Cut hair at home like a pro

CUT HAIR AT HOME LIKE A PRO By Steven Woodham, Barber/Stylist Illustrated by Wai Man Chan*

-Fully Illustrated -Easy to Understand -Save Money Doing Home Haircuts

CUT HAIR AT HOME LIKE A PRO BY STEVEN ROSS WOODHAM Illustrated by Wai Man Chan*

Text and illustrations copyright © 1992 by Steven R. Woodham. All rights reserved. Reproduction in any manner without written permission of Steven R. Woodham is prohibited except for brief quotations used in connection with reviews of this book.

Original Edition first printing August ©1992 Second Edition, ©2002 ISBN Pending

Steve’s Haircuts and Hairstyles PO Box 143 Murrieta, CA 92564

*Cover illustration and those initialed were drawn by the author.

The material in this book is presented as information which should be available to the public. In most places, it is illegal to cut hair without a license. The author does not advocate breaking the law. The author assumes no responsibility or liability for accidents or any other adverse condition occurring as a result of the use of the material contained in this book.

II.

PREFACE

This book would not have been possible without all the support and encouragement which I received from my wife Merlinda. Several other people deserve my sincere gratitude for their help in producing this book. Thanks to Vic Levi, Dr. R. H. Chavalier, Martin Giavelli, Wai Man Chan, Ms O’Neal (art teacher for San Pascual Academy), Mike Steinmeyer, Mary Thera, and Jim D. Jones. Last, but not the least, my niece, Jessica, who appears with me on the cover illustration. STEVEN ROSS WOODHAM Author

Dedicated to my late grandfather, Ross Russo, barber stylist and respected businessman, who was a master of his craft. Grandpa gave me my first haircut.

III.

TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION ………………………………………………………. 1 FOREWORD ……………………………………………………………. 2 Chapter 1 TOOLS ………………………………………………………. 3 types of tools; scissors; combs; water bottle; chair cloth clippers; small clippers; other tools; introduction to 3 basic methods; trim, layer and clipper. Chapter 2 THE TRIM …………………………………………………… 8 the trim defined; 3 tips for a good trim; how to trim long hair; how to hold shears; how to trim bangs; how to trim sides of long hair; how to frame short hair. Chapter 3 LAYERING HAIR ………………………………………….. 18 layering defined; simple “shaggy cut”; lifting hair with comb; step by step basic layer cut; how to use thinning shears; diagrams of common layer cuts. Chapter 4 CLIPPER CUTS …………………………………………….. 33 similar to slicing hair; clipper attachments; buzz/butch cut; simple regulation type cut; simple marine cut; tapering the hair (shingling); step by step taper; specialty clipper cuts; standard flat top cut. Chapter 5 AFRO-TYPE HAIR CUTTING …………………………….. 44 beard trimming principles; step by step Afro-cut. Chapter 6 HOW TO CUT YOUR OWN HAIR ………………………... 47 four tips for cutting your own hair. Chapter 7 PROS and CONS of A CAREER IN HAIRSTYLING …… 48 EPILOGUE (and TIPS) …………………………………………………. 50 GLOSSARY ……………………………………………………………. 51 IV.

FOREWORD Anyone can cut hair. All it takes is a desire to do so and a few basic instructions. What is most important is practice. After a trip to the beauty salon or barber shop, most people feel as if some mystery or secret has just been performed. It is as if someone has waved a magic wand over our head. All we know is that after a good haircut we look a little neater and more well groomed. The purpose of this book is to take the mystery out of cutting hair. This book will show you the basics. In an illustrated, easy to understand, step by step format, you will learn everything from what tools you will need to do a good job, to the three basic methods from which all cuts and styles are derived. It is important that you read this book completely from cover to cover before attempting any of the cuts. One word of caution: it is unlawful, in most places, to cut hair without a license. If you are reading this book, you may want to consider becoming a licensed professional. I have included a special section on the pros and cons of haircutting as a career for those who may be interested. In any case, one need not be a licensed professional to per form a professional looking haircut. I have seen several so called “home haircuts” in my career that looked as good as what I myself, a licensed professional, could do. In the next chapter, we will get started so you too, can cut hair like a pro.

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Chapter 1 TOOLS The tools you use for cutting hair are the foundation of a good haircut. You need not spend a lot of mone y to get professional tools, but you must have the “right” tools. This chapter will tell you what tools you need and how to find them. You will need some sharp scissors, a comb, a water bottle with sprayer and something to act as a chair cloth to drape the client. For shorter men’s haircuts, you will also need some electric clippers. There are many other accessories you may also wish to have, such as a hand-held mirror, clipper attachments (commonly called “rakes”), clips, etc. For flat top haircuts, you will need a special type of comb. SCISSORS Of all the tools you will use to cut hair, scissors are the most important. Any scissors will do if they meet certain criteria. The most important thing is that they be very, very, sharp. Try this test: hold a piece of thread in one hand and let it dangle in the air. If your scissors can cut through this with ease, without pulling the other end of the thread to make it taut, then your shears are probably sharp enough. The length of the scissors is not as important. Any shears from 3” to 8” will do as long as they feel comfortable to the hands and fingers. Shorter scissors are a bit easier to use when cutting large masses of hair. What matters most concerning the length of shears is what you feel most comfortable with. You will adjust to whatever size you use. Sometimes, good sewing shears purchased new at fabric shops will work better than those cheap barber scissors included in most home haircutting kits. If possible, try comparing a few different pairs of shears to see which cut the best. Of course, if you are considering cutting hair professionally or prefer to use the best, you could go to a barber or beauty supply shop and see what is available, however, professio nal shears can be quite expensive. More about shears and the proper way to hold them will be explained in the coming chapters. Some shears have a finger rest at the end. This is nice to have but not necessary. What is most important is that the scissors are very, very sharp and can cut with ease.

