A x\ A M A Z O N ANiDKS rOlTR
AN A M A Z O N ANDES TOUR BY MARGARET BOOTH WITH
AN I N T R O D U C T I O N
GEORGE
M.
BY
BOOTH
P U B L I S H E D F O R T H E A U T H O R S BY
E D W A R D ARNOLD, LONDON FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION
MC.MX
CONTENTS INTRODUCTION (G. M. B.)
1
DIARY (M. B.)
21
MAP S H O W I N G AUTHORS' PARA TO LIMA
ROUTE
MAP S H O W I N G A U T H O R S ' IQLTTOS TO LIMA
ROUTE
MAP S H O W I N G A U T H O R S ' J E S S U P I TO OROYA
ROUTE
FROM 'fa face.
FROM 49
FROM
APPENDIX—CAMP FOOD AND E Q U I P M E N T
75
11:»
This small volume, put together for the amusement of ourselves and our travelling companions, and possessing no merit but that of telling accurately the story of what proved to be a very simple journey, is printed privately for those friends and relations who care to get a glimpse of what must always remain a wonderful episode in our lives.
MARGARET
S,- GEORGE BOOTH
With the Author's Compliments.
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INTRODUCTION B Y G E O R G E M. B O O T H I N t h e spring of 1908 it Avas my pleasant fortune to u n d e r t a k e a journey from London to Lima, via t h e Amazon RiAer. I h a d three objects in view. The first Avas to visit P a r a and Manaos—Amazon towns served by t h e vessels of t h e Booth Steamship Company, Limited—(Manaos being 900 miles u p t h e Amazon River near t h e junction with t h e Negro) a n d t o inspect in Manaos a harbour enterprise m a n a g e d in London. The second was t o reach Iquitos, some 1300 miles beyond Manaos ; Iquitos is t h e capital of Loreto, a t r a n s a n d i n e province of Peru, and served by direct steamers sailing m o n t h l y from Liverpool under t h e managem e n t of t h e Booth Steamship Company. H e r e Messrs. Alfred Booth a n d Co. haAre built a h a r b o u r under t h e t e r m s of a Peruvian concession. My t h i r d object Avas t o p e n e t r a t e to the limit of water navigation and cross t h e Andes to reach Lima. I Avished to s t u d y certain possibilities of navigation a n d t h e problem of connecting Peru on t h e Pacific with Peru on t h e Amazon, and t o discuss with t h e G o v e r n m e n t of Lima various forms of developm e n t t h a t m i g h t affect t h e business enterprises in Avhich I Avas interested. As far as Iquitos all Avas plain sailing, b u t inA
2
AN AMAZON-ANDES TOUR
formation upon the next 1500 miles of journey was scanty and not encouraging. I proposed to follow the Rivers Ucayali, Pachitea and Pichis for about a thousand miles and then take to the Avoods and folloAv a track known as the " Pichis Highway," about 150 miles long and bringing one to the large Aillage of La Merced, Avithin a few days* ride of Oroya, the limit of the Lima-Oroya raihvay. Such a journey once successfully accomplished Avould, I felt, find me in Lima Avell equipped to deal more or less efficiently Avith the business points I had in ATieAAr; but tempting as it Avas both as an adventure and a commercial opportunity, I should never have had the courage to undertake it alone. My Avife intrepidly determined to come, and we AArere accompanied by Doctor Claude Horton and joined at Iquitos by Mr. W Harold Tregoning, Avho AAas the engineer-in-charge of the harbour construction at Iquitos. Our itinerary Avas as folloAvs : ITINERARY OF RIYER JOURNEY Feb. ,. ,, ,, March „
14 17 19 29 3 7 16 v-
dep. arr. dep. arr. dep. arr. dep.
London. Lisbon. Lisbon. Para. Para. Manaos. .Manaos.
R.M.S. Lanfranc. ton.-.
6640
900 t.,_,
_
ISS. Perseveranca, river
OOAA
2o arr. Iquitos. , \ ' , . steamer, 600 tons. 01 T ,, 31 dep. Iquitos. J April 127 arr. Esperanga. Bocca Pachitea. J"1 7 Bccca Pachitea. J-Launeh Eliza. 50 tons. 13 dep. Esperanca. In canecs. 13 air. Puerto Bermudez. 15 dep. Puerto Bermudez. 15 arr. Puerto Jessupi.
2200
„
T
-,
Miles from Para.
2950 3150 3175 3200
INTRODUCTION
3
T h u s out of t h e 45 days betAveen P a r a and Jessupi, 28 were spent in travelling, or an average of 115 miles a d a y against a steady current. After Iquitos Ave always anchored at night. We also h a d several strandings, a n d some repairs to our propeller blades h a d to be undertaken, so t h a t our speed seemed r e m a r k a b l y good. My Avife k e p t a diary from Manaos to Lima a n d I m a d e some notes. The folloAving short introduction based thereon is intended to give some general idea of t h e Amazon. The Amazon is indeed a Avonderful river. I t s proportions, as far as Avater is concerned, are colossal a n d entirely Avithout rival. Imagine a r river so deep t h a t OA er 900 miles from its m o u t h fifty fathoms can be plumbed for more t h a n a mile in width. Actually t h e night before Ave reached Manaos a large steamer sank, a n d Ave next morning, drawing '22 ft., passed unwittingly over i t ! B u t right a t t h e m o u t h t h e Amazon makes herself evident'—the great blue sea with all its vast weight of tide is tossed right back on t o itself, a n d t h o u g h t h e tide ebbs and flows for m a n v a mile u p t h e Amazon, for more t h a n fifty miles t h e sea is discoloured brown by t h e discharged sediment t h a t sweeps on Avith tireless Aigour in t h e heavily laden water of the river. " T h i r t y per cent, m u d in t h e Acre, sir," said Captain W a t r i n , of t h e Perseveranca, to me one day. B u t I m u s t t r y t o describe t h e network of rivers t h a t one by one become engulfed in t h e main AOAV
4
AN AMAZON-ANDES TOUR
of t h e Amazon valley From north and south they floAv as Avell as from t h e great r a n g e of t h e Andes in t h e Avest. Their n a m e is legion, t h e i r limit a n d source almost i n v a r i a b l y unknoAvn. Greatest a m o n g t h e m is t h e R i o N e g r o — b r a n c h i n g n o r t h a t Manaos. T h e Orinoco a n d t h e Negro rise in a lake c o m m o n t o b o t h , a n d t h e Avhole of this great watercourse has been explored. The Negro, as m i g h t be expected, is black ; t h a t is, when t h e Negro meets t h e A m a z o n t h e Avaters look black a n d white b y contrast. T h e colour is t h a t of a Scotch or Irish p e a t b u r n , a n d is due to a mass of t a n n a t e of iron t h a t exists along its Avhole course. Such a colour in t h e sun !—churned up by t h e swiftly t u r n i n g propeller blades of the ri\-er launch in which our expeditions Avere made, b u r n i s h e d copper or b r o n z e — a n d not black at all. An e x t r a o r d i n a r v contrast to t h e Amazon, the Negro carries no sediment ; a tumbler of the Amazon clears quickly to water almost Avhite, h a v i n g a sticky deposit at t h e b o t t o m of the glass: b u t t h e Negro is clear as crystal, and has a most beneficent effect on all submerged iron, Avhich neA'er rusts, b u t gains a fine coat of some protective n a t u r e — a cause of much economy to those Avho own floating property at Manaos. P e r h a p s the Madeira is the most i m p o r t a n t branch river from a commercial point of A'ieAV. It joins the Amazon from the south, just beloAV Manaos. and close to a little town called Serpa or Itacoatiara. The Madeira is not navigable for more t h a n about 400 miles, where t h e Falls a n d R a p i d s of San Antonio p u t an end to naAigation
INTRODUCTION
5
by steam. F r o m this point, a 250-mile railway is to be built t o a point above t h e falls ; a most i m p o r t a n t Avork. as t h e Madeira flows from t h e richest of all t h e rubber districts in South America. At its sources t h e land is Bolivian and P e r m i a n as Avell as Brazilian, so chronic friction a t San Antonio m a y be expected. I t is not easy to continue my description Avithout a m a p , b u t t h e most striking peculiarity of t h e Amazon RiA*er a n d its ramifications is this. I Avill t r y to make it clear. I a m going to describe a triangle m a d e by a side running east t o Avest— from Serpa, mentioned aboA'e, to Iquitos in Peru— a side 1500 miles in length. Thence due south by t h e Ucayali for a b o u t 1500 miles, and thence back t o Serpa—the hypotenuse of m y right-angled triangle. NOAV this t h i r d side is t h e course of t h e Madeira RiAer (and railway) a n d confluents, and a t t h e south corner a carry of a mile or two joins up t h e system. Engineers haAe dreamed of a short canal, a n d of t h e creation of a great route right round my triangle. This is of importance because r u b b e r gathered in t h e southern corner has an alternatiA^e route by river t o t h e n o r t h or t o t h e east, a n d those Avho manage t h e carrying t r a d e of this A'ast Avatershed need to gauge in Avhat Avay t h e produce of t h e southern corner can be freighted most economically t o t h e consuming a n d distributing centres of t h e Avorld. Still more i m p o r t a n t is t h e international aspect. Iquitos, t h e western limit of t h e n o r t h e r n side of my triangle, is t h e capital of t h e province of Loreto, t h e increasingly prosperous t r a n s a n d i n e territory
0
AN AMAZON-ANDES TOUR
of Peru ; a n d Peru, b y every m e a n s in her poAver, is endeavouring t o h a \ e t h e up-river p r o d u c e collected here for fiscalisation. Now within my big triangle are several similar Avater systems all producing t h e same south-Avest corner Avhere produce can go t w o Avays, until finally you reach t h e J a v a r y , t h e river frontier of P e r u a n d B r a z i l ; this m e r leaves t h e Amazon at T a b a t i n g a , and is parallel, more or less, t o t h e Madeira, t h e Purus, a n d m a n y others. R u b b e r - g a t h e r e r s — • ' seringeiras : ' —ascend this river, g a t h e r rubber from either bank w i t h o u t interference, a n d coming doAvn Avith it to T a b a t i n g a can either r u n a feAv miles u p to Iquitos a n d ship their collection of produce from Peru, or can come 900 miles doAvn ri\"er and ship from Manaos as Brazilian produce. At present Peru has a loAver e x p o r t d u t y on rubber, so t h a t an enormous a m o u n t of rubber groAvn and gathered in Brazil is shipped a n d fiscalised at Iquitos. Peru, furthermore, has loAver import duties, so t h a t the gatherers can b u y supplies for their expeditions more cheaply in Iquitos t h a n in Manaos. Peru a n d Brazil in a feAv years' time will be competing in every conceiAable way for this export and i m p o r t t r a d e , a n d t h e country t h a t enforces a Avise tariff Avith energetic development of up-river facilities—canals, light railways, &c.—Avill be master of a great source of reA'enue. B u t t o m y picture of the river I m u s t t u r n again. I t is possible to ascend the main Amazon in ocean steamers as far as Iquitos—2200 miles from t h e m o u t h ; and for this whole length t h e Avild virgin forest extends on either bank Avith a mono-
INTRODUCTION
7
tony that would be intolerable to many, and yet Avith a variety of groAvth that gives a good opportunity to the student of trees and timber, and Avith a surprising and sudden gift of colour in skv and Avater that burns itself indeliblv into the mind.
OFFICE AXD MANAGER S HOUSE OF MAXAOS HARBOUR, LTD.
At dusk psrhaps the river Avidens into a sea, and the full horizon is left resting on its Avaters as in mid-ocean, Avhile the great banks of clouds, t h a t for an hour or so have been threatening rain, groAv ruddy Avith the gloAV of the departed sun. Yes, threatened rain indeed ; frequently as fulfilled a menace as you can dream of. For hours the Avater is literally churned into foam by the storm. So thick and so opaque is this rain that, our captain says he has often lost sight of the bank—not more than thirty yards aAvay !
«
AN AMAZON-ANDES TOUR
And all day and all night great trees a n d islands of grass float down, a n d doAvn, a n d d o w n . A v e r y innocent-looking branch m a y be all t h a t is visible of some huge t r u n k a h u n d r e d feet long ; a great strain on the pilots, who ring t h e engines " stop " or " full speed a s t e r n , " as t h e case m a y be, to
PRIVATE ENTRANCE TO THE MANAO> HARBOUR HOUSE
avoid or lessen t h e impact with the suspected or evident monster. At night, lying aAvake in one's h a m m o c k , it seems t h a t t h e engine-room bell goes every few m i n u t e s ; a n d often when standing forward t h e bell has rung m a i n ' seconds before my u n t r a i n e d eye has picked out the coming danger. Great evesight these pilots have. Nothing was visible t h e other night to a n y of our party, and vet land, water, islands, corners, logs. &c. &c., all seemed illuminated to the little felloAv Avho is our senior pilot. The ship's captain sees Avell too,
INTRODUCTION
9
and is excellent in t h e emergencies Avhich frequently arise. One favourite trouble is to anchor on to a large sunken tree. To saA'c t h e anchor requires patience a n d ingenuity The most beautiful tree is t h e so-called " cotton "
A CLEARING ON THE AMAZON, SHOWING FINE " COTTON
TREES
tree, which grows t o a splendid height, as straight as a mast, Avith a fine umbrella-like foliage, branching at t h e t o p . The gracefulness of these trees is usually hidden by t h e masses of other growth, b u t where a clearing has been m a d e by an enterprising settler Avith taste, a few specimen trees left for shade a n d effect give t h e true conception ol t h e forest giants here, a n d of their shape and peculiarity. The most valuable Avood—of course t h e
10
AN AMAZON-ANDES TOUR
rubber-tree is t h e most valuable A m a z o n p r o d u c t —is a h a r d smooth black tree ; it h a s no b a r k , and resembles unpolished ebony more t h a n a n y other wood. The tree grows tall, b u t never obtains t o a girth of more t h a n three feet, a n d often t h e tallest trees are mere spindles. " A verv fine
INDIAN* HUT AND J E T T Y ON PILES IN THE ' ' NARROWS
Avood for inlaying B u t t o m a r k e t this Avood costs more t h a n t h e m e r c h a n t in Manaos or P a r a will p a y for it at present, so t h e hard Avoods of the A m a z o n Valley are neglected, and giVe a verv individual look to t h e river banks t h a t I haAre neA'er seen elsewhere. In some p a r t s t h e Indian h u t s s t a n d on piles, a n d t h e Avash of our steamer in t h e narroAV part above Para seemed to SAvamp t h e m mercilessly. To each little pile j e t t y Avere a t t a c h e d a canoe or two. a n d t h e little black children are t a u g h t to
INTRODUCTION
11
run to their boats t h e m o m e n t t h e t h r o b of t h e steamer is heard, by d a y or by night, and paddle out into t h e stream, Avhere t h e light craft easily float t o t h e switchback-washing Avater, Avhereas Avhen anchored t h e y m u s t inevitably fill and sink at their moorings. The '* Narrows '" a t their narroAvest measure
THE
NARROWS
just OA'er a h u n d r e d yards Avide, a n d t h e curves are a m a z i n g . W e steamed along in a 6400-ton steamer, t h e Lanjranc (the flagship of t h e B.SS. Co.), frequently missing one b a n k or t h e other Avith proAV or stern by a feAv feet, for t h e Avater is deep right into t h e trees. Small riA'er boats r u n into t h e Avoods Avhen t h e y hear t h e Avhistle of t h e ocean liner. Where t h e river is wider settlers n a t u r a l l y t r y to choose high ground three to t w e n t y feet above t h e river a n d m a k e as large a clearing as possible, in order t o groAv b a n a n a s , mandioca, cacao, &c.
12
AN AMAZON-ANDES TOUR
All or nearly all depend for luxuries on t h e r u b b e r to be found in t h e neighbourhood. T h e big felloAVs have cattle and pigs. All h a v e foAvls. a n d fish is a b u n d a n t , t h o u g h not easily c a u g h t . There is verv little traffic on t h e Amazon, and m a n y hours pass Avithout t h e sight of steamer or launch. Canoes are p r e t t y frequently seen and
THE
" NARROWS
now and t h e n a large raft floats lazily by. with a house on it a n d some people, often Avith cattle and chickens, a n d a great supply of green grass attached. Families travel m a n y hundreds of miles in this A\ay to m a r k e t their produce of rubber and buy fresh supplies " in t o w n . " returning by launch. P r o b a b l v such a t r i p is made once a Aear, the rest of t h e time produce and supplies come and go by launches, a n d t h e whole family works hard on the place. B u t Avhen the season is oA'er a n d t h e last of t h e crop gathered, a change of air is Avelcomed. a n d a couple of months pass b y with much a m u s e m e n t . We got a nice p h o t o of one of
INTRODUCTION
13
these rafts, which I hope Avill develop successfully. The Amazon water did not taste very nice t o me ; it is very m u d d y , b u t nothing else is d r u n k by t h e Indians. AVIIO scoop it u p in a cup, and t a k e
THE " LANFRANC " IN THE " NARROWS
as much as they Avant. There is no evidence of trying t o get Avater from t h e streaming current : children almost lap it u p from t h e pools or backing eddies, Avhere there m u s t be considerable stagnation. At all big stations a great pile of cut Avood lines t h e front, for use instead of coal Avhen the launches have b u r n e d u p their stock. I t is Avell cut in even lengths a n d split into p r e t t y even thicknesses, and piled neatly in fifties. This m u s t represent
14 AN AMAZON ANDES TOUR half the work of the station. The splitting is done with big American axes. As far as our experience Avent. the mosquito
BOAT DRILL OX R.M.S. " LANFRANC "
grew worse and worse as Ave travelled inland. In Para they bite, and can give malaria or yelloAv feA'er. In Manaos they worry you and are also risky, In Iquitos at times it is impossible to sit still or pack or wash, or do anything but sit closely protected by a net with a killing-bottle in hand. Up the Ucayali a boiler-piercing brand comes on to the scene, with a proboscis an eighth of an inch
INTRODUCTION
15
long, biting t h r o u g h coats and trousers m a d e of strong khaki, a n d settling t h r o u g h flannel or duck as t h o u g h it Avere tissue-paper. Luckily all chance of yelloAv feArer is over b y this time, although b a d malaria mosquitoes exist evervAvherc. On t h e Pachitea t h e mosquitoes are large, b u t not very
BOAT DRILL ON R.M.S.
LANFRANC
numerous, a n d a beast t h a t on t h e Amazon only troubled us on occasional visits to I n d i a n settlem e n t s — t h e pium—is b o t h numerous and hungry. They h u r t less t h a n mosquitoes, b u t AVOITV dreadfully, a n d leave a little round red m a r k Avhere they have bitten, which t u r n s black in a few days. The spot ne\-er itches as badly as a mosquito bite. The only toAvns of importance on t h e main Amazon in Brazil are P a r a at its m o u t h , and Manaos, 900 mile^ u p (and just off t h e main river on t h e Negro). P a r a has a difficult port—fast
l(j
AN AMAZON-ANDES
TOUR
c u r r e n t s a n d silting b o t t o m . Manaos could harbour t h e fleets of t h e w o r l d - m i l e s a n d miles of deep clear water, scarcely o n e - q u a r t e r of a knot of current, a n d no silt of any k i n d . I n P a r a there are said to be 180,000 people ; m Manaos about 80,000. Manaos looks imposing because boats come right u p to t h e splendid h a r b o u r Avorks and passengers can walk ashore along floating roadways as in Liverpool at t h e Prince's landing-stage; a n d in m a n y ways t h e city is finer than P a r a : more spacious a n d b e t t e r laid out. The big boats a t P a r a h a v e t o anchor several miles beloAv the t o w n a n d all freight a n d passengers go up relaunch, t u g a n d lighter, &c. The stages for landing are clumsy a n d i n a d e q u a t e , and the Avhole frontage of P a r a seems verv sordid compared with Manaos. All this m a y be changed if the P a r a Harbour C o m p a n y does its Avork Avell. but their task is r a t h e r arduous ; so far much moneA' has been spent, a n d there is nothing to show except plant a n d machinery for doing Avork : no actual harbour work begun. P a r a is the capital of the State of Para ; Manaos of t h e S t a t e of Amazonas : this latter is a huge territory of rich rubber lands. Both States are keenly a t t e m p t i n g to develop their resources by means of improved riA'er service to distant places, and by railway Avhere rapids and falls p u t an end to travel by launch or canoe. In 1!»07 the export of rubber from t h e Brazilian Amazon was 32,000 tons, valued a t £16,000,000, and about half comes from each p o r t — P a r a and Manaos. The only other product of A^alue is the
INTRODUCTION
17
Brazil nut, of which a b o u t 8000 tons, valued a t £80,000, are shipped annually. As t h e river produces nothing else b u t a little h a r d Avood for floors, &c., and some clay for bricks, t h e ships t h a t e a r n ' t h e rubber t o E u r o p e a n d America return heavily laden Avith CAerything from paA'ing-stones to pianos,
SAILORS CUTTING GRASS FOR CATTLE, STANDING IN PUSHED INTO THE RIVER'S
CANOES
EDGE
and from kerosene, flour, cement, resin, lumber, & c , t o pins, needles, jeAvellery a n d hair-oil—and of this latter a huge q u a n t i t y , for the coiffure is much attended to. Coffee comes from southern States of Brazil, and also tobacco. Cattle a n d fodder come from t h e Argentine, a n d some cattle from the States. B a n a n a s , plantains, m a n d i o c a and fish are Amazon food staples. To finish t h e s u m m a r y of t h e Amazon capitals, B
18
AN AMAZON-ANDES
TOUR
I m u s t describe Iquitos, t h e capital of Loreto, P e r u . I t has 20,000 i n h a b i t a n t s , t h r e e - q u a r t e r s I n d i a n , a n d t h e rest E u r o p e a n a n d PeruvianSpanish. L a s t year it e x p o r t e d 2000 t o n s of rubber, worth a b o u t £1,000,000. H e r e also there is a nice little h a r b o u r c o m p a n y a n d landing-stage a r r a n g e m e n t s , in m i n i a t u r e t o Manaos. This toAvn of Iquitos, t h e only Atlantic p o r t of Peru, and the
VIEW OF THE MUELLE AND LANDING-STAGE AT IQUITOS
second in m a g n i t u d e of trade in the Republic of Peru, is served by a boat every month from Europe. a n d every six Aveeks from the States. Say tAventy departures and calls a year, Avith an aA^erage arrival (in 1007) of 1000 tons per vessel, or 20.000 tons per year ; just ten times the Aolume of the export. Of this q u a n t i t y about 4000 tons are coal, sold in Iquitos for £4 a ton, the rest being general cargo. Launches go out in large numbers, and t h e y seem by no means too numerous as yet. Iquitos has no cable or wireless connection: but Massisea, 700
INTRODUCTION
10
miles u p t h e Ucayali, can wireless to the Avorld noAv. and in a feAv m o n t h s Iquitos will be included in t h e system. (Manaos has a cable, b u t it is so frequently i n t e r r u p t e d t h a t when Iquitos gets her wireless connection she should be b e t t e r served t h a n Manaos.)
