Beauty Packaging 2012

Get more out of your cosmetics production Norden has over 70 years of experience in supplying tube filling lines to t...

Author: Jamie Matusow

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more out of your cosmetics production

Norden has over 70 years of experience in supplying tube filling lines to the cosmetics industry, for which we have introduced many innovations. These include Design-A-Seal®, Scoop Seal® and corner trimming that enhance product marketing and display. Whether you are in skin care for mass- or selective markets, or a producer of hair care or coloration products, our full comprehensive equipment programme will assure you always get the right solution for your particular needs. From tube loading, through filling and sealing, to product cartoning and tray packing, we enable you to get more out of your cosmetics production. www.siriusmachinery.com/USA Sirius Machinery Inc. 230 Industrial Parkway Branchburg, NJ 08876

Phone: 908 707 8008 Fax: 908 707 0073 [email protected]

USA, Mexico, Poland, China, Korea

FeatureARTICLES

January/February 2012 www.beautypackaging.com

Cover Story 18 Beauty Company of theYear: Excellence in Packaging

Elizabeth Arden Packaging Megabrands for Global Success

Cover Design: Jessica Carlin

Features

31

31 Sticking with Labels Versatility and ﬂexibility enable labels to deliver clear and compelling brand messages.

38 Nail Polish Pizzazz Trends in nail polish range from fun nail art to classic colors with a new twist. Packaging— from bottles and caps to labels and cartons showcase the latest oﬀerings in style.

43 Packaging Fragrance for

38

Sensorial Appeal Advanced technology unites with sight,touch and smell for fresh and modern fragrance packages.

58 NJPEC Honors Standout Packaging 33rd annual event features Package of the Year award.

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columnsdepartments

Columns 52 54

67

2012 Predictions Market researcher and futurist Judy Galloway previews the top new trends for 2012 and predicts how they’ll affect packaging. Contrary to consumer sentiment,The NPD Group’s Karen Grant says all signs point to another prosperous year for prestige beauty sales.

56

Understanding the beauty buyer as both a consumer and a shopper will be key, according to SymphonyIRI’sVictoria Gustafson.

67

Euro Style

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72

Brazilian Beauty

Lively design ideas,exquisite materials and cutting edge techniques keep

Brazil’s Ikesaki store thrills customers with an

the contemporary scent bottle fresh, new and on message for the brand.

atmosphere and products far different than more traditional beauty retail venues.

Packaging Spotlight A new jewelry line takes its queue from antique vessels as it brings a modern out-of-the-bottle approach to fragrance packaging.

78

Cosmoprof Bologna Once again, Cosmopack and Cosmoprof events will run concurrently this year.

Departments 8

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Editorial Insight A word from the editor

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Out and about at beauty industry events

74

Board of Advisors Industry leaders who help ensure our readers are kept up-to-date on relevant issues

12 64 66

76 79

Classified Classified advertising section

81

FastTrack Climbing the rungs of the corporate ladder

Design Center Components and creative collaborations from suppliers

Center Stage Spotlighting the Pros Beind the Packaging

Just Out Retail product launches with shelf appeal

Beauty Buzz News heard ’round the beauty world

Exposure

Ad Index Cross reference of advertisers in this issue

82

Events Calendar Upcoming industry events

Beauty Packaging (ISSN 1555-4953) is published monthly except February, May,August and November by Rodman Publishing Corp., 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey, NJ 07446. Phone: 201.825.2552 Fax: 201.825.0553. Periodical postage paid at Ramsey, NJ 07446 and additional mailing oﬃces. Canadian Publications Mail Agreement No: 40028970; Return Undeliverable Canadian Addresses to DHL Smart & Globalmail, 2-7496 Bath Road, Mississauga ON L4T 1L2 or circulation department - [email protected] POSTMASTeR: Send address changes to Beauty Packaging, 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA. Free subscriptions to Beauty Packaging are available to qualiﬁed individuals.The publisher reserves the right to determine qualiﬁcation of free subscriptions. Missing issues: claims for missing issues must be made within three months of the date of the issue. PRINTeD in U.S.A. Authorization to photocopy items in Beauty Packaging for internal or personal use, or internal or personal use of speciﬁc clients, is granted by Rodman Publishing, provided a base fee of U.S. $1 per page is paid directly to: Copyright Clearance Center, 27 Salem St., Salem, MA 01970 U.S.A. Beauty Packaging’s circulation is audited by BPA International.Authorization to photocopy items in BP for internal or personal use or speciﬁc client, is granted by Rodman Publishing, providing a base fee of U.S. $1 per page is paid directly to: Copyright Clearance Center, 27 Salem St., Salem, MA 01970 USA

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A WORLD OF POSSIBILITIES If you’re searching for a unique, single-use dispenser...discover the world of ampoule-based packaging. GLASS AMPOULES • Extend product shelf life • Provide tamper-resistance • Protect sensitive formulations from environmental exposure • Allow for specialized two-part mixing at the time of use

PLASTIC AMPOULES • Innovative, patented unit-dose package • Unique dispensing system for a variety of products • More convenient than traditional single-use packages • Available in a range of sizes and configurations

Your journey to smarter single-use packaging begins here. Visit www.james-alexander.com or call 908-362-9266

EditorialINSIGHT A word from Beauty Packaging editor, Jamie Matusow

A Happy Start to 2012 elcome to Beauty Packaging’s ﬁrst issue of 2012—and our annual announcement of the company chosen by our more than 25,000* unique online readers as Beauty Company of the Year: Excellence in Packaging. As you can tell by our cover, this year’s winner is Elizabeth Arden, Inc., a dynamic company that beat the odds of a rocky economic period with knockout products that produced record sales. Arden is a two-pronged company, holding its growing namesake brand as well as an impressive array of licensees in fragrance. In my report on Arden (see page 18), I think you’ll particularly enjoy vice president of creative Paul McLaughlin’s thoughts on packaging for a global market and creating packaging “that changes the consumer experience” despite the bumps in design and manufacturing that can hinder the process along the way. Fragrance stats, in general, were up at the end of 2011—with sales of Arden brands such as Taylor Swift’s Wonderstruck—and others, such as Justin Bieber’s Someday, setting new records. For 2012, we better get ready to hold onto our hats as Coty launches eagerly anticipated fragrances by celebrity icons Lady Gaga and Madonna. Not to mention the upcoming Louis Vuitton fragrance—the ﬁrst in decades. Technology, too, plays an increasing role in fragrance design and delivery, so Beauty Packaging’s Associate Editor Lisa Samalonis looks at the latest advancements in componentry used in fragrance packaging (p. 43). This issue also proﬁles innovators in Label Technology and Nail Polish Packaging, and features a special section entitled Predictions 2012 (p. 52), which reveals statistics and best guesses from three leading industry authorities: Judy Galloway, Karen Grant and Victoria Gustafson. And as always, don’t forget to check out www.beautypackaging.com for News, Online Exclusives, Experts’ Views,Top 20 Companies,Archives and so much more. It all adds up to the start of an exciting year—for the industry, as well as for Beauty Packaging, where publisher Jay Gorga and I both wish you a very happy and proﬁtable year ahead.

W

Editor Jamie Matusow [email protected]

Vice President/Editorial Director Tom Branna [email protected]

Associate Editor Lisa Samalonis [email protected]

Contributing Editors Leah Genuario Jennifer Hagemann

Art Department Michael DelPurgatorio [email protected]

President Rodman J. Zilenziger Jr. [email protected]

Executive Vice President Matthew Montgomery [email protected]

Publisher Jay Gorga [email protected]

Production Manager Pat Hilla [email protected]

Production Director Sharon Messner [email protected]

Online Director Paul Simansky [email protected]

Audience Development Manager Joe DiMaulo [email protected]

Circulation Manager Richard DeVoto [email protected]

Send Address ChangesTo: [email protected] 201.880.2256 Fax: 201.825.6582

Publishing Headquarters

Jamie Matusow [email protected]

70 Hilltop Road, 3rd Floor Ramsey, NJ 07446 U.S.A.

*Publisher’s own data provided by Google Analytics for the month of November 2011 (27,442 absolute unique visitors)

For Reprints 201.825.2552 Fax: 201.825.0553

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AdvisoryBOARD Beauty Packaging thanks its Board of Advisors—industry leaders who help ensure that our 10,000+ readers are kept up-to-date on relevant issues in the beauty and personal care packaging arena.

Philippe Bonningue

Karen Grant

Vice President-Packaging and Development for Corporate Operations North America, L’Oréal

Vice President, NPD Beauty

Karen Grant is vice president and global beauty industry expert for The Philippe Bonningue has been with the NPD Group. In this role, she provides L’Oréal Group for more than 20 years. a comprehensive view of the marHe joined the company in 1988 in the UK as UP-engi- ket—coupling expertise of brand management in deneer, and in 1999, moved to France. In 2000, Philippe was partment stores with the strategic insight of market named head of development and packaging for the inter- research. Karen’s concentration is in uncovering emergnational branch of the Active Cosmetics Division. He ing market trends, brand vulnerabilities and opportunicame to the U.S. in 2004 as the head of development and ties. She also provides industry insights on key trends to packaging for the Luxury Products Division (Lancôme, associations such as HBA and to the media. Kiehl’s Since 1851, Ralph Lauren Fragrances, Biotherm) and for the Active Cosmetics Division (La Roche-Posay, Maureen Kelly Creator & CEO, Vichy, SkinCeuticals, Dermablend, Biomedic) for the Tarte Cosmetics North America zone. He assumed his current position in Maureen Kelly created Tarte, a May 2006. makeup line that is innovatively packAllan Hafkin aged and loaded with natural ingrediVice President, Global Package ents that help treat the problem, not Development for Estée Lauder just cover it. She’s dubbed it “health couture”—the Allan Hafkin is currently managing marriage between fashion and nature. Maureen has won global package development and inno- many awards, including, in 2008, the Metro New York vation for both the Estée Lauder brand Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year Award in the and Tom Ford Beauty. He has more retail and consumer services category. She is also a dedthan 22 years of cosmetic packaging experience including icated philanthropist. manufacturing, engineering and development throughout all commodities and many brands within the Estée Scott Widro Executive Vice President of Lauder Companies and at Victoria’s Secret Beauty. Operations and Supply Chain, Gurwitch Products

Jon Dinapoli Creative Director, Coty Prestige

Scott’s numerous global responsibilities include demand management, Jon Dinapoli has been the global creproduction planning, inventory manative director for Coty Prestige for agement, procurement, vendor management, package more than six years. He has worked development and engineering, quality assurance, reguon various brands, including fashion latory coordination, transportation, distribution and designers Marc Jacobs, Kenneth Cole warehousing. He formerly held the position of vice and Vera Wang, and celebrities Sarah Jessica Parker, president of manufacturing and materials management, Gwen Stefani and Jennifer Lopez. He is in charge of all Chanel. He was chosen in 2007 as HBA’s Packaging Exnew brand development, package design, in-store mer- ecutive of the Year. In 2008, he was named to the New chandising and photography. Jersey Packaging Executives Club Hall of Fame. 10 • Beauty Packaging

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BeautyBUZZ News heard ’round the beauty world

Celebrity MC to Host 2012 FiFis The FiFi Awards, which are considered the “Oscars of the fragrance industry,” will take on a further celebrity edge this year to mark its impressive 40th anniversary.The Fragrance Foundation has announced that Emmy and Golden Globe Winner, and star of the megahit series “Glee,” Jane Lynch, will host this year’s FiFi Awards on May 21 in Manhattan at the prestigious Alice Tully Hall at Lincoln Center. Lynch has earned an Emmy Award for Outstanding Supporting Actress, a Golden Globe Award for Best Performance by an Actress in a Supporting Role and served as the host for the 63rd Annual Primetime Emmy Awards. She can currently be seen in the Golden Globe and SAG Award winning television series “Glee” on FOX as the one-liner powerhouse coach Sue Sylvester. More info: www.fragrance.org

This year’s FiFis promise to be more entertaining than ever thanks to host Jane Lynch.

Pratt-Luxe Pack Gala to Honor Shiseido

Andrea Jung Vacates Post As Avon CEO

The honoree has been announced for this year's “Pratt Institute-Luxe Pack Art of Packaging Award Gala,” beneﬁting the “Marc Rosen Scholarship and Education Fund for Packaging by Design at Pratt Institute.” Shiseido has been selected for its “outstanding commitment to package design,” and will be feted on Tuesday, April 17, at New York’s University Club (Fifth Avenue at 54th Street, New York Shiseido’s Heidi Manheimer City). Heidi Manheimer, CEO, (above) and Katsuhiko Shiseido Cosmetics America, and Shibuya will accept a packKatsuhiko Shibuya, creative direcaging award at Pratt-Luxe tor, Shiseido Co., Ltd. from the Pack’s annual black-tie event. corporate headquarters in Tokyo, will accept the award. The event will begin with a 6:30pm cocktail reception and will be followed by an 8pm dinner. Rosen, a seven-time FiFi award winner, is an internationally acclaimed designer, a Pratt trustee and alumnus, and at Pratt, teaches the only master’s course available on cosmetic and fragrance packaging design.Through this dinner and the sale of his newly released book, Glamour Icons, he has raised millions of dollars in scholarship funds for students desirous of entering the beauty packaging industry. For information and reservations: (212) 925-2507.

Avon Products has announced that starting this month, the company will separate the roles of chairman and chief executive ofﬁcer. Andrea Jung, who currently holds both titles, will leave her post as CEO, which she has held since 1999, and retain the position of executive chairman once her replacement is named. She will Andrea Jung now takes a continue to serve in her dual roles singular role at Avon. throughout the recruitment process and will work closely with the new CEO to ensure a successful transition.

12 • Beauty Packaging

Dates Change for Luxe Pack Shanghai 2012 The 2012 edition of Luxe Pack Shanghai has been rescheduled due to a recent oﬃcial notice from the Chinese government concerning a relatively new national holiday. The show will now take place March 28-29, at the Shanghai International Convention Center, instead of April 3-4, as originally planned.The Tomb-Sweeping holiday occurs April 2-4, 2012. Because Chinese traditional festivals are set by the lunar calendar, the dates change every year. The Luxe Pack venue remains the Shanghai International Convention Center. For more information: www.luxepackshanghai.com

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January/February 2012

beautybuzz

Albéa Acquires Eyelematic Albéa has announced the acquisition of Eyelematic, a manufacturer of metal parts as well as plastic injection, decoration, anodizing and assembly. Eyelematic has three plants located in Connecticut and maintains a diverse portfolio for the cosmetic, skin care and perfume sectors.The acquisition of Eyelematic enables Albéa to add to the group’s broad range of capabilities with the integration of metal forming.

Berlin Packaging’s Hand Soap Package Wins WorldStar Award

Berlin Packaging has been honored with a 2011-2012WorldStar Award for its custom Pampers Kandoo “Corner Buddy” hand soap package for Nehemiah Manufacturing. The custom frogshaped container—designed to ﬁt snugly in tub or sink corners for easy Glenroy, Inc. Receives Print Award do-it-yourself dispensing by chilGlenroy, Inc., a converter and printer dren—was one of only 11 U.S. of ﬂexible packaging, received a Cer- packages and 137 worldwide to tiﬁcate of Merit from Printing Indus- earn the commendation. Worldtries of America in the 2011 Premier Star winners were selected by 23 Pampers Kandoo “Corner Print Award Gala held September 11, judges from 22 countries and an- Buddy” was one of only 11 2011 in Chicago. Now in its 62nd nounced in Sweden by the World U.S. packages recognized year, the Premier Print Award compe- Packaging Organization.Awards are in a global competition. tition identiﬁes printed pieces of the based on the judges’ consensus that highest quality in various categories a package is superior in its category and better in execution from around the world. Competing or innovation than others in its class. Glenroy’s packaging for with 3,200 entries in this year’s comCool Off towelettes was petition, Glenroy won a Certiﬁcate of NPD Invests in Segmenta lauded by Printing Merit in the ﬂexographic printing ToTrack Latin American Beauty Industries of America. category for Cool Oﬀ towelettes.The The NPD Group, Inc. has made an investment in SegCool Oﬀ package was deemed ex- menta, a market research ﬁrm that tracks the prestige ceptional due to the package’s printed bright colors, which beauty industry in Mexico, Argentina, Brazil, Colombia, Chile, Peru,Venezuela, and Uruguay. As part of the agreeenhance the summertime motif of the package design. ment, Mark Turim, president and general manager for AGI World Merges with NPD in Latin America, has joined Segmenta’s board of Shorewood Packaging directors. Segmenta currently provides retail tracking, inAtlas Holdings LLC has announced the closing of its cluding data from over 900 stores, across eight countries. agreement with International Paper for the merger of the NPD’s backing will support development of additional companies’ consumer-packaging solutions businesses, with services. Segmenta now has over 90 clients in the region. plans for major expansion of its operation in Guangzhou, NPD oﬀers the only retail-point-of-sale tracking service China. AGI World and Shorewood Packaging have be- for the beauty industry in the U.S., along with comparacome AGI Shorewood, a global specialty packaging busi- ble services in France, the UK, Italy, and Spain. ness with operations in North America, Europe,Asia and Latin America.All locations of Shorewood Packaging ex- L’Oréal USA Goes Sonic cept those in China are now a part of the new AGI Shore- With electronic skin care device sales soaring, L’Oréal USA wood. Closing of the Chinese portion of the transaction has jumped into the market, announcing the completed will occur later this month upon the transfer of certain acquisition of Paciﬁc Bioscience Laboratories Inc. (PBL). governmental licenses and registrations. Mike Ukropina, PBL’s Clarisonic is a market leader in the rapidly growing who served as president of Shorewood Packaging, has areas of sonic skin care devices, topicals and technology. been named president and CEO of AGI Shorewood. Established in 2001, PBL developed its patented technol14 • Beauty Packaging

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beautybuzz

ogy, enabling a series of popular products under the Clarisonic brand that redeﬁned consumers’ approach to skin care. The move gives L’Oréal access to patented sonic skin care technology and with it, the ability to acquire strategic positions in the quickly L’Oréal makes a strategic acquisition with the purchase of Clarisonic. emerging skin care devices category.