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COMBS You will need a 7” rectangular shaped comb. It is especially important to use the rectangular shaped comb and not the angled taper comb you sometimes see in those home barber kits. Here is an illustration to clarify:

7” rectangular comb

taper comb—do not use

The taper comb is difficult to work with because it is too flexible. When you try to pick up the hair, the taper comb will bend. WATER BOTTLE A water bottle with a sprayer is easily obtainable at any major market. If you prefer to be practical, you can use just about any old household cleaning bottle with a sprayer as long as what was previously stored in the bottle has not contaminated it. CHAIR CLOTH You can purchase an inexpensive chair cloth at any barber or beauty supply shop. Polyester is preferred because the hair will easily slide from this material. You really don’t have to spend any money on this, though. An old beach towel will work just as well if you don’t mind washing it often. A disposable 32 gallon plastic trash bag works very well. It can be custom fit and costs less. It would be better to apply the money saved toward the purchase of some good scissors.

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CLIPPERS For short haircuts ( i.e. taper/shingle, buzz/butch, flat tops, G. I.), you will also need some electric clippers. The main thing to look for is that the blades are sharp and actually cutting the hair. Also, check to see that the clipper blades are not loose. It is best to get a clipper that plugs into a wall outlet. Battery operated clippers are better for trimming the neck, sideburns, and outlining beards and mustache. If your clippers are second hand, you will probably need to clean the blades with a toothbrush, add a little clipper or sewing machine oil to the blades and tighten up any loose screws. An old toothbrush will work well to keep hair from building up on the blades. By the way, dog clippers will work on human hair as well (just make sure to remove the fleas). Beware of those cheap clippers sold at department stores. Some of them just don’t have sharp enough blades to do the job. For a better set of clippers at a reasonable price, it is best to purchase them from a beauty or barber supply store.

SMALL CLIPPERS (“EDGER”) Many small clippers are battery operated. These clippers are commercially sold at many department stores and called “beard trimmers.” Some electric razors have this type of trimmer built into them. You will use these clippers only for the neck and sideburns. You don’t really need this type of clipper if you have the plug- in type mentioned above; however, the small clippers are a convenient accessory for trimming necks and also for touching-up between haircuts.

OTHER TOOLS (FLAT TOP COMBS TO THINNING SHEARS) If you are planning on cutting a flat top style cut, you will need a special “flat top comb” available only at barber supply stores. You may also need some clipper attachments known as “rakes.” For cutting Afro-type hair, you will need a fork-type comb. A good hairstyle begins with a good cut. There are really only 3 basic ways to cut hair: trimming, layering, and clipper cutting. I will discuss each of these in detail in the coming chapters. To change the style after the cut can involve using curling irons, rollers, curlers, blowdryers, ratting hair, hair spray, gels, etc. One haircut can be manipulated to create several different “looks.” Much of this is up to the creativity of the hairstylist or the client. Many women have a natural inclination for developing different styles as a result of years of experimenting with hair. There are no right or wrong ways to cut and style hair. What is really important is the end result. How does it look? If the client likes the haircut, then you have succeeded in cutting hair the right way. If you plan on working with long hair, it is good to have a blow-dryer. If you plan on working with extremely fine or light colored hair, you will need some blending shears also known as “thinning shears.” These are those funny looking scissors with teeth instead of normal blades. You will see barbers use these scissors sometimes.

The purpose of these shears is to leave some hairs and remove others. They can help eliminate that “choppy” look and can help to erase scissor lines (feathers/wings) that show after cutting light blond hair.

blending or thinning shears

Common sense items, such as having adequate lighting (preferably fluorescent) and keeping tools in a sanitary condition should not be disregarded. Laws regulating barber and beauty shops are particularly concerned about sanitation and lighting.

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INTRODUCTION TO 3 BASIC METHODS

The next three chapter are the essence of this book. I will discuss the three basic ways to cut hair. There are really only three ways to cut hair. They are: (1) the trim or frame (2) the layer cut or “feathering” (3) The clipper cut Every haircut possible is derived from one or combinations of these 3 basic methods. In fact, most styles use a combination of techniques from each of these basic three. WARNING! Do not attempt to try any of these cuts until you have read this book completely through and understand its contents.