VIEW OF THE MUELLE AND LANDING -STAGE AT IQUITOS
I cannot recommend t h e Amazon River t o ordinary pleasure-seeking tourists. I t is infested by mosquitoes. Malaria is rife, yellow fever common, a n d m a n y other diseases more or less prevalent. My p a r t y Avas specially favoured, and no trouble or expense spared to make us all comfortable a n d safeguard our health. Practically speaking, we h a d no sickness of any
20 AN AMAZON-ANDES TOUR sort, and far less discomfort than we had expected. To all my now numerous friends in the Amazon Valley, I beg to offer my sincerest thanks for their many kindnesses to my Avife and to myself.
.MARGARET BOOTH'S DIARY MANAOS TO LIMA March—May 1908 Manaos : March 12, 1908 : I Avent for a very lovely ride this morning. Breakfast a t five minutes to six, a n d soon aftenvards four splendid Spanish horses Avere b r o u g h t round. G. M. B . Avas too b u s y t o come, so Mr. S u t t o n Avas Aery glad t o go instead. I took a magnificent grey charger, Mr. S u t t o n Avas given a fiery chestnut, Captain Collings, who v e r y m u c h resembles t h e Iron D u k e on horseback, rode a bay. a n d Senor Noguera a coal-black. All t h e horses Avere someAvhat difficult to m o u n t , mine being by far t h e easiest ; Captain Collings was tAventy minutes hopping Avith one foot in the stirrup Avhilst t h e b a y Avaltzed round, a n d Mr. Sutton, Avhose legs are short, Avas also r a t h e r long in getting u p . B u t AArhen at last he succeeded, he Avas not long in overtaking t h e Captain and myself. H e fleAv p a s t us with a great clatter and straight doAvn t h e street. The Captain and I t u r n e d t o t h e right, there Avas a dead silence for a m i n u t e or tAVO, t h e n Ave heard clatter, clatter, clatter, a n d J o h n Gilpin again passed us a t a reckless speed. This h a p p e n e d several times before t h e c h e s t n u t settled doAvn. We rode along a broad sandy road, with small 21
22
MANAOS T O LIMA
shrubs a n d curious little e a r t h , plaster or wooden cottages on each side. A great deal of l a b o u r is needed here, and t o each i m m i g r a n t labourer is given a piece of land, on which he builds a hut a n d m a k e s a small garden. T h e whole effect is consequently very various a n d p i c t u r e s q u e . T h e roads are q u i t e impassable for carriages. At least so it seemed t o me, until Ave came to the race-course of Manaos, a n d t h e r e t o our astonishm e n t we found a m o t o r ! Mr. Sutton's chestnut gave a violent shy a n d swung round. Snap Avent t h e girths ! T h e motor-driver then offered to t a k e h i m t o t h e training stables for a neAv girth, b u t it was n o t to be ; t h e motor started, but in a couple of m i n u t e s h a d plunged into one of the m a n y m u d d y chasms which intersect the road! So Mr. S u t t o n walked with us to the stables, and there procured a new girth. Poor Mr. S. Avas very hot indeed. For a short time Ave Avatched an impromptu race on t h e course, between a French and English t h o r o u g h b r e d , a n d then turned to go home. We reached t h e highest point in the country round Manaos. a n d h a d a Aery pretty A'iew of the forest, billowing in every direction on one side, and on t h e other running gently down to the river. W h e n Ave arrived back in the town, I expected and verv much wanted to go straight home, but Mr. Noguera thought it a good opportunity to show ourselves off in all the principal streets of Manaos ! So we clattered through, bringing many people out to see us. when luckily it began to rain and Ave were obliged to end our ride. We arrived
MANAOS
23
home about eight o'clock. I did mv best to thank Mr. Noguera in rather halting French, to Avhich he replied that he Avas " Tout a AOUS," and would be delighted to take me out riding any time I Avished.
ACROSS THE LINES
AT M A N \ O S
Captain Collings, Avho was splendid, enjoyed himself thoroughly. We had a good Avash and change, and felt very much as if Ave had had a good day's hunting instead of a country ride ! March 13 : We Avent across the lines to-day, in
24
MANAOS T O L I M A
a b o x with t w o chairs. I t was m u c h t a m e r t h a n I expected. D i n e d with t h e L a c h l a n s . Very h o t . After dinner D r L a v a n d e y r a took us all to a concert in the theatre I t was stiflingly close, a n d the m y r i a d s of crickets (or grasshoppers) in t h e hall m a d e such a t r e m e n d o u s c h i r r u p i n g as almost to d r o w n t h e efforts of t h e t w o artists. T h e Brazilian ladies all looked very happy and hot, being dressed in very tight-fitting Parisian gowns. W e were b o t h glad t o get home again and to bed. March 11 : We Avent t o see the Lanjranc off t h i s m o r n i n g . Saying good-bye to Captain Collings m a d e us q u i t e sad. a n d it seemed strange to think t h e y would all be in E n g l a n d whilst Ave Avere still languishing in Brazil ! I h a d a little talk Avith Comte Beauregard. He told me he had had yellow feA*er and nearly died. l i e said : " J e ne suis pas par nature peureux, mais je suis bon Chretien, je Miis religieux et j'ai g r a n d peur de la mort ! Vous. madame. vous ctes sage, mais moi. je redoute l'enfer ! " He is an unworldly, simple old gentleman, and reminds me of Colonel New come. It was wonderful to see the Lanjranc drift away a n d sail down river with her one hundred souls a b o a r d . It stems such a responsibility for some one. The Captain, perhaps ! March 1.5: Sunday: early for our picnic.
This morning Ave started Breakfast at 7.30. The
MANAOS
25
p a r t y consisted of George a n d myself, Mr. Sclnvabe, Mr. Sutton, Mr. K u p a n d Dr. H o r t o n . The morning was delicious a n d beautifully c o o l ; after " launching " u p t h e Rio Negro for a b o u t an hour a n d a half, Ave t u r n e d into a small t r i b u t a r y Avhere we tried for some m i n u t e s t o a t t r a c t t h e a t t e n t i o n of a pilot, and at length got a regular m a n of t h e Avoods t o accept t h e position. His
AFTER
LUNCH ON THE
" PICHIS.'"
DR. HORTON ON THE RIGHT
OF^THE PHOTO, J REGONING NEXT HIM
canoe, howeA'er, Avas r a t h e r too small, and he fetched a larger one. An old lady haA'ing died this morning in one of t h e h u t s on t h e bank, our pilot went on shore t o contribute a few planks for her coffin ! F o r half an hour or more Ave canoed u p t h e stream, t h e woods a n d trees on either b a n k looking A'ery lovely, reflected in t h e still black Avater. Half t h e p a r t y , consisting of G. M. B . and myself, Mr. Sclvwabe a n d Mr. Sutton, walked t h r o u g h t h e Adrgin forest t o a small ford Avhere
26
MANAOS TO LIMA
Ave were to meet the rest of the party in a canoe I was disappointed with my walk as we saAv n( animal life, and although we heard many bird; calling, we caught sight of none. There were many insects, one especially interesting whicl exactly resembled a small green twig. Mr. Schwab* thinks they are rather rare. One beautiful butterfh Ave caught. The trees Avere not so fine as I hac expected, and although there Avas something ver\ Avonderful and strange in the perfect stillness anc solemnity of the forest, the absence of all colour} Avas depressing. Mr. Kup and the Doctor Avere much excited, a} they had shot a monkey on their AY ay through the forest. It was only Mr. Kup's fourth shot which killed the monkey, and eAren then the pooi little animal, though dead, still hung on to the tree with his tail. The man of the Avoods SAvarmed up for him in a marvellous manner, the trunk being as thick as himself, and no branches till he got to the monkey ! We came back in the canoe, Avhilst the others walked back the way Ave had come, but unfortunately rain began, and prevented us from seeing this very beautiful scenery at its best. The watei Avas 40 ft. deep, and the forest almost as thick as on the land itself, so that Ave canoed amongst the actual tree-tops, pushing ourselves from one trunk to another, the man of the Avoods Avhistling the while. We arrived back at the launch rathei wet, and some of the others Avere quite soaked through. So Ave changed as best Ave could, and ate a very hearty lunch ! The weather Avas toe
MANAOS TO IQUITOS
27
b a d t o p e r m i t of visiting t h e other side of the river as h a d been intended, so Ave came straight home, tired a n d Aery hot. March 16 : Spent a very hot morning packing. W h e n Ave boarded t h e Perscveranca at 2.30, everybody came on board to Avish us good-bye,
G. M. B. CATCHING BUTTERFLIES WHILE THE NATIVES PULL OUR CANOES UP SOME RAPIDS
a n d plenty of c h a m p a g n e Avas drunk. We s t a r t e d a t 3 o'clock in a great t h u n d e r s t o r m . At a b o u t 4.30 Ave came t o t h e point Avhere t h e Rio Negro joins t h e Amazon ; here it Avas AXTV curious t o see t h e sharp outline of t h e Avaters Avhere t h e black Negro ended a n d t h e oliAe-broAvn Amazon began. I t Avas so beautifully cool on deck t h a t Ave slung our h a m m o c k s a n d mosquito-nets t o avoid sleeping in our stuffy cabins. As G. M. B . Avas very tired from his ten d a y s '
28
MANAOS T O L I M A
h a r d work a n d social duties in Manaos, we Avent t o bed early. SS. " Per sever anga " : March 17 : W e see some lovely butterflies from t h e boat, b u t t h e y are almost impossible t o catch. H e r o n s a b o u n d also, aigrettes in quantities, kingfishers small a n d big, a n d haAvks. P i u m s too a n d sandflies begin to shoAv themselves, n o t a v e r y welcome addition t o mosquitoes ! At 3.30 Ave land some m e n t o pick grass for the cattle on board. W h i l s t t h e y are doing it, we visit a Brazilian farmer, a n d go r o u n d his estate. The C a p t a i n tells us it cost h i m £5000 to build his houses a n d sheds. Cattle, sheep a n d chickens e Ac ry where. P r e t t y little green parroquets, as n u m e r o u s as sparroAvs in E n g l a n d , are flying about in t h e orchard, eating t h e fruit. G. M. B.'s h e a d is so b a d t h a t he eats no dinner, t a k e s his calomel a n d retires t o bed about 8 o'clock. After p i q u e t Avith Dr. H o r t o n , I t u r n in myself. We finel t h e h a m m o c k s verv comfortable. Mai eh I S : About 2 o'clock Ave were suddenly startled by two gun-shots ; Ave rushed round to t h e other side of t h e boat, Avhence the sound came, a n d found Captain W a t r i n had shot an alligator. W e were sorry not t o be there and see t h e creature. The\- are rarely seen when the r i \ e r is so high ; t h e y prefer basking in the sun when t h e mud-banks are exposed. March 10 : G. M. B. very much himself again, with only a suspicion of headache, AA'hich gradually gets better during the day.
MANAOS TO IQUITOS
29
I t is so beautifully cool this morning t h a t I Avear m y s c u t u m t o keep Avarm ; a n d last night I was obliged t o go a n d fetch m y rug, it Avas so cold in the hammock. G. sights an alligator on a log, t h e Captain r u n s Avith his gun. a n d G. takes a shot a t him. B u t he is too far off, a n d t h e beast splashes into t h e river as t h e shot enters t h e water just beyond. We also see a t u r t l e . W h e n t h e m ' e r is IOAV, t h e beach, Ave are told, is coA'ered with alligators; turtles, parrots, and sometimes eA'cn deer a n d monkeys are seen coming doAvn t o drink. The forest t o - d a y is very Avonderful : it is so thick, and t h e great trees are so closely b o u n d together with creepers and festoons t h a t it looks quite impenetrable. T h e Captain says t h a t m a n y thoughtless sailors t h i n k they Avill go and see Avhat it is like for 30 Yards, b u t never come out again. I can Avell belieAre it. The evening is gorgeous : G. and I sit by t h e pilot, and are advised by t h e Captain to p u t h a t s on ! W e fail t o see t h e d a r k spaces in t h e sky Avhich so impressed Cousin Charles, b u t t h e Southern Cross is very A'isible. March 20 : P o u r i n g Avith rain this morning, and very cool. W e pass t h e R i o J u t a z . At breakfast Ave have tremendous tales of bullfights. George a n d Dr. H o r t o n , Avith eyes s t a r t i n g out of their heads, argue whether t h e gentleman (or lady) diver into a 6-ft. t a n k or t h e toreador a t
30
MANAOS T O L I M A
a bull-fight, have t h e greatest skill a n d n e r v e . The Captain makes m a n y i n o p p o r t u n e r e m a r k s , a n d we tell him he m u c h resembles t h e G e r m a n E m p e r o r ! The trees a n d scenery along t h e b a n k s are much t h e same, b u t Ave notice p a r t i c u l a r l y a tree Avith a bare black-looking t r u n k . T h e y say the wood of this tree is very h a r d a n d very expensive. It is used for t h e floors of t h e best Brazilian houses, generally in alternate stripes with a h a r d Avhite wood. The Avhite ants, Avhich eat all t h e softer Avoods. do not a t t a c k these tAvo kinds. March 21 : This morning, about 1.30, Ave passed t h e Hnascar on her Avay from Iquitos to Manaos. G. M. B . a n d Mr. Robilliard. both looking r a t h e r odd in pyjamas, dressing-gowns a n d straw h a t s , went on board with our mail and h a d a short talk witli Captain Forbes. The moon was b r i g h t and t h e current strong, but the little b o a t b r o u g h t t h e m back quite safely. At '.) o'clock, as t h e Captain Avanted to cut more grass for t h e cattle on board. Ave landed at a small farm. It was d a m p and m u d d y underfoot, the mosquitoes were prettA' bad, b u t the piums were more t h a n any of us could stand ! They covered our faces and hands, and t h e air seemed aliAC Avith t h e m . I had brought m y butterfly-net with me, b u t had to use it to cover m y face and neck. These piums are insects about the size of a small fly ; they bury t h e m s e h e s in the skin in an instant, producing a small irritating spot Avith a bright red drop of blood in the centre. The farm Avas called " Novo P a r a d i s o '* !
MANAOS T O I Q U I T O S
31
March 22 : W e spent rather a disturbed night. About 11.30 it became so foggy t h a t t h e Captain t h o u g h t it Avise t o anchor. We could h a r d l y see t h e banks, a n d an hour earlier we h a d run into a huge log, which Ave could only get rid of by stopping a n d dropping astern. At 3.30 A.M. t h e fog lifted, b u t when the Captain
TABATINGA BARRACKS (BRAZILIAN
FRONTIER)
Avanted t o start, t h e anchor Avould not come u p . After a good deal of trouble and shaking of t h e ship, it was raised Avith a log attached. The rain t o - d a y Avas incessant, and, early in t h e morning, came doAvn in torrents, as it well knoAvs IIOAV t o in t h e Amazon Valley. We passed m a n y fine cotton-trees a n d one gorgeous tree floAvering purple, b u t t h e weather was so dull t h a t we did not see it a t its best.
32
MANAOS TO LIMA We saAv many parroquets in flocks, all chattering hard. Also a couple of parrots and a couple of macaws. The parrots and macaAvs always fly in pairs, and so close to one another t h a t their Avings look as if they were touching. One can see very little of their brilliant plumage Avhen they are flying high, as we have seen them doing up to now.
SOLDIERS
QUARTERS AT TABATINGA
March 2 3 : Last night about 10 o'clock Ave arrived at Laura Esdre, the State frontier of Brazil, a small place where Ave had to have our papers examined. We then went on to Esperanca, the Federal frontier of Brazil, and as it took about an hour from Laura Esdre, we arrived there too late for our papers to be seen, and Ave were obliged to anchor for the night. The examining gentleman came on board early to pass us, and by 8 o'clock Ave were at Tabatinga, the Military frontier of Brazil, and
MANAOS TO IQUITOS
33
a most ridiculous place. There Avere two or three a n t i q u a t e d cannons stuck on t o p of t h e m u d bank, a s e n t r y - b o x with a nigger s t a n d i n g outside Avith a gun, a n d a feAV fossilised gun-carriages in a TOAV behind. B u t as there are no roads either in or anyAvhere near T a b a t i n g a , theAr seem r a t h e r useless. The barracks looked picturesque in t h e distance,
GUNS AND SENTRY AT TABATINGA
b u t Avhen Ave came close, Ave found nothing b u t a long IOAV AvhiteAvashed front, with t h e Royal Arms of t h e Brazilian E m p i r e still over t h e portal ! The officials h a d n o t eA'en t a k e n t h e trouble to remove t h e m Avhen t h e Republic Avas established. There Avas no back to this imposing front, no roof, only a feAv ruined Avails, Avith grass and trees growing inside, a n d a feAV d i r t y hammocks^ slung for t h e soldiers. T h e Avhole t h i n g looked extraordinarily dilapidated a n d impotent. c
34
MANAOS TO LIMA
The Perseveranca had found it very difficult to anchor close to the bank, and the current had dragged her, anchor and all, a quarter of a mile beloAv Tabatinga, so that Avhen Ave wished to get back to her in our small boat, Ave had to roAV right into the middle of the river, Avhere the current Avas tremendous. The gangAvay Avas on the far side of the ship, and we crossed the Perseveranca about 30 yards above her bows and then made a dart for the ladder. The first officer put the helm of our little boat hard over, so t h a t Ave charged the ship broadside on, and, as the officer had made a good shot, the sailors, Avho Avere very agile and strong, Avere able to seize the ladder and just hold on by the skin of their teeth, and so prevent our smashing in to the sides of the Perseveranca. Although a wonderful feat on the part of the first officer, it Avas horribly risky and ought never to haAe been attempted. In about ten minutes Ave arriAed at the Permian Military frontier, Leticia. This Avas a neat little place, much more attractiAe than Tabatinga. We Avere receiA'ed by a gentleman Avho spoke English very Avell, and also, to our great joy. met a gentleman who has been to Lima via the Pachitea and Pichis RiAers, Puerta Bermudez and Oroya. A P e r m i a n lady presented me Avith a little parroquet, which seemed Aery tame, though I soon found it was not so, but had its Avings and tail clipped short. I took it on board, but it couldn't bear to be noticed, and Avould not eat. I left it on a chair where it had been sitting all the afternoon, and
MANAOS TO IQUITOS
35
Avhen I came b a c k it Avas gone ! I t m u s t have heard t h e h u n d r e d s of p a r r o q u e t s chattering and screeching in t h e forest, a n d m a d e a last desperate a t t e m p t t o join t h e m and fallen overboard. Poor little t h i n g ! Jose c a u g h t me some butterflies, tAvo yellow and one blue. W e also saw a large
DR. HORTON AND MY
LETICIA
PARROQUET
metallic-blue butterfly, b u t it was too SAvift to be caught. I hope Jose, n e x t time he comes Avithfme as a butterfly boy. Avill not wear such s m a r t t i g h t boots. They c a n ' t be comfortable for running. This evening t h e guard, Avho is accompanying us from Leticia t o Iquitos, told us some cheering and useful things a b o u t t h e t r i p from Iquitos to Lima. He has tAvice done it, a n d has giAren us m a n y hints
36 MANAOS TO LIMA as to tambos (hotels), &c. He also told us that Avireless telegraphy runs from Puerta Bermudez to Oroya ! This rather depresses me ! March 24 : My parroquet Avas found by the Captain in a dark corner of the ship. I t seemed none the Avorse, and looks a little happier than it did yesterday. I don't quite knoAV Avhat I shall do Avith it. This afternoon we saAv Avhat seemed to us lovely crimson orchids. They were groAving up in a large tree, Avhere orchids should groAv, but Ave Avere not quite close enough to see properly. I have spent a verv busy day Letters, Spanish. German, and reading " Franilev Parsonage" Avith G. M. B. It is Avonderful the way the days on board Avhirl round. I haA^cn't had time to do half the things I meant to on this journey—as to reading, I mean. No ••Faust" and one chapter of Carlyle so far! Iquitos: March 25 : A lovely sunshiny day. Avhich is Aery delicious after yesterday's rain. I lost my parroquet again last night, but a series of small squeaks revealed him up in the curtains of our cabin ! At about 1.30 Ave sight Iquitos, and actually arrive there at 2.30. We are met bA' a great crowd of people. Captain Good, Mr. Tregoning, Mr. Sanceau (Louis), and Mr. Mackay are there, and Aery Avclcoming. The first view of Iquitos Avas very disappointing to me. I somehoAv expected a smaller Manaos, but found it quite different, and
IQUITOS
37
the SAvift current running right up to the other side of the pontoon makes it look very hopeless as a harbour. The Captain and Mr. Robilliard have a difference of opinion as to bringing the ship up to the pontoon at once, and Ave eventually Avait for a signal from
THE LANDING-STAGE AT IQUITOS ON OUR ARRIVAL
Captain Good, telling us to come. After Ave have said our hoAV-do-you-do's Ave land and take a Avalk inthetoAvn. It is a curious little place, good footpavements, shocking roads, Avith open drains running doAvn the middle of the street. We have a long talk with Mr. Tregoning and Mr. Sanceau about our trip, and it seems as if we shall have no difficulty in getting a good launch to take us from the Pachitea to Puerta Bermudez. By-the-by, our little Spanish guard made us
38
MANAOS TO LIMA
an offer, through Mr. Robilliard, to take us over to Lima for £250. We did not accept ! Captain Good, Messrs. Tregoning, Sanceau and Mackay come to dinner. The mosquitoes are very
CANOEING FROM BERMUDEZ TO J E S S U P I
bad, and I am at last driven into the mosquitohouse, Avhere I find perfect peace. Mr. Tregoning is much to the fore, and G. M. B. thoroughly enjoys talking things OATer Avith him. March 26 : I don't leaA'e the boat in the morning, and G. M. B. comes back from his rounds Avith Captain Good verv tired and Aery hungry. We all lunch on board.