Cosmoprof Asia Reports Success Cosmoprof Asia, held at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre from November 9-11, 2011, has reported positive growth in all aspects. This 16th edition of the exhibition was the largest ever with 68,000 square meters of exhibition space (up 18% on the 2010 edition), hosting 1,780 exhibitors (up 9% on 2010) from 42 countries and regions, of which 477 were first-time exhibitors (27% of the total) at the event. The total number of visits for the three days was over 48,500 (up

annual selection inﬂuences product development and purchasing decisions in multiple industries, including fashion, home and industrial design, as well as product packaging and graphic design. As far as cosmetics, Pantone said the color is a winner because of its versatility; it’s also an unexpected eye TangerineTango takes a bow as shadow color that ﬂatters blue color of the year. or green eyes. In fact, Pantone has partnered with Sephora to create the ﬁrst Color of the Year beauty collection, scheduled for launch in Spring 2012.

Naturals Market Resists Recession

Consumer preferences have been recorded in the natural health and beauty care market as robust product sales continue through all U.S. retail channels. Sales were predicted to reach $8.5 billion in 2011, according to “Natural and Organic Personal Care Products in the U.S.,” a recently released Packaged Facts report. The total increase since 2005 has been $3.7 billion, for a compound annual growth rate of 10% over the sixyear period. The skin care category within the Cosmoprof Asia opened to an enthusiastic international crowd. overall natural HBC market grew 11% in 8% on 2010) with a record in international attendance: 2011. Hair care was almost 30,000 visits (up 14% on 2010) with the increase the fastest-growing coming mostly from Australia, Brazil, Mainland China, category within the France, Germany, Italy, Japan, Korea, Middle East, Rus- market in 2005-2011, sia, Turkey and the U.S. climbing 86% over the six-year period to PantoneTangos with Sephora reach $2.1 billion, Consumers looking for an energy boost in the coming year though it varied sigare likely to gravitate to products wearing Pantone 17- niﬁcantly from year The word is out: Consumers favor “naturals.” 1463—Tangerine Tango—announced as the color of the to year. Natural year for 2012.The bright reddish-orange replaces Pantone makeup, valued at $455 million at retail in 2011, also 18-2120 Honeysuckle, the color chosen for 2011. Pantone’s achieved strong results. 16 • Beauty Packaging

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Written by Jamie Matusow, Editor

BEAUTY COMPANY OF THE YEAR

EXCELLENCE IN PACKAGING

Packaging Megabrands for Global Success With a focus on global markets and multiple channels, modernizing the packaging for the Arden brand and maximizing the looks of key licensed fragrances are the company’s top priorities. Here, Paul McLaughlin, vice president of creative at Elizabeth Arden, talks with Beauty Packaging about some of the company’s standout packages in 2011 and why they likely led to Beauty Packaging’s 25,000+ online readers naming Arden Beauty Company of the Year: Excellence in Packaging.

EMAINING TRUE TO THE BRAND WHILE tempting the consumer with a new experience, and making an impact in a global economy with multiple channels, drove new beauty and fragrance launches at Elizabeth Arden in 2011.The challenge of packaging the products for prestige and mass retailers, duty-free, travel and worldwide markets inspired design and engineering teams to develop bottles, caps, cartons and tubes that would draw enthusiastic consumers in all arenas. Paul McLaughlin, vice president of creative at Elizabeth Arden, is responsible for taking products from concept through launch, a role he describes as trying to “make everyone happy, meaning consumers in every beauty

R

18 • Beauty Packaging

channel across the globe—from retail to travel, U.S. to Asia, in addition to, of course, corporate executives. He says packaging has to look great at launch, on counter when the consumer is just walking by, in duty-free shops and on your dresser. It’s an ambitious plan that needs a carefully planned approach. “If you look at the industry,” he says,“we’re one of the more aggressive companies launching.We’re pushing the business, launching in mass as well as prestige.” In many cases, he says, packaging holds the key to “making everyone happy.” And while it’s evident from speaking with McLaughlin that this goal is not always easy to achieve, it seems he’s determined to stick to his princi-

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Beauty Company of the Year: Excellence in Packaging

a number of blockbuster fragrances, the company strategy is clear as it moves forward: focus on key megabrands to conquer multiple channels in a global market, with an eye on Europe. In Arden’s 2011 annual report, Beattie stated that the two largest fragrance markets are Western Europe, with annual retail sales of $13 billion (more A Look Back than twice as large as the fragrance Being voted Beauty Com- market in North America), and pany of theYear: Excellence Latin America, with annual retail in Packaging by Beauty sales of $10 billion. “We have Packaging’s readers in our mapped our brand portfolio across E. Scott Beattie, chairannual competition geographies and channels and are foproved to be a timely cusing our resources behind the man, president and CEO, Elizabeth Arden, Inc. tribute to Elizabeth highest potential brands and marArden, Inc., which cele- kets,” said Beattie. “Our initial pribrated its 100th anniver- ority is Europe given its size and developed retail sary in 2011. Often infrastructure.We have strengthened our commercial sales credited with establishing capability and are focusing our resources and investments the American cosmetics against key brands, including the Elizabeth Arden fraElizabeth Arden is often credited with industry, Elizabeth Arden grance brands of Red Door, Elizabeth Arden 5th Avenue establishing the U.S. beauty industry. built her business to great and Elizabeth Arden Green Tea, Britney Spears’ Fantasy heights by the 1920s, and Juicy Couture’sViva La Juicy, that have become relealong the way expanding her Red Door Salons (the iconic vant to the European consumer.” crimson door remains the logo for Elizabeth Arden, Inc. No matter what or where the launch, most important today), as well as her cosmetics, fragrance and skin care em- in creating successful packaging, emphasizes McLaughlin, pire. Following her death, the company went through a is staying true to the brand and maintaining the brand succession of owners including Eli Lilly and Unilever. Eliz- image, while also bringing something new and exciting abeth Arden, Inc. is headed by E. Scott Beattie, chairman, to the customer experience. He also repeatedly expresses president and CEO. how critical it is to “look at the whole global picture.” Following, McLaughlin talks with Beauty Packaging Favorable Results about the packaging that launched many of Elizabeth Despite a weakened economy, ﬁscal 2011 proved to be a Arden’s most successful products in 2011. strong year for the company, with record sales and earnings performance. Net sales grew by 6.5% to a record Throwing a Curve $1.17 billion for the ﬁscal year ended June 30. Sales in the Arden started oﬀ 2011 with a winning launch in mass U.S. accounted for about $702 million, while foreign sales market outlets with its Curve line, designed for a new reined in $474 million. generation of users—but development of the successful By category, fragrance was the overwhelming per- packaging was not without challenges. McLaughlin deformer at $900 million, followed by skin care at $207 mil- scribes Curve as “a big mass brand with lots of ﬂankers.” lion and cosmetics at $68 million. Curve launched 15 years ago and has proven highly successful as a top 10 fragrance for the past 10 years. In 2011, A Clear Strategy he explains, they developed a new brand within the line, With the widely loved namesake brand and the license to called Curve Appeal. The challenge, according to ples and forge through the trials and tribulations it takes to produce outstanding packaging that satisﬁes the company and its customers. After all, McLaughlin tells Beauty Packaging,“Packaging holds up the whole business.At launch, packaging is 70% of it. If your packaging doesn’t work, you’re in trouble.”

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Diamond Packaging congratulates

Elizabeth Arden

for being named Beauty Company of the Year.

Beauty Company of the Year: Excellence in Packaging

the brand’s signature aesthetic. The modernized bottle is inspired by “the fast-paced energy and forward motion of a new Curve generation” and features the classic Curve pump lock. It was a clever move that shook up the category. Victoria Gustafson, leader of the SymphonyIRI Beauty Vertical, notes that while “the fragrance category has been struggling for a long time, and 2011 was no diﬀerent, with the category down by 5% in food, drug and mass outlets, excluding Walmart (FDMx), the category was far from stagnant in 2011 and had some successes, such as Elizabeth Arden fragrances.” She said Curve, Arden’s sole brand in men’s McLaughlin: “How do we keep the DNA current?” In Top 10, became the No. 1 men’s fragrance in 2011, dethe end, Arden launched both men’s and women’s fra- posing a long-standing top fragrance, Stetson (Coty). grances in packaging based on the original bottle—but “One of the main keys to success is keeping the category literally put a slant on it, skewing the glass of the ﬂacon. fresh and the product exciting. Arden’s restage of Curve “How do you make something new but keep the conti- last year certainly contributed to it outperforming the catnuity?” asks McLaughlin rhetorically. Major challenges egory,” comments Gustafson. were to create the slanted bottle and also to achieve the gradated color on the glass for the men’s product.“Com- Focus on Prestige Fragrance plications arose with decorating,” admits McLaughlin.“We In the second half of 2011, Arden released three innovahad to ﬁgure out how to spray with the slant, then how tive prestige fragrance packages that broke more rules— to package the slanted bottle.We decided to package the and records. bottle in a tin, like they did 15 years ago, when a tin was a ﬁrst for fragrance.” Unlike its original linear secondary A Juicy Launch packaging, it was put in a circular tin for its 2012 reveal. In July 2011, Arden satiated collectors’ appetites with the The resulting fragrance package is a new, sleek spin on irresistible limited edition launch of Juicy Couture’sViva La The fragrance package for Curve Appeal is a new,

sleek spin on the brand’s signature aesthetic.

Extensive Portfolio Regarded as a global prestige beauty products company,

stick, foundation and other color cosmetics products.

Elizabeth Arden, Inc. boasts an extensive portfolio of both

The corporate prestige fragrance portfolio includes

mass and prestige fragrance, skin care and cosmetics

celebrity, lifestyle and designer fragrances. Celebrity fra-

brands, under the Elizabeth Arden name as well as through

grance brands include Britney Spears, Elizabeth Taylor,

numerous licenses, which are marketed domestically and

Mariah Carey, Taylor Swift and Usher. Lifestyle fragrance

globally. Elizabeth Arden branded products include the Eliz-

brands feature Curve, Giorgio Beverly Hills, PS Fine Cologne

abeth Arden fragrances Red Door, Elizabeth Arden 5th Av-

and White Shoulders. Designer fragrance encompasses

enue, Elizabeth Arden Green Tea, and Pretty Elizabeth Arden;

Juicy Couture, Kate Spade New York, John Varvatos, Ro-

the Elizabeth Arden skin care brands Ceramide, Eight Hour

cawear, Alberta Ferretti, Halston, Geoffrey Beene, Alfred

Cream, and Prevage; and the Elizabeth Arden branded lip-

Sung, Bob Mackie, and Lucky.

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January/February 2012

Beauty Company of the Year: Excellence in Packaging

Juicy, one of the top 10 a gold chain. Packaged in a bright pink case to evoke the prestige fragrances in feel of a jewelry box, the necklace becomes a special keepsake charm once the solid perfume has been used up. the U.S. The bottle is topped with a prismatic Surlyn cap with McLaughlin a weighty antique glass stopper look “borrowed” from the says Juicy girls “are collectors in existing cap used for the brand. “We used the existing bottle as well, but made it into a the most aggressive way,” so Arden wanted collector’s edition,” explains McLaughlin.The “Juicys” are Viva La Juicy’s perfume to do something spec- all ﬂankers of sorts. While production proved diﬃcult, the ﬁnal product solid is a charming tacular for a limited had what it takes to wow consumers at counter.“Viva La complement to the eau de parfum. edition that would live up to their expectations.The innovative packaging of both Juicy adds a jolt of both glam and fun with its limited edithe brand’s ﬁrst-ever parfum and a necklace containing tion ‘gold’ bottle, giant bow in girl-power pink, and solid perfume showcase the fun, ﬂirty, side of Juicy Cou- topped oﬀ with a sparkly jewelry charm,” says Karen ture while presenting two unique fragrance packages.The Grant, vice president of beauty/senior global analyst,The Juicy insignia plaque pops on the front of the bottle atop NPD Group—and a member of Beauty Packaging’s Board of Advisors. the crackled ﬁnish. Viva La Juicy will no doubt propel the Juicy Couture Again, as with Curve Appeal, the packaging for Viva fragrance franchise to new heights. In ﬁscal 2011, net sales La Juicy presented big challenges.“Doing the gold leafing on the glass was amazingly difficult to execute, as was grew by 19% due to healthy performance in both North keeping it financially possible,” says McLaughlin. So were America and international markets. Strong packaging and the satin bow and the charms that make the limited edi- marketing initiatives are in line to boost the brand’s international growth. tion irresistible. SymphonyIRI’s Gustafson notes:Viva Making it particularly tough to La Juicy is well positioned to overtake produce, says McLaughlin, was Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue for a No. the gold crackle on the outside 3 spot in women’s fragrance. of the bottle paired with silver on the inside, which was necesCapping It Off with sary to give the juice an appealVarvatos ing color. One year into Elizabeth Arden’s Three quarters of the bottle licensing agreement for JohnVarwears a crackled, antique-gold vatos fragrances, and already the look, executed by Providence packaging for the brand is on par Metallizing’s three-step proprietary metallization process, used with previous designs that have for the ﬁrst time on fragrance won it worldwide accolades—inbottles, and serves as the perfect cluding a 2010 FiFi for John Varfoundation for the fuchsia bow vatos Artisan, which won Best and diamond-gem heart-shaped Packaging-Men’s Prestige, while charm that adorns the ﬂacon.The still under Beauté Prestige Interbottle’s charm is highlighted by Viva La Juicy, is one of the top 10 prestige fragrances in the national. Since assuming the lithe Viva La Juicy Solid Perfume U.S.Three quarters of the bottle has a crackled, antique-gold censing relationship in May of Necklace (produced by Jackel) in look, thanks to a three-step proprietary metallization 2010, Arden developed and a diamond-gem heart-shape with process, used for the first time on fragrance bottles. launched a 10th anniversary lim24 • Beauty Packaging

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January/February 2012

Beauty Company of the Year: Excellence in Packaging

ited edition fragrance, and in September 2011, premiered a fragrance aligned with Varvatos’s Star USA apparel label. The bottle is made of smoky glass (produced by SGD) and silver metal, drawing inspiration from19th century vials and industrial materials, while the spring system of the cap is reminiscent of antique The lager-like cap takes top billing on John beer bottles. Varvatos U.S.A.The carton (produced by AGI McLaughlin says Shorewood) makes the package complete. designer JohnVarvatos was very involved in creating the package. He came to Arden (his licensor) with the idea of a lager-like cap that would be the focus of the whole piece. Topping the embossed, simple bottle,“the cap is so intricate,” explains McLaughlin.“Not only was it challenging to engineer, but also getting it to function to spray.” But Arden succeeded, McLaughlin notes, with the package deﬁnitely remaining true to the brand, identiﬁable to the designer’s collection. Getting that cap, says McLaughlin, required “too many production meetings—as did get-

ting it assembled, and getting it to work.” The cap is comprised of “at least four separate pieces,” he says, “with not just a silver ﬁnish, but a slight antiquing process.”The Arden team also had to ensure that the Zamac, “big cap construction” was not top-heavy. McLaughlin credits Metal Dynamics for working on the cap, and says the supplier was a big partner in getting it to function. But the delighted consumer may take all the development work for granted as he pops the spring-like sprocket and the cap lifts up and back, remaining on the bottle for one-handed easy closure when you snap it back into locked position—and the sound and feel of a satisfying click. NPD’s Grant notes why the fragrance has been a huge hit at counter. “Innovative and beautiful, John Varvatos packaging stands out in a sea of fragrances,” she says “The newest brand in the franchise, Star USA, is cool and sleek and at the same time nostalgic. ”

Inspired by a Songstress During ﬁscal 2011, Arden executed one of its biggest coups: an exclusive global licensing agreement with Grammy-winning recording artist, Taylor Swift, to develop and market her own line of fragrance products. Arden’s ﬁrst year—and ﬁrst launch—with pop star Taylor Swift has amounted to an unprecedented success. Grant says celebrity scents tend to appeal most to consumers who want to feel closer to their favorite celebrity. Leveraging that insight, Taylor Swift’s Wonderstruck fragrance incorporates charms on the bottle that have personal signiﬁcance to Taylor and her fans.

