO Rumayor

Carretera a Viñales Km 1, Pinar del Río city Tel (48) 763 007, 763 051 The best state restaurant in the provincial capital of Pinar del Río is out of the way, on a woody patch of land on the northern outskirts of the city. The smoked chicken is the best dish on a short menu, but the rustic surroundings of this wooden lodge and its tribal imagery give it character. Ring ahead, as opening hours are sporadic.

SIERRA DEL ROSARIO Casa del Campesino

Comunidad de Las Terrazas, Las Terrazas Tel (48) 578 555, 578 700 For a traditional farm meal, surrounded by animals, fruit trees and beehives, visit this farmer’s countryside house where guests can help with the cooking, share with the family, walk around the house, or even ride on horseback while waiting for the roast pork or chicken to be served. A nice experience.

SIERRA DEL ROSARIO El Romero

Comunidad de Las Terrazas, Las Terrazas Tel (48) 578 555 ext.129 This organic, predominantly vegetarian restaurant perched over the back of the village in an apartment block is a rarity in Cuba, offering a comprehensive menu of genuinely tasty, imaginatively prepared and presented non-meat dishes. Purées, soups, salads, pastas, pâtes, egg dishes and more. Each dish comes in large, medium or small portions.

VIÑALES El Palenque de los Cimarrones

Cueva de San Miguel, Carretera a Puerto Esperanza Km 36 Tel (48) 796 290 You can drive or walk around the outside of the mogote hill, behind which are the bohio roofs of this tour-group lunchonly stop, but it’s more fun to go through the rock itself to the hideout location on the other side. Juicy chicken dishes and other creole food make up the menu. Coincide with a tour group and you’ll get an Afro-Cuban show of music and dance.

VIÑALES Casa de Don Tomás

Salvador Cisnero, e/ Adela Azcuy y Carretera a Pinar del Río Tel (48) 796 300 The only proper restaurant in the village at Viñales, and one of few places open after dark, this ranch building surrounded by attractive gardens is always full of guests. The house special, the Delicias de Don Tomás – a weighty combination of meats and rice – is not for the faint-hearted. For more delicate palates there’s good-value lobster, fish, pork and chicken.

VIÑALES Las Terrazas

Hotel La Ermita Tel (48) 796 071 ext.216 The best-located restaurant in Viñales is on a hillside balcony terrace at the back of this hotel complex, with stunning views of the valley. There are a number of pricey but worthwhile lobster options on the Cuban menu and plenty of cheaper dishes, most of them following the same grilled-meat formula so prevalent across the country.

CENTRAL CUBA – WEST CIENFUEGOS Dinos Pizza

Calle 31, e/ 54 y 56 Tel (43) 552 020 This plain, straighforward pizzeria right in the heart of the historic town centre offers great value medium-crust pizzas and a few Cuban staples like chicken, pork and shrimp. Choose between a small and family-sized base and add your own toppings for between 50 c and 4 CUC$ a pop. The small size is easily enough for one person.

CIENFUEGOS Café Cienfuegos

Club Cienfuegos, Paseo del Prado, e/ Ave. 8 y Ave.12 Tel (43) 512 891 ext.112 In the palatial Club Cienfuegos building is this refined seafood restaurant with a classic saloon bar and high ceilings. It’s one of the best restaurants in Cienfuegos, if you want a sense of occasion. Fish, shrimp and lobster dominates the menu but there’s also vegetarian paella and several meat dishes. The 3 CUC$ entrance fee will be taken off your bill.

CIENFUEGOS El Criollito

Calle 33 no. 5603, e/ 56 y 58 Tel (43) 525 540 Another menu-less paladar, the waiter will offer you chicken, pork or fish cooked to your requirements, each accompanied by copious amounts of fried plantain chips, rice and salad. One of only two legal paladares in the whole of Cienfuegos, and the more reliably open of the two thanks to the central location of this colonial house.

CIENFUEGOS Palacio del Valle

Paseo del Prado esq. Ave. 0 Tel (43) 551 226 The ornate dining room in the magnificent Palacio del Valle is in keeping with the intricate Moorish architecture that characterizes the whole building. The food isn’t quite magnificent, but the seafood platter or the lobster are good bets. Climb the spiral staircase to the delightful rooftop bar for views of the bay and city.

CIENFUEGOS 1869

Hotel Unión, Calle 31 esq. 54 Tel (43) 551 020 ext.318 There are touches of refinement in this hotel restaurant, but it stops short of real elegance. Four central arches divide the room in two, and there are examples of colonial-era furnishings. There’s a wide choice of traditional Cuban dishes from picadillo and grilled meats to the La Unión Seafood Special of fish, shrimp, lobster and squid.

PENÍNSULA DE ZAPATA Punta Perdíz

Carretera de Playa Larga a Playa Girón Km 24 On a patchy section of secluded coastline, this boat-themed restaurant stands out like a sore thumb but serves up some reasonable (if slightly overpriced) seafood dishes and, more notably, crocodile meat. One of the peninsula’s many tour-group stop-offs, the quality of food here is at least as good as that of the local hotel restaurants.

PENÍNSULA DE ZAPATA Rancho Benito

Caleta Buena, Playa Girón Tel (45) 915 589 Some 8 km (5 miles) down a bumpy track beyond the Playa Girón hotel resort is this seafront ranch-style restaurant on a plot of land known as Caleta Buena. It’s a wonderfully secluded and tranquil place for a seafood lunch. The openair grill sits just above a lovely, clear natural pool. The entrance fee to Caleta Buena will be deducted from your bill.

SANTA CLARA El Marino

Carretera Central esq. Ave. Ramón González Tel (42) 205 594 This canteen-like restaurant on a main road is known as a seafood specialist, but in reality there are just as many meat dishes on the limited menu here. The real draw here is the low prices. Though the menu is priced in Cuban pesos, you can pay the equivalent cost in convertibles.

SANTA CLARA La Concha

Carretera Central esq. Danielito Tel (42) 218 124 Consistently recommended by locals as the best state restaurant in the city, this billing is accurate but very much relative to the low standards set by the competition. Here you will find basic pastas, pizzas and reasonable comida criolla (creole food). A large school-style dining room with a tiled mural provides the basic setting. Key to Price Guide see p276 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

SANTA CLARA Los Taínos

Hotel Los Caneyes, Avenida los Eucaliptos y Circunvalación Tel (42) 218 140 The 8 CUC$ buffet in a reconstructed Taíno lodge setting at this hotel is worth the trip to the low hills beyond the southern outskirts of the city. With dishes based around pasta, traditionally prepared meat or plates for vegetarians from the modest salad counter, it offers a selection of food way beyond anything on offer in the city centre.

SANTA CLARA Sabor Latino

Esquerra no.157, e/ Julio Jover y Berenguer Tel (42) 206 539 As the only official sit-down paladar in the city, they can afford to charge a little above the market rate here but it’s worth the extra cost for the finest cooking in the city centre. Thoughtful presentation and extra touches mark out the creole dishes here, for example by adding shrimp and cheese to their lobster dish and pineapple to the chicken.

VARADERO Albacora

Calle 59 y Playa Tel (45) 613 650 One of the better beachfront eateries in the centre of Varadero. This basic outdoor patio with plastic chairs and tables and steps leading onto the sand offers simple, fresh Cuban food under the shade of a couple of trees. The pricier dishes are lobster and a mixed seafood grill, while you can enjoy pork, beef and chicken selections at a quarter of the cost.

VARADERO Chong Kwok

Avenida 1ra esq. 55 Tel (45) 612 460, 613 525 The floor-cushion seating and low tables at this Chinese restaurant are more authentic than the food, but there are at least some chop suey dishes and a choice of stir-fried rice, all of it very reasonably priced. On the menu alongside these are some remarkably Cuban-looking dishes, including grilled lobster at just under 20 CUC$.

VARADERO Dante

Parque Josone, Ave. 1ra, e/ 56 y 58 Tel (45) 667 738 Unusually for an Italian restaurant in Cuba, the pasta dishes here are superior to the pizzas. That said, there are some sauces to be avoided, like the carbonara which has a very odd kick to it, and others which are much more dependable, like the bolognese. Ask for a table on the balcony over the lake for a wonderfully relaxing meal.

VARADERO El Bodegón Criollo

Avenida de Playa esq. 40 Tel (45) 667 784 With more character than most other restaurants in the town, this grey and red fairytale-style cottage with a small collection of intimate spaces has more than a passing resemblance to the famous Bodeguita del Medio in Havana, with walls full of scribbled signatures. Good-quality classic Cuban dishes.

VARADERO Esquina Cuba

Avenida 1ra esq. 36 Tel (45) 614 019 An open-air venue by the side of the road serving standard tasty comida criolla, this place suffers slightly from its unexotic location but regains a little lost ground with the 1950s memorabilia scattered around, including a genuine white and pink Oldsmobile and an old jukebox. Dine à la carte or go for the excellent value all-you-can-eat buffet at 12 CUC$.

VARADERO Guamairé

Avenida 1ra, e/ 26 y 27 Tel (45) 611 893 A humble little wooden bungalow with a veranda facing the road and a set of very reasonably priced comida criolla dishes. Along with lobster, chicken and pork dishes, you can order crocodile steak, a rare dish anywhere in Cuba – Guamairé this is the only place in the town where you can find it.

VARADERO La Fondue (Casa del Queso Cubano)

Avenida 1ra, e/ 62 y 63 Tel (45) 667 747 La Fondue offers a unique menu by Cuban standards, based loosely on French-Swiss cuisine. The simple formula here is to cook everything with cheese. There are also less experimental dishes based on more familiar Cuban recipes. The restaurant itself is in a pleasant roadside building with a Mediterranean villa interior.

VARADERO Mallorca

Avenida 1ra, e/ 61 y 62 Tel (45) 667 746 The reputation of Mallorca as a Spanish restaurant is owed almost exclusively to the fact that its trademark dish is paella, but the rest of the menu is Cuban. The excellent-value paellas come with either vegetables, shrimp, squid, chicken or, for the house special, a mixture of all four. A smart but homely interior in a handsome villa.

VARADERO Pizza Nova

Plaza América, Autopista del Sur Km 7 Tel (45) 668 585 A pizza chain restaurant in a shopping mall might not sound like a great place to eat, but with a lovely view of the sea over tree tops from the balcony, and a good selection of appetizing thin-crust pizzas, this is actually a great option. There’s a decent range of pastas, too, including the experimental Rigatoni à la Vodka.