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THE TRIM (FRAMING THE HAIR)

Chapter 2 THE TRIM (FRAMING THE HAIR) This chapter will discuss the first of the basic methods, the trim. This is also called the frame, outline or weight line. This method of cutting hair is used in almost every haircut and is sometimes all that is necessary. Did you ever make paper dolls or cut patterns in paper? It is as easy as this to trim the hair. A trim is simply cutting off the ends of length of the hair in a straight line. You would use this method to cut bangs or shorten long hair and also as a step in other basic types of cuts. Framing or outlining are good terms to describe this method because this is essentially what you want to accomplish. There are just a few things you need to know in order to trim the hair: 1) As mentioned earlier, always use extremely sharp shears. 2) Always prepare the hair first by brushing or combing out all snarls and tangles. Thick hair may need to be wet first. It is very important to properly prepare the hair first by making sure that every strand of hair is thoroughly combed out, and that there are absolutely no snarls or tangles. This may be the most time consuming part of this method. Make sure no hairs are hidden behind the ears or nape of the neck. 3) Always remember to cut off less hair than you want the finished length to be. Hair will shrink after being trimmed, especially if it is wet when you trim it. It is important to judge how much the type of hair you are working with will shrink. Curly-wavy hair, “cowlicks” (erratic hair growth), and bangs will shrink the most. So then, 1) always use sharp shears, 2) always prepare by thoroughly combing out hair, and 3) always cut off less than the length desired in the end because hair will shrink. These three points are the most important things to consider when doing a trim. HOW TO TRIM LONG HAIR Here is a simple step by step procedure for trimming long hair. If the hair is not extremely thick, this can be very simple. STEP 1: Set up the patron (drape with chair cloth, clean tools, etc). This is the first step with any cut. STEP 2: Preparation is very important. Make sure you can pull a comb through the hair as easily as a knife goes through soft butter. Make sure, too, that there are absolutely no tangles or hidden hair that has not been combed out. This may take some time, especially with dry, damaged or thick hair. Thick hair should be shampooed or wet first. An advantage of cutting wet hair is that the hair will cling together for easier cutting. Also, the hair tends to blow around less. The main disadvantage of cutting hair wet is not being able to judge how much the hair will shrink, especially with “cowlicks.” Therefore, with thick hair it may 9

be better to cut wet. Bangs with “cowlicks, and fine hair are probably be tter to cut dry. After you have properly prepared the hair by combing out all tangles and you have determined how much to cut, yo u are ready for Step 3. STEP 3: Part the hair in the center and brush all the hair back. See illustration.

STEP 4: Have the patron bend their head forward so that they are looking downward at the floor. By cutting at this angle you will be “undercutting” the hair. In other words, after your cut, the hairs toward the top of the head will be a bit longer than the hairs near the nape of the neck. This will cause the hair to have a tendency to turn inward instead of out.

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HOW TO HOLD THE SHEARS STEP 5: Before proceeding with any cut, you must learn how to properly hold the shears. Hold the shears in the hand you favor, right or left. Insert your thumb through the bigger hole in the handle.

illustration

Insert your ring finger (3rd finger) through the other, smaller hole in the handle. If you have a finger rest on the shears, the little finger (4th finger) will rest on it. Holding the shears in this manner will assure that you have the maximum amount of tensiuon on the cutting blade.

STEP 6: Begin the cut on whichever side is most comfortable for you. Start to cut in a straight line about 1/4” longer than desired. Remember, the hair will usually shrink a little. It is better to use fewer cuts rather than a lot of small chops. Using fewer cuts makes the trim more even and less “choppy” looking. STEP 7 : Continue to c ut until you have trimmed diagonally across the entire length of the back.

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trim horizontally across back STEP 8: Check to see if the cut is even. You can do this by observing if the line you have cut is perpendicular in relation to the hair.

note: hair is perpendicular to trim Also check again to see that all the hair is combed out. Observe that there are no hidden ends that have been left uncut. 12

HOW TO TRIM BANGS STEP 1: Section bangs off from the rest of the hair. There is no rule of thumb to follow as to where to section off. For thicker bangs, section off further back from the front. For thinner, more wispy looking bangs, section off a smaller part, perhaps 1/4” or less from the hairline in front.

here for thinner

here for thicker bangs

Section according to preferences

STEP 2: Start to cut in a straight line at least 1/4” longer than desired. Where to begin and end the cutting is a matter of preference. Important: the bangs do not have to be connected to the rest of the frame on the sides. It is perfectly acceptable for the end of the bangs to just “drop-off” into the long hair with no connecting lines. I will usually cut from the end of one eyebrow to the other. The rule to remember when trimming bangs is, never cut too much. Bangs will shrink even more than the other parts of the hair because there is less weight to hold the hair down and also because “cowlicks” are very common in front. STEP 3: Check for evenness. Touch up as necessary.

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HOW TO FRAME SIDES OF LONG HAIR If framing of sides is desired, follow instructions below. This often not necessary, especially if the hair is all one length and has already been trimmed in back as previously mentioned. STEP 1: Section the hair on each side from the back of the ears forward. STEP 2: Face the patron. Have the patron bend head forward towards the left or right depending on which side you are cutting. STEP 3: Trim freehand (without gripping the hair), to shape of preference. HOW TO FRAME SHORT HAIR (Off the Ears) STEP 1: Thoroughly comb hair out removing any snarls or tangles. STEP 2: For now, begin in the back. Once you learn the technique, you don’t always have to start in back. Cut a straight line in back as in steps 6 and 7 of How to Trim Long Hair.