White Diamonds Fragrance Turns 20 In March 2011, Elizabeth Taylor, one of Arden’s most promi-

In women’s [fragrance], says Victoria Gustafson, leader

nent trademark licensees, passed away at

of the SymphonyIRI Beauty Vertical, “Eliz-

the age of 79. The two-time Oscar-winning

abeth Taylor White Diamonds remains a

actress was also notable in the celebrity fra-

runaway No. 1 seller and managed a mod-

grance business for her many perfumes, in-

erate dollar growth in a declining cate-

cluding Passion (launched in 1987), and

gory—not an easy feat.” She adds:

White Diamonds (launched in 1991), which

“Continuous advertising support keeps

remains the most successful celebrity fragrance to date and

Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds relevant for fragrance

continues to be a bestseller. In 2011, White Diamonds cele-

consumers and is what it takes to succeed in this chal-

brated its 20th anniversary.

lenging category.”

26 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

January/February 2012

Beauty Company of the Year: Excellence in Packaging

Arden partnered with Swift because of her incredible appeal and huge numbers of fans throughout the world.As they worked to create her ﬁrst fragrance package, capturing her genuine personality was number one for the fragrance launch that climbed to the top of prestige sales charts in OcTaylor Swift drew huge crowds at tober 2011. Macy’s for the launch ofWonderThe name “Wonderstruck, her first fragrance. struck” was inspired by lyrics from the song “Enchanted” from Taylor’s best-selling album “Speak Now,” which is available in 48 countries, and achieved Gold, Platinum or Multi-Platinum status in over a third of those nations. In creating the bottle and carton, McLaughlin says he spent time visiting Swift in her loft-like apartment in

January/February 2012

Nashville. Her eclectic style and personal mementoes, many with a whimsical or vintage note, played a large role in the design of the bottle and the carton.They chose the name of the fragrance ﬁrst, then set out to create a fantastical bottle. McLaughlin points out “the interesting ﬁnish” they selected for the bottle. “It’s a unique, challenging holographic-like speckle which doesn’t sparkle until the light hits it,” he explains. It is a ﬁnish he discovered at SGD. “When I saw that ﬁnish, which had never been done before, I wanted to pursue that technique… the magical quality,” says McLaughlin. Sheherazade Chamlou, vice president of sales and marketing, SGD, explains the technique:“The shimmer eﬀect on the bottle is a technical innovation because it is a special material which is new to fragrance bottle decoration. SGD worked in close collaboration through various samplings to achieve the aesthetic balance between the dosages of purple tint and shimmer eﬀect. In fact, the bottle takes on diﬀerent dynamic looks depending on sur-

beautypackaging.com

Beauty Packaging • 27

Beauty Company of the Year: Excellence in Packaging

rounding lighting and colors in curtain panels hanging on oversized windows in the room.” her loft apartment, and a fabric colMcLaughlin says the whole lection amassed during her extenconcept of the ﬁnish played on sive travels.The frame is reminiscent the nameWonderstruck and gave of a design element that appears it a unique, mystical ﬁnish. But on her album covers. while they were thrilled with the McLaughlin says this rainbow eﬀect it also presented project proved to be “a lot problems with photography and of fun.” He says Swift eﬀects from in-store lighting, wanted to be involved in which had to be remedied. everything, and that, “She is He adds that while Wonderexactly as she appears—very struck was the ﬁrst fragrance genuine, a class act.” Swift’s eclectic collections played a starring role in the package to feature the eﬀect, With such a great success design of the bottle and carton for Wonderstruck. “now that other vendors have story, I asked McLaughlin if seen it, material vendors will there might be a ﬂanker in probably shop it around.” the works. He wouldn’t commit, but said it is a possibility. The bottle’s other appealing charms (literally)—the antiqued gold trinkets that adorn the bottle—were handpicked Counting Down the Hours byTaylor and are reminiscent of her unique style.The Mora- What is next for sure—and keyed for success—is this vian star, dove and birdcage charms are signature decorative month’s re-launch—in new packaging—of a skin care elements that evokeTaylor’s whimsical ﬂair. The charms ap- product ﬁrst introduced by Elizabeth Arden herself in 1930. pear once again within the intricate detail of the embossed Eight Hour Cream, known as the “all-in-one beauty tool,” cap, capturing Taylor’s love of hidden messages.The ﬁnish- earned its name from its eﬀect on skin that healed eight ing touch to the package is a gold embossed 13, which fans hours after the formula had been applied.This apricot-colwill recognize asTaylor’s lucky number. Jackel produced the ored balm is also credited with helping to relieve chapped, cracked dry skin, soothing redness and minor scrapes and, cap and charms. The carton (achieved by Cultech) is a modern day when it comes to beauty, serving as a multi-tasking mustpatchwork, which recalls the many fabrics Taylor has col- have for everything from grooming brows to glossing lips. While Eight Hour Cream has been available over the lected on her travels. Its colorful design was also inﬂuenced by Swift’s personal décor, including sweeping years, the latest edition of the tube features modernized,

Red Door Update Marks 100 Years Red Door, Elizabeth Arden’s classic, signature fragrance, was

a high-gloss finish

introduced in 1989, and inspired by the namesake iconic sa-

accented

lons which first opened in 1910. In honor of its 100th an-

gold. In 1990, the

with

niversary in 2010, Elizabeth Arden re-launched Red Door in a

original Red Door

new bottle and package design. The limited edition fragrance

was honored with

package was encased in a 100th anniversary edition sleeve,

a FiFi Award for

reflecting the history of the Elizabeth Arden landmark build-

Women’s

ing. The Red Door bottle was modernized in a red glass de-

Packaging of the Year—Popular Appeal. The original package

sign, reflecting the famous Red Door, and the red carton has

was designed by Marc Rosen.

28 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

Best

January/February 2012

Beauty Company of the Year: Excellence in Packaging

upscale packaging, with attractive graphics, a soft touch and a double cap highlighted with red. Both old and new renditions showcase the Elizabeth Arden name and the globally recognizable Red Door logo. McLaughlin faced the multiple dilemmas of “how do we upgrade a product created by Elizabeth Arden herself? How do we coordinate with new development? How do we upgrade and not alienate the consumer? And in all markets? McLaughlin said it is a more important SKU in some markets than others, and while I guessed Asia, McLaughlin surprised me by answering England and Europe. In fact, he says that Eight Hour Cream was the No.1, most mentioned, skin care product in England in 2011. With this product, too, McLaughlin had to focus on “how to satisfy everyone” and how the updated packaging would work for duty-free, travel and worldwide markets. Again, he notes the importance of “looking at the whole business and all outlets and regions.” He says they “made a lighter fresher package” with 8 Hour as a graphic.They added an attractive push cap with an embossed red cap inserted into the push cap, which “proved challenging,” he said. The red inner cap shows through. The ﬂat surface of the cap is punctuated with (4) 8s in various sizes highlighting the pattern of 8s subtly covering the soft touch tube punctuated by the iconic Red Door logo. Arkay Packaging produced the complementary carton. It was ambitious to create a cost-effective package as a tube, notes McLaughlin, because any custom cap requires custom engineering.The result was a soft touch tube with a semi-satin ﬁnish. Other SKUs will take on a similar look and feel as the brand takes priority in the coming years.“What we’re

creating,” he adds, “is a cohesive brand in which all sub brands will strengthen each other.” McLaughlin emphasizes the importance of integrating the carton and tube or bottle from a merchandising point of view—for travel retail as well as for Sephora, for in-

Your Global Source for Custom Closures

CONGRATULATES ELIZABETH ARDEN

Company of the Year: Excellence in Packaging www.cnpkg.com

January/February 2012

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Beauty Packaging • 29

Beauty Company of the Year: Excellence in Packaging

Old (L) and new renditions of Eight Hour Cream showcase the Elizabeth Arden name and the globally recognizable Red Door logo, but the latest launch packs more punch.

stance. As always, the Arden focus is on how it will look at the launch as well as how it will be perceived weeks later on counter at a retail store.

30 • Beauty Packaging

It’s all apparently paying oﬀ.According to Beattie in the 2011 Annual Report:“We are very pleased with the momentum of the iconic Elizabeth Arden brand. Sales of Elizabeth Arden branded products increased by 8% in ﬁscal 2011, and we expect continued growth of the Elizabeth Arden brand in ﬁscal 2012.This ﬁscal year, we are launching an exciting and comprehensive global repositioning of the Elizabeth Arden brand intended to modernize the brand and make it more relevant to consumers globally. Research we conducted in Europe,Asia and the U.S. indicates that the brand enjoys high awareness and a unique association with the Red Door Spa, and that these perceptions are consistent across markets. “All aspects of the Elizabeth Arden brand repositioning are well underway for a global introduction into the market beginning in ﬁscal 2012.This involves bringing a uniﬁed look and feel to market, including contemporary packaging, a streamlined product line-up that should result in a more productive SKU assortment, digital communications, updated retail store counters, a revamped brand logo and several exciting product innovations.As we roll out the Elizabeth Arden brand repositioning in 2012 and into 2013, we expect it to be a major driver of organic growth of the brand for ﬁscals 2013, 2014 and beyond… .We also expect the Elizabeth Arden brand repositioning to contribute signiﬁcantly to the expansion of our skin care business in Asia.” b

beautypackaging.com

January/February 2012

with

Written by Leah Genuario, Contributing Editor

STICKING Labels The Hello Mellow brand teamed with ILS to create digitally printed, eco-friendly labels.

Versatility and flexibility enable labels to deliver clear and compelling brand messages.

URBAN DECAY RELEASED Allnighter and De-Slick, extra-large makeup setting sprays, it did so in clean, white bottles paired with eye-catching labels.Aglow in vivid colors, the matte labels immediately call attention to the products, while visually reminding users of the cooling formulations’ promise to keep makeup looking fresh even in harsh conditions. The brand chose a ﬂexography-printed, pressure sensitive label to accomplish its purposes. Pressure sensitive is an industry term describing a self-adhesive label. Like modern postage stamps that no longer need to be licked, pressure sensitive labels are pulled oﬀ of a release liner and permanently applied to a package. Experts agree it is the most widely used label today, and for good reason. Among its main beneﬁts is its unsurpassed versatility, which begins with the choice of base material.“The design attributes of pressure sensitive labels are due in large meas-

W

HEN

January/February 2012

ure to the virtually unlimited choice of available substrates, including ﬁlms, papers, metallized papers, foils and holographic ﬁlms,” explains Renae Kulis, global marketing director, health and beauty, home care for Avery Dennison Label and Packaging Materials. From this ﬂexible foundation, brand owners can choose from a range of printing processes and techniques.Among the various techniques available, Kulis points to the use of metallic inks, bronzing, embossing, hot or cold foil stamping and sub-surface printing. There are also decisions to be made on coatings, which aside from its util-

beautypackaging.com

Urban Decay chose pressure sensitive labels for its Allnighter and De-Slick products.

Beauty Packaging • 31

Labels

ing needs of brand owners for itarian advantages, can dramatically impact a label’s look. Extended content labels, such as these examples from Paris Art Label, speed and short runs continue to inﬂuence the label industry. have seen increased popularity in the beauty industry. “Coatings serve multiple While there are other printpurposes,” says Jonathan ing processes in existence like Tarantino, vice president of gravure and screen, ﬂexosales for Paris Art Label Co., graphic printing has historiInc. He adds that some coatcally been used in label ings are used simply to aid in printing.The paradigm is shiftlabel application, others are ing, however, as more and applied for protection from scuﬃng, scratching and other dangers, and still others are more brand owners today use digitally printed labels. Paris Art Label has introduced HD printing to its ﬂexemployed to enhance aesthetics.“We have used some coatings to give a metallic or pearl look. Other coatings are ographic side of the business, a “generally new trend,” says used to give a raised texture feeling to the label,” he adds. Tarantino, enabling the manufacture of labels with “a dot Coatings have many decorative uses that delight multi- structure so ﬁne you can barely see the values decrease ple senses.“A variety of coatings is available to add another from heavy to light print.” However, the company also indimension to a label, including dimensional varnish, glit- vests in digital technology. Tarantino adds that digital ter-added varnish, a combination of gloss and matte, mi- printing “is an excellent print method which is becoming croencapsulated inks to add scent, etc.,” Kulis says.“These a trend in the industry. Digital printing—depending upon capabilities are important attributes of pressure-sensitive la- the size of the run, machines, and printing required—is beling and allow beauty brands to diﬀerentiate their prod- generally less expensive than ﬂexographic, mainly because there is little waste in digital printing.” ucts on the shelf.” “Flexography has been the primary technology used Aside from design ﬂexibility, pressure sensitive labels oﬀer additional, more practical beneﬁts versus direct screen for printing pressure sensitive labels, but the costs and time printing, say experts.These beneﬁts include the ability to involved in this traditional method have become an unmaximize supply chain eﬃciency as well as reduce pack- wanted expense when compared to digital printing,” says Chris Carver, president and founder of Carver Graphics, aging costs. “Pressure sensitive labels are the most commonly used an industry veteran who spent many years in ﬂexographic labels in cosmetics. One major beneﬁt is if you use a label, printing before founding a company specializing in short you do not have to inventory glass, tubes or bottles that run, custom cut, digital labels.“Digital printing has greatly are directly printed. It makes your inventory control very impacted the overall printing industry in the recent past, ﬂexible and also reduces reaction time to please the end and will continue to do so for years to come.” user,” says Tarantino. Label printers see many drivers pushing digital tech“Direct printed containers and tubes are often sourced nology to the forefront. “A lot of the demand is being from overseas, requiring high minimums and long lead driven in part by SKU proliferation and supply chain eﬃtimes. On the back end, this limits ﬂexibility to respond to ciencies—reduced obsolescence, print-on-demand promarket and regulatory demands, as now both the decora- curement models—but also by the demands of the new tion and container costs are [already] incurred, and scrap- consumer marketplace,” says Popovich. “Brands need to ping inventory means wasting all of these applied costs,” stay fresh, relevant and engaging. The most successful adds Kathy Popovich, director of marketing for Innovative brands are integrating their packaging into the marketing Labeling Solutions (ILS). mix by incorporating packaging graphics into campaigns, and oﬀering regional and seasonal oﬀerings, and even limGrowth of Digital ited edition, licensed- or cause-related SKUs.” Flexibility is a key beneﬁt of using labels, and the increasDigital is the perfect solution for shorter runs because 32 • Beauty Packaging

beautypackaging.com

January/February 2012

Labels

“digital presses are able to print as little as one label, and at through screens, both in image quality and design details. a very economical price,” adds Carver. Process work with screen printing is really just okay. DigIn addition,“Our presses actually have the unique abil- ital printing removes design limitations, delivering true deity to contour cut labels to any shape or size without the sign intent in production.” use of a die.We can literally print an unlimited variety of label designs, custom cut to any conceivable shape, right More Space next to each other on the same run,” Carver says. He adds Beauty marketplace needs are not alone in impacting label that digital printing is an especially useful technology, not printing processes. Other industry pressures have brought only for brand extensions, but also for companies that need innovations to the label structures themselves. When Naturopathica Holistic Health LLC , a persmall quantities for private labeling, proformance-based brand oﬀering natural solutotypes and samples. tions in skin care and beauty In response to increased demand, digproducts,set out to reevaluate its ital technologies continue to improve. labeling and packaging strategy,it “Sophisticated digital technology is growsought to capture a modern and ing,” agrees Kulis,who sees a rapid increase sophisticated look that also comin digital capabilities in recent years, municated its brand promise: to and even months.“The biggest addeliver “A Better Beauty.” vancements have included ink Signiﬁcant changes to the technology. Improved digital platpackaging included swapping a ing and digital screen equipment yellow color scheme for a custom have enhanced the UV ﬂexo blue color, as well as eliminating screen-printing process.In addithe unit carton to showcase new tion, the sophistication of the tubes made from 30% post-conelectronics on press is also insumer waste.This package reduccreasing the ability to deliver tion didn’t pose design problems for higher quality imaging.” the United States’ market, but in Popovich of Innovative Laorder to sell the product in the Eubeling Solutions, which prints ropean Union and maintain prestilabels using digital presses, says, Naturopathica gious ECOCERT certiﬁcation, “The graphic quality of digi- Holistic Health LLC copy needed to be in both English tally printed labels is far supe- fit information in two languages on its rior to what can be achieved tubes by utilizing an extended text label fromWS Packaging Group. and French.

34 • Beauty Packaging

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January/February 2012

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Labels

Avery Dennison Label and Packaging Materials offers an alternative between pressure sensitive labels and shrink that creates a wraparound look.