VARADERO Antigüedades

Avenida 1ra esq. 59 Tel (45) 667 329 The marvellous interior decoration of this seafood specialist is an Aladdin’s Cave of antiques, furniture, pictures and all sorts of curiosities hanging from the walls and ceiling. The cheapest dish at this eye-catching place to eat is 10 CUC$, making it relatively expensive but the quality of food is good.

VARADERO El Retiro

Parque Josone, Ave. 1ra, e/ 56 y 58 Tel (45) 667 316 Housed in what was once the residence of wealthy financiers, there’s still a slight air of class about this place, though the staff are approachable and friendly. The speciality here is lobster, served whole or on skewers, garnished with garlic or lemon or, in the case of the Gran Grillada, cooked and served with shrimp, beef and pork.

VARADERO La Campana

Parque Josone, Ave. 1ra, e/ 56 y 58 Tel (45) 667 224 Inside this restaurant with its rustic interior and large fireplace, there’s a sense of being in an alpine lodge rather than in the middle of Parque Josone, with the sweeping, wooded grounds laid out before it. It’s also one of the better purveyors of authentic creole cooking in Varadero. The house speciality is the Cuban classic, Ropa Vieja (shredded stewed beef).

VARADERO Steak House Toro

Avenida 1ra esq. 25 Tel (45) 667 145 Meat lovers will not be disappointed at this Canadian-Cuban joint venture offering North American-sized steaks. Lying cellar-like, a few feet below street level, this is a stereotypical steak house with a wagon wheel and beer barrel central to the decor. From six-ounce filets to 24-ounce chateaubriand at 38 CUC$, all appetites and wallets are catered for.

VARADERO Las Américas

Mansión Xanadú, Autopista del Sur Km 7 Tel (45) 667 750, 667 877 A high-class establishment in the refined antique-furniture dining rooms of what was once a millionaire’s mansion, the Mansión Xanadú (see p262). Nowadays it’s an exclusive hotel and one of the best restaurants on the whole peninsula, serving Cuban and international haute cuisine and with a fantastic wine list.

CENTRAL CUBA – EAST CAMAGÜEY Don Ronquillo

Ignacio Agramonte no. 406 esq. República Tel (32) 285 239 In the touristy Galería Colonial complex, a bar, shops and cabaret share an immaculately restored colonial residence with this attractive restaurant where you can sample a number of traditional Camagueyan recipes. The local Bistec Mayoral stands out – sautéed kidney served on toast in an onion and red wine sauce, a welcome break from the Cuban norm.

CAMAGÜEY La Campaña de Toledo

Plaza San Juan de Dios Tel (32) 286 812 An 18th-century townhouse typical of the plaza where it’s found, with a large and leafy courtyard out back where there are several tables. Chicken, pork and fish feature on one of the better menus in the city but for something a bit different there’s Boliche Mechado – beef garnished with bacon served with fries and congrí.

SANCTI SPÍRITUS Mesón de la Plaza

Máximo Gómez no.34 y Honorato Tel (41) 285 46 This rustic restaurant reminiscent of a Spanish taberna has long wooden tables with benches, a wooden raftered ceiling with wrought-iron hanging lamps and earthenware bowls at each table. The food is Cuban with a Spanish twist; the house tipple is sangría and there’s a delicious chickpea soup. The selection of main dishes features beef stewed with corn.

TRINIDAD Vía Reale

Rubén Martínez Villena, e/ Piro Guinart y Ciro Redondo Tel (419) 6476 It would be wrong to label Vía Reale an Italian restaurant, but it is the only pizza specialist in Trinidad. A diminutive, canopy-covered patio provides an alternative to the street-side main dining room in what is, by local standards, a run-of-the-mill though well-restored colonial building. Grilled shrimp, lobster and steak dominate the menu.

TRINIDAD Estela

Simón Bolívar no.557, e/ Juan Manuel Márquez y José Mendoza Tel (419) 4329 Though this pleasant backyard paladar may not be the most sophisticated home-run restaurant in the city, many locals regard it as serving the best Cuban food. In the cobbled historic centre with a split-level patio, the ambience is delightfully tranquil. Accompanying the pork, chicken or fish mains are mountainous side orders of viandas, congrí and salad.

TRINIDAD Trinidad Colonial

Maceo esq. Colón Tel (419) 6473 Located in the most aristocratic colonial building in the city to have been converted into a restaurant, here you will find one of Trinidad’s most extensive selections of creole cuisine. Shrimp in hot sauce stands out from the other classic Cuban and creole dishes. Antique dressers and cabinets are dotted about the several grand dining rooms.

TRINIDAD Restaurante de Iberostar

Iberostar Grand Hotel Trinidad, José Martí 262, e/ Lino Pérez y Colón Tel (419) 6073 The finest and most expensive food in the town by a country mile is found in the fantastically plush restaurant at the Grand Hotel Trinidad. The buffet dinner is the biggest treat – an opportunity to feast on international food simply unheard of elsewhere such as beef carpaccio, salade niçoise, serrano ham, smoked salmon and tiramisú. Key to Price Guide see p276 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

EASTERN CUBA BARACOA Duaba

Hotel El Castillo, Loma de Paraíso Tel (21) 451 65 Not to be confused with Finca Duaba in the nearby countryside, this restaurant in the wonderfully located Hotel El Castillo, gazing over the town, is arguably the finest in Baracoa and one of the best places for local variations on traditional Cuban cooking. Among these are chicken with maize and bacon or the fish and coconut speciality, Pescado a la Santa Bárbara.

GUARDALAVACA Pizza Nova

Near Club Amigo Atlántico Guardalavaca hotel, Playa Guardalavaca, Banes Tel (24) 301 37 This pizza chain does a decent job of giving each of its restaurants a look and feel of its own, in this case a smart interior and a broad half-covered outdoor terrace backing onto sweeping, lawns with trees. The usual selection of good-quality, thin-crust pizzas is available as well as numerous pastas and a few Cuban dishes, too.

HOLGUÍN Salón 1720

Frexes esq. Miró Tel (24) 468 150 This standout restaurant in a magnificently refined colonial building offers the tastiest food in Holguín, a mixture of international and Cuban delicacies. The plush surroundings enhance the experience, as do the names of the dishes, such as Tesoros del Mar (Sea Treasures), a lobster, shrimp and fish combination, or Tres Reyes (Three Kings) a mixed meat grill.

SANTIAGO DE CUBA La Taberna de Dolores

Aguilera esq. Mayía Rodríguez, Plaza Dolores Tel (22) 623 913 The sombre, shadowy interior lends this place a distinct character. Downstairs is a bar and café from where a hidden staircase leads up to the restaurant on the first floor. The balcony seats, looking down on the Plaza Dolores, are the nicest place to sit and order from the limited pork and chicken menu. Prices are officially in pesos, but check to be sure.

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Don Antonio

José Antonio Saco, e/ Porfirio Valiente y Mayía Rodríguez, Plaza Dolores Tel (22) 652 307 Classic comida criolla in the smartest restaurant on Plaza Dolores, with wide-open shutters providing views across the square from this single-floor colonial building. Compared to its neighbours, this joint also has the best selection of dishes. As an alternative to the usual lobster, pork and chicken offerings, there is a tasty beef casserole.

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Las Gallegas

San Basilio no. 305 altos, e/ General Lacret y Hartmann Tel (22) 624 700 Just round the corner from Parque Céspedes is this first-floor paladar in a colonial house, now divided into apartments. The house special is lamb in a subtle tomato sauce flavoured with spices and beer, and fried chicken and a couple of pork variations can also be found on the menu. The best tables are squeezed onto the narrow balcony.

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Salón Tropical

Fernández Marcané no. 310, e/ 9 y 10 Tel (22) 641 161 The tables at this impressive, professionally run paladar in suburban Santiago occupy a plant-filled rooftop patio from where there are splendid views of the city; there’s also a cosy indoor dining room. The unusually long menu includes seven different pork variations, a couple of liver dishes, fish and chicken, all cooked with care and subtly garnished.

SANTIAGO DE CUBA El Morro

Carretera al Morro Km 7.5 Tel (22) 691 576 This outdoor restaurant, nesting on the edge of green cliffs by the fortress of the same name, has a truly spectacular setting outside Santiago at the mouth of the bay. It’s worth eating here for the superb mountain and sea views alone. There’s a wide choice of seafood, chicken and pork and there are 10 CUC$ three-course set meals.

SANTIAGO DE CUBA Zunzún

Avenida Manduley no.159 esq. 7, Reparto Vista Alegre Viejo Tel (22) 641 528 On a broad, tree-lined avenue, in what used to be a very rich neighbourhood before the Revolution, is the 1940s mansion housing this classy restaurant. Divided into five compact and well appointed dining rooms, the same restraint shown in the decor characterizes the menu which has just six main courses, all original takes on traditional creole cooking.

SANTIAGO DE CUBA La Casona

Meliá Santiago de Cuba, Calle M e/ 4ta y Avenida Las Américas Tel (22) 687 070 If you’re looking for good-quality international food, head for La Casona, the buffet restaurant in the city’s most luxurious hotel. In a huge dining hall, the choice is outstanding, with everything from raw meats ready to be cooked to your taste to a well-stocked salad bar. The buffet costs 20 CUC$, excluding drinks. You pay in advance at the hotel reception.

SANTIAGO DE CUBA La Isabelica

Meliá Santiago de Cuba, Calle M e/ 4ta y Avenida Las Américas Tel (22) 687 070 An intimate and formal little comida criolla restaurant on the edge of the central garden court in the Meliá Santiago de Cuba. Despite the high prices at the top end of the menu, you don’t actually have to break the bank to eat here. The curried chicken breast with plum and pineapple, for example, is only just over the 10 CUC$ mark.

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An outlet of the hard-currency Tiendas Panamericanas chain

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Arroyo (Manglar and Matadero), Havana. Tue–Sat, Sun am.

A SOUVENIR IN FRONT OF THE CAPITOLIO

Photographer with his old Polaroid camera

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A traditional son band performing in a Trinidad street

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The Casa de la Cultura in Pinar del Río/9145=4,58/:9

',5835,954- /4=./).:=59/4-+896/::.+3 9+2<+9'-'/49:+').'45:.+8/4 )8+':/<+/368536:;<+89+ ".+ Casa de la Cultura in Nueva Gerona/9')+4:8+,58 :.+25)'23;9/)'4**'4)+ ,583145=4'9 ;4/7;+:5:.+92'*+2' ;<+4:;* 4* '9";4'9.'9 '4'44;'2Jornada Cucalambé

One of the Tropicana dancers in a typically exotic costume

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DIRECTORY THEATRE El Mambí Calle Bartolomé Masó 303, Santiago de Cuba.