STEP 3: Comb the back right corner forward toward the front and proceed to cut going from the top of the ear downward. Don’t hesitate to bend the ear. Ears are flexible.

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STEP 4: Now comb the back left corner toward the front and proceed to cut, going from the nape of the neck upward towards the ear. Again, don’t be afraid to bend the ear.

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STEP 5: Check to see that the angle of each corner is the same. STEP 6: Comb the hair out away from the ears. It is important, at this point, to make sure no hair is hidden behind the ears. STEP 7: Carefully cut off hair around the patron’s left ear. Start at the back of the ear and cut going toward the front. Bend the ear as necessary. STEP 8: Now move to the right side of the person whose hair you are cutting. Cut around the right ear. Begin at the front of the ear and cut going toward the back. Bend the ear as necessary. STEP 9: Comb the hair out away from the ears checking to see if there are stray hairs that you missed when trimming around the ears. You may have to repeat steps 5, 6, and 7. STEP 10: Face the patron. STEP 11: Comb all the hair forward and trim right and left corners from eyebrows to sideburns. See illustration:

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STEP 12: Leave the front alone so that there is enough hair to comb back. A small amount can be cut off the front if it is very long. Simply comb the hair forward and cut, but do not cut above the eyebrows. If bangs are desired, follow instructions on how to trim bangs. To reduce the bulk and do a complete haircut you will have to layer the hair. How to layer hair will be explained step by step in the next chapter. STEP 13: Outline neck, sideburns, and around the ear using the small clippers. You can also use a razor or moustache trimmer to do this. As mentioned previously, the most important factors affecting trimming the hair are: 1) you must have razor sharp shears, 2) the hair must be thoroughly combed out, and 3) do not cut too much. With these basic instructions and practice, you also can cut hair as well as a professional. For especially thick hair, it may be necessary to cut the hair one section at a time by pulling the hair up and gradually bringing hair down to be cut in sections, thereby minimizing the amount of hair to be cut all at once.

thick hair may need to be trimmed in sections

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LAYER CUTS

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Chapter 3 LAYERING HAIR (Defined) “Layering” is the most commonly used method of cutting hair. It is also known as “feathering” because you can sometimes see the scissor lines or “feathers” when the hair is brushed back. Trimming, framing, or outlining, as covered in the previous chapter ALWAYS cuts length. Layering the hair always cuts bulkiness. Layering hair can involve cutting the hair from all over the head instead of just cutting the end length. The best way to clarify this is to imagine having a type of magnet that would lift the hair straight out from the scalp 90°. Or better yet, perhaps you can remember a cartoon in which the character is electrocuted and his hair would stand straight out on end.

imagine this: electrified look

To layer hair, you will pick the hair up in small sections, all around the head, and cut some off.

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DIFFERENT STYLES ARE CREATED BY LAYERING AT DIFFERENT ANGLES OR BY LAYERING ONLY CERTAIN SECTIONS For shorter length hairstyles, the layers should be angled more inward when cutting, like the illustrations:

For longer hair, the layers should be angled in a fashion that will leave more hair covering the ears. The hair should be layer cut in a “roof top” pattern like the illustration below.

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SIMPLE LONG HAIR “SHAGGY CUT” Here is a simple “shaggy cut” that will work for some long hairstyles. It works very well for naturally curly long hair. In the following layer cuts described in this book, you will pick the hair up in small sections and cut. Though this is still a layer cut, with this procedure, you will cut the hair all at once. PROCEDURE STEP 1: Pull all the hair up to the top center of the head. STEP 2: Tie the hair up with elastic band to keep in place.

STEP 3: Cut the hair straight off 5” or more from the top of the head, as in the illustration. STEP 4 : Take the band out and let the hair fall. The hair will now be layered in a “shaggy cut.”

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diagram of shaggy cut

(imagine hanging the patron upside down) STEP 5: Frame according to preference, as described in the previous chapter.

finished style Here is an illustration of the finished “look.” This is a good cut for naturally curly long hair.

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LIFTING HAIR WITH THE COMB Before proceeding further, in order to layer hair, you must learn how to pick the hair up with the comb and grasp hair with the first 2 fingers of the other hand. There are 3 different methods for picking up the hair with the comb: 1) Push the comb into the hair and lift, 2) Pull the comb toward you and lift or 3) Section the hair in small partings and lift section by section. To begin, hold the comb in the hand you favor (right or left). Either push or pull a small parting of hair up with the comb. At the same time, grasp the hair underneath the comb with the index and second finger of the other hand. The only difference between the push and pull method is, the push method pushes hair away from you and up with the comb, and the pull method pulls hair toward you and up. I prefer to use a combination of both push and pull methods, only instead of going into the hair with the comb randomly, sections of hair are taken up in small partings. These methods will make more sense to the more experienced haircutter. If you are just starting, these methods should become more understandable with experience. In these instructions you will begin the layer cut in front and work back from there. It really doesn’t matter where you begin and end the cut after you learn how to do it. You should keep in mind, haircutting is not always methodical. Every person’s hair is a little different. To me, this is one of the things so interesting about cutting hair. Let us begin.