36 • Beauty Packaging

“Naturally, we recognized that there wasn’t going to be enough room for all the copy, which put the brand strategy at risk of being fully realized,”says Scott Hesselink, senior designer with Elixir Design, who worked with Naturopathica. The solution was realized with a FlexVision extended text label from WS Packaging Group and its MultiVision label line.The label, which is completely water-resistant

and oﬀers a shelf life of at least two years, was ﬂexographic printed and features a patented multi-ply construction that is 100% conformable and engineered speciﬁcally for plastic tubes.The label stock is a 3ml polyoleﬁn Fasson brand pressure sensitive ﬁlm from Avery Dennison. Extended text labels, also known as extended content labels, are increasingly popular with beauty brands.“Extended content labels provide brand owners the space they need for regulatory requirements, multiple languages, consumer education and health and safety warnings,” says Kulis. Beauty brands oﬀering over-the-counter sunscreen products are likely familiar with the new ruling in 2011 by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, which outlines widespread changes in how a sun protection product is marketed (see www.fda.gov/sunscreen).This and other regulatory efforts remain a driver for extended content labels, both now and in the future. “There has been a marked increase in requests for extended content labels, due in large part to the increased regulatory

beautypackaging.com

January/February 2012

Labels

requirements in labeling,”says Sean Gallagher,ILS director of innovation.“The cost for booklet labels is much higher than typical pressure sensitive, of course, but regulatory demands are driving companies to seek creative ways to meet the requirements without taking away from the brand equity.” As an alternative to booklet labels, ILS is oﬀering a wraparound label.“The wrap-around label can go a full 720 degrees, if required.The label uses a special printing technique called sandwich printing, where the ﬁrst layer of graphics are laid down, then white layers are printed to create an opaque background, then the back of label graphics are actually printed in reverse.We then use a silicone release agent allowing the label to be wrapped and unwrapped by the consumer,” explains Gallagher.

Shrink to Size Shrink labels also provide more space than a typical pressure sensitive label, enabling 360-degree graphics, though they are used mainly for visual appeal rather than for regulatory compliance.“With shrink, I see the key advantage being the look that a brand owner can achieve versus anything else. Shrink provides great shelf impact,” says Kulis. Experts have seen steady growth in this category.“The beneﬁt of a shrink over a label is you can put the shrink around very complex surfaces where a label might have an issue adhering. Also, on a shrink, you can print diﬀerent graphics. Lastly, the shrink can be used for a packaging purpose and also as a tamper seal in some cases. That way a customer can reduce cost by buying one item versus two,” says Tarantino. Oﬀering an alternative between pressure sensitive labels and shrink,Avery Dennison Label and Packaging Materials has launched its Avery Dennison Curve Appeal System and Fasson Curvy ﬁlm labels, a machine and label combination that creates a wraparound look, oﬀers the ability to manage complex container shapes and provides up to 100% more space for primary labeling, while still retaining the shelf appeal of pressure sensitive graphics, says Kulis.

colors, to creative ﬁnishes. Hello Mellow, a line of natural, hand-crafted body products that incorporate aromatherapy oils, took advantage of the labels’ versatility. It chose Terraskin, a paperless substrate, for their label material and partnered with ILS to create digitally printed labels. In line with their eco-conscious brand image,Terraskin is made primarily of calcium carbonate, is non-toxic, and is cradle-to-cradle certiﬁed.The brand chose clean, earthy color palettes and simple graphics and messaging to make a statement. While authenticity was important to Hello Mellow,“for other clients we see visual impact or special eﬀect as a primary objective,”says Popovich.ILS is now a certiﬁed ColorLogic package printer, which has signiﬁcantly ramped up its capabilities to oﬀer metallic eﬀects, for example. But metallic touches aren’t the only way to create the special eﬀects customers crave. Popovich adds, “There are more choices than ever to accomplish this, such as varnishes that contain glitter, ﬂocking and even tactile varnishes that mimic rubber or leather or the like.” b

VisualTrends As is often the case in packaging, the main trend when it comes to labels is diﬀerentiation. Label designers have many options to add visual delights while making a brand statement, ranging from innovative substrate choice, to custom January/February 2012

beautypackaging.com

Beauty Packaging • 37

Written by Lisa Samalonis, Associate Editor

Arrowpak’s Chanel-style bottle showcases Blaze’s color-changing nail polish.

Nail Polish PIZZAZZ Trends in nail polish range from fun nail art to classic colors with a new twist. Packaging— from bottles and caps to labels and cartons—showcase the latest offerings in style.

is on ﬁre. It is set ablaze with vibrant colors, nail bling, glitter ﬂakes, crackle, at- home and salon gels, and kits with nail polish strips and press-ons with eye-catching patterns and designs. For those who choose to catch a break from the fads, the pendulum swings to reserved colors and ombré sets that provide a contrast to the fanciful options. One thing is constant: sleek and functional packaging holds it all and helps make a convincing statement.

T

HE NAIL POLISH SEGMENT

Nail Segment Shines “We are in the midst of a nail polish trend.The industry is enjoying very good sales right now.A lot of people are using nail polish, especially the newer gel polishes, and when that happens, you see new companies come out of 38 • Beauty Packaging

the woodwork,” says Jim Slowey, vice president of marketing and sales, at Arrowpak, a major supplier of nail polish bottles, caps and brushes in the industry. “Often a company that is starting out with 5,000 pieces can buy from stock, and as their business grows, they can move into the private mold as their brand develops its own identity,” he says. The nail art trend is reﬂected in category sales. In 2011 the prestige makeup segments saw dollar growth, with the nail category really taking on a shine, according to beauty market research conducted by The NPD Group, Inc. For the ﬁrst 10 months of the year,Total Nail was up 59%.

Multiple Packs The growth has spurred versatile products and packaging.

beautypackaging.com

January/February 2012

Nail Polish Packaging

“Nail color and nail packaging is trending toward multiple packs, such as 2-, 3- or 5 packs,” says Mark Pollock, vice president sales at Cosmetic Industries Inc. “For example, today in stores you see multiple packs of nail polish. In the past, a person wanted one color and multiple packs were a reason not to buy. Now, multiple packs seem to be a reason to buy.” Gold Grenade is successfully using the multipack concept for its product The New Black.The packaging and marketing of these multiple colors makes them especially attractive to consumers, notes Pollock. “Our point of diﬀerence is we pre-curate compatible colors, which is one of the hardest parts. For our ﬁvepiece Ombré set, we take nails beyond the pale and graduate from the monochrome nail to incremental colors on each nail,” says Leticia Govea,VP of marketing and production, at Gold Grenade. “Retailer response has been amazing.The New Black is now at your ﬁngertips.” The Spring 2012 Collection features ﬁve new collections, including one with sea pearl hues and a Runway Limited Edition Kit inspired by the WWD Spring “must have” colors. Currently theValentine’s kits are available at Henri Bendel, and The New Black also comes to Sephora this February. “We wanted to make The New Black very minimal but at the same time we wanted to make sure the colors were well displayed for customers to jump on trends in

Multipacks, like the one Cosmetic Industries supplies to Gold Grenade, are garnering attention.

January/February 2012

the nail category, without having to invest in full-size bottles. The transparent packaging works out perfectly,” she says.“We chose the gold header because it made the colors stand out.This year with our 2012 Spring Collection and moving forward, all of our headers will be in silver, which makes the colors especially attractive.” The multiple pack concept, which can be used with full-size bottles or smaller ones, looks great on shelf, Pollock says. He notes the product is not complicated to make, but can be challenging to assemble.

Innovation Manufacturers are taking advantage of the market surge and introducing trendy, fun oﬀerings. China Glaze, a division of American International Industries, has its ﬁngers on the pulse of pop culture and is launching the “Hunger Games” Colors of the Capitol movie tie-in nail polish collection just before Lion’s Gate releases the highly anticipated ﬁlm. The line, which is inspired by the over-thetop fashion of the ﬁctional Capitol of the nation of Panem, sports 12 colors that China Glaze’s Magnetix nail polish line uses iron filings and a magnet to create nail art. go along with eccentric characters who like extreme cosmetics, bold wigs and outlandish costumes. Another line from China Glaze that is sure to attract consumers is its new Magnetix nail polish.This six-shade collection of polishes, housed in the China Glaze signature bottle, is infused with iron powders that move when exposed to a magnet. The products ($10 each) are sold with a special magnet ($10) to be used to create three designs— a starburst, repeating arrows or diagonal lines. Blaze Nail Lacquer also heats up the nail category. It is the only FDA-approved nail polish that changes color when exposed to the sun’s UV rays. The brand features three polish lines with more than 35 color-changing

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Beauty Packaging • 39

Nail Polish Packaging

The LAQA & Co. nail polish pen, offered by 3C, offers airtight packaging and an arty flair.

shades including matte, glitter, pearlescent and ﬂuorescent colors. “The name of our product—Blaze Color Change Nail Polish—references the rays of the sun, and how quickly our colors change,” says Blaze founder, Debra Mattes. “Sunlight/or the UV rays as seen in a blaze from the sun gave us the idea for the name.The beautiful bottle displays our product well and is reﬂective of glamour and luxury.” The symbolism of the sun is key to the brand’s image. “We decided on using a sun graphic on the labeling because it’s representative of the color-changing that takes place when exposed to the sun’s UV rays,” she says.

Angular Options In the ever more crowded segment of nail polishes, Bodyography Professional Cosmetic’s new line of nail lacquers was conceptualized to make a sleek statement using package design from the get go. The soft corners of the halfounce square glass bottle, matte black slightly domed cap, and the clean white text promote the brand’s attention to detail. “The lacquer bottle was designed to be extremely clean, with the Bodyography logo the focal point on the front of the bottle.The square shape of the overall bottle

L’Oréal’s Brush Promises No Streaks Bottle Choices Blaze uses the classic “Chanel” style bottle from Arrowpak Inc.“Another popular bottle is the round ‘Brucci’ bottle,” explains Arrowpak’s Slowey.“There are over 100 diﬀerent brands that use it and more than 50 diﬀerent manufacturers that manufacture that bottle with small variations.The Brucci bottle is round and substantial looking.” Stock bottles are ideal for smaller runs.The round bottle requires one pass for decoration because it spins on the machine, whereas a square bottle involves two-pass decoration: one on the front and one on the back. However, some companies choose to make a private mold bottle that captures the essence of their company rather than using something generic. Slowey notes that customization of a bottle mold has gotten less expensive over the last 10 years because there are more companies producing nail polish bottles, mold costs have gone down, and bottle prices have not risen signiﬁcantly.“The out-of-pocket expense is not as great as it used to be so there is more variation in the marketplace,” he adds. 40 • Beauty Packaging

In April, the L’Oréal Paris Colour Riche Nail’s Pull Formula System brush will debut.The patented brush promises no streaks or mess and is designed to be precisely shaped for one-stroke ap-

L’Oréal’s Pull Formula

plication. It will be paired with

System Brush, which

The L’Oréal Paris Colour Riche nail

will debut in April, is

polish collection that fuses 42 pres-

designed for a streak-

tige-inspired shades with improved

free home manicure.

formulas. The collection, which launched in January, is designed to deliver superior shine and color intensity due to crystal acrylics, shine agents and ultra finely dispersed color pigments. The polish is housed in a weighted rectangular glass bottle featuring a gold cap and matching label. The hues fall into four mood families: Trend Setter (six shades that will be updated every six months), Iconic Muse, Femme Fatale and Hopeless Romantic.

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January/February 2012

Nail Polish Packaging

packaging and they get a cut of the proﬁts. “We wanted the packaging to be diﬀerent, to stand for something. There are so many talented young people out there we wanted LAQA & Co. to be a space for them to get their work seen,” explains Georgina Hofmann, founder of LAQA & Co.“It seemed like a natural ﬁt—using each nail polish color to inspire a unique piece of art that someone could also hang on their wall.That’s how we would like the brand to continue in the future, expanding the product line and combining color and art so both can be appreciated more.” The airtight pushbutton nail pen is supplied by 3C Inc. “LAQA & Co. was looking for a pen that would remain airtight and not leak. Testing showed this pen matched their requirements,” says Lou Della Pesca, president of 3C Inc.“This product looks very much like our automatic lip pens and our other automatic pens. The nail pen is Transparent packaging showcases colorful and pumped once and enough nail polish comes out to paint trendy nail designs, like these from imPRESS. a whole nail.” Hofmann adds that 3C’s product has served the comfollows a more modern approach to nail polish bottles, pany well. “LAQA & Co. is very much about collaborastraying from the traditional round bottle,” says Lori Leib, creative director for Bodyography Professional Cosmetics. tion, and we try to bring that to life from the box “The typography needed to be simple and elegant like packaging, right down to ‘& Co.’ which represents all of the rest of the line but was limited by the size restrictions our contributing artists.We strive to bring our customers of such a small component. The typography, tri-lingual hip, convenient, high-quality products, which is the packaging and color scheme, blend with the current essence of our brand and perfectly reﬂected through our unique packaging,” she says. Bodyography product lineup,” she explains. Finger Sweets also went square with bottles and silver caps from Cosmetic Industries Inc.“Finger Sweets was de- Instant Manicure signed to appeal to a trendier, fun audience so we decided Sally Hansen released its popular nail polish strips in a to go with a creative font in a smaller size on a square bot- folding carton from Transparent Container last year. tle,” explains owner Sheena St. Surin. “This way the brand Now, Broadway Nails imPRESS Press-On Manicure name could be read but the details of the actual nail pol- line offers another way to get a “salon-perfect maniish and color would be seen clearly. The square bottle cure” at home with its press-on nail covers.The nail kits gives a very sleek and expensive kind of feel which is why come in varied shades and patterns or more classic styles. we went with it.” “X-Factor” judge Nicole Scherzinger, the brand’s amFinger Sweets also oﬀers tools and nail art products, bassador, brings a “glam rock” style to the brand, which such as nail polish stickers in a variety of diﬀerent patterns is available in 24 nail covers in 12 different sizes, 18 coland nail art pens. ors ($5.99 each) and 18 patterns ($7.99 each) at major drug stores nationwide. Airtight & Artistic “imPRESS is fashion for your nails. It is a revolutionLAQA & Co. is a one-year-old company gaining attention ary way to apply polish…it gives the look of a gel manifor its high-gloss nail polish pens.The company commis- cure—but you don’t need an appointment,” says Grace sions up-and-coming artists to design the folding carton Tallon, senior vice president marketing, Broadway Nails. b 42 • Beauty Packaging

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January/February 2012

Writen by Lisa Samalonis, Associate Editor

Packaging Fragrance for

SENSORIAL APPEAL Advanced technology unites with sight, touch and smell for fresh and modern fragrance packages.

Top Trends

Arkay “aged” the folding carton for Kate Walsh’s Billionaire Boyfriend.

ERSATILE FRAGRANCE PACKAGING , ranging from stunning closure designs to advanced decoration techniques to high-tech dispensers and innovative labels, enables consumers to connect with the latest offerings through smell, sight and touch.

V

January/February 2012

Sustainability and eco-friendly considerations are also very important to many consumers and continue to have momentum in the fragrance category, according to Mary Ellen Lapsansky, vice president, The Fragrance Foundation. “Technological innovation is key to keeping fragrance packaging fresh and modern,” she says. The shapes of fragrance caps are also taking on a “natural” appeal. The trend for fragrance caps of a floral design continues to be popular and advanced technology makes it possible. Jack Albanese, sales engineer, Lombardi Design and Manufacturing, comments, “Floral shapes are combinations of heavy walls, complex radii and surfaces. Thanks to a sophisticated software package specifically designed for such shapes, Lombardi has become a leader in engineering these challenging designs.” Lapsansky also points out that soft forms, undefined shapes, packaging with movement as well as those with architectural shapes and design continue to be popular trends.“Fragrance jewelry (rings, pendants, bracelets) is an alternate form of packaging that allows the consumer to wear fragrance in a unique way without spraying or applying directly to the skin,” she says. “Packaging should always reflect the creativity and artistry of the industry—whether the bottles are stock bottles or new designs.”