Grupo Teatro Escambray La Macagua, Manicuragua. Tel (42) 49 1393.

José María Heredia Ave. las Américas, Santiago de Cuba. Tel (22) 64 3178.

José Martí Calle Félix Peña 313, Santiago de Cuba. Tel (22) 62 0507.

Teatro la Caridad

FOLK & TRADITIONAL MUSIC Ballet Folklórico Cotumba

Casa de la Cultural, Zerquera esq. Ernest Valdes.

Club Benny Moré

Santiago

Avenida 54 2907, e/ 29 y 31, Cienfuegos. Tel (43) 55 1105.

Heredia 208. Tel (22) 62 3943.

Serafín Sánchez 663, e/ Paseo y Narciso López, Guantánamo. Tel (21) 32 5297.

Cabildo Carabalí Izuama Calle Pío Rosado, e/ San Mateo y San Antonio, Santiago de Cuba. Calle 24 esq. 37, Nueva Gerona. Tel (46) 32 3591

Padre Valencia 64, Camagüey. Tel (32) 29 3048.

Máximo Gómez 108, Pinar del Río. Tel (82) 75 2324.

Teatro Papalote

Calixto García e/ Crombet y Gulo, Guantánamo. Tel (21) 32 7266.

Calle Saco 415, Santiago de Cuba. Tel (22) 626888

BALLET & CLASSICAL MUSIC Ballet Folkórico Babul Paseo 855 e/ Cuartel y Ahogados, Guantánamo. Tel (21) 32 7940.

Ballet Folkórico de Camagüey Calle Pobre, esq. Triana, Camagüey. Tel (32) 29 3048.

Sala de Conciertos Dolores Aguilera, esq. Mayía Rodríguez, Santiago de Cuba. Tel (22) 65 3857.

Máximo Gómez 108. Tel (82) 75 2324.

Calle Juan Manuel Marquéz, e/ Bolívar y Menéndez. Tel (419) 3414.

Teatro Principal

Van Troi/Cabildo Teatral Santiago

Pinar del Río

Calle Maceo 174.

British West Indian Welfare Center

Casa de la Cultura

Plaza Martí, Cienfuegos. Tel (43) 51-3361.

Calle 37 e/ Av. 4 y 6. Tel (43) 55 2320.

Casa de la Música de Trinidad

Casa de la Cultura

Teatro Tomás Terry

Holguín

Calle Saco 170, Santiago de Cuba. Tel (22) 62 5860.

Calle Marta Abreu, e/ Máximo Gómez y Lorda, Santa Clara. Tel (422) 20 5548.

Calle Daoíz y Ayuntamiento, Matanzas. Tel (45) 24 4672.

Casa de la Música de Cienfuegos

Casa de la Música

Conjunto Folklórico de Oriente Calle Hartmann 407, Santiago de Cuba. Tel (22) 62 0922.

Jornada Cucalambé Ciego de Ávila. Tel (31) 47 770.

Museo del Carnaval Heredia 304, Santiago de Cuba. Tel (22) 62 6955

Club Nocturno Havana Club Centro Comercial Copey, Calle 62 final, Varadero. Tel (45) 66 7500.

Cueva del Pirata Autopista Sur, Km 11, Varadero. Tel (45) 66 7751.

Mambo Club Club Amigo Varadero. Tel (45) 66 8565.

Palacio de la Rumba Ave. las Américas, Varadero. Tel (45) 66 8210.

Patio de Artex Heredia 304, Santiago de Cuba. Tel (22) 65 4814.

Sala de Fiestas La Iris Aguilera 617, e/ Plácido y Monseñor Bernada, Santiago de Cuba. Tel (22) 65 4910.

Tropicana de Matanzas

Palenque de los Congos Reales

Autopista Varadero Km 4.5. Tel (45) 26 5555.

Echerri 146, esq. Jesús Menéndez, Trinidad. Tel (419) 4512.

Tropicana de Santiago

NIGHTCLUBS, CABARETS & DISCOTHEQUES

Autopista Nacional Km 1.5. Tel (22) 68 7020.

CASAS DE LA TROVA

Cabaret Continental

Baracoa

Hotel Varadero Internacional, Varadero. Tel (45) 66 7038.

Calle Maceo 149.

Teatro Heredia

Cabaret San Pedro del Mar

Ave. las Américas, esq. Ave. de los Desfiles, Santiago de Cuba. Tel (22) 64 3134.

Carretera del Morro Km 7.5, Santiago de Cuba. Tel (22) 69 1287.

Bayamo Calle Martí esq. Maceo. Tel (23) 42 5673

Sancti Spíritus

Casa de las Tradiciónes Calle Rab 154., Santiago Tel (22) 65 3892.

Trinidad Calle Echerría 29. Tel (419) 6445.

CULTURAL CENTRES Ateneo Cultural Félix Peña e/ Castillo Duany y Diego Palacios. Tel (22) 65 1969.

Centro Africano Fernando Ortíz Manduley esq. Calle 5, Santiago de Cuba. Tel (22) 64 2487.

Casa del Caribe Calle 13 154, Santiago de Cuba. Tel (22) 64 2285.

UNEAC de Holguín Libertad 148. Tel (24) 46 4066.

CHILDREN Acuario Cayo Naranjo Carretera a Guardalavaca. Tel (24) 30132.

Delfinario de Rancho Luna Carretera a Pasacaballo. Tel (43) 54 8120.

Delfinario de Varadero Autopista Km 11. Varadero. Tel (45) 66 8031.

Teatro Guiñol Martí 119, e/ Libertad y Maceo. Tel (24) 42 7490.

Camagüey

Todo En Uno

Calle Cisneros y Martí. Tel (32) 29 1357.

Autopista Sur y Calle 54. Varadero.

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The Cuban national women’s volleyball team in action

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DIRECTORY MULTI-PURPOSE SPORTS ARENAS Coliseo de la Ciudad Deportiva Ave. de Rancho Boyeros y Vía Blanca, Havana Tel (7) 577 047, 545 020.

Estadio Panamericano Carretera de Cojímar, km 1.5. Tel (7) 954 140.

Sala Polivalente Ramón Fonst Ave. Rancho Boyeros y Bruzón, Havana. Map 2 E4. Tel (7) 8820 000.

BASEBALL Estadio Latinoamericano Calle Zequeira 312, El Cerro, Havana. Tel (7) 8706 526, (7) 870 6576.

BOXING Sala Kid Chocolate Paseo de Martí (Prado) y Brasil, Havana. Map 4 D3. Tel (7) 8628 634. Cuba’s national baseball team during a game

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Beach volleyball at a tourist village on Cayo Largo

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Enjoying the sea on a catamaran hired from a tourist marina

SAILING AND MOTORBOATS ' -*23.(32/.2(3(.- 33'$ $-31 -"$3.3'$4+%.% $7(".4! , *$2 -(#$ + 23.//(-&.%%/.(-3%.18 "'32 -#2 (+(-&!. 32'$3.41(23 , 1(- 2, -8.%6'("' !$+.-&3.3'$Marinas Marlin"' (- /1.5(#$ 2$1($2.%% "(+(3($2 -#2$15("$2(-"+4#(-&,.3.1 !. 32 -#" 3 , 1 -2%.1'(1$ -#8 "'3$7"412(.-2 .232 (+(-&(2#.-$ 1.4-# 3'$ 1"'(/(;+ &.#$+.2 - 11$.22.43'.%3'$, (- + -#'$!$232$ 2.-%.1 2 (+(-&(2%1.,$"$,!$13. /1(+!$" 42$3'$"+(, 3$(2 ,(+#3'$6(-#2 1$-.33.. 231.-& -#23.1,2(-%1$04$-3 .6$5$14! (22411.4-#$# !8&$-$1 ++831 -04(+6 3$12 -#3'$1$ 1$/+$-38.%! 82 (%2'$+3$1(2-$$#$#

FISHING

CYCLING

(2'(-&$-3'42( 2326(++!$ (-3'$(1$+$,$-3(-4! '$-.13'6$23$1-". 23(2 , 15$++.42%.1#$$/2$ %(2'(-&6'$1$3'$" 3"',(&'3 (-"+4#$26.1#%(2'34- .1 , "*$1$+6'(+$%(2'24"' 2 3 1/.-" -!$" 4&'3.%%3'$ 2.43'$1-". 23 (2'(-&(2.%3$-.-$.%3'$ , -8 "3(5(3($2/1.5(#$#!8 , 1(- 2 -#'.+(# 85(++ &$2 .+(# 823 (+.1, #$%.1 %(2'$1,$- 1$.1& -(9$# !83'$Havanatur Pesca y Caza".,/ -8 - 83'$ 1(- $,(-&6 8(23'$ 5$-4$%.13'$1-$23$,(-& 6 8-3$1- 3(.- + 1+(- (2'(-&.41- ,$-3 ".,/$ 3(3(.-1$2$15$#%.1$7/$13, 1+(- %(2'$1,$-'$.1(&(- +14+$2 6$1$$23 !+(2'$#!83'$ ,$1(" - 43'.16'.' # / 22(.-%.1#$$/2$ %(2'(-& '$%1$2'6 3$1+ *$2 -# 1(5$12 1.4-#3'$(2+ -# 1$ 5$18&..#%.131.43%(2'(-&

.41(-&3'$(2+ -#!8 !("8"+$(2 -$7"$++$-36 8 3.$-).83'$+ -#2" /$ -# ,$$3+." +/$./+$'$ !("8"+$2.%%$1$#%.11$-33. 3.41(232!8+ 1&$1'.3$+2 -# ,.23'.+(# 85(++ &$2 1$.% !$33$104 +(383' -3'.2$3'$ +." +2' 5$3.42$8"+(-& (2-.3424 ++8# -&$1.42 / 13("4+ 1+8.432(#$3'$3.6-2 6'$1$31 %%("(2+(&'3 $6 1$ '.6$5$1.%/.3'.+$2(-3'$ 1. #.134- 3$+83'$1$ 1$ /+$-38.%1. #2(#$6.1*2'./2 6'$1$1$/ (12" - !$" 11($#.43

(*$22'.4+# +6 82!$ +."*$#.1+$%3(-24/$15(2$# /+ "$23'$%32 1$".,,.- -#1$,$,!$13.6$ 1 '$+,$3.4-3 (-!(*$2 1$ !$23%.11.4&'3$11 (-