IQUITOS 30 It is filthily dirty on deck, as they have been moving all the coal forward, in order to get the propellers as much out of water as possible. Two blades have been broken and have to be mended
CANOEING FROM BERMUDEZ TO J E S S U P I
to-morroAv, and then the coaling Avill commence again the day after. We dine at a restaurant, Bella Vista, Avith our usual party. It is ACIV pleasant, as there are hardly any mosquitoes. Afterwards Ave go back to the house and are shown some Avonderful Indian clothes and arms. We are told theAT are to be
40
MANAOS T O LIMA
given t o us ! Two grass h a m m o c k s , some grass skirts, &c., a Avonderfully Avoven coat, r a t h e r like t h e coats worn by t h e shepherds near Jerusalem, only a good deal finer. Mr. Sanceau shows us a blow-pipe gun Avith poisoned d a r t s . March 27 : Dr. H o r t o n a n d I s t a r t out for a Avalk in t h e forest. W e go t h r o u g h I q u i t o s and arrive
IQUITOS STREET
a t a place Avhere Avomen and girls are Avashing. Our p a t h gets Aery Avet and soon becomes a simple s t r e a m Avith, cwery yard or so, a feAv rotten logs laid across it. As AVC both have on thin shoes and clean clothes, AVC determine to giA^e it up and try a n o t h e r d a y with more suitable boots and gaiters. We caught some Aery pretty little red butterflies, b u t did not see much else. The Avomen here all seem to go about Avith their hair doAvn their backs and a p a n a m a hat stuck on
IQUITOS
41
top. They h a v e very fine black hair, b u t otherwise are n o t good to look at. Y e s t e r d a y G. M. B . a n d I watched two girls a b o u t twelve years old diving and swimming in t h e Avater. T h e y Avere just like fish and loved t o run doAvn t h e b a n k and throAV themselves into the water, laughing Avith delight. Some boys Avho were fishing near by t h o u g h t it great fun t o throAV stones a n d m u d at t h e m (I dare say they
m
*
IQUITOS STREET
Avere very annoying]y disturbing t h e fish), b u t they took no notice a n d presently came out of t h e Avater, a n d popped their pink cotton flouneey skirts right over t h e dripping g a r m e n t s in Avhich they h a d been b a t h i n g . Their ciA'ilisation is very superficial. " Grattez le Russe et vous trouvez le T a r t a r e ! " March 28 : W e have tAvo calls, one from t h e Brazilian Consul, a t a b o u t 8 A.M., and one from
42
MANAOS T O L I M A
a Sefior Felippe , r a t h e r a nice Portuguese gentleman, who owns t w o launches. T h e Brazilian Consul is a verv poor t h i n g indeed—hardly a m a n . I t was very hot to-day, a n d t h e r e seemed t o be scarcely a b r e a t h of air stirring. C a p t a i n Good's house is very stuffy, as t h e y s h u t t h e Avindows on one side of t h e house t o keep t h e rain out, and therefore there is no t h r o u g h d r a u g h t . To-day m y p a r r o q u e t b e c a m e too adventurous, overbalanced, a n d fell into t h e Avater. The poor little t h i n g flapped a b o u t a n d was gradually getting more a n d more e x h a u s t e d when one of t h e boys beloAv j u m p e d overboard a n d rescued it. H e Avas obliged t o p u t t h e bird in his m o u t h Avhen he had reached it, a n d bring it b a c k in t h a t way. Parroq u e t Avas very sorry for itself for a n hour or so, a n d looked a miserable drenched object. I am sending it back from Iquitos in t h e Manco. Mr. Sanceau has promised to look after it for me. March 20 : T h e Great Iquitos B a n q u e t ! T h e guests were asked for 11 o'clock, and they begin coming at t h a t hour. W e shake hands verv busily for a b o u t an hour, a n d I do m y best to e n t e r t a i n t h e five ladies : Mrs. Cazes, Avife of the English Consul, Miss Macaulay of Manchester, Avho is liA'ing out here as goATerness to Mr. Morey s children, a n d three P e r m i a n ladies, Seiiora Salgado, Seiiora Vega, and Sehora dc la Torre. T h e P e r m i a n ladies arc r a t h e r difficult to m a n a g e , as t h e y canj[only talk Spanish, except Sehora Salgado, who talks F r e n c h . At a b o u t 12 o'clock we sit doAvn to our meal. I sit betAveen
K PJ
«i PS o O fn O
a PH
H W
& G> •<
P3 O
S H
44
MANAOS T O L I M A
t h e Sub-Prefect, Senor Tizan, a n d C a p t a i n Good. G. M. B . sits a t t h e other end between t h e Prefect a n d Mr. Cazes. N o t h i n g h a p p e n s for some time, no food is b r o u g h t on, only endless cocktails. A p p a r e n t l y something m u s t h a v e gone Avrong in t h e kitchen, b u t a t last t h e soup a p p e a r s and Ave devour it greedily, a n d t h e n t h e r e is a n o t h e r pause before t h e fish arrives, after Avhich t h e dishes come on fairly regularly Sehor Tizan is v e r y pleasant, a n d gives me a good deal of information concerning our journey. H e has come jrom Lima, b u t Ave can find no one Avho has been to L i m a from I q u i t o s . D u r i n g t h e meal plates full of cards are constantly being passed to G. M. B., myself, and Captain Good, t h e n AVC find all eyes fixed on us, a n d haAe to boAv a n d smile a n d drink t h e healths of t h e gentlemen who haAe sent round t h e cards. George m a k e s a very good speech in English ; he tells t h e m it is Cousin Charles' b i r t h d a y to-day (a white lie, it is to-morroAv) a n d they are delighted a t t h e coincidence ; m o s t of t h e m understand every word G. says ; he speaks SIOAVIV, distinctly, a n d a l t o g e t h e r very Avell. Dr. Herrera, Avho^ had b r o u g h t a long speech of a b o u t an hour's length, is deprived of his a n t i c i p a t e d pleasure by George m a k i n g Mr. Cazes say t h a t noAv they Avere all to get u p a n d t a k e their coffee a n d cigars elseAvhere. Poor Dr. Herrera, Avho is t h e editor of t h e Loreto Commercial, is furious a t George's ruse, b u t , no d o u b t his speech will, none t h e less, a p p e a r in t h a t newspaper. After t h e cigars a n d coffee h a v e been finished,
IQUITOS
45
t h e p h o t o g r a p h e r is sent for b y special request, a n d AVC are all a r r a n g e d in a g r o u p . T h e Prefect is in t h e middle ; I sit on his right, Mrs. Cazes on his left, a n d G. s t a n d s u p b e h i n d . Captain Good, Mr. Tregoning a n d Dr. H o r t o n lie a b o u t in front. Great e n t h u s i a s m is shoAvn, a n d h u r r a h s a n d claps are Aery loud between each p h o t o . T h e h a n d s h a k i n g s begin again, e n d we are left
THE RIVER ITAYA THAT ONE DAY" MAY SWEEP AWAY- IQUITOS
a t four o'clock, Aery e x h a u s t e d a n d very hot. I t has been t h e h o t t e s t day Ave haA'c h a d on t h e Amazon a n d se\-enty h o t h a n d s to shake ! March 30 : We expected to s t a r t to-day for P u e r t a Bermudez, b u t our little launch, t h e Elisa, has been troublesome a n d SIOAV in getting ready, a n d every one here t h o u g h t it Aviser for us to see her off first. The people here are untrustAvorthy a n d it Avould be quite likely t h a t she Avould never
46
MANAOS TO LIMA
come u p a t all if t h e c a p t a i n found h e h a d o t h e r things he would prefer t o do. This afternoon we m e t Mr. L e v y , t o Avhom t h e launch belongs, a n d he said t h a t t h e l a u n c h Ave did not t a k e , as it Avas m u c h too expensive, b u m p e d into t h e Elisa a n d broke some of her machinery, j u s t because t h e oAvners Avere a n g r y a n d jealous. HoAvever, t h e Elisa Avas m e n d e d b y a b o u t ,5 o'clock anel s t a r t e d coaling, so t h a t AVC hope she Avill get off early to-morroAv morning, leaving us t o folloAv in t h e Perseveranca. T h e Elisa is a comfortable-looking little launch a n d draAvs onh' 4 ft., so we hope after leaA'ing t h e Perseveranca to get u p t o P u e r t a B e r m u d e z , and perhaps eAen as far as P u e r t a Jessupi, Avhere Ave meet our mules. I t is very surprising t o m e t o learn t h a t the Perseveranca draAvs only 7 ft.! To-day Avas Aery h o t indeed, a n d t h e mosquitoes seem to get larger a n d more troublesome every day. P o o r G. M. B . has some b a d bites on his hands and toes, m o s t uncomfortable places. March 31 : The Elisa comes u p t o t h e mole and t a k e s on w h a t she calls her provisions, Avhich look u n c o m m o n l y like cargo. HoAvcAer, Mr. Levy, Ave hear, is going to be on b o a r d all t h e time, so t h a t t h e captain A\ill haAe to do more or less Avhat Ave Avant. Many people come a n d sec us off a n d drink c h a m p a g n e — t h e Prefect, t h e Sub-Prefect. Mr. Cazes, Mr. Norden, M. Sourrisse a n d seAeral others. At last t h e Elisa starts, n o t Avithout five lady passengers, m u c h to our consternation, b u t it t u r n s
IQUITOS TO BOCCA PACHITEA 47 out t h a t they arc only going a little Avay up, Avith Captain Good's permission. A poor woman, Avith a clean Avhite frock, Avanted to get to Lima, and offered herself as my maid if Ave Avould take her. But Ave had to say no. She could not possibly haAe come Avith us over the Andes, but I Avas very sorry for her. Captain Good's boy is coming across Avith us.
NATIVE QUARTERS AT IQLITOS
He cannot bear being left in Iquitos Avithout Captain Good, Avhom he calls father, so he is going to be our servant till Ave get to Lima, and I expect Avill be very useful. His name is Caesar ! We start a feAv minutes after the Elisa, and in about an hour haAe caught her up. But she Avill no doubt get to Massisea as soon as AVC shall, as she can take short cuts in shalloAv Avater. We have two very good pilots on board, besides the two Avho took us from Manaos to Iquitos. Captain
48 MANAOS TO LIMA Good, Mr. Tregoning, Mr Robilliard, Dr. Horton and ourselves are the party. The view of Iquitos from up the river is much more imposing than that from below the toAvn. Indeed, approaching from Manaos one hardly realises there is any toAvn at all. About a quarter of an hour after leaving Iquitos Ave pass the small river Itaya. This can be used by canoes, and
ELISA
NEARLY CATCHES UP
avoids a long bend in the main Amazon ; it is said t h a t in a feAv years the Avhole stream will force its Avay through this narroAv channel and SAveep away Iquitos. April 1 : We Avere obliged to anchor for three hours last night. It Avas too dark to see the shores. We Avoke up in the Ucayali. About 2 o clock our pilots disobey orders and take us a short cut, Avith the result that Ave stick for ten minutes or so on a mud-bank in the middle
c 3
IQUITOS TO BOCCA PACHITEA
40
of t h e riAer. T h e pilots, in disgrace, bring us back again t o t h e m a i n m-er, a n d we s t a r t afresh. This a d v e n t u r e . hoAvever, takes a b o u t an hour, and Ave presently sec t h e Elisa steaming u p behind. She t a k e s our unsuccessful short cut quite easily but does n o t pass us. W e again leave her behind. Captain W a t r i n is very excited.
A LARGE FAMILY" RAFT
A b o u t 0 P.M. it again gets so d a r k t h a t Ave have t o anchor, a n d t h e Elisa passes us. At a b o u t 11 P.M. it clears u p a n d Ave proceed. I haA'e never seen such rain as Ave h a d to-day It came doAvn like a great sheet, and t h e water looked like d i a m o n d s on a large frosted piece of glass, Avith t h e millions of rain-drops on t h e surface. I n t h e afternoon Ave passed a raft, a b o u t 30 ft. b y 20 ft., i n h a b i t e d by a large family, poultry and cattle, with a grass field dragging behind. These D
50
MANAOS TO LIMA
people float doAvn t h e river t o Manaos or Avherever t h e y can dispose of their rubber, b a n a n a s , &c., and t h e n t a k e a steamer h o m e . I t looks Avonderfully r o m a n t i c . April 2 : E a r l y this m o r n i n g Ave SAvamped a canoe containing two girls a n d a boy. T h e y clung
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A SMALL INDIAN H I T WHERE WE STOPPED TO MEND OUR PROPELLERS
on to t h e canoe and Ave Avent back t o saA'e them, b u t a n o t h e r canoe reached t h e m before Ave did. L a s t night A\-e broke tAvo propeller blades, so Ave p u t t h e ship into t h e bank, a n d she Avas mended again in three or four hours. We stopped by a small I n d i a n house, m a d e of p a l m leaAes and bamboos. The i n h a b i t a n t s looked poor, a n d for food AVC only saAv b a n a n a s a n d foAvls. These I n d i a n ' houses are most picturesque, Avith their
IQUITOS TO BOCCA PACHITEA
51
great sloping roofs m a d e of p a l m leaves, and t h e Avails m a d e of b a m b o o s stuck together. Thev are built on piles to preAent t h e Avater from flooding t h e m a t high river, a n d in this particular place the i n h a b i t a n t s were obliged to Avadc a b o u t their garden ! In t h e afternoon AVC passed another raft, and
A SUNSET ON THE UCAYALI
on it Avere three men, and a fire burning, b u t t h e Avash of our steamer quickly p u t out t h e fire ! The riAer b a n k s here are not very interesting, the groAvth being r a t h e r IOAV, a n d t h e big trees n o t shoAving a t all. There are also m a n y dead trees with white t r u n k s , m a k i n g t h e place look very forlorn. To reward us for t h e p o v e r t y of t h e scenery, there Avas a glorious sunset last night. The Avhole Avestern sky Avas a gorgeous gloAV of purple, pink a n d green, soon passing into a d a r k
52
MANAOS TO LIMA
red Avine colour. All this Avas reflected in t h e still glassy Avater, with a most Avonderful effect. April 3 : Spent a busy methodical d a y r e a d i n g : Carlyle's " F r e n c h R e v o l u t i o n . " Spanish, Prescott's "Peru."' T h e scenery is dull to-daA' I t has a Avasted,
THE FRONT STREET OF CONTAMANA.
NEW THATCH
DRY'ING IN THE SUN
m a r s h y look Avhich is Aery d r e a r y . There are no big trees, only r a t h e r high reeds a n d small Avhite d e a d trees all along t h e b a n k . I n t h e eA'ening Ave a r e pestered by mosquitoes, a n d after dinner take refuge in our mosquitodiouse, four of us playing bridge and a n o t h e r reading. I t is r a t h e r close q u a r t e r s , b u t a n y t h i n g is b e t t e r t h a n mosquitoes. The Elisa is overtaken in t h e evening, a n d passed again. We Avonder very m u c h Avhich of us will arrive a t Massisea first.
IQUITOS TO BOCCA PACHITEA
53
April 4 : We Avent aground last night, but had no difficulty in getting off. The pilots say that from here on AVC shall not be able to travel by night. There are too many banks to go aground on. Yesterday the banks were flat and uninteresting, but to-day AVC sight mountains. Captain Watrin called me about (J A.M. to look at a mountain, and there right in front of us it loomed up. five hundred
THE BACK STREET OF CONTAMANA
feet high. We located it on the map and found it really joined on to the Andes, so that noAv Ave feel very near the Promised Land. The effect of this blue hill beyond the large expanse of Avater reminded me very much of a Scotch loch. In about an hour's time, a whole range of small mountains deA'eloped in the distance. Although about 2000 ft. high, they Avere, as far as Ave could see, covered Avith trees. They were a beautiful blue and Aery refreshing to look upon, after the endless flat Avooded country. About three in the afternoon Ave arrived at a
54
MANAOS TO LIMA
small toAvn called C o n t a m a n a . W e Avere delighted Avith it. I t h a d one long street parallel t o t h e river, Avith Aery p r e t t y houses on one side, mostly t h a t c h e d and bamboo-Availed. The street itself Avas beautifully k e p t a n d clean, a n d everything looked as spick and span as possible. Another smaller street ran parallel t o a n d behind t h e large street, a n d Avas connected bv eighteen short streets. G. M. B. likened it to New York ! Children croAvded r o u n d t h e boat, and Ave fed a b o u t t h i r t y small boys on prunes and chocolate, which they ate Avith great relish. I t seemed a m o s t prosperous little place : foAvls a n d cattle eA'erywhere, Avith b a n a n a s , orange-trees, a n d papa-fruit-trees groAving in t h e gardens and streets. April 5 : G. M. B . has a most disagreeable rash all over his body. I t is very irritating and miserable. Dr. H o r t o n t h i n k s it is a kind of prickly h e a t . Anyhow, it is a most unAvelcome addition t o mosquitoes, piums, &c. W e saAV tAvo large birds yesterday on t h e banks. T h e Captain calls t h e m unicorn birds, because t h e y h a v e a kind of h o r n on their beaks. Through t h e glasses t h e y looked t o me like enormous ducks, b u t Ave are told t h e y are really more like turkeys, a n d haAe beautiful eagle-like eyes. T h e y are black a n d reddish broAvn. The aigrettes are Aery plentiful here, a n d Ave saAv some Avonderful pink ones, j u s t t h e colour of pink coral. T h e y Avere most beautiful flying against t h e green b a n k s .
IQUITOS TO BOCCA PACHITEA
J.)
T h e river has fallen a good foot here, and I believe Ave shall only just be in time to get up to Bermudez. The Elisa Avas sighted by t h e Sea-green Incorruptible early this morning, so Ave hope she is coming u p all right. Y\ e spent a Aery h a r d morning Avashing stockings,
THE CHIEF HOUSE IN CONTAMANA
handkerchiefs, G. M. B . s shirts a n d collars and other underclothing. I t Avas very h a r d Avork, b u t Ave were p r o u d of our i r o n i n g ! A n o t h e r gorgeous sunset. We have t h e m nearly every eAening. April 6 : This morning Ave g a \ e Captain W a t r i n a silver ink-pot, Avith a small clock a t t a c h e d . H e seemed m u c h pleased. The Avhole creAv Avill get their presents (of money) Avhen t h e y get back to P a r a . Pilots, cook a n d h e a d m e n get £5 a n d t h e others £l u p w a r d s . I believe it Avill cost a b o u t £70.
