Agamid Lizards: Keeping & Breeding Them in Captivity (Herpetology series)

[ RE-l33 AGAMID LIZARDS

CONTENTS I

Agamids in General .................................. 1

Housing ..... .... .............. .. ... ..... ........ .. .... ..... 9

Nutrition ......... ....... ... .. ...... ............... ........ 23

Species Accounts .... ......................... ...... 29

Suggested Reading ...... .... ............... ....... 64

© 1996 by T.F.H. Publications, Inc. Distributed in the UNITED STATES to the Pet Trade by T.F.H. Publications , Inc., One T.F.H. Plaza, Neptune City, NJ 07753; distributed in the UNITED STATES to the Bookstore and Lib rary Trade by National Book Network, Inc. 4720 Boston Way, Lanham MO 20706; in CANADA to the Pet Trade by H & L Pet Supplies Inc., 27 Ki ngston Crescent, Kitchener, Ontario N2B 2T6; Rolt C. Hagen Inc., 3225 Sartelon St. Laurent-Montreal Quebec H4R 1E8; in CANADA to the Book Trade by VanweIl Publishing Ltd., 1 North rup Crescent, St. Catharines , Ontario L2M 6P5; in ENGLAND by T.F.H. Publications, PO Box 15, Waterlooville P07 68Q; in AUSTRALlA AND THE SOUTH PACIFIC by T.F.H. (Australia), Pty. Ltd., Box 149, Brookvale 2100 N.S.W., Australia; in NEW ZEALAN D by Brooklands Aquarium Ltd. 5 McGiven Drive, New Plymouth, RD1 New Zealand; in Japan by T. F. H. Publication s, Japan-Jiro Tsuda, 10-12-3 Ohjidai, Sakura, Chiba 285, Japan; in SOUTH AFRICA by Lopis (Pty) Ltd., P.O. Box 39127, Booysens, 2016, Johannesburg, South Africa. Published by T.F.H. Publi cations, Inc. MANU FACTURED IN TH E

UNITED STATES OF AME RICA

BY T.F.H. PUBLICATIONS, INC.

___O'I IOS IN GENERAL

GAMIDS IN GENERAL

GENERAL NATURAL HISTORY

The family Agamidae inhabits the Old World exclusively. Agamids are very similar in general form and habits to the iguanids, but agamids and iguanids are found together only in the Fiji and Tonga Islands, and on Madagascar. Agamids generally are tropical and subtropical anünals, but there are some exceptions. Most of the species occur in Australia and the southern parts of Asia, but many also occur in Africa. The bulk of the species seen in the hobby seem to come from Africa, these being of the genera Agama and Uromastyx. In total , there are over 30 genera and over

300 species that have been described, depending on what source you consult, and there probably are many species yet to be described as weIl. A surprising number of agamid species occupy many of the same types of environmental niches as the New World iguanids. For those familiar with iguanids , you know that they take many different forms and occupy many different environments, from desert to woodland to swamp. The same goes for the agamids. The bulk of the agamid species are fairly unspecialized, having only minor differences in their adaptations. Most agamids have large heads, powerful legs , and PH OTO BY KEN LU CAS

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comparatively long tails. They possess well-developed c1aws for digging or c1imbing, as well as a well-formed dentition for eating a wide range of foods. Many species possess attractive dorsal crests and dewlaps. Agamids occur in many color forms, most being relatively somberly colored and patterned. Some have the capability of color change, this usually being determined by body temperature fluctuation. Most rely on their good eyesight for food detection. For the most part, the species of the family Agamidae are egglayers, the exceptions to this being species in the genus Cophotis and some species of

AGAMIDS IN GENERAL

Agamids occur in many parts of the Old World and in many forms. Some have vastly different housing and feeding requirements than others. Having a familiarity with the keeping of water dragons (Physignathus spp.), for instance, does not automatically mean you will be able keep spiny-tails (Uromastyx spp.) as well, at least not without further research. The impulse purchase of a lizard such as an agamid frequently will lead to an improperly cared -for pet. Housing requirements can only be met with some prior preparation on the part of the potential owner. Some agamid species are easier to Phrynocephalus. care for than others, some grow larger, and some are more ACQUIRING SPECIMENS aggressive. It is up to you to One thing you'll notice in your research these animals and quest for agamids is that you determine which one is best for usually have to look beyond the you. average pet shop in order to find Once you have an agamid lizard any but the most common in your possession, it is up to you species. Pet shop owners usually to give it the best care possible. are wary of any animai that may The first step is to have the not sell well or may be unfamiliar animaI checked over by a to tbem. The information veterinarian. While it is true that concerning agamids that is a visit to a vet is not cheap, it is available to both the pet store still better tban ending up with a owner and the average hobbyist is dead lizard that you paid good sparse at best. Therefore, it is up money for. Remember, catching a to the keeper to learn where to health problem in a herp is best obtain his or her specimens. Even done as early as possible. if a pet store isn't carrying the Many agamid lizards seen for species you're interested in, you sale are wild-caught specimens. can always ask tbem to try This means they may be ordering it. harboring some parasites . In When purchasing a specimen, it nature, a healthy lizard can deal is wise to research tbe animaI with a population of internal beforeband. Knowledge of one parasites without too much species of agamid does not apply trouble. Under the stress of equally to all other agamids. captivity,however, that same

AGAMIDS IN GEN ER AL

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When shopping around for specimens , loo k forthose that are plump (i .e. , appearwell fed ) and alert. Also watch for signs of parasitic infestation , cuts , bruises, and burns. This Iniand Bearded Dragon , Pogona vitticeps, for example , appears to be in good shape .

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AGAMIDS IN GENERAL PHOTO OF AN AGAMA SP. BY W . P. MARA

lizard will have a harder time coping with such a problem due to the tremendous amount of stress put on the animaI from initial capture, transport, placement in holding facilities (in which animals often are kept in overpopulated conditions until they are shipped off to retailers), display in the pet shop, and finally the trip home. Under such circumstances, any animaI could be susceptible to stress-related maladies. HEALTH PROBLEMS Both the novice and the expert herp keeper should have a basic knowledge of reptile diseases . Because of the fact that reptiles can hide disease until they are too far gone to treat, it is vital to have a \vorking understanding of

spotting, identifying, and (possibly) treating such diseases. Some of the more common diseases can be effectively treated in your own home. Others will require veterinary assistance. You will find that most agamid species are very resistant to disease as long as their basic needs are faithfully provided. However, some specimens invariably will come down with one ailment or another, and it is at such a time that a working knowledge of disease treatment comes in handy. Here are the most common ailments known to strike agamids, and their treatment. Parasites: There are two types-ectoparasites (external) and endoparasites (internal). The most common ectoparasites are

AGAMIDS IN GENERAL

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mites and ticks (which actually are just giant mites) , and both are easily treatable. There are two ways to do this. With the first, a small piece of insecticide strip (about one inch square) is hung near (within a foot or so) the enclosure containing the infested lizards and left there until alI the offending parasites are dead (usually about a week). Make sure you remove the animals' waterbowl during this time because vapors from the insecticide strip will taint the water, rendering it toxic. Give the lizards a drink of water one time during each day, then remove the water again. This method is more effective on mites than ticks; ticks

are best removed with the help of a dab of alcohol and a pair of tweezers. With the second method, which is considerably milder and usually works better with mites rather than ticks , the lizards are soaked in several inches of warm water, which will drown many of the offending parasites. The obviously problem here is that many agamid specimens may not want to sit in a bowl of warm water for hours at a time. In either case, you should bypass both methods and consult a vet if you have a mite or tick problem that has really gotten out of hand. Endoparasites can, given the right conditions , be more difficul