TENNIS AND GOLF

+,.23 ++3'$'.+(# 8 5(++ &$2 -#+ 1&$'.3$+ ".,/+$7$2' 5$3$--(2".4132 .-1$2(#$-32424 ++8, *$ 42$.%3'$,!8/ 8(-& %$$ '$(2+ -# +2.' 236. &..#&.+%".412$2 3'$-(-$ Hikers on a path near Topes de '.+$ Club de Golf Habana Collantes (see p187) -#3'$ '.+$Club de Golf Las Américas 3 1 #$1. HIKING, EXCURSIONS '$2/.13(2(-"1$ 2(-&+8 /./4+ 1 -#3'$1$ 1$/+ -2 AND BIRDWATCHING 3.+ 8.43$5$-,.1$&.+% 1$**(-&.-'.12$! "*(2 ".412$2(-3'$, (-3.41(23 -.3'$15$18$-).8 !+$ 1$2.132(-3'$-$ 1%4341$ 6 83.2$$3'$4! - + -#2" /$- 5 - 3'$ .-+8'.12$1(#(-&"$-31$(2(- 104$$-(- !43 '.3$+2(-3'$, (-1$2.132 $".3.41(23"$-31$2 -# " ,/(-&2(3$2" -/1.5(#$ '.12$2 26$++ 2.1& -(9$# $7"412(.-2 .3'$7/$1($-"$# -#(-$7/$1($-"$#1(#$12 1$ " 3$1$#%.1 -3(+1$"$-3+83'$.-+8 .//.134-(3($2%.1'(*(-&: $(3'$16(3'.%%("( +&4(#$2.1 .-6$++, 1*$#31 (+2:6$1$ (-3'$ 1$ 2.%(= +$2./$2 #$.++ -3$2 -#($11 $231 %1., +3.#$ 1 -). Varadero’s golf course, close to the sea 3. 24$5 2.6$5$1(-

1$"$-38$ 12$".3.41(23 /1(-"(/+$2' 5$!$$- 2/1$ #(-&3. ++/ 132.%4! -#/1.&1 ,,$2' 5$!$$- #$5(2$#3." 3$1%.1 6(#$1 1 -&$.%(-3$1$23224"' 2 2/$+$.+.&8!.3 -8 -#!(1# 6 3"'(-&'$$-<-24+ #$ / 3 (2 / 13("4+ 1+8&..# 1$ %.1 !(1#$122(-"$3'$, 12'+ -#

$".2823$,(2 ' 5$-%.1 '4-#1$#2.%#(%%$1$-3!(1# 2/$"($2(&1 3.18!(1#2, 8 +2.!$2$$-(-2$ 2.- .1(-%.1, 3(.-".-3 "3 Gaviota Tours -#Ecotur 3'$+ 33$1.1& -(9 3(.- .5$12$$23'$4/*$$/ -# (,/1.5$,$-3.%3'$31 (+2 -# +2. 11 -&$2- 341$ 3.412 -#/1.&1 ,,$2

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avanatur Pesca y Caza

.%%$122.,$.1& -(9$# '.+(# 823' 3(-"+4#$ - $+$,$-3.%'4-3(-&

Horse riding among the mogotes in the Valle de Viñales

DIRECTORY DIVING Acua Ave Kawama 201, e/ 2 y 3, Varadero. Tel (45) 668 063.

Carisub Ave 5, esq. 258, Santa Fe, Playa, Havana. Tel (7) 204 6342.

Shark’s Friends Hotel Cuatro Vientos, Playa Santa Lucía, Camagüey. Tel (32) 336 317. Fax (32) 336 255.

SAILING AND MOTORBOATS Marea del Portillo Marea del Portillo, Pilón. Tel (23) 597 195.

Centro de Buceo Jardines del Rey

Marina Cayo CocoGuillermo

Villa Cojímar, Cayo Guillermo. Tel (33) 301 738.

Cayo Coco, Archipiélago Jardines del Rey. Tel (33) 301 738. Fax (33) 301 738.

Centro de Buceo María La Gorda La Bajada, Pinar del Río. Tel (82) 778 131.

Cubanacán Nautica Calle 184 n. 123, Reparto Flores, Havana. Tel (7) 336 675. Fax (7) 337 520.

El Colony Carretera de Siguanea, km 41, Isla de la Juventud. Tel (46) 398 181. Fax (46) 398 420.

Marina Internacional Vita

GOLF

Bahía de Vita, Holguín. Tel (24) 304 45.

Club de Golf Habana

Marina Santa Lucía

Carretera de Vento km 8, Capdevila. Tel (7) 338 919. Fax (7) 338 820.

Playa Santa Lucía, Camagüey. Tel (32) 336 317.

Marina Santiago Ave. 1, Punta Gorda, Santiago de Cuba. Tel (226) 691 446.

Marina Tarará Via Blanca km. 18, Playa Tarará, Havana. Tel (7) 971 462.

Club de Golf Las Américas Ave. Las Américas, Varadero. Tel (45) 667 788. Fax (45) 668 180.

Marina Trinidad Carretera María Aguilar, Playa Ancón. Tel (419) 6205.

TREKKING AND BIRDWATCHING

Marina Dársena Varadero

Ecotur

Marina Chapelin Carretera de las Morlas, km 21, Varadero. Tel (45) 667 550.

Carretera de las Morlas km 21, Varadero. Tel (45) 667 755.

Marina Cayo Largo Cayo Largo. Tel (45) 248 384.

Marina Guardalavaca Playa Guardalavaca, Holguín. Tel (24) 301 85.

Marina Hemingway Ave. 5 y 248, Santa Fe, Playa, Havana. Tel (7) 2041 150.

FISHING AND HUNTING Havanatur Pesca y Caza Edificio Sierra Maestra, Calle 1, e/ 0 y 2, Playa, Havana. Tel (7) 203 9783.

Ave Boyeros 116 esq. Santa Catalina, Havana. Tel (7) 8310 707. Fax (7) 8317 575.

Gaviota Tours Edificio La Marina, level 3, Ave del Puerto 102 e/ Jústiz y Obrapía, Havana. Map 4 F2. Tel (7) 666 777.

SURVIVAL GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 298307 TRAVEL INFORMATION 308315

! " " !

17+(/$67 <($568%$+$60$'( 7,21$67285,672)),&(63529,',1*35$& *5($7675,'(6,17+(),(/'2)7285,60 7,&$/,1)250$7,21$1'2)7(1$%22.,1* $1'&$112:3529,'(9,6,7256:,7+ 6(59,&(2:(9(5$/7+28*+8%$1 02'(51,17(51$7,21$//(9(/)$&,/,7,(67 7285,6723(5$7256$5(9(5<*22'9,6,7256 ,612:3266,%/()257285,67672 67,//1(('72%($'$37$%/($1' 029($%28708&+025(($6 )/(;,%/( +(3$&(2)/,)(+(5( ,/<217+(,6/$1'$/7+28*+ ,66/2:$6,67+(%85($8 $'9$1&(3/$11,1*,667,// &5$&<62%(35(3$5('72 ( 6 6 ( 1 7 , $ / ( 6 3 ( & , $ / / < $ 6 :$67($&(57$,1$028172) 5(*$5'675$163257$5281'7+( Logo of the Cuban 7,0(:+(175<,1*72*(77+,1*6 ,6/$1'1())(&7,9($3352$&+ '21(#+$7(9(5+$33(1675< Tourist Board ,672&217$&721(2)7+(0$1< $1'5(0$,1237,0,67,&#,7+ 75$9(/$*(1&,(6,18%$:+,&+0$< $%,72)3$7,(1&($1'$/272)3(56(9(5 +$9(7+(,52:12)),&(625%(%$6(',1 $1&( $67+(<6$<,1 7+(0$-25+27(/6 +(/$77(5$/62)81& 8%$ $62/87,21&$1$/:$<6%()281' Main Immigration Office Calle 20 e/ Ave 3 y 5, Miramar, Havana.

CUSTOMS INFORMATION (6,'(67+(,53(5621$/ %(/21*,1*67285,676$5( $//2:('727$.(,1728%$ 1(:2586('2%-(&76:+26( 29(5$//9$/8(,612025(7+$1 3/86 .*

/%2) 0(',&,1(6,17+(,525,*,1$/ 3$&.$*,1* 0$//$33/,$1&(6 68&+$6(/(&75,&5$=256$5( $//2:('%871272%-(&7668&+ $67(/(3+21($33$5$78625)$; 0$&+,1(6 7,6)25%,''(172 One of the Playas del Este at Havana, crowded with tourists and locals ,03257)5(6+)22'68&+$6 WHEN TO GO 9,6$,6$<(//2:3,(&(2)3$3(5 )58,7$1'3/$1762)$1<.,1' $6:(//$6(;3/26,9(6'58*6 :+,&+<28+$9(72),//,1:,7+ 3$57)520(37(0%(572 $1'32512*5$3+,&0$7(5,$/ <2853(5621$/'$7$$1'7+( 817(56:,7+),5($5060867 29(0%(535,0(+855,&$1( 1$0(2)7+(3/$&(:+(5(<28 35(6(177+(,53(50,76 0217+6$1'8/<$1'8*867 $5(3/$11,1*7267$< :+(17+(7255,'+($7&$1 ",6$6$5(9$/,')25 $7&867206 21(0217+$1'&$1 0$.(7285,1*48,7(7,5,1* )<28,17(1'72 7$.(025(7+$1 81/(66<2863(1'<285(17,5( %((;7(1'(')25 +2/,'$<$77+(6($6,'($1< $127+(5'$<6 ,1 &,*$562872)7+( 7,0(2)<($5,6*22')25$9,6,7 $9$1$*2727+( &28175<<280867 728%$7,63266,%/(725(/$; Main Immigration %($%/(72352'8&( Office127+(5 217+(%($&+$//<($55281' $5(&(,37'(&/$5,1* &,7,(6<280867 7+(,5385&+$6($7$ 7+$1.6727+(0,/'&/,0$7( +(%(673(5,2')259,6,76 *2727+(/2&$/ 67$7(5816+237+(,5 ,6 (&(0%(572$5&+:+(1 ,5(&&,?1529,1&,$/ 9$/8(0867127 7+(5($5(025(&8/785$/(9(176 '(10,*5$&,?1) (;&((' $1'7+(&/,0$7(,6:$50 +2:(9(5<28$5( &219(57,%/(3(626) :,7+287%(,1*81%($5$%/( *2,1*728%$21 <287$.(287025( %86,1(662572:25. 7+$1 <280$< VISAS AND PASSPORTS $6$-2851$/,67<28 :(//1(('723$< 6+28/'$33/<727+( '87<:+(1<28*(7 Brochure 2(17(58%$8523($1 8%$1(0%$66<25 illustrating customs +20( ",6,7256&$1 7$.(12025(7+$1 75$9(//(560867+$9($9$/,' &2168/$7(,1<285 regulations )285%277/(62)580 3$663257$5(78517,&.(7$1'$ +20(&28175<:(//,1 25/,48(852872)7+(&28175< 9,6$ ,668(' $'9$1&()25$63(&,$/9,6$ 125'(572(;3257:25.62) %<$8%$1&2168/$7(257+( 25 !3$663257+2/'(56 $577+$7$5(3$572)7+(1$7,21$/ 75$9(/$*(1&<257+($,5/,1(<28 63(&,$/5(*8/$7,216$33/< %28*+7<2857,&.(7)520 +,6