50
MANAOS T O L I M A
The water is still falling ; Captain Good t h i n k s a b o u t 21 ft. b y noAv, b u t it m a y rise a little again before going doAvn still farther. This afternoon Ave saAv h u n d r e d s a n d h u n d r e d s of aigrettes rise from a m a r s h y piece of bank, looking like a g r e a t cloud of beautiful snoAv-flakes. A n o t h e r gorgeous sunset. We anchored at Massisea a b o u t 9.30 P.M. ; still no sign of t h e Elisa. April 7 : W e Avoke u p opposite Massisea. I t is a very small place, only a feAv houses, a good m a n y cattle, a n d I c o u n t e d eight horses. B u t Massisea s great title t o fame is t h a t it is t h e t e r m i n u s of t h e Avireless telegraphy to Lima. I t is very odd t o see t h e t h r e e high receiA'ing-toAvers rising above t h e forest a n d t h e small houses. We sent our telegram t o T a r m a , asking if the mules h a d already s t a r t e d , a n d if not t h a t they should be sent as soon as possible to P u e r t a Bermudez. To our great joy, a b o u t 7.30 A.M. t h e Elisa came up, a n d Avhilst M. Robespierre and Co. were sending t h e wire, Ave t r a n s h i p p e d all our provisions, so as t o saAe time in our t r a n s h i p m e n t a t Bocca Pachitea. T h e fiA'e black ladies were still on board the Elisa, b u t t h e y disembarked \TerA' soon. The mosquitoes came on in myriads, a n d AA'ere a great nuisance, helping us packing, and sAA'arming round us A\iienever Ave stood still. Poor George is still suffering Avith his rash, and h a r d l y slept a t all. It is a most persistent and exasperating irritation. We started from Massisea a b o u t 9 o'clock, and soon left the Elisa behind. We arrived a t Bocca
BOCCA P A C H I T E A T O E S P E R A N Z A
57
P a c h i t e a at 12.30 a n d waited for her r a t h e r anxiously. She was longer t h a n Ave expected, and d i d n ' t arrive till p a s t three. H e r excuse Avas " gathering b a n a n a s . " Whilst Ave were waiting Ave saw shoals of porpoises j u m p i n g out of the Avater in eAeiA' direction. The Captain and Mr. Robilliard had shots at t h e m with their rifles, and t h e Captain
MASSISEA. SHOWING THE POLES FOR WIRELESS
TELEGRAPHY
thought he hit one. W e also saw a couple of very large black a n d white wild ducks. They Avere very tame and alighted only a b o u t 00 yards from us. We were not long in getting ourselves and our luggage aboard t h e Elisa, a n d a t 3.45 AVC saAv t h e last of t h e Perseveranca. Steam Launch ••Elisa" : April 7 : This b o a t is much smaller t h a n t h e Perseveranca. b u t I t h i n k we shall be able t o m a k e ourselves comfortable, and AVC h a v e all our OAVII food. The P a c h i t e a is
58 MANAOS TO LIMA much smaller than the Ucayali, not more than a quarter of a mile Avide anyAvhere, and often only 100 yards. It Avould have been impossible to get the Perseveranca up any distance. For the first time I saAv two araras Avith the sun full on them, and their colouring is Avonderfully A'ivid : bright crimson and green in the e\rening sky We Avere much pleased to see some coAv-fish
GOOD-BYE TO THE
PERSEVERANCA
ON THE UCAYALI RIVER AT
T H E MOUTH OF THE PACHITEA ( 2 9 5 0 MILES UP THE AMAZON)
occasionally coming to the surface. They are really small river seals, and are not often seen. The herons, aigrettes and pelicans are much tamer here than in the bigger riA^ers, and one can get Avithin 30 yards of them in a boat like the Elisa. The river has eA'idently fallen considerably ; they say it will noAV rise again a little, but that Ave shall go from Bermudez to Jessupi in canoes. April 8 : We slept rather like sardines side by side in our hammocks. G. M. B.'s A\iiole body is
BOCCA P A C H I T E A T O E S P E R A N Z A
59
unbearable, a n d he h a d very little sleep again last night. If t h e horror would only work itself out. The mosquitoes are not at all troublesome on this river, a n d t h o u g h Ave have been told t h e piums are a n n o y i n g here, AVC have not seen much of t h e m so far. E a r l y this morning, some of t h e m u d - b a n k s were quite shingly, a n d later on t h e banks became soft-
OFFICERS, BOATSWAINS AND PILOTS OF THE
PERSEVERANCA "
looking rocks instead of t h e usual m u d . The river is veiA' p r e t t y indeed with t h e rocky sides covered Avith ferns a n d small clinging plants. It tAvists a n d t u r n s a b o u t a n d doubles on itself in a most Avonderful way, a n d t h e current is t r e m e n d o u s . At one corner there was a regular t o r r e n t to meet us, a n d for a feAv m i n u t e s Ave scarcely m a d e any headAvay The Captain told us t h a t boats often t a k e tAvo days doing t h a t little b i t ; they have t o m a n a g e by hauling t h e m s e h e s up by rope.
60
MANAOS TO LIMA We only came across one hut inhabited by Indians, Avith their usual bundles of Avood for sale to the launches. We are lucky in our coal ! Very feAv civilised beings inhabit these regions, as there are ferocious tribes of Indians inland, and no one has yet dared to explore. Even the rubber here has to be left ungathered. We saAv an alligator on a bank ; Mr. Robilliard shot at him, but missed, and the alligator craAvled slovvly into the river. Later on Ave saAv a baby alligator. Monsieur LCAA' tells us that the journey from Bocca Pachitea to Bermudez is sixty hours" naA'igation, and only eighteen coming doAvn the river. April 9 : Poured again last night and the riAer has risen quite considerably, Avhich is Aery useful to us. George's rash doesn't seem to get any better; and in the night especially it is a great misery to him. HoAvever, he is noAv being dieted and omitting baths, and taking some alkaline pills of Dr. Horton's, so that Ave hope it Avill soon get better. Meam\'hile it is hard to bear. The banks are high this morning, about 60 ft., and are made of soft red rock. It is verv picturesque indeed. The riAer has decidedly risen to-day, so that we can go quite close in to the bank, where the current is not so strong. We moored close in to the bank this eAening. The Captain, Avho is afraid to trust to the anchor only Avhere the bed of the river is rocky, likes to tie up to the trees as well. Soon after AVC had arrived at our evening anchorage, four Indians came in a canoe. They Avanted
BOCCA PACHITEA TO ESPERANZA
01
t o b u y candles from Mr. LCVA' a n d produced two golden English sovereigns for t h e purpose ! T h e y Avere strong, short, r a t h e r s q u a t little men, very dark, w i t h broad faces, high cheek-bones, a n d s t r a i g h t black hair, cut round like " T r i l b y ' s . " T h e h e a d - m a n h a d his face Aery m u c h reddened b y some dye. H e Avas t h e only one AA'ho spoke Spanish, a n d told Mr. LCAV t h a t they liAred not
A BEND ON THE PACHITEA
very far off, a n d t h a t t h e y Avere good Indians, b u t lived next door to a b a d tribe of I n d i a n c a n n i b a l s ; he shoAved us t h e scar of a tomahaAvk across t h e top of his head. One of his folloAvers h a d a silver nose-ring, like a small shield, hanging from his nose on to his u p p e r lip. They Avent aAvay in their canoe, very Avell satisfied Avith their case of candles for £2 ! April 10 : G. M. B . has h a d a b e t t e r night, and although his poor body is still covered Avith horrid little red lumps, t h e y do not look so red a n d angry
62
MANAOS TO LIMA
as t h e y did. I h a v e a v e r y slight a t t a c k of prickly heat, b u t n o t h i n g t o m a k e m e uncomfortable. T h e river t o - d a y has been m u c h broader, a n d in p a r t s very beautiful, particularly one stretch of a b o u t tA\o miles, Avith t h e blue m o u n t a i n s in the distance, a n d t h e b a n k s high a n d clothed Avith fine trees a n d floAvering shrubs. T h e butterflies are getting more n u m e r o u s and we saAv some perfect ones, turquoise-blue and black. Some splendid crimson a n d blue-grey araras fleAv over t h e river toAvards eAening. The scents in t h e eAenings a n d nights are delicious. I haAe noticed it all t h e way u p t h e Amazon. T h e riAer is again sinking rapidly. The Captain said a couple of feet during t h e day, and he expects it Avill fall a n o t h e r couple during t h e night. So Ave are tying ourselves u p in some deep Avater beside an island. L a s t night Ave all d r e a m t of c a n n i b a l s ! •ft -
April 11 : At ten m i n u t e s to three P.M. Ave arrived a t t h e junction of t h e Pichis and the Palcazu, just four days, minus one hour, from the m o u t h of t h e P a c h i t e a . We continued right south on t h e Pichis, Avhilst t h e Palcazu came SAvirling doAvn from t h e Avest. The Avater of t h e Pichis is m u c h darker and greener t h a n t h a t of t h e Pachitea, a n d t h e current at first Avas Aery slack, being d a m m e d u p bA' the rush of Avater round t h e bend from t h e Palcazu. The Pichis is certainly a size smaller t h a n the P a c h i t e a ; the scenery is very much t h e same. F o r t h e last three or four daAS Ave haAe hardly
BOCCA PACHITEA TO ESPERANZA
63
been t r o u b l e d b y biting insects. Mosquitoes h a v e been feAver a n d fewer since we left t h e Ueayali, a n d t h e p i u m s h a v e not been ven T troublesome, excepting a t breakfast-time, Avhen every one is adorned by a halo of these little wretches. HoAvevcr, AVC m a y haAe a good dose before Ave leave t h e river, as Ave haAe been told IIOAV b a d they arc a n d IIOAY Ave ought t o Avear gloves, a n d nets over our faces.
ENTERING THE RIVER
PICHIS
My " F r e n c h R e v o l u t i o n " is getting painfully exciting, a n d I can h a r d l y bear to read of t h e horror of t h a t most m a d a n d frantic time. I wonder Avhether it would haAe been possible for the English ever to haAe become such hell fiends ! I d o n ' t belieAe so. 1792 seems such a short Avhile ago. April 12 : At last Ave arrive a t t h e h u t and clearing of t h e mueh-talked-of I r i s h m a n . We reach the place a b o u t 12.30, a n d find a neat-looking t h a t c h e d house Avith t h e usual b a m b o o Avails and
64
MANAOS T O L I M A
several sheds. A t t h e landing-place is a board, a n d on it " ' S a n t a Zita ' [ P l a n t a t i o n de G o m a ] . " Mr. Crawford, t h e said I r i s h m a n , an ex-sailor, meets us, a n d SIIOAVS us all r o u n d his little house a n d r u b b e r p l a n t a t i o n . H e is an odd-looking little m a n Avith. it is said, a great Aveakness for cachaca. H e m a k e s q u i t e a lot of money OArer
MR. CRAWFORD S HOUSE
From the right—Bobie Crawford, Dr. Horton. Air. Robilliard, Captain Good, G. 51. Booth and AA7. H. Tregoning
his rubber, a n d then, alas, is induced by his buyers to get drunk, a n d Avhilst in t h a t s t a t e is robbed of more rubber. H e ran aAvay from his ship at Callao some twentyfive years ago, and has lived here ever since. H e promises us I n d i a n s a n d canoes, to t a k e us u p to Jessupi, for t h e sum of £10. H e also tells us t h a t in t h e Elisa Ave shall probably n o t get beyond a rocky piece of river called E s p e r a n c a , a b o u t tAvelve miles short of B e r m u d e z .
ESPERANZA TO P U E R T A BERMUDEZ
05
We start from Santa Zita Avith Irishman, Indians and canoes, determined to go as far as AVC can in the Elisa toAvards Bermudez, but Avhen Ave reach Esperanca the river is falling fast, so AVC anchor and decide to proceed to-morroAv by canoe, leaving
MR. TREGONING AND WILD PIG
the Elisa here to Avait for Mr. Robilliard and Captain Good, A\rho are coming up Avith us as far as Bermudez. At Santa Zita G. M. B., Dr. Horton and Casar caught me some very pretty little blue, red and black pencilled butterflies. Such an Apollo E
66 MANAOS TO LIMA of an Indian is going to be one of the men to paddle the canoes to-morroAv ! April 13 : We started this morning at about 7.30 in three canoes : one large one belonging to
JOSE CATCHING BUTTERFLIES
the Elisa containing all our luggage, and tAvo smaller ones belong to Bohie CraAvford, containing more luggage and all of us, Captain Good, Mr. Robilliard, Tregoning, Dr. Horton, G. M. B., myself and Caesar! The current Avas hard to battle against, and our three men Avith their poles
ESPERANZA TO PUERTA BERMUDEZ 67 a n d paddles h a d their Avork cut out for t h e m . We spread a Avaterproof sheet over t h e bamboos a t t h e b o t t o m of t h e canoe a n d sat thereon. I t was very hard, a n d Ave soon became cramped, especially as t h e canoe was not intended for so m a n y persons. The big luggage canoe, AA'hich Avas Aery heavy, was soon passed, b u t caught us u p again whilst Ave were
LEAVING
SANTA
ZITA
finishing our picnic lunch on a rocky piece of " p l a y a . " We immensely enjoyed our lunch of sardines, p o t t e d m e a t a n d biscuit. Mr. Robilliard is a treasure of h u m o u r on such occasions. The butterflies all along t h e b a n k s Avere beautiful, and I a m looking forward t o catching some good specimens to-morrow. W e arrived a t P u e r t a Bermudez a t 2 P.M., a n d w e n t straight t o t h e Avireless telegraphy office. I
68 MANAOS TO LIMA found that I had been mistaken in thinking the Avireless ran all the Avay to Lima from Massisea. It only runs as far as Puerta Bermudez, and then the telephone goes on from here. We found that the telephone had broken down between here and Lima, and that no ansAver had been received to our message to Tarma about the
PICNIC LUNCH ON A ROCKY PIECE OF PLAYA
From the left: G. M. K.. Caesar, Tregoning, Captain Good (behind the natives), and Air. Robilliard.
mules, and no one eAen kneAv if the message had been received. So Ave had to begin bargaining Avith Mr. Crawford's friend here, Sehor Ribero, about mules, and he says he can giY'e us seY^en at Puerta Jessupi. We really need fifteen at least if AVC carry all our provisions Avith us, but Ave shall probably haAe to leaY'e a good deal behind, unless Ave can get more mules. There Avas a good deal of haggling as to price, &c, and Ave Avere naturally
ESPERANZA TO PUERTA BERMUDEZ
60
rather in their power, as Ave wish to do this trip, and they monopolise the means of our doing it ! We settled at last for 81 sols each mule each day When Ave had finished our discussion, Captain Good and Mr. Robilliard got up to go. They \vere
WIRELESS TELEGRAPHY STATION. BERMUDEZ
to be back with the Elisa this evening, and it was already 4.15. Suddenly a boy came running up to say that the large canoe belonging to the Elisa, in Avhich Captain Good and Mr, Robilliard were going back, had just gone off Avith the t\vo sailors of the Elisa. What these two bovs did it for, no one knows.
70
MANAOS T O LIMA
T h e y m u s t have t h o u g h t t h a t C a p t a i n Good a n d Mr. R. were going on with us, a n d their only business was t o get back t o t h e Elisa as soon as possible. Mr. CraAvford took one of his canoes a n d t h e y Avent off in t h a t , leaving us r a t h e r short, b u t I hope Ave shall be able t o get tAvo others.
OCR INDIAN CANOE BOA'S AT BERMUDEZ
T h e y say Ave can only s t a r t t h e day after tomorroAv, as t h e men need a rest after their hard d a y ' s Avork, a n d our remaining canoe needs tinkering. The t a m b o here is far from uncomfortable ; it has a low t h a t c h e d roof, t h e usual b a m b o o Avails, t h r o u g h Avhich all the children come a n d observe one, and a good solid m u d floor. I t is Aery airy,
ESPERANZA TO PUERTA BERMUDEZ
71
and as Ave have our OAvn beds, I think Ave shall be all right. This evening Ave tried a dinner entirely provided by the tambo, to learn Avhat sort of food to
CANOEING FROM BERMUDEZ TO J E S S U P I
expect should insufficiency of mules compel us to abandon some of our OAvn stores. It Avas not very good—but acceptable to the hungry April 14 : We spent a very hot morning catching butterflies. G. M. B. found a spot on the beach where they Avere SAvarming, and I caught SAvalloAV-
72
MANAOS T O LIMA
tails, a n d butterflies yelloAv, orange, sapphire a n d scarlet. B u t those I covet t h e m o s t are t h e metallic a n d turquoise-blue, very large a n d most difficult t o catch. I haAe not succeeded in securing one as yet. T h e y fly high a n d v e r y rapidly, and I haYe rarely seen t h e m settle, excepting for an instant. This afternoon AVC Avent to t h e wireless telegraphy office a n d sent an ansAver t o Captain W a t r i n ' s message from Massisea this morning. It is Avonderful a n d inconceivable t o me ! Senor R i b e r o came this m o r n i n g a n d told us he h a d secured four or five more mules for us a t P u e r t a Jessupi, m a k i n g a b o u t tAvehe in all. I t Avill be a great joy t o be able t o t a k e our OAvn food. T h e Governor or Commissioner of this place came this afternoon a n d gaY'e us m u c h useful information as t o t h e roads Ave are a b o u t to take a n d t h e coldness of t h e m o u n t a i n s . W e slept last night on our Y'ery comfortable " N " beds in our " Jaeger " bags, a n d I Avas glad to get into tAvo layers, a n d eA'en t h e n h a d quite chilly feet in t h e morning. Of course Ave are practically sleeping in the open air. To-dav has been blue skA' a n d sun all t h e time. April 15 : We got u p a t 5 A.M. P a c k e d and h a d our breakfast at a b o u t 6. The canoes and I n d i a n s arriYred a t t h a t hour, b u t only tYvo canoes instead of t h r e e . We could not pack all our luggage a n d ourseh'es into tAvo canoes, a n d had been promised three b y Sehor Ribero, Avho IIOAV
BERMUDEZ TO JESSUPI
73
said he had made no such promise. G. M. B. arose in righteous indignation, and at the end of an hour, and Avith the help of the Commissioner. Avho Avas very kind, Sehor R. gave in and Ave took on his canoe. The Indians took some time getting our luggage
CANOEING FROM BERMUDEZ TO J E S S U P I
on to the boats, and it Avas 8 o'clock before Ave started. I think George's Avrath. and the masterful manner in Avhich the Avhole thing Avas carried out, Avill be the talk of the little village of Bermudez for some time. The riAer Avas shalloAv, and Ave Avere generally in only tAvo or three feet of Avater, although the river Avas verv fairly broad, 200 to 250 ft. all the time.
74
MANAOS TO LIMA
The day s t a r t e d cool a n d r a t h e r dull, b u t b y eleven t h e sunshine Avas brilliant. W e rested t h e men a n d h a d our own lunch on a h o t sandy beach. We spent thirty-five m i n u t e s only, a n d t h e n proceeded. In some p a r t s t h e riAer was so rapid a n d so shalloAV t h a t t h e men Avere obliged t o get out a n d pull the canoes along. I t Avas h a r d work, a n d sometimes it seemed almost impossible t h a t Ave could pass t h e shalloAvs. HoAvever, t h e men Avere extraordinarily active, a n d m a n a g e d Aery well. Our Herculean doctor helped t o pull t h e b o a t seYreral times, and splashed us all over in his efforts. The scenery Avas not particularly beautiful until Ave came Avithin near sight of t h e m o u n t a i n s . They are a most refreshing sight in this flat, Avet country. I t is so Avonderful to see blue distance a n d undulations. The m o u n t a i n s are not high, a b o u t 4000 ft., a n d covered to t h e Aery t o p Avith t h e eYerlasting trees. At 4.30 Ave arriAed at t h e place of disembarkation for P u e r t a Jessupi. W e Avere disappointed and surprised to find t h a t t h e t a m b o of Jessupi was nearly a mile from t h e riAer, so t h a t t h e luggage h a d t o be carried all t h a t distance. The Indians Avere tired Avith their d a y ' s Avork, a n d in any case are not much good a t carrying heaYy Aveights, so George, Mr. Tregoning a n d Dr. H o r t o n determined to carry t h e things u p t h e m s e h e s . G. loaded himself Avith a huge ground-sheet full of heaYW things a n d staggered away, looking r a t h e r like an a n t carrying a leaf tAvice or three times its OAYTI size ! I h u n g myself Avith all t h e little things, such as cameras, binoculars, h a t s a n d coats, and Mr. T.
BERMUDEZ TO JESSUPI
75
a n d Dr. H . shouldered a large tin box. a heavy bag a n d our b u c k e t canteen. The m u d on t h e p a t h was aAvful, a n d Ave Avere often u p to our knees in it a n d q u i t e Avet t h r o u g h . We Avere laughing at o u r s e h e s so much t h a t Ave could hardly Avalk, and Dr. H o r t o n took a header oAer a tree s t u m p ; t h e tin box shot over his head, a n d he nearly impaled himself on another s t u m p . G. M. B . Avas quite exhausted Avhen Ave at last
OUR DAY OF REST AT J E S S U P I
reached t h e t a m b o . b u t started back again to fetch more luggage, and Avas really dead b e a t by t h e time he h a d finished. Mine host of t h e t a m b o receiY'ed us someAvhat coldly, Avhich I d i d n ' t Avonder at, considering Avhat apparitions Ave m u s t have appeared to him, all loaded a n d perspiring. B u t C?esar, our " c r i a d o , " very soon p u t things right by informing t h e gentleman Avhat great and i m p o r t a n t people Ave really Avere ! After a good b a t h and an excellent supper, Avhich began Avith refreshing Maggi Consomme, Ave all felt " good,"
76
MANAOS TO LIMA
a n d willingly got into our nice J a e g e r bags. Our mules Avill not be ready until t h e day after to-morrow, so AVC shall haY'e all to-morroAv here, a n d shall be Aery glad of t h e o p p o r t u n i t y to clean o u r s e h e s a n d our clothes. The river to-day Avas beautifully clear, a n d had a faint suspicion of glacier green. I found m v air-cushion v e n ' useful ; so did thin G. M. B . ! April 16 : W e sent a telegram via Lima to Liverpool, asking t h e m t o send us a Avire as to neAvs of our family I t Avill be good hearing hoAv little D . is. We h a v e n ' t heard since Manaos, March 13. W e all h a d capital nights. Although there are Aery feAv mosquitoes, Ave are obliged t o keep to our mosquito-nets because of t h e vampires. They are Aery dangerous here, a n d I believe most of the way t o T a r m a . Their bites m a k e their Y'ictim A'ery Aveak from loss of blood, a n d also m a k e a n a s t y open Avound A\hich does n o t heal for some time, a n d Avould be especially annoying t o us as t h e y frequently bite t h e toes, a n d so render walking impossible for some d a y s . The Doctor Avas sitting on his bed j u s t before gett i n g in, a n d one of these horrible creatures settled on his hand, a n d he h a d hastily to shake it off. We haA'e spent a Aery busy day Avashing our d i r t y things a n d getting our boots and gaiters Avell dried a n d greased. The mules fetched our remaining luggage u p to t h i s t a m b o , so t h a t Ave are in luxury IIOAV.