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BASIC LAYER CUT STEP 1: First imagine how the hair would look standing out on end.

Comb all hair out so there are no tangles. It is probably better to wet thick hair first. STEP 3: 3: Face the person whose hair you are cutting. Remember this! You must be facSTEP ing the patron whenever you layer cut the top- front and the left side of the patron. (For left- handers, face the patron when layer cutting the right side instead). You must always cut in these positions in order to get the best access for the section of the head you are layering. STEP STEP 4: 5: First, hold both the scissors and the comb in the hand you favor. Begin by lifting a small section in the front with the comb. This is just like when you section off the bangs, only, instead of combing the hair down, you pull it up. Grasp the section of hair you have just pulled up with the first 2 fingers of your other hand. Once you have a grip on the hair, transfer the comb to the hand that is gripping the hair, holding it between your thumb and first finger. The scissors should not switch hands.

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Refer, also, back to the sections on “How to hold scissors” and “How to lift hair with the comb.”

STEP 5: Start to layer by cutting the hair you are lifting. Note: Be sure not to cut much shorter than 3” unless you want the hair to stick up a little or unless the person whose hair you are cutting uses some formula to keep the hair in place. Usually cutting shorter than a 3” layer is too short. Cut the hair grasped above your fingers only to the second knuckle. The remainder of the hair in the fingers cannot be grasped well enough. You will cut that hair in the next row of sections.

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do not cut past the second knuckle

This first cut is called the “guideline” because you want the rest of the hair to be the same length. STEP 6: Now push the comb into a section a little bit further back than the section you just cut. Pull up the hair. Try also to pull up a small amount of hair from the previous section. You should be able to actually see the guideline from the previous cut. Important: There are three ways you can find the guideline when layering the hair. They are 1) by looking at or “seeing through” the hair from the previous guideline, 2) by estimating the measurement of how long the first sectio n was cut, in other words, by feel and 3) practice, practice, practice. STEP 7: Continue steps 5 and 6 straight back toward the crown of the head, then start a new row continuing the same process (see diagram). The crown is that section at the top-back of the head where the hair comes out of the scalp in a circular, tornado like pattern. Be especially careful not to cut too short in this section or the hair will stick up.

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top view of head

crown

STEP 8: Once all the top sections are cut, you are ready to layer the left side (or for left-handers, the right side). Continue to face the patron. Pull a small section of hair out with the comb from the left front side so that you meet the guideline from the top. See diagram below. Hold the comb at the same angle as the side of the head. All hair must be picked up and cut perpendicular (directly out) from where the hair grows. Cut again from front to back in rows as in illustration below.

left side

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STEP 9: Now move to the back of the person whose hair you are cutting. Always stand in the back of the patron when layering the right side and back of the head (except left-handers, who should stand in the back only when cutting the left side and back of the head). STEP 10: Layer the right side and back using the same procedure. See illustrations.

right side

back of head

It doesn’t really matter how you do it as long as all the hair is picked up in small sections and cut the same lengths. Instead of layering starting in front and going back, it is all right to start in back and go forward , or even in another direction, like from side to side. This is also a good way to check for overall evenness of the cut. STEP 11: Once you have completed the layering part of the cut, you can trim/frame the hair according to the desired length. Many stylists prefer to trim the hair first and use this length as the first guideline. Remember, there are no right or wrong ways to do it. What is important is the end result. I prefer to trim (or frame) after layering because there is less hair to trim. STEP 12: Don’t get discouraged. If the haircut looks “choppy” or if you see obvious “lines” from the scissor chops, then continue to re-do those sections.

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Instead of layer cutting from the front to the back, try cutting going the other way, from side to side.

layering in different directions

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HOW TO USE THINNING SHEARS If the cut still looks choppy, you may need to use some thinning shears. These will give the hair a smoother or softer appearance. If this is necessary, lift the hair out from the head with the comb in the area that looks choppy. Thinning shears should touch flat against the outer part of the comb. Cut only 1/2” or less with the thinners. Never go too close to the scalp with the thinning shears. Use the thinners only in the areas that look “choppy.” Study the illustration below and follow carefully. Most cuts will not even require the use of these shears. Thinning shears are most useful on blonde hair because scissor lines tend to show up more on lighter shades of hair.

cut only 1/2” or less with thinning shears

STEP 13: Outline sideburns and neck using small trimmer or razor.

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These same 13 steps can be used for any layer cut. There are many different types of layer cuts. Some cuts are only layered in certain sections. Here are diagrams of some common layer cuts:

Box Cut (for thinning hairline)

Basic Layer Cut (for shorter lengths)

Angle Cut (for longer lengths)

Shaggy Cut (another type shaggy cut)

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Curly hair is layered the same way as straight hair. A special section on how to cut Afro-type hair is included in the next few chapters. Hair that is thinning on top should still be layered. Usually a “box cut” pattern is preferred for thin hair because this style will leave more hair in the thinner areas. More than anything else, layering hair takes practice. It is like learning to type or play a musical instrument. The more often you do it, the better you will become. A lot of students have told me that they understand the concept of layering but that they have trouble in finding the guideline. Remember the three ways to find the guideline: by seeing through the hair, by measurement or feel, but most important . . . practice.