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2)),&,$/$87+25,=$7,21)5207+( (*,6752$&,21$/'(,(1(6 8/785$/(6'(/,1,67(5,2 '(8/785$ 92,'385&+$6,1*,7(06 0$'()520(1'$1*(5('63(&,(6 68&+$672572,6(6+(//25%$*625 %(/760$'()520121)$50(' 5(37,/(6.,16 +(6($5(&29(5(' 81'(57+(219(17,2121 17(51$7,21$/ 5$'(,1 1'$1*(5('3(&,(6 +(,03257$1'(;32572) 9$&&,1$7(''20(67,&$1,0$/6 ,6$//2:('

Rum for sale in a tienda, four per person for export

LANGUAGES +(2)),&,$//$1*8$*(,1 8%$,6$67,/,$13$1,6+ :+,&+,6632.(1:,7+$ ',67,1&7,9(/2&$/,1)/(&7,21 $1'92&$%8/$5<

1*/,6+,6632.(1)$,5/< :,'(/<,1$9$1$$1',1 7+(0$,1+27(/6$1'5(62576 FORMS OF GREETING +(0267&20021*5((7,1* ,18%$,6$.,66217+( &+((.:+,/(6+$.,1*+$1'6 ,6&20021$021*0(121/< ,1)250$/&,5&8067$1&(6 7,632/,7(7286(3523(57,7/(6 :+(163($.,1*728%$16 > (1*,1((5 $1' +(:25' &205$'( ,612786('$608&+$6,721&( :$6$1',1$1<&$6(,686(' 21/<$021*8%$1625$77+( 9(5<0267:,7+)25(,*1(56 :+2$5(3$572)92/817((5 25*$1,=$7,216217+(,6/$1'

&+,9$/5<$5,78$/(9(1,),7,6 127$/:$<6(;35(66(':,7+ +(026768,7$%/(&/27+,1* *22'7$67(1$1<&$6(7+(6( .,1'62)&200(1766+28/' )257285,676,6/,*+7$1' *(1(5$//<&$68$/$77,5(17+( 127%(0,6,17(535(7('12 :,17(5$&2772125:22//(1 5($&7,21,66(5,286/< 6:($7(5,686()8/,17+( (;3(&7('25$77+( (9(1,1*$1'0$<%( 9(5<0267$60,/( 86()8/$727+(57,0(6 #20(175$9(//,1* 2)<($5,13/$&(6:,7+ $/21(6+28/'127 $,5&21',7,21,1* (;3(5,(1&( :$7(53522)0$<&20( 352%/(06$/7+28*+ ,1+$1'<$//<($5 7+(<0$<%(2%/,*('72 '($/:,7+)5(48(172))(56 5281'%(&$86( 2)$66,67$1&()5200(1 2)7+(7523,&$/ 6+2:(56 81+$76 +(%(67:$<72387$1 $5(5(&200(1'(' (1'7281'(6,5(' 723527(&77+(6.,1 )/,57$7,21:,7+287 Two tourists in )5207+(%851,1*681 2))(1',1*,66,03/<72 casual summer clothes 6$<7+$7<28$5( ;&(37)25(9(1,1*6 287$7&$%$5(76$1' 0$55,('7+,66+28/' 1,*+7&/8%67+(5(,6868$//< %((128*+)2502670(1 121((')25(9(1,1*'5(66 727$.(7+(+,17$1'/($9( 2:(9(58%$16'2 <28$/21( $335(&,$7((/(*$1&($1' HITCH-HIKING &/($1/,1(6625$)250$/ 0((7,1*25,17(59,(:0(1 +(/$&.2))8(/$1' 6+28/'127:($56+2576 25 6+,576%8775286(56$1' &216(48(176&$5&,7<2) $/,*+76+,57,167($'$1' 38%/,&75$163257,15(&(17 :20(16+28/':($5$'5(66 <($56+$6)25&('8%$1672 25$6.,57$1'%/286(%87 5(625772+,7&++,.,1* 127+,1*7225(9($/,1*

%27+,172:1$1',1 7+(&28175<9(5<21(+,7&+ +,.(6<281*$1'2/'%87,7 LOCAL CUSTOMS ,61(9(5&203/(7(/<5(/,$%/( 8%$,6$72/(5$17&28175< 78'(176620(7,0(6+$9(72 :$/.)250,/(6$1'0,/(672 %87$77,78'(6$5(67,//5$7+(5 *(7727+(,56&+22/6 &216(59$7,9(8',60$1' )<28$5('5,9,1*$&$5 723/(66681%$7+,1*$5(127 5(0(0%(57+$73,&.,1*83 $//2:('210267%($&+(6 +,7&++,.(56,69(5<08&+ (63,7(7+(0$&+2 75$',7,216,18%$7+(7$%22 $335(&,$7('%<8%$16,6 &21&(51,1*+2026(;8$/,7< *(1(5$//<127'$1*(5286 +$69,578$//<',6$33($5(' $1'&$13529,'($1(;&(//(17 3529,'('7+$7&200216(16( 23325781,7<720$.()5,(1'6 $1'02'(67<$5(5(63(&7(' 8%$16$/:$<63,&.837+(,5 8%$10(1)((/9,578$//< )(//2:&28175<0(1%87,) 2%/,*('723$<&203/,0(176 7+(<2))(5$)25(,*1(5$5,'( 7+(<0$<%(),1('%<32/,&( 72:20(13$66,1*%<217+( 81/(667+(<+$9($3(50,7 675((7 ,7,6$/0267$)2502) WHAT TO WEAR

Hitch-hiking, often the only alternative to walking on a country road

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JINETERISMO

ELECTRICAL ADAPTORS

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CUBAN LAW 47*.,3;.8.94782&>+.3).9 :8*+:194034<9-&9.3 :'&(&25.3,&3)81**5.3, .381**5.3,'&,8439-*'*&(- 47.3&7*&834985*(.+.(&11> :8*)&8&(&25.3,8.9*.8 897.(91>+47'.))*3 &33&'.82&>'*4++*7*) 439-*897**9474:98.)*& ).8(4':95:7(-&8.3,*;*3 &9.3>&24:394+2&7./:&3& .8.11*,&1&3)(4:1)1*&)94 .22*).&9**=5:18.43+742 9-*(4:397>

Plaque at entrance to the Colonial Art Museum, Sancti Spíritus

CUBAN TIME

Tourist brochures and maps published by Ediciones GEO

:'&.8+.;*-4:78'*-.3) 7**3<.(-*&3!.2* !1.0*9-*" *&89(4&89 &3).39-*8:22*79-*7*.8 )&>1.,-98&;.3,9.2**=&(91> &8.3:745*

TOURIST INFORMATION 3&119-*-49*189-*7*&7* 89&9*7:394:7.89':7*&:=8:(- &8:'&9:7&;&3&9:747 :'&3&(C34++*7.3,'&8.( .3+472&9.439.(0*9'440.3, &3)97.58&58,:.)*8&3) '74(-:7*8&7*&184&;&.1&'1* &99-*8*)*808.3&.754798&3) 2&/47(.9.*8!-*:'&3 5:'1.8-*7).(.43*8574 ):(*85&79.(:1&71>,44)2&58 DISABLED TRAVELLERS 31>2&/47&.754798-49*18 &3)7*89&:7&398-&;* <-**1(-&.7&((*88+479-* ).8&'1*)4<*;*7& 574,7&22*.8:3)*7<&>94 ,7&):&11>&))8:(-+&(.1.9.*8 .3&.754798&3)89&9.4385:'1.( ':.1).3,82:8*:284++.(*8 &3)897**98 OPENING HOURS 472&1<470.3,-4:7843 <**0)&>8&7*+742 &294 52<-.1*'&30845*3&9

&2&3)(148*&952 :8*:245*3.3,-4:78 ;&7>':9.3,*3*7&19-*>&7* +742&74:3)&294 52 <-.1*43 :3)&>2:8*:28&7* 45*3431>-&1+&)&>:8*:2 -4:78(&3'*:357*).(9&'1*84 .+&;.8.9.8.25479&3994>4:.9 .8'*89949*1*5-43*&-*&) 3*397>+**.8&1<&>8 (-&7,*)&92:8*:28-.1)7*3 5&>-&1+57.(*:'&385&>.3 3&9.43&1&3)94:7.898.3 (43;*79.'1*5*8483&;*7&,* 9-**397&3(*+**.8 A(43;*7 9.'1*5*848!-*8&2*&24:39 2&>'*(-&7,*)+475*72.88.43 949&0*5-4948.32:8*:28

DIRECTORY EMBASSIES United Kingdom Calle 34 No. 702–4, esq. Ave. 7, Miramar, Playa, Havana. Tel (7) 2041 771, 2041 049. Fax (7) 2048 104. www.britishembassy.gov.uk/cuba

Canada Calle 30 No. 518, esq. Ave. 7, Miramar, Playa, Havana. Tel (7) 2042 516. Fax (7) 2042 044. www.havana.gc.ca

USA Special Interest Section, Calle Calzada, esq. L, Vedado, Havana. Map 2 E1. Tel (7) 833 3551-59. Fax (7) 833 1084. http://havana.usinterests section.gov

TOURIST BUREAU Ministry of Tourism Calle 3rd y F, Vedado, Havana. Map 1 C3. www.cubatravel.cu Tel (7) 832 7535. Fax (7) 551 923.

WEBSITES General www.cuba.com www.dtcuba.com www.cubaupdate.org www.cubanow.net

Cuban Culture www.cubanculture.com www.afrocubaweb.com www.orishanet.com

In Spanish www.cubasi.cu www.cubahora.co.cu

! !