TAMBO JESSUPI
/ /
Four eggs turned up unexpectedly for lunch ! Generally Avhen Ave haAe asked for eggs, although chickens are running all round the house, Ave are told " No hav ! "
MY BATH-TOWEI. KIMONO
G. M. B. and I had a splendid bathe in the little stream quite close to the tambo, but luckily out of sight, as Ave bathed a la Adam and Eve ! G. and Dr. Horton haAe designed a change for
78
MANAOS TO LIMA
m e in t h e evening, in t h e shape of a huge bathtoAvel, Avith a hole for t h e h e a d a n d very elegant kimono sleeves. I t is lovely to Avear. Mrs. Mine H o s t seAved it for me Avith her seAving machine. April 17 : W e rose early a n d Yvaited for our mules. The rain came doAvn hard, a n d Avhen it cleared a little t h e mules began t o appear. Sefior Ribero Avas full of excuses because he h a d only brought ten. One, he said, h a d h u r t his foot, a n d tAvo others had " e s c a p a d o . " Sefior R.. Avho is a tremendous chatterbox, d i d n ' t seem t o be able t o get off a t all. G. M. B . lost his temper, a n d Sefior Ribero, thinking G. Avas going t o strike his brother, interposed, a n d also became full of AA'rath, and said he Avouldn't haA-e it. HoAveA'er, G. M. B . explained, giY'ing Mr. Tregoning a h e a r t y bloAV on t h e leg, t o pixwe t h a t he m e a n t no h a r m , a n d t h e packing of t h e mules commenced, after hand-shaking all r o u n d . I t Avas finished a t last, a n d AAre s t a r t e d a t 11.20 Avith nine mules packed Avith our food, beds, &c., a n d one mule free for m e t o ride, Avhich Avas eventually h u n g Avith cameras, pouches, & c , as I didn't Avant t o ride till I Avas tired. F o u r food-boxes and t h e chairs were left behind for t h e escapado mules to bring later. Mine host a n d his family, haYing received their c u e n t a (£2), bade us farewell. T h e road Avas b r o a d a n d Aery very m u d d y . We had t o pick our Avay Avith t h e greatest care in order n o t t o sink u p to our knees, a n d t h e heaY'ily laden
TAMBO JESSUPI TO CASA RIBERO
79
mules h a d a b a d time, poor animals. At one specially b a d place Avith a m u d d y stream at the b o t t o m of a Aery m u d d y dip, t h r e e or four of t h e mules came t o grief. T h e men hoisted t h e m u p again successfully all b u t one, Avhich fell on his side in t h e stream, with m y bed b e n e a t h him. T h e men Avere obliged to u n b u r d e n him, and eY^en
CASA
RIBERO
t h e n he Avas so sunk in t h e m u d t h a t he could h a r d l y get u p . At last, after nearly three miles done in one hour a n d ten minutes, Ave arrived a t Sefior Ribero's house, n a m e d T a m b o Cinchihuaqui. I t is called after t h e R i v e r Cinchihuaqui, on t h e b a n k s of Avhich it s t a n d s . Sefior R. tells us t h a t Cinchihuaqui Avas t h e son of t h e first Inca, Manco. W e Avaited here for t h e night, and t h e tAvo
80
MANAOS TO LIMA
escapado mules h a v i n g been found, t h e y were sent back t o Jessupi t o fetch t h e rest of t h e luggage. The c o u n t r y has been quite flat so far, a n d not very interesting. There Avere some Avonderful little crimson a n d black birds sitting on t h e b a n a n a - t r e e s here, a n d also tAvo t a m e kinds of t u r k e y s , black with scarlet beaks, a n d indigenous t o Peru. We h a d a splendid b a t h e in t h e Cinchihuaqui, a n d spent a quiet refreshing afternoon. Sefior Ribero a n d family h a v e been quite Avon over by G. M. B., a n d Sefior R. is going t o Avrite an account of us a n d all our doings in some local paper. We shall Y'ery m u c h enjoy reading it. April 18 : W e Avere to have s t a r t e d a t seYen this m o r n i n g . B u t it took some t i m e t o get t h e mules together, a n d although t h e B r o t h e r s Ribero are Y'ery good a t loading Avhen once theA' get started, they m e d i t a t e on it for some t i m e before. At ten m i n u t e s to nine, hoAveAer, t h e caYalcade Avas under A\ay. The t r a c k Avas difficult a t first, in fact for t h e first five kilometres t h e mules h a d a fearful time in deep m u d . I t Avas a t times most distressing to see t h e m struggling in t h e stiff red clay and Avater, Avith our heaAy bags on their poor sore backs. HoAveAer, it got someAA-hat b e t t e r later on, a n d Ave all felt happier. The " senora's " mule Avas loaded to-day, and Ave also h a d three more this morning, so t h a t there Avere t h i r t e e n in all. One could not possibly haAe ridden. The p a t h Avas narroAV all t h e Avay, a n d a t first Ave passed through a Yeiw ordinary tropical forest of
CASA RIBERO TO MIRIATIRIANE
81
palm-trees a n d great cotton-trees ; also some quaint, b u t n o t beautiful, crimson floAvers. At 11.45 AVC arriAcd a t Agoachini, and h a d lunch
THE PATH THROUGH THE FOREST
there. An I n d i a n took us across t h e river on a r a f t ; a n d G . M. B., Mr. T., a n d Dr. H . all b a t h e d . I t Avas a lovely little river, very rocky in p a r t s , Avith beautiful d a r k green pools. I Avas glad t o sit doAvn a n d h a v e a drink a n d some food. The F
82
MANAOS TO LIMA
hostess gave us some delicious pine-apples, Avhich were particularly acceptable to us poor thirsty souls. We proceeded after lunch ; the path became more rocky, and every noAv and then a regular mountain stream Avith large bouldery rocks crossed it. We had been ascending nearly all the Avay. Some of the glimpses of blue tree-clad mountainsides Avere very beautiful, but unless deliberately stopping to admire the Y'iew, it is quite impossible to look at anything but the path and one's feet. Rocks, stones, tree-stumps and mud-pits lie in wait at each footstep. The mules are wonderful at picking their Avay across impossible-looking places, and are much safer on their legs than Ave are Avhen it comes to rock-climbing. Unluckily, as the day began Avith a little rain, I had taken my butterfly-net to pieces and packed it, so that I felt much annoyed AAdien numerous large black and blue butterflies fleAv and settled on our path, and could haY'e been quite easily caught. I Avas tired and footsore by the time Yve a r m e d at Miriatiriane, and glad to sit in a chair AAiiilst G. M. B. did the hard Avork. We haY'e been fifteen miles in six hours, and some of it Y'ery hard going indeed. Julius Caesar has stood it very well, and is at present amusing the company Avith funny stories. It Avas good seeing the mules unloaded of their packs and rolling heartily in the grass.
M I R I A T I R I A N E TO AZUPIZU
83
April 1 9 : Easter Sunday: Felt very stiff t h i s morning, a n d m y feet very sore. W e Avere ready a n d t h e mules packed b y 7.30, only one mule Avas hiding someAvhere a n d could n o t be found. The others Avent on a n d we waited till t h e mule Avas discovered, Avhich Avasn't till almost 9 o'clock. There Avere fourteen mules to-day, so I h a d one to ride Avhen I liked, Avhich I did frequently, riding a b o u t half t h e t i m e . The p a t h t h r o u g h t h e forest hill-side was perfectly lovely. I haY'e neYer enjoyed scenery so m u c h . The Avay Avas narroYv, a n d t h e beautiful m o u n t a i n riYer, Azupizu, t h u n d e r e d doAvn its rocky course b y our sides. A t times one felt quite giddy looking doAvn at t h e great Avaterfalls a n d green pools from t h e little p a t h of a b o u t one metre, a n d often n o t m u c h more t h a n a foot, Avide, Avith rock sheer doAvn on one side a n d sheer u p on t h e other. The c o m b i n a t i o n of m o u n t a i n o u s countrA' a n d rich tropical forest is Avonderful, and t h e climate is quite perfect, h o t sun and cool breezes. E n o r m o u s blue butterflies flashed by, like small pieces of escaped heaY'en, a n d t h e trees h a d Avhat resembled great baskets hanging from their branches full of ferns, a n d floAvers growing in profusion. E v e r y noAv a n d t h e n a huge t r u n k Avould lie across t h e Avay, generally high above our heads, with a garden of green things groAving on t h e upper side. T h e smells too Avere delicious, a n d one longed t o sit doAvn a n d remain there for hours. B u t Ave w e n t toiling along a n d did our fifteen miles, a n d did it in six h o u r s .
84
MANAOS TO LIMA
Then a splendid b a t h e in one of t h e green pools of very cold Avater Avas Avonderfully refreshing, although I was so footsore I Avas obliged t o craAvl on h a n d s a n d knees. We saAv one shot-green h u m m i n g - b i r d , a n d I c a u g h t one of t h e pieces of escaped heaven, falling a b o u t on t h e rocks a n d scraping m y knees in t h e effort. April 20 : We s t a r t e d early this morning again, a n d forded t h e Azupizu RiAer. The host of the Azupizu T a m b o Avould t a k e no money for our lodging a n d t h e fire provided for t h e cooking. The forest Avas much t h e same as yesterday, b u t Ave h a d more climbing, so in spite of t h e p a t h being good all t h e Avay, it Avas tiring for t h e mules, Avho, poor beasts, h a d no fodder a t t h e last t a m b o beyond AAdiat t h e y could pick u p , and so Avere far from fit. One mule, Avho began t h e journey " m u y c a n s a d a , " could only j u s t struggle on to-day, and a t the last stiff bit of climb Caliban h a d t o carry t h e load. She is to be left here to-morroAv, a n d Ave t a k e on tAvo fresh ones. The rocky sides of t h e p a t h Avere especially steep to-day, a n d several times I Avas obliged t o get off m y mule t o avoid haA'ing m y knees scratched and m y head knocked off by overhanging rock. W e accomplished 9.1 miles in all, a n d arrived a t San Nicolas T a m b o quite early, a t 1.15. Unluckily t h e r e is no Avater close to t h e t a m b o , a n d Ave h a d t o Avalk a long Avay back t o b a t h e and get our drinking Avater. The b a t h e Avas quite Avorth it a n d YerYr necessarY', as there is o n h ' t i m e
AZUPIZU TO TAMBO SAN NICOLAS 85 for t h e m i n i m u m of Avashing before our early s t a r t . We haY'e heard m u c h of the rain here, b u t so far haYe h a d only a feAv drops since AVC left Jessupi. a n d t o - d a y Avas gloriously sunshiny, Avith a deep blue sky. T h e butterflies Avere out in profusion, a n d I c a u g h t r a t h e r a poor specimen of t h e large blue a n d black kind. During lunch. Mr. Tregoning
ST. NICOLAS
c a u g h t me a splendid specimen of t h e same, which I Avas delighted t o get. I also c a u g h t some of a Avonderful large crimson a n d blue species. The hostess of this t a m b o is t h e m o t h e r of a small b a b y , not a m o n t h old. I t is very queer t o see t h e Avay it is handled a n d t a k e n first by one small child a n d t h e n by another. The tiny unconscious little piece of h u m a n i t y . The night is lovely, t h e sky full of stars a n d e v e r y t h i n g is a t peace.
86
MANAOS T O L I M A
April 21 : W e spent a very disturbed night. At 3 A.M. t h e men s t a r t e d packing t h e mules, a n d t h e lady of t h e b a b y s t a r t e d talking a n d calling ' Victoria, Victoria." Victoria is aged a b o u t six, a n d she has an elder sister of a b o u t seventeen, a small brother of eight, a n d t w o little b a b y b r o t h e r s . When AVC Avoke u p (or r a t h e r got u p !) a t 5.30, most of t h e mules h a d gone off Avith t h e luggage, leaving us three for our beds a n d one for myself t o ride. Much to our surprise t h e lady of t h e baby, Victoria, a n d t h e rest of t h e children h a d also started. As usual, one of t h e mules h a d escapado a n d Avas noAA'here t o be found, so Ave Avent off a t last a t 7.30, leaving y o u n g Sefior R i b e r o t o search further for t h e lost mule. After an h o u r ' s rain it began t o clear u p , a n d although it rained interm i t t e n t l y t h e Avhole day, it Avas n o t Aery Avetting. We soon overtook t h e seiiora Avith her b a b y in her arms, prepared t o Avalk to T a m b o 93, a distance of over 22 miles ! H e r eldest d a u g h t e r Avas Avith her. W e h a d our lunch a t a m o u n t a i n stream, a n d t h e n overtook Victoria a n d her small b r o t h e r seated on a large Avhite mule, t h e b r o t h e r aged eight leading it. The p o s t m a n Avas carrying t h e b a b y b r o t h e r on his back in a sack. We gaYe t h e children chocolate, I dare say t h e only food t h e y h a d during t h e day ! T h e vieAv to-day over t h e great Avooded hills for miles a n d miles, a n d all in Aarying shades of blue a n d purple Avith clouds SAveeping oY'er t h e Avhole, Avas very lovely. G. M. B . h a d calculated t h a t Ave should do our 221 miles in eight hours, alloAving an hour for lunch a n d stoppages, b u t a t four o'clock Ave Avere still
SAN NICOLAS TO TAMBO 93
87
walking, a n d no t a m b o in sight. We h a d left t h e luggage mules a long Avay back, Avhile Mr. Tregoning a n d Dr. H o r t o n Avere a good \vay ahead. A t last we began t o t h i n k t h a t Ave m u s t haA'c passed t h e t a m b o by mistake, a n d h a d almost m a d e u p our minds to t u r n back, Avith t h e prospect of spending t h e night on t h e road, when a t five o'clock G. M. B . , Avho h a d hurried ahead of me, sighted t h e T a m b o of 03. We found t h a t Dr. H . a n d Mr. T. h a d safely arriAed. They too h a d imagined t h a t they h a d passed the t a m b o a n d Avould haAe to spend t h e night b u t . W e Avaited an hour for t h e luggage mules. Avhich came at last, h a r d l y in t i m e for us t o u n p a c k before d a r k . At 7.30 in marched Ribero a n d t h e missing mule. H e h a d n o t found it until 10.30, and h a d m a r c h e d ever since Avithout food or drink. Victoria a n d her brothers h a d arrived quite safely u n d e r t h e care of t h e p o s t m a n , b u t t h e seiiora Avith her b a b y a n d her d a u g h t e r haAe not vet t u r n e d u p , a n d they will haAe to sleep in t h e forest in t h e cold a n d Avet, Avith their dripping clothing. I a m afraid t h e b a b y YY ill die, it seems too horrible. Caliban, Avho Avas kicked yesterday by one of t h e mules, Avas so lame t h a t he couldn't keep u p a t all, a n d he, too, Avill h a v e to sleep by t h e road. April 22 : Tambo 93 to Tambo 71 : Caliban hobbled in very early a n d absolutely refused to be left behind a t T a m b o 93, b u t said t h a t he Avould t r u d g e on in order t o help in loading every morning. Poor Caliban ! I a m afraid it Avill m e a n t h a t he m u s t
88
MANAOS TO LIMA
spend t h e night, every night, on t h e road, a n d only arrive every morning j u s t in t i m e t o help load t h e mules. Doctor H o r t o n Avas quite busy doctoring at T a m b o 93 ; he administered lotion t o a child with a mysterious rash, a n d pulled out t h e t o o t h of a n o t h e r child, for Avhich t h e hostess and m o t h e r of t h e tAvo children Avas very grateful. To-day Ave did 13f miles in seven hours ! T h e t r a c k was shocking, Avith Aery stiff climbs, a n d Avalking, b y no means easy a t first, Avas for t h e last three hours extremely difficult. There Avere deep mud-holes a n d rocky uneven p a t c h e s ; i t was so narrow a n d overhung t h a t t h e branches a n d undergroAvth hit one's face constantly, and dragged a t t h e b u r d e n s on t h e mules' backs. Nor was it often possible t o lift t h e eyes from t h e ground for fear of slipping in t h e bog or off t h e p a t h altogether, Avhile, even Avhen s t a n d i n g still, one could see nothing a r o u n d or above, so thick AA'as t h e foliage—altogether it Avas a tiresome dreary day. The mules Avere very tired a n d hungry, as they h a d h a d no proper fodder a t T a m b o 93. TAVO of t h e m h a d great raAv places on their stomachs where t h e rope Avhich binds t h e luggage h a d Avorn into t h e m . I t is Y'ery distressing. G. M. B . a n d I h a d a n a s t y s t a r t a n d fright this morning. We Avere Avalking along quite quietly w i t h m y mule betAveen us a n d t h e rest of t h e cavalcade on in front, Avhen suddenly, j u s t behind us, we heard a noise like pistol-shots, and Ave t u r n e d round quickly to see a large tree falling right across t h e p a t h a b o u t tAventy yards behind us.