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CLIPPER CUTS

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Chapter 4 CLIPPER CUTS Framing or trimming the hair is analogous to cutting patterns in paper. Layering the hair involves being able to visualize the hair “electrified,” standing out on end. This chapter will be about cutting hair by another method, using the electric clippers. Clipping hair with the electric clippers is more like slicing the hair. There are various styles that can be cut using the clippers, from flat tops and Mohawks to regulation military cuts. CLIPPER ATTACHMENTS (RAKES) Clipper attachments, commonly called rakes, fit onto the head of the clippers. There are various types of rakes. Every brand of clippers has different width rakes to compensate for the various sizes on the clipper blade. One brand of clippers has the rakes built into the blade as all one unit. Rakes are usually not interchangeable from one clipper brand to another. There are different sizes of rakes designed to cut the hair at different lengths. The most common sizes are #1, #2, and #3, with #1 being designed to cut the shortest. The standard rakes usually look something like the illustration below. They clip onto electric clipper blades.

common rakes In the 90's, larger size attachments (#4 through #8) became more readily available. It is now possible to do an entire man's haircut using only attachments. Be sure to use the same methods outlined in the following instructions. You may need to go over the hair with the attachments in lots of different directions. You may also need to repeat the process a few times in order to make sure you haven't missed a section . If you use a larger number on the top than on the sides and back, you may need to blend or taper that middle section using a clipper and comb. To do this, refer to the sections on tapering and use of thinning shears. When you are finished, you will need to trim the sideburns and neck.

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There is one type of rake known as a “taper” rake. With this type, there is a right rake for the right side of the head and a left rake for the left side. These types of rakes cut closer at the bottom than the top and are shaped at an angle like the illustration below. bottom

top

taper rake do not use Do not use this type of rake unless you have practiced using it. These rakes were designed to make it easier to taper the hair. They usually don’t work properly. The same can be said about many of the other devices on the market designed for the amateur to cut hair. HOW TO DO A BUZZ-CUT WITH A RAKE Let us begin with a very basic haircut called a “buzz” or a “butch” haircut. It is very simple. Doing this cut is kind of like mowing a lawn in miniature. You only need to make sure you go against the grain of the hair while cutting. It is probably best to use a #2 rake attachment for this cut. For very fine hair it may be better to use a #3 rake so that the hair will be a little longer. For a close cut use a #1 rake.

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STEPS FOR BUZZ/BUTCH STEP 1: Set up the patron. There is no need to wet the hair. STEP 2: Look at the diagram and note from which direction the hair grows out from the head.

direction of hair growth Note that the hair is naturally forward directed in the front and on the top.

STEP 3: Attach the appropriate rake to the clippers. STEP 4: Follow with the clipper against the direction of the arrows in the illustration. Cut against the grain of the hair. Always clip against the direction from which the hair grows. STEP 5: Repeat step 4 a few times to ensure that you have clipped all the hair that may have been matted down. STEP 6: Finish by trimming sideburns and neck with small clipper or razor. Never, ever cut into the hairline (the hairline is where the hair ends its growth from the scalp).

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buzz cut

Now let us try something a little more complex. This cut is more like a regulation man’s haircut. SIMPLE REGULATION TYPE CUT STEP 1: Use a #1, #2, or #3 rake attachment and clip the back and sides up to the section just before the head starts to curve. STEP 2: Layer the top about 3” long. 3” is the average length to layer cut. Very fine hair can be layer cut an inch shorter. Very thick hair will usually stick up if layer cut less that 2 3/4”. Be especially careful not to layer cut “cowlicks” too short. (A cowlick is a small section of the scalp where the hair does not grow in the typical direction as the rest of the hair around it). STEP 3: Blend the top in with the sides and back using the thinning shears. Refer to previous chapter on How to Use Thinning Shears, step 12 of basic layer cut. Hair is lifted away from the head using the comb and cut with the thinning shears perpendicular from where the hair grows. Thinning shears should touch outside of comb. Be careful not to use thinning shears too close to the scalp. Cut only 1/4” to 1/2” off. 37

use of thinning shears

STEP 4: Outline the sideburns and neck with small clipper or razor. Do not cut into hairline. STEPS FOR SIMPLE MARINE STYLE CUT STEP 1: Do not use any rake attachment on the clippers. Instead, put the clipper head flat against the sides and back, and go upward to curve in head. note angle of clipper

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STEP 2: Use #2 or #3 rake attachment for the top of the head. STEP 3: Shave the neck and around the ears with the razor.