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A fire engine at Matanzas

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Road sign indicating a dangerous stretch of road

ROAD SAFETY !-*7*&7*3499-&92&3> (&78.3:'&*;*39-4:,- 97&++.(.8.3(7*&8.3,$-.1* )7.;.3,.39-*(.9.*8<&9(-4:9 +47(>(1.898<-4)4349&1<&>8 4'8*7;*97&++.(7*,:1&9.438!-* ,7*&9*89549*39.&1)&3,*78 <-.1*97&;*11.3,4374&)8&3) 24947<&>89-74:,-9-* (4:397>8.)*&7* 9-*&3.2&18,7&?.3,439-* 8.)*4+9-*74&)&3)9-* 7&.1<&>(7488.3,8<.9-4:9 ,&9*8!-*74&)8:7+&(*.8 4+9*3':25><.9-842*9.2*8 )**5549-41*88485**)8 8-4:1)'*0*59)4<3 $-*3.97&.38+478*;*7&1 )&>8.3&74<9-*74&)82&> *&8.1>'*(42*+144)*)

A traffic policeman

THEFT AND LOST PROPERTY !47*54799-*1488479-*+9 4+5*7843&1)4(:2*398 &3)'*143,.3,8*.9-*7+.3)& 541.(*2&3<-48-4:1)9&0* >4:949-*3*&7*89541.(* 89&9.4347&80+47).7*(9.438 3(*9-*7*'*57*5&7*)+47& 143,<&.9942&0*>4:77*5479 NATURAL DISASTERS !-*,7*&9*893&9:7&1)&3,*7.3 :'&.89-*5488.'.1.9>4+'*.3, (&:,-9.3&-:77.(&3*:77.(&3* 8*&8437:38+742:3*9-74:,- 4;*2'*7!-*&:9:23 2439-8&7*<-*3-:77.(&3*8 &7*24891.0*1><.9-2489 4((:7.3,.3(94'*74<&)&>8 -:77.(&3*8&7*+47*(&89<*11.3 &);&3(*1*&;.3,51*39>4+ 9.2*+47&)*6:&9*8*(:7.9> 2*&8:7*8849-*7.80.3;41;*) 8-4:1)349'*9-&9,7*&9 -4:1)&-:77.(&3*4((:7+41 14<9-*.3897:(9.438,.;*3'> -49*189&++%4:<.11574'&'1> '*941)94<&.9.39-*-49*1 :39.1.95&88*8&3)&80*)94 0**5&<&>+742<.3)4<8

DIRECTORY EMERGENCY NUMBERS Ambulance Havana Tel (7) 405 093, 405 094. Santiago Tel (22) 623 300.

Police Havana Tel 106. Santiago Tel 106.

Fire Brigade Havana Tel 105. Santiago Tel 105.

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/'&+%+0'5#0&6*'9'..5722.+'& =+06'40#6+10#.2*#4/#%+'59*+%*%*#4)'+0%108'4 6+$.'2'515=#4'016(170&+0'8'4;61906+5$'5661 $4+0);1741905722.;1(757#./'&+%+0'=2#+04'.+'8'45 ('8'44'&7%'45#06+$+16+%5#0&561/#%*64'#6/'065=#5 9'..#556410)5705%4''05#0&+05'%64'2'..'065

PUBLIC WCS (RESTROOMS) 07$#27$.+%61+.'65#4' *#4&61(+0�&6*';#4' 1(6'0&+46;#0&9+6*1769#6'4 *'4'+50157%*6*+0)#5 61+.'62#2'4':%'26+06*' $#6*411/5+04'56#74#065 *16'.5.7:74;0+)*6%.7$5#0& #+42146551+6+59+5'61%#44; #)11&5722.;9+6*;17 ILLNESSES

7//'4%1.&5#4'37+6' %1//10+07$#1(6'0 %#75'&$;6*'%1064#56 $'69''06*'*'#61(1765+&' A Cuban ambulance #0&6*'%*+..;#+4+0*16'.5#0& VACCINATIONS PHARMACIES 51109*'4'#+4%10&+6+10+0) +510/#:+/7/6+5#)11& 18#%%+0#6+10514+01%7 *'0#6+10#.2*#4/#%+'5 +&'#61%#44;#.+)*659'#6'414 .#6+105#4'4'37+4'&(148+5+65 #4'0169'..561%-'�& ,#%-'6(146*'5'1%%#5+105 617$#'/#4-#$.;#./156 )'0'4#..;4'5'48'&(147$#05 56*/#57(('4'45/#;(+0& #..6412+%#.&+5'#5'5*#8' '&+%+0'5#4'51.&10.;7210 6*#66*'*7/+&%.+/#6'%17.& $''0'.+/+0#6'�&+6+5 24'5'06#6+101(#24'5%4+26+10 64+))'4#0#66#%- 8+5+614561 37+6'5#('6164#8'.#4170&6*' 06*'5'2*#4/#%+'5(14'+)0'45 7$#9+6*4'52+4#614; 241$.'/55*17.&#.9#;5%#44; '06+4'+5.#0& %#010.;274%*#5'/'&+%+0'5 #.#4+#*#5#.51)10'6*#0-5 /#&'(41/0#674#.+0)4'&+'065 6*'+4757#./'&+%+0'#0� 61#57%%'55(7.'4#&+%#6+10 +0%.7&+0)5;47256+0%674'5#0& +0*#.'49+6*6*'/ ..6*' %#/2#+)0*'4'#4'4'564+%6+8' 8')'6#$.''55'0%'59*+%*#4' *152+6#.5#0& 6*' 0'+)*$174*11&1762#6+'06 5#0+6#4;4')7.#6+10510.;(14 /#&'106*'24'/+5'5*'; 6*15'#44+8+0)(41/%17064+'5 #4'':%'..'06'(('%6+8'#0& %.+0+%5#4'9'..'37+22'& +09*+%*;'..19('8'4#0& %1568+467#..;016*+0)6*';%#0 (146*'5'241$.'/5 %*1.'4##4''0&'/+%&+5'#5'5 MEDICAL TREATMENT 7$#027$.+%*'#.6*%#4'+5 ':%'..'06(4''1(%*#4)' #0&572'4+14616*#61(('4'& +0#0;16*'4#6+0 /'4+%#0 %17064;6*17)*+6*#5$''0 27670&'45'8'4'24'5574'$; 6*' '/$#4)1 *'0#6+10#.5'48+%'+5 4'5'48'&(147$#0%+6+<'05 14'+)08+5+6145#4'64'#6'& +0+06'40#6+10#.%.+0+%514+0 27$.+%*152+6#.59*'4'6*'; 9+..*#8'612#;(1464'#6/'06 +0%108'46+$.'2'51506*' 2.755+&'6*';#4')+8'0/14' %1/(146#$.'411/5

Entrance to the historic Taquechel pharmacy in Havana (see p72)

DIRECTORY EMERGENCY NUMBERS Ambulance and First Aid Havana Tel (7) 405 093, 405 094. Santiago Tel (22) 626 485, 623 300.

INTERNATIONAL HOSPITALS AND CLINICS Havana Clínica Cira García, Calle 20 n. 4101, esq. 43, Miramar, Havana. Tel (7) 2042 811, 2040 330.

Wearing a hat and using sunscreen to avoid burns and heatstroke

PROTECTION FROM

016*'4(#+4.;%1//10 07+5#0%'+07$#+5&+#44*1'# THE SUN 149145'&;5'06'4;*+5%#0 *'570+07$#+58'4; )'0'4#..;$'24'8'06'&$; 56410)#0&2416'%6+10+5 #.9#;5&4+0-+0)$166.'& 0'%'55#4;'52'%+#..;+07.; 9#6'4149#6'46*#6*#5 #0& 7)756!'#4#*#6 $''0274+(+'&9+6*6#$.'65 9*'6*'4+0619014+06*' #016*'475'(7.24'%#76+10 %17064;5+&'#0&75'# +561#81+&(11�&&4+0-5 56410)570.16+109+6*# 51.&106*'564''66/#; *+)*5%4''0(#%6146+5 $'$'5661#81+&+%'+0 #.51#&8+5#$.'61&4+0- %1%-6#+.5#59'.. #.161(9#6'46124'8'06 ..6*'5'/'#574'5 &'*;&4#6+10+)* 5*17.&#.51$''017)* 619#4&1(()+#4&+#5+5 *7/+&+6;#0&*'#6/#; #&+5'#5'%#75'&$; %#75'*'#65641-'9+6* #2#4#5+6'6*#6#66#%-5 5;/261/51(6*+456 6*'+06'56+0'#0& 0#75'#('8'4#0& %#75'5&;5'06'4; &+<<+0'55(6*+51%%745 A bottle of Ciego Montero -''272(.7+&+06#-' 0#75'#(#6+)7'#0& mineral water #0&6#-'%1.&$#6*5 9'+)*6.155 #4'%#5'51(;'..19 INSECTS ('8'4#0&&'0)7'('8'4/#; 1%%74+06*'57//'4+06*' /#45*;<10'51(#56'407$# 1537+61'5#4'6*'/#+0 +44+6#06+07$##0&%#0 #.6*17)*+024#%6+%'('9 6174+5658+5+66*'5'#4'#5 %#75'&+5'#5'059#/2; 14.#)110#4'#557%*#56*' 19'8'45+0%'6*'5'691 "#2#6#59#/22#;2#46+%7.#4 &+5'#5'5#4'524'#&$; #66'06+1061#22.;+0)+05'%6 /1537+61'5+6+5#&8+5#$.'61 4'2'..'06%18'472+06*' 75'2.'06;1(+05'%64'2'..'06 '8'0+0)#0&5.''29+6*6*' 9*'02.#00+0)616174 (#014#+4%10&+6+10+0)10 /#45*;#4'#5

Santiago de Cuba Ave Raúl Pujol y Calle 10. Tel (22) 642 589.

Varadero Calle 60 y 1. Tel (45) 667 711.

INTERNATIONAL PHARMACIES Farmacia Internacional Miramar Ave. 41 esq. 20, Miramar, Havana. Tel (7) 204 4350.

Farmacia Internacional Habana Libre Hotel Habana Libre, Ave. L, e/ 23 y 25, Vedado, Havana. Map 2 E2. Tel (7) 554 593.

HEALTH TOURISM Servimed – Cubanacán Turismo y Salud Ave 43 n. 1418, esq. 18, Miramar, Havana. Tel (7) 204 1630.