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to deal with than ectoparasites. Common examples inc1ude tapeworms and roundworms. Accurate identification is irnpossible without the assistance of a veterinarian, but the warning signs can be obvious-Iack of appetite, sluggishness, sunken eyes, lack of muscle-tone, and watery waste matter. Treatment should be sought by a professional immediately after a problem is suspected. Nutritional Problems: These shouldn't be a concern for the keeper who pays elose attention to his or her pets' diets. Improper nutrition can lead to deficiencies of various vitamins and minerals. Vitamin A and vitamin D3 deficiencies are common in herptiles (symptoms of which include soft bones, loose teeth, nasal discharge, puffy eyes, shedding problems, etc.), and only a vet should deal with such problems. Miscellaneous: Other ailments suffered by captive agamids include burns (often from lighting apparatus or hot rocks), bone fractures, and skin problems such as shedding difficulties, lacerations, and burns. Shedding problems usually are not serious and can be helped along with either alittie daily misting in the terrarium or the provision of a bathing area (to loosen dried skin patches). AlI other problems listed above can be quite serious and should be discussed with a vet. BREEDING AGAMIDS Only a short account on the breeding of agamids is presented

AGAMIDS IN GENERAL

at this point because there are a large number of different breeding strategies to be found within the family Agamidae, and it would be impossible to accurately describe each one here. Some general rules can be given, however. First, a healthy stock of lizards is required if captive-breeding is to be hoped for. Individuals should be young (born and raised in captivity if possible) and similar in size to each other to maximize breeding chances and minimize

AGAMIDS IN GENERAL

PHOTO OF A GROUND AGA MA. AGAMA ACULEA TA E ·

It is strongly suggested that al/ keep ers or agamid lizards make some attempt to bree d their stock, if only as a conservation eff or1. The breeding of most agamids is not that difficult , but it does require patience and attention to detail.

fighting. Normally these are very territoriallizards, so a group of only one male to two, three, or even four females is good for breeding purposes. Of course, this many animals kept in one terrarium will need a lot of space. AUention must be given to exact temperatures, humidity levels, hiding places, and the provision of both egglaying sites and basking areas suitable for the species. Second, many of the species from cooler climates will need to

be over-wintered or hibernated in order for successful fertilization to occur. Usually temperatures in the law to mid 50s are required for approximately six to eight weeks. Lighting and feeding must be lessened at the same time. Finally, a lizard that has not been wen fed cannot be expected to give satisfying breeding results. Check the section on nutritioD . a_ wen as the species accounts, t c determine the best diet poss ,­ for your particular speci.rr_e-:--~. <

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HOUSING PHOTO BY ISABELLE FRANCAlS

HOUSING

HOUSING In this chapter you will become familiar with the many environmental niches that the myriad species of agamids call home. 1'11 describe the various components needed to successfully set up a terrarium for agamids. At the end of the chapter rll discuss the four main agamid habitats-desert, savannahjgrassland, woodland, and rainforest. These individual sections will contain information on setting up an enclosure in both a basic, "bare bones" style, and a more naturalistic fashion, simulating nature as closely as possible (in the confines of a small, enclosed area, of course).

The bare-bones setup method is a way of arranging an enclosure to meet only the most basic requirements of your agamid. The naturalistic method, on the other hand, tries to duplicate the lizard's natural environment by replicating alI details of the terrain that occur where the lizard originates from. There obviously will be limits to this latter setup considering the limited amount of space and materials at one's disposal. ENClOSURES For most agamid species, use of the standard all-glass aquarium is advised; these usually are the PHOTO BY PAUL FREED.

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HOUSING PHOTO BY ISABELLE FRANCAlS

cheapest, easiest to clean, and safest. They offer viewing from alI sides and allow regulation of humidity levels. For most agamid species that grow to around 15 in/38 cm in length, the standard 30-gallon aquarium (36 x 16 x 12 in/91 x 40 x 30 cm) is perfect. Keep in mind that this size refers to the keeping of one medium-sized lizard. More than one immediately requires you to look to at least a 40-gallon aquarium (48 x 16 x 13 in/122 x 40 x 33 cm). Smaller agamids will do fine in a 20-gallon aquarium (30 x 12 x 12 in/76 x 30 x 30 cm) or smaller, depending on size and number of lizards being kept. Large lizards can be kept singly in a 40- or 45-gallon aquarium (48 x 18 x 13 in/122 x 45 x 33 cm) or might need even larger quarters depending on the individual being kept.

SUBSTRATES Which substrate you choose will depend upon whether you are going for a bare-bones setup or a naturalistic setup. Artificial Turf: An all-purpose type of substrate that is also known as indoor/ outdoor carpeting, it can be used for alI agamids. It couldn't be used in the naturalistic setup, since you generally don't see much artificial turf growing in the wild. It is safe for virtually all reptiles, can be cleaned rather easily, and presents a tidy appearance (as long as regular cleanings are maintained). It is favored by many experieneed keepers who have large stocks of animals.

Paper Towel and Newspaper: Paper substrates certainly should be mentioned. For the keeper of agamids, these materials can be cleaned up rather quickly. Even though they do make a cheap and

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easy-to-clean bottom for a cage, they are also very light in weight, which means agamids will simply tear them to pieces with their sharp little claws. They also will not remain in place for very long, but rather end up as creased and crumpled wads stuffed into one of the enclosure's corners. Pine Bedding: This type of material in the form of wood shavings, bark nuggets , bark mulch, etc., is normally used with small rodents (such as mice and hamsters). It makes a fairly cheap, clean bedding. It is light and easy to work with, and is an excellent substrate for the bare­ bones type of setup. A point to remember-cedar bedding can be toxic to herps. The oils contained in it are said to cause, among other things, respiratory problems in herptiles. Gravel: This is the substrate used by herpers and aquarists alike. Gravel is colorfuI, natural­ 100king (except for some of those wacky, commercially produced colors), relatively easy to work with, and very cost effective (because it doesn't have to be disposed of at every cleaning). Gravel can be washed, picked clean, or baked to remove wastes and impurities. It is of use in both the natural setup and the bare­ bones approach. Size 3 and 5 (mm) gravel are the easiest to come by and are the best for a lizard's health because they lack sharp edges. Sizes larger than this tend to trap wastes and insects. Sizes smaller than this can be considered sand. Sand: This substrate can be

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used for both the natural setup and the bare-bones setup. In the former it can be used in both the desert and the savannah setting. On the other hand, I think sand would look out of pIace in a woodland or rainforest habitat, but that is one person's opinion, and if you like sand with your philodendrons and bromeliads then by all means, go for it. Sand is relatively easy to c1ean and is more resistant to odors than other, more porous materials such as soil or even gravel. PHOTO COURTE SY OF OCEAN NUTRITION

Potting Soil/Orchid Bark: This is a good substrate to use in the bare-bones setup, though you will want to change it frequently. Also, both potting soil and orchid bark can be purchased cheaply. Be carefui of soil taken from your own backyard, however-you never know what might be crawling around in it. Potting soil/orchid bark can support any sort of terrestrial plant that you would want to add. It is safe for all agamids just as long as perlite is not in the mix because it has been known to cause intenstinal blockages in reptiles. Ordinary soil will, if ingested, pass through an animaI with n o damage. It will be up to you to figure out what plant species you will want to use. Once you 've figured this out, the correct type of soil mixture can be formulated. CLlMAIE CONTROL

Heating: As reptiles, agamid lizards are at the mercy of their surrounding environment. This means YOU are the one who will has to regulate the amount of warmth they receive. Fortunately, there are several ways to do this. Using heat lamps is one way. Heat lamps are either of the ceramic or incandescent type and are readily available at virtually any pet shop that stocks herpetocultural supplies. The ceramic type emits heat without producing any light. The advantage of this is that day/ night cyc1es are not affected. Such heaters also are available in several wattages , allowing you to

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Providing your agamid lizard with the eorreet photoperiod (day/night cycle) is very important. Photoperiod often affects a herptile's behavior. Bulbs designed speeifieally for the keeping of reptiles and amphibians now are available at many pet shops.