TAPERING THE HAIR (SHINGLING) Tapering is an even graduation of the hair. Near the neck and the ears, the hair is cut shorter. The hair gradually becomes longer toward the top of the head. With men’s haircutting, this is known as tapering. With women, the same technique is known as shingling. An example of this kind of cut would be a regulation military haircut, not a marine cut, but more like the regular old- fashioned men’s cut of the 50’s. There are a few differences between tapering a men’s haircut and a woman’s shingle cut. With a woman’s cut, you would usually only taper in the back and not on the sides. Women’s “tapers” are not usually cut as high up. Women’s “tapers” are sometimes done with scissor and comb instead of the electric clippers. Here are step by step instructions to taper hair using the electric clipper. It is advisable to practice using the clippers with the rake attachments before attempting this technique. STEP BY STEP TAPER STEP 1: Set up the patron. STEP 2: Layer the top of the hair. STEP 3: Using the clipper and comb, start at the hairline at the nape of the neck. Push the comb into the hair and angle out slightly. Hold the clippers in the hand you favor. With the clipper touching against the outside of the comb, cut the hair in an arc-like motion (going outward at an angle with the comb). The higher you clip the further away the comb should be from the scalp. Remember, this is like “slicing” the hair.

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clipping the hair

STEP 4: As explained previously, use the thinning shears to smooth out the taper as necessary. STEP 5: Outline the neck and sideburns. Again, I must emphasize that old adage, “practice makes perfect.“

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SPECIALTY CLIPPER CUTS Flat tops, step haircuts, Mohawks, and other specialty cuts with the clippers, will require much practice. It is advisable to take a trip to the barber shop to observe profe ssionals in action. A long thin comb known as a flat top comb will be especially helpful for these types of cuts.

flat top comb

There is another type of flat top comb that is very big and shaped like a large fork with a level on top. This comb is designed to cover the entire top of the head. This comb can usually be purchased only at large haircut chain-type shops. HOW TO DO A STANDARD FLAT TOP STEP 1: First, cut the sides and back of the hair with a #1 or #2 rake up to the curve of the head clipping against the grain of the hair, as explained in the previous section “How to Do a Buzz Cut with Rake.” STEP 2: If the top is long enough to cut by layering, then layer the top down to 1” or less so that the hair is standing up. Skip this step if the top is already short.

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STEP 3: Wet the hair on top and vigorously brush back until the hair is standing. It sometimes helps to use a little hair spray to make the hair stand up STEP 4: Stand in front of the patron and slide the flat top comb into the front of the hair. Clip at an angle so that the front will be slightly longer.

STEP 5:

Repeat step 4 sliding flat top comb into hair going a little further back. Use the first cut in front as your guideline. Keep repeating this procedure, sliding the comb a little further back each time until you have reached the crown area of the head. Keep going over the top with clipper and comb until it looks even.

SPIKE CUTS

If you have gotten this far, the haircut should be starting to take shape. There will be bulkiness left on the corners of the head. Cut these corners off at a 3545° angle using the same method of sliding the comb in.

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angle comb and slice off corners

STEP 7: Shorten the sideburns and trim the neck with the small clipper or razor. This style is usually worn with sideburns completely cut off. Do not become discouraged. The first time using the clippers is not easy. Just remember to practice on the type of cut you want to learn. It took me at least 20 attempts before I ever cut a “flat top” that I was proud of. Remember also, to read this book completely before attempting to cut any of the styles.

SPIKE CUTS Carefully follow directions for buzz cut, only use a larger attachment. The ultimate length of the hair should be between one-half inch and one inch. Use styling gel liberally to help create a spiked look.

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Chapter 5 AFRO-TYPE HAIRCUTTING (Principles Apply Also to Beard Trimming) Hair is hereditary. Every person has unique hair. This is why the art of cutting hair is not always methodical. Just as no two thumbprints are alike, neither are any two people's hair. Our hair is most like that of our siblings and next of kin. The same principles apply for cutting “Afro-type” hair as any other type of hair. The biggest difference are the methods for cutting Afro-type hair. For soft, less curly hair, follow the instructions mentioned previously for cutting the desired style. Hair with a very tight curl must be continually forked out from the scalp with a fork comb while cutting the hair.

fork type comb

It is also possible to cut “Afro-type” hair to all one length using the rake attachment on the clippers as described in the previous chapter on clipper cuts. Cutting Afro hair is more like sculpting or shaping. The same techniques can also be used to trim beards. The desired shape is up to the haircutter and patron. The following is a step by step method of “designing” Afro-type hair.

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STEP BY STEP AFRO-CUT STEP 1: Preparation is always important. To really do a good job, it is best that the hair be washed, conditioned and dried before starting. It is especially important that the hair is conditioned. There is no need to thoroughly rinse conditioner. A little conditioner residue left in the hair will make it softer and easier to work with. STEP 2: This is the most important step. Fork all the hair straight out from the scalp with a fork comb. This is a continuous procedure and must be repeated several times throughout the course of the cut.

fork hair out

STEP 3: Cut the hair using scissors or electric clippers. Shape as desired. There is no need to use a comb at the same time as cutting. Just remember, every time the hair is cut, it is padded down. The hair must be continually forked back out.

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cut with shears or clippers

STEP 4: Continue to repeat steps 2 and 3. Go over entire scalp, shaping as desired. STEP 5: Outline/frame the entire head with small clipper (front, back and sideburns). As with any haircut, do not cut into the hairline.