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Beauty Packaging • 43

Packaging Fragrance

Market Uptick

with Oscar de la Renta’s Live in Love, the Justin Bieber In an uncertain economy, women consistently view fra- promotional Someday fragrance package launch on grance as a luxury they’re willing to pay for, according Valentine’s Day, and Kate Walsh’s Billionaire Boyfriend to findings from a survey by the Total Beauty Media fragrance. Justin Bieber’s promotional fragrance packGroup. “What’s fascinating is that 40% of surveyed age employs metallized polyester substrate with holowomen with a household income under $25,000 spent graphic stamping and heavy embossing for the superstar upwards of $150 on fragrance over the past 12 months,” look. Live in Love includes the use of metallized gold explains Ethelbert Williams, head of marketing, at Total inks coupled with pearl, stamping and embossing, while Beauty Media Group.“Women are simply willing to pay Billionaire Boyfriend used a simulated patina pattern over Mylar with complex multi-level embossing. for scent, regardless of the economy.” “The Billionaire Boyfriend package is a perfect exThe survey also found that scent still sells fragrance despite the influx of celebrity-endorsed products. Fifty- ample of simulating an authentic material with the goal nine percent of the 480 survey respondents indicated of getting a certain effect while maintaining cost,” exthat scent strips and in-store trials were the key drivers plains Gregg Goldman, director of sales at Arkay Packin their buying decisions. In addition, the study showed aging. “The client wanted an antique-looking piece of that while 71% of respondents in the 55+ age group metal with patina on it.We used a Mylar board and simspent $50 to $149 on fragrances over the last year, only ulated the texture with different colored dots.When you flip this carton—it is very subtle—you see a sort of aged 43% purchased fragrances as a gift. Market research from The NPD Group Inc. con- antique look.” Another challenge involved the execution of the emfirmed that fragrance purchases are on the rise. Data bossed crest logo, which is very finely detailed. Regisshowed that during the first 10 months of 2011 (January to October), total prestige fragrance dollar sales in tration was crucial because the crest and printing knock U.S. department stores reached $1.7 billion, a double- out. “The embossing register is super critical between digit gain of 10%, compared to the same time in the the cursive in the word Billionaire—it is a wisp of a line previous year. Units grew six percent with close to 30 and it had to be dead on—and the copy of Boyfriend. million units sold. This increase in fragrance sales rep- It was an exacting process,” he says. Another way to contain cost and reduce development resents the first year-to-date January to October dollar gain over the past three years for the overall category, as time involves the return to flankers, a key trend on the well as the strongest performance for the month of Oc- fragrance packaging side. Companies are intober since 2009. In addition, men’s fragrances experi- creasingly using creative decorative techenced a better performance overall (up 12% in dollars) niques and finishes for varying effects and maxthan women’s (up 9%) for January to October 2011. imum product differentiation, explains Dynamic Details Sheherazade Chamlou, Fragrance companies continue to search for ways to wow consumers without breaking their budgets.“They vice president of sales and are pushing for cost effective, inline special effects, such marketing for SGD as cold foil stamping while litho printing, pearls, irides- North America—Percence and tactile finishes (Arkay’s Touch),” notes Walter fumery Department. To Shiels, COO of Arkay Packaging Corp. “Customers aid in the process, SGD’s want anything that adds value, but does not add signif- marketing team has been The “fluorescent” lacquer, developed icant cost and that can be achieved without adding ad- highlighting the com- by SGD’s “Atelier de Creation” innovaditional operations.” pany’s expertise in decotion center, helped Mariah Carey’s This spring, Arkay’s new launches include projects ration through an annual Lollipop Splash fragrance trio shine. 44 • Beauty Packaging

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January/February 2012

Packaging Fragrance

trend presentation and participating proactively in the ideation phase of its clients’ projects. “One area of focus at SGD has been innovative lacquering finishes, which help create visual and sensorial experiences for consumers including metallic, opaque, soft-touch and iridescent lacquers, which are not easy to control during the manufacturing process,” she says. The “fluorescent” lacquer which was developed by SGD’s “Atelier de Creation” innovation center for Mariah Carey’s Lollipop Splash fragrance trio is an example of this.

Luxe Look Manufacturers are often looking for a cost-competitive approach to creating a luxury cap. Frequently this involves decorative techniques with a variety of finishes and materials married together, according to John Pyrzenski, sales director, HCT Packaging Inc. “For example, we have created a brushed aluminum look through decoration. It looks like brushed aluminum, but it is a plastic molded part.That is just an example of the types of finishes we are looking at to take cost away, but not take away from luxury,” he says. For Avon’s just-released Mark brand fragrance, Night Iris, the beauty direct seller enlisted HCT to create a complicated circular-shaped cap design that tops the slender bottle. “This cap looks like a piece of glass. It is a very thick piece of Surlyn,” explains Dennis J. AnderAvon’s Night Iris closure, from HCT, resembles glass.

46 • Beauty Packaging

son, executive vice pres- For Diesel’s Loverdose, Aptar developed a range of black tube coverings in ident, HCT, noting it is polypropylene combined with a VP4 extremely difficult to crimp pump in three sizes. make in one piece while meeting the stringent design and technical specifications. “They didn’t want to use two pieces with a polypropylene inner like a lot of fragrance caps have because it would add cost and take away from the beauty of the cap.They really gave us a challenge and it was up to our engineering staff and our manufacturing facilities to take the customer’s design and make it work as close as humanly possible to the original design.This came out really well,” he says. “These challenging designs are our forte.”

Sensory Stimulation Sensoriality, or the consumer’s overall experience with the fragrance, is a long-term trend, says Des McEttrick, market development director, North America Beauty, of Aptar beauty + home. “The act of holding the bottle and spraying the fragrance can create an intense and memorable experience.” Aptar launched the patented Sensea pump—recently used with Thierry Mugler Angel Eau de Toilette—to provide enhanced sensoriality when spraying the fragrance. “The Sensea has a notably softer actuation and delivers a steady fine mist of perfume without droplets. Many consumers prefer the soft and steady feel on spraying combined with the misty, cloudlike spray of fragrance,” she says. Differentiation is another driver in the fragrance category. “It’s exemplified by unique packaging being used to communicate and differentiate the character and

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January/February 2012

Packaging Fragrance

identity of the fragrance. Decorative bottles, customized caps, engraving and inserts are a few of the ways brands set themselves apart from other fragrances,” she says. When Aptar partnered with Diesel on the packaging of Loverdose, the two worked to communicate the fragrance’s personality. During the process, Aptar developed a range of black tube coverings in polypropylene combined with a VP4 crimp pump in three sizes. “In order to preserve the identity and integrity of the fra-

grance, a detailed study of dip tube lengths and its compatibility through all stages of manufacturing had to be considered,” says McEttrick, adding that the brand also reinforced the Loverdose identity by engraving the name Diesel on top of the VP4 metal actuator. Two brands, Lulu Castagnette and Undergreen by Versens, recently chose Aptar’s Eternelle bulb atomizer technology to create their fragrances’ elegant identities. “The packaging conveys a feeling of nostalgia and

Intricate Label Design for Artisanal Line When Anthropologie collaborated on the design for its re-

says. “Each element of Grown Under Glass is based on

cently launched Grown Under Glass private label beauty

experiential layering and has been created to enhance not

brand, artisanal fragrances and attention to detail played

only the skin but also the user’s personal space on a sen-

important roles in the process. The brand, sold at Anthro-

sory and artistic level.”

pologie stores nationwide and online, features a full body

The line’s graphics proved quite challenging due to the

care line combined with artisanal fragrance, natural for-

nature of the fluid gestural sketches. “We also wanted to

mulations and custom components.

make sure we could wrap this around the curved bottles.

Designer Kristi Head and artist and partner Anne San-

Not an easy task, and not one that most decorators want

ford, who is the creative be-

to deal with,” explains Head.

hind the products, started

“We were able to accom-

LURK, a niche art-house

plish both these things by

perfume company. Over the

doing a hand-applied water

past three years, the duo

transfer on all the bottles,

has created five small pure

which were decorated and

essential

oil

fragrances

custom molded overseas.”

packaged

in

handmade

They worked with a small

packaging. This caught the

up-and-coming development

attention of Anthropologie,

company that managed the

says Head.

factories to meet the deHead

manding expectations. “As

teamed with Anthropologie

Sanford

an artist this was very im-

to create art-driven packag-

portant to me. Drawing the

ing and effective natural

shapes of vessels from a

products.

and

Under

Anthropologie’s Grown Under Glass features hand-applied water

completely visual and some-

Glass is comprised of 16

Grown

transfer graphics on all the bottles for an artistic, natural appeal.

what romantic viewpoint

products, including body

and then seeing them be-

wash, lotion and bubble bath, and offers three fragrances

come functional was a challenge,” she says, noting that all

ROS (Rose + Wood), VER (Lavender + Green) and GRA

labels were printed with CCL Label. The Body Balm carton

(Grapefruit + Jasmine). “Combined with the art-house na-

and tags (all paper) were printed at Johnson Printing and

ture of LURK, the hand-drawn illustrations and custom-

Packaging Corp. using green energy, soy inks and recycled

shaped bottles are seemingly suited for the shop,” she

FSC paper.

48 • Beauty Packaging

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January/February 2012

Packaging Fragrance

Undergreen (L) by Versens and Lulu Castagnette are two brands sporting retro glam with the Aptar Eternelle bulb atomizer technology.

dense, luxurious spray,” says Chmiti. “Global suppliers and their customers must collaborate on packaging techniques that delight the consumer and create a superior end-user experience, and remain consistent with the core brand positioning.” b

glamour, but it also offers the benefits of modern technology,” she says. The atomizer, which has a locking system that is leak-proof with a quarter turn, allows the manufacturer to attach the atomizer before shipping so the consumer can get the full impact of the package when she takes it out of the box.

Seamless Design Fragrance companies also are turning toward lower profile packaging, which frees package design creativity, notes Samira Chmiti, product manager-Fragrance, Rexam Personal Care Division. This trend led to the creation of the ultra-low profile Panache. Employed on Chanel No.19 Poudre, this pump delivers a continuous, and exceptionally airy, light and dry spray. “Consumers look for the premium spray experience—the ‘art of spray’ makes the consumer feel special, with every daily fragrance experience. Consumers are savvy and expect their fragrance choice—no matter the price—to have visual and tactile appeal, prime quickly and provide a full,

Want to learn more? Log on to www.beautypackaging.com

January/February 2012

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Beauty Packaging • 49

2012PREDICTIONS

Written by Judy Galloway, G-group Market Research

What’s Next? Market researcher and futurist Judy Galloway previews the top new trends for 2012 and predicts how they’ll affect packaging.

EVERY JANUARY, G-GROUP Market Research researches and publishes a trend report called the G-Ometer Report, which takes the temperature of the characteristics, contours and contradictions of the culture that we believe will influence the future. To develop the report, we use a multiprong approach of market research, strategic planning and futuring methodologies. In 2012, we will live in interesting times so hold on for a wild ride. Ready or not, change is intensifying. An aging population, extreme weather, economic insecurity, blows to the U.S. middle class, physics up-ended and, oh yes, the rise of renewed sexism. Some challenges seem overwhelming but we ignore them at our own peril. On the plus side of change, there are signiﬁcant growth markets to explore including Brazil, India and China.Think globally, go where the growth is. On the downside or slow growth side, there are signiﬁcant consumer challenges, which can be thought of as new niches to be developed. Certainly, every packaging line should have highly functional, good-looking valuepriced options. Since we began developing the G-Ometer Report, we have seen technology as the driving factor that is shaping the future. We are truly in the technology age; it is all-pervasive and will play a pivotal role in the future of all categories. So, what’s next?

Turbo-ChargedTechnology The world’s running faster, faster, faster.Watch for the con52 • Beauty Packaging

vergence of social media with inexpensive connectivity and the “Cloud” to power the planet. Technology in all categories will continue its ascent, which will eventually result in singularity when the computer outpaces the brain. How will technology aﬀect packaging? Look for ways to use technology to improve product performance and manufacturing and logistics productivity. Design components that “speak to consumers.” Why not incorporate a digital reminder to the consumer to use the product on a speciﬁc schedule or engineer in an automatic re-ordering capability when the product begins to run on empty or an automatic shut-oﬀ mechanism when the expiration date has been reached and, of course, dispensing the ideal amount of product for specialized conditions? As time is spinning out of control, organization and ease of application that save consumers a nanosecond will be appreciated as well, such as color products in compo-

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January/February 2012

nents in the exact shade of the product, built-in “cannot be separated” applicators and sharpeners and step regimen products engineered to ﬁt together. Of course, technology-enhanced manufacturing and logistics for just-in-time delivery are required. But, the story doesn’t end here—the speed and sophistication of technology will also inspire a counter trend.

Silence Is Golden Silence and simpliﬁcation is an antidote to the lightning pace of new technology. As the world becomes more high-tech, look for the re-emergence of hand-crafting such as vintage, the art of the perfumer, natural home remedies, pure, organic botanical ingredients, as well as hand-blown glass components. We will see components designed by well-known artists of all kinds including painters, sculptors and silversmiths and one-of-a-kind components commissioned and handmade as commemorative pieces.

Learn to Listen The last but certainly not least trend to be aware of is the need to know.We are and will continue to live in turbulent times. Change will continue at a record pace. Instability and insecurity will increase. The best defense is a strong oﬀense.To take action you need to know what the consumers’ challenges are and where their passions lie.The best new ideas are what’s truly important and what’s profitable. The best brands and companies will strive to become brand heroes. Do your own research with consumers and with your customers and prospects and develop new ideas that surprise and delight along with research that delivers quantitative answers to your customer. Encourage your iconoclast designers and engineers, keep looking forward to the future; this is not the time to relax or kick the can down the road.Act but do not overreact, pick your shoots and look before you leap. • About the Author Judy Galloway is managing partner of G-group Market Research and founder and creator of the G-Ometer Report. [email protected]; www.ggroupmarketing.com

January/February 2012

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Beauty Packaging • 53

2012PREDICTIONS

2012

Written by Karen Grant, The NPD Group

Poised on a Platform of Unprecedented Growth

Contrary to consumer sentiment, all signs point to another prosperous year for prestige beauty sales.

EXHILARATING! THAT WORD PERHAPS BEST describes the beauty experience over the past 12 months and the feeling we look to sustain in 2012. We enter this new year in beauty after having enjoyed one of the most robust sales periods in over a decade.And, while both the mass and prestige channels have been positive, it is prestige beauty that is reigning supreme. From the stellar increases in prestige skin care, to the continued gains in makeup, to the double-digit rebound of fragrance, prestige beauty is experiencing a time of unprecedented growth. What is most intriguing about the acceleration in prestige beauty performance is the degree to which it stands in stark contrast to the overridingly lackluster consumer outlook. Historically, prestige beauty per54 • Beauty Packaging

formance followed the trend of consumer sentiments. That is not the case today.Though consumer confidence has inched back to the 2008 pre-recession levels, it remains quite shaky and is actually among the lowest levels the nation has experienced in the past 30 years. And yet, prestige beauty thrives. And, while prestige beauty growth continues at both ends of the price spectrum, it is the high-end, premium price points that are experiencing the strongest gains. Recognizing the reality that the current economic uncertainties may persist for some time, it appears that consumers are further reassessing their values and what really matters over the short as well as long term. The value of saving is recalibrated with the value of what adds a measure of joy to life.The return on investment

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January/February 2012

Tel: 516 775 0220-1 (new value equation) is emotional as well as financial. As consumers make enhanced quality of life choices, choosing “pragmatic luxuries” may mean getting just one thing, but it is one thing you (or someone you love) truly love. In fragrance, along with a reawakening of celebrity scents, high-end designer brands dominate new and have helped drive the double-digit growth in juice and ancillary sales. In makeup, with new products experiencing double-digit increases in dollars and units, the joy of color was seen with more than half of the top 25 new products (and 7 of the top 10) being from an eye or lip category. In skin care, with launches almost doubling in sales in 2011 compared to 2008, the drivers of growth were items featuring new technologies and unique benefits, particularly complexion specialist products which offer an enhanced, broader based approach to skin care. Underlying the positive sales results, across these categories we saw a shift emerging for greater depth: richer olfactive notes in fragrance, playful indulgences in makeup, moving beyond just lines and wrinkles in facial skin care.With these emerging trends, the door opens to further expand our appeal to consumers across ages and ethnicities with new features, benefits and categories.At this moment in time, when consumer sentiments are so low, it is the leveraging of these opportunities that will help beauty to sustain its ride on high. The successes of 2011 leave us poised for a robust 2012. We gain further confidence that we are in an industry that has surmounted any legacy issues from the crisis of 2009 and will surmount any challenges that may emerge in the months to come.We are reassured that the consumer loves beauty, wants beauty, and feels a need for beauty. At its core, that love is the fundamental of our industry.As we couple that love with dynamic products, engaging environments and relevant conversation, we will ensure that our future remains vibrant. •

Established 1898

Quality Assured Cosmetic Packaging Services

Formulation, blending, filling and packaging of fine fragrances. 1898-2012 1898-1998 1898-2011

Andrew A. Palazzolo 1921-1989

About the Author Karen Grant is vice president of beauty/senior global analyst, The NPD Group—and a member of Beauty Packaging’s Board of Advisors.

January/February 2012

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36 Lakeville Road New Hyde Park N.Y. 11040 Beauty Packaging • 55

2012PREDICTIONS

Written by Victoria Gustafson, SymphonyIRI

2012Trends

Beauty or Beast

?

Understanding the beauty buyer as both the consumer and a shopper will be the key to unlocking wallets in the year ahead.