TAMBO 71 TO TAMBO ENENAS
89
I t all h a p p e n e d in ten seconds, a n d if I h a d been c a u g h t riding m y mule, as I very well might h a v e been doing, nothing could have saved us from being sAvept doAvn t h e precipice into t h e Avaterfall b e n e a t h . This T a m b o of 71 is a most poor and badly k e p t place. We haY'e a real pigsty t o sleep in (Avith a hen in her nest in one corner of t h e room), and poor Mr. Tregoning a n d Dr. H o r t o n share their large room with four or hve of t h e muleteers and some r a t h e r smelly dry m e a t ! We shall be Aery glad to get t o more comfortable q u a r t e r s to-morrow. April 23 : W e s t a r t e d a b o u t 7.30, a n d h a d much pleasure in leaving t h e unclean T a m b o 71 a n d its unattractiA'e host, Sefior Garcia. Our q u a r t e r s AA'ere Y'ery uncomfortable. Mr. Tregoning and Dr. H o r t o n h a d eight other men in their room at night, a n d Sefior Garcia h a d t h e effrontery to charge us 105. The other t a m b o hosts h a d either refused money altogether or h a d said Ave might pay Avhat Ave t h o u g h t fit. G. M. B . a n d I left t h e t a m b o last of all, and m y mule had been getting in r a t h e r a fume from seeing all t h e others s t a r t off, so Avhen I m o u n t e d and G. M. B . AA'as Avalking behind, t h e mule started Avalking Aery fast, h u r r y i n g more and more, until a t last he broke into a t r o t a n d t h e n a canter. The p a t h Avas m u d d y , rocky a n d Aery n a r r o w , Avith t h e usual precipice on one side. At first I t h o u g h t it r a t h e r fun t o be h u r r y i n g on, b u t Avhen I found I could not stop him (as I only h a d a rope r o u n d his nose, a n d bloAvs with m y long stick in
90
MANAOS TO LIMA
front of t h e nose only m a d e him go faster), I began to be very nervous, as Ave careered chamois-like from one rock to another, a n d plunged into endless m u d d y pits. At last I m a d e u p m y mind t h a t I h a d b e t t e r leave m y mule, in case a plunge took us in t h e Avrong direction, so I slipped off, a n d the rmde Avas so astonished to see me on t h e ground t h a t for a m o m e n t he stopped ; t h e n seeing G. M. B . come p a n t i n g u p , he s t a r t e d off again with the rope hanging round his feet. Poor G. M. B . running after him (so t h a t I should n o t h a v e so far to Avalk Avithout any chance of riding) came a cropper, owing t o a piece of t h e ground giA'ing Avay on one side of him ; one of his legs knocked u p against an old t r e e - s t u m p , a n d he almost fell down t h e precipice. H e h u r t his t h u m b and badly bruised his leg, b u t Avent on, a n d after a h a r d run secured t h e mule, Avho h a d reached those in front and Avas Avalking along quite quietly. H e b r o u g h t him back to me, b u t it Avas some time before I could m a k e u p my mind to m o u n t again, a n d then only Avith G. M. B . Avalking in front ! I t Avas altogether a Y'ery miserable and uncomfortable morning, and Ave b o t h felt badly used. G. M. B . c a u g h t m e a fine specimen of t h e large blue butterfly a n d later on a n o t h e r one, not quite so good. The road Avas b a d nearly all t h e Avay, and the d a y r a t h e r d r e a r y a n d cloudy. HoAveY^er, Ave arrived at this pleasant place, E n e h a s , a t tAvo o'clock, a n d h a d time t o dry a feAv of our things and h a v e a good Avash. There are a n u m b e r of small houses here, a n d t h e t a m b o is owned bA' an
ENENAS TO LLAPAZ
91
I t a l i a n . Cresto. H e is building a nice airy t a m b o , properly p u t together a n d clean. W e have our meals in it a n d sleep in t h e old t a m b o , as t h e . bedrooms of this one are n o t ready Sefior Cresto OAVIIS t h e Avhole place, has pigs (Avith straight tails), foAvls, fresh milk, as Avell as a nice Avife, three little girls, a n d a small boy I t is Avonderful Avhat he has done Avith t h e place. April 24 : W e s t a r t e d this morning in t h e pouring rain, a n d I Avas stupid enough not t o p u t on my poncho a t first, because I t h o u g h t it Avouldn't be long before t h e sun came out, so t h a t I Avas soon Avet t o t h e skin a n d Yrery chilly. The rain neYer ceased all t h e time, so a t last I p u t m y poncho oY'er m y Avet t u n i c a n d k e p t myself from getting Avetter a n d Avetter, b u t it Avas horribly clammy a n d I c o u l d n ' t sit on t h e mule for long, b u t h a d t o Avalk to keep myself Avarm. There Avas t h e same thick, red, sticky clay t h a t Ave h a d h a d on our tAvo first d a y s ' b a d road. I dare say t h e continual h e a v y rain m a d e it Avorse t h a n usual, b u t surely a t no t i m e can t h e road be considered good. Indeed, most of t h e Avay riding Avas impossible, as t h e m u d Avas so heaYy. Our d i s a p p o i n t m e n t Avas great, as Ave h a d been promised a good road all t h e Avay. We did nineteen miles and arrived here a t Llapaz all tired out. Llapaz is no bigger a n d not so t i d y as E n e h a s . The t a m b o is much dirtier, and, as Ave Avent t o bed, Ave AVCIC told t h a t t h e " Yampiro " were very plentiful, a n d t h a t Ave m u s t p u t u p our mosquito-nets for t h e night. Soon after
92
MANAOS TO LIMA
AVC h a d p u t out t h e lights AVC h e a r d t h e m circling all round t h e n e t s . I no longer haAe t h e same c o n t e m p t for t h e rain of t h e Andes. We hear t h r o u g h t h e telephone t h a t t h e " lady and b a b y " have arrived safely a t 93. I t seems a miracle ! April 25 : G. M. B . and I stayed on a t Llapaz, a n d Mr. Tregoning and Dr. H o r t o n Avent on t o La Merced. They s t a r t e d Avith most of t h e luggage a n d Avith a mule each t o ride, so t h a t t h e y ought t o be able t o do their twenty-scY'en miles p r e t t v easily. W e stay here p r o b a b l y till Monday, a n d keep C a s a r a n d Caliban (AA'hose real n a m e is Feliz) as cook and muleteer. I t Avas Aery pleasant getting u p late a n d p u t t i n g on dry Avarm boots instead of t h e usual clammy and icy ones Ave have lately been obliged to Avear. This afternoon Avas beautifully sunny, a n d Llapaz looked Aery loA'ely Avith its small stream, b a n a n a orchard, COAVS and general farm effect. I t is not nearly so Avell k e p t as Sefior Cresto's estate a n d t a m b o a t Enefias, b u t eY'ervthing seems t o grow a n d do Avell of its own accord : the p a s t u r e is splendid a n d t h e cattle look like prize cattle. G. M. B . a n d I sat doAvn t o our P r e s c o t t ' s " Peru " this afternoon, b u t Avere soon obliged t o give it up, for t h e proprietor s t a r t e d s t r u m m i n g on his guitar, while t h e rest of t h e c o m p a n y sang abominably to his abominable a c c o m p a n i m e n t of one chord ! They s a n g of Pass-i-on, b u t Ave couldn't m a k e out Avhat
LLAPAZ
93
sort of Pass-i-on it Avas, Avhether E a s t e r or t h e other ! An engineer Avith his Avife a n d b a b y arrived from L a Merced this morning on their Avay to Massisea,
Avhere t h e g e n t l e m a n is going to engineer one of t h e G o v e r n m e n t launches. I a m afraid Ave gave honest b u t u n a t t r a c t i v e accounts of t h e journey a n d t h e mosquitoes on t h e Ucayali. April 2 6 : Sunday : W e spent a very disturbed night. T h e Avife of t h e engineer (on his Avav t o
94
MANAOS TO LIMA
Massisea), who is a very excitable a n d Avild-looking woman, took too m u c h wine, a n d spent m o s t of the n i g h t talking loudly and crying a t intervals. I t h o u g h t she Avas m a d a n d m i g h t come into our room a t a n y m o m e n t , b u t she got no farther t h a n t h e dining-room, Avhere all t h e men Avere sleeping, a n d there Avas c a u g h t b y her h u s b a n d , a n d after m a n y remonstrances on t h e p a r t of t h e proprietor, Avas a t last p u t back t o bed, Avhere, after a fe\v more loud expostulations a n d tears on her p a r t , she m u s t h a v e gone t o sleep, for we h e a r d no more. B u t by t h e time t h e t a m b o Avas quiet it Avas 3 A.M. P o o r h u s b a n d e n g i n e e r ! G. M. B . a n d I were wondering in t h e evening Avhat m a d e t h e m a n take such an u n a t t r a c t i v e job as engineer on board one of those small G o v e r n m e n t launches in t h a t hot a n d mosquito-ridden p a r t of t h e country, b u t as I layr in bed listening t o t h e Avife's Avild talking I t h o u g h t t h a t even life in a cramped a n d stuffy launch would be b e t t e r t h a n t h a t ! They s t a r t e d off for E n e h a s r a t h e r late—the Avoman riding one mule, a n d t h e husband, baby a n d gun on a n o t h e r . They Avere an odd-looking caraAan. We h a d no Avord from Mr. Tregoning and Dr. H o r t o n , a n d found out later t h a t t h e telephone Avas broken doAvn, so Ave shall p r o b a b l y only get through t o t h e m early to-morroAv morning, a n d let t h e m k n o w AVC are coming on a n d shall be Avith them to-morroAv evening. A sehorita, Avho is staying here, tells us t h a t a b o u t a year ago there Avas an epidemic of malarial (terciana) fever a t L a Merced, of Avhich OY'er a
LLAPAZ
05
thousand people died. Consequently the trade along this Via Centrale Route has been slack and the roads badly looked after, Avhich accounts for much of our trouble. Late this eAening a good many^ mules arrived
A SMALL PERUVIAN
DEER
from La Merced Avith provisions, &c., bound for Jessupi and Bermudez. A P e r m i a n couple also arrived Avith a Y'ery tiny pet deer, not much bigger than a fox-terrier, and Aery tame indeed. It seems more like a squirrel than anything else, and, the Avoman told me, ahvays slept Avith them ! It is Y-ery curious that although Ave haY'e had
96
MANAOS T O L I M A
several dull days a n d one very rainy one since Ave left Bermudez, every night has been clear, with star-covered sky. April 27 : Feliz, n a m e d Caliban, found a good deal of difficulty in loading t h e mules this morning, and t h e proprietor of t h e Llapaz T a m b o , a most unhelpful m a n , m a d e no a t t e m p t to lend us a m a n t o
VIEW OF OUR LEADING MULES, ROCNDING A CORN'ER OF THE HILL-SIDE
load, so a t last a kind traYciler (the h u s b a n d of t h e lady Avith t h e pet deer) volunteered, a n d Avith his help everything Avas arranged by 7.20 instead of 6.30, as Ave h a d hoped. I t soon became very h o t ; I Avas Avearing m y Avoollen tunic, a n d so got almost unbearably uncomfortable. Caliban, Avhose leg Avas still stiff, c o u l d n ' t get himself or t h e mules along Aery quickly, a n d Avas constantly stopping t o rearrange
LLAPAZ TO LA MERCED
97
the baggage. Ca\sar Avas also feeling " mal en estomaga," so that Ave Avere not a \ r cry fit party for our thirty miles of road. After ascending for about three-quarters of an hour, AVC dropped
LA PUENTE PERUANA
gradually down to La Merced. The path Avas quite good at first, though Aery steep ; later on it Avas rocky, and now and then rather muddy. But from the Puente Peruana omvards the road Avas easy and quite good going for the mules. But it continued getting hotter and hotter, and as AVC passed G
MANAOS TO LIMA 98 through the many banana and coffee plantations, the sun beat doAvn on us until AVC became very Aveary. After the first tAvo or three hours there Avere houses and tambos frequently, and Ave Avere con-
DR. HORTON SENOR TAMAYO SENORA TAMAYO G. M. B .
SENOR CARBAA'AL M. B .
stantly meeting people Avith horses, donkeys and mules, who had evidently been marketing in La Merced. The river accompanied us nearly all the Avay, and Ave crossed it several times by long, narrow, SAvinging bridges. Only two mules at a time are allowed to go across these bridges, for they sAving so much as
L L A P A Z T O LA M E R C E D
99
t o m a k e it h a r d for t h e mules to keep their footing. The great m o u n t a i n s , still Avooded, although eA'ery here a n d t h e r e Avere great patches of green grass, rose nearly sheer from t h e rushing t o r r e n t on each side, a n d t h e narroAV p a t h , still Avith its tropical foliage, m a d e t h e sceneiA' a Aeiw curious combination of Avildness a n d garden luxury.
MARKET PLACE. LA MERCED
The butterflies were Avonderful again, b u t Ave Avere both too h o t and tired t o t a k e the trouble t o catch t h e m . There AA'ere also some Y'ery curious trees Avith a sudden great sAvelling in the t r u n k a b o u t three or four y a r d s from t h e ground. T h e y were handsome a n d tall. Avith leaves t h e shape of a star. W h e n Ave h a d gone three-quarters of t h e Avay, AVC became so tired of goading on Caliban and t h e mules t h a t Yve pushed on b y ourselves Avith t h e one mule for me to ride, soon leaving Caliban a n d Csesar far behind. J u s t as Ave AVC re t u r n i n g into a small p a t h leading t o a house, AVC saAv Jose a n d
100
MANAOS TO L I M A
U m b e r t o Ribero, a n d found t h a t t h e house belonged t o t h e m a n d t h a t Mr. Tregoning a n d Dr. H o r t o n h a d not been able t o get any farther t h a n this house on S a t u r d a y , as t h e mules h a d been so exhausted. G. M. B . and I, hoAvever, decided t o get t o La Merced, so Ave s t a r t e d off again, after Ribero had
ST. RAMON BRIDGE
p u t a Y'ery s m a r t saddle a n d bridle on m y mule, so t h a t m y h i t h e r t o rather rickety old saddle should n o t disgrace me in La Merced. I t got darker a n d darker ; it seemed as if Yve should never get to our place of destination, and at last Ave Avere obliged to get a m a n t o shoAv us the Avay. I could hardly drag myself along any more, a n d Ave Avere overjoyed to hear t h e bells of t h e mules Avith our luggage j u s t behind us. a n d t o find the Riberos on horseback, driving t h e m along a t a good
LLAPAZ TO LA MERCED
101
rate, Avith Caesar riding a fresh mule, poor tired Caliban haA'ing been left at the Casa Ribero. Mr. T. and Dr. H. Avere surprised to see us, as AVC Avere not expected till to-morroAv. and no telegram to say Ave Avere coming had been received. We Avere glad
OUT OF THE WINDOW OF OUR BEDROOM IN THE HCACAPISTANA
HOTEL
to have our dinner at the Hotel Epicure and retire to our beds as quickly as possible. Dr. Horton told us hoAv on their Avay to La Merced one of the mules missed his footing and fell doAvn 60 ft. They could not see him anyAvhere, but he was eventually hauled up, and seemed none
102
MANAOS TO LIMA
t h e Avorse, t h o u g h Dr. H o r t o n said he h a d ne\ r er seen an animal Avith its nerve so shaken. H e could hardly bear it if a stone AA'as knocked off t h e p a t h by m i s t a k e . La Merced to Hotel Huacapistana: April 2 8 : La Merced is quite a little toAvn, Avith some shops
PAI.CA
a n d this Hotel Epicure, Avhich boasts of regular bedrooms a n d a dining-room. Overnight Ave had m e t Delguidiche, t h e mule purveyor from Tarma, a n d he h a d promised t h a t Ave should go off again early this morning. His mules Avere m u c h b e t t e r t h a n t h e Riberos', a n d Ave each h a d a horse t o ride all t h e AvaA'. G. M. B .
LA MERCED TO HUACAPISTANA
103
settled up Avith the Riberos, and AVC managed to get off bAT 10 o clock. We had decided not to stay at
ON THE ROAD FROM HI/ACAPISTANA TO TARMA
La Merced more than one night, as it has a reputation for being extremely unhealthy, oAving to fever (malaria), and it is hot and relaxing. Sefior Tamayo, the controller of the ViaCentrale, and Sehor Carbajal,
104
MANAOS TO LIMA
sanitary engineer of the district, met us in La Merced and rode out with us to a small village called St. Ramon, where Sehor Tamayo lives with his six months' bride. She was ill Avith fever, but struggled
ON THE ROAD FROM HUACAPISTANA TO TARMA
out of bed to see us and giY'e us lunch. I Yvas Y'ery sorry for her, poor thing, she looked so pulled doYvn and ill, but she Yvas anxious to meet us, and gaY'e us a more than ample meal, to Avhich G. M. B. did full justice. We arrived at their house at eleven, and started again at about 2 o'clock. This time I rode Sehor Tamayo's grey horse, as he said it Yvas
LA MERCED
105
so much more comfortable than the one I had been riding on. Delguidiche cried loudly that the grey horse " No seiwe, no serve ! " and Avas quite good for nothing, and that I should rue the day Avhen I took the greYT instead of his steed. It Avas YCIA' hot indeed, and I Avas glad to be in
TARMA GATEWAY ON THE OROYA ROAD
a cotton skirt and shirt, and Avas quite comfortable on my Spanish, or rather Permian, side-saddle. G. M. B. had a Avonderful cream-coloured horse Avith pale blue eyes. It reminded one of Queen Victoria. Both the eyes and the colour ! Sehor Tamayo and Sefior Carbajal were both charming, and so kind to us. They accompanied us till Ave had done half the distance, and then saying good-bye left us to amble on to this Hotel Huacapistana, a
106
MANAOS TO LIMA
nice clean place, as far as I can see consisting only of the hotel. April 2 9 : The H o t e l H u a c a p i s t a n a Avas fairly clean a n d comfortable, a n d after a good rest t h e r e Ave saAv t h e mules off this morning on their Yvay t o T a r m a .
THE
SQUARE
OF TARMA
G. M. B . s a n d Mr. Tregoning's horses h a d escapadoed, so t h a t t h e y Yvere obliged to m a k e shift Avith mules. We rode t h r o u g h a glorious Yalley Avith a narrow river t o r r e n t a n d enormous great boulders on each side. I t Avas Aery fine indeed, and as the road Yvound higher a n d higher t h e m o u n t a i n s became more and more bare, until YVC lost all sight of the Yvooded hills.
HUACAPISTANA TO TAR MA
107
The floAvers became most beautiful—Avild a r u m lilies, geraniums, fuchsias, lupin a n d a Yvonderful kind of cactus Avith a scarlet spike a b o u t tAvo feet in length groAving out of t h e centre of t h e broad leaves. This p l a n t Avas in all t h e niches of the rocks a n d looked Aery h a n d s o m e near t h e Avaterfalls and t o r r e n t s . W e h a d lunch at Palca, a p r e t t y little village of m u d houses. Spanish in appearance.
A RIDE WITH THE PREFECT OF HL'MV
H e r e Mr. Tregoning Avas proA'ided Avith a horse, b u t G. M. B . still stuck to his mule. F r o m here onAvards t h e c o u n t r y Avas full of small villages and houses a n d cultivated land—oats, Avhcat, sAvcet potatoes a n d sugar-cane, t h e fields of Avhich Avere very loYely At a b o u t 2.30 Yve came to t h e village of Acobamba, a n d soon aftenvards m e t a large herd of llamas. Presently a grand officer galloped past us on a charger. H e looked a t us, G. M. B . and myself,
MANAOS TO LIMA 108 rather closely, and then Avent on to Dr. Horton and Mr. Tregoning, Avho were riding behind. He asked Mr. Tregoning if he Avas Sehor Booth, as he had come from the Governor of Tarma to escort Sefior
M. SOLAR S VICUNA
Booth into that town. The gentleman on the mule Yvas designated as Sefior Booth, and he came up to us at a grand gallop and introduced himself as the Governor of Tarma's aide-de-camp. We all rode together, a Aery odd cavalcade: G. M. B., very much the grand shipowner, only on
HUACAPISTANA TO TARMA
109
a h u m b l e mule ; myself, looking as if I had Yvalked all t h e way t h r o u g h m u d from t h e Amazon R i v e r ; a n d Dr. H o r t o n , nonchalant on his large a n d poYverful horse. I t h i n k t h e gallant aide-de-camp Avas r a t h e r a s h a m e d of us as Yve ambled t h r o u g h t h e villages, Yvhilst he caracoled by our sides. H e Avas very proud of his horsemanship, and cwery IIOAV and then
OUR CAVALCADE LEAVING TARMA
Avould spur his horse forYvards to get an unfortunate donkeY' out of t h e Yvay. a n d once he shouted : " El torro, el t o r r o ! "' a n d dashed off after a Y'ery meeklooking little heifer standing in t h e road, a n d Yvith a good deal of style drove the animal into a field Avhilst Ave passed by u n h a r m e d . We Yvere all intensely amused. I t Avas late Avhen Ave reached T a r m a , a n d soon after our arrival a t t h e Hotel de R o m a , t h e Governor himself came r o u n d t o p a y his respects.
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MANAOS TO LIMA
It Yvas so cold that I was obliged to wrap myself up in a rug until the luggage arrived Avith our Avarm change. Tar ma: April 30 : Very cold night, and Ave both slept rather fitfully in consequence. We took a turn round Tarma, and found it a very
SOON AFTER LEAVING TARMA
picturesque little toAvn Avith narroAV streets, and at one end an arched gateway through Yvhich one got a very pretty vieYv of the main street. There are plenty of Avell-stocked shops, and a large open market-place Avith a long YvhiteAvashed church at one side and this hotel on the other. The surrounding mountains give it rather an enclosed appearance.
TARMA
111
G. M. B . Avent Avith Mr. Tregoning t o call on t h e Prefect, Sehor Solare, and in t h e afternoon t h e y Avent for a ride AAith h i m round t h e toAvn a n d environs. I remained behind, as I felt I had h a d enough outings lately The Prefect came to tea. H e talks F r e n c h
CLIMBING UP TO THE 1 3 , 0 0 0 - F T . PLATEAU
perfectly, is a ACIA' agreeable and, I should t h i n k , efficient m a n . H e told us his Avife Avas in L i m a Avith his four children, and t h a t she d i d n ' t care a b o u t coming t o T a r m a ; also t h a t she A\ as stout a n d heaY'y a n d could hardly have m a n a g e d t h e riding. H e gave us a lovely I n d i a n box, a n d G. M. B , gave me a Yvonderfully m a d e green and broYvn poncho Yvbich he h a d b o u g h t this afternoon in a n a t i v e house.
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MANAOS TO LIMA
T h e Prefect b r o u g h t a Vicuna (alive) for us t o see. I t Avas like a light graceful llama Avith lovely soft AVOOI. It is said t h e y are getting v e r y scarce, as t h e y will not breed in captivity, a n d t h e natives are constantly shooting t h e m . Our gallant aide-de-camp came a cropper on the cobbles b y too much over-spurring of his steed !
LUNCH IN A BROAD ORASSY VALLEY
May 1 : A most perfect morning of deep blue sky a n d hot sun scattering t h e morning mists from the mountains. The Prefect a n d a n o t h e r gentleman, Yvhose name I do n o t know, rode out Yvith us three or four miles a n d t h e n said good-bye, leaY'ing us Yvith one soldier as escort. We rode t h r o u g h m a n y small Y'illages, all Yvith houses m a d e of t h e natiYe YelloYv m u d . m a m ' of
TARMA TO OROYA
113
Avhich h a d queer signs over t h e doors, t o keep out t h e deA'il ! T h e women Avear most picturesque colours ; their shaAAis a n d full short skirts are of Avonderful velloAvs a n d oranges. They are neY'er Yvithout bobbin and t h r e a d , a n d generally have a small b a b y slung on their backs. The road Avas s t o m ' and bad most of t h e YvaA'
PERUVIAN WOMAN' WITH BABY
t h o u g h quite dry, b u t t h e horses h a d to pick their Yvay all t h e time. W e had lunch by a tiny stream, in a broad grassy Aalley After lunch Ave had an hour's toil u p a steep Yalley. a n d at last reached a flat open plain Yvith a magnificent Y'ieAv behind us of Avild m o u n t a i n s a n d clouds. A large flock of black and Avhite sheep Avas grazing on the open plain, a n d there Avas a constant traffic of donkeys a n d mules carrying their loads. After a mile or tAvo of plain, Ave descended till Yve reached Oroya. H
114
MANAOS TO LIMA
Poor G. M. B . has a ^ b a d h e a d a c h e , Avhich Yve t h i n k m a y be p a r t l y due t o sorochi or m o u n t a i n sickness. W e m u s t h a v e been u p some 13,000 ft. Casapalca: May 2 : W e h a v e h a d a most disagreeable d a y . W e e m b a r k e d in our L i m a t r a i n a t 10.25, a n d s t a r t e d Yvell. T h e scenery Yvas magnificent, great Yvild rocky m o u n t a i n s , Yvith eY^ery noYv a n d t h e n a sight of snoYv a little farther off. At 12.30 Yve arrived a t a t i n y s t a t i o n called Galera, almost t h e highest p o i n t Yve reached, 15,600 ft. W e Yvere sitting q u i t e quietly Yvaiting for the t r a i n t o proceed, Yvhen suddenly Yve became aYvare of a good deal of noise a n d scuffling, folloYved by tAvo or t h r e e shots. Dr. H o r t o n , AA'ho Avas sitting on t h e side of t h e platform, told us t o keep our heads doAA'n, as t h e soldiers Avere shooting each other. Csesar came in from t h e second-class carriage Avith a Y^eiy pale face, saying t h e soldiers in t h e carriage Avere d r u n k . Some more shots Avere fired ; one of t h e soldiers fell dead, and tAvo of t h e others Avere coYered Yvith blood. The Yvord Yvent round t h a t it Yvas a reY r olution. and presently seYeral men out of uniform (but Yvith Mauser pistols in each h a n d ) , and a small m a n in a brilliant neAv uniform of colonel or general, AY'alked t h r o u g h our carriage, talking ; Yve felt Y'ery neiwous, as YYe d i d n ' t knoAv in t h e least AA'hat Avas happening or Avhether t h e n e x t stray shot m i g h t not laY' one of us IOAV. Very soon three Avounded soldiers Avithout their rifles came out of a small house Avhere t h e uniformed general and his friends h a d been talking, a n d got back into t h e carriage.
CASAPALCA
115
After about half an hour AVC went on. leaving the general and the rest of his folloAvcrs behind. As far as Ave can make out, this is Avhat happened. May 2 Avas CA'idently fixed as the day for an outbreak and revolution against the Government. Fourteen Government soldiers came in our train from Oroya. They had all been made more or less drunk, before they started, by the revolutionary party
LLAMAS AT OROA'A
at Oroya. When Yve a r m e d at Galera station, the revolutionaries boarded the train, and ordered these half-drunken soldiers to give up their arms. Ten of them did so, but the remaining four made a struggle, and the behaviour of the revolutionaries Yvas revolting. These poor soldiers never fired a shot, but Yvere nevertheless hit over heads and faces Yvith the butt-ends of mauser pistols by their antagonists, Avho, having knocked one of the men doAvn, deliberately shot him dead on the ground. The Avhole episode Avas most disgusting and sickening.