provide just the right amount of heat in your pet's enclosure. The problem with using a ceralnic­ type heat lamp is that you must then use a ceramic-style socket because your ordinary house­ Iamp socket would quickly melt from the amount of heat produced. The second type of heat lamp is the incandescent type that simply can be screwed into an ordinary household socket. Also on the market are full-spectrum incandescent bulbs, which not only can be used for heating an enclosure but also replicate the light of the sun that is essential to the survival of agamids. Besides the ceramic and incandescent heaters, there also are undertank heaters. These are very convenient in that they are placed under the enclosure itself. They cannot be used with wooden enclosures because the wood would absorb most of the heat (and there always is the chance of a fire starting) . Many models have thermostatic controls that allow

regulation of the enclosure's temperature. Undertank heaters will not heat a whole enclosure, just one spot, giving the animals a choice of either warm or cool areas. There also is the option of "heated rocks." These are molded, artificial "rocks" \\ith a heating coil placed inside. Some no\v have thermostats. They are good for creating basking sites, but they will not do a good job of raising an enclosure's overall air temperature. Finally there is the option of heating a whole room. Large collections of reptiles and amphibians would require considerable amounts of heating equipment in order to acclimate each enclosure individually. This would mean many electricaI cords lying about and high electric bills. Thus, it sometimes is cheaper to set one small room aside for heating these animals collectively. Some of the more advanced "smart" thermostats allow you to program them when you want

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higher or lower temperatures in the room. For example, you probably would want higher readings during the day and lower temperatures at night to simulate nature (and in turn increase your chances of captive breedings). Lighting: In many ways, thb subject goes hand-in-hand with heating since one way of heating a tank is by the use of incandescent bulbs. Incandescents obviously also produce light, but if the light produced is not full-spectrum (Le., it simply is of the ordinary household varie ty) , then further lighting will be needed to allow for vitamin D3 production. The other type of lighting that is available to herp keepers is fluorescent lighting. This type usually is a bit more expensive than incandescent lighting, but many different types of light are offered, from "shop" lights to black lights to full-spectrum lights. Fluorescent bulbs also tend to last longer than incandescents, and although their initial cost is higher, the final results will be more satisfying. If you are short on money and need to save where you can, then I would recommend full-spectrum incandescent lighting. This will give you both heat and light in the correct quantities (the bulbs usually are available in several sizes) . On the other hand, if money really isn't an issue, the best setup you can go with probably is a combination of fluorescents for light and either incandescent bulbs or undertank heating pads for warmth. Full-spectrum

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fluorescent lighting seems to be more effective than full-spectrum incandescent; exactly how much more effective is uncertain. What is certain is that separate light and heat sources allow freer manipulation of both. This means that if you want a lot of light but not much heat, you can have it. Conversely, if you want a lot of heat but not so much light, you can have that too. Such freedoms are important in herptile husbandry. For instance, most herps originate from areas that go through daily changes in temperature, so you should strive to duplicate this. Also, daily and seasonal changes in length of daylight (called photoperiods) are natural in a lizard's environment and thus should occur in captivity as well. ENCLOSURE DECOR

There are many different items that can be incorporated into a lizard's tank. The reason for anything going inside the tank will depend on two things-the lizard's needs and your own decorating desires. Obviously the first thing that needs to be done is for you to gain information on the species you have. Once you know about its natural surroundings, you'll be ready to duplicate those surroundings in captivity. As mentioned earlier, there are two types of setups that you can go with-bare-bones and naturalistic (and of course you can set up a tank that is a happy medium between the two). This means any of the following components can be used.

It is possible to create a naturalistic feel in an agamid 's enclosure without going to too much trouble. In this setup , for example , there is only a bedding of bark nuggets , a few rocks, and a waterbowl, yet the arrangement is attractive and seems appropriate forthe Hardun , Laudakia stel/io, living in it. Photo by Isabe~e Franeais.

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PHOTO BY ISABELLE FRANCAlS.

Hideboxes: Hideboxes are a necessary component for terrestrial agamids. They also are useful for lizards kept in groups in case fighting starts. Obviously the size of the hidebox should be such that room is available for the animals to enter, turn around, and exit with ease. In the spartan, bare-bones setup, the hidebox can be made from many things­ shoeboxes, sweaterboxes, discarded frozen food trays, heavy gauge plumbing pipe, etc. Plastic items simply can be washed and reused, whereas cardboard items need to be thrown away and replaced. Also, many pet stores now carry hideboxes of different shapes and sizes designed specificaIly for herptiles. A hidebox that looks like it belongs in a naturalistic setting is a bit more challenging to provide.

You can use any of the artificial materials previously mentioned, but such hideboxes should be hidden behind rocks or plant growth in order to retain the integrity of the terrarium's naturalistic look. On the other hand, you can use actual rocks or plants to build hiding areas. Be carefui with the former, however, because active lizards tend to dig at rockwork and can easily cause a cave to topple down, sometimes on themselves. Make sure the structure is securely constructed. Silicone glue or cement might help here. Both are safe with animals if allowed to air for a day or more. Waterbowls and Water Basins: AlI agamids need water. Desert species, such as those in the

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Security is of prime importance when keeping any herptiles. Lizards in particular rarely will turn down an opportunity to slip away, so always make sure the tops of your animals' enclosures always are on tight.

genus Uromastyx. rarely drink from a standing body of \vater, but instead get their water from the vegetation found in their habitats. In captivity, however, water should be available to the animaI at alI times. Other species, those that inhabit "wetter" environs, will drink on a regular basis, and some species, such as water dragons, will even soak in the water bodies you provide. Water should be available to alI such species of agamids at alI times. The water-Ioving species will need a container of water large enough to bathe in, whereas other species will do okay with small plastic or porce1ain bowls. The bare-bones setup can have a small plastic

bo\\"l. s\veaterbox. or rubber \\"ash basin, whereas the naturalistic setup might do beUer with stone or porcelain water containers sunk into the substrate to simulate a small pOGI. There can even be alittie waterfall leading into it. Driftwood and Branches: Wood can be used in almost any setup and will go a long way in making a terrarium look appealing and making a nervous lizard feel more "at home." Driftwood and branches are sold in pet stores and come in many sizes and shapes. You can also find your own in your backyard or a nearby wooded area (if allowed). Just make sure, if collected from an outdoor area, the wood is

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HOUSING PHOTO BY DA VID J . ZOFFE R

devoid of any Httle crawly critters. To eliminate existing critters, soak the wood in water for several days, then let it dry for a week or so. Plants: The use of live plants with agamid lizards is a bit of a risk. Although not alI agamids are vegetarians, many are and may be tempted to consume the plants you originally intended for decorative purposes. Also , some plants are toxic to agamids. Plants selected for an agamid's terraria should be sturdy, non­ toxic, and able to withstand the rigors of being jumped on constantly. Keep in mind that live plants need watering, fertilizing, and correct lighting in order to thrive. The other alternative is artificial plants. Even vegetarian species usually will not bother with them,

and they can add a splash of color to an otherwise bland arrangement. The artificial plants sold in a pet shop and designed specificaIly for use with animaIs are best. Those sold elsewhere usually are intended for decor around one's home and often have weak dyes that will run when moistened. Such dyes will make your agamids ill if consumed. TYP'ES OF CAPTIVE AGAMID

HABITATS Desert: The desert setup probably is the easiest to put together. A naturalistic approach can be very appealing to the eye. As a substrate you will need sand or fine gravel. Depending on whether or not the species involved is an active burrower, you may need to keep several inches of substrate. Rocks can be

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used to fonn outcrops in the rear of the tank or to fonn territorial boundaries, or they can be used sparsely throughout the tank strictly as decoration. Keep in ITIind that sand does not hold rockwork readily; it easily shifts, which can mean stacked rocks will tumble on each other. Be carefui. Spare pieces of driftwood can be used. Most plants don 't really seem to "look the part" in a desert setup, but if you like the look then go for it (please use desert-dwelling species only). Cacti with sharp spines are out of the question as they can quickly injure a lizard. The various types of succulents probably are your best bet (although again, vegetarian lizard species may try to eat

them, so be carefui) . Plastic plants are an option worth considering. Dry, hot conditions must be provided. These can be achieved by the use of incandescent or ceramic heaters. Depending on the species, temperatures will need to be kept anywhere frOlTI 85 to 105°F/29 to 41 C. The usual way of doing this is by setting up the heater on one side of the terrarium, so that the specified temperature is reached on the one side, while a cooler area is allowed to exist on the other. A lizard can't regulate its own body temperature internally and is at the mercy of the surrounding enVirOnlTIent. A temperature gradient il1USt be provided so the lizard can adjust its o\vn body ternperature. 0