BY ALL ACCOUNTS, 2011 WAS A TOUGH year for the American consumer. In addition to the “new normal” of 9% unemployment and 3% consumer price inflation, consumers were being squeezed further with stagnating income and increasing retail prices. More important, the understanding that recovery will take a long time to come was settling with consumers, who were preparing themselves for a long ride.This created both challenges and opportunities for the beauty industry. During this prolonged recession, consumers are redeﬁning the meaning of value and re-evaluating what is “nice to have” and what is essential.We’ve seen a return to branded beauty products as consumers started looking beyond just the per unit cash layout to deﬁne value; admittedly, this trend was also fueled by the higher level of in-store promotions. Consumers are telling us that beauty 56 • Beauty Packaging

products are not essential; however, beauty and personal care was the best performing non-edible department, growing at three times the rate of total non-edibles. Latest research also shows these re-deﬁnitions are highly personal. Some consumers are cutting spending across the board; some combine severe cuts in some categories with splurges in others. Deep, granular and comprehensive understanding of the beauty buyer as both the consumer and a shopper will be the key to unlocking wallets. In 2011, we saw strong evidence of the hourglass theory, which means that consumers will buy on the low and the high end of the spectrum, squeezing mid-priced brands. We don’t have to look further than two largest beauty sub-categories to see it. Out of the top 30 brands in facial skin care, six grew double digits in dollar terms in food, drug and mass outlets, excluding Walmart

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January/February 2012

2012predictions

(FDMx). Only one had per unit pricing within 10% to category average. Four of these brands carried a per unit price premium in excess of 50%. One had units that cost 30% less than the category average.This picture is almost identical to what we see in hair care. In addition, 2011 brought further proof that innovation and creating excitement for the category will result in increased sales. In the color cosmetics category, every single one of the top 10 brands posted growth in dollar terms in FDMx. What is more amazing is that the lip cosmetics category, which has been in decline for years, has turned itself around and posted a solid 4% growth in the first three quarters of 2011. The fragrance category had unique challenges with sales in FDMx steadily declining during the last decade. In the SymphonyIRI’s 2010 Beauty Survey, consumers identified this category as the least affordable and chose to leave the category altogether and not purchase fragrance in FDMx. Notably, within the top 10 fragrances, two exhibit double-digit growth. By far the fastest growing segment is alternative designer fragrances, which are an affordable alternative to higher end designer fragrances that retail for less than $10 a unit. In 2012, we expect further polarization of brands along the pricing spectrum as beauty manufacturers are repositioning their brands to adapt to the new economic reality. Mid-priced brands will be challenged to prove that they should have a place on the shelf through differentiation, relevant innovation and pricing actions. We also expect that 2012 will be a pivotal year in redefining trade spending. The ever-escalating levels of promotion are simply unsustainable. Not only are they putting extreme pressure on manufacturers’ bottom lines, but they are also detrimental to building longterm consumer brand loyalty. The category is ripe for re-definition of promotional strategy that makes sense to manufacturers, retailers and consumers and does not sacrifice long-term health to short-term, incremental sales bumps. We expect big news from the fragrance category.The category lost more than $100 million of value since 2007 in FDMx, due to a combination of consumers dropping out of the category, switching to purchasing ancillaries from stores, such as Bath & Body Works, or, for those January/February 2012

with higher income, leaving FDMx for prestige channels. Success of more affordable brands is sending a message to fragrance manufacturers to develop a very specific strategy to lure lapsed fragrance consumers back. Finally, 2012 will be a year of change and opportunity. It is poised to be a year of getting back to basics and delivering on changed consumer needs through improved brand positioning, well-defined pricing strategies rooted in granular analysis and a retail environment beneficial for all. •

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About the Author Victoria Gustafson is the leader of the SymphonyIRI Beauty Vertical. During her 15-year career, she has held various key commercial and research roles across a number of industries, with the last three years focused exclusively on the beauty industry.

Beauty Packaging • 57

Written by Jamie Matusow, Editor

NJPEC

Honors

STANDOUT PACKAGING 33rd annual event features Package of the Year award The highly regarded Package of theYear award went to U by Kotex for Kimberly-Clark. The package, manufactured by AGI Shorewood, revolutionizes the feminine hygiene segment.

NOVEMBER 17, THE NEW JERSEY Packaging Executives Club (NJPEC) held its annual gala to honor the best in packaging for entries in categories including Personal Care, Health and Beauty, Color Cosmetics, Fragrance, Technical Merit, Promotional, Stock Packaging, Sustainability, Food and Beverage and Household/Industrial. This year’s event—the organization’s 33rd—drew about two hundred members and guests to The Madison Hotel in Morristown, NJ, for a great evening of dining and networking, viewing the outstanding package nominees and vying for lots of fabulous prizes in an expansive Chinese auction. The highly regarded Package of the Year (POY) award went to U by Kotex for Kimberly-Clark.The package, manufactured by AGI Shorewood, revolutionizes the feminine hygiene segment, departing from traditional pastels with a sophisticated black box punctuated with color. It also received the Gold Award in Personal Care as well as the Market Innovator Award. A team of judges comprised of packaging industry professionals and FIT students made the ﬁnal selections from numerous entries. Packaging awards relating to Personal Care, Health and Beauty, Color Cosmetics and Fragrance packaging included:

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Peter Gould and Matt Grimaldi of Padtech

58 • Beauty Packaging

Fragrance: Flight By Michael Jordan for Five Star Fragrance, by Five Star Fragrance Health & Beauty: Kate Somerville Skin Care, LLC, by Padtech AS Color Cosmetics: Almay Intense I-Color Smoky I-Kit for Almay,byTopline Products Personal Care: U by Kotex, by AGI Shorewood beautypackaging.com

January/February 2012

Congratulations Kimberly-Clark!

U by Kotex wins NJPEC’s Package of the Year Award, Gold Award and Market Innovator Award!

We’re proud to be a part of your team.

NJPEC Review

SILVER Promotional: YSL Opium Sample Mailer for L’Oréal, by Color Optics, Inc. Personal Care: Channoine Sun Collection Tube for Channoine, by Neopac Color Cosmetics: Lancôme Juicy Tubes Gift Set for Lancôme, by Color Optics Inc. Health and Beauty: Body Drench Quicktan Instant Self-Tanner Bronze Lotion for American International Industries, by Viva Healthcare Packaging Fragrance: Beyoncé Pulse for Coty, Inc., by Curtis Packaging Corp.

Joseph Cicci of Color Optics and Peter Gould

BRONZE

(L-R): Kim Wismer, Albea; Peter Gould; George Kress, Estee Lauder Cos.

Personal Care: Pampers Kandoo ‘Corner Buddy’ Hand Wash for Nehemiah Manufacturing, by Berlin Packaging Health and Beauty: Estée Lauder Cooling Eye Illuminator for Estée Lauder, by Albéa Fragrance: Burberry Body for Burberry, by FiberMark Color Cosmetics: Mally Evercolor Endless Eyeshadow for Mally Beauty, by Topline Products

TECHNICAL MERIT Fragrance: Reb’l Fleur by Rihanna for Parlux Fragrances, Inc., by SGD North America, Inc. Fragrance: Keith Urban Phoenix for Mass Retailers, by Boom! LLC Fragrance: Calvin Klein Beauty for Coty, Inc., by Curtis Packaging Corp.

STOCK PACKAGING Fragrance: A Dozen Roses for 360 Degrees, by Standwill Packaging, Inc. Health and Beauty: Soft Whisper by Powerstick Body Wash for A.P. Deauville, LLC, by A.P. Deauville, LLC/Berry Plastics

(L-R): Sheherazade Chamlou of SGD; Peter Gould; Hedy Abramovitz, vice president Parlux Fragrances, Inc.; and Rita Poole, vice president of manufacturing, SGD

SUSTAINABILITY Fragrance: Rolled Edge Paperboard Containers for MCMC Fragrances, by Chicago Paper Tube & Can Company Fragrance: XD11 Twist for Rexam, by Rexam

STUDENTS’ CHOICE AWARD Flight By Michael Jordan for Five Star Fragrance, by Five Star Fragrance

MARKET INNOVATOR AWARD U by Kotex, by AGI Shorewood (L-R): Maureen Eustice, president NJPEC; Peter Gould; Stephen Chapman of Rexam (L-R): Charlie Hatheway, ITW Labels; and Franco Diaz, ITW Covid Security Group 60 • Beauty Packaging

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NJPEC Review

Highlights from the NJPEC Annual POY Gala

(L-R): Maureen Eustice, president NJPEC; Oliver Trevidic, AGI Shorewood; Karen Hadden Wolf, Unimac Graphics, Inc.

(L-R): Gus Davis, Boom Creative; Maureen Eustice; Joanne Del Prete, Boom; Peter Gould; and Doug Silady, Boom

(L-R): Maureen Eustice; Peter Gould; Donald Kane of Curtis (L-R): Bruno Lebeault and Darryl Laing of Viva; and Peter Gould

(L-R): Maureen Eustice; Steve Contreras of Standwill; and Peter Gould

(L-R): Jay Gorga and Jamie Matusow of Beauty Packaging with Brenda Grimaldi

(L-R): Damien Dossin of Topline and Peter Gould (R): Chris Lambert, VPI

(R): Bill Reed, Piramal Glass

62 • Beauty Packaging

(L-R): Howie Greenberg, Allstate Packaging and Jenna Smith of Smith Design beautypackaging.com

(L-R): John Schofield from Screentech/Spraytech and Peter Acerra, SGD January/February 2012

ackaging p e v i t a e r c r show fo T h e p re m i e r

C R E AT E A

- Photo: Denis Combet

UNIQUE LINK

16 . 17 MAY www.luxepack.com 2012 Altman Building & Metropolitan Pavilion

M O N A C O

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Creation:

Information / KX ASSOCIATES / T. +1 212 274 8508 [email protected]

Y O R K

CenterSTAGE Spotlighting the Pros Behind the Packaging

A few minutes with designer Harry Allen 2011 FiFi Award and Pentawards winner Harry Allen gives Beauty Packaging the lowdown on the unorthodox techniques he used—and the challenges he faced—in designing the bottle for Marc Jacobs BANG, and explains that while packaging “found him,” he likes to keep his projects diverse. Harry Allen

BP: You have won numerous awards for the fragrance packaging you created for Marc Jacobs BANG. Do you specialize in packaging for the beauty industry? HA: I do not specialize in packaging for the beauty industry, or packaging per se. I do a wide variety of work, but the beauty industry is a great consumer of design, and my ﬁrst job out of school was for Prescriptives so I have done a lot of work in the category. BP: Please describe the process of designing the bottle for BANG. Did you just take the name very literally and focus on that? Any thoughts of a gun, perhaps? HA: The BANG project was very unique. I was hired by Coty Prestige and I did not meet Marc Jacobs until after the process. They provided me with much information about the person, the brand and preliminary direction for the new fragrance, but the only concrete piece to the puzzle at that point was the name. “Bang” however is very evocative, so I just went from there. I explored many solutions—from a color burst, to a cartoon burst, to a variety of forms literal and abstract. Everyone was pretty sure from the start that they wanted to stay away from artillery. BP: Why do you think BANG captured so much attention? HA: I think the form we arrived at is very unique. I literally took a piece of metal and hit it with a hammer, and then transferred that information to the bottle.This is not the way most packaging is developed. The engineers at Coty did an amazing job realizing the project and keeping the design intent intact. It is rare that you see such an artful piece of commerce and I think that is why it has grabbed so much attention. 64 • Beauty Packaging

BP: What other packaging designs do you have under your belt? In beauty? Other? HA: Some of my most prominent packaging projects include the primary packaging program for Aveda’s color line in 1999; primary packaging for both solid and liquid fragrances for Sonia Kashuk in 2001; the First Aid Kit for Johnson & Johnson in 2005; BANG of course in 2010; and a soon to be launched, not yet announced project for MAC. BP: When are you typically brought in on a project? HA: For most of the above projects I was brought in right at the beginning, issued a brief, and kept in the process until the end of development. That is the best way to engage a designer. BP: How do you typically approach a new packaging design? HA: In general I am both practical and personal in my approach to design. I was weaned on form-followsfunction modernism, but I am a very personal designer. I try to give each of my projects a little piece of myself, or my aesthetic interests (which fortunately are very broad). For BANG, I created a signature form, by hand, and then applied it to a bottle. That aesthetic is an extension of my REALITY work. I have a whole line of products, called REALITY, that are all cast from real life. The cornerstone of the line is a piggy bank that is cast from a real pig.They are very artsy and the aesthetic is perfect for Marc Jacobs. I am very sensitive to my clients’ needs, so the perfect design is an intersection of my aesthetic, and my client’s brand. That said, I approach each project differently. I start by asking myself what a brand represents, what a cus-

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January/February 2012

centerstage

tomer might be looking for, etc., and I try to hone in on the message I want to convey. Then I get personal; I dip into my arsenal of interests and aesthetic choices and see which fit. I experiment to find a fit. I often show a client many ideas to try to find the exact match. So as important as it is to cater your work to a Harry Allen’s design for Marc Jacobs client, one BANG won both a FiFi and a Pentaward. should never lose sight of one’s own interests, likes and dislikes, because ultimately that is what the consumer will respond to.

modernist it is nostalgia that gets me in the end. I have a place in my heart for the Paco Rabanne Pour Homme bottle. Not because it is such great design, although it certainly marks an era with its clean lines and chrome detailing, but because it played such an important role in my life. I recall thinking it was such a cool bottle, and Pour Homme was the finishing touch to my beauty regimen in the late seventies. After having spent hours in the bathroom popping zits and blow drying my hair, ten or twelve squirts of Paco Rabanne was just what I needed to feel like a stud. You could smell me from a block away. It was my first real love affair with fragrance. BP: What are you working on now? HA: No packaging at the moment. Some display work for a large cosmetic brand, a couple of apartments, a yoga studio, furniture and lighting, and an award for MoMA.

BP: Any advice for up-and-coming packaging designers? HA: Packaging sort of found me, not the other way around, and I am happy that it did, but I would never want to work exclusively on packaging. I like working BP: What was the most challenging packaging project you’ve on a variety of projects across many disciplines.As much as working on one area gives you an expertise, it can worked on—and why? HA: I think BANG might be the most difficult pack- also stifle your creative juices. Design, for me, is all about aging project I ever worked on because I was never al- cross-pollination. Often, if I learn something in one area lowed to speak directly with Marc Jacobs himself. of design, it informs my work in another area. For inCommunication was filtered through Coty.That was the stance, I have designed many retail spaces and it is great deal, so I am not complaining, however, it is always to have that experience as one is designing packaging of much easier to work with the decision-maker directly. products to fill the shelves. So I guess my advice would Sometimes there is as much to learn from the designs be to keep it diverse. that aren’t chosen as there is to be learned from the designs that are. So I like being in the room to gauge re- BP: What should brands keep in mind when planning a new actions, hear nuance, etc. I am very good at processing product/package as far as the practicality of design? HA: The design process itself is a great problem solver. information and coalescing various ideas. Start with design, get practical later. BP: What is your all-time favorite packaging of a beauty— BP: What do you have to keep in mind as far as suppliers— or other consumer product? HA: From a graphic standpoint I love the logo blocks and how your vision will be transformed? on the Malin+Goetz packaging—set in descending type HA: The end product is rarely as beautiful as the rensize. It is such a smart, effective layout, and an inexpen- dering. That said, a knowledge of manufacturing, and sive design solution. the way things will go together can help one anticipate Sometimes, however, even though I am a die-hard problems and avoid a multitude of sins. •

January/February 2012

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Beauty Packaging • 65

FastTRACK Climbing the rungs of the corporate ladder

Lindal Group

Maesa Group

Robert F. Brands has been appointed president-Americas, Lindal Group, a developer and manufacturer of valves, actuators and spray caps Brands for aerosol products. Most recently, Brands was managing director of the Personal Care Division of Rexam. At Lindal, Brands will be responsible for western hemisphere P&L, operations, marketing, sales and customer relations in all market sectors, including cosmetics, household, pharmaceuticals, food industry and the technical industry. He will be based in the U.S.and will report directly to Francois-Xavier Gilbert. At Rexam, Brands was managing director of the Personal Care Division, which includes dispensing systems, makeup and home and personal care businesses. In that position he was responsible for P&L, worldwide marketing and sales, operations and R&D.

Diego Alulema has joined the Maesa Group as the new quality assurance manager (supplier quality), based in the NewYork oﬃce. He has more than 10 years’ experience at L’Oréal and ChemAid Laboratories as a quality engineer and senior chemist.

Henkel Carsten Knobel, corporate senior vice president and ﬁnancial director of Henkel’s Cosmetics/Toiletries business, will succeed Knobel Lothar Steinebach as chief ﬁnancial oﬃcer of Henkel on July 1, 2012. Steinebach will retire at the end of June 2012 after more than 30 years of service with Henkel serving since 2003 on the management board as executive vice president and chief ﬁnancial oﬃcer.

as the vice president of its Beauty and Personal Care division for the U.S. and Canada, based in Chicago.

Rieke Packaging Systems Dennis Desrochers has joined Rieke Packaging Systems as business development manager, with primary responsibilities centered on Desrochers Dispensing Products growth. Desrochers brings approximately 20 years of dispensing experience, having worked in engineering, quality, and sales and marketing functions with Risdon and Rexam, manufacturers of dispensing systems for the personal care, beauty and pharmaceutical markets.

Iléos

Mintel Group Mintel Group has named Katie Gross

Zheng

Sonia Zheng has been appointed international relations and communication manager for Iléos.

Exposure Out-and-about at beauty industry events

CIBS Presents Annual Scholarship At CIBS’ December networking luncheon meeting, the scholarship committee presented its annual scholarship to an outstanding Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) student in the package design program.The 2011 scholarship award winner is Alicia Tagliasacchi, a junior at FIT majoring in Package Design. Alicia is currently interning at Coty and aspires to enter the industry in the New York City area after graduation. Alicia was also awarded a complimentary membership to CIBS for one year and was invited to attend two luncheon meetings courtesy of CIBS in 2012. 66 • Beauty Packaging

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(L-R): Nick LoPrinzi,Ted Boccuzzi, Alicia Tagliasacchi, Mario Magali, Marianne Klimchuk, Sandra Krasovec

January/February 2012

EuroSTYLE

Written by Jonathan Ford, Pearlfisher

Classical lines and fire-polished, ribbed glass have become Tom Ford hallmarks.

Fresh Scent Bottles Lively design ideas, exquisite materials and cutting edge techniques keep the contemporary scent bottle fresh, new and on message for the brand.