116
MANAOS TO LIMA
Colonel Bermudez, t h e little b r u t e in t h e neAV reYolutionary uniform, superintended it all, a n d t o o k prisoner a gentleman in t h e train, Avho h a p p e n s t o be t h e brother-in-laAv of M. Leguia, t h e future president in L i m a . D r . H o r t o n Avent in to a t t e n d to t h e Avounded soldiers, a n d G. M. B . assisted. T h e y found one m a n Avith a b a d Avound from his jaAv t o t h e back of his neck ; luckily t h e bullet h a d j u s t missed his b a c k b o n e . Another h a d a Yvound r u n n i n g from his chest under his a r m t o his back, j u s t missing his collar-bone. D r . H o r t o n dressed t h e m as Avell as he could, Yvhile G. M. B . s t r a p p e d one of t h e m u p in a pair of his p y j a m a s . At a b o u t tAvo o'clock Ave arrived a t this place, Casapalca, Avhen Ave heard t h a t some of the bridges farther doAvn t h e line h a d been bloAvn u p this morning, so t h a t it Avas impossible to proceed. We h a d m a d e friends with a clergyman of the n a m e of Miles Moss, Avho Avas also going to Lima Avith his friend, a n o t h e r clergyman, Mr. George Perry NeAvman, a n d t h e y Aery kindly u n d e r t o o k to go i n t o t h e toAvn and see Avhat t h e y could find in t h e Avay of board a n d lodging. We remained in t h e train, and in a short time o u r friends came back, a n d Avith t h e m a Mr. GalliA er, Avho OAvns a large copper-smelting factoiw, and he asked us t o come a n d t a k e u p our q u a r t e r s in his house. We very gladly accepted, a n d presently found ourselves Avith all our luggage in a most comfortable and ample house. A sitting-room and •&
CASAPALCA
117
beautifully clean a n d Yvelcoming bedrooms Avere m a d e ready for our partA' We m a y be here for one day or six Aveeks. W e c a n n o t possibly tell until Ave hear Avhat is going on a n d to AA'hat extent t h e bridges are broken up, a n d if it is possible to mule into L i m a . MeanAvhile Ave are in luck in having hit on this paradise,
MR. GALLIVER S HOUSE, CASAPALCA
amongst English people, instead perhaps of being s t r a n d e d a t a small dirty h u t farther u p t h e mountains a n d a m o n g s t those b r u t a l revolutionaries. W e d o n ' t knoAv at all Avhat is going t o h a p p e n t o us, b u t after t h e sickening incident a t Galera, Ave are Aery glad t o get into comfortable beds and feel secure a n d safe. I t is horrible to think of those poor half-drunken boys being knocked a b o u t as theY' Avere to-dav
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MANAOS TO LIMA
May 3 : We Avoke u p this m o r n i n g still m u c h in t h e d a r k as t o w h a t Avas h a p p e n i n g . TAVO d r u n k e n a n d disreputable-looking c o m m a n d a n t e s in charge of seven soldiers Avere supposed t o be holding the town, a n d a h u n d r e d or so more revolutionary soldiers Avere some ten miles doAvn t h e line in Avait for t h e expected GoAernment t r o o p s . T h e y Avere going t o fire on t h e m from behind t h e rocks as they passed. HoAveAer, t h e d r u n k e n c o m m a n d a n t e s and their seven soldiers, having gone doAvn t h e line on an engine t o reconnoitre, m e t three horsemen quite harmlessly coming u p t o Casapalca t o find out Avhat Avas afoot. The c o m m a n d a n t e s , imagining t h e three horsemen Avere t h e beginning of the G o v e r n m e n t force, t u r n e d tail in their engine and fled u p toAA'ards Oroya. W e heard later in t h e day t h a t some loyal persons, eager t o help t h e Government, h a d pulled u p part of t h e line above here, t h u s c u t t i n g t h e connection betAveen Oroya a n d this place. Colonel B e r m u d e z is said t o be c a p t u r i n g Cerro d e Pasco, b u t Ave also heard t h a t an Irish enginedriver h a d cut himself off from t h e rest of t h e train in Avhich Colonel B e r m u d e z a n d his folloAvers Avere seated, a n d hastened off t o Cerro de Pasco to Yvarn t h e officials t h e r e . H e m u s t be a good m a n , this Irish engine-driver ! Mr. GalliYer is quite prepared t o defend this place if a n y of t h e revolutionai'Y' troops shoYv signs of looting or of m a k i n g themselves disagreeable. A b o u t six o'clock t h e h u n d r e d men from beloYV could CY'idently s t a n d it no longer, or t h e y m a y have really caught sight of t h e G o v e r n m e n t troops.
CASAPALCA 119 AnyhoYv they came up in a train, remained here for a couple of hours, and then Avent up as far as they could on the Avay to Oroya, haYing previously looted the proY'isions from some Chinese shops : thcY' also sent up an empty train in front of them, in case the
CASAPALCA STATION DURING THE REVOLUTION
line had been tampered with by loyalists ! So at last Yve were rid of them. Presently at about ten o'clock another train came from beloAv Yvith four revolutionaries, Avho told Mr. Galliver that the Government troops Yvere coming up to Casapalca and Avould be Avith us at about midnight, and meanAvhile would Mr. Galliver hide them ? Mr. Galliver refused.
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MANAOS TO LIMA
AVe h a d a splendid concert Yvith t h e mining men here this evening. Many of t h e m sang a n d danced. May 4 : No sign of t h e G o v e r n m e n t troops or train from L i m a . W e t h i n k t h a t p r o b a b l y t h e bridges are broken a n d will t a k e some t i m e t o m e n d . L a t e r in t h e morning eight revolutionaries came doAvn by train from Oroya, a n d Ave Avere informed t h a t Cerro de Pasco Avas to be t a k e n t o - d a y . In t h e afternoon these eight revolutionaries went doAvn t h e line t o San Matteo (beloAv t h e bridges said t o be bloAvn up), b u t could see nothing, and went straight u p again t o Oroya. W e are in r a t h e r an anxious state, as every one here says t h a t t h e nonappearance of t h e G o v e r n m e n t troops means graY'e trouble in Lima, a n d t h a t t h e authorities there p r o b a b l y c a n n o t spare any soldiers. D r . H o r t o n , t h e ReY' Miles Moss, a n d Mr. NeAvm a n Avent doAvn Mr. Galliver's mine t o - d a y They came back interested, b u t d i r t y May 5 : There Yvas no neYvs this morning, so G. M. B . , Mr. Moss, a n d I Yvent for a Yvalk u p one of t h e m o u n t a i n s . I found walking uphill t r y i n g a t first, b u t it soon became easier. We came t o a superb Y'ieYV of a rocky a n d snoYv-coYered m o u n t a i n ; all a r o u n d us t h e scene Yvas Yvild and gigantic. On our Avay u p a Mr. H a n s e n , a D a n e , overtook us on horseback, a n d asked us to look oY'er his mine and also t o stay t o lunch, as Yve Yvere Yvithin only tAventy minutes of his house. AVe accepted very readily, and telephoned doAvn t o Casapalca t o say Avhere Ave Avere staying.
CASAPALCA
121
Mr. H a n s e n h a d a most comfortable and clean house, a n d gave us a Avonderful feast. After lunch AVC Avent doAvn t h e mine, descending 300 ft. in a lift. I t Avas a most bogey sensation, going doAvn, doAvn t h r o u g h t h e rocky sides of t h e mountain, Yvith only our little oil-lamps t o light us. W e found men Avorking at a large vein of silver, picking it out, or r a t h e r m a k i n g preparations to blast it out. W e picked u p m a n y specimens from the ground—silver, q u a r t z , lead a n d sulphur. We came doYvn t h e m o u n t a i n in one of t h e trollies used for bringing doYvn t h e m e t a l . F a r doYvn beloYV us Yve saYv some boys d m i n g u p four mules. Mr. H a n s e n immediately said : " T h a t means trouble, it means t h a t t h e reYolutionaries are t a k i n g our mules."" And sure enough Yvhen Yve stopped a n d asked t h e boys driving t h e mules, they told us t h a t a h u n d r e d or more reYolutionaries Yvere in Casapalca, a n d h a d already t a k e n a b o u t a dozen mules, a m o n g s t t h e m four of Mr. Galliver's. We presently saYv t h e h u n d r e d men beloYV us in Casapalca station, a n d soon learned t h a t D u r a n d , t h e real leader of this revolution, h a d arrived from Oroya Avith these troops in t h e morning, soon after Ave h a d s t a r t e d on our Avalk. We did not feel a t all h a p p y a t t h e sight of these armed men Avith their r e p u t a t i o n for looting. We learned t h a t D u r a n d h a d been doAvn t h e line, h a d been fired a t by t h e G o v e r n m e n t troops, a n d h a d h a d t o rapidly retreat on his engine. LeaA'ing his troops u p here, he again Avent doYvn t h e line t o ascertain hoAv m a n y of t h e GoYernment troops Yvere really t h e r e . We all Yvaited i m p a t i e n t l y
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MANAOS TO LIMA
for his return, as Ave kneYv t h a t if he found only a small force t h e y m i g h t fight here, a n d already nearly all t h e women a n d children h a d come u p to Mr Galliver for protection, a n d YA'ere settled in the smelting-Avorks. HoYvever. D u r a n d came b a c k in a b o u t a n hour's time, a n d s t a t e d t h a t only eight miles doYvn t h e line t h e r e Avas a considerable force of soldiers, caYalrv a n d infantry. H e therefore p r e p a r e d t o r e t u r n to Oroya Avith his h u n d r e d men, Avhom he packed into t h e t r a i n . H e Yvas also t a k i n g a large truck-load of mules. The rails Yvere Yvet a n d slippery from a slight fall of snoYV in t h e early morning, a n d this, combined Avith t h e heaYy load, m a d e it almost impossible for t h e engine to s t a r t . D u r a n d became Yvild Yvith t e m p e r a n d fear t h a t t h e Government troops Yvould come u p o n him, a n d t h r e a t e n e d first of all t h e station-master a n d t h e n t h e engine-driY'er. Mr. Gallfver stood b y t h e station-master, a n d said he Yvould shoot D u r a n d if he touched h i m . At last t h e engine-driY'er got a n o t h e r engine, Yvhich Avas more successful, a n d m u c h t o our satisfaction the heaY'y load s t a r t e d SIOAVIV on its Avay t o Oroya. Before starting D u r a n d let loose t w o e m p t y carriages to tear u p t h e rails a n d do a n y damage t h e y could. Still no neAvs of t h e G o v e r n m e n t troops. May 6 : This morning, Avhilst Ave Avere dressing, G. M. B . h a p p e n e d t o look out of t h e AvindoAV, and t h e r e Avere some sixtA' caYaliY' m a k i n g their YvaYr along t h e m o u n t a i n p a t h , upYvards p a s t our house. The G o v e r n m e n t troops h a d a t last arriY'ed, and
CASAPALCA TO LIMA
123
w h e n Ave Avent doAvn t o t h e station. Ave found two trains full of infantry a n d a b o u t one h u n d r e d and fifty caYalry. Colonel A h a r e z Yvas in charge, also C o m m a n d a n t e s Castor a n d Puccio. The men a n d horses looked so fit a n d AVCII, it m a d e us Y'ery h a p p y to look upon t h e m a n d to
THE GOVERNMENT CAVALRY REACH CASAPALCA
c o m p a r e t h e m t o t h e disreputable-looking ICYOlutionists. The neYvs from Lima is Y'ery good ; there has been no disturbance, only great excitement as to our reAolution. The line h a d been so damaged t h a t t h e G o v e r n m e n t troops h a d been obliged to come u p Y'ery slowly. They h a d actually started on S a t u r d a y , three hours after D u r a n d had left Lima a n d h a d t a k e n four days. The rest of t h e caY'ahw soon folloAved t h e sixty
124
MANAOS TO LIMA
men Yve had seen early in t h e morning, a n d also two carriages full of infantry, n u m b e r i n g a b o u t one hundred a n d ten men in all. At a b o u t tYvelve o'clock one of t h e trains came back ; t h e soldiers h a d h a d a brush Yvith t h e enemy, h a d t a k e n tAvo prisoners, a n d Avere still fighting. We Avere told t h a t Ave m i g h t haY'e a train to go to Lima a t tYvo o'clock. I t h i n k t h e y Yvere anxious t o get us out of t h e Avay So, after saying good-bye to our kind friends a t Casapalca, a n d especially t h a n k i n g Mr. Galliver for his kindness a n d protection, we s t a r t e d off a t 2.30. An e m p t y t r a i n r a n about ten minutes in front all t h e Yvay, in case t h e line h a d been t a m p e r e d Yvith, or retained a n y remains of d y n a m i t e . We h a d a v e r y uncomfortable and dirty carriage, Yvhich Yvas t u r n e d from second class to first class for t h e occasion, t h e second-class traYellers sitting in t h e v a n a m o n g s t t h e luggage. The m o u n t a i n s all t h e Yvay doYvn Yvere gigantic a n d Y'ery rugged, a n d in some places one's heart Avas in one's m o u t h as t h e t r a i n passed over the narroAv bridges across great raY'ines Yvith t h e Yvater dashing on t h e rocks beloYV. Once Yve passed betAveen tAvo great Avails of rock, nearly 2000 ft. high, absolutely sheer, a n d Yvith no sign of vegetation. As Yve Yvound t h r o u g h t h e loYver land, the ground Yvas covered Avith great bunches of Michaelmas daisies, heliotrope a n d canazensis. Later on Ave came across t h e famous I n c a terraces, most of t h e m noAv unused, t h o u g h eYery noAv a n d t h e n one saYv t h e little square s h e h e s of green corn rising u p t h e m o u n t a i n sides. At Matucana, one of t h e heroic engine-drivers,
CASAPALCA TO LIMA
125
P e t e r Leary, an American, got into our train, and Avas i m m e d i a t e l y surrounded b y persons anxious t o h e a r his stoiw H e told us hoAv he h a d been compelled to d m e t h e engine by t h e reYolutionaries ; he had said he
GENERAL ALVAREZ AND HIS STAFF
m u s t Avater his engine, and h a d given t h e m t h e slip by unhooking it from t h e carriage. When he h a d arrived some Avay doAvn t h e line on his Yvay to Cerro de Pasco, he was told t h a t a train carrying revolutionaries Yvas on its way from Cerro de Pasco, so he decided t o leave his engine ; he
126
MANAOS T O L I M A
disabled her, and came over t h e m o u n t a i n s toAvards Lima. The other engine-driver, H a r r y Wall, an oldish m a n of sixty, after unhooking his engine, succeeded in reaching Cerro de Pasco a n d Avarning t h e inh a b i t a n t s of t h e revolutionists' intention t o c a p t u r e it. H e has been giYen £500 b y t h e P e r m i a n G o v e r n m e n t for his daring deed. We reached L i m a a t 8.30. CroYvds of people Avere Avaiting for t h e arriYal of this train, b u t they Avere Yrery orderly a n d Yve soon arrived at t h e Grand Hotel Maury, Yvhere Yve YA'ere met by Mr. Buddie, of L o c k e t t a n d Company, a n d given our English mail. All Avell a t home, a n d D a n splendid by all accounts. Lima: May 7: I spent a Y'ery quiet morning ansYvering some family letters. G. M. B . Yvent out to see Mr. Buddie of L o c k e t t ' s . In t h e afternoon Mr. Moss, Dr. H o r t o n , a n d I searched L i m a for a suitable s i h e r table - centre o r n a m e n t for Mr. Galliver's b o y s . W e YA'ere not very successful, as all t h e table-centres here are of German design a n d r a t h e r ugly The day has been brilliant, h o t sun all t h e time, b u t t h e air Yvonderfully fresh. Mr. Moss saY's t h a t Ave m u s t not expect such pleasant conditions if Ave stay here t w o or three Aveeks. A p p a r e n t l y from t h e end of May till September t h e days are Y'ery gloomy and muggy. This afternoon G. M. B . a n d Mr. Tregoning m e t Mr. Leguia a t Messrs. L o c k e t t ' s . H e Yvas disgusted a t t h e Galera episode, a n d much interested in all
LIMA 127 G. M. B. had to tell him of what we had seen. The Government troops routed the enemy yesterday above Casapalca, and Colonel Bermudez was shot. This is all excellent neAvs. May 8 : G. M. B. had a long business talk Avith Mr. Leguia this afternoon, and many plans YA'ere
:
L. 'A •• El i""*
GROUP OUTSIDE MR. GALLIVER S HOUSE AT CASAPALCA
Dr. Horton, Mr. ('.. Perrv Newman. Caesar, Mi-. Tregoning, G. M. B., Rev. Miles Moss, M. B.
discussed for arranging the Iquitos Muelle dilemma Avith the Government here. Dr. Horton and Mr. Tregoning dined Avith Mr. Houghton, and G. M. B. and I Yvere joined in our quiet dinner at this hotel by the Reverend Miles Moss. We afterAvards Avent round to Mr. Moss' rooms in the Dependence of this hotel. Mr. Moss is a most attractive and talented man. He plays
128
MANAOS T O LIMA
t h e piano very Avell indeed, sings delightfully, and p a i n t s pleasant pictures. H e is a keen naturalist, a n d has a good collection of m o t h s . L a t e r in t h e evening Mr. Christison came in. H e is t h e Secretary of t h e British Legation, a n d told us m a n y amusing stories of t h e incompetency of t h e natiY-e gendarmes here. On board the "• Guatemala " ; May 9 : We lunched Yvith Mr. H o u g h t o n a n d Mr. Buddie a t t h e National Club. G. M. B . suddenly saYv Mr. Lembke, and m a d e a dash at him to get him t o justify his cond u c t a b o u t our expected mules a t P u e r t a Jessupi. Mr. L e m b k e told us he Yvas u n a v o i d a b l y detained in London, a n d gave t h e commission t o a friend, who proY^ed untrustAvorthy. This afternoon, a b o u t four o'clock, Ave took the t r a m to Callao a n d there embarked, in company Yvith Messrs. H o u g h t o n a n d Buddie, on t h e Guatemala, a b o a t belonging t o t h e Pacific S t e a m Navigation Company She does t h e passenger trade betAveen P a n a m a and Valparaiso. W e are t o spend t h e night on her, a n d arriYe to-morroAv morning at Cerro Azul, Avhere Lockett a n d Company haY'e a large sugar estate a n d factory On board Yve m e t Mr. Edgar, a gentleman Yvho says he is a cousin of Sir R o b e r t H a r t , a n d looks eY'ery inch of him a C h i n a m a n . H e knoYvs E d g a r Schwabe and Mr. S u t t o n . R a t h e r a roily sea. Cerro Azul: May 10 : This morning a t 7 o'clock Ave arriAed opposite Cerro Azul, ninety miles doAvn t h e coast from Lima. After a breakfast of coffee
CERRO AZUL
120
a n d toast, Ave Avere told to get ready to go ashore. A large tub-like b o a t Avas provided for this, in Avhich YVC a n d our luggage a n d several other passengers Yvere placed. A h e a v y sea Avas running, a n d almost before Ave h a d s t a r t e d a small Chinese boy h a d succ u m b e d t o sea-sickness a t t h e b o t t o m of t h e boat. A stout lady a n d her little boy soon folloAAred suit, a n d as there Avere no arrangem e n t s m a d e for seasickness, it Avas Aery disgusting, a n d I h a d much difficulty in keeping Avell. As Ave sat in t h e boat, it seemed impossible t h a t Ave could land t h r o u g h t h e enorGOING ASHORE AT CERRO AZUL mous breakers, b u t somehoAv or other marAellous m a n a g e m e n t brought us in safety t o t h e beach, Avhere Ave AVCIC carried ashore by strong natiYes. H e r e Yve m o u n t e d a diminutiYe car set on lines a n d draYvn by a mule. We soon found ourselves in a kind of desert, almost E g y p t i a n in appearance. N o t h i n g b u t sand a r o u n d us. Presently YVC came i n t o a large t r a c t of c o u n t r y covered Avith sugarI
130 MANAOS TO LIMA cane, and eY'ery here and there a cotton-field. We mounted horses and rode through the green canefields, and up a high sand-hill, Avhere Yve had a splendid vieAv of acres and acres of green cultivated land Avith the Pacific Ocean beyond, and behind us the endless bare hills rising higher and higher to the Andes. The daY' Avas sunm\ but rather misty,
RIDING THROUGH THE CERRO AZUL SUGAR ESTATE OF MESSRS. \V. AND J. LOCKETT
and the colouring, reputed to be Y'ery fine, Yvas disappointing. At 5.30 Ave started back to catch our boat to Lima. Again Ave Avent through the surf and YvaY'es ; this time in a smaller boat than that in Yvhich Ave landed. Our steamer, belonging to a Chilian company, Yvas Y'ery high in the Yvater and rolled a good deal as the large Pacific Yvaves heaved beneath her. We had some difficulty in getting on to the ladder from our small boat, and had to seize our
LIMA
131 opportunity Avhilst Ave Avere high on the top of a Yvave. I Yvas caught by a Avave Avhen on the steps, and had my feet and ski it drenched. Obliged to give up dinner to-night ! TAVO biscuits and a glass of champagne !
STREET IN LIMA SHOWING OLD CARVED-WOOD
BALCONIES
Lima: May 1 1 : We called on Mr. and Mrs. NeAvman at the Seamen's Institute, Callao, directly Ave landed this morning. Mrs. NeAvman gaY'e us some Chinese iYory ornaments. I spent a quiet morning. G. M. B. has done a good deal of business since Ave arrived at Lima early this morning. He and Mr. Tregoning called on President Pardo this afternoon, and found him a pleasant, shreAvd man.