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The bare-bones setup will stíll need the lighting/heating of the naturalistic method, but sand can be replaced by paper towels or turf, and a hidebox should be provided for each lizard kept in the terrarium. The lighting can be placed on a timer and the heating should be as weIl. Nighttime in the desert is commonly quite cool, so room temperature (70 to 78 F / 21 to 25 0 C) should be adequate for most species of desert agan1id. Grassland and Savannah: This is the area of terrain where forested areas meet open plains. It can contain sn1all trees or bushes but generally is characterized by the many species of grasses that grow there. This environment provides homes to many species of animals, including agamids. The home terrarium can be 0

made to house these grassland species quite readíly. See the section on woodland setups for tips on soil, gravel, etc. _Actual grasses may or may not be used, similar talI, thin plants can be substituted in their place, and plastic plants can be used as weIl. Lizards of the grassland areas tend to be shy, active animals that need plenty of shelter in order for them to feel at home. The plants themselves may be enough shelter, but you may want to use some rocks or branches to add to the tank. Temperatures in these grassland/ savannah areas can vary widely, depending on natural climate, because this type of habitat occurs throughout many areas of the world. Knowledge of your lizard's origin should be PHOTO BY K. H. SWITAK.

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sought in helping you to figure out exact temperature and lighting requirements. As a general rule of thumb, daytime temperature should nln approximately 78 to 88 :: F /25 to 31 C. Nighttime temperatures can run at about room temperatures, 70 to 75 0 F/21 to 24 0 C. The bare-bones version should utilize the same heat and light conditions. It can be set up similarly to the desert bare-bones terrarium, but with added shelters and some branches for climbing. Woodland: You will be able to house more species of agamids this way than any other. Actually, most species that would be optimally suited for life in a grassland, savannah, or rainforest setup can be safely housed here with some modifications. Woodlands contain many different 0

microhabitats, from the leaf litter on the ground to the many species of trees an d \ines t h at allo\\~ life fom1s t o thriye h undr ed of feet u p . Setting up a naturalistic terrarium to suit the needs of agamids in this way is easier than the rainforest setting but harder than the grassland setting. You will need to place a gravellayer about one inch thick on the bottom. This will allow drainage of the soil layer. On top of this a layer of top soil will need to be placed. About two to three inches should do it. You can now add plants or tree branches, whatever will be safe and appropriate for the species you plan to keep and pleasing to the eye. Temperatures are in the same range as grasslands (78 to 88 F / 25 to 31 °C-daytime, 70 to 75 F / 21 to 24°C-nighttime. The plant 0

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22 and animaI species that inhabit these areas are used to more humidity though. The forests tend to hold moisture and slow the winds that decrease this humidity. The bare-bones tank should be very similar to the grassland tank except for added moisture in the form of daily misting (lightly) and added climbing structures. Rainforest: The Old World rainforests of Africa and Asia are home to a bewildering array of animals , including many agamids. Some are terrestrial in habit , but most tend to be fully arboreal. What this means is . that along with the high humidity and warm temperatures they will need, ample climbing areas must be provided for the inhabitants. Arainforest terrarium can generally be set up using the same procedure as the woodland tank. The changes are as follows: l) if live plants are used, they

should be able to handie rainforest conditions; 2) more humidity should occur in the form of liberal daily mistings (followed by ample time for the terrarium to dry out, eliminating decay and odor that could build up in a constantly wet tank); 3) wanner temperatures (85 to 95 F/29 to 35°C-daytime, 70 to 78 F/21 to 25°C-nighttime); 4) light in the rainforest is filtered through many layers of vegetation, so strong lighting should be avoided. Keep in mind that many arboreal agamids are vegetalians, so plastic plants may be the way to go in such an instance. However, if insectivorous lizards are what will be living here, sturdy live plants such as ficus, bromeliads, philodendrons, and the like can be used. Tree branches and driftwood can be used. Rocks and other terrestrial shelters usually will not be frequented much by arboreal species but can be included. 0

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PHOTO BY K. H. SWITAK.

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Once properly housed, your I all times. This m eans its agamid lizard is going to ha\'e \\'aterbo\vl should be changed feeding on its mind. This means daily and thoroughly washed at that a well-planned schedule of least two or three times a week. supplying both \\Tater and food is HERBIVOROUS DIETS required. Herbivorous agamids can be This chapter \vill enlighten you found in a variety of physical to the two main types of agamids appearances and natural in reference to their diets­ herbivorous and carnivorous. The habitats. They range anywhere from the desert-dwelling information given will contain Uromastyx species (often referred pertinent material on correct feeding schedules , food types , to as the spiny-tailed agamids) to supplements, etc., in correlation the rainforest water dragons, to the type of diet in question. Physignathus. Most herbivorous One important point-whether agamids tend to be large-bodied or not the agamid you're keeping and therefore need large daily is herbivorous or carnivorous, it amounts of foodstuffs. Desert will be necessary for you to make herbivores, such as the sure the animaI has fresh water at Uromastyx species, usually get

24

NUTRITION PHOTO BY W. P. MARA

most of their water from the plants they consume. (A waterbowl stíll is advised for keeping Uromastyx, however). The woodland- and rainforest-dwelling agamid species need a more sizable water area than a simple, average-size bowl because they will not only drink from it, but bathe in it as weIl. You will find that most herbivorous agamids are willing to accept a wide variety of plant matter. This doesn't mean you should give them anything and everything, ho\\~e\·er . For example, just because your sailfin dragon will eat iceberg lettuce doesn·t mean it will do \vell on it. (Iceberg lettuce, in fact, usually isn't very good for herptiles.) Another point to remember about herbivores is that they

sometimes will accept insects or lean meat in limited quantities, technically making them omnivores. A small percentage of such foodstuffs (around 5 to l QO/o) will help round out the herbivore diet. Foods should include but not be limited to squash, broccoli, spinach, bananas, tomato, and melons. These items should be cut up into sizes that are easy for your agamids to conSUllle. All the foods previously named don't have to be offered at the same time. Three or four items per serving should be more than sufficient, and the selection can be varied each time. A vital point to remember with herbivorous agamids is that they need vitamin supplements. I recommend the use of a multivitamin formula specially

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designed for reptiles combined \ith a calciullljphosphorus órmula (with a ratio of l: l or higher on the calcium side). Sueh ;tems can be purchased at most pet stores that stock herpetocultural goods. They usually are inexpensive and come in many forms (powders, pilIs, hquids, etc.). Sometimes the nlanufacturer's directions tell you to use the formula(s) d a ily , but this usually is too much. Once every three or four days is sufficient, except in the case of pregnant mothers or newborn specimens. They can be given the supplements every other day. PHOTO COURTESY OF FLUKE R FARMS.

A lot of agamids eat crickets, and crickets are made more nutritious when maintained on a high-calcium diet. This practice is known as "gut-Ioading."

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This is the dietary category most a gamids falI into. Manyof them can be more specificaIly regarded as insectivores in the strictest sense of the word (meaning they feed wholly on insects), but most eat other "meaty" foods as well-snails, s hrÍlllp , birds, and other lizards. Carnivorous agamids take a broad assortment of insect prey, from tiny ants and spiders (which actually are arachnids, not insects) to large locusts and buUerflies. Many individual specimens will take a variety of food items , whereas others will

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26 limit themselves to only a favored few. Animals of the genera Agama and Draco are good examples of insectivores. Their diet is made up almost entirely of what a lot of people simply refer to as "bugs." These lizards are small to medium in size and are active, cUIious, and usually very terrttoIial. Due to their high activity levels, they need to feed frequently, so during the daylight hours you usually will find them scooting around their enc1osures, constantly in search of prey. Both adults and juveniles of carnivorous species need to be fed daily. Just as with the diets of herbivores, the menu items should be rotated or mixed to allow maximum nutritional gain. Some of the insects and other invertebrates that are preyed upon by agamids in the wild

NUTRITION

inc1ude ants, crickets, locusts, moths, butterflies, snails, shrimp, katydids, spiders, and worms. In captivity, these insects can be substituted by store-bought crickets, mealworms, waxworms, and then a few field-caught insects (as long as they were caught in areas void of pesticides, insecticides, etc.). Be aware, however, that some agamid species will need a specialized diet (ants or termites, for example). Such lizards can be real headaches to keep and therefore are not recommended for beginners. The main component of the captive diet of most insectivorous lizards should be crickets. The reasoning is that crickets are about the most readily available insect to the average keeper, plus cIickets are nutritionaHy superior to aH other "farm-raised" insects. PHOTO BY DAVID J . ZOFFER.