A SCENT BOTTLE IS INTEGRAL TO THE experience of what’s inside. It is both a symbol of the promise therein and for the brand it represents. As such it has pushed the boundaries of design.This is an insight into how today’s designs use references, materials and techniques to keep the scent bottle beautiful, relevant and eﬀective—the ultimate brand ambassador. And it starts with a walk along the counter of a perfumery. First stop, Prada.

The NewYouth Whether or not you like its caramel overtones, Prada January/February 2012

Candy packs a punch. So too does its bottle. It is a tall, slender thing that combines an Art Deco inspired line with a color palette that shouts Warhol and Pop Art, bright and unapologetic.The result is standout and original. Walk a little further along the counter and consider Marc Jacobs’ Lola and Oh Lola! With their pink or purple bottle, topped with a blousy, floral cap, they’re no shrinking violet. Or their forerunner, Daisy, more delicate and topped with, you guessed it, daisies. Or Valentino’s new, Valentina, whose Art Deco silhouette and floral triptych neckline nod to the design motifs of

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Beauty Packaging • 67

eurostyle

Prada Candy packs a punch with its Art Deco inspired lines and a color palette that shouts Warhol and Pop Art.

all of the above. All can’t help but make you smile. Each illustrates how the scent bottle, when exposed to fresh design, new materials and manufacturing processes, can help reset the tone for a designer brand. They also represent the “new youth” in scent bottle design; the breath of fresh air that helps to keep a designer brand relevant and desirable. Up springs a new set of design codes (from molded ﬂoral stoppers to color blocking), which in turn help refresh the status quo.The result is unique, original, unexpected and desirable. New techniques are key.We are seeing more sublimation or dye diﬀusion in fragrance bottle design.This technique enables photographic quality images to be wrapped around complex shapes. Also, new spray eﬀects are being developed to have high contrasts— for example, high matte and ultra gloss. Enameling and sand blasting techniques from the luxury spirits market are being transferred to the fragrance arena, too.

bossing in the manufacturing tool enables very ﬁne detail to be achieved providing a very engineered ﬁnish. Tomas Meier is on a similar track with his ﬁrst scent for Bottega Veneta. Note the intrecciato texture, sandblasted onto the base of its crystal ﬂask: a reference to the leather weaving technique, particular to and created by the company in the late 1960s. Like Ford’s ribbed glass, it is a hallmark.Venetian glasswork and the traditional Italian carafe inspired the bottle.A brunito (burnished; a signature house color) cap and collar and a skin-colored leather ribbon clipped with a brunito butterﬂy are all BV signatures.The bottles’ design draws on already established brand codes to achieve the iconic, where Ford’s design sets them. If record UK sales for the ﬁrst scent from Jimmy Choo are a reliable benchmark, then it too is on track for modern classic status. Its bottle is a jewel-like, faceted globe inspired by Murano glass. It also brings to mind Icons, a collection of bejewelled shoes inspired by those from the archive. In so doing, it forms part of the brand’s luxury experience: a beautiful bottle or a beautiful shoe, to have and to hold.The ﬁrst scent from Elie Saab is also multifaceted.The Saab signature is his use of diaphanous fabrics that shimmer with the light, which thanks to its design, the bottle does, too. In so doing, it encapsulates the essence of Elie Saab. Both examples impart each bottle with subtle brand references, to help underpin a move into modern classic territory.

The New Niche

When Coco Chanel ﬁrst released No The New Classics 5, there was Iconic is what every new scent worth its salt (or should I nothing classay, velvet-lined scent box) wants to be.And the scent bot- sic about it; both tle is key. For Tom Ford, in creating his signature fragrance its scent and its bottle line, this lay in classical lines (again, with a nod to Art broke new terriNouveau and the ’20s and ’30s) and ﬁre-polished, ribbed tory. This was a glass, which has now become a TF hallmark. His latest,Vi- time of elaboolet Blonde, has a gold plaque debossed with the Tom rate Lalique and Ford logo and the scent’s name riveted onto the ribbed Baccarat confecbottle front.The gold plaque motif is repeated on the box, tions. The bottle borstriking against its sumptuous purple. He has combined rowed the simple, artisanal glasswork with contemporary, industrial riveting, clean-cut shape of a which reinforces his bottles’ now iconic appeal. Micro em- man’s aftershave tonic, 68 • Beauty Packaging

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Marc Jacobs’ flowery caps broke creative ground and led to blooming fragrance sales.

January/February 2012

eurostyle

onto which she stuck a simple white Canson paper label stamped with black.This graphic clarity lends itself to a new scent category—let’s call it the new niche. It is typiﬁed by the house’s Les Exclusifs, a collection of over a dozen scents in identical bottles designed to attract a more discerning customer, looking for a scent outside the mainstream. Both Dior and Hermès have similarly exclusive, idenValentino’s Valentina features an Art Deco tically bottled niche colsilhouette and floral triptych neckline. lections, where the perfumer is given carte blanche to create original fragrances. It’s worth noting a few contemporary design points. Both Chanel and Dior incorporate heavy, magnetic lids. The magnetic pull reinforces their weighty feel, which is associated with expense and luxury. It also emphasizes the “click” sound as the cap is put back on the bottle. This concept isn’t new in the language of the luxury item.The thought that goes into how a lipstick clicks as it is replaced is inspired by the sound of a sports car door closing. Indeed, bottles and caps are being designed with car engineering in mind—a quality feel when they slide closed and clicks when they locate, providing a feeling of reassurance and quality. Note too, the simplicity of the embossed, paper labels, which have been lovingly stuck onto each bottle by hand. Chanel’s creative vision with No 5 has become a byword for classic. Today, creative vision or the wish to push the boundaries in scent bottle design has broken new ground.Thanks to the legacy of industrial design processes, which continue to push boundaries, practically anything is possible. This has given rise to conceptual, sculptural forms, which wouldn’t look out of place in an art collection, let alone on a woman’s dressing table. And for the brands they symbolize, they speak volumes. January/February 2012

The New Conceptualists For Narciso Rodriguez’s second scent, Essence, the designer Ross Lovegrove replicated the sculptural form of rippling water right through to its glistening surface. This is a prime example for where industrial design processes embrace all areas of design. It made possible a visual metaphor for the scent’s translucent spirit. Gaultier pioneered newness in the early ’90s with his male and female torso bottles. One of his latest, Kokorico for men, pushes the idea further. At first glance, it is a silhouette of the maestro’s head (drawing from an 18th century tradition).Turn the bottle and it’s the side view of a man’s torso. Turn to the other side and it’s chin, lips, nose and forehead, like an African sculpture. To achieve this precise shape, its designers used a 3D digital model. This enabled glassmakers Heinz and Pochet to achieve the precision required to create a bottle with such fine detail. Of course to the purist, it is about the scent inside—without a good juice, there is nothing. For the British perfumer, Roja Dove, this accounts for the simplicity of his scent bottles: “very linear and very simple so nothing detracts from the natural beauty of the scent itself,” he says.Yet he allows for the ﬁnest embellishments, such as simple gold lettering on the side, following a more tra- For Narciso Rodriguez’s Essence, the designer Ross Lovegrove replicated ditional technique of screen printing onto the the sculptural form of rippling water glass and ﬁring at high right through to its glistening surface. temperature so gold and glass fuse.The design of the bottle remains integral to the scent and the brand it represents. • About the Author Jonathan Ford is a designer and Creative Partner of Pearlfisher www.pearlfisher.com

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PackagingSPOTLIGHT

Written by Jamie Matusow, Editor

The Japanese Agarwood bracelet has two blue Aventurine semi-precious stones, which represent good luck; theTuscan Fig bracelet has six Howlite semi-precious stones, which represent patience in gemology; the French Clary Sage andTunisian Neroli bracelets both feature semi-precious color-treated jade, which, in ancient Egypt, was the stone of love, inner peace, harmony and balance; the Madagascar Orchid bracelet is made with wooden beads, celebrating the origin of the fragrance—the exotic rain forests of Madagascar.

Wearing the Fragrance Package A new jewelry line takes its cue from antique vessels as it brings a modern out-of-the-bottle approach to fragrance packaging.

IT SMELLS WONDERFUL, IT’S FUN TO WEAR and you never have to discard the beautiful package.What could be better than an irresistible fragrance that’s contained in an exquisite jewelry collection, which serves as the “ﬂacon?” If you add in eco-friendly, exclusive, exotic, nonbreakable and travel-friendly, the “fragrance without a bottle” collection becomes even more enticing. It’s all part of the innovative packaging concept from fragrance guru Lisa Hoﬀman: scent-infused jewelry that holds her line of ﬁne fragrances. “My Fragrance Jewelry collection is meant to embody my longtime mantra, ‘Wear fragrance your way,’ ” says Hoffman, “which is about giving women the freedom to experience fine fragrance in a way that suits their lifestyle—be it in a luxurious candle, a stylish bracelet or through a silky, sumptuous hand cream.The 70 • Beauty Packaging

Fragrance Jewelry allows women to control where and when they wear scent, coupled with an eye-catching piece of jewelry.” The Fragrance Jewelry collection is comprised of a variety of bracelets and necklaces that highlight a round metal-plated charm with spherical wood beads inside.The scent-infused beads feature a proprietary delivery system that slowly releases perfume as they are exposed to air. Hoﬀman says,“The reﬁllable eco-friendly wooden beads that come with the bracelet are the scent equivalent of a bottle of Lisa Hoﬀman ﬁne fragrance.” I asked Hoﬀman about the development of the idea, and if she thinks women need a new way to look at fragrance packaging. “I think there are really exciting opportunities in fragrance packaging,” she responded. “The perfume bottle

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January/February 2012

packagingspotlight

Each piece of jewelry comes with a jar containing enough scented beads for six refills that together equal a full bottle of Hoffman’s fragrance.

has, historically, been the package that celebrates the beauty and uniqueness of the fragrance itself. So many resources are spent on the creation of fragrance packaging. And with the Fragrance Jewelry collection, the beauty of the packaging—and all the eﬀort that went into its design—doesn’t stay on your mantle.You’re able to wear it as an expression of your ﬁne fragrance.” Hoﬀman’s design was inspired by a pair of Victorianera earrings she received as a gift from her husband.When they were crafted in the late 19th century, it was considered in poor taste for women to display their sparkling gems during the day, so jewelers made pieces with snapoﬀ “fronts,” so women could conceal their bling on the way to dressy occasions. The concept proved ideal for Hoﬀman’s modern collection, inspiring both the silhouette and the functionality of the ﬁligreed charm. Plated with antiqued sterling silver and bronze, 14-karat gold and rose gold (depending on the scent held within), each charm is distinguished with the logo belonging to Hoﬀman’s fragrance line. Fragrances are available in her ﬁve signature scents:Tunisian Neroli, Japanese Agarwood,Tuscan Fig, French Clary Sage and Madagascar Orchid. The wooden beads are made in the U.S. with Hoﬀman’s fragrance and very ﬁne wood ﬂour from organic conifer trees grown in sustainable and replenished tree farms and forests, and so will eventually biodegrade.The January/February 2012

beads’ round structure, combined with a proprietary scenting method, maximizes scent retention and delivers maximum levels of fragrance. Once the life of the scent has been depleted—in one to two weeks—the consumer can simply open the casing and replace the beads. Each piece of jewelry comes with a jar containing enough scented beads for six reﬁlls that together equal a full bottle of Hoﬀman’s fragrance. Each jewelry purchase ($65) includes reﬁll beads, which are matched with the color/theme of the bracelet and scent. For example, green-tinted jade beads, an oxidized sterling silver-plated charm and silver beads reﬂect French Clary Sage’s fresh blend of clary sage, cotton and watery ﬂoral notes, while amber-hued resin beads mix with rose goldplated brass and howlite stone beads and a rose gold-plated brass charm to evoke the rich scent of Tuscan Fig, with its ﬁg, vanilla bean, honeysuckle and coconut wood notes. When re-ordering, you can purchase the same scent or a diﬀerent one ($20) to go in your bracelet.Thus, you can mix and match—and endlessly reuse the original package (so to speak). The bracelets launched in December on LisaHoﬀmanBeauty.com, and the necklaces became available the ﬁrst week of January.The oﬃcial launch will be on HSN on February 22. Wear one or pile them on—but either way, you’ll never have to leave the beautiful packaging at home. •

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BrazilianBEAUTY

Written by Gustavo Piqueira, Casa Rex

Cosmetic Circus Brazil’s Ikesaki store thrills customers with an atmosphere and products far different than more traditional beauty retail venues.

FOLLOWING THE ACQUISITION of Sack’s (the biggest online retailer of fragrances, cosmetics and toiletries in the whole speciality distribution sector in Latin America), Sephora—the leading chainstore beauty retailer in the world—intends to open branches in Brazil. After all, this country has one of the world’s largest and fastest growing beauty markets, and has been attracting more and more foreign companies. But what is the organization going to find around here? Most definitely Ikesaki Cosméticos, Brazil’s biggest cosmetics group, which sells to both end users and the wholesale market. With four outlets in greater São Paulo, its most famous store is in “Japan Town,” which is in the district of Liberdade, where more than 16,000 products are displayed in 2,000 square meters of space. It welcomes about 5,000 Large baskets of nail polish can be found scattered around Brazil’s Ikesaki. visitors on a typical Monday. At first glance, Ikesaki and Sephora could be perceived as being very similar: Both A Different Look offer a broad range of beauty items for the retail market. At Ikesaki, rather than being grouped by individual But a quick visit to each store is enough to make one brands like at Sephora, diverse categories include tradirealize that apart from the type of products they sell, tional retail items (such as shampoos, conditioners, there is little else that they have in common. While at makeup, nail polish, face creams); electric accessories like Sephora we can see ample space with designated areas hair strengtheners and hair dryers; and products for spefor brands, meticulously designed and illuminated, the cialists and professionals (nail polish carts, aprons and look is very different at the Brazilian store.Very differ- furniture for beauty salons)—all arranged on generic ent indeed. shelves. Therefore, the merchandising and display of 72 • Beauty Packaging

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product. “DepilWax,” for example, is a granulated wax for hair removal, but it looks more like a pack of pasta. Or the “Soft Fix Gel Cola” hair gel, which resembles a large tube of white glue—just look at the red and black layout, which would be much more readily associated with office supplies by consumers when they go to the store in search of glue. The “Retok Hair” range features packaging that is shaped like makeup such as lipgloss and lipstick, when in reality it is used to touch up grey hairs. However, the name of the manufacturer is more reminiscent of a B movie from Hollywood than from the universe of Cosmetics: it is called “Anaconda.” Topping the list of bizarre products—limited in reality only due to the space constraints of this article, oth‘Cosmetics Street Market’ Approach So it is better to forget about the “Cosmetics Walmart” erwise we could go on all day—we have “Ração concept and to define it more as a large “Cosmetics Capilar” (Capillary Rations), which gives us the imStreet Market” selling exclusively cosmetics, rather than pression that we have just entered a pet shop. Or could the usual miscellaneous selection of goods on offer.After it be that the consumers who generally buy this prodall, where else do you find large baskets of nail polish uct want their hair to be as soft and silky as the fur of scattered around haphazardly, looking like discounted their pets? Yes, we know the above descriptions may scare you inibulk sales of products, or a salesman walking about and tially. People pushing each other about, products that look singing out the promotions on a megaphone: “Buy six hair colorings and get a complete treatment on the spot! Just like food, strange brand names, items that seem imported but aren’t, untidy shelves, sales reps with megaphones... one half dozen! Don’t miss it, only today!” Not to mention the exotic products—common in any But don’t be fooled:At Ikesaki you will undoubtedly ﬁnd typical street market.Although most of the goods are local, what you are looking for and you will certainly have at ﬁrst impression it seems that they are imported, since much more fun than when visiting Sephora or any other many labels display the names and variants in English. But of the more “traditional” cosmetic stores. • when you get closer, you notice that the other informaAbout the Author tion is written in Portuguese. “Hair Spray—Fixador de penteado,” “Hair Butter—Máscara de Hidratação” and Gustavo Piqueira heads up Casa Rex, a design agency with offices in Sao Paulo and London, which serves clients such as “Almond Repair Intensity—Condicionador.” Some of these items fool us twice with their packag- Unilever, to smaller organizations. Piqueira has won many ing because, besides showing the name in another lan- Brazilian and international design awards. More info: guage, they also bear no resemblance to a cosmetic www.casarex.com.br products at Ikesaki more closely resembles a supermarket than a cosmetics store. So, rather than classify it as the “Brazilian Sephora,” isn’t it better to call it a “Cosmetics Walmart?” In reality,Walmart (or any other supermarket) is a little more organized than Ikesaki. Chaos reigns supreme there: a mass of consumers intermingling with sales reps, professionals and technicians, all fighting and pushing about for space to get to the products.The store seems to have grown without any plans for expansion, seemingly improvising on a temporary basis. The aisles that connect the floors are narrow; the ceiling is low; the lighting is dark and the shelves are often a total mess.

Casa Rex Wins 19 Creativity Awards Casa Rex, a multi-award winning design consultancy with offices in São Paulo and London, recently received a number of awards in the 41st Print & Packaging Competition, promoted by Creativity International Awards. Chosen out of more than 1,100 submissions from 35 different countries, Casa Rex received 19 awards for diverse projects ranging from book covers to packaging design. One of the agency's awards in packaging design was for Dove Dual Reconstructor.