HEALTH TOURISM *#0-561+65(#8174#$.'%.+/#6'7$#*#5.10)$''0 4')#4&'#0'(('%6+8'5#0#614+7/2127.#49+6*#0 +06'40#6+10#.%.+'06'.';6*' 6*%'0674;6*'(+456 *16'.5*#&$''0$7+.60'#4524+0)51(6*'4#2'76+% /+0'4#.9#6'4'5+&'6*'52#56*'4'#4'019 +06'40#6+10#.%.+0+%59*+%*2418+&')'0'4#./'&+%#. %#4'#0&#.5152'%+#.+<'+0#06+564'55#0&5-+0 64'#6/'065#59'..#5*152+6#.5(146*'4'*#$+.+6#6+101( #.%1*1.+%5#0&&47)#&&+%65*'5'%'064'5#4'.1%#6'& 6*417)*1766*'%17064;#0'+0)4'#6&'/#0&6*' 9#+6+0).+565#4'016.10)6*'24+%'5#4'%1/2'6+6+8' #0&6*'4'57.65#4')11&*';#4'470$;6*'56#6'470 Servimed14)#0+<#6+102#461(6*'7$#0#%>0)4172

Dermatological treatment in one of the specialist clinics

( * ' + + " *

TELEPHONE NUMBERS

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76=<36=<36=<3<3BE=@9AGAB3;7A7< B63>@=13AA=4037<5C>2/B32 5 centavos

HOW TO USE A PUBLIC TELEPHONE "74BB63@3137D3@/<2E/7B4=@B63 27/::7<5B=<3 )6327A>:/GE7::/A9 1 B63CA3@B=76=<31/@2 !&%'&('%'7
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2

20 centavos Coins used for phoning

PUBLIC TELEPHONES 7/:B63>3/@=:/G )63@3/2=CBE7:: /:A=A/G6=E;C161@327B @3;/76=<31/@2

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Telephone cards

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Banco de Crédito y Comercio (5+;/,Banco Financiero Internacional

CREDIT CARDS

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The handsome Neo-Classical façade of a bank in Santa Clara

DIRECTORY BANKS Banco Financiero Internacional 5ta Ave. no.9009 esq. 92, Miramar, Playa, Havana. Tel (7) 267 5000. Fax (7) 267 5001.

Banco de Crédito y Comercio Amargura no.158 esq. Cuba, Habana Vieja, Havana. Tel (7) 861 4533. Fax (7) 338968.

BUREAUX DE CHANGE CADECA Casa de Cambio Aeropuerto José Martí, Terminal 3, Havana. 24 hours daily.

CADECA Casa de Cambio Obispo no.257, e/ Aguiar y Cuba, Habana Vieja, Havana. 8am–10pm daily.

CADECA Casa de Cambio Hotel Nacional, Calle 0 esq. 21, Vedado, Havana. 8am-noon & 1–11pm Mon–Sun.

CADECA Casa de Cambio Aeropuerto de Varadero.

CREDIT CARD ASSISTANCE Centro de Tarjetas de Crédito Calle 23 (La Rampa), e/ L y M, Vedado, Havana. Tel (7) 334444.

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Entrance to the José Martí airport in Havana

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AIRPORT

INFORMATION

US TRAVELLERS /'3+%#0.#8/'#045*#5+5 +4+..')#.(13!2#442135 *1.&'345153#7'.516$##4 5163+4541310$64+0'44$65+5+4 2144+$.'51#22.:(13#.+%'0%' (31/5*'US Treasury Department *'4'%#0$')+7'0(13 3'.+)+16413*6/#0+5#3+#0 +05'3'4553+2451(3''.#0%' DISTANCE FROM CITY OR TOURIST CENTRE

Havana

José Martí

(7) 266 4133

Town centre: 25 km (15 miles)

Varadero

Juan Gualberto Gómez

(45) 247 015

Town centre: 6 km (4 miles)

Cayo Largo del Sur

Vilo Acuña

(45) 248 205

(in the middle of the cay)

Camagüey

Ignacio Agramonte

(322) 610 10

Town centre: 9 km (5.5 miles)

Holguín

Frank País

(24) 462 512

Town centre: 13 km (8 miles)

Santiago de Cuba

Antonio Maceo

(22) 698 614

Town centre: 5 km (3 miles)

Manzanillo

Sierra Maestra

(23) 57 401

Town centre: 8 km (5 miles)

Ciego de Ávila

Máximo Gómez

(33) 309 161

Cayo Coco: 80 km (50 miles)

Cienfuegos

Jaime González

(43) 552 047

Town centre: 5 km (3 miles)

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DIRECTORY AIRLINES Air France www.airfrance.com Tel 0845 084 5111 (UK).

Cubana de Aviación www.cubana.co.cu Tel 020 7537 7909 (UK).

Iberia www.iberiaairlines.co.uk Tel 0845 609 0500 (UK).

Monarch Airlines www.flymonarch.com Tel 01582 400 000 (UK).

Virgin Atlantic www.virgin-atlantic.com Tel 01293 562 345 (UK).

US TRAVELLERS Center for Cuban Studies www.cubaupdate.org Tel (212) 242-0559 (US).

US Treasury Department www.treas.gov/ofac Tel (202) 622-2000 (US).

TOUR OPERATORS Captivating Cuba www.captivatingcuba.com Tel 0870 887 0123 (UK).

Havanatur UK Tel 01707-646 463 (UK).

Holiday Holiday www.holidayholiday.co.uk Tel 0870 251 2523 (UK).

Journey Latin America www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk Tel 020-8747 8315 (UK).

Regent Holidays www.regent-holidays.co.uk Tel 0870 499 1311 (UK).

Scuba en Cuba www.scuba-en-cuba.com Tel 01895-624 100 (UK).

South American Experience www.southamerican experience. co.uk Tel 020 7821 4060 (UK).

The Holiday Place www.theholidayplace.com Tel 020 7644 1755 (UK).

Thomas Cook www.thomascook.com Tel 0870 750 5711 (UK).

Voyager Cuba www.voyagercuba.co.uk Tel 01580 766 222 (UK).

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A lanchita, a waterbus connecting the various towns around the bay of Havana

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DIRECTORY AEROCARIBBEAN Havana Calle 23 n. 64, Vedado. Map 2 F2. Tel (7) 8797 524, (7) 8797 525, or (7) 832 7584.

CUBANA DE AVIACIÓN Camagüey Calle República 400. Tel (322) 913 38, 921 56.

Holguín Calle Libertad, esq. Martí. Tel (24) 464 148, 464 149.

Havana Calle 23, e/ P e Infanta, Vedado. Map 2 F1. Tel (7) 834 4446.

Santiago de Cuba Calle Enramada esq. San Pedro. Tel (22) 651 578.

Varadero Ave 1ra e/ 54 y 55. Tel (45) 611 823-5.

FERROTUR Havana Estación Central de Ferrocarriles, Egido y Arsenal. Map 4 E4. Tel (7) 862 1920.

VÍAZUL Havana Main Office Ave 26 y Zoológico, Nuevo Vedado. Tel (7) 8811 413 or (7) 882 0645. Fax (7) 666 092.

Varadero Calle 36 y Autopista. Tel (45) 614 886.

Santiago de Cuba Ave de los Libertadores, esq. Yarayó. Tel (22) 628 484. A Víazul line coach

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Example of a new road sign seen outside cities

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A lorry picking up hitch-hikers on the Autopista Nacional (motorway)

THE HIGHWAY CODE

THE ROAD NETWORK

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A hire car at a Servi-Cupet service station

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NUMBER PLATES ?,+8-+<8?7,/<:6+>/= -97/38.300/-969?<= 38.3-+>381>2/>C:/90 9A8/<=23: ,9@/>2/ 8?7,/<3=+A9<. 38.3-+>381>2/-+>/192/@/23-6/ 7/+8=3>,/6981=>9+ =>+>/398 7/+8=3>3=+ :<3@+>/-+<3= ?=/.09<-+<=/.,C >9?<3=>=+8. 09< 4938>@/8>?
Official plate

Private plate

Tourist plate

ROAD SAFETY

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ubacar+8.Vía Rent a Car 0<97CubamarCubanacán 93=+6=9 &2/03<=>>A9-97:+83/= :9==3,6/>923/<= 2+@/+8?7,/<90,<+8-2 9003-/=3829>/6=>2<9?129?>>2/ 3=6+8.+8.38%/<@3?:/> DIRECTORY =/<@3-/=>+>398==9>2+>>2/C CAR HIRE +9:<9@3./+199. 8/>A9<590=?::9<>A236/>2/ Cubacar 9>2/<>A92+@/9003-/=986C38 Calle 3rd y 164, Miramar, Havana. >2/7+38-3>3/= Tel (7) 273 1130, (7) 273 7233. +<=-+8,/:3-5/.?:+8. .<9::/.900+>79=>90>2/ Havanautos +3<:9<>=,?>3>3=+.@3=+,6/>9 Calle 1 e/ 0 y 2, Miramar, Havana. ,995>2/7A/6638+.@+8-/ Tel (7) 835 3141, (7) 835 3142. /=:/-3+66C382312=/+=98 A2/8>2/=7+66/<+8.-2/+:/< Rex 79./6=+3=7+./38 de Bejucal, Havana. +.@+8-/+8.C9?7?=>/3>2/< Tel (7) 683 0303, (7) 273 9166. 6/+@/+-+=2./:9=3>A23-23= Vía Rent a Car (Gaviota) Calle 47 e/ 34 y 41 dep. Kohly, 90C9?<--+<.-+<7+C Playa. Tel (7) 2043 606. ,/.<9::/.900+>+.300/

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Fax (7) 2044 455.

MINIVAN HIRE Cubacar Calle 164 esq. 3ra, Reparto Flores, Havana. Tel (7) 273 2277, (7) 835 0000.

Micar Calle 110 e/ 5 y 3, Playa Habana, Havana. Tel (7) 206 9778, (7) 204 3457.

Transtur Calle 1ra esq. 26, Playa Habana, Havana. Tel (7) 2045 532.