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Chapter 6 HOW TO CUT YOUR OWN HAIR It is best to first master some of the skills of haircutting by learning to cut someone else’s hair before attempting to cut your own. Once you are a little familiar with the methods explained in this book, you can cut your own hair. There are just a few things you will need to know. You can use any of the methods described in this book to cut your own hair in the style you prefer. All you have to do is keep in mind these four points: 1. You must have two mirrors. One mirror will be for in front of you, the other for the back. 2. When cutting, you should put down the comb, pick up the shears and cut the hair all with the same hand (whichever you prefer). 3. When framing, everything will be in the opposite direction when viewing the cut from the mirror. 4. When framing the back of short hair, you can place your hand on your neck and use your index finger as a guide in order to make sure that you do not cut into the hairline. See illustration, cut hair below the index finger.

use index finger as a guide

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Chapter 7 PROS AND CONS OF A CAREER IN HAIRSTYLING If you are reading this book and have gotten this far, then you may want to consider a career or part-time job as a licensed professional. You can find out what the requirements for licensing are in your state by contacting your local Cosmetology or Barber School. I am a licensed master barber- stylist and barber instructor. I have been in this business for over 20 years. I have cut and styled thousands of people’s hair. There are advantages and disadvantages of cutting hair as a career. One disadvantage as a stylist is that you must deal with others in such an intimate way as to actually be putting your hands into someone’s hair. At the same time, the stylist is responsible for making his or her client better. Anyone who has ever had a job working with the public knows how demanding this could be. Imagine dealing with someone’s appearance and hygiene at the same time. If one is choosing to cut hair as a career, there is a certain amount of tact and tolerance that must also be developed. Another disadvantage is lots of competition and limited earnings for most in the trade. There are exceptions, but the world of high fashion glamour hairstyling is like show business; highly competitive and trendy. Most stylists are limited by time. There are only so many haircuts a person can do in a day. The biggest disadvantage for most in this business is a genuine lack of benefits. Most hairstylists are self-employed or independent contractors and must provide their own health coverage, sick pay, vacation pay, and retirement benefits. The lack of benefits can be a real setback for one trying to advance in a career as a hairstylist. I started with the disadvantages because I don’t want you to get the wrong idea. I love my trade. Here are some of the advantages of being a hairstylist. Styling hair is an art and is very creatively rewarding. It is like music, only the instrument is the shear and the music is the finished haircut. It is like a painting, only the canvas the artist works on is an actual human being. For the musician, the painter, the carpenter, the seamstress or for anyone who enjoys creating things and working with the hands, hairstyling can be a very rewarding trade. After some practice, a good hairstylist can figure out how a haircut is performed just by looking at it, much as someone who is musically inclined can play a song by ear.

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Another positive aspect of doing hair as a career is that it is not always difficult work. I tell my clients that haircutting is not as forgiving as a chef’s work, because a chef can start over again. Once the hair is cut from a person’s head, you cannot put it back. On the other hand, cutting hair is more forgiving than brain surgery. At least the person’s hair will grow back. One little slip will not physically impair one for life; however, a bad haircut can cause emotional anguish for the sensitive. Another advantage of cutting hair for a living is that it is easy to become selfemployed in the field. You are selling a service and not a product that requires an inventory. The advantages of self- employment such as freedom and flexibility are obvious and need not be elaborated upon. To me, the biggest benefit of cutting hair as a career is the social aspect of the job. Those who are extroverted and enjoy socializing would like this part of the job. Some days, I feel as if I have been getting paid just for visiting with good friends. The network of people you meet while cutting hair, is a very valuable resource. Haircutting as a career may not be for everyone. There are advantages and disadvantages. If you are looking for a new trade or part-time job, then becoming a professional barber or cosmetologist may be right for you.

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EPILOGUE AND TIPS The three basic methods of cutting hair are the trim, the layer, and the clipper cut. Most cuts involve using combinations of all three methods. Additional work, such as permanent wave, weaving, coloring, etc., may be necessary to create a finished style. The most important ingredient in being able to perform a good haircut is to practice. Two questions to ponder are: 1) “What makes a good haircut?” and 2) “Why are some people better at cutting hair than others?” There are good and bad haircuts but there are ultimately no right and wrong ways to cut the hair. What is of foremost importance is the end result, the finished product. You are on your way to cutting hair like a professional. Haircutting need not be a mystery. Try to observe professionals in action whenever possible. Remember, the more often you cut one person’s hair, the better you will become at this particular cut. I hope you enjoy this book and are able to learn from it. I have enjoyed writing it. GOOD LUCK!

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GLOSSARY AFRO-TYPE HAIR: Hair with a very tight curl. It must be continually combed out while cutting. Cutting this type of hair is analogous to sculpting. CLIPPER CUT: Any cut using the clippers. Clipper cutting is analogous to slicing hair. Examples are buzz/butch, flat top, step and military type cuts. COWLICK: Erratic hair growth. Spot in the scalp where hair does not grow in the typical direction as the rest of the hair around it. CROWN: section in the top-back of the head where the hair comes out of the scalp in a circular, “tornado-like” pattern. HAIRLINE: Where the hair ends its growth from the scalp. LAYER: Cutting hair by picking it up in sections and cutting bulkiness, also known as “feathering.” You must imagine the “electrified” look. NAPE: Area on the back side of neck below the hairline. TRIM: Cutting off length of hair in a straight line. Known as “outline or frame.” Analogous to cutting patterns in paper.

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