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JustOUT Retail product launches with shelf appeal

Benefit Sends Faces to Hervana

Guerlain’s Noir G Has It All

The latest cheeky treat from Benefit Cosmetics is Hervana ($28), a pretty paper compact with a heavenly swirl of face powders that combine for an ethereal flush. The product’s packaging tells a flawless story, beginning with the colorful sunrise/sunset image on the front and the product name punctuated with an illuminated halo. Inside, four rainbow-hued powder shades rotate to light up the purple box.A mirror inside the lid and a purple handled brush complete the divine package. As the instructions direct: Swirl and sweep for good karma. More info: www.benefitcosmetics.com

Guerlain’s Noir G mascara ($49; reﬁll $26) combines the extravagant luxury of a jewel case with an extraordinary formula for perfectly deﬁned eyes. The fabulous case, which plays on the brand’s award-winning Rouge G de Guerlain Jewel Lipstick Compact, features a reﬁllable wand applicator, making it convenient and easy to switch to a new one as soon as you need it. Just pull the top to reveal the reﬁll; click the top to release and add another. To precisely apply the luxe 3D volumizing, lengthening and curling formula, pull on the case and with a click, the hidden mirror is revealed. Add a quick twist and the brush appears for exceptional lash results. More info: www.guerlain.com

Hey Dude Skin Care for Men Spiffs Up Packaging Hey Dude Skin Care ($9.99 to $17.99) has revamped its product line with a new series of men’s skin care and grooming products, and enters the marketplace with packaging that they say better serves the needs of today’s modern Dude (see photo on left, below). By replacing its past series of branded products (on right, below) with a simple, step-by-step system of items comprising a system it calls Dudiﬁcation, the brand addresses all of the major grooming needs of guys—exfoliation, shaving, post-shave treatment, moisturizing and sun protection. Hey Dude has even combined functions like blending a deep facial cleanser with a superior shave gel in its Dude Cleansing Shave Gel. Its DudeWash 3in-1 goes even further by combining body wash, shampoo and shave gel with not one, but two pheromones “proven” to attract the ladies. More info: www.heydudeskincare.com

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Biobliss Patch Diminishes Wrinkles in an Hour Biobliss, known for skin rejuvenation via transdermal patch technology, has introduced Biobliss Eyes ($20), a noninvasive system that claims to be clinically proven to diminish the appearance of surface wrinkles and help restore younger looking skin. The ﬂexible, ultra-thin patch is applied directly to the sides of the eyes, immediately pushing anti-wrinkle ingredients to the skin, and producing visual results in less than an hour. Each patch comes pre-ﬁlled with a special formulation of ingredients known for clinical eﬃcacy: skin hydrating hyaluronan, collagen stimulating peptides (Matrixyl 3000), skin tightening Moroccan Argan fruit extract (Argatensyl) and antioxidant protecting vitamin B5. More info: www.biobliss.com

Boob Lift in aTube atTarget

OPI Springs Forth With Holland Collection

Women looking to increase their cup size may now opt to forgo surgery thanks to a highly touted $15 “wonder cream” that’s being promoted as a “boob lift in a tube.” The company behind NIP + FAB Bust Fix claims clinical trials have proved this bust booster can help to lift and tone the bust area in as little as 28 days.The product has reportedly been selling over 1,000 tubes a minute. According to the manufacturer, the bust serum is formulated to visibly plump, smooth and ﬁrm the skin around the bust and decollete, adding a volume increase of 7% in just 28 days. What’s the “secret?” It contains CellActive-FORM, “a plant-based complex of active ingredients which supports the natural process of lipid deposition, lending fullness to the bust, so it will reshape the contours of the cleavage area and optimally accentuate the feminine features.” For best results, the manufacturer states it should be used twice daily. More info: www.target.com

As fabulous ﬂower bulbs burst into color this coming spring and summer in The Netherlands, so too will nails everywhere thanks to OPI’s Holland Collection for Spring/Summer 2012 ($8.50 each). Inspired by the European country’s range of stunning shades—as seen in vivid tulips, windmill-dotted hillsides and bustling canals—the collection’s 12 shades oﬀer a mixture of neutrals and brights.And if you’re a sucker for fabulous names like I am, OPI has outdone itself this time. A sequence of brights, including an orange (A Roll in The Hague), a coral-red (Red Lights Ahead…Where?) and a pink (Kiss Me on My Tulips) complement cooler shades of purple (Dutch’Ya Just Love OPI? andVampsterdam), while neutrals (Gouda Gouda Two Shoes, Did You ’ear About Van Gogh? and Wooden Shoe Like to Know?) oﬀset two shimmery blues (I Have a Herring Problem and I Don’t Give a Rotterdam!) and a creamy green (Thanks a WindMillion). More info: www.opi.com

January/February 2012

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DesignCENTER Components and creative collaborations from suppliers

ABA Packaging Corp. Now Represents Promens EcoSolutions Line in the U.S. ABA Packaging has signed an agreement to represent Promens Packaging’s ECOsolutions line in the U.S.The move allows ABA to further enhance its oﬀerings, and it gives Promens Packaging “on the ground” sales and technical support for the line in the U.S. Made entirely in France by Promens, the ECOsolutions Air-Free “bag-inbottle” airless dispenser and bottle system provides a “green” approach to airless packaging. Made of 100% plastic, this system oﬀers ﬁve stock capacities from 50- to 500ml, and provides superior barrier properties to protect the formulas from oxygen and other contaminants. Its unique four-piece all-plastic dispenser can handle a wide range of product viscosities. To further enhance the ecofriendly value, the outer bottle portion of the system can be made with high percentages of PCR eﬀectively and safely as only the collapsible inner bag or “pouch” contacts the product.ABA provides complete decorating support. More info: www.abapackaging.com

Gojo Premiers New Dispensing System Gojo Industries, Inc., has released its new Gojo ADX Dispensing System, which it says is designed for reliability and easy servicing with features that raise the bar for sustainable packaging and delivery systems in business and institutional hand hygiene. The ADX system dispenses Gojo and Purell sustainable formulations, including a complete line of new USDA bio-based and EcoLogo certified formulations in sustainable packaging. Gojo says the system has been in development for four years.ADX systems feature oversized sight windows, clear refill bottles made from easily recyclable material, and colorful formulations that make it easy to check product levels.The sustainable packaging 76 • Beauty Packaging

includes Gojo Sanitary Sealed refills made with Gojo Smart-Flex technology including recyclable PET using 30% less material than HDPE bottles. The sustainable packaging design features refills with removable pumps for easy recycling. More info: www.gojo.com

Kaufman Container Adds Squeezable Powder Round Increased demand in powder applications and new dispensing technologies led Kaufman Container to create a custom 4-fl. oz. (approximately 2.4 oz. of powder) MDPE Round with a 31mm special neck finish to accompany powder and sprayer closures. In particular, this new bottle works well with a Roto Powder dispensing cap, which simply twists open and with a

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squeeze of the bottle, allows powder to be dispensed. and bottles include various sizes, aesthetic styles and conThis bottle-closure combination—currently stock avail- ﬁgurations. In addition, these components allow for meable in white, with custom colorization available upon tered dosing which is ideal for skin care regimens.”What’s request—allows for ease of use, more directional dispensing of product and also frees up the user’s hands during application. The MDPE material offers maximum squeezability. A wide variety of decorating options is available directly from Kaufman. More info: www.kaufmancontainer.com

GCS Provides New Bi-Color Dispensing Closures for L’Oréal GCS manufactured the custom bi-injected dispensing closures to cap the contemporary containers for L’Oréal’s new packaging for the Western European Elsève shampoo and conditioner range. The new full-width, highgloss, semi-transparent PP closures in two sizes elongate the tall ﬂat oval shampoo packs, which range from 200- to 400ml in size, improving the size impression and on-shelf

more,Wilson says,“The design of the package ensures an easy ﬁlling process and the airless technology increases the shelf life of the products.” More info: www.taikiusabeauty.com

Albéa Produces Multipart Cap for Valentina Albéa produced the perfume cap for the fragrance, Valentina By Valentino. The perfume cap is made of galvanized ABS, topped by a black PP sphere and a Teﬂon-coated spray system. The elegant assembly is decorated with reﬁned white visibility. The signature darker-colored ﬂat-surfaced ﬂip- and pink alutop provides a large footprint for the headstand condi- minum ﬂowers, set tioner packs to diﬀerentiate the complementary products. on a PP base just Closures were delivered in 26 color combinations. below the cap. UV More info: www.gcs.com bonding was used to create a subtle efTaikiUSA Intoduces Airless Jar fect that belies the Taiki Group has expanded its airless package oﬀerings to complex techinclude airless jars and bottles.According to Taiki, the air- nique. The caps less jars are ideal skin care packaging options for sensitive for the 30- and and low alcohol content formulas.“This additional prod- 50mm bottles were manufactured in France at Albéa’s uct oﬀering enhances our liquid dispensing category,” says Parigné L’Évêque site. Jan Wilson, vice president of development.“The airless jars More info: www.albea-group.com January/February 2012

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CosmoprofPREVIEW

Written by Lisa Samalonis, Associate Editor

Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna

Marks 45 Years of Beauty Once again, Cosmopack and Cosmoprof events will run concurrently this year.

Worldwide also enjoyed its greatest results ever with 2,300 exhibitors from 58 countries/regions showcasing their products to nearly 40,000 international buyers, up 8% over 2010. In 2011, about 65% of exhibitors were international. Cosmoprof exhibits will include an array of beauty products such as cosmetics, fragrances, hair care products and accessories, nail instruments and nail care products, herbal cosmetics, and beauty equipment and tools. This year, the show includes a special focus on the Spa industry. Cosmoprof Bologna 2011 The aim of Cosmoprof Worldwide is to optimize exhibitors’ presence in the fair and maximize the development of business opCOSMOPROF WORLDWIDE BOLOGNA 2012 will bring the global professional beauty industry together on March portunities through initiatives tailored to facilitating con9-12, 2012, at the Bologna Fairgrounds in Bologna, Italy. tacts between exhibitors and visiting buyers, according to The event, which is scheduled a little more than one week SoGeCos, producers of Cosmoprof/Cosmopack. SoGeearlier than last year, is expected to host more than 2,300 Cos acts as a beauty partner for businesses operating in exhibitors. Once again this year, Cosmoprof will run con- this industry. currently with Cosmopack, the packaging exhibition, located in Halls 19 and 20. Show hours on all days run from Packaging Scene 9:30am to 6:30pm. Cosmopack, a leading global exhibition in the packaging industry, will once again host suppliers showcasing their Global Event most advanced and innovative packaging solutions.TechThe beauty trade show covers cosmetics and personal nical seminars are also planned. care products and packaging, contract manufacturing and Exhibitors for Cosmopack include those supplying private label, professional hair and nail care and equip- packaging materials and devices, packaging machines and ment. Now in its 45th year, Cosmoprof has been one of equipment, packaging systems, ready-made packages, the world’s most important international events in the measuring tools and devices, handling machines and beauty and cosmetics sector. In 2011, a total of 177,287 equipment, warehousing devices and storage systems. • visitors walked the show halls. Last year, Cosmoprof More info: www.cosmoprof.com 78 • Beauty Packaging

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AdINDEX Company

Page

Phone

Fax

Website

ABA Packaging Corporation .................CV4 .......................800-443-9799 ....................631-758-4295 ....................www.abapackaging.com AGI Shorewood ......................................59...........................................................................................................www.AGIShorewood.com Allstar Packaging Corp. ...........................11 .........................732-967-5795 ....................732-548-6458 ..........................www.allstarpkg.com Arkay Packaging Corp.............................19...................631-273-2000 ext. 444 .............631-951-3157 .................................www.arkay.com Arrowpak................................................41 .........................718-849-1600 ....................718-849-1343 ..........................www.arrowpak.com Bormioli Luigi USA ...............................47 .........................516 576-1478 ....................215 672-7115.....................www.bormioliluigi.com Brad-Pak Enterprises...............................49 .........................908-233-1234 ....................908-233-9656 ...........................www.brad-pak.com C+N Packaging, Inc. ..............................29 .........................631-491-1400 ....................631-491-1299 ..............................www.cnpack.com Carver Graphics ......................................34 .........................973-714-8502 ......................................................................carvergraphics.com CIBS.......................................................57 .........................212-582-2975....................................................................www.cibsonline.com Cosmetic Essence Innovations .................23 .........................732-888-7788 ....................732-888-1994 ................www.cosmeticessence.com Cosmogen Inc..........................................9 ..........................201-302-9396 ........................................................................www.cosmogen.fr Cosmopak Corporation ...........................5 ..........................516-767-9119 ....................516-767-1044 ........................ www.cosmopak.com Cospack America Corp. ..........................25......................... 732-548-5858................... 732-494-0339 ............... www.cospackamerica.com Dapy Paris...............................................27 .........................212-517-5339 ....................212-717-0894 ..........................www.dapyparis.com Diamond Packaging ................................21 .........................800-333-4079 ....................585-334-9141 ............www.diamondpackaging.com HBA Global Expo...................................13 .........................212-600-3033 ....................347-962-3889............................www.hbaexpo.com HCT Packaging Inc. ............................Cov. 3 ......................212-586-0303 ....................212-586-2233.....................www.hctpackaging.com Innovative Labeling Solutions ..................37 .........................888-860-2457........................................................................www.ilslabels.com J. Palazzolo Son, Inc.................................55 .........................516-775-0220 ....................516-328-9789.....................www.jpalazzoloson.com James Alexander Corporation ...................7 ..........................908-362-9266 ....................908-362-5019 ................www.james-alexander.com Lageen Tuboplast Ltd...............................53 .........................609-257-3417 .................................................................www.lageentubes.com Lombardi Design Manufacturing.............3 ..........................516-546-4400 ....................516-546-4413 ..............................www.lombardi.cc LUXEPACK New York...........................63 .....................................................................................................................www.luxepack.com Norden Sirius Machinery Group..........Cov. 2 ......................908-707-8008 ....................908-707-0073........www.siriusmachinery.com/USA Packaging Distributors & Manufacturers..30 ........................................................................................................................www.pdmorg.org Paris Art Label Co Inc.............................33 .........................631-648-6200.................................................................www.parisartlabel.com Promens ecosolution ...............................15 .........................800-443-9799 ............................................................www.ABApackaging.com SGD North America ...............................45 .........................212-753-4200 .....................................................................www.sgdgroup.com Viva......................................................50-51 ......................416-891-2509 ............................................................www.viva-healthcare.com WS Packaging Group, Inc........................35 .........................877-977-5177 ................... 920-487-7074.................... www.wspackaging.com Zhejiang B.I. Imp.&Exp.Co., Ltd. ............36 .................... 0086-571-89936659......................................................... www.bi-packaging.com

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EventsCALENDAR Jan. 18 Women in Flavor and Fragrance Commerce (WFFC) annual business meeting: Power of Your Networking, Boulevard Five 72,572 Boulevard,Kenilworth,NJ,732-922-0500. More info: www.wffc.org Jan. 19 CEW:Women & Men in Beauty Series-NewYork: Marketing Beauty to the Hispanic Consumer, 5:30-7:30pm, Harmonie Club, 4 East 60th Street, New York, NY. More info: www.cew.org Jan. 30 Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors (ICMAD) presents “Expand Your Business Internationally: The EU Market,” 8am-9am, 2012 ISSE Show, Long Beach, CA. More info: www.icmad.org Feb. 15 CIBS Networking Luncheon, 12pm, The Manhattan Club at Rosie O’Grady’s, 800 7th Avenue, NewYork, NY. More info: www.cibsonline.com

Feb. 16 CEW Newsmaker Forum Leadership Lessons with ULTA Beauty’s president & CEO Chuck Rubin, 5:30pm-7:30pm, Harmonie Club, 4 East 60th Street, New York, NY. More info: www.cew.org Feb. 16 ICMAD Cosmetic Technical/Regulatory Forum, Balboa Bay Club & Resort, Newport Beach, CA, continental breakfast starts at 8am; meeting begins at 9am. More info: www.icmad.org March 7 CEW Beauty Awards Product Demonstration, Metropolitan Pavilion, 125 West 18th Street, New York, NY. More info: www.cew.org March 14 CIBS Networking Luncheon, 12pm, The Manhattan Club at Rosie O’Grady’s, 800 7th Avenue, New York, NY. More info: www.cibsonline.com

For an expanded listing of events, please go to www.beautypackaging.com

Major Meetings Jan. 29-Feb. 2 Extracts at the New York International Gift Fair, Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York, NY. More info: www.extractsny.com; 800-272-SHOW (7469)

Feb. 8-9 PCD Congress Exhibition, Espace Champerret, Paris, France. More info: http://www.pcd-congress.com/en

Jan. 30-31 Elements Showcase 2012, 500 West 36th St., NewYork NY. More info: www.elements-showcase.com

March 9-12 Cosmoprof/Cosmopack Bologna, Bologna, Italy. More info: www.cosmoprof.com

March 28-29 Feb. 8-9 Luxe Pack Shanghai. Shanghai Convention Center, Aerosol & Dispensing Forum, Espace Champerret, China. Paris, France. More info: [email protected] More info: www.luxepack.com 82 • Beauty Packaging

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