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Traffic around the Capitolio: rickshaws, vintage cars and a camello

WALKING IN HAVANA

BUS SERVICES

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A camello or “camel” bus, so-called by the locals because of its shape

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Ciclobuses, carrying people and bikes across the tunnel in the Havana bay

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A state-owned taxi, the best way to get from one district to another

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The yellow cocotaxi, an unusual three-seater scooter

RICKSHAWS 469,,5=09654,5;(33@ -90,5+3@)<;:36>,9(3;,9 5(;0=,;6;(?0:0:;6<:,(90*2 :/(>69)0*0;(?0(:;/,@(9, 256>505<)($/,:,(9, <:,+)@<)(5:(5+;6<90:;: -69:/69;90+,:05;/,*,5;9, $/,@*09*<3(;,46:;3@05 ()(5( &0,1(69*(5), -6<5+6<;:0+,/6;,3,5;9(5*,:

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DIRECTORY TAXIS Fénix Tel (7) 8639 720, (7) 866 6666.

Habanataxi Tel (7) 539 086, (7) 539 090.

Ok Taxi Tel (7) 204 1446, (7) 204 9518.

Panataxi Tel (7) 555 555.

Transgaviota Tel (7) 267 1626.

A horse-drawn carriage in Calle Obispo, Habana Vieja

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P H R A S E

B O O K

335

Phrase Book The Spanish spoken in Cuba is basically the same as the Castilian used in Spain with certain deviations. As in the Spanish-speaking countries in Central and Southern America, the “z” is pronounced like the “s”, as is the “c” when it comes before “e” or “i”. Among the grammatical variations, visitors should be aware that Cubans use Ustedes in place of

Vosotros, to say “you” when referring to more than one person. It is notable that some Indian, African and English words are commonly used in present-day Cuban Spanish. This basic phrase book includes useful common phrases and words, and particular attention has been paid to typically Cuban idioms in a list of Cuban Terms.

Cuban Terms

How are you? It’s a pleasure! Goodbye, so long

apagón babalawo

apagon babala-wo

bohío

bo-ee-o

carro karro casa de la trova kasa deh la troba batey

batay

cayo chama criollo

ka-yo chama kr-yo-yo

divisas guagua guajiro guarapo ingenio jama eva jinetera

deebeesas gwagwa gwaheero gwarapo eenhen-yo hama eba heenetaira

jinetero

heenetairo

libreta moneda nacional moros y cristianos paladar

leebreta moneda nas-yonal

puro santero tabaco tambor

pooro santairo tabako tambor

tienda

t-yenda

trago tunas zafra

trago toonas safra

moros ee krist-yanos paladar

black-out, power cut a priest of AfroCuban religion traditional rural house with palm leaf roof car club where traditional music is played village around sugar factory small island child Creole (born in Cuba of Spanish descent) dollars (slang) bus farmer sugar cane juice sugar factory complex food, meal woman prostitute, or female hustler male person hustling tourists rations book pesos (“national currency”) rice & black beans (Moors & Christians) privately-owned restaurant authentic Cuban cigar santería priest low-quality cigar Afro-Cuban religious musical feast shop that only accepts dollars alcoholic drink prickly pears sugar cane harvest

Emergencies ¡socorro! ¡pare! Llamen un médico Llamen a una ambulancia Police! ¡policía! I’ve been robbed Me robaron

Help! Stop! Call a doctor Call an ambulance

sokorro pareh yamen oon medeeko yamen a oona amboolans-ya poleesee-a meh rrobaron

Communication Essentials Yes No Please Pardon me Excuse me I’m sorry Thanks Hello! Good day Good afternoon Good evening Night Morning Tomorrow Yesterday Here How? When? Where? Why?

sí no por favor perdone disculpe lo siento gracias ¡buenas! buenos días buenas tardes buenas noches noche mañana mañana ayer acá ¿cómo? ¿cuándo? ¿dónde? ¿por qué?

see no por fabor pairdoneh deeskoolpeh lo s-yento gras-yas bwenas bwenos dee-as bwenas tardes bwenas noches nocheh man-yana man-yana a-yair aka komo kwando dondeh por keh

¿qué tal? ¡mucho gusto!

keh tal moocho goosto

hasta luego

asta lwego

Useful Phrases That’s fine Fine How long? Do you speak a little English? I don’t understand Could you speak more slowly? I agree/OK Certainly! Let’s go!

está bien/ocá ¡qué bien! ¿Cuánto falta? ¿Habla un poco de inglés? No entiendo ¿Puede hablar más despacio? de acuerdo/ocá ¡Claro que sí! ¡Vámonos!

esta b-yen/oka keh b-yen kwanto falta abla oon poko deh eengles no ent-yendo pwedeh ablas mas despas-yo deh akwairdo/oka klaro keh see! bamonos

Useful Words Large Small Hot Cold Good Bad So-so Well/fine Open Closed Full Empty Right Left Straight Under Over Quickly/early Late Now Soon More Less Little Sufficient Much Too much In front of Behind First floor Ground floor Lift/elevator Bathroom/toilet Women Men Toilet paper Camera Batteries Passport Visa; tourist card

grande pequeño caliente frío bueno malo más o menos bien abierto cerrado lleno vacío derecha izquierda recto debajo arriba pronto/temprano tarde ahora ahorita más menos poco suficiente mucho/muy demasiado delante detrás primer piso planta baja elevador servicios mujeres hombres papel sanitario cámara baterías pasaporte visa; tarjeta turistica

grandeh peken-yo kal-yenteh free-o bweno malo mas o menos b-yen ab-yairto serrado yeno basee-o dairecha isk-yairda rrekto debaho arreeba pronto/temprano tardeh a-ora a-oreeta mas menos poko soofees-yenteh moocho/mwee demas-yado delanteh detras preemair peeso planta baha elebador sairbees-yos moohaires ombres papel saneetar-yo kamara batairee-as pasaporteh beesa; tarheta tooreesteeka

Me siento mal Me duele el estómago la cabeza Está enfermo/a Necesito decansar farmacia

meh s-yento mal meh dweleh el estomago la kabesa esta enfairmo neseseeto dekansar farmasee-ya

Health I don’t feel well I have a stomach ache headache He/she is ill I need to rest Drug store

Post Office and Bank Bank I want to send a letter Postcard

banco Quiero enviar una carta postal tarjeta

banko k-yairo emb-yar oona karta postal tarheta

336

P H R A S E

Stamp sello Draw out money sacar dinero

se-yo sakar deenairo

Shopping How much is it? ¿Cuánto cuesta? kwanto kwesta What time do you ¿A qué hora abre/ a ke ora abreh/ open/close? cierra? s-yairra May I pay with a ¿Puedo pagar con pwedo pagar kon credit card? tarjeta de crédito? tarheta deh kredeeto?

Sightseeing Beach Castle, fortress Cathedral Church District Garden Guide House Motorway Museum Park Road Square, plaza Street Town hall Tourist bureau

playa castillo catedral iglesia barrio jardín guía casa autopista museo parque carretera plaza, parque calle, callejón Ayuntamiento buró de turismo

pla-ya kastee-yo katedral eegles-ya barr-yo hardeen gee-a kasa owtopeesta mooseh-o parkeh karretaira plasa, parkeh ka-ye, ka-yehon a-yoontam-yento booro deh tooreesmo

¿Me puede llamar un taxi? aeropuerto estación de ferrocarriles terminal de autobús ¿A qué hora sale?

meh pwedeh yamar oon taksee? a-airopwairto estas-yon deh fairrokarreeles tairmeenal deh owtoboos a keh ora saleh?

aduana tarjeta de embarque alquiler de carros bicicleta seguro estación de gasolina

adwana tarheta deh embarkeh alkeelair deh karros beeseekleta segooro estas-yon deh gasoleena

Transport Could you call a taxi for me? Airport Train station Bus station When does it leave? Customs Boarding pass Car hire Bicycle Insurance Petrol/gas station

Staying in a Hotel Single room/ double Shower Bathtub Balcony I want to be woken at… Warm water/ cold Soap Towel Key

habitación sencilla/ doble ducha bañera balcón, terraza Necesito que me despierten a las… agua caliente/ fría jabón toalla llave

abeetas-yon sensee-ya /dobleh doocha ban-yaira balkon, tairrasa neseseeto keh meh desp-yairten a las… agwa kal-yenteh/ free-a habon to-a-ya yabeh

¿Qué hay para comer? la cuenta, por favor vaso cubiertos Quisiera un poco de agua ¿Tienen vino? La cerveza no está bien fría desayuno almuerzo comida crudo/cocido

la kwenta por fabor baso koob-yairtos kees-yaira oon poko deh agwa t-yenen beeno? la sairbesa no esta b-yen free-a desa-yoono almwairso komeeda kroodo/koseedo

Eating Out What is there to eat? The bill, please Glass Cutlery I would like some water Have you got wine? The beer is not cold enough Breakfast Lunch Dinner Raw/cooked

keh I para komair?

Menu Decoder aceite agua mineral aguacate ajo arroz asado atún azúcar bacalao

asayteh agwa meenairal agwakateh aho arros asado atoon asookar bakala-o

oil mineral water avocado garlic rice roasted tuna sugar cod

B O O K

café camarones carne congrí

kafeh kamarones karneh kongree

cerveza dulce ensalada fruta fruta bomba helado huevo jugo langosta leche marisco mantequilla pan papas postre pescado plátano pollo potaje/sopa puerco queso refresco sal salsa té vinagre

sairbesa doolseh ensalada froota froota bomba elado webo hoogo langosta lecheh mareesko mantekee-ya pan papas postreh peskado platano po-yo potaheh/sopa pwairko keso refresko sal salsa teh beenagreh

coffee prawns meat rice with beans & onions beer sweet, dessert salad fruit papaya ice cream egg fruit juice lobster milk seafood butter bread potatoes dessert fish banana chicken soup pork cheese drink salt sauce tea vinegar

minuto hora media hora lunes martes miércoles jueves viernes sábado domingo enero febrero marzo abril mayo junio julio agosto setiembre octubre noviembre diciembre

meenooto ora med-ya ora loones martes m-yairkoles hwebes b-yairnes sabado domeengo enairo febrairo marso abreel ma-yo hoon-yo hool-yo agosto set-yembreh oktoobreh nob-yembreh dees-yembreh

cero uno dos tres cuatro cinco seis siete ocho nueve diez once doce trece catorce quince dieciséis diecisiete dieciocho diecinueve veinte treinta cuarenta cincuenta sesenta setenta ochenta noventa cien quinientos mil

sairo oono dos tres kuatro seenko says s-yeteh ocho nwebeh d-yes onseh doseh treseh katorseh keenseh d-yeseesays d-yesees-yeteh d-yes-yocho d-yeseenwebeh baynteh traynta kwarenta seenkwenta sesenta setenta ochenta nobenta s-yen keen-yentos meel

Time Minute Hour Half-hour Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday January February March April May June July August September October November December

Numbers 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 500 1000

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