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UTRITION

27

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Another nice point about crickets is that they are easy to both "gut-load" and "dust." Looking at the first concept. the tenn "gut-Ioading" refers to the process of sustaining your crickets on various nutritious foods before they themselves are offered as food. The idea is obvious-pass on the nutrients from the cricket to the lizard. Gut­ loading (or "nutrient-Ioading" as some call it) is an effective way to give exacting parameters to an agamid's diet without having to use lots of different insects. To gut-load crickets (or any other insects for that matter) alI you really have to do is make sure their diet is high in vitamins and minerals. There are a number of specially fonnulated cricket foods on the market (again, available at many pet shops), and although such foods might cost you alittIe

more than oatmeal or bran flakes, in the end you \vill ha\'e much healthier pets (and a remarkabl~ healthy colony of crickets a s weH!). As far as \.vhat to keep the crickets in, I find that plastic food-storage containers or large plastic shoe- or sweaterboxes with holes drilled through the lids do nicely. Cardboard egg crates provide great hiding areas and can be cut to size. The second concept, "dusting," is simple enough-you sprinkle some vitaminjmineral dust on some crickets before offering them to your agamid(s). The following procedure has worked for me­ take a plastic bag (such as a sandwich bag) and add approximately a half teaspoon of vitamin powder plus one-quarter teaspoon of calciulnjphosphorus powder. Place the crickets in the bag, close it, then shake it lightly

28

so the powder will coat the insects. After only a few moments they should be ready to offer to your agamids. Insects can and should be continually gut-Ioaded for feeding, but dust them only once every two to three feedings (more often for juveniles or gravid females). Foods for insects maintained in captivity could include flaked fish food, cut fruit and vegetables, oats and com meal, and crushed dry dog food. Food should always be available for the insects, and you should try to keep the items fresh. Also, water needs to be provided for many insect species. Most keepers like to place a water-soaked sponge in a small bowl, wringing it out and "refilling" it every other day. You may find that slower­ moving or inactive camivorous

NUTRITION

agamids may not be able to track down and catch all the insects you offer them. It also is possible that the food insects will hide and never even be seen by your pets if housed in a naturalistic setting. In such cases you will have to feed your agamids in a separate enclosure or place the food items in a small bowl with high sides (this works best with insects that can't crawl out-mealworms, waxworms, etc.). The bowl can be sunk in the substrate so it won't block the available space in the terrarium, and the agamids won't have to climb over the bowl's edge and risk tipping it. For livelier insect species like crickets and grasshoppers, you'll have to pinch their legs (the jumping legs) in order to keep them in place. It sounds kind of cruel, but that's just how it goes. PHOTO BY ISABELLE FRANCAlS .

Crickets are among the most nutritious items you can give to carnivorous agamids. They can be purchased in quantity at many pet shops and are relatively inexpensive.

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SPECIES ACCOU NTS

SPECIES ACCOUNTS

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Because of the many species of agamids that occur throughout the Old World , attention to alI the species (or even genera) in this relatively short work is impossible, therefore some culling must be done. The species that are listed in this section are species that occur on a regular or semi-regular basis in the hobby or are representative of a genus that deserves attention because of the possibility that they would make interesting pets. It is inevitable that a species or two that you might have come across in the hobby is not listed here, but every attempt has been made to include all species that are important to the hobby.

MOUNTAIN DRAGON ACANTHOSAURA CRUCIGERA

Distribution: Southeastern Asia. Length: 10 to 14 in Housing: Rainforest Related Hobby Species: A. armata, A. lepidogaster.

At least these species comprise a genus that is similar in habits to the jungle varieties of Anolis. They are small insectivorous lizards that live in the dense undergrowth of bushes and vines in their native jungles. They are highly active, nervous little animals that tend to scurry for cover at the slightest disturbance. Keep these lizards in a down­ sized version of the sailfin

30

SPECIES ACCOUNTS PHOTO BY R. D. BARTLETT.

dragon-style setup. In other words, they need the same branches, water pools, and cover that the Sailfin Dragon requires, only smaller. You can comfortably house a trio in a 55­ to 70-gallon aquarium, provided there is suitable cover and no more than one male. They need a temperature range from 78 to 84 F/25 to 29 C during daytime, 70 to 74 0 F/21 to 23 0 C for nighttime. Lighting should be of the full-spectrum sort, and one or more basking spots should be provided. depending on the nUll1ber of animals kept. In nature these lizards take earthworms. g rubs. and assorted small insects. In captivity they can be easily switched over to an inse ct s -onh­ diet with no problems. ReQular dusting of the crickets, mealworms, spiders, etc., should be performed. A relatively large 0

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water dish should be provided, as these species will bathe and drink frequently. Breeding information on these species is spottY . They are egglayers that prefer amoist substrate such as peat moss or vermiculite for laying. Young are 2 to 3 inches long at hatching. BLUE-THROATED AGAMA AGAMA ATRICOLLIS

Distribution: Southern and eastern Africa Length: 10 to 12 in Housing: Woodland / Savannah Related Hobby Species: A. agama, A. planíceps. A. nupta, A. síníata It should be noted first off that

the n1any species of agamas have recen tIy been split into several genera by some scientists. This new system is not accepted by alI at this writing, so we will refer to them just as Agama.

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The Namib Rock Agama, Agama planiceps, is native to southern Africa, where it haunts rocky outcrops and boulder-strewn hills.

The Blue-throated is of the few semi-arboreal species of Agama. In their native haunts of Africa they tend to spend most of their time in the shrubs, bushes, and low-lying trees that are widely scattered over much of this savannah area. They are very territorial, and males will stake out and defend aspecific patch of bushes or perhaps a small tree. Females tend to be able to move in between male territories quite easily. If A. atricollis is not involved in territorial disputes, it invariably will be involved with the capture of food. They are constantly chasing the various medium- to large-sized insects that abound in these hot, dry conditions.

In captivity, A. atricollis adapts to either a naturalistic or a bare­ bones setup quite readily. Give thenl SOIne tree Hn1bs or other structures for climbing, along \vith the standard \vater dish, heat pads. rocks, etc. Lighting is extremely i.mportant and should take the fonn of full-spectrum bulbs with an incandescent spot light for basking. Vitamin and calcium dusting are very important in the diets of these animals and should be given on a regular basis. Foods in captivity can include crickets, king mealworms, any field-caught insects that you might capture, and pinkies. Breeding can occur in large enclosures, and this species should be given a

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35

SPECIES ACCOUNTS

l EED .

spacious environment. Males will head bob, raise the tail, and encircle the female in a courtship ritual. Several weeks after mating, the female willlay between eight and 15 eggs in a pit. Incubation \vill take about 75 days at 82 to 85 F. 0

BLOODSUCKER, VARlED LlZARD CALOTfS CALOTfS

Distribution: Southern Asia Length: 20 to 24 in Housing: Woodland, rainforest Related Hobby Species: C. cristatellus , C. mystaceus The various species of Calotes (about 30 species) represent a group of medium-sized, opportunistic lizards that feed on many sorts of insects, arthropods, and other lizards. Certain species are specialized feeders, such as C. ve rsicolor, which feeds mainlyon ants. Calotes are reminiscent of

the Cuban Knight Anole (Anolis equestris) , with sünilar feeding and habitat requirem ents and the ability to change color. In fact, the species of Calotes have a strongly developed ability to do this, falling short of only the chameleons in this respect. The color changing is based on excitement levels and not strictly camouflage , with reds , blues , greens, oranges , and blacks all making their way into the color schemes of the various species. The arboreal nature and high humidity requirements of these species would indicate a rainforest or woodland type of captive setup. Temperatures need to be in the middIe to high 80s F, with only slight drops in this range for nighttime. A basking area of about 95 F should be maintained , and full-spectrul11 lighting should be emploved. Diet 0