132
MANAOS TO LIMA
They talked no business with him ; G. M. B. said he seemed tired and looked hard-worked. We Avere afterwards taken by Mr. Buddie to see an old Spanish house, one of the oldest in Lima, dating from Pizarro's time. The balconies and ceilings are all made of fine old carved wood. We Avere not allowed to go inside, as the proprietors Avere at home. I believe they h a \ e some Y'aluable old Spanish pictures. May 12 : G. M. B. and Mr. Tregoning worked hard at their Iquitos Concession document. In the afternoon I tried some music through Yvith Mr. Moss. Mrs. Christison, whom I haY'e not yet seen, lent me her Y'iolin. We dined Yvith Mr. Houghton in his large and handsome house near the Exposicion. May 13 : Very quiet morning. G. M. B . and Mr. Tregoning have had another long talk Avith Mr. Leguia. Avho offers them the management of Callao Harbour, now in the hands of some French Company. In fact, he offers the management of all the harbours on the Peruvian coast. G. M. B. rather thinks not, but he is going Avith Mr. Tregoning to haY'e a look at Callao Harbour. I have tea Avith Mr. and Mrs. Christison, and meet Mr. Jerome, grand-nepheAv of Napoleon (?), and also a Mr. Powell. Mrs. Christison is a Y'ery gentle, delicate-looking lady. Mr. James Buddie giY'es us a splendid dinnerparty at the Club. Mr. and Mrs. Bright, Mr. and Mrs. Marshall, Mr. Charles Watson and Mr. Neill. the American Consul, are the party. We play
LIMA 133 bridge after dinner, and presently M. Saresti, Yvhom Yve met Yvith Mr. Solare at Tarma, comes up and speaks to us. He has been in the revolution, and is extremely annoyed at the Government taking aAvay Mr. Solare s prefectship. He says Mr. Solare
ENTRANCE TO THE TORRE TAGLI PALACE, LIMA
did his best, but Avas rather late in getting out his troops. May 14 : Grand evening concert at the Seamen's Institute, Callao. Mr. and Mrs. NeAvman Avere both splendid. Mr. NeAvman sang some wonderfully composed verses relating our revolution experiences at Casapalca, to the tune of " Killaloo." Mrs. NeAvman Avas a master-Avoman with the men Yvhen they attempted to get roAvdy. She only had
134
MANAOS TO LIMA
t o go a n d sit a m o n g s t t h e m , a n d t h e y soon became meek as l a m b s . I played t h e violin, Major Christison sang several good comic songs, Mr. Miles Moss sang a n d recited, a n d a Mrs. Davies sang a Spanish song most charmingly. I t Yvas great fun, a n d t h e men seemed t o enjoy it thoroughly. May 15 : We h a d our g r a n d presentation of a silver centre-piece to Mr. Sturrock of B a c k u s and J o h n s t o n ' s mines a t Casapalca. Mr. a n d Mrs. NeAvman came to lunch. I t h i n k every one Yvas pleased Avith t h e o r n a m e n t . I t is handsome, though r a t h e r too German. Mr. Solare came in t o tea a n d poured out his woes a n d injustices. The President, as far as Yve can see in these dimly lit political m a t t e r s , has behaYed Y'ery badly to him, blaming h i m for not doing impossible things during t h e reYolution. The Prefecture has been t a k e n from him, a n d he says t h a t for h i m political life is over. H e Yvould like to live a t r a n q u i l life Yvith his family But Yvhere is t h e money ? Musical CY-ening in Mr. Moss' neYv rooms. H e a p s of t a l e n t . May 16 : G. M. B . a n d Mr. Tregoning Yvent off t o Callao, a n d stayed there t h e AA'hole of t h e afternoon. They Avere badly impressed b y t h e Avay everything Avas m a n a g e d there. I t Avas so slovenly, a n d no one seemed t o knoAv his Avork. T h e Doctor a n d I took a Avalk u p M o u n t Christobel, a hill a b o u t 1000 ft. high, a mile or tAvo out of
LIMA 135 Lima. We had a splendid vieYv of Lima and the country around. It is curious to see the green fields, Avith cows grazing, close to the river Ramac, and then to see
COURTYARD OF THE TORRE TAGLI PALACE, LIMA
the sandy hills, quite barren of any Acgctation, rising up on all sides. In the evening Mr. Buddie and Mr. Houghton dined Avith us. Mr. Buddie Avas extraordinarily interesting in his accounts of the Chilians and the
136
MANAOS T O L I M A
difference of character betAveen t h e Chilians a n d Peruvians. H e says t h e Chilians are a fighting race, Avitty a n d bright, a great c o n t r a s t t o t h e P e r m i a n s . H e also told us a wonderfully exciting story of how he r a n along t h e streets of L i m a whilst fighting was going on. H e is a gentleman of great courage a n d grit. May 17 : We Avent t o church in Mr. Moss' AngloAmerican building. According t o t h e laAvs of Lima, a P r o t e s t a n t place of Avorship is n o t alloAved, so t h a t this church looks like an ordinary dAvellinghouse from outside, although it is quite an imposing church inside, a n d Mr. Moss has t r a i n e d t h e choir of ladies a n d gentlemen of L i m a in a splendid way. Mr. Charlie W a t s o n took us all for a ride this afternoon. W e h a d good horses, b u t I Yvas hardly dressed for serious riding, a n d m y fingers Yvere all in holes b y t h e time I came back ; a n d Mr. Tregoning's fame as a horseman h a \ i n g gone before him, he Yvas provided Avith a very Avild a n d young Chilian horse, Avho gaY'e h i m quite a strenuous hour a n d a half. We were shown t h e polo ground, t h e cricket ground a n d t h e race-course of Lima, a n d afterYvards rode to a place called Magdelena on t h e sea coast. Very p r e t t y indeed. Our u n t i d y caYalcade finished u p b y riding doYvn t h e Church P a r a d e of Lima, a n d I a m afraid t h a t m y h a t flopping over m y nose, a n d m y skirt hardly k e p t beloAv m y knees, m u s t h a v e r a t h e r disgraced our kind Mr. W a t s o n .
LIMA
137
May 18 : Mrs. Clay called for me a t 10 A.M., a n d Yve Yvandered r o u n d t h e toYvn in search of precious t h i n g s in t h e paYvnbrokers' shops. E v e r y t h i n g AAas such an e x o r b i t a n t price a n d really n o t v e r y beautiful t h a t I AA-as not t e m p t e d at all. One pair of a n c i e n t Spanish stirrups Avas priced a t £10. I n t h e afternoon AVC saAv a collection of pictures belonging t o t h e Torre Tagli family. There were 860 in t h r e e or four small rooms, a n d it Avas impossible t o see AAiiat Avas good a n d Avhat Avas b a d . They Avere also in Y'ery b a d condition. We m e t Mr. Leguia a t a dinner-party to-night. H e is quite a m a n out of t h e ordinary—very Yviiw, h a r d working, a n d impressed me as having great courage. May 19 : W e Yvent round t o see Mr. Leguia's racing stables this afternoon. The YA'hole establishm e n t is a d m i r a b l y run, a n d seYcral splendid animals Yvere b r o u g h t out a n d Yvalked round for our inspection. Mr. Leguia is CY'idently keen, a n d has freq u e n t l y Yvon t h e L i m a D e r b y . I n t h e evening Yve dined Yvith Mr. a n d Mrs. DaY'ies, a n d m e t t h e musical set of L i m a (Mr. a n d Mrs. Christison, Mr. Moss). W e h a d music after dinner, a n d Mrs. DaY'ies sang her Spanish song again to us. I t Yvas very delightful. We d i d n ' t get home till 1 A.M.
May 20 : Splendid mail came in unexpectedly t h i s m o r n i n g . L e t t e r s from every one, a n d everyt h i n g going splendidly. All t h e letters tell beautifully of D a n a n d his doings. H e is evidently
138
AN AMAZON-ANDES TOUR
vigorous and splendidly alive. It makes me long to get home at once. G. M. B. and Mr. Tregoning came home tired and late this evening, after a long talk Yvith Mr. Leguia. On board SS. "Mexico" : May 2 1 : On at last! We started at five o'clock after many good-byes. Mr. NeAvman took us on board in his small " Seamen's Mission ' craft. It Avas by faith alone that Ave safely landed on the ladder of the Mexico ; neither Mr NeAvman nor his boy knoAving much about handling a boat. May 22 : This morning Ave found ourselves sailing Yvithin a feYv miles of the wild desolate coast. We saAv several peaks of snoAv, but most of the Sierra is lost in AAiiite mist. G. M. B. likened it to the Land of the Moon, and it does seem the same kind of dreary barren country one Avould expect up there. And the Avhite cloudy sunless atmosphere Ave had to-day enhanced the effect. We arrived at Salaverry, the port for Trujillo, at about 2 P.M. This too is a sandy and barrenlooking place, Yvith no sign of vegetation, although they say there are great sugar-cane plantations a few miles inland, and Trujillo, YA'hich is about fifteen miles up the Aalley, has YAronderful gardens. We have spent the Avhole afternoon and evening receiving sacks of sugar. It is Y'ery chilly, and YVC are glad to sit and Yvrite in the " salon." May 23 : At 6 P.M. Yve arrived at Pacasmayo, a very dreary spot. The mountains here are a good deal farther from the sea, and sandy hills reigned
LIMA TO PANAMA
139
s u p r e m e in our vieAv of t h e cloudy coast. We stayed a couple of hours a t P a c a s m a y o . a n d t h e n proceeded t o E t e n , Yvhere AVC said good-bye t o our faithful c o m p a n i o n of t h e Pichis HighAvay, Caesar. H e HYCS a feAv miles inland a t a village called Chiclayo. a n d says he Yvishes t o become a " m a q u i n i s t a . " a n d does n o t Avish to go into sen-ice any more. We YA'ere glad to get some sun to-day although it Avas still Y'ery chilly A good game of shuffleboard croquet m a d e us feel a little Yvarmer and more fit. May 24 : W e a r m e d at P a y t a at 6 A.M. I t Yvas a decent-looking place, as far as one could see from t h e b o a t . We remained here till tAvo o'clock, t h e chief a m u s e m e n t of t h e m o r n i n g being t h e buying of p a n a m a hats, of Avhich G. M. B . bought four, a n d Dr. H o r t o n a n d Mr. Tregoning each one. H e a p s of cotton is groYvn a t P a y t a . and a n o t h e r t h i r t y miles or so u p t h e coast YVC saAv a place Avhere t h e r e are m a n y kerosene Avells. The c o u n t r y looks most unlikely for producing such treasures. May 25 : E a r l y this morning Ave reached t h e m o u t h of t h e riAer Guayaquil, and alter w a i t i n g for t h e tide to t u r n , proceeded u p t h e m e r for t h r e e hours a n d arrived at t h e small toAvn of Guayaquil. We Avere not alloAved to land, owing to plague. T h e c o u n t r y all round here reminds one VCIA' much of t h e Amazon valley, a n d t h e climate is evidently similar. TheA' say t h e m o u n t a i n s round are magnificent, b u t t h e clouds Avere so IOAV t h a t AVC could
140
AN AMAZON-ANDES TOUR
see nothing, until suddenly from out of a great bank of clouds appeared the snoYvy peak of Chimborazo. It Yvas a Yvonderful sight in its loveliness, seeming to float in mid-air between the clouds. Our old friends, the mosquitoes, have paid us a visit this evening. May 26 : We are anchored opposite to the slaughter-house, and the vultures, AA'aiting for the offal to be throAvn to them, are disgusting to see. At three o'clock Ave start doAvn the river. The scenery is flat, and in some places quite park-like, Yvith meadow land, cows grazing, and large groups of trees here and there. The mountains are hidden all the time, in the clouds. We are back on the open sea just as it is getting very dark. May 27 and 28 : TYVO uneventful days of sailing in mid-Pacific with no vieYvs of land. The sea has been a little too rough for me, and I haY'e had to be very quiet, whilst G. M. B. read to me " Dr. Thorne." We expect to reach Panama to-morroYv. May 29 : Arrived at Panama at 12 A.M., but not alloYved off the boat until Ave have been looked at by the doctor, Avho did not arrive till 4 P.M., so it is too late to land at the Bocca and catch the train to Panama. We are therefore spending another night on the Mexico. Panama : May 30 : The launch again arrived too late for all the passengers and their luggage to get off, but Ave managed to jump on whilst the
P A N A M A : JAMAICA
141
launch Yvas s e p a r a t i n g from t h e ship a n d go ashore w i t h t h e C a p t a i n alone. H e was not well pleased. W e w e n t u p t o t h e H o t e l Tivoli, Avhich AVC find m o s t comfortable a n d very American. May 31 : This m o r n i n g Yve Yvere t a k e n by a Mr. J a c k s o n S m i t h t o see t h e Culebra cut of t h e future I s t h m i a n Canal. They are Avorking at it hard, a n d hope t o h a v e it finished by 1015. G. M. B . has m a d e a b e t t h a t in four years they YY ill have a b a n d o n e d t h e lock idea in favour of a sea t o sea canal, a n d also t h a t they YY ill a b a n d o n t h e idea of constructing t h e canal by a d m i n i s t r a t i o n . June 1 : Dr. H o r t o n Avent early this morning t o catch a fast b o a t t o NCAV York. June 2 : Caught t h e 10.35 train, a n d arrived 1 P.M. Colon. W e a n d our luggage Yvere safely a b o a r d t h e Magdalena by 3.30, a n d Yve left Colon about six o'clock. June
3 : R a t h e r choppy sea.
Jamaica : June 4 : We arriYred a t J a m a i c a a t I I A.M., a n d t h e doctor came on board to examine us soon after Yve h a d anchored. We haY'e fortyeight h o u r s ' q u a r a n t i n e ! They are very anxious a n d p a r t i c u l a r a b o u t bubonic plague, Avhich has not y e t broken out here. The delay is most annoying for us, as it Avill cut doYvn G. M. B.'s time for business in NeAv York, unless AA'e t a k e a later b o a t to E n g l a n d . T h e island looked very lovely this evening, Avith blue hills, a n d silver clouds in every valley. We Yvere Y'ery anxious t o go on shore a n d explore, b u t
142
AN AMAZON-ANDES TOUR
it is o u t of t h e question till S a t u r d a y , so Yve m u s t c o n t e n t ourselves Yvith quiet p a s t i m e s on b o a r d . This evening t h e ship's doctor organised a small dance, Yvhich G. M. B . a n d I enjoyed v e r y m u c h together. June 5 : We h a v e spent a Y^ery quiet d a y , still in q u a r a n t i n e . Shuffle-board a n d bridge, and plenty of " F a u s t . " June 6 : We s t e a m u p t h e b a y a n d arrive a t t h e Avharf opposite K i n g s t o n a b o u t 9 A.M. G. M. B . is not feeling very AAell, so Yve do n o t go ashore till eleven, Yvhen Yve t a k e a t r a m t o t h e H o t e l Constant Spring and haY'e lunch there. I t is jolly country, a n d more like E n g l a n d t h a n a n y t h i n g Yve haY'e seen since Ave left t h a t blessed spot. Niggers a n d nigger women are busily m a r k e t i n g Avith their donkeys in t h e streets a n d c o u n t r y lanes. The toAvn of K i n g s t o n was almost entirely Aviped out b y t h e terrible e a r t h q u a k e of F e b r u a r y 1907. One t h o u s a n d lives Avere lost. Most of t h e principal streets are still in ruins, m a n y of t h e houses just as t h e y m u s t haAe been after t h e e a r t h q u a k e h a d t a k e n place—all t h e Avails t u m b l i n g doYvn, a n d t h e iromvork b e n t a n d contorted. Of course a good deal of t h e toAvn has been a n d is still being built u p again. The nigger boys haY'e been sAvimming round t h e Magdalena all day long, begging for pennies t o be throYvn to t h e m . I t is Avonderful t o see t h e m diYe. We left Kingston Docks a t 6 o'clock ( P . M . ) and anchored a mile or tAvo aAvay, opposite P o r t Henderson. H e r e Ave shipped several loads of b a n a n a s —
KINGSTON TO N E W Y O R K
143
16,000 b u n c h e s in all. T h e y looked m o s t pict u r e s q u e , in green piles. The loading continued t h r o u g h t h e n i g h t till a b o u t 6 A.M. t h e n e x t morning. June 7 : R a t h e r a choppy sea, a n d an uneventful d a y . G. M. B . r a t h e r upset. J line 8 : At 1 A.M. Ave passed betAveen H a y t i a n d Cuba, a n d during t h e d a y Ave passed t h r o u g h t h e B a h a m a Islands. None of t h e m looked very interesting—IOAV a n d sandy, Avith t h e usual palmtrees a n d prickly pear. The sea has been beautiful a n d calm as a lake. June 9 and 10 : TAVO quiet d a y s . G. M. B . h a s not been Y'ery Yvell, a n d has h a d to go t o bed for a bit. W e feared dysentery, b u t t h e ship's doctor says it is not. t h o u g h he m u s t haY'e eaten some poison. Splendid t h u n d e r a n d lightning last night ( J u n e 10). June
11 : NeYv Y o r k .
June
17 :
June
23 : H o m e .
Lusitania.
APPENDIX NOTES OX U S E F U L E Q U I P M E N T F O R T R A V E L IN T H E AMAZON-ANDES COUNTRY AND SOME SUGGESTIONS AS TO S U P P L I E S OF P R O V I SIONS, Q U A N T I T I E S B E I N G ESTIMATED F O R FOUR PEOPLE (1) Go to the Army and Navy Stores and ask for the Export Department. (2) If possible let no package weigh over 56 lb. Two such packages are an ample load for the bad mules usually available. Very good mules can carry from 150 to 200 lb. (3) Take a small medicine-chest especially stocked for malarial and tropical illnesses. (4) If journeying for the most part under 7000 ft. altitude, light clothes should be taken for the day. Nights are cool. At high altitudes the days are fresh and the nights very cold. (5) Strong boots and gaiters, or preferably field-boots, are essential. The paths are often very muddy, passing through swamps. (6) Tents are unnecessary except for explorers. (7) Water should always be boiled before drinking. To cool Avater boiled for drinking purposes, fill felt-covered Yvater-bottles, soak felt in cold Avater and hang in the breeze. (8) Every case should be fitted for a padlock and key, and a spare padlock or two should be taken. All padlocks should unlock to one key and every member of the party should have a key in his pocket. 14.-,
K
146
APPENDIX
(9) All leather luggage must be either packed in green sack bags or covered by ground-sheets. TYvelve hours' rain will soak through any leather. (10) Rubber-flanged tin boxes (to weigh not more than 56 lb. full) are the best means of carrying good clothes, books, &c.
SPECIMEN CASE
OF PROVISIONS
FOR
FOUR
PEOPLE
FOR
(assuming that stops are only made for one night, giving no time for elaborate cooking). Weight (say) 56 lb. 1 2-lb. tin of Quaker Oats. 1 i-lb. tin of Tea. 4 | - l b . tins of Danish Butter. 2 or 3 i-lb. tins Ideal Milk. 1 i-lb. tin Nestle's Milk. 2 i-lb. tins of J a m or Marmalade. 4 3-oz. tins of Potted Meat. 1 i-lb. tin of P a t n a Rice. 4 tubes Maggi Consomme or 2 tubes Maggi Consomme and 1 tin Pea Flour. 1 2-lb. tin Curried Fowl. 1 2-lb. tin Army and XaYy Rations. 1 2-lb. tin Irish Stew or Haricot Mutton. 1 1^-lb. tin Boston Baked Beans. 1 1-lb. tin Plum Pudding. 1 1-lb. tin Gooseberry or Apple Pudding. 1 4?-lb. tin Prairie Biscuits. 1 1-lb. tin Petit Beurre Biscuits. 1 Bottle Lime Juice. 1 lb. Muscatels or Figs or Elva Plums. Granulated Sugar. 1 packet of Medicated Toilet-paper. N.B.—Sardines and extra Quaker Oats may be taken if travelling in cool temperature, but Sardines should be avoided in the Tropics. TYVO DAY'S
APPENDIN
147
S P E C I M E N CASE OF E X T R A S FOR ABOUT S I X W E E K S .
1 1-lb. tin of Washing Soda. 2 bottles of Brandy. 6 doz. hard candles, size 12. 2 J-lb. tins of Plasmon ArroYvroot. 2 J-lb. tins of Cocoa Essence. 5 2-oz. tins of Coleman s Mustard. 2 2-oz. tins of White Pepper. 6 1-lb. tins of Salt. 12 Sponge- or Swab-cloths. 2 metal Corkscrews. 6 Tin-openers (very strong). 1 tin (2s. size) of Benger's Food. 2 Butter-coolers. 1 Tin Keating s.
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
CAMP AND S I X D R I E S (for each person). Imperial Green X Bed. No. 2 Quilted Hair Mattress. Jaeger Quadruple Sleeping-bag. Feather Pillow. Canvas Indian Holdall. Large Green Sack Bag. Green X Chair. Good Mackintosh and Sling-strap. Bell Mosquito-net. 7 ft. by 4 ft. 6 in. Ground-sheet, heavy quality, with eyelets on each side. F O R GENERAL USE.
Bucket Canteen or Cooking Outfit. Crockery as required. Large Kettle with folding handle and copper bottom. X B a t h and Washstand for every two people. Large X Table for every four people. Spare Green Sack Bags to hold loose common property.
148
APPENDIX
Canvas Bucket for every two people. Well-fitted Canvas Tool-roll. Felt-covered Water-bottle for every two people, to hold about 1 pint. Camp Mirror for every two people. Folding Talc Lantern, for every two people. Wooden Spoons. Plenty of strong Cord. Bath-towels.
Printed by
BALLANTYNE &= Co.
LIMITED
Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London
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