SPECIES ACCOUNTS

can include crickets , king mealwonns, pinkies, and small lizards. Vitamin and calcium supplements should be provided. A large terrarium should be provided for this lizard. If more than one if kept, accommodations will need to be accordingly more spacious. Keep only one male per enclosure. Strong branches and hiding spots (in the fonn of plants or hideboxes) should be provided. This species has been bred in captivity, with relatively large egg clutches (14 to 20 eggs) being laid. Approximately 60 days incubation time seems average. FRILLED DRAGON CHLAMYDOSAURUS KINGI

Distribution: Northern coastal Australia, southern coastal New Guinea Length: 24 to 36 in Housing: Woodland

37

One of the m os t bizarre of alI lizards, the Frilled possesses a fold of s k. ~lén encircles the neck. \Yh e~ in a defensive or territorial m aori . . capable of extending t his fold (which can exceed 12 inch es in diameter) by use of well-developed hyoid bones . Although most photographs depict this species on the ground, it actually is mostly arboreal. It inhabits medium and large trees in open woodlands of tropical Australia and southern New Guinea. Its natural prey includes smaller lizards along with many terrestrial invertebrates such as spiders, large insects, and the like. You will notice one thing about this species in captivity: there aren't many. Actually they are imported infrequently a t best from western N e\v Guinea a s the\' are protected in their n ati\"e Australia. PHOTO BY K. H. SWI TAK

SPECIES ACCOUNTS

38

PHOTO BY K. H. SWITAK

When imported they demand a high price tag-one that most hobbyists can't afford. In captivity this species will do well in a spacious terrarium or cage, decorated with a few well­ supported branches. Daytime temperatures should be in the 85 to 90 F range, with a hot spot of about 100° F. At night the temperature can safely drop to 70 to 75 F. The diet should include large insects and pinkies, and some fruits will be taken. Foods should be nutrient loaded and dusted as explained in the nutrition chapter. 0

0

FLYING DRAGON DRACO MA CULA TUS

Distribution: India to southeastern Asia Length: 7 to 14 in Housing: Rainforest Related Hobby Species: D. jimbriatus, D. lineatus

These fascinating lizards are what Linnaeus thought to be the babies of the mythological Oriental dragons. Obviously just a bit off base, these lizards are now known to grow to no more than a foot or so long. Even though they don't actually make it to "giant" in size, they do possess a unique gift shared only with the flying geckos among liz ards-the gift of gliding (not actually active flight). The Flying Dragon possesses a fold of skin on the side that covers several of the ribs, allowing the lizard to extend its "wings." It normally will keep the wings folded against the body except for soaring and territorial displays. It also possesses three dewlaps, one on either side of the chin and one on the midline of the throat. The central dewlap often is seen being extended for territorial displays, along with the wings and use of head bobbing. They are brown to

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gray in body coloring, with the wings containing spots and streaks of any one of several colors, from red to yeHow to blue. These species are found in the " foliage of talI trees of the Asian rainforests, where they hunt mainly for ants, plus smalIer spiders and insects. These lizards are rather delicate in captivity. Terraria for these species should provide ample branches and hiding spots. They need exacting temperature and diet regimens in order to survive. They need temperatures of 84 to 88 0 F during the daytime and 72 to 76 0 F for nighttime. Diet should consist of small crickets, white (freshly shed) mealworms, fruitflies, and any smalI field­ caught insects that you might

II

come across. These should be vitaminjcalcium dusted regularly. Ants are impractical to use, and therein might lie the problem in keeping these animals for the long-tem1. A smalI dish of water should be provided, along with daily n1Lstings. TREE DRAGON GONOCEPHALUS GRANDIS

Distribution: Southwestern Asia through Indonesia to and Australia Length: 12 to 25 in Housing: Rainforest Related Hobby Species: G. abbotti

The approximately 15 species of the genus Gonocephalus resemble several of the New World iguanids in both habits and physical

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SPECIES ACCOUNTS

appearance. For example, G. grandis bears astriking similarity to the basilisks (Basiliscus). Most

species of tree dragon tend to inhabit the higher elevations of trees in dense forests. Some occasionally can be spotted at lower elevations but not normally. Depending on the species and size of the individual lizard these animals feed on insects , spiders, and any other invertebrates that inhabit the rainforests. Most are relatively slow-moving lizards that tend to stalk, rather than pounce on, their prey. Only when eiuding predators do they show any signs of speed. SAILFIN DRAGON HYDROSAURUS AMBOINENSIS

Distribution: Indonesia, New Guinea

Length: 36 to 48 in Housing: Rainforest Related Hobby Species: H . pustulosus

The first thing you will notice about an adult Sailfin Dragon is the size. Males can reach 4 feet in length, female s about 3 feet. The next thing you are probably quick to notice is its resemblance to the New World basilisks. They both share very similar niches-similar diets, habitats , and behavior. The Sailfin Dragon is the largest of the agamid lizards. It is believed that the elaborate frills and crests that run along its dorsal ridge are for both territorial displays and for swimming (the crests supposedly act like rudders in the swiftly flowing waters that it frequents). In captivity, very spacious housing is required , either in the PH OTO BY R. D. BAP-

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SPECIES ACCOUNTS

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fonn of an extremely large aquarium (100 gallons or more) or a home-built cage at least 6 feet long by 3 feet high and wide. They are very active lizards and will need both a large pool to bathe in and several sturdy branches to bask upon. They will need basking areas of 90 to 95 F, with the rest of the cage about 80 to 85 F during daytime. Nighttime temperatures should run about 70 to 75 F. They are truly omnivorous in their diet. In nature , th ey tak e fish, crabs, moHusks. ins ects. leaves, flowers, and frui ts. In captivity, they will take a diet of romaine lettuce, spinach, m elons, bananas, squash, etc. , along with crickets, mealworms, and/or pieces of cut fish or chicken. Supplementation with vitamins and calcium is mandatory. The Sailfin Dragon's breeding history 0

0

0

in captivity is poor at best, but it is possible to breed them using large enclosures and proper diets. BUTTERFLY AGAMID

LE/OLEP/S BELL/ANA

Distribution: southern China to Sumatra Len gth: 18 to 20 in Housing: Savannah/woodland This is a genus of agamids with abou t five species spread out over nluch of southern Asia. There they inhabit the dry scrublands or open forests that are scattered over the region. Leiolepis are ground-dwellers that tend to dig deep, elaborate burrows. They are active hunters and take alI kinds of arthropods, smalllizards, and the like. In captivity, they can be given a savannah or woodland environment. Use of the naturalistic methods of

For the most part, Butterfly Agamids are carnivores , taking everything from mealworms and crickets to baby mice , but they also are slightly herbivorous as weil. Because of this, a keeper should ofter them as many different items as possible. A varied diet, after ali, is one key to good herptile husbandry . Photo by Paul Freed .

SPECIES ACCOUNTS

Iandscaping the living space is most suitable. A deep substrate of sand or fine gravel should b e u s ed to satisfy this lizard's need for digging. Daytime temperat ures or 88 to 95 0 F are sugges ted. dropping at nigh t t o ab ou t 78 :: r . Crickets, pinkies. kin g mealworms , and any field- cau gh insects are fine. They will take some plant matter as well . Include a large drinking bowl for these lizards. LYRE-HEADED AGAMID LYRIOCfPHALUS SCUTATUS

Distribution: Sri Lanka Length: 12 to 16 in Housing: Woodland Yet another "oddball" among the agamids, L. scutatus is an ornately decorated, slow-moving

47

l predator of cool rainforests. The Lyre -headed Agamid has a la t e rally compressed body with llany k eeled scales running a )o n g the dorsal ridge as well as t he \-e n tra l ridge of the tail. Cresr s a r e pre sent in both sexes b u [ ar e es peci a lly high in rn a les . Thi s s p e cies possesses a slro n g c010 r -c ha n g ing ability. It com es fro Ill th e coole r mountains of Sri Lanka . \\Th ere it inhabits the grouneL t ree trunks , and lower branches of the dense undergrowth. Normally slow movers, they rely more on camouflage than speed to deter predators. They eat mainIy arthropods, have a fondness for earthworms, and usually will take some pIant matter as well. PHOTO BY W . WUSTER.

48

SPECIES ACCOUNTS PHOTO BY PAUL FREED.

One of the stranger-Iooking agamids , the Lyre­ headed Agamid, Lyriocephalus scutatus, is found only in the mountains of Sri Lanka. It has something of a cult following in the herpetocultural hobby and probably would be more popular if it was available more often.

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SPECIES ACCOU NTS

49

that ad om the head, back, tail, and legs of this creature make it a I l ou g h Ineal for any predator. If \ -O U are familiar with the horned lizards (Phrynosoma) of North America, the Moloch is very similar in terms of diet, habitat, and appearance except for the fact that the Moloch possesses an even more expansive arsenal of defensive weapons (spines) . The Moloch is native to the savannahs and deserts of southern, western, and central Australia. It is specialized to MOLOCH, THORNY DEVlt feed on ants and termites , MOLOCH HORRIDUS though it does take a small Distribution: Australia percentage of other insects and Length: S to 9 in invertebrates. Housing: Desert This species rarely is found in An unbelievable lizard, the captivity and cannot be exported Moloch looks like a piece of bark from Australia. It needs a from a thom tree until you see it standard desert setup, with a move! The many spiny projections fairly deep substrate (4 to 6

Keep this species one per cage unless the cage is very roomy. Like chameleons, this species doesn't move fast, but it seems to be very tenitorial. Room temperature (75 to 7S-= F) is adequate, with a basking light and a high humidity. A \vater di sh should be provided. Foods can include crickets, mealworms. earthworms, and possibly some chopped, fresh fruit. Use vitamin and calcium supplements for this species regularly.

50

SPECIES ACCOUNTS PHOTO BY KEN LUCAS.

inches). It should be given full­ spectrum lighting and a hot spot " that is about 95 F. Other areas of the terrarium should be 85 to 90 0 F. Night temperatures should drop to 70 to 75 F. Pinhead crickets, newly molted mealworms, and fruitflies can be used as a diet, but it seems this species does not thrive without the ants and termites found in its native haunts. A small water bowl should be provided though it probably will not be used. 0

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TOAD-HEADED AGAMID PHRYNOCfPHALUS MA CULA TUS Distribution: Asia from China to Arabia Length: 5 to 12 in

Housing: Desertj savannah Related Hobby Species: P. mystaceus The approximately 40 or so species of toad-headed agamids occur throughout the continent of Asia, inhabiting mainly dry, desolate regions of open savannahs , deserts, or mountains. In fact, one species, P. theobaldi, occurs above 5,000 meters, the highest recorded elevation for any reptile. This group excels at living in what would be called "wastelands" by some due to the constant extremes in tellJ.perature, available habitat, etc., of the areas. They are dorso-ventrally flattened, looking like horned

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SPECIES ACCOUNTS PHOTO BY R. D. BARTLETT.

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lizards (Phrynosoma) without all of the homs and with a relatively long tail. They possess nostrils and eyelids designed for the wind­ swept desert climates. ln fact. many of the toad -headed agamids are very similar to the homed lizards in many aspects from habitat to diet. Phrynocephalus species are predators on ants and other small arthropods. They are ground -dwelling, diurnal lizards that inhabit both sandy and rocky environments (depending on species). They are very territorial, and males guard their patch of rocks or sand fiercely, especially during the breeding season. Most of the species are egglayers, although some-especially mountain species-do give live birth (ovoviviparous) .

Your standard desert-type terrarium can be used successfully with all but the mountain species of Phrynocephalus. Bare-bones or naturalistic setups can be used. Da~rtime temperatures of 90 to 95(; F. \\ith nighttime temperatures about 70 =F. should be fine. Mountain species should be hibemated for six to eight weeks during win ter at 50 0 F. These species can be fed small crickets, mealworms. and the like. Vitamin and calcium dusting is necessary for long-term success. Water dishes are unnecessary, as the lizards usually will not drink from these. Instead spray the interior of the cage once every day or two. Make sure to allow time for all water to evaporate (hint-spray in the moming and allow the heat

SPECIES ACCOUNTS

53 PH OTO BY MIC HAEL GILR OY.

One of the most popu lar lizard pets in the world , the Gree n Water Dragon . Physign­ athus cocincinus, do es fa irly we il in captivity although large specime ns need a lot of living space . The specimen shown here is only a month old , which is an idea I age at which to obtain them .

54

SPECIES ACCOUNTS PHOTO BY R. D. BARTLETT

from the lighting to dry out the terrarium) . Full-spectrum lighting, along with a basking light, should be provided. These species should be kept by advanced hobbyists only . as they don't settle down t o captive conditions weIl u n less exacting parameters are met. GREEN WATER DRAGON PHYSIGNATHUS COCINCINUS

Distribution: Southeastern Asian mainland and Indo­ Australian archipelago Length: 36 to 40 in Housing: Rainforest Related Hobby Species: P. lesueuri

An amazing example of convergent evolution, this species shows a remarkable similarity to its very distantly related cousin, the Green Iguana. From its

habitat and its diet to its physical appearance, the species would appear to be very closely related indeed, but the similarity is due to the lizards occupying similar niches available in different geographic areas of the world. This aganlid frequents trees and \ines that gro\V close to water. It is a good S\\inln1er and often will jump into the \\-ater to evade predator s . It feeds on many types of plant and anin1al matter. Frogs, arthropods. birds , and lizards, along \vi th sonle fruits and leafy vegetation. round out its diet. Water dragons can be kept similarly to Green Iguanas. They need spacious accommodations with a large water basin for drinking and soaking and several sturdy branches for basking. Air temperatures should range from 78 to 84 F, with a hot spot about 0

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SPECIES ACCOUNTS PHOTO BY W. WUSTER.

90 F. Night temperatures can be safely dropped to 70 F. The diet should consist of crickets, king mealworms, pinkies, various fruits (such as melons, tomatoes, and bananas), and spinach or romaine lettuce. These items can be rotated and substituted regularly. Vitamin and calcium dusting is mandatory, along with full-spectrum lighting. This species, if bought when young (wild-caught adults tend to tame poorly), can be tamed just like an iguana and, although not affectionate, can make an excellent pet. 0

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INlAND BEARDED DRAGON POGONA VITTICEPS

Distribution: Australia Length: 8-24 in

Housing: Woodland / savannah Related Hobby Species: P. barbatus, P. minimus. The genus Pogona (previously part of Amphibolurus) is made up of about seven species. They are a popular and entertaining group, because of both their "cute" appearance and their animated behavior. As its name says, this species is a native of the iniand portions of eastern Australia. It inhabits mainly open woodlands along with the arid, grassy areas of central Australia. These lizards are true omnivores in that they will take leaves, fruits, and flowers just as readily as insects, spiders, and pinkies. Feed young bearded dragons four or five times per week, adults two to three times.

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BS

59

SPECIES ACCOUNTS

Mix the given choices regularly, and be sure to use a vitamin/ calcium dusting. In captivity they will thrive in a spacious terrarium with one male to one or more females. They can be very territorial, so make sure that your terrarium can accommodate easily the number of animals that you have. Temperatures should be 78 to 84 0 F during the day; at night 75 0 F is fine. A basking site or two (depending on the number of animals kept per enclosure) should be at about 100°F. Full spectrum lighting should be provided as weIl. These lizards adjust very weIl to captive life if provided with the basics and are becoming very popular to herp keepers.

EGYPTIAN MASTIGURE OR SPINY­ TAILED AGAMA UROMASTYX AfG YP TIUS Distribution: Northeastern Africa; Egypt Length: up to 18 in Housing: Desert Related Hobby Species: U. acanthinurus, ocellatus U. omatus

The agamids of the genus Uromastyx have received

considerable attention over the years d ue to their odd appearance and behavior. They are quite similar the American Chuckwalla in that they are dorso-ventrally flattened, inhabit rocky desert areas, eat similar diets, and are quite fond of digging. These diurnal species are specialized for desert living. They rarely need to PHOTO OF UROMAST YX AEG YPT/CUS BY DAVID J. ZOF FER .

Lizards of the genus Uromastyx(often referred to as the spiny-tailed agamids) suddenly have become very popular with hobbyists. Judging by the beautifui specimen shown here, a Uromastyx acanthinurus, it's not hard to figure out why. Aside from being visually appealing , most specimens also have mild tempers and healthy appetites. Photo by Aaron Norman.

62

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drink water, getting most of their water from the vegetation that they eat. They also have an unusual system of water reabsorption that allows them to absorb excess water from their excrement and urine, along with using the water produced through oxidation of fat stored in the tail, to produce a superior way of surviving the often severe desert conditions that exist where this animallives. U. aegyptius is an excellen t digger and will construct t unnels several feet long. They use these tunnels as permanent dwellings except during the brief mating season, when the male and female will share the same burrow. They do their basking and foraging in

the immediate vicinity of the

burrow opening and become

extremely skittish when any

distance from the burrow.

SPECIES ACCOUNTS

To keep these lizards in captivity you will need a large enclosure with a deep substrate. One animaI will need a 70- to 90­ ga llon aquarium (48 to 72 inches long x 18 to 24 inches deep x 24 inches high) or a cage with similar dirr1 ensions. A deep substrate in the forn1 of 6 to 9 inches of sand \\ill be needed to satisfy this lizarcl"s need to dig. Desert condi tions should prevail, with ='\0 hun1idin" aHov/ed to settle in the cage. Full-spectrum lighting and incandescent spot lights should k eep th e daytime temperatures at 90 to 95 0 F, while nighttime temperatures can be safely dropped to 70 to 75 0 F. Foods should include leafy plants (romaine and spinach) , along with fruits and even some flowers. Vitamins and calcium should be used regularly. Juveniles will take crickets and mealworms (use PHOTO OF U OCELL A TUS BY R. D. BARTLETT

SPECIES ACCOUNTS

63 PHOT O OF AN ORNATE SPINY-TAllED AGAMID , UROMASTYX ORNATA , BY PAUL FREED .

infrequently), along with the usual vegetation. This species has only recently been bred in captivity. Breeding normally takes

ABOUTTHE

AUTHOR-

I

Dave Zoffer's interest in herptil es be gan at th e age of 12 when he obtain ed a p air of Gr ee n Anol es, Ano/is ca ro/inensi s. Sinc e then , h e has expanded into snakes, turtles, frogs and toads, salamanders, and fishe s. He currently is writing another aga mid book for TFH, this one specifically on beard ed dragons, and also is the Editor-in-Chi ef of TFH's Repti/e Hobb yist ma gazin e. PHOTO BY W. P. MARA.

place in March to April, with egg­ laying taking place from April to May. Incubation takes anywhere from 80 to 100 days.

64

SPECIES ACCOUNTS

SUGGESTED READING

RE-13?

RE-140

RE-142

RE-116

[INDEX

RE-133 AGAMID LIZARDS

Page numbers in boldface refer to illustrations.

Abbott's Forest Dragon, 42

Acanthosaura armata, 30

Acanthosaura crucígera, 29-30, 29, 31

Acquiring specimens, 2-4

Agama acu/eata, 6-7

Agama agama, 32

Agama atricollis, 30-35, 32

Agama nupta fusca, 33

Agama planiceps, 34

Agama sp., 4

Armored Pricklenape, 30

Artificial turf, 10

Backd rop, 18

Bloodsucker, 35-37, 36

Blue-throated Agama. 30-35 . 32

Branches, for climbing, 16. 17- 18

Breeding, 6-7

Butterfly Agamid, 45-47 , 45 . 46. 47

Ca/otes ca/otes, 35-37, 36

Ca/otes versicolor, 35

Ch/amydosaurus kingi. 9 . 37- 38 , 37 , 38

Climate control, 12-1 4

Common Agama, 32

Crickets, 27, 28

Decor, for enclosu re, 14- 18

Desert habitat, 18-20

Diet, of carnivores, 25-28

Diet, of herbivores , 23-25

Draco macu/atus, 38-40 , 39, 40

Driftwood, 17-18

Dysecdysis, 5

Eastern Water Dragon. 55

Egglaying, 6-7, 8

Egyptian Mastigure. 59--63. 59

Egyptian Spiny-ta iled Ag am a. 59--63, 59

Enclosures, 9-10

Feeding, 23, 28

Flying Dragon, 38-40 . 39 . 40

Frilled Dragon, 9, 37-38 , 37. 38

Gonocephalus abbotti. 42

Gonocephalus gran dis, 40-43, 41

Gonocephalus robinsoni, 41

Grassland habitat, 20-21

Gravel, 11

Green Wate r Dragon . 53 . 54-56, 54, 56

Ground Agama, 6-7

Habitats, diffe rent types for agamids, 18­ 22 Hardun, 15

Health problems, 4-6

Heating, 12-14

Hideboxes, 16

Housing, temporary, 17

Hydrosaurus amboinensis, 43-45

Hydrosaurus pustulosus, 44

Iniand Bearded Dragon, 3, 56-59, 57,58

"King" mealworms, 26

Laudakia stellio, 15

Leio/epis belliana, 45-47, 45, 46, 47

Lighting, 14

Lyre-headed Agamid, 47-49, 48,49

Lyriocepha/us scutatus, 47-49, 48,49

Moloch, 49-50, 50

M%ch horridus, 49-50, 50

Mountain Dragon, 29-30, 29, 31

Mountain savannah habitat, 20

Namib Rock Agama, 34

Natural history, general information, 1-2

Newspaper, 10-11

Nutritional problems, 5

Orchid bark, 12

Ornate Spiny-tailed Agama, 24

Ornate Spiny-tailed Agamid, 63

Paper towels, 10-11

Parasites, 4--6

Philippine Sailfin Dragon, 44

Phrynocepha/us macu/atus, 50-54, 51,

52

Phrynocepha/us mystaceus, 51

Physignathus cocincínus, 53, 54-56, 54,

56

Physignathus /esueuri, 55

Pine bedding, 11

Plants, 18

Pogona vitticeps, 3, 56-59, 57, 58

Potting soil, 12

Rainforest, 22

Riverine habitat, 22

Robinson's Forest Dragon, 41

Rocky scrubland hab itat, 19

Sailfin Dragon, 43-45

Sand, 11-12

Savannah habitat, 20-21

Skull, of agamid lizard, 1

Substrates, 10-12

Tapeworm, developing, 5

Thorny Devil, 49-50, 50

Toad-headed Agamid, 50-54, 51, 52

Tree Dragon, 40-43, 41

Uromastyx acanthinurus, 60-61

Uromastyx aegypticus, 59--63, 59

Uromastyx ocellatus, 62

Uromastyx ornata, 24, 63

Variable Agama, 35

Waterbowl, 16-17, 16

Woodland habitat, 21-22

Zoffer, David J. (author), 63, 63

Zophobas a tra tus, 26

CARE & HANDLING

PHOTOS IN THIS BOOK COATED

WITH FOTO-GLAZpM, U.S. PATENT

NO. 5,249,828.

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Everything an agamid-lizard enthusiast would ever need to know can be found within the pages of this colorfui book. There are sections on feeding, breeding, housing, plus plenty of species accounts covering some of the most popular agamids in the world. This is one book no lizard-Iover can do without. ISBN 0-7938-0283-0 1"111111111111111

Completely

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T.F.H. Publications, Inc . 1 TFH Plaza Neptune , NJ 07753 9 11 780793"802838

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